Travels Through North America Part 1

Travels Through North America.

by Berhard Saxe-Weimar Eisenach.

PREFACE.

The following journal was by no means originally designed for publication. I wrote it during my travels, partly to recall past incidents at a future period, partly to give, with more ease and certainty, information to my much-honoured parents, my relatives, and friends, on any subject, upon which inquiry might be made. After my return, the book was read by several, for whose perusal it had not been altogether intended. Many judicious persons imagined that it would be of interest to a larger number of readers, and variously and repeatedly requested its publication, in order to give it a more extensive circulation. As I could not easily withstand these solicitations, and besides met with an experienced and worthy person, Counsellor Luden, to whom, as editor, I might without hesitation entrust the whole ma.n.u.script, I yielded; whether with propriety or not, I cannot tell.

As to the voyage itself, I have nothing to say, either with regard to its cause or design. The idea of visiting America, occupied me, almost from my earliest years. Why this idea arose, or why it continued in my mind, is not a matter of much moment. The chief reason was, I wished to see the new world; the country; the people; their conditions and inst.i.tutions; their customs and manners. The more I became acquainted with the old world, the more my desire to see the new increased.

The state and relations of the European countries, however, and the duties by which I deem myself bound, as a military man, to the country, to which I had dedicated my services, precluded the hope of an early accomplishment of my design. Still I made the necessary preparations as far as my situation and circ.u.mstances allowed, so that the voyage might not be made at a future time without some advantage. At last Europe appeared to have attained a degree of tranquillity which would permit an absence of a year or eighteen months, without a fear on my part that I should fail in any of my engagements. His majesty, the King of the Netherlands, whom I have the honour to serve, not only allowed me the requisite time, but also granted me a pa.s.sage in the Pallas, a royal sloop of war, commanded by Captain-Lieutenant Ryk, a gallant, highly-esteemed, and experienced seaman.

Under which order of travellers I am to be ranked, according to poor Yorick's cla.s.sification, is submitted to the decision of the kind reader.

BERNHARD, _Duke of Saxe-Weimar_.

Ghent, May 20, 1827.

TRAVELS, &c.

CHAPTER I.

_Departure from Ghent.-- Sojourn at h.e.l.levoetsluis.-- Arrival at Spithead._

On the 4th of April, 1825, I set out from Ghent for Antwerp. This ancient and n.o.ble city is in every point of view interesting; to the admirers of the fine arts, on account of the unique treasures she possesses; to the military observer for her long defence against the army of the Duke of Parma, and for her military and maritime importance obtained in modern times through him who long guided the destiny of Europe; and to the philanthropist, who derives satisfaction from the increasing prosperity of mankind, for numerous reasons. Long the victim of politics and the jealousy of her neighbours, which kept the mighty Scheld, the harbour of Antwerp, blockaded, she now powerfully lifts her head above her rivals, and her commerce, nearly as flourishing as under the Hanseatic league, is annually becoming more extensive, thanks to the foresight of the wise prince whom Providence has placed at the head of our country's government.

A government yacht received us at Antwerp, and with a fair wind and most delightful spring weather, conveyed us, by the evening of the 6th of April, to the road of h.e.l.levoetsluis, where the corvette Pallas was lying at anchor, which had orders to sail on the following day. The first part of the voyage to h.e.l.levoetsluis is down the Scheld; the beautiful steeple of the cathedral of Antwerp long remains in sight; the forts on both sh.o.r.es attract the attention of military men, and perhaps remind them of the remains of the great bridge between forts St. Mary and St. Philip, by which Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma, crossed the stream and forced the city to surrender.

At an hour's sail below Antwerp, the Scheld forms a large basin, and divides into two arms the East and West Scheld, which are separated by the island of _Zuid-Beveland_. The West Scheld is the deepest, and flows into the North Sea: we sailed on the eastern branch to the place of our destination.

A century ago South Beveland was well cultivated, and contained a town and numerous villages: it was swallowed up by the water, and still remains overflowed. It may be reserved for the creative spirit peculiar to our existing government and its ill.u.s.trious chief, to give employment to the plough of the industrious farmer on the spot where at present the poor fisherman protracts a wretched existence.

We afterwards left the East Scheld, and sailed past several well cultivated islands, protected against the violence of the stormy waves by artificial dams. We entered upon the stream formed by the confluence of the Maas and Rhine, and advanced immediately to h.e.l.levoetsluis, whence in former times the victorious fleets of Holland frequently sailed to the remotest parts of the world, and dictated terms to her enemies. The ships which convey the treasures of the tropical regions to the rich city of Rotterdam, or carry the products of our own industry, as well as the defenders of our extensive possessions, are often obliged, by contrary winds, to remain here for various periods. Hence h.e.l.levoetsluis is generally very lively.

The corvette _Pallas_, in which our government permitted me to sail for America, was a new vessel, fitted out as an instruction ship.

A selection of young naval officers was made for this voyage, as midshipmen. To these were added a young naval architect named TROMP, a worthy descendant of historically renowned ancestors, whose deep knowledge, distinguished talents, and estimable character, I became acquainted with and cherished in the course of the voyage. These selected officers were entrusted to the direction of Captain _Ryk_, one of our most approved commanders,[I-1] who had orders to visit some of the princ.i.p.al English and American naval depots, in order to acquire whatever knowledge might best promote the interests of his country. On this account the corvette was fitted out rather as a packet ship than a man of war. She had no long guns on deck, except two long sixes in the bows as chase guns; her battery consisted of eighteen twenty-four pound carronades. I was established in the captain's cabin, and a swinging cot was suspended at night for my sleeping place.

[Footnote I-1: For the benefit of my readers who are not military, I subjoin the names of offices in our navy, and their correspondence in rank with army offices:--

Admiral is equal to General.

Vice-admiral " " Lieutenant-general.

Rear-admiral " " Major-general.

Captain " " Colonel.

Captain-lieutenant " " Lieutenant-colonel.

Lieutenant of the first cla.s.s " " Captain.

Lieutenant of the second cla.s.s " " First lieutenant.]

In consequence of contrary winds and other causes which it is needless to mention, the corvette could not sail as quickly as ordered. In the mean time I stayed at h.e.l.levoetsluis, and employed my forced leisure in examining this small town and its vicinity.

h.e.l.levoetsluis contains upwards of two thousand inhabitants, among whom there is scarcely a poor one to be found. The town properly consists of but one street, on both sides of the harbour, having walled quays, and united by a double drawbridge, built two years ago. Where the town terminates, the dock-yard commences, which contains most of the fortifications. Near the dock-yard are the barracks, which can, if necessary, contain two thousand men. The frigate Rhine lay in harbour as guard-ship. There was one ship repairing in the dock, none building. For the purpose of repairing there is, behind the basin of the dock-yard, a dry, terrace-shaped, walled basin, or _dry dock_, large enough for a ship. When the ship is brought into this dock, the gates are closed, and the water pumped out by a steam machine of thirty horse-power. This being done, the ship is dry, and may be examined on all sides. When the repairs are completed, the gates are again opened, the water admitted, and the ship floated out. A _boat-gate_ is better adapted to this purpose: a boat-gate consists of a box which exactly enters the ca.n.a.l leading to the dry dock: when brought to the place where it is to be used, a quant.i.ty of water is admitted sufficient to sink it to the level of the sh.o.r.es, and then it forms a bridge. When it is necessary to open the gate, the water is pumped out, and the box is withdrawn from the ca.n.a.l. The frigate _Kenau Ha.s.selaar_ was in the basin getting ready for sea, and with the crew of the guard-ship under command of Captain Dibbetz, she was to sail for the East Indies. The frigates _Scheld_, _Maas_, _Yssel_, and _Java_, with the brig _Havic_, and about twenty gun-boats, were laid up in ordinary. One of the gun-boats was built after a _Danish_ model, which allows the upper part of the rudder to be taken down and two ports to be opened, by which the stern can be used in battery. The magazines and smithies are not large, but are kept in very neat order.

The admiralty have a very large building here which is used as the residence of the marine commander in chief. From a belvidere of this house there is a fine view of the harbour and surrounding country. In the former, the frigate _Amstel_, corvette _Pallas_, brig _De Gier_, and transport-ship _Zeemeeuw_ rode at anchor, the two latter bound to the Mediterranean. In the dock-yard we remarked a very large mast-crane, which may be seen far at sea, and serves mariners as a landmark. There is also a light-house upon one of the two dams which secure the harbour, also built two years ago.

[From the 11th to the 25th of April, contrary winds detained the corvette at h.e.l.levoetsluis, during which time an excursion was made to _Goedereede_, _Stellendam_, &c. After various changes of winds, and a storm while lying at anchor, nothing of interest occurred until four P. M. of the 25th, when the ship weighed anchor and stood out to sea.]

Fair wind and good weather continued until the forenoon of the 27th.

About four o'clock we saw the English coast, being the North Foreland, not far from Margate. Here we were obliged to steer to the left to enter the Channel, in order to reach Portsmouth and avoid the dangerous _Goodwin Sands_. At the same time the barometer had fallen, the air was thick and rainy, and a disagreeable south-west wind began to blow. The pa.s.sage between these sand-banks was by no means pleasant; the wind was quite boisterous and almost stormy; we lost all hope of reaching the Channel during this day, and were forced to be content with beating about in our perilous situation. The motion of the ship became very vehement towards evening, and I became sea-sick; it was not so bad while I remained motionless in my cot. During the night the ship was in a very dangerous situation, and Captain _Ryk_ remained all the time on deck.

The lead was regularly thrown during the night. In attempting to get into my cot, which was very much inclined, and the ship giving a heavy lurch at the same time, I received a heavy fall on my head, which, however, was not productive of much injury. On the morning of the 28th the wind was somewhat lighter, and we discovered that during the night we had been in a situation of extreme danger, and had reason to be thankful to the great Creator for our safety. The weather gradually cleared up, and we enjoyed with great satisfaction the n.o.ble prospect of the English coast. Immediately ahead lay Margate with the southern sh.o.r.e of the Thames; farther to the left, Ramsgate, and still farther, Deal.

We were moreover surrounded by shipping, and in the Downs we saw the English ship of the line, Ramilies, which cruised this year on this station, lying at anchor.

The wind was now westerly, and our commander having no wish to pa.s.s another night as dangerously as the preceding, resolved to cast anchor in the Downs. This determination led me to think of landing at Deal, going to London for a day, and then returning to Portsmouth. In the course of the day, however, an east wind sprung up, which changed all our resolutions. We pa.s.sed the cape of South Foreland, and entered the Channel prosperously, where we saw the high chalk rock between Deal and Dover, with several castles, and Dover itself, with its ancient and strong castle, near the ruins, &c. We were also delighted with a beautiful view of the French coast, the white rocks of which were illumined by the sun. The wind, as we pa.s.sed by Dover, was very light, the current was against us, and during the night it rained and blew. The anchor was consequently dropped, and we remained off Dover till one o'clock the following day. In the mean time the weather improved, though the wind continued to be very slight and unfavourable. I embraced this opportunity to visit Dover, in company with Captain _Ryk_, his nephew, and Mr. Tromp. We breakfasted at Wright's hotel, in which, eighteen months before I had stayed with my family, and at that time took a walk to the fortified camp, that lies westwardly from the town, on an important height. To this place we ascended by stairs cut about twenty years ago. A subterranean pa.s.sage leads from the town to the foot of these stairs. For a supply of water a well was dug through the rock to the depth of about two hundred feet, and to this well three stairs were cut of two hundred and sixty-eight steps each. These stairways are wide enough to allow two men to walk conveniently abreast. They terminate in a funnel-shaped excavation, whence a stone staircase leads towards four terrace-shaped barracks, built one above the other. Somewhat higher is a pentagonal redoubt, also employed as a barrack, in which at this time a detachment of artillery, the only garrison of Dover was quartered. The redoubt forms the right wing of the position. From this point an irregular line of masonry, partly hewed out of the rock, runs to the left wing, where there is an oblong quadrangular fort. In front of this fort is a tolerably deep valley, through which the London road pa.s.ses.

We were delighted with the view of this beautiful vale and the fresh green of the turf. Messrs. Tromp and Ryk made a sketch of the rocks and mountains, which would make a strong impression upon one who had not beheld them, even upon me who am familiar with their appearance, it produced a very agreeable feeling. From the left wing a line runs _en cremaillere_, beside which, at an entering angle, a casemated magazine is placed near a small fort that defends the harbour. From this line a door opens towards the high rock called Shakspeare's Cliff, which we had not leisure to visit. The masonry of the fortification is of brick, with a half _revetement_. The rock is throughout chalk, containing flint.

These flints are much employed in paving roads and streets, to the great injury of the hoofs of horses; some houses in Dover are also built of them. We turned back again towards the corvette, highly gratified with our excursion. We saw two steam-boats arrive at Dover, one from Calais and the other from Boulogne. A water spout was pointed out to me at a distance. At one o'clock the wind began to blow fair, the anchor was weighed, and we stood onwards with fine weather, delighted with the continuous view of the English coast.

On the 30th of April with a fresh wind we made the eastern point of the Isle of Wight, where we hoisted a flag, and fired a gun for a pilot, who did not come on board immediately. We sailed cautiously onwards, came in sight of Portsmouth, and neared St. Helen's point, Isle of Wight. The pilot then came on board, and steered us into Spithead road, off Portsmouth. This town, in which I was so much pleased two years before, has a very handsome appearance. Several ships of the line were lying in the harbour, among which was the _Victory_, on board of which Lord Nelson was killed. When we saw the admiral's flag floating from her mainmast head, we saluted her with seventeen guns, which she returned with thirteen. We anch.o.r.ed in the road where we found two English corvettes, an East India company's ship, and a Portuguese frigate, which had brought the Portuguese amba.s.sador, the Marquis Palmella, to England.

CHAPTER II.

_Stay in England.-- Portsmouth.-- Plymouth.-- Devonport.-- Falmouth._

As the corvette was to remain, for the instruction of the midshipmen, until all the naval establishments had been accurately examined, I resolved to go on sh.o.r.e and travel from Portsmouth to Plymouth and Falmouth, and then rejoin the corvette. On the 1st of May I went in the boat, accompanied by Captain Ryk and Lieutenant Lejeune, to Portsmouth.

The sea ran very high, and the eight oarsmen made very little way against the swell. As we entered the harbour where the waves were exceedingly high, we turned so quickly that two seas struck our boat in the side, and made us more than once fear that she would be foundered.

Nevertheless we arrived safely, though thoroughly wet.

I remained in Portsmouth three days, and as its situation and relations were already known to me, I spent the time in reading, writing, paying and receiving visits, and in strolling about in interesting society. For a similar reason I allowed myself to make desultory observations.

According to the navy list, there are at Portsmouth sixteen ships in actual service, mounting five hundred and eighteen guns; sixty-five dismantled, with four thousand one hundred and forty-three guns, and eighteen building, which are to carry seven hundred and fifty-six guns; making a total of five thousand four hundred and seventeen guns.

Some of the lowest cla.s.s of people were masquerading in honour of the 1st of May. Most of them were dressed as Jack-puddings; others were ornamented with bladders: they marched through the streets to the sound of music, stopped and danced before some of the houses, and collected money. They also had a boxing match between two boys, which was conducted as a regular combat. As soon as one boy was down, his antagonist ceased to strike, and his second helped him up. One, however, did strike a blow while the other was down, whereupon several of the bystanders rushed upon the offender, held him fast, and gave him so many punches in the ribs that he was completely discomfited; and this terminated the fray. In the harbour about one hundred and fifty men were shipped as recruits for the 89th regiment, stationed in the East Indies.

They came from the depot at the Isle of Wight, and appeared to be very weak and miserable.

The Marquis Palmella, who resided in the same hotel with me, set out on the 3d of May with his family, a wife, eight children, and a numerous suite, for London. I paid him a visit, and was introduced to his lady, a very beautiful woman. The marquis, who is very generally esteemed, suffered considerably during the last Portuguese counter-revolution, and was kept prisoner for several days. During his stay at this place he has constantly had two honorary sentries, and an hour before his departure, a company of fifty marines, with three officers, and the band in full uniform, marched in front of the hotel, and remained as a guard of honour until he left Portsmouth. It was with real pleasure that I remarked the excellent condition of this corps.

The royal marines, whose barracks I visited, and saw the men defile, have an exceedingly fine appearance, and are highly esteemed. The officers are promoted according to seniority; but since the peace, the corps has been much reduced, and the officers are old in their grades.

The officers also are mostly persons without influence, and enter the royal marines because unable to purchase rank in the army. The barracks for the soldiers did not altogether please me: they are better regulated and kept more cleanly in the Netherlands. It is a good regulation that the bedsteads are iron, and that every man lies alone; but it is very bad on the other hand, that they cook in the same room.

I visited, in company with Captain Ryk, the Ganges, a ship of the line of eighty-four guns, built a few years since by Indian workmen, entirely of Teak-wood. This hard and heavy timber is not only very lasting, but has also the great excellence of not cracking in a warm climate. We were received on board the ship with great attention, in the absence of Captain Campbell, by Lieutenant Wright, who did the honours in a very friendly manner. I cannot sufficiently admire the neatness observed in this ship. They have an excellent mode of taking care of the rings, bolts, weapons, and other iron, bra.s.s, and copper utensils, on board of English ships of war. The forepart of the gun-deck is an extraordinary apartment, the iron implements are varnished, and the others polished and arranged along the whitewashed sides, so as to form figures and inscriptions. When strangers visit the ship a sort of chandelier is lighted, which produces a very beautiful effect. When we left the ship, Lieutenant Wright had the politeness to take us in his barge to the inner harbour, where the ships are laid up in ordinary. As we left the Ganges, she saluted us with nineteen guns.