The Ultimate Rice Cooker Cookbook Part 16

There are some smaller 2-cup molds (the Corinthian column is adorable) or English china pudding basins that will fit in the small or medium rice cooker, but the following recipes are designed for a 1 quart (6-cup) mold. If you use a 3-cup mold, just cut the recipe in half. While so many other of the metal molds are beautiful, they may be too tall for the rice cooker cover to sit properly and enclose the steam.

The technique for steaming is simple. The mold is b.u.t.tered and never filled past two-thirds to allow for expansion. Snap on the lid or cover. It is set on a rack or trivet in rapidly simmering water that should come halfway up the sides of the mold. In the large rice cooker, that is at the 5-cup line on the side of the bowl. It is important to check periodically in case the water has boiled off and needs to be replenished, but we found the rice cooker to be very efficient here; about 1 inches of water boiled off every 25 to 30 minutes.

Warm steamed puddings should have a complementary sauce, ice cream, or liqueur-flavored whipped cream to proclaim them ready to eat.

How to Make Individual Steamed Puddings Spoon the batter into well-b.u.t.tered ceramic ramekins, china pudding basins, Pyrex custard cups, or even ovenproof coffee cups, filling them two-thirds full. Securely cover each with a piece of b.u.t.tered aluminum foil and crimp the edges to seal. Set the steaming rack in place in the bottom of the cooker or place a wire rack in the bottom of the cooker and arrange the molds on the rack (they can be touching); you will probably have to steam in two batches. Pour in 1 to 2 inches of hot water, reaching only halfway up the molds. Turn on the cooker and bring the water to a boil. Steam until set, 25 to 35 minutes, depending on the size of the cups. Remove from the cooker with metal tongs and place on a wire rack. Remove the foil cover, run a knife around the sides to release the pudding, and turn out onto the rack. Serve warm or at room temperature with a sauce of choice. The small puddings are great to douse in a teaspoon of brandy and ignite (carefully) at serving time.

english pudding with cranberries and walnuts This is an Americanized version of the very traditional, very beloved English pudding called spotted d.i.c.k, which originally called for shredded suet and raisins. We discovered this recipe while researching recipes to run with a newspaper story on the food eaten by Harry Potter and his cohorts. This pudding is unusual because there are no eggs or b.u.t.ter in the ingredients and it still makes a luscious, nicely textured pudding. It takes literally minutes to combine. Serve with a package of Bird's custard sauce made according to the package instructions, if you want to be very English, or else use the following recipe for old-fashioned boiled custard.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 8 to 10 cup hot water cup light mola.s.ses2 teaspoons baking soda teaspoon salt teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground cinnamon1 cups all-purpose flour (Beth uses White Lily bleached all-purpose flour, a southern favorite, unsifted right out of the bag)2 cups fresh or frozen (and thawed) cranberries cup chopped walnutsEnglish Custard Sauce (page optional optional) 1. Set up the rice cooker for steaming by placing a small trivet or wire cooling rack in the bottom of the rice bowl. Fill the bowl one-quarter to one-third full of hot water, close the cover, and set for the regular cycle. If the water boils before you are ready to steam the pudding, flip the switch to the Keep Warm position (switch back for cooking). Generously grease or coat the inside of a 1-quart (6-cup) round melon-shaped tin pudding mold with a clip-on lid with b.u.t.ter-flavored nonstick cooking spray.

2. In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients in the order given with a large rubber spatula. Stir well with a folding motion until evenly moistened.

3. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared mold, filling it two-thirds full; snap on the lid. Set the mold on the trivet or wire rack in the bottom of the cooker, making sure it is centered and not tipped. Close the cover and reset the cooker for the regular cycle to bring back to a rolling boil, if necessary. Set a timer and steam for 1 hour, checking a few times to be sure the water doesn't boil off. Check the pudding for doneness; it should feel slightly firm to the touch, yet slightly moist. It should be puffed, rising to fill the mold, and a cake tester inserted in the center should come out clean. Unplug the machine to turn it off.

4. Using oven mitts, carefully transfer the mold from the steamer to a wire rack and remove the lid. Let stand for a few minutes, then turn upside down to unmold the pudding onto the rack or a serving plate.

5. Serve still warm, cut into wedges, or at room temperature, with custard sauce, if you like.

english custard sauce YIELD: 2 cups2 cups whole milk cup sugar1 teaspoon cornstarch5 large egg yolks1 teaspoons pure vanilla extract or 1 tablespoons Amaretto 1. In a medium-size saucepan over medium heat, scald the milk. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl or food processor, combine the sugar and cornstarch. Whisk in the egg yolks and vanilla. Beat hard with a whisk or process briefly until light colored and foamy. Whisking constantly, or with the food processor running, add the hot milk gradually to the egg mixture. Pour the custard back into the saucepan.

3. Cook the sauce gently over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a whisk, until just slightly thickened and smooth, and the sauce coats a spoon, about 5 minutes; do not boil. Pour the sauce into a storage bowl and let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate, covered, until serving time. Serve cold, pouring a little vanilla extract or Amaretto around each wedge of pudding.

persimmon pudding with brandy sauce The apple of the Orient is our orange globe of fall called the persimmon, a sign that the holidays are here in California. The neighborhoods are dotted with trees outfitted with the fetching pointed ovals. It's easy to beg a few because most trees are so abundant and it is a much misunderstood old-fashioned fruit. You want the goopy Hachiya persimmon, which is pointed at the base, not the crisp, flatter Fuyu, which is good in salads. You can freeze the ripe fruit whole or store the pulp in plastic storage containers, so you can have persimmon pudding, bread, or cookies in the summer. If someone says they don't like persimmons, just serve them a slice of this spicy-sweet pud; they will love it.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 8 to 103 to 4 very ripe Hachiya persimmons (jelly-like)1 cups sugar cup ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted3 tablespoons Cognac2 large eggs1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour1 tablespoon ground cinnamon teaspoon salt cups chopped pecans cup dark raisins or dried cherries1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice2 tablespoons hot water2 teaspoons baking sodaBrandy Sauce 1. Set up the rice cooker for steaming by placing a small trivet or wire cooling rack in the bottom of the rice bowl. Fill the bowl one-quarter to one-third full of hot water, close the cover, and set for the regular cycle. If the water boils before you are ready to steam the pudding, flip the switch to the Keep Warm position (switch back for cooking). Generously grease or coat the inside of a 1-quart (6-cup) round melon-shaped tin pudding mold with a clip-on lid with a b.u.t.ter-flavored nonstick cooking spray.

2. Remove the stems and skins from the persimmons (we slit them open and squeeze out the gooey pulp). Mash the pulp to make 1 to 1 cups. In a large bowl, whisk together the pulp, sugar, b.u.t.ter, Cognac, and eggs; beat until smooth. Switching to a large rubber spatula, stir in the flour, cinnamon, salt, pecans, raisins, and lemon juice; beat until combined. In a small bowl, stir together the hot water and baking soda. Pour into the batter and stir until well mixed.

3. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared mold, filling it two-thirds full; snap on the lid. Set the mold on the trivet or wire rack in the bottom of the cooker, making sure it is centered and not tipped. Close the cover and reset the cooker for the regular cycle to bring back to a rolling boil, if necessary. Set a timer and steam for 1 hour and 10 minutes, checking a few times to be sure the water doesn't boil off. Check the pudding for doneness; it should feel slightly firm to the touch, yet slightly moist. It should be puffed, rising to fill the mold, and a cake tester inserted in the center should come out clean. Unplug the machine to turn it off.

4. Using oven mitts, carefully transfer the mold from the steamer to a wire rack and remove the lid. Let stand for a few minutes, then turn upside down to unmold the pudding onto the rack or a serving plate.

5. Serve still warm, cut into wedges, or at room temperature, with spoonfuls of the Brandy Sauce.

brandy sauce YIELD: 3 cups1 large egg cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted and still hot1 cup sifted confectioners'sugarDash of salt2 teaspoons Cognac2 teaspoons Amaretto1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract1 cup cold heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks In a medium-size bowl, beat the egg until light colored with an electric mixer. On low speed, drizzle in the b.u.t.ter, which will cook the egg; beat on medium-high speed for 15 seconds to thicken. Beat in the sugar, salt, Cognac, Amaretto, and vanilla, then fold in the whipped cream. Refrigerate in a covered container up to 2 hours before serving. Stir gently with a whisk, if necessary, before serving.

mohr im hemd Mohr im Hemd, or Moor in a shirt, is a Viennese steamed chocolate and ground nut pudding topped with whipped cream to make a pure black-and-white dessert. It emerges as a delicate spongy cake with an almost oozy center, which is exactly the way it should be. Pure elegance. If you use a very bittersweet chocolate like Sharffen Berger, you don't have to use the two different chocolates, just 5 ounces of the one. This is a recipe Beth got from one of her all-time favorite cooking teachers, baker and pastry artist Diane Dexter.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 8 to 104 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped1 ounce unsweetened chocolate cup (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter2 slices dried-out white bread (sweet French bread or egg bread), crusts removed and pulled into pieces1 cup (4 ounces) whole almonds cup warm heavy cream teaspoon pure almond extract2 tablespoons all-purpose flour cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar4 large eggsPinch of salt1 cups cold heavy cream3 tablespoons sifted confectioners'sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1. Place the chocolates and b.u.t.ter in the top of a double boiler and melt over simmering water.

2. Place the bread in a food processor and grind to coa.r.s.e crumbs. You will have about 1 cup coa.r.s.e-ground fresh bread crumbs. Add the almonds and process with the bread crumbs until finely ground. Place the mixture in a medium-size bowl and add the cup warm cream and almond extract. Stir and let stand for 5 minutes.

3. Set up the rice cooker for steaming by placing a small trivet or 5-inch-diameter wire rack in the bottom of the rice bowl. Fill the bowl one-quarter to one-third full of hot water, close the cover, and set for the regular cycle. If the water boils before you are ready to steam the pudding, flip the switch to the Keep Warm position (switch back for cooking). Generously grease or coat the inside of a 1-quart (6-cup) round melon-shaped tin pudding mold with a clip-on lid with b.u.t.ter-flavored nonstick cooking spray. Combine the flour and 2 table spoons of the granulated sugar and dust the mold.

4. In a medium-size mixing bowl, beat the eggs, the remaining 2.3 cup granulated sugar, and the salt, using an electric mixer on high speed, until thick and light colored, about 3 minutes. Meanwhile, with a large rubber spatula, add the melted chocolate to the soaked crumbs. Fold the egg mixture into the crumb-chocolate mixture.

5. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared mold, filling it two-thirds full; snap on the lid. Set the mold on the trivet or wire rack in the bottom of the cooker, making sure it is centered and not tipped. Close the cover and reset the cooker for the regular cycle to bring back to a rolling boil, if necessary. Set a timer and steam for 1 hour, checking a few times to be sure the water doesn't boil off.

6. Meanwhile, whip the 1 cups cold cream with an electric mixer in a medium-size bowl until just thickened; add the confectioners'sugar and vanilla. Beat until soft peaks form. Refrigerate until serving.

7. Check the pudding for doneness; it should feel slightly firm to the touch, yet slightly moist. It should be puffed, rising to fill the mold, and a cake tester inserted in the center should come out clean. Unplug the machine to turn it off. Using oven mitts, carefully transfer the mold from the steamer to a wire rack and remove the lid. Let stand for a few minutes, then turn upside down to unmold the pudding onto the rack or a serving plate.

8. Serve the pudding still warm, cut into wedges, or at room temperature, with spoonfuls of the whipped cream. Pa.s.s the extra whipped cream in a separate bowl.

WHAT IS THE BEST DESSERT CUSTARD CUP?There are three main types of heatproof individual dishes suitable for steaming custards. The following recipes are designed to be used in these types of containers.Apilco and Emile Henri brands, available from specialty cookware stores, come in 3-inch-diameter ramekins with a -cup (4-ounce) capacity. Four of these will fit comfortably in the 10-inch-diameter steamer basket. If you are using a smaller rice cooker with the metal steamer tray insert, you will only be able to fit three at one time. The Apilco ramekin, really a miniature souffle dish, is always made of plain white French porcelain, while Emile Henri ceramics come in a range of earthy colors.Pyrex custard cups, easily available in most supermarkets and hardware stores, are 4 inches in diameter with a -cup (6-ounce) capacity. One-half cup of custard fits in this size as well. Three of these will fit comfortably in the 10-inch-diameter steamer basket (in the large rice cooker). If you are using a smaller rice cooker with the metal steamer tray insert, you will only be able to fit two custard cups at one time; cover and refrigerate the extra custard, steaming in batches.If you use the stacked 10-inch-diameter steamer baskets, you can double any recipe and steam a double rack of custards at one time. That means you can place two Pyrex cups on each level to steam the entire recipe at one time.

alchemy for RICE LEFTOVERS Plain Rice and Green Tea (Ochazuke) j.a.panese-Style Leftover Rice Soup Fried Shrimp Brown Rice Plain Fried Rice, Egg, and Peas Mushroom Fried Rice with Walnutsand Scallions Sausage and Portobello Fried Rice Fried Wild Rice with Chicken and Vegetables Poo Khao Phat Supparot (Thai Pineapple Fried Jasmine Rice with Crab) Smoky Seafood Fried Rice Saute of Corn, Brown Rice, and Fresh Basil Black Bean,Corn, and Rice Salad with Green Chile Vinaigrette Waldorf Rice Salad Lentil and Brown Rice Salad Curried Rice Salad Autumn Rice and Wheat Berry Salad Barley Salad with Fresh Dill and Vegetables Quinoa Tabboule j.a.panese Rice and Cabbage Salad Wild Rice Salad with Cranberries and Berry Vinaigrette Creamy Rice Salad with Fresh Fruits Rice Pancakes Savory Wild Rice Pancakes Leftover Risotto Pancakes b.u.t.termilk Rice Breakfast Pancakes Once you get comfortable with your rice cooker, you will find how easy it is to make and enjoy fresh rice on a daily basis. With that comes the inevitable: leftover rice. While rice is fluffy and moist when hot, the same component that keeps it this way "retrogrades" (a technical term to describe the hardening of the starch in the center of each grain) when chilled. The degree of retrogradation is slightly different in each rice, depending on how much starch is in the rice. A lot of cooks especially like jasmine rice for its ability to stay a bit softer after refrigeration than other white rices. Short- and medium-grain rices, ones that end up with a lot of starch surrounding the grain after cooking, will retrograde into a solid ma.s.s (risotto is a good example here). A dish like fried rice or a stuffing is perfect with hardened, crunchy rice; it holds its shape during secondary cooking. The best rice salads are made with rice that has not been refrigerated first. Just let the rice sit on the counter, covered, as long as overnight before adding the other ingredients; the rice is perfectly safe and will not spoil quickly. Of course, after adding the other ingredients, you must refrigerate the salad.

We keep leftovers in small plastic freezer bags, ready to be defrosted overnight in the refrigerator or in the microwave, to add to recipes. The first preparation that comes to mind for leftover rice is fried rice, improvised in the kitchen and made anew with each batch. Rice is also a great ingredient in other recipes, such as in soups, fried rice, rice salads, and pancakes, just to name a few. We have a.s.sembled a selection here to get you inspired, but remember your leftover rice for stuffings, ca.s.seroles, m.u.f.fins, and yeast breads as well.

plain rice and green tea (ochazuke) Ochazuke is as simple as it gets: plain cooked rice warmed up with brewed green tea, in roughly the same proportions as cereal and milk. is as simple as it gets: plain cooked rice warmed up with brewed green tea, in roughly the same proportions as cereal and milk. Ochazuke Ochazuke is such popular j.a.paneseAmerican family food that it even has a baby talk name: is such popular j.a.paneseAmerican family food that it even has a baby talk name: cha-cha gohan cha-cha gohan ( (cha-cha refers to the tea; refers to the tea; gohan gohan is rice). The rice can be fresh from your rice cooker's Keep Warm cycle or at room temperature. If it has been refrigerated, you may wish to reheat it slightly, either in the rice cooker or in the microwave. At the very least, remove it from the fridge while you prepare the tea. It can be a snack, a quick, light meal, or a way to end a family supper. If you wish, you can eat your tea rice with j.a.panese pickles or a pickled plum (umeboshi). is rice). The rice can be fresh from your rice cooker's Keep Warm cycle or at room temperature. If it has been refrigerated, you may wish to reheat it slightly, either in the rice cooker or in the microwave. At the very least, remove it from the fridge while you prepare the tea. It can be a snack, a quick, light meal, or a way to end a family supper. If you wish, you can eat your tea rice with j.a.panese pickles or a pickled plum (umeboshi).

YIELD: Serves 21 cups cooked j.a.panese-style white rice1 cup freshly brewed hot green tea Divide the rice between two bowls. Pour the hot tea over the rice and serve.

j.a.panese-style leftover rice soup This is a type of zosui zosui, the quick j.a.panese rice porridge made with cooked rice (as opposed to okai okai or or okayu okayu, which is made on the Porridge cycle or on the stove with raw rice). It is a great fridge-emptier for lunch the day after you've fixed a chicken dinner and have just one or two pieces left over. This recipe is from Julie's friend Sharon Noguchi, who learned to make it when she lived in Tokyo.

YIELD: Serves 22 large or 3 small dried or fresh shiitake mushrooms3 cups waterOne 1-inch square kombu (the seaweed used to make Dashi) cup grated carrot cup cooked skinless chicken cut into small chunks (or use another type of rather plain cooked meat)1 cup sliced Napa cabbage leaves cut crosswise inch thick cup frozen pet.i.te peas1 cups cooked j.a.panese-style white rice1 or 2 large eggsSalt (optional)Prepared chile sauce, chile paste, or chile oil, or a few drops of soy sauce (optional) 1. If you are using dried mushrooms, soften them by soaking in hot water to cover for 30 minutes, or microwave them. To microwave, place the mushrooms in a container just large enough to hold them and add water just to cover. Cover the container tightly with plastic wrap and micro wave on high for 2 minutes. Let the mushrooms rest until they are cool enough to handle. Drain.

2. Meanwhile, place the water in a medium-size saucepan. Gently clean the kombu square by wiping it with a damp paper towel, but do not remove the white powder, which adds flavor. Place the kombu in the water. Turn the heat to high. When the water boils, turn off the heat.

3. To prepare the softened mushrooms, trim off the tough stems and discard. Slice the caps as thinly as possible. If you are using fresh mushrooms, simply trim away the stems and thinly slice the caps. Add the mushrooms to the pan with the kombu, along with the carrot and chicken, and turn the heat to high again. Stir in the cabbage and peas. When the mixture comes to a boil, stir in the rice. Gently pour in the beaten egg in a swirl pattern, letting it set for a few seconds before stirring. The result will be threads of egg. Cook 2 to 3 minutes more, until the rice begins to soften.

4. Serve immediately, seasoned (if you wish) with salt to taste; a dash of chile sauce, paste, or oil; or just a few drops of soy sauce.

FRIED RICE.

Giving recipes for fried rice is like giving recipes for tossed green salad. Yes, you can go to the store, buy specific items, and follow a recipe if you wish, but few salads are actually made that way. In reality, salad-makers open their crisper drawers and toss in what's there. Leafy greens, yes, and the rest depends on what's on hand.

It's pretty much the same with fried rice, which is popular in many Asian countries, and in the United States, too. "Fried rice for dinner is a staple for me," says Judith Dunbar Hines, cultural liaison for the city of Chicago and former cooking teacher and recipe development consultant. "I always make double the amount of rice, usually Thai jasmine, keep two-inch chunks of bacon in the freezer, then mix and match with what is in the refrigerator-bits of raw or cooked vegetables and leftover chicken or pork. It is a different dish every time." To make fried rice, you need rice, of course, some kind of onion, and whatever else you like-eggs, garlic, vegetables, bits of meat or seafood; all of these are good. Using some of these ingredients-or none of these-is also fine. Your seasoning can be as plain as a dash of salt and pepper or a splash of soy sauce or fish sauce, or you can use more elaborate bottled condiments such as oyster sauce and chile paste.

Usually cookbooks have only one or two fried rice recipes at best, so we took it upon ourselves to gather a few favorite recipes from friends who are fried rice lovers. In the pages that follow, you can find some really special recipes. But first, here are some general tips for making fried rice. After reading them, you'll be ready to clean out your own refrigerator!

CLICK TO SEE THE BASICS : FRIED RICE.

fried shrimp brown rice This recipe is adapted from one in All American Waves of Grain All American Waves of Grain by Barbara Grunes and Virginia Van Dynckt (Henry Holt, 1997), one of Beth's favorite books. The recipe has had a few trans.m.u.tations with every making, but it is a delightfully savory fried rice with small shrimp (we like to use the 51/60 count). The omelet is a snap to cut into strips with a nice pair of kitchen shears, such as ones made by KitchenAid, with blades that are as sharp as a paring knife and used only for food. We use the authors' tip to use very cold rice (made the day before), even frozen rice that has just been taken out of the freezer before stir-frying, which seems to be especially important when using tender brown rices. by Barbara Grunes and Virginia Van Dynckt (Henry Holt, 1997), one of Beth's favorite books. The recipe has had a few trans.m.u.tations with every making, but it is a delightfully savory fried rice with small shrimp (we like to use the 51/60 count). The omelet is a snap to cut into strips with a nice pair of kitchen shears, such as ones made by KitchenAid, with blades that are as sharp as a paring knife and used only for food. We use the authors' tip to use very cold rice (made the day before), even frozen rice that has just been taken out of the freezer before stir-frying, which seems to be especially important when using tender brown rices.

YIELD: Serves 4 to 6 cup dried shiitake mushrooms3 tablespoons vegetable oil or Asian sesame oil2 large or extra-large eggs, lightly beaten1 large egg white, beaten until foamy2 teaspoons dry white wine2 teaspoons cornstarch pound small shrimp, sh.e.l.led, rinsed, and patted dry4 green onions, white parts and 3 inches of the green parts, chopped1 heaping cup bean sprouts cup coa.r.s.ely grated carrot cup finely diced celery cup finely diced zucchini2 ribs bok choy, chopped, or cup chopped fresh green beans cup reduced-sodium tamari (a thick, strong soy sauce)4 cups cold cooked brown rice, such as long-grain brown Texmati, Wehani, or red riceAsian sesame oil, for serving (optional) 1. Soak the mushrooms in boiling water to cover until nice and soft, about 30 minutes, or microwave, covered tightly with plastic wrap, for 2 minutes. Let cool before draining. Trim away and discard the stems. Mince the caps and set aside.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a 10-inch skillet or wok. Pour in the beaten whole eggs. When they have set, turn the omelet over with 2 spatulas; cook briefly on the second side, but do not brown. Slide the omelet out of the pan onto a plate; cut into thin strips with kitchen shears or a knife.

3. In a medium-size bowl, whisk together the egg white, wine, and cornstarch. Add the shrimp and toss to coat.

4. Wipe out the skillet or wok with a paper towel and add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over high heat. Add the shrimp mixture and stir-fry until lightly cooked, about 30 seconds. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl, leaving any liquid in the pan. Add the mushrooms, green onions, sprouts, carrot, celery, zucchini, and bok choy; stir-fry until cooked and warmed through, a few minutes. Add the tamari and rice; stir-fry, breaking up any clumps of rice, until nice and hot, about 5 minutes. Stir in the shrimp and cook until hot.

5. Serve the rice immediately, with a drizzle of sesame oil over the top, if desired.

plain fried rice, egg, and peas This is as plain as it gets. You can leave out the egg, the peas, or both and have an even simpler dish. Beth adds cup or so of diced Chinese barbecued pork or honey-baked ham and a few sliced water chestnuts to this basic fry. Remember to use a very cold rice, such as Chinese-Style Plain Rice, so it will hold up during the cooking.

YIELD: Serves 21 green onion, white and green parts, sliced1 clove garlic, minced2 cups cold cooked rice1 large egg, lightly beaten (optional) cup frozen pet.i.te peas, thawed teaspoon salt, or to taste (optional)2 teaspoons soy sauce 1. Coat a 10- or 12-inch nonstick skillet or wok with nonstick cooking spray twice. Heat the skillet over medium-high heat. Add the green onion and garlic and stir-fry for a minute or two to soften the onion; do not let the garlic burn. Add the rice, breaking up any clumps; stir-fry the rice, allowing it to heat up and grow fragrant.

2. If using the egg, push the rice over to one side of the pan and pour the egg into the empty s.p.a.ce. Don't worry if the edges of the egg run into the rice. Allow the egg to cook for a few seconds undisturbed; the bottom will begin to set. Then stir the rice into the egg, folding the rice and egg over and over to distribute the egg bits as evenly as possible throughout the rice. Add the peas and keep stirring. When the peas are almost hot, add the salt, if using, and soy sauce. Stir to combine and serve the rice immediately.

mushroom fried rice with walnutsand scallions From creative recipe consultant Julia Scannel, here is one of her unique home recipes. She recommends serving this rice as a meal starter or appetizer piled into individual b.u.t.ter lettuce leaves with a drizzle of plum sauce-like the minced chicken dish served with lettuce leaves for rolling, burrito style, found at some Chinese restaurants. The fried rice should be hot so it contrasts with the cold lettuce leaf, a real sensory treat.

YIELD: Serves 2 as a light meal, 4 aspart of a larger meal cup fresh green beans cut on the diagonal into -inch lengths2 tablespoons soy sauce1 tablespoon oyster sauce1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine (available in Chinese markets) or medium-dry sherry1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon peanut oil small white onion, diced2 cups chopped fresh mushrooms (mix of cremini, oyster, and shiitake)1 clove garlic, minced2 large eggs, lightly beaten1 cups cold cooked white rice1 green onion, white and green parts, thinly sliced on the diagonal, for garnish2 tablespoons coa.r.s.ely chopped walnuts, toasted toasted, for garnish 1. Blanch the green beans in a pot of salted boiling water for 1 minute; drain and set aside.

2. Combine the soy sauce, oyster sauce, and wine in a small bowl and set aside.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a 12-inch skillet or heavy wok over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 2 minutes, stirring frequently to avoid burning. Add the mushrooms and stir frequently until they have cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and beans and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

4. Make a large well in the bottom of the skillet by pushing the mushroom mixture to the outside of the pan. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon oil to the middle of the skillet. When the oil is hot, add the eggs to the well. After the eggs begin to set, gently stir until they reach a crumbly stage. Add the rice to the skillet and stir to incorporate the eggs and rice into the mushroom mixture, breaking up any clumps in the rice. Add the soy sauce mixture and stir to combine.

5. Serve the rice immediately, sprinkled with the green onion and walnuts.

sausage and portobello fried rice Atsuko Ishii, the source of so much of the information about j.a.panese cooking in this book, contributed this recipe. At home in Tokyo, Atsuko would make this fried rice with fresh shiitake mushrooms, but here in the States, the portobellos are always available and more reasonably priced. Choose oyster sauce for a mild dish, chile bean paste for a spicier one.

YIELD: Serves 4 to 62 medium-size to large portobellos or pound fresh shiitake mushrooms8 ounces Polish smoked sausage3 large eggs, lightly beaten4 cups cold cooked rice4 green onions, white and green parts, sliced1 tablespoon oyster sauce or 1 tablespoon chile bean paste2 tablespoons soy sauce 1. Clean the mushrooms by wiping them gently with a damp paper towel. Break off and discard the stems. Slice the caps about inch thick. Cut the larger slices in half or thirds crosswise.

2. Slice the sausage in half lengthwise, then into half-moon slices about 1.3 inch thick.

3. Coat a 12-inch nonstick skillet with nonstick cooking spray. Heat the skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring gently so as not to break them. When they begin to soften, add the sausage and stir-fry until the sausage is slightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms and sausage to a plate.

4. Quickly rinse and dry the skillet with a paper towel, coat it with nonstick cooking spray twice, and heat it over medium-high heat. When hot, pour in the eggs. Allow them to cook undisturbed for about 1 minute, until they are about half-set. Working quickly, add the rice, breaking up any clumps with your fingers or the spatula, and green onions. Stir to combine. Return the sausage and mushrooms to the skillet, stir to combine, and reheat. Add the oyster sauce and soy sauce and stir to combine. Serve the rice immediately.

fried wild rice with chicken and vegetables Wild rice may sound unusual as a base for Chinese-style fried rice, but it is just as good as any Asian rice. It is a great way to use up leftovers, but we prefer to use it in equal proportions with long-grain white or brown jasmine rice to cut the inherent intensity of the grain.

YIELD: Serves 42 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons canola oil or Asian sesame oil1 large or extra-large egg, lightly beaten1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger1 teaspoon minced garlic3 fresh mushrooms, sliced, or one 4-ounce can straw mushrooms, drained and left whole1 whole boneless, skinless chicken breast, trimmed of fat and cut into strips2 green onions, white parts and some of the green parts, chopped1 stalk celery, diced cup frozen pet.i.te peas or blend of peas and carrots, thawed cup diced cooked ham4 cups cold cooked wild rice or white and wild rice blend2 tablespoons oyster sauce or vegetarian mushroom oyster sauce1 tablespoon soy sauce2 teaspoons Asian sesame oilPinch of freshly ground white pepper cup chicken stock 1. Heat a small nonstick skillet over medium heat. When hot, add 2 teaspoons of the canola oil and the egg; tip the pan to spread the egg over the bottom of the pan (like you are making a crepe). Cook the egg until barely set; turn once and cook the other side for about 30 seconds. Slide the egg out of the pan and let cool. Fold over and cut into thin shreds with kitchen shears or a knife.

2. In a 12-inch skillet or wok, heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil over high heat. Add the ginger, garlic, and fresh mushrooms (if using straw mushrooms, add with the rice later in the recipe); stir-fry for 10 seconds. Add the chicken and stir-fry until cooked through, a few minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, leaving any juices in the pan.

3. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon canola oil to the pan and add the green onions and celery. Stir-fry until softened, a few minutes. Add the peas, ham, rice, and straw mushrooms, if using; stir-fry, breaking up any clumps of rice, until nice and hot, at least 5 minutes. Add the oyster sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, pepper, and chicken stock. Stir the chicken mixture and egg threads back in and cook until hot and the stock is evaporated. Serve immediately.

poo khao phat supparot (thai pineapple fried jasmine rice with crab) This fabulously exotic recipe for fried rice comes from San Francisco food writer Joyce Jue. Although any long-grain rice can be used for Thai fried rice, long-grain jasmine rice works best. In Thailand, jasmine rice is also called fragrant or scented rice. While jasmine rice does not have an actual jasmine scent, or any fragrant flower petal for that matter, it does emit a pleasant floral aroma when cooked. The crab paste in soybean sauce is a prepared condiment. It is not crabby or fishy but it does bring a savory essence to the dish; it is easily found in Asian specialty markets.

YIELD: Serves 4 to 61 ripe fresh pineapple2 tablespoons vegetable oil teaspoon salt3 cloves garlic, coa.r.s.ely chopped pound medium-size shrimp, sh.e.l.led and deveined pound cooked chicken, cut into -inch dice2 large or extra-large eggs1 tablespoons Thai crab paste in soybean sauce1 to 2 tablespoons ketchup3 green onions, white parts and 1 inch of the green parts, thinly sliced4 cups cold cooked Thai Jasmine Rice Thai Jasmine Rice, gently crushed to break up clumps2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish2 ounces fresh lump crabmeat, picked over for sh.e.l.ls and cartilage, for garnish1 tablespoon crispy fried shallot flakes (a ready-to-use product), for garnish (optional) 1. Preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Cut the pineapple in half lengthwise. Hollow out each half, leaving the sh.e.l.ls intact. Place the hollow sh.e.l.ls on a baking sheet and set in the oven for 10 minutes to dry out. When dried, remove from the oven and set aside. Coa.r.s.ely chop 1 cup of pineapple; place in a bowl and set aside. Keep the remaining pineapple for another use.

3. Heat a wok over medium-high heat and add the oil and salt. When hot, add the garlic; stir-fry until light golden brown, about 30 seconds. Increase the heat to high and add the shrimp and chicken; stir-fry until the shrimp are bright orange-pink, about 1 minute.

4. Make a well in the center of the hot wok; crack the eggs into it. With the spatula, break up the egg yolks, but do not scramble. Let the eggs fry without stirring until the whites turn opaque, about 1 minute. Add the crab paste and ketchup, stir once or twice, then add the green onions, rice, and fish sauce. Toss quickly to warm the rice and incorporate the seasonings, about 2 minutes.

5. Add the reserved pineapple; toss and stir to heat, about 1 minute. Spoon the rice into the pineapple sh.e.l.ls and garnish with the cilantro leaves, crabmeat, and shallot flakes, if using. Serve immediately.

smoky seafood fried rice Julie's friend Feng-Chih "Lucy" Wuchen, who is from Taiwan, is the source of this glamorous recipe, so named because it has two smoked ingredients. If you live near a Chinese deli, you can find the crowning touch, smoked cuttlefish. If not, don't worry; it's good without it, too. Fish b.a.l.l.s are sold refrigerated and frozen in Asian markets. Look for them in the meat, deli, or freezer case. You can freeze any leftover fish b.a.l.l.s until next time. And if you can't find fish b.a.l.l.s or smoked cuttlefish, just toss in a few more shrimp. Lucy is a health-conscious cook who made this with medium-grain brown rice, but you could use white rice, too.

YIELD: Serves 3 to 43 green onions, white and green parts, sliced, 1 teaspoon green parts reserved for garnish1 large or 2 small cloves garlic, minced2 slices bacon, cut into 2-inch squares4 fish b.a.l.l.s, cut into quarters6 to 8 medium-size shrimp, sh.e.l.led and deveined cup sliced smoked cuttlefish (optional)1 cup finely shredded cabbage or bokchoy1 tablespoon water2 cups cold cooked rice2 tablespoons soy sauce teaspoon salt (optional) 1. Coat a 12-inch nonstick skillet with nonstick cooking spray twice. Heat the skillet over medium-high heat. Add the green onions (except the reserved green parts) and garlic and stir-fry until the onions soften a bit; don't let the garlic burn. Add the bacon and continue to stir-fry. When the bacon begins to look cooked, add the fish b.a.l.l.s and shrimp; stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the cuttlefish, if using, and cabbage; sprinkle the water over the cabbage and stir-fry until the cabbage begins to soften and lose volume, a minute or so.

2. Add the rice, breaking up any clumps; stir-fry until it is warm and fragrant. Add the soy sauce and salt, if using; stir-fry to combine. Serve immediately, garnished with the reserved green onions.

saute of corn, brown rice, and fresh basil Just when you thought you knew all there was to know about fried rice, here is a fried rice from a different part of the world using the same techniques, but different ingredients. Here fresh vegetables and basil are cooked with leftover rice. This is a rice Beth makes as a side dish for catering sit-down dinner parties and it is a smash hit with everyone. Originally fashioned by food writer James McNair after a dish at one of Beth's favorite hangouts, Christy Hill Restaurant in Lake Tahoe, it has had a few trans.m.u.tations over the years. Make it with equal amounts of wild rice and long-grain brown rice, or cook up one of the brown rice blends from Lundberg Family Farms; you want a hearty-flavored rice, not white rice. Make this immediately!

YIELD: Serves 42 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons olive oil2 tablespoons minced shallotsCorn kernels from 6 to 7 medium-size ears fresh white corn or one 12-ounce bag frozen baby white corn kernels, thawed (3 to 3 cups)2 cups cold cooked blend of wild rice and long-grain brown rice3 tablespoons drained and minced oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes cup minced fresh basil leavesSaltFreshly ground black pepper 1. In a 10- or 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat the b.u.t.ter and oil over medium-high heat. When the b.u.t.ter melts, add the shallots and saute for a minute or two, until softened. Add the corn and cook for 1 to 2 minutes.

2. Add the rice, breaking up any clumps with your fingers, if necessary. Saute for 2 minutes, allowing the rice to heat up and grow fragrant. Add the tomatoes and basil; keep stirring. Cook for another few minutes to heat all the ingredients through, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately.

RICE AND GRAIN SALADS.

A well-made salad is an irresistible delight. It is healthy eating at its best. Inspiration runs wild, whether it be a simple or more elaborate combination of rice and grains mixed with fruits, vegetables, shreds of poultry or ham, or beans and tossed with a variety of superb dressings.

If you are making a fair amount of rice in your cooker, you will inevitably have leftovers and can use them here, if you'd like. Rice salads, while not a commonplace dish in most households, are an absolute delight; they are fantastic as well as filling. You can make a small salad from whatever leftovers you have, or freeze your leftover rice in plastic storage bags and collect enough for a salad, or make rice especially for your salad (which is what we do). Rice doesn't spoil at room temperature after it is cooked, so you can leave it at room temperature, covered, as long as overnight, then a.s.semble your salad with tender rice. Always refrigerate any salad containing meat or dairy ingredients.

You can make your reputation as a cook on distinctive salads and here is a selection of some of our most requested favorites-the best of the best. Black Bean, Corn, and Rice Salad (at right), Curried Rice Salad, and Wild Rice Salad with Cranberries and Berry Vinaigrette come from Beth's catering files and have been made to feed up to a hundred people (just scale up all the ingredients proportion-ally). The others are served for small gatherings at home. Remember that once you have a.s.sembled the salad, refrigerate it, and the rice will absorb the flavors you have added.

French dining has a meal known as dejeuner sur l'herbe dejeuner sur l'herbe, the veritable picque-nicque picque-nicque, our outdoor midday meal known as a picnic or barbecue. Some wine or lemonade, bread and cheese, cornichons, fresh fruit, a wonderful cake or some cookies, and a hearty salad are all that are needed for a feast. Carry salads in a cooler to keep them chilled until serving.

black bean,corn, and rice salad with green chile vinaigrette This is a dynamite combination of beans, rice, and veggies. The vinaigrette is not too spicy, so it appeals to all sorts of diners. This is a great picnic salad since it is best at room temperature.

MACHINE: Medium-size (6-cup) ricecooker; fuzzy logic or on/of fCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 10RICE2 cups converted rice4 cups water1 teaspoon saltVINAIGRETTE cup corn or vegetable oil cup corn or vegetable oil cup fresh lime juice3 tablespoons cider vinegar2 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugarOne 4-ounce can minced roasted green chiles, drained1 teaspoon chili powder1 teaspoon ground c.u.minSALADThree 16-ounce cans black beans, drained and rinsedTwo 12-ounce packages frozen baby corn kernels, thawed1 bunch green onions, white parts and some of the green parts, chopped cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves 1. Prepare the rice: Prepare the rice: Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle. Place the rice in the rice cooker bowl. Add the water and salt; swirl to combine. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle.

2. When the machine switches to the Keep Warm cycle, let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Fluff the rice with a wooden or plastic rice paddle or wooden spoon. Keep the cover open and let the rice cool to room temperature right in the cooker bowl.

3. Make the vinaigrette: Make the vinaigrette: In a food processor, combine all the vinaigrette ingredients. Process, pulsing, until mostly smooth and emulsified. It is okay to have some chunks of chile. In a food processor, combine all the vinaigrette ingredients. Process, pulsing, until mostly smooth and emulsified. It is okay to have some chunks of chile.

4. a.s.semble the salad: a.s.semble the salad: In a large bowl, combine the rice, beans, corn, green onions, and cilantro and mix to combine well. Pour the vinaigrette over the salad. Toss to combine and evenly coat. Let stand at room temperature for up to 4 hours, or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days before serving. Serve the salad at room temperature. In a large bowl, combine the rice, beans, corn, green onions, and cilantro and mix to combine well. Pour the vinaigrette over the salad. Toss to combine and evenly coat. Let stand at room temperature for up to 4 hours, or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days before serving. Serve the salad at room temperature.

waldorf rice salad This is Beth's version of Waldorf salad. The rice makes it more filling. You can use a bit more dried cherries and almonds if you like a lot of these. We say this serves four, but be prepared: It has often been totally consumed by two. Serve cold with roast turkey breast and steamed vegetables.

YIELD: Serves 4SALAD3 firm eating apples, such as Fuji or Red Delicious, cored and dicedJuice of 1 small lemon2 cups room temperature cooked rice, such as basmati, Jasmati, or long-grain brown (or use half wild rice)2 to 3 stalks celery, sliced cup slivered blanched almonds cup dried tart cherriesDRESSING cup mayonnaise cup plain yogurt 1. Make the salad: Make the salad: Combine the apples and lemon juice in a large bowl (we use one with a snap-on lid). Add the rice, celery, almonds, and cherries; toss together. Combine the apples and lemon juice in a large bowl (we use one with a snap-on lid). Add the rice, celery, almonds, and cherries; toss together.

2. Make the dressing: Make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise and yogurt. Pour over the salad and stir with a large rubber spatula to combine and coat evenly with the dressing. Store the salad in the refrigerator until ready to serve. This is best eaten the day it is made. In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise and yogurt. Pour over the salad and stir with a large rubber spatula to combine and coat evenly with the dressing. Store the salad in the refrigerator until ready to serve. This is best eaten the day it is made.

lentil and brown rice salad When Chez Panisse restaurant opened a cafe upstairs from the main dining room, it quickly became one of Beth's watering holes whenever she went to shop or visit friends in Berkeley. Since it was always so jammed, it was best to show up for lunch just after the doors opened at 11 A.M. Her favorite lunch was a lentil salad with soft fresh goat cheese crumbled on top, peasant French bread and sweet b.u.t.ter, and a Perrier mineral water, all for about five dollars. The cafe switched to taking reservations to relieve the crowds, so it is difficult to get in for a casual spur-of-the-moment lunch anymore. Here is Beth's version of her favorite salad with the addition of brown rice.

MACHINE: Medium (6-cup) rice cooker ;fuzzy logic or on/offCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 8LENTILS1 cup dried pet.i.te French lentils or green lentils2 cups water1 teaspoon salt2 sprigs of fresh thyme or 1 teaspoons dried thymeVINAIGRETTE cup olive oil cup red wine vinegar (a bit less if you use cabernet vinegar)SaltFreshly ground black pepperSALAD2 cups room temperature cooked Brown Jasmine Rice Brown Jasmine Rice3 green onions, white parts and some of the green parts, chopped, or cup minced fresh chives cup finely chopped celery or seeded and finely chopped red bell pepper cup finely chopped red onion3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves3 tablespoons chopped golden raisins3 tablespoons chopped walnuts5 ounces goat cheese, crumbled 1. Prepare the lentils: Prepare the lentils: Rinse and pick over the lentils. Place the lentils, water, salt, and thyme in the rice cooker bowl. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle and set a timer for 40 minutes. The liquid should all be absorbed. When the cycle ends or the timer sounds, unplug the machine, open the cover, and let the lentils cool to room temperature right in the cooker bowl. Rinse and pick over the lentils. Place the lentils, water, salt, and thyme in the rice cooker bowl. Close the cover and set for the regular cycle and set a timer for 40 minutes. The liquid should all be absorbed. When the cycle ends or the timer sounds, unplug the machine, open the cover, and let the lentils cool to room temperature right in the cooker bowl.

2. Make the vinaigrette: Make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

3. a.s.semble the salad: a.s.semble the salad: In a large bowl, combine the rice, lentils, green onions, celery, red onion, parsley, raisins, and walnuts. Toss with enough of the dressing to coat lightly; it is okay to have some vinaigrette left over. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour before serving, or cover tightly and refrigerate for as long as overnight. In a large bowl, combine the rice, lentils, green onions, celery, red onion, parsley, raisins, and walnuts. Toss with enough of the dressing to coat lightly; it is okay to have some vinaigrette left over. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour before serving, or cover tightly and refrigerate for as long as overnight.

4. Serve the salad at room temperature, adding the goat cheese right before serving.

curried rice salad This is a fantastic salad Beth originally learned from food writer Louise Fiszer when she had her cooking school in Menlo Park, California. The dressing evolved to this honey-curry version, which is so good, Beth often gives it by the jar for Christmas presents (it is just as nice on romaine or b.u.t.ter lettuce). Even if curry is not your thing, this dressing will have you licking your lips. You can use the imported white basmati or domestic brown basmati. Be sure to serve the salad nice and cold.