The Survey of Cornwall Part 31

Vpon the left hand from hence, at the top of a creek, Perin towne hath taken vp his seat, rather pa.s.sable, then noteable, for wealth, buildings, and Inhabitants; in all which, though neere the hauens mouth, it giueth Truro the preeminence: the like whereof I obserue, touching diuers other townes, of the same situation, in Deuon, as Salcomb, and Kings bridge, Dartmouth, and Totnes, Topsham, and Excester: amongst which, those that stand highest vp in the Countrey, affoord therethrough, a fitter oportunity of accesse, from all quarters, and so a speedyer and larger vent of their commodities.

In Perin was Glasney Colledge, founded [1256.] by Walter Brouns...o...b.. & benefited by Iohn Graundson, Bishops of Excester [1327.], which See possesseth faire reuenues thereabouts.

Vpon another creeke on the same side, Carclew hath (after the Cornish maner) welneere metamorphosed the name of Master Bonithon, his owner, into his owne. He maried the daughter of Viuian, his father of Killigrew, his graundfather of Erisy, and beareth A. a Cheuron betweene 3, Floures de luce. S.

With any memorable act or accident, concerning this hauen, I cannot acquaint you, before my parting therefrom, saue onely, that Philip, Arch-duke of Austriche, during his voyage from Netherland towards Spayne (his wiues Kingdome) was weather-driuen into Weymouth, and, with a kinde constraint, receyued a more royall, then welcome entertainment, at the hands of King Henrie the 7. from which hee could not free himself, but by redeeming his libertie, with De la Pooles captiuity. This accomplished, he made choyce to take ship again at Falmouth, that so by the shortest cut, hee might leaue least power in fortune, to thwart him any second inc.u.mbrance.

Hailford, so called, of the fordible riuer Haill, if elsewhere placed, would carry the reputation of a good harbour; but as it now standeth, Falmouths ouer-neere neighbourhood lesseneth his vse, and darkeneth his reputation, as quitting it onely to the worst sort of Seafarers, I meane, Pirats, whose guilty brests, with an eye in their backs, looke warily how they may goe out, ere they will aduenture to enter; and this at vnfortifyed Hailford, cannot be controlled: in which regard, it not vnproperly brooketh his more common terme of Helford, and the nick-name of Stealfoord.

His sh.o.r.es affoord commodious seates, to the dwellings of Reskimer, who maried S. Abin, and beareth B. 3. barres A. in cheife a Wolfe pa.s.sant of the first: and Tregose, who matched with Kendal: his sonne with Erisy, and beareth B. two barres Gemewes in cheife a Lyon pa.s.sant O. armed and langued G.

And if your eares be not already cloyed with relation of wonders, I will let you vnderstand, how I was once carried to see one hereabouts. It is (forsooth) a [152] great rock, lying vpon the ground, his top deepned to a hollownesse, not much vnlike in fashion, but far exceeding in proportion the long halfe of an egge.

This (they say) holdeth water, which ebbeth and floweth as the sea, and, indeed, when I came thither, the tyde was halfe out, and the pit halfe empty. By it there stands a Chappell, & to it there belonged a couer, so as the same seemed, in former times, to cary some regard.

But I haue heard credible persons so discredit this woonder, that I dare not offer it you, as probable, much lesse thrust it vpon you, as approoued. The name thereof is, Hanterdauis, which (turning d to t) signifieth halfe a tongue.

More certaine, though lesse wonderfull, and yet, for the strangenesse, wel worth the viewing, is Mainamber: Mayne, is a rocke, amber, as some say, signifieth Ambrose. And a great rocke the same is, aduaunced vpon some others of a meaner size, with so equall a counterpeyze, that the push of a finger, will sensibly moue it too and fro: but farther to remooue it, the vnited forces of many shoulders are ouer-weake. Wherefore the Cornish wonder-gatherer, thus descrybeth the same,

BE thou thy mother natures worke, Or proofe of Giants might: Worthlesse and ragged though thou shew, Yet art thou worth the sight.

This hugy rock, one fingers force Apparently will moue; But to remooue it, many strengths Shall all like feeble prooue.

Helston, in Cornish, h.e.l.laz, in English, the greene hall, is a well seated and peopled towne, priuiledged, secundum vsum, with the rest, and one of the 4. Coynage places.

Vnder it runneth the riuer Lo, whose pa.s.sage into the sea, is thwarted by a sandy banke, which forceth the same to quurt back a great way, and so to make a poole of some miles in compa.s.se. It breedeth a peculiar kind of b.a.s.t.a.r.d Trought, in bignesse and goodnes exceeding such as liue in the fresh water, but comming short of those that frequent the salt.

The foreremembred bank serueth as a bridge, to deliuer wayfarers, with a compendious pa.s.sage, to the other side; howbeit, sometimes with more haste then good speed: for now and then, it is so pressed on the inside, with the increasing riuers waight, and a portion of the vtter sand, so washed downe by the waues; that at a sudden, out breaketh the vpper part of the poole, and away goeth a great deale of the sand, water, and fish: which instant, if it take any pa.s.senger tardy, shrewdly endangereth him, to flit for company: and some haue so miscarried.

To this poole adioyneth M. Penrose his house, whose kind entertainment hath giuen mee, and many others experience of these matters.

He maried the daughter of Rashleigh: he beareth A. 3. Bendes S.

charged with 9. restes.of the field.

Those 2. riuers of Haill and Lo, rising not farre asunder, doe enclose betweene them, as they runne into the sea, a neck of land, particularized with the name of Meneag: and in regard of his fruitfulnesse, not vnworthy of a seuerance.

[153]

Within this circuit, lie Trelawarren M. Viuians house, and Erisy, seated in 2. parishes, and descended, by a long ranke of ancestours, to the Gent, of that name, now in ward. His father married Carew: his graundsire, one of Militons coheires, who ouerliuing her husband, ended the course of her long and well commended widdowhood, in becomming Lady to Sir Nicholas Parker. The Enzies beare S.

a Cheuron, betweene 3. Griffons Sergreant O.

Clowance (deriued from Cloow, which signifieth, to heare) is the possession and dwelling of M. Saintabin, whose very name (besides the conquest roll) deduceth his first auncestours out of Fraunce.

His graundfather married Greinuile: his father, one of Whittingtons coheires: which later couple, in a long and peaceable date of yeeres, exercised a kinde, liberall, and neuer discontinued hospitality.

Himselfe tooke to wife the daughter of Mallet, and with ripe knowledge and sound iudgement, dischargeth the place which he beareth in his Countrey. Hee beareth O. on a crosse G. fiue Bezaunts.

Pengueraz, in Cornish importeth a head to help; from which, some deduce the Etymon of Pengersick, a fayre house, in an vnfruitfull soyle, sometimes the inhabitance of M. Militon, Captaine of the Mount, and husband to G.o.dolphin, whose sonne being lost in his trauaile beyond the seas, enriched 6. distafs with his inheritance. They were bestowed in mariage (but by me not orderly marshalled) as followeth: 1. to Erisy, and Sir Nicholas Parker. 2. to Lanine, 3. to Trefuses, and TreG.o.deck, 4. to Trenwith, Arundel, and Hearle, 5. to Bonithon. 6. to Abbot.

Not farre from thence, riseth G.o.dolghan-ball, or hill, at whose foote standeth a house of the same name, and so int.i.tling his owner, though lately declined (with a milder accent) to G.o.dolphin: in Cornish, it signifieth, a white Eagle: and such armes they carry in this sort: G. an Eagle displayed with two heads, betweene three Floures de luce A.

This hill hath, for diuers descents, supplyed those Gent.

bountifull mindes, with large meanes accruing from their Tynne-works, and is now possessed by Sir Frauncis G.o.dolphin Knight, whose zeale in religion, vprightnesse in iustice, prouidence in gouernment, and plentifull housekeeping, haue wonne him a very great and reuerent reputation in his Countrey: and these vertues, together with his seruices to her Maiestie, are so sufficiently knowne to those of highest place, as my testimony can adde little light thereunto: but by his labours and inuentions in Tynne matters, not onely the whole Countrey hath felt a generall benefit, so as the seuerall owners haue thereby gotten very great profit out of such refuse works, as they before had giuen ouer for vnprofitable; but her Maiesty hath also receyued encrease of her customes by the same, at least to the value of 10. thousand pound. Moreouer, in those works which are of his owne particular inheritance, hee continually keepeth at work, three hundred persons or thereabouts, & the yerely benefit, that out of those his works accrueth to her Maiestie, amounteth, communibus annis, to one thousand pound at the least, and sometimes to much more. A matter very remorceable, and perchaunce not to be matched againe by any of his sort and condition in the whole Realme. He succeeded to the inheritance [154] of his vnkle Sir William G.o.dolphin, who, as hath bene said before, demeaned himselfe verie valiantly in a charge which hee bare at Boloigne, towards the latter end of the reigne of King Henry the 8. & is like to leaue the same to another Sir William his sonne, who giueth hope, not onely of the sustaining, but increasing of the reputation of his family. Hee matched with Killigrew, his father with Bonython, his Graund-father with Glynne,

Diuers other Gentlemen there dwell in this Hundred, as Lanyne, the husband of Kekewitch, his father married Militon, and beareth S. a Castle, A. standing in waues B. ouer the same a Faulcon houerin with bels O. Pernwarne, that matched with the coheire of Tencreek, who beareth S. a Cheuron betweene three Flowers de luce A.

Lagherne, who tooke to wife the daughter of Nants, and beareth B.

a Cheuron betweene three Escalops, O. Nansperyan coupled in matrimonie, with [blank] and his two daughters and heires apparent, with Prideaux, and Mathew; who beareth A. three Losenges S.

Penwith. Hundred.

MY last labour, for closing vp this wearisome Suruey, is bounded, as Cornwall it selfe, and so the West part of England, with Penwith Hundred. The name, in English signifieth, the head of Ashen trees, belike, for some such eminent marke, while the Countrie was better stored of Timber. The Danes sayling about Penwith Steort (saith Houeden [997.]) made foule hauocke, in Devon and-Cornwall.

Vpon the North sea, lieth Nants, which importeth a valley, and houseth a Gent, who therethrough, hath worne out his former name, of Trengoue, in English,the Smithes towne, and a.s.sumed this: he married Sir Iohn Arundels daughter of Trerice: and beareth A. a crosse haumed S.

During summer season, the Seales haunt a Caue, in the Cliffe thereby, and you shall see great store them, apparently shew themselues, and approch verie neere the sh.o.r.e, at the sound of any lowde musicke, or other such noyse.

Beyond Nants, M. Ba.s.set possesseth Tehiddy, who married G.o.dolphin, his father Coffyn : he beareth O. three Piles in point G.

a Canton Er. with a difference.

And so, leauing these priuate Inhabitances, & keeping still the North coast, we arriue at the towne, and port of S. Ies: both of meane plight, yet, with their best meanes, (and often, to good and necessarie purpose) succouring distressed shipping. Order hath bene taken, and attempts made, for bettering the Road, with a Peere, but eyther want, or slacknesse, or impossibilitie, hitherto withhold the effect: the whiles, plentie of fish is here taken, and sold verie cheape.

As you row to the Westwards from hence, the sea floweth into a large Caue, farder vp, then any man durst yet aduenture to discouer, and the Cliffes thereabouts muster long strakes of a glittering hiew, which import a shew of Copper: and Copper mynes are found, and wrought in the grounds adioyning.

M. Camden obserueth, that neere hereunto, stood the watch-towre, mencioned by Orosius, and oppositely placed to such another in Galitia.

Stepping ouer to the South-sea, (for the distaunce [155] is in comparison, but a step) S. Michaels mount looketh so aloft, as it brooketh no concurrent, for the highest place. Ptolomey termeth it Ocrinum, the Cornish men, Cara Cowz in Clowze, that is, The h.o.a.re rocke in the wood. The same is sundred from the mayne land, by a sandy playne, of a slight shoot in breadth, pa.s.sable, at the ebbe, on foote; with boat, on the flood. Your arriuall on the farther side, is entertayned by an open greene, of some largenesse, which finishing where the hill beginneth, leaues you to the conduction of a winding and craggy path; and that at the top, deliuereth you into a little plaine, occupied, for the greatest part, by a fort of the olde making.

It compriseth lodgings for the Captayne and his garrison, and a Chappell for deuotion. This latter, builded by Will. Earle of Morton, to whom William the Conquerour his vncle, gaue much lands in those quarters, and greatly haunted, while folke endured their merits, by farre trauailing. They haue a tye pit, not so much satisfying vse, as relieuing necessitie. A little without the Castle, there is a bad seat in a craggy place, called S. Michaels Chaire, some what daungerous, for accesse, and therefore holy for the aduenture.

Vntill Richard the firsts raigne, the mount seemeth to haue serued onely for religion, and (during his imprisonment) to haue bene first fortified by Henry de la Pomeray, who surprized it, and expulsed the Monks: howbeit soone after, when hee became ascertained of his Soueraignes enlargement, the very feare of ensuing harme wrought in him a present effect of the vttermost that any harme could bring, namely, his death: whereon, the olde cell and new fort, was surrendred to the Archbishop of Canterbury, in the Kings behalfe.

Thus Houeden reporteth. But the descendents from this Pomeray, alias, Pomeroy, make a somewhat different relation of this accident: for they affirme, that a Sergeant at armes of the Kings, came to their auncestour, at his Castle of Bery Pomeroy, in Deuon, receyued kind entertaynment for certaine dayes together, and at his departure, was gratified with a liberall reward: in counter-change whereof, he then, and no sooner, reuealing his long concealed errand, flatly arresteth his hoaste, to make his immediate appearance before the King, for answering a capitall crime.

Which vnexpected and il-carryed message, the Gent, tooke in such despite, as with his dagger hee stabbed the messenger to the heart: and then well knowing in so suparlatiue an offence, all hope of pardon foreclosed, he abandones his home, gets to a sister of his abiding in this mount, bequetheth a large portion of his land to the religious people there, for redeeming his soule: and lastly, causeth himselfe to be let bloud vnto death, for leauing the remainder to his heire: from which time forward, this place continued rather a schoole of Mars, then the Temple of peace.

For shortly after the discomfiture of H. the 6. party, by Ed. the 4.

[11. E. 4.] at Barnet field, Iohn Earle of Oxford, who had made one, and one of the princ.i.p.all on the weaker side, arriued heere by shipping, disguised himselfe, with some of his followers, in Pilgrims habits, therethrough got entrance, mastred the garrison, and seyzed the place. Which, thus politikely wonne, hee as valiantly kept, and kept a long time defended against the Kings power, vntill reasonable conditions swayed him to a surrender.

[156]

A like surprize, but of later date, I read in Popeliniere [2. Vol. Lib. 31.], touching the like named and seated mount, in Normandy.

During the last Cornish commotion, diuers Gent. with their wiues and families, fled to the protection of this place, where the Rebels besieged them, first wynning the plaine at the hils foote, by a.s.sault, when the water was out, and then; the euen ground on the top, by carrying vp great trusses of hay before them, to blench the defendants sight, and dead their shot. After which, they could make but slender resistance: for no sooner should any one within, peepe out his head, ouer those inflanked wals, but he became an open marke to a whole showre of arrowes. This disaduantage, together with the womens dismay, & decrease of victuals, forced a surrender to those Rakehels mercy, who, nothing guilty of that effeminate vertue, spoyled their goods, imprisoned their bodies, and were rather by G.o.ds gracious prouidence, then any want of will, purpose, or attempt, restrayned from murdering the princ.i.p.all persons.

Heere also [13. H. 7.], was the Lady Katherine Gordon (an vnfit yoke-fellow for that counterfeit Prince, Perkin Warbeck) taken by the L. Daubney, and conueyed to the King. Of this, as the last wonder.

Who knowes not Mighels mount and chaire, The Pilgrims holy vaunt: Both land, and Iland, twise a day, Both fort, and port of haunt.

Vnder the mount extendeth a bay, for lesser vessels to lie at: and betweene it and the Westerne sh.o.a.re, there is an indifferent good road for shipping, sauing vpon some winds, called the Mounts bay: where, by Froissarts report, Sir Robert Knolles landed, what time his returne out of Fraunce, was by K. Ed. the 3. commaunded, and for his valiant exployts there, atchieued, very graciously welcomed.

Ouer-against the Mount, fronteth a towne, of petty fortune, pertinently named Marcaiew, of Marhas diow, in English, the Thursdaies market; for then it vseth this traffike.

At the beginning of K. H. the 8. raigne, it felt the Frenchmens fiery indignation, who landed there with 30. sayle. But the smoke of those poore houses, calling in the country to the rescusse, made the place ouer hote for the enemies any longer abode.

Mousehole, in Cornish, is named Porternis, and in Latin, Portus Insulae, both importing one sense, to wit, the Iland hauen, and so called, through a little Iland placed before it.

M. Holinshed telleth vs, that neere heereunto, not many yeeres sithence, certayne Tynners, as they were working, found Speare heads, Battel-axes, and swords of Copper, wrapped in lynnen clouts, and little impayred through their long lying.

Pensans, by interpretation, The Saints head, is a market towne, not so regardable for his substance, as memorable for his late accident of the Spaniards firing, which fell out in this maner: