The South of France-East Half Part 49

+Monuments.+

In the Piazza Carlo Emanuele II., a short way S. from Piazza Castello, is the monument to Camillo Cavour, by Dupre of Florence, for which he received 1200, contributed by the inhabitants of every part of Italy in 1872. The statues are in white marble, the tablets and friezes in bronze, and the pedestal in granite. The monument is tame and mystic.

Cavour, in an upright position, holds in his hand a scroll bearing the words, "libera chiesa in libero stato." (See p. 294.) The climate of Turin is more suitable for bronze than for marble statues. To the west is the Piazza S. Carlo, with a bronze monument to Emanuele Filiberto (see p. 293). Farther west, in the Piazza Solferino, is the remarkable, almost painful, bronze group representing Ferdinando di Savoia (brother of V. Emanuele II.) at the battle of Novara in 1848. When about to lead the charge on the Bicocca his horse fell, mortally wounded. The poor animal, on bended knees, with gaping mouth and outstretched neck, seems about to breathe its last in an agony of suffering.

A short way west from the Piazza Castello by the Via Palazzo di Citta is the Piazza del Palazzo di Citta, having on one side the Palazzo di Citta, or the Munic.i.p.ality buildings, designed by Lanfrachi, and erected in 1659. At the entrance to the Palazzo are the marble statues of the celebrated Prince Eugene and the Duke of Genoa, brother of King Victor Emanuel, and under the portico statues of Prince Thomas di Carignano and Victor Emanuel. In the centre of the square is a bronze group representing Count Verde (Amadeus VI.) over a fallen Saracen. Close to this square is the church of Corpus Domini, with the interior encrusted with beautiful marble, and ornamented with frescoes and gilding. From this the Via Milano leads towards the Piazza Em. Filiberto, pa.s.sing by on the left S. Domenico, and on the right the Basilica. In S. Domenico, in the first chapel to the right of the altar, is a picture of the Virgin by Guercino.

[Headnote: LA CONSOLATA.]

Near the Piazza Em. Filiberto, by the Via Giulio, is the church +La Consolata+, with an ugly square brick tower. It consists of three churches built at different periods. On the princ.i.p.al altar is a miracle-working image of the Virgin; while a great part of the adjoining walls is hung with pictures ill.u.s.trating the cures and deliverances effected by it. Two lovely kneeling figures, in the most precious Carrara marble, looking towards the altar, represent respectively Maria Theresa, queen of Carlo Alberto, and Maria Adelaide, queen of Vit.

Emanuele, dressed in the same way as they used to be when they attended worship every Sunday in this chapel. They both died in 1855. In the square outside, on a granite column, is a statue of the Virgin, erected in fulfilment of a vow when the cholera raged in 1835.

In the Piazza Savoia, near the Piazza dello Statuto, is an obelisk 72 ft. high, erected in 1854 to commemorate the abolition of the ecclesiastical courts. On the four sides are the names of the towns which contributed to the monument.

[Headnote: CEMETERY.]

Less than a mile from the Ponte delle Benne is the cemetery or Campo Santo of Turin. (See N.E. corner of plan.) It is badly kept and not worth visiting. The inner or new part is a little better.

A little to the W. of the P. Solferino, and parallel to it, is the citadel and the barracks of the Cernaia. In front of the entrance is the monument to Pietro Mico, who, to save the citadel from the enemy, sprang a mine at the cost of his own life.

[Headnote: LA SUPERGA.]

+La Superga.+

Leave by the steam tram starting from the Piazza Castello; the time-table is in the waiting-room, where the tickets are also sold half an hour before starting. As the train can take only a limited number, the tickets are generally all taken in the first 10 minutes. The tram runs down the Via Po, crosses the Ponte Vit. Emanuele I., pa.s.ses by the western end of the church, the "Great Mother of G.o.d," and descends by the left side of the Po to the Ca.s.sale station, whence the ascent commences by the rope and locomotive railway constructed by Agudio, and opened in 1884. The ascent takes 20 minutes, the length is 3500 yards, the average inclination 13%, and the greatest 20%. At the Superga station are waiting-rooms, and a few feet below them a commodious restaurant. On arriving at the station ascend by the road, right hand, for the Superga. The walk down the mountain is very pleasant, and it is probable that the pedestrian will fall in with some tram when on the main road to Turin.

The Superga is situated 4 m. N.E. from Turin, on a mountain 1420 ft.

above the Po, or 2146 ft. above the sea, and cost 100,000. It was commenced by Vittorio Amedeo II. in 1717, and finished in 1731, to fulfil a vow made by him on 7th September 1706, for the victory over the French at the battle of Turin, when the house of Savoy regained the duchy. The architect was Filippo Juvara.

Enter by door at the north side of the building, where the men will be found who conduct visitors over the church. Gratuity optional. The first hall shown contains small and indifferent portraits of all the popes.

Then down 27 large marble steps to the crypt. At the foot is a white marble group, St. Michael overcoming Satan. None of the monuments are worthy the name of royal mausoleums. The best are: in centre, Carlo Alberto, 1779-1849; at right hand end, Carlo Emanuele III., 1701-1773; towards left, Duke Ferdinando de Genova, a colossal white marble statue; at left end, Vittorio Amedeo II., the founder, 1666-1732. In an adjoining vault children under seven are buried.

[Headnote: VIEWS.]

From this ascend by 357 steps from floor of church to the gallery outside the lantern. A door about 80 steps up opens into the gallery round the interior of the octagonal dome, whence the church is well seen. The top of the lantern is 229 ft. above the pavement of the church.

The chief object for visiting the Superga is the splendid view from the outside gallery of the lantern. In one direction is the plain of Piedmont with the Po wandering across it; everywhere else the horizon is bounded by a vast chain of snowy Alps, with Monte Rosa on one side and Mont Blanc on the other.

[Headnote: LAMPREDE. WINES.]

Among the delicacies of Turin are the lamprede, thin eels from 5 to 8 inches long, caught in the Po. They are killed by being plunged into milk. The white truffles are also celebrated, and when cooked "a la Piedmontese" or "a la fonduta," and taken with a bottle of Asti wine, make most enjoyable dishes. The vermouth of Turin is an agreeable aperitive, and is taken before sitting down to table. The best wines of Piedmont are the Caluzo, a white wine; the Barolo, a dryish red wine with a taste of the soil; the Barbera, a strong red wine; and the Nebrolo. The Gressini are double baked bread in strips 18 inches long and a quarter of an inch thick. In the Italian houses a handful of them is put down to each cover at the dinner-table. They are made at very many places besides Turin; even at Cannes on the Riviera. A great deal of maccheroni (macaroni) is consumed in Italy. In Turin are important silk mills.

Turin to Cuneo, 54 m. S., by Cavallermaggiore (see p. 153). Turin to Genoa, 103 m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, and Novi (see p. 279). Turin to Savona, 91 m. S.E., by Carmagnola, Bra, Carru, and Ceva (see p. 183, and map p. 27). Turin to Florence, 291 m. S.E., by Asti, Alessandria, Piacenza, Parma, Modena, Bologna, and Pistoja (see p. 309, and map p. 199).

THE VALLEES VAUDOISES, OR THE VALLEYS OF THE WALDENSES.

(See accompanying Map.)

The Waldensian valleys are very beautiful, are drained by splendid trout-streams, and possess a rich variety of rare plants.

The chief town, Torre-Pellice (formerly called Torre-Luserna) is 34 miles S.W. from Turin by rail, pa.s.sing by Pinerolo, 23 m. S.W. from Turin, and 10 m. N.E. from Torre-Pellice. From Pinerolo a steam tram runs 12 m. N.W. up the valley of the Chisone to Perosa, the second Waldensian town in importance. Time, 1 hr. 30 min. The tram station is near the railway station.

Pinerolo is connected with Saluzzo by steam tram, 2 hrs. 20 min. S., 2 frs. 15 c. and 1 fr. 55 c., pa.s.sing Osasco and Cavour. This tram station is at some distance from the Pinerolo railway station.

The Italian steam trams run on single lines laid on one side only of the highroads. Some towns they traverse, while others they merely skirt.

They afford excellent opportunities for seeing the country, but run neither so quickly nor so smoothly as the railway trains.

Rail between Cuneo and Mondovi, 11 m. E. and 58 m. S. by rail from Turin. Mondovi, pop. 17,000, on the Ellero; _Inn:_ Tre Limoni d'Oro. On one side of the Ellero is the railway station, and on the other are the inn and town, built on the lower slopes of a wooded hill rising from the river. The Via San Agostino contains the best shops. On the top of the hill is another town nearly as large as Mondovi (see p. 184).

The country of the Italian Waldenses consists of parts of the valleys of Pellice, San Martino, and Perosa or Chisone, is about 20 m. long from W.

to E. by 13 broad, is divided into 15 parishes, exclusive of the isolated parish of Turin, and contains a population of about 25,000.

They have besides a thriving colony in Uruguay. Till Cavour in 1848 procured for Italy civil and religious liberty, the Waldenses were confined by law to their valleys; now, however, they have spread themselves over the best parts of Italy, while many emigrate every year to the United States and to Uruguay. Of late mills and manufactories have been established on their rivers, which has caused a large influx of Piedmontese workmen, so that many Waldensian towns and villages which up to 1848 were inhabited almost exclusively by Protestants have now a larger population of Romanists.

[Map: The Waldensian Valleys and the Pa.s.ses between France and Italy]

These valleys are very fertile, bearing luxuriant crops of maize, wheat, barley, potatoes, French beans, etc., intersected by long rows of vines on high trelliswork, and studded with mulberry, apricot, peach, apple, pear, and cherry trees, while at the base of the densely-wooded mountains which enclose them are walnut and chestnut trees. The only high mountain in the territory is Monte Meida.s.sa, 10,185 ft., between the valleys of the Pellice and the Po, which river has its source 6625 ft. above the sea among the snowy summits of Monte Viso, 12,607 ft., a short way south from Monte Meida.s.sa by either the Col dell' Agnello or the Col Traversette, 9680 ft.

[Headnote: WALDENSIAN DOCTRINES AND PERSECUTIONS.]

The Vaudois inhabited originally not only the valleys on the E. side of the Alps but also those of Louise, Embrun, and Barcelonnette on the French side (pp. 344, 345), and, as there was constant communication between them, French became the common language, as it is still in a great measure. They consider themselves a part of the Apostolic Church, which by its isolated position in the then almost inaccessible ravines had escaped the early innovations introduced by the church of Rome; albeit not altogether, for they admitted confession by contrite prayer to G.o.d and the mention aloud of their sins to a priest, the power of priests to bind and to loose, that sins were of two cla.s.ses, mortal and venial, and the efficacy of fasts and penance. At the Reformation all these were swept away, and the doctrines and church polity of Calvin adopted. The independent church of the Waldenses, or valley-people, existed about a century before the arrival of Pierre Valdo from Lyons in 1180. Their name is supposed to be derived from "valle densa,"

contracted into Vallenses, Valdenses, and finally Vaudois. The first serious persecution of the Italian Vaudois was begun at the instigation of Yolande, sister of Louis XI and wife of Amadee IX., Duke of Savoy. By her representation Innocent VIII. in 1487 fulminated against the Waldenses a bull of extermination. Whoever killed any of these heretics were to be absolved from promises they had made, property wrongly obtained by them was to be rendered legal, and they were to have a complete remission of all their sins. Persecution among the French Vaudois commenced in the 13th cent.

[Headnote: TORRE-PeLLICE.]

+Torre-Pellice+, pop. 5200, _Inn:_ H. de l'Ours, good and comfortable, is situated on the Pellice and its affluent the Angrogna, 34 m. S.W. by rail from Turin, 10 m. from Pinerolo, and 1 m. from the station of Luserna-San Giovanni, pop. of both places together, 4200. Luserna is a considerable town to the N. of the station. _Inn:_ Albergo del Belvedere. Opposite is San Giovanni, a large unfinished-looking village, with barracks, a "Tempio Evangelico," and several elementary Protestant schools.

Torre-Pellice is a thriving town in the midst of a fertile valley enclosed within most picturesque mountains. At the west end are the Waldensian church, the manse, the college, and the higher school for girls. At the other end of the town are the inn, the post and telegraph office, the Romanist church and schools, and up by the Angrogna the Baptist chapel and manse. On the rivers are cotton and flour mills, and dye and calico-printing works. These establishments have attracted many Piedmontese to the town, which, from this and other causes, have made the Romanist population more numerous than the Protestant.

The wine made in the valley of Pellice is princ.i.p.ally red, and is drunk in the second year. A beautiful walk extends up the valley of the Angrogna to Perosa, about 6 hrs. N. by the defile of Pra de Tor, 4360 ft., and the village of Pramollo with Waldensian chapel and schools.

Pop. of the district of Pramollo, 1350.

[Headnote: BOBBIO. MIRABOUC. COL DE LA CROIX.]

+Torre-Pellice to Mont Dauphin+ by Bobbio, Mirabouc, Les Granges des Pras, the Col de la Croix, La Monta, and Abries, 47 m. W., 16 to 17 hrs.

walking. Up to Bobbio, 2838 ft, 7 m. and 2 hrs. walking, pop. 1520, Tempio Evangelico, _Inns:_ Camoscio, etc., there is nothing particular.

Afterwards the valley gradually contracts till it becomes a mere gorge, having at the entrance the ruins of Fort Mirabouc. At Mirabouc, 4718 ft., the valley turns southward to the inn and custom-house station, 5683 ft., about 3 hrs. from Bobbio, where provisions and accommodation may be had for the night. From this commences the ascent of the Col, 7576 ft., 17 m. from Torre-Pellice and 30 from Mont Dauphin, commanding a splendid view of Monte Viso. The top (with an Hospice) is nearly level, and the descent by the French side easy. At La Chalp the track joins the char-a-banc road leading to Mont Dauphin by La Monta, Ristolas, Abries, and Guillestre. (For Mont Dauphin and Guillestre, see p. 344, and map p. 304.)

PINEROLO.

23 m. S.W. from Turin by rail and 10 m. NE. from Torre-Pellice is Pinerolo, 1237 ft., pop. 19,000. _Inns:_ *Couronne d'Or; Campana; Cannon d'Oro. A handsome but rather a straggling town, with a large Piazza d'Armi, a good promenade, several hospitals, and representatives of the chief Italian banks. It contains besides a public library, various colleges and schools, including one for cavalry and another for music.

The Waldenses have a chapel near the public garden, and a school for girls and another for boys. In the Via Sommeiller is a large seminary.

The Cathedral is a handsome building, served by a large staff of dignitaries. In the Piazzetta Santa Croce is the Italian Alpine Club.

_Cabs_--the course, 1 fr.; the hour, 1 fr. 75 c.; each successive half-hour, 1 fr.

[Headnote: PEROSA. COL D'ABRIeS.]