Things To Make Part 20

They are made of hollow bra.s.s curtain rings, 1 inch in diameter, such as can be bought at four a penny. For spokes, solder two strips of thin tinned iron to the rings, using as little solder as possible. (Fig. 132.) To connect these wheels with the cha.s.sis, first bind to the lower ends of xy, xz two strips of thin tinned iron, T3 and T4, after drilling in them two holes of sufficient size to allow a piece of steel wire of "bonnet pin"

gauge to pa.s.s freely, but not loosely, through them. Soften the wire by making it red hot and allowing it to cool slowly, and solder one end of this wire (which must be quite straight and 5-1/4 inches long) to the centre of the cross pieces or spokes of one wheel. Pa.s.s the axle through the holes in the ends of xy, xz, and solder on the other wheel. Your cha.s.sis is then finished.

The rear skid (RS in Fig. 130) is attached to the central rod by gluing, and drilling a hole through both parts and inserting a wooden peg; or the upright may be mortised in. On no account use nail, tack, or screw. Attach the vertical masts and the horizontal ones about to be described by gluing and binding lightly with thread, or by neatly glued strips of the Hart's fabric used for the planes.

Horizontal Spars, etc.--To consider now the horizontal section or part plan of the model, from which, to avoid confusion, details of most vertical parts are omitted. Referring to Fig. 133, it will be seen that we have three horizontal masts or spars--HS1, 4 inches; HS2, 6 inches; and HS3, slightly over 12 inches long. The last is well steamed, slightly curved and left to dry while confined in such a manner as to conform to the required shape. It should so remain at least twenty-four hours before being fixed to the model. All the spars are attached by glue and neat cross bindings. If the central rod be of triangular instead of T section, the join can be made more neatly. The same remarks apply to the two 9 and 10 inch struts at the propeller end of the rod, which have to withstand the pull of the rubber motor on PPl. These two pieces will have a maximum strength and minimum weight if of the T section used for the rod. If the work is done carefully, 1/4 inch each way will be sufficient.

Main Plane and Elevator.--The framework of each plane is simply four strips of satin walnut or other suitable wood, 1/4 inch broad and 1/16 inch or even less in thickness for the main plane, and about 1/16 by 1/16 inch for the elevator. These strips are first glued together at the corners and left to set. The fabric (Hart's fabric or some similar very light material) is then glued on fairly tight--that is, just sufficiently so to get rid of all creases. The main plane is then fixed flat on to the top of the central rod by gluing and cross binding at G and H. (A better but rather more difficult plan is to fasten the rectangular frame on first and then apply the fabric.) The same course is followed in dealing with the elevator, which is fixed, however, not to the rod, but to the 4-inch horizontal spar, HS1, just behind it, in such a manner as to have a slight hinge movement at the back. This operation presents no difficulty, and may be effected in a variety of ways. To set the elevator, use is made of the short vertical mast, M1. A small hole is pierced in the front side of the elevator frame at Z, and through this a piece of thin, soft iron wire is pushed, bent round the spar, and tied. The other end of the wire is taken forward and wrapped three or four times round the mast M1, which should have several notches in its front edge, to a.s.sist the setting of the elevator at different angles. Pull the wire tight, so that the elevator shall maintain a constant angle when once set. H H1 is a piece of 25 to 30 gauge wire bent as shown and fastened by binding. It pa.s.ses round the front of the rod, in which a little notch should be cut, so as to be able to resist the pull of the twin rubber motors, the two skeins of which are stretched between H H1 and the hooks formed on the propeller spindles. If all these hooks are covered with cycle valve tubing the rubber will last much longer. The rubber skeins pa.s.s through two little light wire rings fastened to the underside ends of HS2. (Fig. 133.)

The front skid or protector, FS, is made out of a piece of thin, round, jointless cane, some 9 inches in length, bent round as shown in Fig. 134, in which A B represents the front piece of the T-shaped rod and x y z a the cane skid; the portion x y pa.s.sing on the near side of the vertical part of the T, and z a on the far side of the same. At E and F thread is bound right round the rod. Should the nose of the machine strike the ground, the loop of cane will be driven along the underside of the rod and the shock be minimized. So adjust matters that the skid slides fairly stiff. Note that the whole of the cane is on the under side of the top bar of the T.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 134.--Front skid and attachment to backbone.]

Bearings.--We have still to deal with the propellers and their bearings.

The last, TN and TNl (Fig. 133), are simply two tiny pieces of tin about half a gramme in weight, bent round the propeller spar HS3 at B and B1.

Take a strip of thin tin 1/4 inch wide and of sufficient length to go completely round the spar (which is 1/4 by 1/8 inch) and overlap slightly.

Solder the ends together, using a minimum amount of solder. Now bore two small holes through wood and tin from rear to front, being careful to go through the centre. The hole must be just large enough to allow the propeller axle to run freely, but not loosely, in it. Primitive though such a bearing may seem, it answers admirably in practice. The wood drills out or is soon worn more than the iron, and the axle runs quite freely. The pull of the motor is thus directed through the thin curved spar at a point where the resistance is greatest--a very important matter in model aeroplane construction. To strengthen this spar further against torsional forces, run gut ties from B and Bl down to the bottom of the rear vertical skid post; and from B to B1 also pa.s.s a piece of very thin piano wire, soldered to the tin strips over a little wooden bridge, Q, like a violin bridge, on the top of the central rod, to keep it quite taut.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 135--"Centrale" wooden propeller.]

Propellers.--To turn now to the propellers. Unless the reader has already had fair experience in making model propellers, he should purchase a couple, one right-handed and one left-handed, as they have to revolve in opposite directions. It would be quite impossible to give in the compa.s.s of this article such directions as would enable a novice to make a really efficient propeller, and it must be efficient for even a decent flight with a self-launching model. The diameter of the two propellers should be about 11-1/2 to 11-3/4 inches, with a pitch angle at the extremities of about 25 to 30 degrees as a limit. The "centrale" type (Fig. 135) is to be preferred. Such propellers can be procured at Messrs. A. W. Gamage, Ltd., Holborn, E.C.; Messrs. T. W. K. Clarke and Co., Kingston-on-Thames; and elsewhere.

For the particular machine which we are considering, the total weight of the two propellers, including axle and hook for holding the rubber, should not exceed 3/4 oz. This means considerable labour in cutting and sandpapering away part of the boss, which is always made much too large in propellers of this size. It is wonderful what can be done by care and patience. The writer has in more than one case reduced the weight of a propeller by more than one-half by such means, and has yet left sufficient strength.

The combined axle and hook should be made as follows:--Take a piece of thin steel wire, sharpen one end, and bend it as shown at C (Fig. 136). Pa.s.s the end B through a tight-fitting hole in the centre of the small boss of the propeller, and drive C into the wood. Solder a tiny piece of 1/8-inch bra.s.s tubing to the wire axle at A, close up to the rubber hook side of the propeller, and file quite smooth. The only things now left to do are to bend the wire into the form of a hook (as shown by the dotted line), and to cover this hook, as already advised, with a piece of valve tubing to prevent fraying the rubber skeins.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 136.--Axle and hook for propeller.]

Weight.--The weight of a model with a T-shaped central rod 1/16 inch thick should be 4-1/2 oz. Probably it will be more than this--as a maximum let us fix 6 oz.--although 4-1/2 oz. is quite possible, as the writer has proved in actual practice. In any case the centre of gravity of the machine without the rubber motor should be situated 1 inch behind the front or entering edge of the main plane. When the rubber motor (14 strands of 1/16-inch rubber for each propeller, total weight 2 oz.) is in position, the centre of gravity will be further forward, in front of the main plane.

The amount of rubber mentioned is for a total weight of 6-1/2 oz. If the weight of the model alone be 6 oz., you will probably have to use 16 strands, which again adds to the weight, and makes one travel in a vicious circle. Therefore I lay emphasis on the advice, Keep down the weight.

The front edge of the elevator should be set about 3/8 inch higher than the back, and the model be tried first as a glider, with the rubber and propellers in position. If it glides satisfactorily, wind up the motor, say 500 turns, and launch by hand. When a good flight has been obtained, and the correct angle of the elevator has been determined, place the model on a strip of linoleum, wind up, and release the propellers. The model should rise in its own length and remain in the air (if wound up 900 turns) at least three quarters of a minute. Choose a calm day if possible. If a wind blows, let the model face the breeze. Remember that the model flies high, and select a wide open s.p.a.ce. Do not push the model forward; just release the propellers, held one in each hand near the boss by the fingers and thumb. As a lubricant for the rubber use pure glycerine. It is advisable to employ a geared-up mechanical winder, since to make 1,800 turns with the fingers is rather fatiguing and very tedious.

Simple as this model may seem in design, one built by the writer on exactly the lines given has met the most famous flying models of the day in open compet.i.tion and proved successful against them.

XXVI. APPARATUS FOR SIMPLE SCIENTIFIC EXPERIMENTS.

Colour Discs for the Gramophone.--The gramophone, by virtue of its table revolving at a controllable speed, comes in useful for a series of optical experiments made with coloured discs bearing designs of different kinds.

The material needed for these discs is cardboard, covered with white paper on one side, or the Bristol board used by artists. The discs on which the designs are drawn should be made as large as the gramophone table will take conveniently, so as to be viewed by a number of people at once. To encourage readers who do not possess a gramophone, it may be pointed out that a gramophone, is merely a convenience, and not indispensable for turning the discs, which may be revolved on a sharpened pencil or any other spindle with pointed ends.

The Vanishing Spirals (Fig. 137).--This design, if spun slowly in a clockwise direction, gives one the impression that the lines all move in towards the centre. If the disc is turned in an anti-clockwise direction, the lines seem to move towards the circ.u.mference and disappear. To get the proper effect the gaze should be fixed and not attempt to follow the lines round.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 137.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 138.]

The Rolling Circles.--Figs. 138 and 139 are variations of the same idea.

In Fig. 138 two large circles are described cutting one another and enclosing a smaller circle concentric with the disc. When spun at a certain rate the larger circles will appear to run independently round the small.

The effect is heightened if the circles are given different colours. If black only is used for the large circles, the eyes should be kept half closed. In Fig. 139 two pairs of circles are described about two centres, neither of which is the centre of the disc. The pairs appear to roll independently.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 139.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 140.]

The Wriggling Line (Fig. 140).--If this design is revolved at a low speed and the eye is fixed on a point, the white (or coloured) line will seem to undulate in a very extraordinary manner. The line is made up of arcs of circles, and as the marking out is somewhat of a geometrical problem, a diagram (Fig. 141) is added to show how it is done. The dotted curves are those parts of the circles which do not enter into the design.

Begin by marking out the big circle A for the disc. The circ.u.mference of this is divided into six equal parts (chord equal to radius), and through the points of division are drawn the six lines from the centre. Describe circles aaa, each half the diameter of A. The circles bbb are then drawn from centres on the lines RRR, and with the same radius as aaa., The same centres are used for describing the circles a1 a1 a1 and b1 b1 b1, parts of which form the inner boundary of the line. The background should be blackened and the belt left white or be painted some bright colour.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 141.]

Another optical illusion is afforded by Fig. 142. Two sets of circles are described about different centres, and the crescent-shaped areas between them coloured, the remainder of the disc being left white. The disc is revolved about the centre of the white areas, and one gets the impression that the coloured parts are portions of separate discs separated by white discs.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 142.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 143.]

The Magic Spokes (Fig. 143).--Place a design like this on the gramophone and let it turn at high speed. The radial lines seem but a blur. Now punch a hole one-eighth of an inch in diameter in a piece of blackened card, and, standing well away from the gramophone, apply your eye to the hole and move the card quickly to and fro. The extreme briefness of the glimpses obtained of the moving lines seems to rob them of motion, or even make them appear to be moving in the direction contrary to the actual. Instead of a single hole, one may use a number of holes punched at equal intervals round a circle, and revolve the card on the centre. If a certain speed be maintained, the spokes will appear motionless.

The subst.i.tution of a long narrow slit for a circular hole gives other effects.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 144.]

A Colour Top.--Cut a 4-inch disc out of white cardboard and blacken one-half with Indian ink. On the other half draw four series of concentric black lines, as shown in Fig. 144. If the disc is mounted on a knitting needle and spun in a horizontal plane, the black lines will appear of different colours. A clockwise rotation makes the outermost lines appear a greenish blue, those nearest the centre a dark red, and the intermediate groups yellow and green. A reversal of the motion reverses the order of the colours, the red lines now being farthest from the centre. The experiment is generally most successful by artificial light, which contains a larger proportion of red and yellow rays than does sunlight. The speed at which the top revolves affects the result considerably. It should be kept moderate, any excess tending to neutralize the colours.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 145.]

The Magic Windmill.--Mark a circle 2-1/2 inches in diameter on a piece of notepaper, resting the centre leg [of the compa.s.s] so lightly that it dents without piercing the paper. With the same centre describe a 3/4-inch circle. Join the circles by eight equally s.p.a.ced radial lines, and an eighth of an inch away draw dotted parallel lines, all on the same side of their fellow lines in order of rotation. Cut out along the large circle, and then with a. sharp knife follow the lines shown double in Fig. 145.

This gives eight little vanes, each of which must be bent upwards to approximately the same angle round a flat ruler held with an edge on the dotted line. Next make a dent with a lead pencil at the exact centre on the vane side, and revolve the pencil until the dent is well polished.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 146.]

Hold a pin, point upwards, in the right hand, and with the left centre the mill, vanes pointing downwards, on the pin (Fig. 146). The mill will immediately commence to revolve at a steady pace, and will continue to do so indefinitely; though, if the head of the pin be stuck in, say, a piece of bread, no motion will occur. The secret is that the heat of the hand causes a very slight upward current of warmed air, which is sufficient to make the very delicately poised windmill revolve.

A Pneumatic Puzzle.--For the very simple apparatus ill.u.s.trated by Fig.

147 one needs only half a cotton reel, three pins, and a piece of gla.s.s or metal tubing which fits the hole in the reel. Adjust a halfpenny centrally over the hole and stick the pins into the reel at three equidistant points, so that they do not quite touch the coin, and with their ends sloping slightly outwards to allow the halfpenny to fall away.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 147.--Apparatus for ill.u.s.trating an apparent scientific paradox.]

Press the coin against the reel and blow hard through the tube. One would expect the coin to fall; but, on the contrary, the harder you blow the tighter will it stick, even if the reel be pointed downwards. Only when you stop blowing will it fall to the floor.

This is a very interesting experiment, and will mystify onlookers who do not understand the reason for the apparent paradox, which is this. The air blown through the reel strikes a very limited part of the nearer side of the halfpenny. In order to escape, it has to make a right-angle turn and pa.s.s between coin and reel, and, while travelling in this direction, loses most of its repulsive force. The result is that the total pressure on the underside of the coin, plus the effect of gravity, is exactly balanced by the atmospheric pressure on the outside, and the coin remains at that distance from the reel which gives equilibrium of forces. When one stops blowing, the air pressure on both sides is the same, and gravity makes the coin fall away.

The function of the pins is merely to keep the halfpenny centred on the hole. If steam is used instead of human breath, a considerable weight may be hung from the disc without dislodging it.

The Magic Swingers.--The easily made toy ill.u.s.trated next is much more interesting than would appear from the mere picture, as it demonstrates a very striking physical phenomenon, the transference of energy. If two pendulums are hung close together from a flexible support and swung, their movements influence one another in a somewhat remarkable way--the swing of the one increasing as that of the other dies down, until a certain point is reached, after which the process is reversed, and the "dying" or "dead"

pendulum commences to come to life again at the expense of the other. This alternation is repeated over and over again, until all the energy of both pendulums is exhausted.