The Rough Guide To Amsterdam Part 3

One initial highlight as you stroll south is the handsome Art-Nouveau-meets-Art-Deco Marine Insurance building at no. 69 no. 69; others are the much earlier ca.n.a.l house at no. 83 no. 83 and the attractive stone mansion at and the attractive stone mansion at no. 91 no. 91. Across the street, at no. 92 no. 92, is the Hajenius cigar shop with its flashy gilt interior, while a prominent equestrian statue statue of Queen Wilhelmina marks the spot where the Rokin hits the ca.n.a.l system. Born in The Hague, of Queen Wilhelmina marks the spot where the Rokin hits the ca.n.a.l system. Born in The Hague, Wilhelmina Wilhelmina (18801962) came to the throne in 1890 and abdicated in favour of her daughter, Juliana, 58 years later a mammoth royal stint by any standard. After her retirement she wrote a memoir, (18801962) came to the throne in 1890 and abdicated in favour of her daughter, Juliana, 58 years later a mammoth royal stint by any standard. After her retirement she wrote a memoir, Lonely but not Alone Lonely but not Alone, which explored her strong religious beliefs, but her popularity was based on her determined resistance to the Germans in World War II, when she was the figurehead of the government-in-exile in London. Further south, beyond the Allard Pierson museum on the other side of the ca.n.a.l, nos. 141147 Oude Turfmarkt nos. 141147 Oude Turfmarkt are cla.s.sic seventeenth-century ca.n.a.l houses, graced by bottle- and spout-shaped gables. are cla.s.sic seventeenth-century ca.n.a.l houses, graced by bottle- and spout-shaped gables.

The Old Centre The Rokin and Kalverstraat The Rokin and Kalverstraat The Allard Pierson Museum Overlooking the ca.n.a.l, the solid Neocla.s.sical building at Oude Turfmarkt 127 used to be the headquarters of the Dutch central bank and is now the Allard Pierson Museum Allard Pierson Museum (TuesFri 10am5pm, Sat & Sun 15pm; 6.50; (TuesFri 10am5pm, Sat & Sun 15pm; 6.50; www.allardpiersonmuseum.nl), a good old-fashioned archeological museum spread over two floors, and labelled in Dutch and English. It's not a large museum, but it has a wide-ranging collection of finds retrieved from Egypt, Greece and Italy. The particular highlight is the museum's Greek pottery pottery with fine examples of both the black- and red-figured wares produced in the sixth and fifth centuries BC. Look out also for several ornate Roman with fine examples of both the black- and red-figured wares produced in the sixth and fifth centuries BC. Look out also for several ornate Roman sarcophagi sarcophagi, especially a whopper made of marble and decorated with Dionysian scenes, a very unusual wooden coffin from c.150 AD, which is partly carved in the shape of the man held within, and Etruscan funerary urns and carvings, including an amazingly precise statue of a baby in swaddling clothes. Of the Egyptian artefacts on the ground floor, a model of a ship and its crew from the Middle Kingdom stands out another funerary object, used to transport the soul of the dead to the afterlife.

The Old Centre The Rokin and Kalverstraat The Rokin and Kalverstraat Hotel Doelen The Hotel de l'Europe Hotel de l'Europe on Nieuwe Doelenstraat is one of the city's most luxurious and well-appointed places to stay, although the on Nieuwe Doelenstraat is one of the city's most luxurious and well-appointed places to stay, although the Hotel Doelen Hotel Doelen next door is perhaps of more historic interest, incorporating as it does the Kloveniers Tower, once the headquarters and meeting place of the company Rembrandt depicted in next door is perhaps of more historic interest, incorporating as it does the Kloveniers Tower, once the headquarters and meeting place of the company Rembrandt depicted in The Night Watch The Night Watch. No one knows for sure whether he painted The Night Watch The Night Watch here, but it certainly hung in the building at one time, and if you ask nicely in reception you can stroll up to see where it was, although despite the tour groups that regularly trundle through there's not much to look at beyond a crumbling red-brick wall and a bad photo of the painting. here, but it certainly hung in the building at one time, and if you ask nicely in reception you can stroll up to see where it was, although despite the tour groups that regularly trundle through there's not much to look at beyond a crumbling red-brick wall and a bad photo of the painting.

The Old Centre The Rokin and Kalverstraat The Rokin and Kalverstraat Kalverstraat Running parallel to the Rokin to the west, the pedestrianized shopping street of Kalverstraat Kalverstraat curves north to Dam Square. The street has been a commercial centre since medieval times, when it was used as a calf market, and it was also here, in 1345, that the city witnessed the Miracle of the unburnable Host (see " curves north to Dam Square. The street has been a commercial centre since medieval times, when it was used as a calf market, and it was also here, in 1345, that the city witnessed the Miracle of the unburnable Host (see "The Oude Kerk"), and the street became a route for pilgrims. Kalverstraat really could be any European shopping street, but if you want to shop, and you're not looking for designer labels, this is the place to come.

The Old Centre The Rokin and Kalverstraat The Rokin and Kalverstraat The Begijnhof Just off Kalverstraat, on Gedempte Begijnensloot, the Begijnhof Begijnhof (daily 9am5pm; free; (daily 9am5pm; free; www.begijnhofamsterdam.nl) consists of a huddle of immaculately maintained old houses looking onto a central green, their backs to the outside world; you can also sneak in here from the gate on the Spui the Spui. The Begijnhof was founded in the fourteenth century as a home for the Beguines members of a Catholic sisterhood living as nuns, but without vows and with the right to return to the secular world (see "Beguinages"). The original medieval complex comprised a series of humble brick cottages, but these were mostly replaced by the larger, grander houses of today shortly after the Reformation, though the secretive, enclosed design survived. However, a couple of pre-Reformation buildings do remain, including the Houten Huys Houten Huys, at no. 34, whose wooden facade dates from 1477, the oldest in Amsterdam and erected before the city forbade the construction of timber houses as an essential precaution against fire. The Engelse Kerk Engelse Kerk (English Reformed Church), which takes up one side of the Begijnhof, is of medieval construction too, but it was taken from the Beguines and given to Amsterdam's English community during the Reformation. Plain and unadorned, the church is of interest for its carefully worked pulpit panels, several of which were designed by a youthful (English Reformed Church), which takes up one side of the Begijnhof, is of medieval construction too, but it was taken from the Beguines and given to Amsterdam's English community during the Reformation. Plain and unadorned, the church is of interest for its carefully worked pulpit panels, several of which were designed by a youthful Piet Mondriaan Piet Mondriaan (18721944), the leading De Stijl artist although to see them you'll have to attend one of its services on Sundays at 10.30am. After they had lost their church, and in keeping with the terms of the (18721944), the leading De Stijl artist although to see them you'll have to attend one of its services on Sundays at 10.30am. After they had lost their church, and in keeping with the terms of the Alteratie Alteratie(see "The formation of the United Provinces"), the Beguines were allowed to celebrate Ma.s.s inconspicuously in the clandestine Catholic Begijnhofkapel Begijnhofkapel (Mon 16.30pm, TuesFri 9am6.30pm, Sat & Sun 9am6pm; free), which they established in the house opposite their old church. It's still used today, a homely little place with some terribly sentimental religious paintings, one of which to the left of the high altar depicts the Miracle of the unburnable Host, still celebrated at (Mon 16.30pm, TuesFri 9am6.30pm, Sat & Sun 9am6pm; free), which they established in the house opposite their old church. It's still used today, a homely little place with some terribly sentimental religious paintings, one of which to the left of the high altar depicts the Miracle of the unburnable Host, still celebrated at the Oude Kerk the Oude Kerk.

[image]

The Begijnhof The Old Centre The Rokin and Kalverstraat The Rokin and Kalverstraat The Begijnhof The Begijnhof Beguinages BeguinagesOne result of the urbanization of the Low Countries from the twelfth century onwards was the establishment of beguinages beguinages ( (begijnhoven in Dutch, in Dutch, beguinages beguinages in French) in almost every city and town. These were semi-secluded communities, where widows and unmarried women the in French) in almost every city and town. These were semi-secluded communities, where widows and unmarried women the Beguines Beguines ( (Begijns) lived together, the better to do pious acts, especially caring for the sick. In construction construction, beguinages follow the same general plan with several streets of whitewashed, terraced, brick cottages hidden away behind walls and gates and surrounding a central garden and chapel. Beguine communities Beguine communities were different from convents in so far as the inhabitants did not have to take vows and had the right to return to the secular world if they chose. In the Netherlands, the Beguine movement pretty much died out with the Reformation. were different from convents in so far as the inhabitants did not have to take vows and had the right to return to the secular world if they chose. In the Netherlands, the Beguine movement pretty much died out with the Reformation.

The Old Centre The Rokin and Kalverstraat The Rokin and Kalverstraat The Amsterdams Historisch Museum As you emerge from the east side of the Begijnhof, turn left onto narrow Gedempte Begijnensloot and it's 100m or so to the Schuttersgalerij Schuttersgalerij the Civic Guard Gallery. Here, an a.s.sortment of huge group portraits of the the Civic Guard Gallery. Here, an a.s.sortment of huge group portraits of the Amsterdam militia Amsterdam militia, ranging from serious-minded paintings of the 1540s through to lighter affairs from the seventeenth century, is displayed for free in a gla.s.sed-in pa.s.sageway. They are interesting paintings the pick are those by Nicolaes Pickenoy Nicolaes Pickenoy (15881650) but the finest militia painting by a long chalk, Rembrandt's (15881650) but the finest militia painting by a long chalk, Rembrandt's The Night Watch The Night Watch, is exhibited in the Rijksmuseum the Rijksmuseum.

The Schuttersgalerij is part of the Amsterdams Historisch Museum Amsterdams Historisch Museum (entrances at Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357 & Kalverstraat 92, MonFri 10am5pm, Sat & Sun 11am5pm; 10; (entrances at Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357 & Kalverstraat 92, MonFri 10am5pm, Sat & Sun 11am5pm; 10; www.ahm.nl), which occupies the smartly restored but rambling seventeenth-century buildings of the munic.i.p.al orphanage. The museum follows the city's development with a scattering of artefacts and a host of paintings from the thirteenth century onwards; the building is full of levels and corridors, but the arrows lead you through in a reasonably coherent way, and the labelling is in English as well as Dutch.

Maps and paintings punctuate the galleries and record the growth of the city, starting with an electronic map showing the city's evolution from the draining of the Amsel in 1274 to the present day. Beyond here are a number of old views of Amsterdam old views of Amsterdam back before the Golden Age, of which Cornelis Anthonisz's 1538 back before the Golden Age, of which Cornelis Anthonisz's 1538 Bird's Eye View of Amsterdam Bird's Eye View of Amsterdam in Room 4, the oldest surviving plan of the city, stands out. There are paintings ill.u.s.trating the country's former maritime prowess in Room 5, and in Room 6 Berckheyde's "depiction" of the new town hall hangs opposite a model of the building from 1648, made by the architect and slightly different from the finished article. There are also views of Dam Square in the early seventeenth century showing both the old and new town hall, while Room 7 has a depiction of the East India Company's docks in 1696, along with a scale model of the same. Room 10 examines the paternalism of the city's merchant oligarchy, with paintings depicting the regents of several orphanages, self-contented bourgeoisie in the company of the grateful poor, notably Pickenoy's picture of the Rapshuis and Van der Voort's depiction of the Spinhuis, as well as Bartholomew van der Helst's in Room 4, the oldest surviving plan of the city, stands out. There are paintings ill.u.s.trating the country's former maritime prowess in Room 5, and in Room 6 Berckheyde's "depiction" of the new town hall hangs opposite a model of the building from 1648, made by the architect and slightly different from the finished article. There are also views of Dam Square in the early seventeenth century showing both the old and new town hall, while Room 7 has a depiction of the East India Company's docks in 1696, along with a scale model of the same. Room 10 examines the paternalism of the city's merchant oligarchy, with paintings depicting the regents of several orphanages, self-contented bourgeoisie in the company of the grateful poor, notably Pickenoy's picture of the Rapshuis and Van der Voort's depiction of the Spinhuis, as well as Bartholomew van der Helst's Governors and Governesses of the Spinhuis Governors and Governesses of the Spinhuis in the Schuttergalerij outside, which captures both the sternness of the inst.i.tution (see " in the Schuttergalerij outside, which captures both the sternness of the inst.i.tution (see "Oudezijds Achterburgwal") and its daily routine going on behind them. Across the Schuttergalerij, Room 11 is distinguished by two paintings of the surgeons' guild at work look out for Rembrandt Rembrandt's wonderful, if gruesome, Anatomy Lesson of Dr Jan Deijman Anatomy Lesson of Dr Jan Deijman and the later and the later Anatomy Lesson of Dr William Roell Anatomy Lesson of Dr William Roell, from 1728.

[image]

Painting at the Amsterdams Historisch Museum The museum doesn't just focus on the Golden Age, but dutifully and effectively records the lives of well-to-do Amsterdammers in the eighteenth century (when the city fancied itself as among the most refined and cultured centres of Europe), the nineteenth century, and right up to the modern era modern era, starting with Breitner's Dam Square Dam Square of 1898 and Jacob Maris's view of the of 1898 and Jacob Maris's view of the Schreierstoren Schreierstoren. There is an inevitable focus on the war years and the n.a.z.i occupation, including film footage of the city's liberation. Postwar material includes displays on the CoBrA CoBrA art movement (see " art movement (see "Amsterdam galleries: a hit list") and Karel Appel's murals for the town hall (now decorating the city's Grand Hotel Grand Hotel restaurant), the development of Schiphol Airport, the liberalization of dope and the rise of coffeeshops, and even a mock-up of an old brown cafe. restaurant), the development of Schiphol Airport, the liberalization of dope and the rise of coffeeshops, and even a mock-up of an old brown cafe.

The Old Centre The Rokin and Kalverstraat The Rokin and Kalverstraat eiligeweg A little further up Kalverstraat, workaday Heiligeweg Heiligeweg, or "Holy Way", was once part of a much longer route used by pilgrims heading into Amsterdam, and is still used for part of the Stille Omgang (Silent Procession). Every other religious reference disappeared centuries ago, but there is one interesting edifice here: the fanciful gateway of the old Rasphuis Rasphuis (House of Correction) that now fronts a shopping mall at the foot of Voetboogstraat. The gateway is surmounted by a sculpture of a woman punishing two criminals chained at her sides above the single word "Castigatio" (punishment). Beneath is a carving by (House of Correction) that now fronts a shopping mall at the foot of Voetboogstraat. The gateway is surmounted by a sculpture of a woman punishing two criminals chained at her sides above the single word "Castigatio" (punishment). Beneath is a carving by Hendrick de Keyser Hendrick de Keyser (15651621), showing wolves and lions cringing before the whip; the inscription reads: "It is a virtue to subdue those before whom all go in dread." (15651621), showing wolves and lions cringing before the whip; the inscription reads: "It is a virtue to subdue those before whom all go in dread."

The Old Centre The Red Light District The whole area to the east of Damrak, between Warmoesstraat, Nieuwmarkt and Damstraat, is the Red Light District Red Light District, known locally as "De Wallen" ("The Walls") on account of the series of low brick walls that contain its ca.n.a.ls. The district stretches across the two narrow ca.n.a.ls that marked the eastern part of medieval Amsterdam, Oudezijds Voorburgwal Oudezijds Voorburgwal and and Oudezijds Achterburgwal Oudezijds Achterburgwal, with the far ca.n.a.l of Kloveniersburgwal Kloveniersburgwal forming its eastern boundary. The area is pretty seedy, although the legalized prost.i.tution here has long been one of the city's most distinctive draws. It wasn't always so; the handsome facades of Oudezijds Voorburgwal in particular recall ritzier days, when this was one of the wealthiest parts of the city, richly earning its nickname the "Velvet Ca.n.a.l". The two ca.n.a.ls, with their narrow connecting pa.s.sages, are thronged with " forming its eastern boundary. The area is pretty seedy, although the legalized prost.i.tution here has long been one of the city's most distinctive draws. It wasn't always so; the handsome facades of Oudezijds Voorburgwal in particular recall ritzier days, when this was one of the wealthiest parts of the city, richly earning its nickname the "Velvet Ca.n.a.l". The two ca.n.a.ls, with their narrow connecting pa.s.sages, are thronged with "window brothels" and at busy times the on-street haggling over the price of various s.e.x acts is drowned out by a surprisingly festive atmosphere entire families grinning more or less amiably at the women in the windows or discussing the specifications (and feasibility) of the s.e.x toys in the shops. Another feature is the hawkers who line the streets touting the peep shows and "live s.e.x" within, though some of the more prominent establishments have been closed down recently by a council intent on cleaning up the area (see "Commercial s.e.x in Amsterdam").

There is an undertow to the district that's not particularly pleasant, and with the added delights of the drug addicts that hang around during the day you might not want to spend any longer here than is necessary. And don't even think about taking a picture of a "window brothel" unless you're prepared for some major grief from the camera-shy prost.i.tutes, or their pimps. However, it's certainly an interesting district to visit, and it does contain two prime attractions, the medieval Oude Kerk Oude Kerk and the clandestine and the clandestine Amstelkring Amstelkring Catholic church. Catholic church.

The Old Centre The Red Light District The Red Light District Warmoesstraat Soliciting hasn't always been the princ.i.p.al activity on sleazy Warmoesstraat Warmoesstraat. It was once one of the city's most fashionable streets, home to Holland's foremost poet, Joost van den Vondel Joost van den Vondel (15871679), who ran his hosiery business from no. 110 in between writing and hobn.o.bbing with the Amsterdam elite. Van den Vondel was a kind of Dutch Shakespeare; his (15871679), who ran his hosiery business from no. 110 in between writing and hobn.o.bbing with the Amsterdam elite. Van den Vondel was a kind of Dutch Shakespeare; his Gijsbrecht van Amstel Gijsbrecht van Amstel, a celebration of Amsterdam during its Golden Age, is one of the cla.s.sics of Dutch literature, and he wrote regular, if ponderous, official verses, including well over a thousand lines on the inauguration of the town hall. Vondel had more than his share of hard luck too; his son frittered away the modest family fortune and he lived out his last few years as doorkeeper of the p.a.w.nshop on Oudezijds Voorburgwal known as "Ome Jan" (see "Oudezijds Voorburgwal"), dying of hypothermia at what was then the remarkable age of 92. Witty to the end, his own suggested epitaph ran: "Here lies Vondel, your grief withhold, for he hath suffered death from cold". His name lives on most prominently in the city's largest park, the Vondelpark the Vondelpark, which was named after him.

[image]

A Red Light District ca.n.a.l The Old Centre The Red Light District The Red Light District The Prost.i.tution Information Centre Just off Warmoesstraat on Oude Kerkplein, a small bronze statue statue of a woman waiting in a window highlights the main business around here, and a number of brothels ring the square, near which is the of a woman waiting in a window highlights the main business around here, and a number of brothels ring the square, near which is the Prost.i.tution Information Centre Prost.i.tution Information Centre, at Enge Kerksteeg 3, right by the Oude Kerk (Wed & Fri 68pm, Sat noon7pm; 020/420 7328, www.pic-amsterdam.com). This is a legally recognized stichting stichting or charitable foundation that was set up in 1994 by an ex-prost.i.tute, Mariska Majoor, to provide prost.i.tutes, their clients and visitors with clear, dispa.s.sionate information about prost.i.tution. Its shop, "Wallenwinkel", sells books and pamphlets, and souvenirs of the Red Light District postcards, fridge magnets, T-shirts and the like and it runs hour-long or charitable foundation that was set up in 1994 by an ex-prost.i.tute, Mariska Majoor, to provide prost.i.tutes, their clients and visitors with clear, dispa.s.sionate information about prost.i.tution. Its shop, "Wallenwinkel", sells books and pamphlets, and souvenirs of the Red Light District postcards, fridge magnets, T-shirts and the like and it runs hour-long tours tours of the Red Light District for 12.50 a person (Sat at 5pm). All in all, it does a decent job of ridding prost.i.tution of its seedy mystique. of the Red Light District for 12.50 a person (Sat at 5pm). All in all, it does a decent job of ridding prost.i.tution of its seedy mystique.

The Old Centre The Red Light District The Red Light District The Oude Kerk Bang in the middle of the Red Light District is Amsterdam's most appealing church, the Oude Kerk Oude Kerk (MonSat 11am5pm, Sun 15pm; 5; (MonSat 11am5pm, Sun 15pm; 5; www.oudekerk.nl), an attractive Gothic structure with high-pitched gables and finely worked lancet windows. There's been a church on this site since the middle of the thirteenth century, but most of the present building dates from a century later, funded by the pilgrims who came here in their hundreds following a widely publicized miracle miracle. The story goes that, in 1345, a dying man regurgitated the Host he had received here at Communion, and when it was thrown on the fire afterwards, it did not burn. The unburnable Host was placed in a chest and installed in a long-lost chapel somewhere off Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, before finally being transferred to the Oude Kerk a few years later. It disappeared during the Reformation, but to this day thousands of the faithful still come to take part in the annual Stille Omgang Stille Omgang, a silent nocturnal procession terminating at the Oude Kerk and held in mid-March. The church is also regularly used for art displays and concerts.

The Protestants cleared the church of almost all its ecclesiastical tackle during the Reformation, but its largely bare interior interior does hold several interesting features. These include some folksy misericords, a few faded vault paintings recovered from beneath layers of whitewash in the 1950s, and the unadorned memorial tablet of does hold several interesting features. These include some folksy misericords, a few faded vault paintings recovered from beneath layers of whitewash in the 1950s, and the unadorned memorial tablet of Rembrandt Rembrandt's first wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh, beneath the smaller of the two organs. Much more diverting, however, are the three beautifully coloured stained-gla.s.s windows stained-gla.s.s windows beside the ambulatory in what was once the Chapel of Our Lady. Dating from the 1550s, all three depict religious scenes from left to right: the Annunciation, the Adoration of the Shepherds and the a.s.sumption of the Virgin and each is set above its respective donors. The characters are shown in cla.s.sical gear with togas and sandals and the buildings in the background are firmly cla.s.sical too, reflecting both artistic fashion and a belief that Greco-Roman detail was historically accurate. A fourth, rather different stained-gla.s.s window is located on the other side of the ambulatory. A secular piece of 1655, it features the Spanish king Philip IV ceding independence to a representative of the United Provinces (the Netherlands) under the terms of the Treaty of Munster of 1648, which wrapped up the Thirty Years' War. Like the earlier windows, the architectural backdrop is cla.s.sical, but here it's to emphasize the dignity of the proceedings and the king and the Dutch emissaries wear contemporary clothes. beside the ambulatory in what was once the Chapel of Our Lady. Dating from the 1550s, all three depict religious scenes from left to right: the Annunciation, the Adoration of the Shepherds and the a.s.sumption of the Virgin and each is set above its respective donors. The characters are shown in cla.s.sical gear with togas and sandals and the buildings in the background are firmly cla.s.sical too, reflecting both artistic fashion and a belief that Greco-Roman detail was historically accurate. A fourth, rather different stained-gla.s.s window is located on the other side of the ambulatory. A secular piece of 1655, it features the Spanish king Philip IV ceding independence to a representative of the United Provinces (the Netherlands) under the terms of the Treaty of Munster of 1648, which wrapped up the Thirty Years' War. Like the earlier windows, the architectural backdrop is cla.s.sical, but here it's to emphasize the dignity of the proceedings and the king and the Dutch emissaries wear contemporary clothes.

Outside, the Oude Kerk tower tower is open weekends between April and September (15pm; 5) and offers predictably great views in a city with relatively few such opportunities. is open weekends between April and September (15pm; 5) and offers predictably great views in a city with relatively few such opportunities.

The Old Centre The Red Light District The Red Light District The Oude Kerk The Oude Kerk Commercial s.e.x in Amsterdam Commercial s.e.x in AmsterdamDeveloped in the 1960s, the Netherlands' and especially Amsterdam's liberal approach to social policy has had several unforeseen consequences, the most dramatic being its international reputation as a centre for both drugs and prost.i.tution prost.i.tution. However, the tackiness of the Red Light District is just the surface sheen on what has been a serious attempt to address the reality of s.e.x for sale, and to integrate this within a normal, ordered society. In Dutch law, prost.i.tution has long been legal, but the state had always drawn the line at brothels and soliciting in public. The difficulties this created for the police were legion, so finally, in 1996, a special soliciting zone soliciting zone was established and a couple of years later was established and a couple of years later brothels brothels were legalized in the hope that together these changes would bring a degree of stability to the s.e.x industry. The authorities were particularly keen to get a grip on the use of illegal immigrants as prost.i.tutes and also to alleviate the problem of numbers. were legalized in the hope that together these changes would bring a degree of stability to the s.e.x industry. The authorities were particularly keen to get a grip on the use of illegal immigrants as prost.i.tutes and also to alleviate the problem of numbers.This legislation is partly the result of a long and determined campaign by the prost.i.tutes' trade union, De Rode Draad De Rode Draad ("The Red Thread"), which has improved the lot of its members by setting up new health insurance and pension schemes and generally fighting for regular employment rights for prost.i.tutes. Whether this has happened or not is debatable: the number of "window brothels" is limited, so a significant group of women ply their trade illicitly in bars and hotels. There are still lots of illegal immigrants in the Red Light District, and lots of pimps too. The ("The Red Thread"), which has improved the lot of its members by setting up new health insurance and pension schemes and generally fighting for regular employment rights for prost.i.tutes. Whether this has happened or not is debatable: the number of "window brothels" is limited, so a significant group of women ply their trade illicitly in bars and hotels. There are still lots of illegal immigrants in the Red Light District, and lots of pimps too. The windows windows, which are rented out for upwards of 100 a day, are less easy to control than registered brothels, and at least half of the District's prost.i.tutes hand over some of their earnings to a pimp, who will usually be Dutch and often an ex-boyfriend.The city has taken action over the past couple of years to crack down not only on this but also on the number of outlets in the Red Light District, buying up some of the buildings itself and enouraging initiatives like Redlight Fashion Amsterdam, in which young fashion designers have exhibited their clothes in some of the windows. Some of the clubs have closed too, and despite dissent from De Rode Draad, the PIC and the pressure group Platform 1010 (named after the area postcode), it seems likely that the number of s.e.xworkers here will diminish over the next few years, and the district may begin to take on a different, perhaps less sleazy, complexion.

The Old Centre The Red Light District The Red Light District Oudezijds Voorburgwal The front of the Oude Kerk overlooks the northern reaches of Oudezijds Voorburgwal Oudezijds Voorburgwal, whose imposing ca.n.a.lside houses are a reminder of its prosperous, seventeenth-century heyday. The bottom end of the ca.n.a.l and in particular its last bridge is perhaps the Red Light District's busiest and seediest intersection, but walk for five minutes and you leave most of this behind; indeed in its upper reaches, towards the University, it's as pretty, unspoiled and historic as anywhere in the city. Through an ornate gateway at Oudezijds Voorburgwal 231 is the Agnietenkapel Agnietenkapel (currently under restoration), originally part of a Catholic convent, but now owned by the university. Upstairs, the chapel has a good-looking, first-floor auditorium dating from the fifteenth century, formerly used for temporary exhibitions devoted to the university's history. Roughly opposite, just over the footbridge, the large brick and stone-trimmed building at Oudezijds Voorburgwal 302 has been known as " (currently under restoration), originally part of a Catholic convent, but now owned by the university. Upstairs, the chapel has a good-looking, first-floor auditorium dating from the fifteenth century, formerly used for temporary exhibitions devoted to the university's history. Roughly opposite, just over the footbridge, the large brick and stone-trimmed building at Oudezijds Voorburgwal 302 has been known as "Ome Jan" ("Uncle John's") ever since the days when it was central Amsterdam's p.a.w.nshop. The poet Vondel Vondel(see "Warmoesstraat") ended his days working here, and a short verse above the fancy stone entranceway, which comes complete with the city's coat of arms, extols the virtues of the p.a.w.nshop and the evils of usury. From "Ome Jan", it's a couple of hundred metres to the southern end of Oudezijds Voorburgwal, where the Mok.u.m Mok.u.m art shop (see " art shop (see "Amsterdam's commercial art galleries") uses the old Jewish nickname for the city.

The Old Centre The Red Light District The Red Light District The Amstelkring Situated at the northern end of the ca.n.a.l, Oudezijds Voorburgwal's main sight is the Amstelkring Amstelkring, OZ Voorburgwal 40 (MonSat 10am5pm, Sun 15pm; 7; www.museumamstelkring.nl), which was momentarily the city's princ.i.p.al Catholic place of worship and is now one of Amsterdam's most enjoyable museums. Despite the reformation of 1578, the new regime treated its Catholics well, broadly speaking commercial pragmatism has always outweighed religious zeal here but there was a degree of discrimination; Catholic churches were recycled for Protestant use and their members no longer allowed to practise openly. The result was an eccentric compromise; Catholics were allowed to hold services in any private building providing that the exterior revealed no sign of their activities hence the development of the city's clandestine churches clandestine churches ( (schuilkerken), among which the Amstelkring is the only one to have survived intact. Amstelkring, meaning "Amstel Circle", is the name of the group of nineteenth-century historians who saved the building from demolition.

The Amstelkring, more properly Ons Lieve Heer Op Solder ("Our Dear Lord in the Attic"), occupies the loft of a wealthy merchant's house and is perfectly delightful, with a narrow nave nave skilfully shoehorned into the available s.p.a.ce. Flanked by elegant balconies, the nave has an ornately carved organ at one end and a mock-marble high altar, decorated with Jacob de Wit's mawkish skilfully shoehorned into the available s.p.a.ce. Flanked by elegant balconies, the nave has an ornately carved organ at one end and a mock-marble high altar, decorated with Jacob de Wit's mawkish Baptism of Christ Baptism of Christ, at the other. Even the patron of the church, one Jan Hartman, clearly had doubts about de Wit's efforts the two spares he procured just in case are now displayed behind the altar. The rest of the house has been left untouched, its original furnishings reminiscent of interiors by Vermeer or de Hooch.

The Old Centre The Red Light District The Red Light District The Zeedijk You can cut through from the top end of OZ Voorburgwal to the end of the Zeedijk Zeedijk, which was originally just that a d.y.k.e to hold back the sea and is now a street which girdles the northern end of the Red Light District. A couple of decades ago this narrow thoroughfare was the haunt of drug addicts, and very much a no-go area at night. But it's been spruced up and now forms a lively route from Stationsplein through to Nieuwmarkt, on the eastern edge of the Red Light District, as well as being the main hub of Amsterdam's small but vibrant Chinatown. Its seaward end is home to a couple of the oldest bars in the city, and the jazz trumpeter Chet Baker Chet Baker famously died here in 1988, when he either fell or threw himself out of the window of the famously died here in 1988, when he either fell or threw himself out of the window of the Prins Hendrik Hotel Prins Hendrik Hotel an event remembered by an evocative plaque of the man in full blow. Further down, there are any number of Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese foodie treats, as well as the an event remembered by an evocative plaque of the man in full blow. Further down, there are any number of Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese foodie treats, as well as the Fo Guang Shan He Hua Temple Fo Guang Shan He Hua Temple, on the right at Zeedijk 106, just 100m or so short of Nieuwmarkt (TuesSun 105pm) a Buddhist temple heavy with the smell of incense and sounds of chanting. There's not much to see here but for a small donation you can pick your own ready-made dharma out of a box.

The Old Centre The Red Light District The Red Light District Oudezijds Achterburgwal A block across from OZ Voorburgwal, Oudezijds Achterburgwal Oudezijds Achterburgwal is another pretty ca.n.a.l, but like its neighbour long despoiled, at least in its lower reaches, by Red Light sleaze. Those after just a taster of this should drop by the popular is another pretty ca.n.a.l, but like its neighbour long despoiled, at least in its lower reaches, by Red Light sleaze. Those after just a taster of this should drop by the popular Erotic Museum Erotic Museum (daily 11am1am; 5), with its four floors of Victorian p.o.r.n, statues and drawings, mock-ups of prost.i.tutes' rooms, reels of cartoon p.o.r.n featuring Sleeping Beauty and Snow White, and a bondage room at the top all good fun, and in a way the perfect topic for the location, though it's debatable as to how erotic it really is. (daily 11am1am; 5), with its four floors of Victorian p.o.r.n, statues and drawings, mock-ups of prost.i.tutes' rooms, reels of cartoon p.o.r.n featuring Sleeping Beauty and Snow White, and a bondage room at the top all good fun, and in a way the perfect topic for the location, though it's debatable as to how erotic it really is.

To the south is the Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum at Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 (daily 10am10pm; 7; at Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 (daily 10am10pm; 7; www.hashmuseum.com), the first and most established of a number of dope "museums" along this stretch. As well as featuring displays on the various types of dope and numerous ways to smoke it, the museum has an indoor marijuana garden, samples of textiles and paper made with hemp, and pamphlets explaining the medicinal properties of cannabis. There's also a shop selling pipes, books, videos and plenty of souvenirs. Amsterdam's reliance on imported dope ended in the late 1980s with the emergence of hydroponic growing techniques, whereby marijuana and in particular a reddish variety bred in America, called "skunk" was able to flourish under artificial lights without water. Nowadays over half the dope sold in the city's coffeeshops is grown in the Netherlands, and this place is positively evangelical about how to join in.

Across the ca.n.a.l, next door to Oudezijds Achterburgwal 185, at Spinhuissteeg 1, the Spinhuis Spinhuis was once a house of correction for "fallen women", who were put to work here on the looms and spinning wheels. Curiously, workhouses like this used to figure on tourist itineraries; for a small fee the public was allowed to watch the women at work, and at carnival times admission was free and large crowds came to jeer and mock. The justification for this was that shame was supposed to be part of the reforming process, but in fact the munic.i.p.ality unofficially tolerated brothels and the incarcerated women had simply been singled out for exemplary punishment. The Spinhuis has been turned into offices, but the old front door has survived intact, with an inscription by the seventeenth-century Dutch poet Pieter Cornelisz Hooft: "Cry not, for I exact no vengeance for wrong but to force you to be good. My hand is stern but my heart is kind." was once a house of correction for "fallen women", who were put to work here on the looms and spinning wheels. Curiously, workhouses like this used to figure on tourist itineraries; for a small fee the public was allowed to watch the women at work, and at carnival times admission was free and large crowds came to jeer and mock. The justification for this was that shame was supposed to be part of the reforming process, but in fact the munic.i.p.ality unofficially tolerated brothels and the incarcerated women had simply been singled out for exemplary punishment. The Spinhuis has been turned into offices, but the old front door has survived intact, with an inscription by the seventeenth-century Dutch poet Pieter Cornelisz Hooft: "Cry not, for I exact no vengeance for wrong but to force you to be good. My hand is stern but my heart is kind."

On the other side of the ca.n.a.l, the triangular parcel of land at the southern end of Oudezijds Achterburgwal is packed with university buildings, mostly modern or nineteenth-century structures built in the vernacular Dutch style. Together they form a pleasant urban ensemble, but the early seventeenth-century step-gabled Huis op de Drie Grachten Huis op de Drie Grachten ("House on the Three Ca.n.a.ls"), with its red shutters and mullion windows, stands out, sitting prettily on the corner of Oudezijds Achterburgwal and Oudezijds Voorburgwal. ("House on the Three Ca.n.a.ls"), with its red shutters and mullion windows, stands out, sitting prettily on the corner of Oudezijds Achterburgwal and Oudezijds Voorburgwal.

The Old Centre The Red Light District The Red Light District Oudezijds Achterburgwal Oudezijds Achterburgwal Red Light District trouble Red Light District troubleThe police estimate that there are around a thousand hard-drug users in Amsterdam, who, as they put it, "cause nuisance", and there remain a few groups of drug addicts drug addicts who hang around on the northern edge of the Red Light District. They are unlikely to molest strangers, but can still be a threatening presence. In fairness, the police have done their best to clean things up, and have dramatically improved the situation on the Zeedijk and Nieuwmarkt, which were once notorious for hard drugs, and at the ca.n.a.l bridge on Oude Hoogstraat, formerly nicknamed the "Pillenbrug" ("Pill Bridge"). Nonetheless, keep a close eye on your bag and wallet the area is notorious for petty thievery. who hang around on the northern edge of the Red Light District. They are unlikely to molest strangers, but can still be a threatening presence. In fairness, the police have done their best to clean things up, and have dramatically improved the situation on the Zeedijk and Nieuwmarkt, which were once notorious for hard drugs, and at the ca.n.a.l bridge on Oude Hoogstraat, formerly nicknamed the "Pillenbrug" ("Pill Bridge"). Nonetheless, keep a close eye on your bag and wallet the area is notorious for petty thievery.

The Old Centre Nieuwmarkt and around The eastern reaches of the Red Light District peter out at cobbled Nieuwmarkt Nieuwmarkt, a wide-open, sometimes druggy square that centres on the turreted Waag Waag. Nieuwmarkt is within easy walking distance of a pleasant residential district situated between two ca.n.a.ls Geldersekade Geldersekade and and Oudeschans Oudeschans and lies at the end of the outermost of the three eastern ca.n.a.ls of fifteenth-century Amsterdam, and lies at the end of the outermost of the three eastern ca.n.a.ls of fifteenth-century Amsterdam, Kloveniersburgwal Kloveniersburgwal, a long, dead-straight waterway flanked by a string of dignified facades. Together, these ca.n.a.ls make for one of the most engaging parts of the city, especially at the southern end, where a small pocket of placid waterways and handsome old ca.n.a.l houses spreads over to neighbouring Groenburgwal Groenburgwal a narrow and almost impossibly pretty waterway. a narrow and almost impossibly pretty waterway.

The Old Centre Nieuwmarkt and around Nieuwmarkt and around Nieuwmarkt Nieuwmarkt was long one of the city's most important markets and the place where Gentiles and Jews from the nearby was long one of the city's most important markets and the place where Gentiles and Jews from the nearby Jewish Quarter Jewish Quarter just southeast along St Antoniebreestraat traded. All that came to a traumatic end during World War II, when the Germans cordoned off the Nieuwmarkt with barbed wire and turned it into a holding pen. After the war, the square's old exuberance never returned and these days all that remains of its former trading is a small organic food just southeast along St Antoniebreestraat traded. All that came to a traumatic end during World War II, when the Germans cordoned off the Nieuwmarkt with barbed wire and turned it into a holding pen. After the war, the square's old exuberance never returned and these days all that remains of its former trading is a small organic food market market on Sat.u.r.days (9am5pm). on Sat.u.r.days (9am5pm).

The focus of the square, the sprawling, multi-turreted Waag Waag, dating from the 1480s, has had a chequered history. Built as one of the city's fortified gates, Sint Antoniespoort, Amsterdam's expansion soon made it obsolete and the ground floor was turned into a munic.i.p.al weighing-house, with the rooms upstairs taken over by the surgeons' guild. It was here that the surgeons held lectures on anatomy and public dissections, the inspiration for Rembrandt's Anatomy Lesson of Dr Tulp Anatomy Lesson of Dr Tulp, displayed in the Mauritshuis Collection in The Hague. Abandoned by the surgeons and the weigh-masters in the nineteenth century, the building served as a furniture store and a fire station before falling into disuse, though it has recently been renovated to house a good cafe-bar and restaurant, In de Waag In de Waag.

The Old Centre Nieuwmarkt and around Nieuwmarkt and around Oudeschans The Montelbaanstoren Montelbaanstoren is a st.u.r.dy tower dating from 1512 that overlooks the is a st.u.r.dy tower dating from 1512 that overlooks the Oudeschans Oudeschans, a ca.n.a.l dug around the same time to improve the city's shipping facilities. The tower was built to protect the city's eastern flank but its decorative spire was added later, when the city felt more secure, by Hendrick de Keyser Hendrick de Keyser, the architect who did much to create Amsterdam's p.r.i.c.kly skyline.

The Scheepvaarthuis Scheepvaarthuis (Shipping Building), at Prins Hendrikkade 108, is an unusual edifice on the corner of Binnenkant. Completed in 1917, this is one of the flashiest of the buildings designed by the Amsterdam School of architecture, the work of a certain (Shipping Building), at Prins Hendrikkade 108, is an unusual edifice on the corner of Binnenkant. Completed in 1917, this is one of the flashiest of the buildings designed by the Amsterdam School of architecture, the work of a certain Johann Melchior van der Mey Johann Melchior van der Mey (18781949). An almost neurotically decorated edifice covered with a welter of detail celebrating the city's marine connections, the entrance is shaped like a prow and surmounted by statues of Poseidon and Amphitrite, his wife. Up above them are female representations of the four points of the compa.s.s, while slender turrets and Expressionistic carvings playfully decorate the walls. It's now the five-star hotel (18781949). An almost neurotically decorated edifice covered with a welter of detail celebrating the city's marine connections, the entrance is shaped like a prow and surmounted by statues of Poseidon and Amphitrite, his wife. Up above them are female representations of the four points of the compa.s.s, while slender turrets and Expressionistic carvings playfully decorate the walls. It's now the five-star hotel Amrath Amrath, but you can pop in for a drink in its bar for a glimpse of the interior, which here at least has been well preserved.

The Old Centre Nieuwmarkt and around Nieuwmarkt and around Kloveniersburgwal Heading south along Kloveniersburgwal Kloveniersburgwal from Nieuwmarkt, it's a short hoof to the from Nieuwmarkt, it's a short hoof to the Trippenhuis Trippenhuis at no. 29, an overblown mansion complete with Corinthian pilasters and a grand frieze built for the Trip family in 1662. One of the richest families in Amsterdam, the Trips were a powerful force among the at no. 29, an overblown mansion complete with Corinthian pilasters and a grand frieze built for the Trip family in 1662. One of the richest families in Amsterdam, the Trips were a powerful force among the Magnificat Magnificat, the clique of families (Six, Trip, Hooft and Pauw) who shared power during the Golden Age. One part of the Trip family dealt with the Baltic trade, another with the manufacture of munitions (in which they had the munic.i.p.al monopoly), but in addition they also had trade interests in Russia and the Middle East, much like the multinationals of today. In the nineteenth century the Rijksmuseum collection was displayed here, but the house now contains the Dutch Academy of Sciences.

Almost directly opposite, on the west bank of the ca.n.a.l, the Kleine Trippenhuis Kleine Trippenhuis, at no. 26 (now a lingerie shop), is by contrast one of the narrowest houses in Amsterdam, albeit with an attractively carved facade and a bal.u.s.trade featuring centaurs and sphinxes. Legend has it that Mr Trip's coachman was so taken aback by the size of the new family mansion that he exclaimed he would be happy with a home no wider than the Trips' front door which is exactly what he got; his reaction to his new lodgings is not recorded.

A few metres south, on the corner of Oude Hoogstraat, is the former headquarters of the Dutch East India Company, the Oostindisch Huis Oostindisch Huis, a monumental red-brick structure with high-pitched gables and perky dormer windows, built in 1605 shortly after the founding of the company. It was from here that the Company organized and regulated its immensely lucrative trading interests in the Far East, importing shiploads of spices, perfumes and exotic woods (see "The Dutch East India Company"). This trade underpinned Amsterdam's Golden Age; predictably, the people of what is now Indonesia, the source of most of the raw materials, received little in return. Nevertheless, despite the building's historic significance, the interior is of no interest today, being occupied by university cla.s.srooms and offices.

Further south, Kloveniersburgwal leads into the student district, where the buildings here and along adjoining ca.n.a.ls house the various departments of the University of Amsterdam University of Amsterdam. At the heart of this is the Oudemanhuispoort Oudemanhuispoort (MonSat 10am4pm), a covered pa.s.sageway that leads between Kloveniersburgwal and OZ Achterburgwal. Now lined by secondhand book stalls, it was formerly part of an almshouse complex for elderly men hence the unusual name. The buildings on either side are part of the university and their gardens provide a quiet place to rest between sights. Afterwards, you can either wander through the university's peaceful precincts or cross the south end of Kloveniersburgwal to one of the prettiest corners of the city a pocket of placid waterways and old ca.n.a.l houses that extends east to (MonSat 10am4pm), a covered pa.s.sageway that leads between Kloveniersburgwal and OZ Achterburgwal. Now lined by secondhand book stalls, it was formerly part of an almshouse complex for elderly men hence the unusual name. The buildings on either side are part of the university and their gardens provide a quiet place to rest between sights. Afterwards, you can either wander through the university's peaceful precincts or cross the south end of Kloveniersburgwal to one of the prettiest corners of the city a pocket of placid waterways and old ca.n.a.l houses that extends east to Zwanenburgwal Zwanenburgwal. If you cross the ca.n.a.l along Staalstraat Staalstraat and stop at the second of the two little swing bridges, you'll get one of the finest views in the city, down the slender and stop at the second of the two little swing bridges, you'll get one of the finest views in the city, down the slender Groenburgwal Groenburgwal with the Zuiderkerk looming beyond. with the Zuiderkerk looming beyond.

The Old Centre Nieuwmarkt and around Nieuwmarkt and around The Zuiderkerk The Zuiderkerk Zuiderkerk (MonFri 9am4pm, Sat noon4pm; free), dating from 1611, was the first Amsterdam church built specifically for the Protestants. It was designed by the prolific architect and sculptor, (MonFri 9am4pm, Sat noon4pm; free), dating from 1611, was the first Amsterdam church built specifically for the Protestants. It was designed by the prolific architect and sculptor, Hendrick de Keyser Hendrick de Keyser, whose distinctive and very popular style extrapolated elements of traditional Flemish design, with fanciful detail and frilly towers added wherever possible. The basic design of the Zuiderkerk is firmly Gothic, but the soaring tower (Zuidertoren) is a fine ill.u.s.tration of de Keyser's work, complete with balconies and bal.u.s.trades, arches, urns and columns.

The church church was deconsecrated in the 1930s, but it was here that the bodies of the dead were temporarily stored and piled up during the terrible winter of 194445. In the late 1980s, it was turned into a munic.i.p.al information centre with displays on housing and the environment, plus temporary was deconsecrated in the 1930s, but it was here that the bodies of the dead were temporarily stored and piled up during the terrible winter of 194445. In the late 1980s, it was turned into a munic.i.p.al information centre with displays on housing and the environment, plus temporary exhibitions exhibitions revealing the city council's future plans; exhibits on roads and infrastructure changes attract considerable interest. The revealing the city council's future plans; exhibits on roads and infrastructure changes attract considerable interest. The tower tower, which has a separate entrance, can be climbed during the summer (AprilSept MonSat 13.30pm; 3) and from the top there are sweeping views over the city centre.

The Old Centre Nieuwmarkt and around Nieuwmarkt and around St Antoniesbreestraat You can cut through from the Zuiderkerk to St Antoniesbreestraat St Antoniesbreestraat, which once linked the city centre with the Jewish Quarter. Its huddle of shops and houses was mostly demolished in the 1980s to make way for a main road, but the plan was subsequently abandoned; the buildings that now line most of the street hardly fire the soul, even if the modern symmetries and cubist, coloured panels of the apartment blocks that sprawl along part of the street are visually arresting. One of the few survivors of all these munic.i.p.al shenanigans is the Pintohuis Pintohuis (Mon & Wed 28pm, Fri 25pm, Sat 11am4pm; free), at no. 69, which is now a public library. Easily spotted by its off-white Italianate (Mon & Wed 28pm, Fri 25pm, Sat 11am4pm; free), at no. 69, which is now a public library. Easily spotted by its off-white Italianate facade facade, the mansion is named after Isaac de Pinto, a Jew who fled Portugal to escape the Inquisition and subsequently became a founder of the Dutch East India Company the Dutch East India Company. Pinto bought this property in 1651 and promptly had it remodelled in grand style, with a facade interrupted by six lofty pilasters which lead the eye up to the blind bal.u.s.trade. The mansion was the talk of the town, even more so when de Pinto had the interior interior painted in a similar style to the exterior pop in to look at the birds and cherubs of the original painted ceiling. painted in a similar style to the exterior pop in to look at the birds and cherubs of the original painted ceiling.

[image]

The Zuiderkerk

The Grachtengordel The western reaches of medieval Amsterdam were once enclosed by the Singel Singel, part of the city's protective moat, but this is now just the first of five ca.n.a.ls that stretch right around the city centre, extending anticlockwise from Brouwersgracht to the River Amstel in a "girdle of ca.n.a.ls", or Grachtengordel Grachtengordel. This is without doubt the most charming part of Amsterdam, a lattice of olive-green waterways and d.i.n.ky humpback bridges overlooked by street upon street of handsome seventeenth-century ca.n.a.l houses, almost invariably undisturbed by later development. Of the three main ca.n.a.ls, Herengracht Herengracht (Gentlemen's Ca.n.a.l) was the first to be dug, followed by (Gentlemen's Ca.n.a.l) was the first to be dug, followed by Keizersgracht Keizersgracht (Emperor's Ca.n.a.l), named after the Holy Roman Emperor and fifteenth-century patron of the city, Maximilian. Further out still is (Emperor's Ca.n.a.l), named after the Holy Roman Emperor and fifteenth-century patron of the city, Maximilian. Further out still is Prinsengracht Prinsengracht, Princes' Ca.n.a.l, named in honour of the princes of the House of Orange. North of Leidsegracht, the main ca.n.a.ls are intersected by a pattern of cross-streets cross-streets, eminently appealing shopping streets shopping streets, where you can buy everything from carpets and handmade chocolates to designer toothbrushes and beeswax candles all in all Amsterdam at its creative, imaginative best.

It's also a subtle cityscape full of surprises, with a bizarre carving here, an unusual facade stone (used to denote name and occupation) there and one in which the gables gables overlooking the ca.n.a.ls gradually evolved. The earliest, dating from the early seventeenth century, are overlooking the ca.n.a.ls gradually evolved. The earliest, dating from the early seventeenth century, are crow-stepped gables crow-stepped gables, but these were largely superseded from the 1650s onwards by neck gables neck gables and and bell gables bell gables, both named for the shape of the gable top. Some are embellished, many have decorative cornices, and the fanciest which mostly date from the eighteenth century sport full-scale bal.u.s.trades bal.u.s.trades. The plainest gables are those of former warehouses warehouses, where the deep-arched and shuttered windows line up on either side of loft doors that were once used for loading and unloading goods, winched by pulley from the street down below. Indeed, outside pulleys pulleys remain a common feature of houses and warehouses alike, and are often still in use as the easiest way of moving furniture into the city's myriad apartments. remain a common feature of houses and warehouses alike, and are often still in use as the easiest way of moving furniture into the city's myriad apartments.

The grandest Grachtengordel houses are concentrated along the so-called De Gouden Bocht De Gouden Bocht the Golden Bend on Herengracht between Leidsestraat and the Amstel. Here, the architectural decorum and arguably the aesthetic vigour of the seventeenth century are left behind for the overblown, French-influenced mansions that became popular with the city's richest merchants in the 1700s. Nevertheless, it is perhaps the district's laid-back, easygoing atmosphere that appeals, rather than any specific sight, with one remarkable exception the the Golden Bend on Herengracht between Leidsestraat and the Amstel. Here, the architectural decorum and arguably the aesthetic vigour of the seventeenth century are left behind for the overblown, French-influenced mansions that became popular with the city's richest merchants in the 1700s. Nevertheless, it is perhaps the district's laid-back, easygoing atmosphere that appeals, rather than any specific sight, with one remarkable exception the Anne Frank Huis Anne Frank Huis, where the young, and now internationally famous, Jewish diarist hid from the n.a.z.is in World War II. Also of interest, though on a different level altogether, is the new Ta.s.senmuseum Ta.s.senmuseum of bags and purses plus a pair of restored merchants' mansions, the of bags and purses plus a pair of restored merchants' mansions, the Museum Willet-Holthuysen Museum Willet-Holthuysen and the and the Museum Van Loon Museum Van Loon.

The Grachtengordel This section covers the first four ca.n.a.ls of the Grachtengordel the Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht as they sweep down from Brouwersgracht to the Amstel. For the purposes of this guide, the district has been split into two: This section covers the first four ca.n.a.ls of the Grachtengordel the Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht as they sweep down from Brouwersgracht to the Amstel. For the purposes of this guide, the district has been split into two: Grachtengordel west Grachtengordel west and and Grachtengordel south Grachtengordel south divided at roughly the halfway point, Leidsegracht. There's no obvious walking route around the area indeed you may prefer to wander around as the mood takes you but the description given below goes from north to south, taking in all the highlights on the way. On all three of the main ca.n.a.ls, divided at roughly the halfway point, Leidsegracht. There's no obvious walking route around the area indeed you may prefer to wander around as the mood takes you but the description given below goes from north to south, taking in all the highlights on the way. On all three of the main ca.n.a.ls, street numbers street numbers begin at Brouwersgracht and increase as you go south. begin at Brouwersgracht and increase as you go south.

The Grachtengordel Expanding the city The three main Grachtengordel ca.n.a.ls Grachtengordel ca.n.a.ls Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht were dug in the seventeenth century as part of a comprehensive plan to extend the boundaries of a city no longer able to accommodate its burgeoning population. The idea was that the council would buy up the land around the city, dig the ca.n.a.ls, and lease plots back to developers, thus increasing the size of the city from two to seven square kilometres. The plan was pa.s.sed by the city council in 1607 and work began six years later, against a backdrop of corruption, with Amsterdammers in the know buying up the land they thought the city would soon have to purchase. Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht were dug in the seventeenth century as part of a comprehensive plan to extend the boundaries of a city no longer able to accommodate its burgeoning population. The idea was that the council would buy up the land around the city, dig the ca.n.a.ls, and lease plots back to developers, thus increasing the size of the city from two to seven square kilometres. The plan was pa.s.sed by the city council in 1607 and work began six years later, against a backdrop of corruption, with Amsterdammers in the know buying up the land they thought the city would soon have to purchase.

It was a monumental task, and the conditions imposed by the council were strict. The three main waterways main waterways were set aside for the residences and businesses of the richer and more influential Amsterdam merchants, while the were set aside for the residences and businesses of the richer and more influential Amsterdam merchants, while the radial cross-streets radial cross-streets were reserved for more modest artisans' homes; meanwhile, newly arrived immigrants set to cash in on Amsterdam's booming economy were a.s.signed, albeit informally, to the Jodenhoek "Jews' Corner" (see " were reserved for more modest artisans' homes; meanwhile, newly arrived immigrants set to cash in on Amsterdam's booming economy were a.s.signed, albeit informally, to the Jodenhoek "Jews' Corner" (see "The Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands") and the Jordaan Jordaan.

In the Grachtengordel, everyone even the wealthiest merchant had to comply with a set of strict and detailed planning regulations planning regulations. In particular, the council prescribed the size of each building plot the frontage was set at thirty feet, the depth two hundred and although there was a degree of tinkering, the end result was the loose conformity you can see today: tall, narrow residences narrow residences, whose individualism is mainly restricted to the stylistic permutations among the gables. Even the colour of the front doors was once regulated, with choice restricted to a shade that has since become known as "Amsterdam Green" still something of a rarity outside Holland. It took decades to complete the project, but by the 1690s it was all pretty much finished off at a time, ironically, when Amsterdam was in economic decline.

In essence, the Grachtengordel is a tribute to the architectural tastes of the city's middle cla.s.s, an amalgam of personal wealth and aesthetic uniformity individuality and order that epitomized Amsterdam's Protestant bourgeoisie in its pomp.

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel west Stretching south from the Brouwersgracht to the Leidsegracht, Grachtengordel west Grachtengordel west boasts a fine selection of seventeenth-century ca.n.a.l houses. These are at their prettiest along boasts a fine selection of seventeenth-century ca.n.a.l houses. These are at their prettiest along Herengracht Herengracht between Wolvenstraat and Leidsegracht, and this is where you'll also find the between Wolvenstraat and Leidsegracht, and this is where you'll also find the Bijbels Museum Bijbels Museum (Bible Museum), home to an odd a.s.sortment of models of ancient Jewish temples. Nevertheless, easily the most popular attraction here is the (Bible Museum), home to an odd a.s.sortment of models of ancient Jewish temples. Nevertheless, easily the most popular attraction here is the Anne Frank Huis Anne Frank Huis, on Prinsengracht, which is itself just a short stroll from the soaring architecture of the Westerkerk Westerkerk.

[image]

The Grachtengordel Grachtengordel west Grachtengordel west Brouwersgracht to Prinsenstraat Running east to west along the northern edge of the three main ca.n.a.ls is Brouwersgracht Brouwersgracht, one of the most picturesque waterways in the city. Look down any of the major ca.n.a.ls from here and you'll see the gentle interplay of water, barge, brick and stone that gives the city its distinctive allure. South of Brouwersgracht, along the west side of P