The South of France-East Half Part 63

[Headnote: a.n.a.lYSIS OF THE WATER.]

CONTENTS OF THE SPRINGS OF MONT-DORE AND BOURBOULE.

MdS Madeleine Spring. CsS Caesar Spring.

PvS Pavillon Spring. RaS Ramond Spring.

RiS Rigny Spring. BPC Bourboule, Perriere and Choussy Springs.

+------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ MdS PvS RiS CsS RaS BPCS +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+ Free carbonic 0.3552 0.3810 0.3644 0.5967 0.4997 0.0518 acid gas Bicarbonate 0.5362 0.5452 0.5375 0.5361 0.5362 2.8920 of soda of potash 0.0309 0.0309 0.0232 0.0212 0.0212 .... of lime 0.3423 0.3142 0.3092 0.3209 0.2720 0.1905 of magnesia 0.1757 0.1676 0.1628 0.1676 0.1647 .... of protoxide 0.0207 0.0235 0.025 0.0258 0.0317 0.0021 of iron Chloride of Sodium 0.3685 0.3630 0.3599 0.3587 0.3578 2.8406 Sulphate of soda 0.0761 0.0761 0.0761 0.0756 0.0737 0.2084 a.r.s.eniate of soda 0.00096 0.00096 0.00096 0.0009 0.00095 0.02847 Silicic acid 0.1654 0.1686 0.1653 0.1552 0.1550 0.1200 Alumina 0.0112 0.0094 0.0101 0.0083 0.0065 Traces. +------------------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------+

Bourboule contains, besides what is given here, the chloride of pota.s.sium and magnesium. The active and special principle of both waters is the a.r.s.eniate of soda, which, it will be observed, is 29 times more abundant in the Bourboule water than in that of Mont-Dore.

The temperature of the two hottest Bourboule springs is 140 F., or 27 above the hottest of Mont-Dore.

These waters are recommended for certain forms of chronic bronchitis, asthma, and laryngeal complaints, gastro-enteric and uterine disorders marked by congestion, similar cases in which the liver is implicated, nervous maladies, and scrofulous diseases. --Madden's _Health Resorts_. Three or four gla.s.ses of the Madeleine water are taken daily by the majority of patients. It produces an increase of appet.i.te, and is often attended with diarrha about the fifth or sixth day; this is mostly succeeded by a certain degree of constipation, which frequently lasts to the end of the course. About the twentieth day a disgust of the water is generally experienced, which is an indication that the saturation point has been obtained. --Lee's _Baths_.

As the weather of Mont-Dore is changeable, a supply of warm clothing is necessary. For excursions, a vehicle with 2 horses costs per day 20 to 25 frs.; saddle-horses, 5 to 10 frs. per day.

[Headnote: EXCURSIONS. QUEUREUILH.]

_Excursions._--There are many pleasant and beautiful excursions around Mont-Dore, among the volcanic hills clothed with sombre pine forests and verdant meadows, rent at intervals by deep gullies with sullen waters or roaring torrents in the dark depths below, chafing against the jagged vertical cliffs of the ravines. Lakes sleep placidly in the craters which vomited forth these confused ma.s.ses of rocks and knolls over which in many places now rush and tumble superb waterfalls. The Alpine Club have distributed over the district a liberal supply of finger-posts, which indicate the distance as well as the way to the different places.

One of the first excursions undertaken is to the +Cascade du Queureuilh+, about 2 m. N. by the village of Le Queureuilh, half-way between the falls and Mont-Dore. This cascade, one of the most beautiful in this region, is formed by the outlet of the Enfer from Lake Guery (see below), 5 m. N. from Mont-Dore, or 3 from the falls.

The stream, after rushing through the ravines of Blaise and Queue, tumbles over a hard basaltic precipice 98 ft. high. From the falls of Queureuilh tourists often return by what is incorrectly called the falls of the Rossignolet, a placid stream which enters the ravine of Enfer about half a mile below the falls of Queureuilh. This excursion may be made in a carriage. On foot it is easily walked in 4 hrs.

Excursions of much the same character, and in the same direction, are made to the Cascades de l'Angle 1 m., to the Saut-du-Loup 1 m., and to the Pre du Barbier.

[Headnote: LAKE GUeRY.]

The excursion to Lake Guery, 5 m. N., commences by the new road to Randanne, cut in the flanks of the prettily-wooded Mt. Angle. At a turning of the road, just over the village of Queureuilh, there is a charming panoramic view of the valleys of Mont-Dore and of Sauves. To the W. are the towns of Le Quaire and Bourboule. Southwards are the Capucin, 4807 ft., the Aiguilles d'Enfer, and the giant peak De Sancy.

Lake Guery, one of the shallowest of the lakes, 4062 ft., is 1 m. W.

from the main road, in a desolate region, surrounded by arid rugged peaks. N. from the lake, at the entrance to a picturesque defile, stand like sentries, on the left the Roche Tuilliere, 4246 ft., one side a vertical cliff, the other clothed with verdure; on the right the Roche Sanadoire, with huge basaltic columns, resembling those of the Giant's Causeway.

[Headnote: ORCIVAL.]

4 m. N. from Lake Guery is the ancient village of +Orcival+, with an inn and a church of the 9th and 10th cents., containing a miraculous image found near it under the earth. 2 m. W. from the Orcival road is the Pierre-Branlante, a slightly movable overhanging rock. From Orcival return by the Randanne road to Mont-Dore, 11 m. S.

N.E. from Lake Guery, or 9 m. N.E. from Mont-Dore by Mt. Aiguiller, 5076 ft., is Lake Servieres, 3939 ft. above the sea, 75 ft. deep, in an extinct crater. On the N. margin are a tumulus and an ancient camp.

9 m. E., at the village of Fohet, S. from Lake Aydat, are some menhirs.

The village and lake of Chambon, 2881 ft. above the sea, are 12 m. E.

from Mont-Dore by the valleys of Moneau and Chaudefour, and rather less by the highway pa.s.sing Diane or Dyanne.

From Murols the road ascends 5 m. S. to Besse, whence it pa.s.ses by Lake Pavin to Va.s.sivieres, 5 m. W. from Besse. At Va.s.sivieres a bridle-path diverges N. to the Pics of Ferrand and Sancy (see p. 381).

To the W. and S.W. of Mont-Dore are the Salon Mirabeau 2 m., the cascades of Verniere 3 m., and Plat-a-Barbe 3 m. (p. 385); and the top of the Puy Gros 3 m. (p. 385).

[Headnote: PICS DE SANCY AND FERRAND. LAKE PAVIN.]

The most important excursion is to the summit of the Pic de +Sancy+, 6188 ft. above the sea, or 2786 ft. above the village of Mont-Dore, and 5 m. S. from it by the valley of the Dordogne. Guide unnecessary.

Good bridle-road till within 20 minutes of the top. Horse, 6 frs. From the Grande Rue enter the Pic de Sancy road, leave the Chateau-d'Eau on the left. At about a third of the way the Dordogne is crossed, and shortly afterwards is pa.s.sed the ravine of the Egravats, formed by a landslip of the trachytic mountain, the Roc de Cuzeau, 5706 ft.; and a little farther S. on the same (E.) side the Puy de Carcadogne, 5890 ft. To the right or W. side are the valleys of Lacour and Enfer, separated from each other by a d.y.k.e of dark porphyritic trachyte.

Shortly after, the Dore is crossed where it joins the Dogne, 4420 ft.

above the sea. A little farther is the cascade of the Serpent, where the Dogne, descending by a tortuous course, has been likened to a serpent. Opposite are the more noisy falls of the Dore. A path at the foot leads to an old alum mine.

The road, cut in the sides of the mountain, now ascends by the course of the Dogne, which rises between two large blocks. Then having crossed the infant Dore we arrive at the Buffet, 5863 ft., situated in the marshy meadow of the Dore. The horses are left here--25 c. charged for taking care of each. From this to the top on foot requires about 20 minutes. The view is splendid and of immense extent from this the highest mountain in central France and the culminating point of that great volcanic eruption called the Mounts Dore, 54 m. in circ.u.mference, which have broken their way through the early and solid granite rocks. A half-hour is sufficient to descend Sancy and mount the Puy Ferrand, 6066 ft. Return to Mont-Dore, 6 m. N., by the Chemin des Cretes.

3 m. S. from Sancy or 8 from Mont-Dore is Va.s.sivieres, a poor hamlet on a tableland, 4266 ft., with a church built in 1595, containing a miracle-working image, discovered while digging for water a little to the W. of the church. It spends four months of the year at Va.s.sivieres, and the rest in the church of Besse. It is carried between the two places with all the pomp possible; the iron crosses on the road indicate the resting stations. 2 m. E. from Va.s.sivieres, or 10 m. from Mont-Dore, on the road to Besse, is the Lac-de-Pavin, 3928 ft. above the sea, in the crater of an extinct volcano, but not full to the brim. It is 2625 ft. long, 2462 ft. wide, and 315 ft. deep, completely surrounded, excepting at the outlet, by vertical cliffs from 300 to 500 ft. high. Boats are let for sailing and fishing on this singular lake. At the S. end rises the Puy Montchal, 4629 ft. At the foot of Montchal, S. side, is the Creux-de-Sancy, a circular cavity 55 ft. deep, at the bottom of which a stream of water is seen, supposed to come from Lake Pavin.

3 m. E., or 13 from Mont-Dore by an excellent road, is Besse-en-Chandesse, 3399 ft., on the slope of a mountain. _Inns:_ Voyageurs; Commerce; pop. 2000, the wealthiest town in the neighbourhood, and excellent headquarters for visiting this region. It contains some 14th and 15th cent. houses and most of its old gates, one having the belfry or Tour du Beffroi built over it. In the centre of the town is the house Queen Marguerite de Navarre inhabited; now it is converted into shops and dwellings.

[Headnote: MUROLS.]

From Besse go 5 m. N. to Murols, 13 m. E. from Mont-Dore, on the highway between Mont-Dore and Issoire. The road to Murols discloses beautiful views of Limagne as it pa.s.ses Montredon, Chomeilles, Breuil, St. Victor, and Bessoles. As most of the houses in Murols (_Inn:_ Nierat, pop. 700) have been built of material taken from the castle, many have escutcheons and sculptured stones on their walls. On a cone of basalt, 3186 ft., overlooking the village, are the ruins of a formerly important castle, 12th or 13th cent., and favourite residence of the lords of Murols et d'Estaing. From the top of the repaired tower is a beautiful and extensive view, embracing Besse, St. Victor, Lake Pavin, the Chaudefour valley, Chambon with its lake, Varennes, the Dent-de-Marais, and Tartaret. 13 m. W. from Murols is Mont-Dore, pa.s.sing on the left the Puy du Tartaret, 2953 ft., Lake Chambon, 2625 ft. above the sea, considered one of the prettiest lakes in Auvergne.

A little farther W. is the village of Chambon, 40 ft. higher than the lake, pop. 1000, on the Couze and Surrain at the foot of a granite mountain.

The journey from Mont-Dore to the Pics de Sancy and Ferrand and back is 11 m.; but if it be prolonged round by Va.s.sivieres, Besse, and Murols the entire distance is 32 m.

[Headnote: SALON DU CAPUCIN. VALLeE D'ENFER.]

A very pleasant promenade is to the +Salon du Capucin+, recommended as well as the Salon de Mirabeau for the breathing of the air from the pine forest. If on foot, cross the suspension bridge, and having reached the Jubilee cross about 600 yards from Mont-Dore, take the road to the left which enters the forest, and after having ascended a few minutes, a stone to the right will be seen bearing the inscription: "Pet.i.t Chemin du Capucin," which take. Shortly after it divides, when take the left. At last the path enters a large open s.p.a.ce surrounded by beeches, where several roads meet. The road to the left goes to the Vallee d'Enfer, to the right to the Rigolet, and the road in front to the Salon, which is quite near. The path which divides the Salon into two parts leads up to the top of the Rocher du Capucin, 4807 ft. above the sea, about 2 m. S. from Mont-Dore, commanding a charming view. It owes its name to the detached pinnacle, like a monk's hood, called the Aiguille du Capucin, which is rather difficult to ascend.

To go to the +Vallee d'Enfer+ return to the open glade and take the Enfer path which leads to the valley by the Vallee Lacour, m. long, near the top of which, at the Rocher de Courlande, 5325 ft., is the opening where those on foot climb over to the Vallee d'Enfer; those on horseback have to pa.s.s round by Burens. The Vallee d'Enfer is an arid narrow gorge between naked volcanic cliffs traversed by vertical d.y.k.es. From the valley continue southwards to the Pic de Sancy, or return to Mont-Dore, 4 m. N.

[Headnote: HOTELS. BATHS. CHARGES.]

BOURBOULE.

8 m. from Laqueuille, surrounded by wooded mountains, in the valley of the Dordogne, is Bourboule, pop. 1600, 2796 ft. above the sea, or 606 ft. lower than Mont-Dore. The rapid increase of Bourboule is due to the excellence of its mineral waters, of the same nature as those of Mont-Dore, but richer in the chief ingredient to which they owe their especial virtue--the a.r.s.eniate of soda. The climate too is a little milder, and the valley of the Dordogne wider and more open than it is at Mont-Dore.

_Hotels._--Around the princ.i.p.al establishment, called the Etabliss.e.m.e.nt des Thermes, are the Grand Hotel; H. Bellon; Univers; Bains; Europe; Globe; etrangers; H. de l'Etabliss.e.m.e.nt; Paris; Sources. On the other side of the Dordogne, by the side of the Parc de Fenestre, are the Angleterre; France; Parc; Beausejour; and also the Casino, Theatre, and Gambling-rooms.

At the east end of the town, on the road to Mont-Dore, are the Poste; Bourboule; Helder; Louvre; Nice; Amba.s.sadeurs; Continental.

Abundance of furnished lodgings (Maisons Meublees) and villas to let.

The figure () indicates that the hotel is first-cla.s.s, with first-cla.s.s prices, which vary according to the month and the story in which the room is situated. From the 25th of June to the 10th of August the charge is from 11 to 15 frs. the day, which includes room and two meals with wine. Coffee or tea in the morning, 1 fr. extra.

Service, to 1 fr. per day. Candles, 3 frs. at end of season. From the 25th of May to the 25th of June, and from the 10th of August to the 30th of September, the charges are less. Intending visitors should bear this in mind in their correspondence with the hotel-keepers.

The other hotels should charge less; but unless the price be agreed upon beforehand it will be much the same.

The bath charges are rather complicated. There are three bathing-houses, of which the most important is the Etabliss.e.m.e.nt des Thermes, a very large, well-arranged, and handsome building by the side of the Dordogne, opposite the park, near the springs Fenestre and Plage. Behind it, and more hidden among houses, are the Etabliss.e.m.e.nt Chaussy and the Etabliss.e.m.e.nt Mabru, both under the same roof. A part of the latter establishment is portioned off for the indigent.

In the Etabliss.e.m.e.nt des Thermes a bath with linen, from 16th June to 31st August, 3 frs.; from 25th May to 15th June, and from the 1st to the 30th September, 2 frs.

In the Etabliss.e.m.e.nt Choussy the charges are fr. less than in the Thermes. In the Mabru they are fr. less than in the Choussy.

The pump-rooms of the Thermes and Choussy cost the season 10 frs., and in the indigent department of Mabru 5 frs.