The Sunny Side of Ireland Part 11

" " Caherciveen, _15s. 0d._ _8s. 0d._

" " Valentia, _15s. 0d._ _8s. 0d._

" " Portmagee, _18s. 0d._ _10s. 0d._

" " Derrynane, _15s. 0d._ _8s. 0d._

" " Parknasilla, _30s. 0d._ _16s. 0d._

Fifty per cent. additional for return journey.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Coomakisteen Hill.]

The coach road from Waterville, following the outskirts of Ballinskelligs Bay, insinuates itself up a dizzy height. Looking backwards, Waterville, "standing with reluctant feet" between the sea and the lake, seems to wonder which is more bewitching. Forging ahead through the mountain gaps, we pa.s.s under ~Coomakiska~, 1,500 feet, and ~Beenarourke~, 1,000 feet above the sea level. Clearing the gates of the mountains, we come into the open highlands above ~Derrynane~, watching out from its post over the sea. Truly the home for a chief. Here O'Connell spent his happiest days, within the roar of the Atlantic billows, but far from the turmoil and stress of the great agitation in which his figure looms large as a giant form. Here his hospitable door flew open wide to the pa.s.sing stranger, and across the hills, with the fleet-footed hound, he enjoyed the most delightful of sports, coursing!

Several interesting relics of the Liberator are shown at the house of his descendant, the present proprietor. The ruins of ~Derrynane Abbey~, in the vicinity of O'Connell's home, stand on a small peninsula, at some seasons transformed into an island by the divorcing rush of the high tides. It was a foundation of the monks of St. Finbarr, called Aghermore, such a place as that described in the life of St. Brendan, who, first of the old-world mariners, discovered the great Land of the West.

I grew to manhood by the western wave, Among the mighty mountains on the sh.o.r.e; My bed, the rock within some natural cave, My food, whate'er the sea or seasons bore.

And there I saw the mighty sea expand, Like Time's unmeasured and unfathomed waves; One with its tide-marks on the ridgy strand, The other with its line of weedy graves.

And, as beyond the outstretched waves of Time, The eye of Faith a brighter land may meet; So did I dream of some more sunny clime, Beyond the waste of waters at my feet.

From Cahirdaniel village, the site of a Danish fort, the route extends directly along the Kenmare Fiord, under the foot of Crohan Mountain. The Slieve Misk and Cahar Mountains separate themselves out to win our admiration the better. They recall Lady Dufferin's words, addressed to other sweet mountains, where

"The sunlight sleeping On your green banks is a picture rare, You crowd around me like young girls peeping, And puzzling me to say which is most fair; As though you'd see your own sweet faces Reflected in that smooth and silver sea O! my blessing on those lovely places, Though no one cares how dear they are to me."

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Sneem.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Sneem.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Sneem.]

On the road beneath Crohan, a mile north from Coad Church is St.

Kiernan's Cell, eaten into the face of the sheer rock. In this district formerly the mines were worked and copper smelted. As the road winds along we can see Staigue-an-or, with its cyclopean mounds, lying low and dwarfed on the hillside. By the high mountains, where the coach-horn sounds sweet and awakens echoes, the road comes down into the lowlands, and from the bridge is seen beautiful landscape, with ~Sneem~ spread out in the foreground. Under lovely beechen boughs, and through a glade of oak and first we are ushered into

PARKNASILLA,

An ideal residence, hidden from the summer sun by a variegated veil of the rocky garden foliage; sheltered from the winter's blast by the Askeve Mountains and the kind sh.o.r.es that b.u.t.ton themselves around its inlet sea, of which Mr. A. P. Graves has written:

"Ocean before, the summer sky above Who could pourtray the mountains' purple smiles-- And all the opal hues of earth and heaven, Foam fringing forests, heather-tufted Isles; The roseate dawn--purpureal pomps of even-- And young Atlantic's petulant, shifting wiles?

Who could do aught but mar the true expression Where all is change? Then why a record shape Of scenes whose nature glories in succession From wood to wave--from wave to distant cape-- Like the young poet's dream, fair beyond all possession."

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ At Parknasilla.]

Here in the demesne lands of a Bishop's Old Palace, the ~Southern Hotel~ new palace has been built. The green turf of its lawn extends down to the water's edge. It is a land of arbutus and myrtle, of glades laden with the pink and white blossoms of oleander and rhododendron, and thick with bells of fuschias, the fair daffodils of Shakespeare and Herrick, that fade away too soon:

"Daffodils that come Before the swallow dares, and take The winds of March with beauty."

Derreen, away in the lap of the landscape, found favour of Froude, and at Kilmackilloge he found material for his novel. The beautiful ~Garinish~ Island is like a little paradise, lost in a land where all is lovely. Around the sh.o.r.es, and in the sandy caves, the beautiful seals cl.u.s.ter, and at times are so tame as to answer the shrill whistle of the boatman, and show their lovely forms on the water's surface near at hand. We live in sceptical times, when

"The powder, the beauty, and the majesty, That had their haunts in dale, or piney mountain, Or forests by slow stream, or pebbly spring, Or chasms and watery depths--all these have vanished.

They live no longer in the faith of reason."

But still here, along the old-world sh.o.r.es, where daylight dies, the superst.i.tions and traditions of the pagan past still linger among them, and there is none more interesting than that which teaches the fishermen to regard these beautiful-eyed, plaintive-voiced creatures with tenderness. The souls of the dead, drowned at sea, who die out of friendship with G.o.d, go into the bodies of the seals, and there through the ages await the Trump of the Archangel to call them before the Great White Throne.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Southern Hotel, Parknasilla.]

"Parknasilla is situated on the northern sh.o.r.e of Kenmare Bay, a bay rich in beauty, and with singularly-indented coast lines. Its well-sheltered position amidst a number of islets, thickly wooded down to the water's edge, has endowed it with unique advantages. This protective area gives to Parknasilla claims of a special character, and prevents the access to it of all winds except those coming from the warmer points, viz., south and south-west; these winds, before reaching the southern coast of Ireland, having travelled over the Gulf Stream, and being thus subjected to its moderating and balmy influence. We all recognise what elevation of the land will do for any place, particularly if it shelters that place from winds blowing from the cold quarters.

Thus, mountain protection is of supreme importance in the choice of a health resort, more especially in the winter and spring seasons of the year. In this regard Parknasilla is exceptionally favoured, a mountainous range closely guarding and protecting it from the northerly and easterly winds. The combination of mountain, wood, and water gives a special charm to this locality; and a convincing evidence of the mildness of the winter and early spring here is the forward character of the vegetation, the early budding of the trees, shrubs, and flowers--all bearing testimony to the mildness of the climate. Temperature rapidly tells its tale on the vegetable world, and there can be no more rea.s.suring proof of the equable and balmy character of the climate of a district than the early growth of flowering shrubs, plants, and table produce. The position of this favoured and sheltered sea inlet upon the isothermal map shows it to have a mean annual temperature of 52 degrees, being similar in this regard to its neighbour, Glengarriff, and registering a higher mean annual temperature than Ventnor or Torquay.

The mildness of the climate in the earlier spring months is of such a character that exercise can be freely partaken of in the open air daily, without risk of chill; and this to the invalid is of paramount importance. No record has, as yet, been regularly taken of the daily sunshine, or of the rainfall, but so far as could be ascertained, the rainfall does not appear to be excessive. To sufferers from chronic or recurrent affections of the respiratory organs, Parknasilla, in the winter and early spring months, would appear to be indicated as a most desirable place of residence. I have had the advantage of two recent visits to this district, and feel convinced that, when it becomes better known, Parknasilla will prove a veritable haven of health and rest to the chronic invalid and the convalescent, as well as a delightful retreat to the busy man of the 'world's mart,' who may need a temporary repose from the worries and cares of daily life. Parknasilla is about a two hours' drive or thereabouts from Kenmare, the drive being one of exceptional beauty and interest."--_Dublin Journal of Medical Science_, May, 1896.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Garinish Island, Parknasilla.]

DRIVING AND BOATING EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF PARKNASILLA.

No. 1--Car to Sneem, and by Killarney Road to Letterfinish; thence to Tahilla Chapel, and return by Dunquilla (ancient fort), or direct. _8s._

No. 2.--Car to Sneem and Letterfinish; on to Geragh Bridge, and by Blackwater Valley and Coast Road to Tahilla, returning by Dunquilla, or direct, _12s._

No. 3.--Car to Sneem and Coomyauna Bridge, pony (cost _5s._, to top and back not included), or walk to summit of Beoun Mountain, view of Glencar and M'Gillicuddy Reeks, Cloon, Lakes, and Coomlumina Glen with Dingle Bay in the distance. Return same way. _12s._

No. 4.--Car to Sneem and Glorah, pony (cost _5s._, to top and back not included), or walk to summit of Finnavagough, view of Foylenagearough, Cloonaghlin, Derriana, and Waterville Lakes.

Return same way. _12s._

No. 5.--Car to Staigue Fort and back. This ancient round stone Fort, in a wonderful state of preservation, is well worth a visit.

_16s._

No. 6.--Car to Blackwater Bridge and Waterfall; along the Blackwater Valley to Lough Erin, view of Ballaghbeama Pa.s.s, returning by Geragh Bridge, Sneem Road, and Tahilla. _16s._

No. 7.--By boat to Reenkilla, car to Glanmore Lake, and by Furniss to Killmakillogue, skirting Derreen, Lord Lansdowne's demesne (fare _5s._, not included). Return by boat (four-oared). _20s._

No. 8.--By boat to Ormonde's Island; car along sh.o.r.e of Clonea Lake to Inchiquin, Glen and Cascade, thence by Derreen or coast road.

(Fare, _10s._, not included.) Return by boat (four-oared). _20s._

No. 9.--By boat to the Caves, and into Ardgroom Harbour; car by Eyeries to Castletown-Bere, Dunboy Castle, and back (fare _10s._, not included). Return by boat (four-oared). _20s._

Excursions by Steam Launch will also be organised to the Caves, Ardgroom, Derrynane, and other places of interest on the Kenmare River.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Cycling at Parknasilla.]

[Ill.u.s.tration]

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Photo, Lawrence, Dublin._ Blackwater at Kenmare.]

The demesne around the hotel comprises one hundred acres of beautiful land, where tropical flora flourish all the year round. The meadows trim, with daisies pied, there are on every mossy bank the dewy lips of