The Rough Guide To Amsterdam Part 14

Peter Doeswijk Vijzelgracht 11 (Grachtengordel south) 020/420 3133, Vijzelgracht 11 (Grachtengordel south) 020/420 3133, www.peterdoeswijk.nl. Idiosyncratic, brightly coloured, street-art style miscellany, from phones and toilet seats to painted wooden ca.n.a.l houses in wobbly mirror shapes much, much better than the usual tourist stuff. Opening times vary ring ahead to check.

Droog Design Staalstraat 7 (Old Centre) 020/523 5050, Staalstraat 7 (Old Centre) 020/523 5050, www.droogdesign.nl. Founded in 1993, Droog Design has made a serious contribution to the international reinvention of design. Some of their products, such as their milk bottle chandelier, have ended up in museum collections; this is their gallery and shop. TuesSat noon6pm.

Fair Trade Shop Heiligeweg 45 (Old Centre) 020/625 2245, Heiligeweg 45 (Old Centre) 020/625 2245, www.fairtrade.nl. Fair trade goods of all kinds food, household items, books and cards. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sat 10am5.30pm, Sun noon5pm.

[image]Frozen Fountain Prinsengracht 629 (Grachtengordel south) 020/622 9375, Prinsengracht 629 (Grachtengordel south) 020/622 9375, www.frozenfountain.nl. Contemporary furniture and interior design with the emphasis on all things Dutch. At Leidsegracht. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm.

Gamekeeper Hartenstraat 14 (Grachtengordel west) 020/638 1579, Hartenstraat 14 (Grachtengordel west) 020/638 1579, www.gamekeeper.nl. The place to go if you're into games. All kinds of "fantasy" games, mainly for adults, from Games Workshop to role-play games, collectible cards, backgammon, magic accessories, etc. Mon noon6pm, TuesFri 10.30am6.30pm, Sat 10am6pm, Sun 11am6pm.

Gerda's Runstraat 16 (Grachtengordel west) 020/624 2912, Runstraat 16 (Grachtengordel west) 020/624 2912, www.gerdasflowers.com. Amsterdam is full of flower shops, but this one is the most imaginative and sensual. Bouquets to melt the hardest of hearts. MonFri 9am6pm, Sat 9am5pm.

P.G.C. Hajenius Rokin 92 (Old Centre) 020/623 7494. Long-established tobacconist selling its own and other brands of cigars, tobacco, smoking accessories, and every make of cigarette you can think of. There's also a room at the back where you can sit and smoke and have a coffee as you view the amazing range of cigars, pipes and smoking accessories, and even leaf through a magazine or book from its library. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 9.30am6pm, Sun noon5pm. Rokin 92 (Old Centre) 020/623 7494. Long-established tobacconist selling its own and other brands of cigars, tobacco, smoking accessories, and every make of cigarette you can think of. There's also a room at the back where you can sit and smoke and have a coffee as you view the amazing range of cigars, pipes and smoking accessories, and even leaf through a magazine or book from its library. Mon noon6pm, TuesSat 9.30am6pm, Sun noon5pm.

The Head Shop Kloveniersburgwal 39 (Old Centre) 020/624 9061. Every dope-smoking accessory you could possibly need, along with a.s.sorted marijuana memorabilia. MonFri 11am6pm, Sat 11am7pm, Sun noon7pm. Kloveniersburgwal 39 (Old Centre) 020/624 9061. Every dope-smoking accessory you could possibly need, along with a.s.sorted marijuana memorabilia. MonFri 11am6pm, Sat 11am7pm, Sun noon7pm.

Hera Candles Overtoom 402 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/616 2886. A wonderful little all-wood shop selling nothing but handmade candles of all shapes, sizes and scents. Wed 26pm, Thurs & Fri 11am6pm, Sat 11am5pm. Overtoom 402 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/616 2886. A wonderful little all-wood shop selling nothing but handmade candles of all shapes, sizes and scents. Wed 26pm, Thurs & Fri 11am6pm, Sat 11am5pm.

Himalaya Warmoesstraat 56 (Old Centre) 020/626 0899. Something of an oasis of calm in the Red Light District, this cosy shop has a wide selection of books and magazines from around the world, with New Age music, tarot cards and bric-a-brac, as well as readings, a changing photo/art exhibition, and a cafe with a terrace and ca.n.a.l view out back. Mon noon6.30pm, TuesSat 10.30am6.30pm (Sat from 10am), Sun 11.30am5.30pm. Warmoesstraat 56 (Old Centre) 020/626 0899. Something of an oasis of calm in the Red Light District, this cosy shop has a wide selection of books and magazines from around the world, with New Age music, tarot cards and bric-a-brac, as well as readings, a changing photo/art exhibition, and a cafe with a terrace and ca.n.a.l view out back. Mon noon6.30pm, TuesSat 10.30am6.30pm (Sat from 10am), Sun 11.30am5.30pm.

[image]Jacob Hooij Kloveniersburgwal 1012 (Old Centre) 020/624 3041. Homeopathic chemist with any amount of herbs and natural cosmetics, as well as a huge stock of Kloveniersburgwal 1012 (Old Centre) 020/624 3041. Homeopathic chemist with any amount of herbs and natural cosmetics, as well as a huge stock of drop drop (Dutch liquorice). In business at this address since 1778 and the shop and its stock seem as if they are the same now as then. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm. (Dutch liquorice). In business at this address since 1778 and the shop and its stock seem as if they are the same now as then. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm.

Joe's Vliegerwinkel Nieuwe Hoogstraat 19 (Old Centre) 020/625 0139. Kites, frisbees, boomerangs, diabolos, yo-yos, juggling b.a.l.l.s and clubs. TuesFri noon6pm, Sat noon5pm. Nieuwe Hoogstraat 19 (Old Centre) 020/625 0139. Kites, frisbees, boomerangs, diabolos, yo-yos, juggling b.a.l.l.s and clubs. TuesFri noon6pm, Sat noon5pm.

Kitsch Kitchen Rozengracht 8 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/622 8261, Rozengracht 8 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/622 8261, www.kitschkitchen.nl. Crammed full of chunky furniture, bowls and kitsch home stuff, plus bags, ap.r.o.ns, umbrellas and diaries, all in bright primary colours. MonSat 10am6pm, Sun noon5pm.

't Klompenhuisje Nieuwe Hoogstraat 9a (Old Centre) 020/622 8100. Amsterdam's best and brightest array of clogs and kids' shoes. MonSat 10am6pm. Nieuwe Hoogstraat 9a (Old Centre) 020/622 8100. Amsterdam's best and brightest array of clogs and kids' shoes. MonSat 10am6pm.

Kramer and Pontifex Reestraat 20 (Grachtengordel west) 020/626 5274. On one side of the shop, Mr Kramer repairs old broken dolls and teddies; on the other, Pontifex sells all kinds of candles, oils and incense. MonSat 10am6pm. Reestraat 20 (Grachtengordel west) 020/626 5274. On one side of the shop, Mr Kramer repairs old broken dolls and teddies; on the other, Pontifex sells all kinds of candles, oils and incense. MonSat 10am6pm.

Kruiderij De Munt Vijzelstraat 1 (Grachtengordel south) 020/624 4533. A very wide range of herbal remedies, essential oils, teas and dietary supplements. MonSat 10am6.30pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm. Vijzelstraat 1 (Grachtengordel south) 020/624 4533. A very wide range of herbal remedies, essential oils, teas and dietary supplements. MonSat 10am6.30pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon6pm.

[image]Posthumus Sint Luciensteeg 23 (Old Centre) 020/625 5812. Upmarket stationery, cards and, best of all, hundreds of rubber stamps. Mon noon5pm, TuesFri 9am5pm, Sat 11am4pm. Sint Luciensteeg 23 (Old Centre) 020/625 5812. Upmarket stationery, cards and, best of all, hundreds of rubber stamps. Mon noon5pm, TuesFri 9am5pm, Sat 11am4pm.

De Roos PC Hooftstraat 183 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/689 0436, PC Hooftstraat 183 (Museum Quarter and Vondelpark) 020/689 0436, www.roos.nl. New Age bookshop with a wide selection of esoteric books, crystals and remedies. Part of a larger centre with a cafe (see "De Roos") and lots of training/learning courses. MonFri 10am8pm, Sat & Sun 11am5.30pm.

Santa Jet Prinsenstraat 7 (Grachtengordel west) 020/427 2070. Handmade Latin American items, from collectables to humorous knick-knacks to religious icons and a selection of hand-painted skulls. MonFri 11am6pm, Sat 10am5pm, Sun noon5pm. Prinsenstraat 7 (Grachtengordel west) 020/427 2070. Handmade Latin American items, from collectables to humorous knick-knacks to religious icons and a selection of hand-painted skulls. MonFri 11am6pm, Sat 10am5pm, Sun noon5pm.

Saskya & Co Stromarkt 5 020/420 0840. A better cla.s.s of Dutch souvenir, with ceramics, textiles and other bits and pieces that are a cut above the stuff you find elsewhere around the centre. Not exactly cheap though. Daily 11am8pm, except Thurs until 7pm. Stromarkt 5 020/420 0840. A better cla.s.s of Dutch souvenir, with ceramics, textiles and other bits and pieces that are a cut above the stuff you find elsewhere around the centre. Not exactly cheap though. Daily 11am8pm, except Thurs until 7pm.

Tibet Winkel Spuistraat 185a (Old Centre) 020/420 4538, Spuistraat 185a (Old Centre) 020/420 4538, www.tibetwinkel.nl. Books, music, jewellery and more, all made by Tibetan refugees in Nepal and India. The Tibet Support Group (020/623 7699) can give travel advice and information on Tibetan restaurants in Holland and anything else concerned with Tibet. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10am6pm, Sun 15pm.

Tikal Hartenstraat 2a (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 2147. Colourful textiles and jewellery from Mexico and Guatemala. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 11am6pm, Sat 11am5.30pm. Hartenstraat 2a (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 2147. Colourful textiles and jewellery from Mexico and Guatemala. Mon 16pm, TuesFri 11am6pm, Sat 11am5.30pm.

Witte Tandenwinkel Runstraat 5 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 3443. The "White Teeth Shop" sells wacky toothbrushes and just about every dental hygiene accoutrement you could ever need and then some. Mon 15.30pm, TuesFri 10am5.30pm, Sat 10am5pm. Runstraat 5 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 3443. The "White Teeth Shop" sells wacky toothbrushes and just about every dental hygiene accoutrement you could ever need and then some. Mon 15.30pm, TuesFri 10am5.30pm, Sat 10am5pm.

Wonderwood Rusland 3 (Old Centre) 020/625 3738, Rusland 3 (Old Centre) 020/625 3738, www.wonderwood.nl. Claims to be a cross between a shop and a gallery, and it certainly is a good place to browse, packed as it is with vintage furniture designs in wood from the 1940s to the 1960s as well as its own creations based on the cla.s.sics. WedSat noon6pm.

Shopping Shops Shops Markets Albert Cuypmarkt Albert Cuypstraat (De Pijp, Outer districts). The city's princ.i.p.al general goods and food market, with some great bargains to be had including fashionwear and shoes. MonSat 9am5pm. Albert Cuypstraat (De Pijp, Outer districts). The city's princ.i.p.al general goods and food market, with some great bargains to be had including fashionwear and shoes. MonSat 9am5pm.

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Albert Cuypmarkt Amstelveld Prinsengracht, near Utrechtsestraat (Grachtengordel south). This market sells flowers and plants, but with much less of a scrum than the Bloemenmarkt. Mon 10am3pm. Prinsengracht, near Utrechtsestraat (Grachtengordel south). This market sells flowers and plants, but with much less of a scrum than the Bloemenmarkt. Mon 10am3pm.

Artplein Spui (Old Centre). Low-key but high-quality art market, with much lower prices than you'll find in the galleries; prints and occasional books as well. MarchDec Sun 10am6pm. Spui (Old Centre). Low-key but high-quality art market, with much lower prices than you'll find in the galleries; prints and occasional books as well. MarchDec Sun 10am6pm.

Bloemenmarkt Singel, between Koningsplein and Muntplein (Grachtengordel south). Flowers and plants, ostensibly for tourists, but regularly frequented by locals. Bulbs for export (with health certificate). Some stalls open on Sunday as well. MonSat 9am5.30pm. Singel, between Koningsplein and Muntplein (Grachtengordel south). Flowers and plants, ostensibly for tourists, but regularly frequented by locals. Bulbs for export (with health certificate). Some stalls open on Sunday as well. MonSat 9am5.30pm.

Boerenmarkt Noordermarkt, next to the Noorderkerk (Jordaan and Western docklands). Organic farmers' market selling all kinds of produce, including amazing fresh breads, exotic fungi, fresh herbs and home-made mustards. Sat 9am4pm. Noordermarkt, next to the Noorderkerk (Jordaan and Western docklands). Organic farmers' market selling all kinds of produce, including amazing fresh breads, exotic fungi, fresh herbs and home-made mustards. Sat 9am4pm.

Kunstmarkt Thorbeckeplein, south of Rembrandtplein (Grachtengordel south). Quality art market with more reasonable prices than you'll find in the galleries; vintage books too. MarchOct Sun 9am5pm. Thorbeckeplein, south of Rembrandtplein (Grachtengordel south). Quality art market with more reasonable prices than you'll find in the galleries; vintage books too. MarchOct Sun 9am5pm.

Lindengracht Lindengracht, south of Brouwersgracht (Jordaan and Western docklands). Rowdy and raucous general household supplies market, a complete switch from the gentility of the neighbouring Lindengracht, south of Brouwersgracht (Jordaan and Western docklands). Rowdy and raucous general household supplies market, a complete switch from the gentility of the neighbouring Boerenmarkt Boerenmarkt. Sat 9am5pm.

Noordermarkt Noordermarkt, next to the Noorderkerk (Jordaan and Western docklands). Junk-lover's gold mine, full of all kinds of bargains tucked away beneath piles of useless rubbish. Get there early. Mon 9am2pm. Noordermarkt, next to the Noorderkerk (Jordaan and Western docklands). Junk-lover's gold mine, full of all kinds of bargains tucked away beneath piles of useless rubbish. Get there early. Mon 9am2pm.

Waterlooplein Waterlooplein, behind the Stadhuis (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands). A real Amsterdam inst.i.tution, and the city's best flea market by far. Sprawling and chaotic, it's the final resting place for many a pair of yellow corduroy flares; but there are more wearable clothes to be found too, and some wonderful antique/junk stalls to root through. Some secondhand vinyl available. MonSat 9am5pm. Waterlooplein, behind the Stadhuis (Old Jewish Quarter and Eastern docklands). A real Amsterdam inst.i.tution, and the city's best flea market by far. Sprawling and chaotic, it's the final resting place for many a pair of yellow corduroy flares; but there are more wearable clothes to be found too, and some wonderful antique/junk stalls to root through. Some secondhand vinyl available. MonSat 9am5pm.

Westermarkt Westerstraat, from the Noorderkerk onwards (Jordaan and Western docklands). Another general goods market, though the emphasis here is on fabrics and textiles, roll after roll of the stuff. Very popular with the Jordaan locals. Mon 8am1pm. Westerstraat, from the Noorderkerk onwards (Jordaan and Western docklands). Another general goods market, though the emphasis here is on fabrics and textiles, roll after roll of the stuff. Very popular with the Jordaan locals. Mon 8am1pm.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam In keeping with the Dutch reputation for tolerance, no other city in Europe accepts gay people gay people quite as readily as Amsterdam, a liberalism that is displayed publicly at all gay events and festivals organized throughout the year: Amsterdam Pride is a huge occasion on the gay calendar, as is Queen's Day and the many memorial events that take place around the quite as readily as Amsterdam, a liberalism that is displayed publicly at all gay events and festivals organized throughout the year: Amsterdam Pride is a huge occasion on the gay calendar, as is Queen's Day and the many memorial events that take place around the h.o.m.omonument h.o.m.omonument(see "Westermarkt"). Furthermore, with the Dutch willingness to speak English, French and just about any other language, and with a good network of advice centres, bars, clubs and cinemas, Amsterdam has become a magnet for the international gay scene international gay scene. That said, a worrying recent development is an increase in the number of reports of h.o.m.ophobic activity. One specific example was at a 2008 Queen's Day fashion show to promote gay tolerance, during which a gay model was dragged off the catwalk by a group of young protesters. Local politicians have taken the incident very seriously and gay tolerance has become a key issue on the political agenda.

h.o.m.os.e.xuality was decriminalized in the Netherlands way back in 1811; a century later still sixty years ahead of the UK the gay age of consent age of consent was reduced to 21, and in 1971 it was brought into line with that of heteros.e.xuals, at 16. In 2001 the Netherlands was again at the vanguard of gay and lesbian rights, when the country legalized was reduced to 21, and in 1971 it was brought into line with that of heteros.e.xuals, at 16. In 2001 the Netherlands was again at the vanguard of gay and lesbian rights, when the country legalized same same-s.e.x marriages and introduced non-discriminatory adoption rights, with gay couples enjoying equal legal rights with heteros.e.xuals. Same-s.e.x couples holding hands and kissing in the streets are no more worthy of comment than straight couples; however, it's fair to say that gay men in Amsterdam are much better catered for than and introduced non-discriminatory adoption rights, with gay couples enjoying equal legal rights with heteros.e.xuals. Same-s.e.x couples holding hands and kissing in the streets are no more worthy of comment than straight couples; however, it's fair to say that gay men in Amsterdam are much better catered for than lesbians lesbians. Although there is a sizeable lesbian community, the city lacks strictly women-only establishments, and the lesbian scene is largely limited to a few nights held in men-only or mixed clubs.

The city has four recognized gay areas: Reguliersdwarsstraat Reguliersdwarsstraat, with its trendy bars and clubs, is the best known, attracting a young, lively and international crowd, while quieter Kerkstraat Kerkstraat is populated as much by locals as visitors, and includes a smattering of straight venues. The streets just north of is populated as much by locals as visitors, and includes a smattering of straight venues. The streets just north of Rembrandtplein Rembrandtplein and along the Amstel are a camp focus, as well as being home to a number of traditional Dutch pubs and rent-boy bars, while and along the Amstel are a camp focus, as well as being home to a number of traditional Dutch pubs and rent-boy bars, while Warmoesstraat Warmoesstraat, in the heart of the Red Light District, is cruisey and mainly leather-oriented. Cruising Cruising is generally tolerated in places where it's not likely to cause offence, such as in known gay areas, and most bars and clubs have is generally tolerated in places where it's not likely to cause offence, such as in known gay areas, and most bars and clubs have darkrooms darkrooms, which are legally obliged to provide safe s.e.x information and condoms.

If you want more information, get a copy of the free Amsterdam Gay Map Amsterdam Gay Map for visitors, published by the producers of the monthly magazine for visitors, published by the producers of the monthly magazine Gay News Gay News (3.75), both of which can be picked up from the COC (see " (3.75), both of which can be picked up from the COC (see "Gay and lesbian Amsterdam") or from most of the bars and shops listed in this section. The Gay Amsterdam website, www.gayamsterdam.com, is also a good resource for bar and club listings, and another free map, Friends Gaymap Amsterdam Friends Gaymap Amsterdam, is available online at www.gaymap.info. You could also purchase a copy of The Bent Guide To Gay & Lesbian Amsterdam The Bent Guide To Gay & Lesbian Amsterdam (9.95), a practical and witty (9.95), a practical and witty guidebook guidebook written in English by the volunteers at Pink Point (see " written in English by the volunteers at Pink Point (see "Resources and contacts") and available from the booth at Westermarkt or from bookshops listed in "Bookshops". Among the many local gay newspapers and magazines newspapers and magazines, Gay & Night Gay & Night ( (www.gay-night.nl), which is published monthly and costs 3.60 in newsagents (or free in a number of bars and shops), features interviews, news and film reviews. The fortnightly Gay Krant Gay Krant (2.95; (2.95; www.gk.nl) has all the details you could conceivably need, including up-to-the-minute listings, though it is available in Dutch only. Flyers and brochures for parties and gay-oriented shops can be found in most gay bars and businesses.

Gay-friendly hotels and bars are reviewed in this section and marked on the colour maps at the back of the guide. and bars are reviewed in this section and marked on the colour maps at the back of the guide.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Resources and contacts In addition to the organizations and centres listed in this section, there are two important sources of information on the gay and lesbian scene: the Gay and Lesbian Switchboard Gay and Lesbian Switchboard (020/623 6565, (020/623 6565, www.switchboard.nl; MonFri noon6pm, Sat & Sun 46pm), an English-speaking service providing help and advice on all manner of things, including where to go out in Amsterdam; and MVS Radio MVS Radio ( (www.mvs.nl), Amsterdam's gay and lesbian radio station, which broadcasts Monday to Sat.u.r.day from 7pm to 8pm on 106.8FM (or 103.3 via cable).

COC Rozenstraat 14 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/626 3087, Rozenstraat 14 (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/626 3087, www.cocamsterdam.nl. Amsterdam branch of the national gay and lesbian organization, offering advice and contacts. MonFri 10am4pm.

Gala 020/412 4463, 020/412 4463, www.gala-amsterdam.nl. Organization co-responsible for Pink Point and the various h.o.m.omonument festivals, including those on Queen's Day, Roze Wester and Amsterdam Pride, and themed parties at Club Church Club Church.

Pink Point Near the h.o.m.omonument, Westermarkt (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/428 1070, Near the h.o.m.omonument, Westermarkt (Jordaan and Western docklands) 020/428 1070, www.pinkpoint.org. This free advice and information point run by a team of knowledgeable volunteers offers practical information about where to go and what to do in the city, and is stocked with flyers and brochures, as well as a range of souvenirs and T-shirts. Also publishes the excellent Bent Guide Bent Guide. Daily 11am6pm.

Sch.o.r.er Sarphatistraat 35 (Grachtengordel south) 020/573 9444, Sarphatistraat 35 (Grachtengordel south) 020/573 9444, www.sch.o.r.er.nl. Gay and lesbian counselling centre offering professional and politically conscious advice on ident.i.ty, s.e.xuality and lifestyle (MonFri 9am5pm; July & Aug noon4pm). Its clinic, held at the Munic.i.p.al Health Department, provides STD examinations and treatment.

Stichting Tijgertje www.tijgertje.nl. Website providing information on gay and lesbian sports clubs throughout Amsterdam.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Accommodation The city's gay-friendly hotels gay-friendly hotels are reviewed here, and prices are for the cheapest double in high season (see " are reviewed here, and prices are for the cheapest double in high season (see "Accommodation prices"). There are no women-only hotels as such, but all the places listed below are lesbian-friendly. Note that it's illegal for any hotel to refuse entry to anyone on the grounds of s.e.xual orientation.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Accommodation Accommodation Old Centre Anco Oudezijds Voorburgwal 55 020/624 1126, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 55 020/624 1126, www.ancohotel.nl. Ten-minute walk from CS. Small and friendly hotel in the Red Light District, with a private bar catering exclusively to leather-wearing gay men. There are three- and four-person dorms (43 per person) with shared facilities and a studio with private bathroom and kitchenette (135). Booking advised. Doubles with shared facilities 90.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Accommodation Accommodation Grachtengordel south Amistad Kerkstraat 42 020/624 8074, Kerkstraat 42 020/624 8074, www.amistad.nl. Tram #1, #2 or #5 to Koningsplein. Stylish and cosy gay hotel, conveniently located for the Kerkstraat area. Each room is equipped with soft lighting, snug duvets, TV, fridge, minibar and safe. Standard rooms come without shower; deluxe room (150) has a bathtub and stereo. Breakfast is served in a convivial communal room 9am1pm, which later becomes a public internet lounge. From 94.

Golden Bear Kerkstraat 37 020/624 4785, Kerkstraat 37 020/624 4785, www.goldenbear.nl. Tram #1, #2 or #5 to Prinsengracht. Amsterdam's first gay hotel has recently been refurbished, its bright red walls adding some colour to this solid, well-managed option. The clean, comfortable rooms some en suite all come with sinks, fridges and DVD players. Booking essential. From 118.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Accommodation Accommodation The Museum Quarter and the Vondelpark Sander Jacob Obrechtstraat 69 020/662 7574, Jacob Obrechtstraat 69 020/662 7574, www.hotel-sander.nl. Tram #16 to Jacob Obrechtstraat. Right behind the Concertgebouw, this s.p.a.cious, pleasant hotel has twenty en-suite rooms; it is welcoming to gay men and women, and everyone else too. Triples and quads also available. Small bar open to guests only. From 100.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Nightlife and entertainment The main nightlife areas in the Old Centre and the Grachtengordel are dotted with gay bars and clubs gay bars and clubs. Some venues have both gay-only and mixed gay/straight nights, as indicated. Pink Point Pink Point, near the h.o.m.omonument, has flyers and can provide good, reliable advice on where to go in the city, as can Nighttours, www.nighttours.nl (in English), which features a guide to events, clubs and bars, as well as more general information on Amsterdam's gay scene. Although there are currently no clubs exclusively for lesbians, lesbian-only nights are on the increase, and the gay bars and clubs which welcome women are indicated below. Further information for women on where to go in Amsterdam can be obtained from the Gay and Lesbian Switchboard (see " (in English), which features a guide to events, clubs and bars, as well as more general information on Amsterdam's gay scene. Although there are currently no clubs exclusively for lesbians, lesbian-only nights are on the increase, and the gay bars and clubs which welcome women are indicated below. Further information for women on where to go in Amsterdam can be obtained from the Gay and Lesbian Switchboard (see "Resources and contacts") or from the Nighttours website (see "Nightlife and entertainment").

The only cinema cinema showing showing gay films gay films on a regularly is the Filmhuis on a regularly is the Filmhuis Cavia Cavia which, in conjunction with which, in conjunction with De Balie De Balie, hosts an annual event in December called De Roze Filmdagen De Roze Filmdagen ("Pink Film Days"; ("Pink Film Days"; www.rozefilmdagen.nl), a mini-season of gay and lesbian movies. Call the Gay and Lesbian Switchboard (see "Resources and contacts") for details of gay film showings around town, or take a look at the AUB's Uitlijst Uitlijst(see "Information").

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Nightlife and entertainment Nightlife and entertainment Bars Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Nightlife and entertainment Nightlife and entertainment Bars Bars Old Centre Anco Oudezijds Voorburgwal 55. Hotel leather bar with a large darkroom. Daily 9am10pm. Oudezijds Voorburgwal 55. Hotel leather bar with a large darkroom. Daily 9am10pm.

Argos Warmoesstraat 95. Europe's oldest leather bar, with two bars and a cellar darkroom. Not for the faint-hearted. Daily 10pm3am (Fri & Sat till 4am). Warmoesstraat 95. Europe's oldest leather bar, with two bars and a cellar darkroom. Not for the faint-hearted. Daily 10pm3am (Fri & Sat till 4am).

Cuckoo's Nest Nieuwezijds Kolk 6. An ever-popular cruisey leather bar, this is described as "the best place in town for chance encounters". Vast and infamous darkroom. Daily 1pm1am (Fri & Sat till 2am). Nieuwezijds Kolk 6. An ever-popular cruisey leather bar, this is described as "the best place in town for chance encounters". Vast and infamous darkroom. Daily 1pm1am (Fri & Sat till 2am).

Prik Spuistraat 109. Voted best gay bar of 2008 with tasty c.o.c.ktails, smoothies and snacks, plus DJs on weekends. Daily 4pm1am (Fri & Sat till 3am). Spuistraat 109. Voted best gay bar of 2008 with tasty c.o.c.ktails, smoothies and snacks, plus DJs on weekends. Daily 4pm1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

The Web St Jacobsstraat 6. Strict but friendly leather and bear bar-club that attracts an older crowd. Dance floor, darkrooms and a pool table. Daily 1pm2am (Fri & Sat till 3am). St Jacobsstraat 6. Strict but friendly leather and bear bar-club that attracts an older crowd. Dance floor, darkrooms and a pool table. Daily 1pm2am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Nightlife and entertainment Nightlife and entertainment Bars Bars Grachtengordel south Arc Reguliersdwarsstraat 44. Trendy, mixed, neon-lit club, with comfy couches, friendly bar staff and late-night dancing. Small fusion menu. Happy hour 57pm. Daily 4pm1am (Fri & Sat till 3am). Reguliersdwarsstraat 44. Trendy, mixed, neon-lit club, with comfy couches, friendly bar staff and late-night dancing. Small fusion menu. Happy hour 57pm. Daily 4pm1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

Downtown Reguliersdwarsstraat 31. Popular cafe that's a favourite with visitors and locals. Relaxed and friendly, with inexpensive meals. MonWed noon8pm, ThursSun 10am8pm. Reguliersdwarsstraat 31. Popular cafe that's a favourite with visitors and locals. Relaxed and friendly, with inexpensive meals. MonWed noon8pm, ThursSun 10am8pm.

Entre Nous Halvemaansteeg 14. Camp and often outrageous small bar. Can be packed at peak times, when everyone joins in the sing-alongs to cheesy Eighties music. Women welcome. Daily 8pm3am (Fri & Sat till 4am). Halvemaansteeg 14. Camp and often outrageous small bar. Can be packed at peak times, when everyone joins in the sing-alongs to cheesy Eighties music. Women welcome. Daily 8pm3am (Fri & Sat till 4am).

Lellebel Utrechtsestraat 4. Small and popular drag-show bar, with a lively and cheerful atmosphere. MonThurs 9pm3am, Fri & Sat 8pm4am, Sun 3pm3am. Utrechtsestraat 4. Small and popular drag-show bar, with a lively and cheerful atmosphere. MonThurs 9pm3am, Fri & Sat 8pm4am, Sun 3pm3am.

Mankind Weteringstraat 60. Quiet, non-scene, traditional Dutch bar away from the usual gay hangouts, with its own terrace beside the ca.n.a.l attracting locals and visitors alike. Inexpensive meals. Lovely in summer. Daily noonmidnight. Weteringstraat 60. Quiet, non-scene, traditional Dutch bar away from the usual gay hangouts, with its own terrace beside the ca.n.a.l attracting locals and visitors alike. Inexpensive meals. Lovely in summer. Daily noonmidnight.

Mix Cafe Amstel 50. Amstel 50. Gezellig Gezellig Dutch bar, playing the Top 40 and Europop. Daily 8pm3am (Fri & Sat till 4am). Dutch bar, playing the Top 40 and Europop. Daily 8pm3am (Fri & Sat till 4am).

Montmartre de Paris Halvemaansteeg 17. A convivial brown cafe that's usually packed, with the emphasis on music and entertainment (courtesy of Whitney and Madonna). Happy hour 68pm. Daily 5pm1am (Fri & Sat till 3am). Halvemaansteeg 17. A convivial brown cafe that's usually packed, with the emphasis on music and entertainment (courtesy of Whitney and Madonna). Happy hour 68pm. Daily 5pm1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

Rouge Amstel 60. Welcoming bar, popular with both tourists and locals. Mon, Thurs & Sun 4pm1am, Fri & Sat 4pm3am. Amstel 60. Welcoming bar, popular with both tourists and locals. Mon, Thurs & Sun 4pm1am, Fri & Sat 4pm3am.

Sappho Vijzelstraat 103. Friendly cafe with a small stage and a range of weekly and monthly nights. Tuesday is open-mic night for singer-songwriters, Friday is women-only night, and every first Sat.u.r.day of the month there's a mixed gay and lesbian club night. Small and cosy, the place fills up very quickly. Simple menu available till 10pm. TuesThurs & Sun 6pm1am, Fri & Sat 8pm3am. Vijzelstraat 103. Friendly cafe with a small stage and a range of weekly and monthly nights. Tuesday is open-mic night for singer-songwriters, Friday is women-only night, and every first Sat.u.r.day of the month there's a mixed gay and lesbian club night. Small and cosy, the place fills up very quickly. Simple menu available till 10pm. TuesThurs & Sun 6pm1am, Fri & Sat 8pm3am.

De Spijker Kerkstraat 4. Friendly leather and denim bar showing p.o.r.n movies, with an upstairs darkroom. Happy hour 57pm. Women welcome. Bingo every Sat from 6pm plus monthly leather parties (Sun from 7pm). Open MonThurs 3pm1am, Fri & Sat 1pm3am, Sun 1pm1am. Kerkstraat 4. Friendly leather and denim bar showing p.o.r.n movies, with an upstairs darkroom. Happy hour 57pm. Women welcome. Bingo every Sat from 6pm plus monthly leather parties (Sun from 7pm). Open MonThurs 3pm1am, Fri & Sat 1pm3am, Sun 1pm1am.

Vivelavie Amstelstraat 7. Small, campy bar patronized mostly, but not exclusively, by women, but gay men are very welcome. Quiet during the week, but packed at the weekend. Daily 4pm1am (Fri & Sat till 3am). Amstelstraat 7. Small, campy bar patronized mostly, but not exclusively, by women, but gay men are very welcome. Quiet during the week, but packed at the weekend. Daily 4pm1am (Fri & Sat till 3am).

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Nightlife and entertainment Nightlife and entertainment Bars Bars The Jordaan and Western docklands Saarein Elandsstraat 119. Amsterdam's first women-only bar, Elandsstraat 119. Amsterdam's first women-only bar, Saarein Saarein finally opened its doors to men in 1999, though its clientele remains mostly female. Some of the former glory of this split-level cafe may be gone, but it's still a warm, relaxing place, with a cheerful atmosphere. Also a useful source of contacts and information. Open 4pm1am (Fri & Sat till 2am). Closed Mon. finally opened its doors to men in 1999, though its clientele remains mostly female. Some of the former glory of this split-level cafe may be gone, but it's still a warm, relaxing place, with a cheerful atmosphere. Also a useful source of contacts and information. Open 4pm1am (Fri & Sat till 2am). Closed Mon.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Nightlife and entertainment Nightlife and entertainment Clubs Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Nightlife and entertainment Nightlife and entertainment Clubs Clubs Old Centre c.o.c.kring Warmoesstraat 96 020/623 9604, Warmoesstraat 96 020/623 9604, www.clubc.o.c.kring.com. One of Amsterdam's most popular and cruisey gay men's clubs with a small dancefloor and bars on three levels. Expect lots of shirtless men dancing to techno. Strip shows on Thurs, Sat & Sun from 1am. Get there early at the weekend to avoid queuing. Daily 11pm4am (Fri & Sat till 5am); entry 3.505.

Getto Warmoestraat 51 020/421 5151, Warmoestraat 51 020/421 5151, www.getto.nl. Relaxed, local bar-club situated in the heart of the Red Light District, serving food and c.o.c.ktails. Happy hour 57pm. Tarot readings every Sun from 8pm. TuesThurs 4pm1am, Fri & Sat 4pm2am, Sun 4pmmidnight.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Nightlife and entertainment Nightlife and entertainment Clubs Clubs Grachtengordel south Club Church Kerkstraat 52 Kerkstraat 52 www.clubchurch.nl. The most recent addition to the Amsterdam cruising scene, featuring fetish and themed nights hosted by the Gala foundation. Wed & Thurs 8pmmidnight, Fri & Sat 10pm4am, Sun 48pm.

Club Roque Amstel 178 Amstel 178 www.clubroque.nl. Incredibly stylish gay-minded discotheque with dance tunes and a c.o.c.ktail bar. Thursday is hosted by the Netherlands's most famous transvest.i.te, Nicky Nicole. Happy hour from ThursSat from 911pm. Wed & Thurs 9pm4am, Fri & Sat 9pm5am, Sun 6pmmidnight.

Exit Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 020/625 8788, Reguliersdwarsstraat 42 020/625 8788, www.clubexit.eu. A cla.s.sic gay club ideally situated for the fallout from the surrounding area's bars and cafes, with four bars each playing different music, from R&B to house, to an upbeat, cruisey crowd. Predominantly male, though women are admitted. Fri & Sat 11pm5am.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Nightlife and entertainment Nightlife and entertainment Clubs Clubs The Jordaan and Western docklands De Trut Bilderdijkstraat 165. Housed in a former factory building, this popular squat venue holds a gay/lesbian-only dance party on Sunday nights, with a large dancefloor, cheap drinks and a varied mix of music. Very popular with both men and women the doors close at midnight and if you arrive after 11pm you may not get in. Its bas.e.m.e.nt location means it can get very hot. 11pm4am; 1.50. Bilderdijkstraat 165. Housed in a former factory building, this popular squat venue holds a gay/lesbian-only dance party on Sunday nights, with a large dancefloor, cheap drinks and a varied mix of music. Very popular with both men and women the doors close at midnight and if you arrive after 11pm you may not get in. Its bas.e.m.e.nt location means it can get very hot. 11pm4am; 1.50.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Events The two leading events in Amsterdam's gay calendar are Remembrance Day Remembrance Day (May 4) and (May 4) and Liberation Day Liberation Day (May 5), both of which prompt ceremonies and events around the h.o.m.omonument, the symbolic focus of the city's gay community (see " (May 5), both of which prompt ceremonies and events around the h.o.m.omonument, the symbolic focus of the city's gay community (see "Westermarkt"). A few days before, there's Queen Queen's Day (April 30), when the whole city has a big knees-up, with gay parties and drag acts hosted throughout the city, and also the (April 30), when the whole city has a big knees-up, with gay parties and drag acts hosted throughout the city, and also the Roze Wester festival Roze Wester festival, commencing the evening of April 29 with the Drag Queen Olympics at the h.o.m.omonument, and ending on Liberation Day. Other events include Leather Pride Leather Pride ( (www.leatherpride.nl), held in October and November, and the infamous organized fetish parties, Trash (www.clubtrash.com) and Wasteland (www.wasteland.nl), although the latter is not strictly aimed at the gay community. Both events are held regularly throughout the year; look out for flyers in bars and shops.

The first Amsterdam Pride Amsterdam Pride ( (www.amsterdamgaypride.nl) took place in 1996 with street parties and performances, and is now one of the busiest annual events, with a "Ca.n.a.l Pride" flotilla of boats cruising down the Prinsengracht to musical accompaniment. If you're in the city for the first weekend in August, keep an eye out for bars and clubs holding parties over the weekend.

Finally, there's the old Amsterdam tradition of Hartjesdag Hartjesdag ("Day of Hearts"; ("Day of Hearts"; www.hartjesdagen.nl), which ceased to be observed just before World War II, then was rediscovered and popularized by a researcher in Gay and Lesbian Studies at the University of Amsterdam. During the third weekend in August, it was once common for Amsterdammers to dress up in the clothes of the opposite s.e.x, and, although the majority of the population have hardly flocked to the cross-dressing banner, nightclubs and bars around the Zeedijk and Nieuwmarkt often host a themed drag event during this weekend, including a drag parade on the Sunday from 4pm.

For more information on the above events or other special parties held throughout the year, see www.nighttours.nl.

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Amsterdam Pride Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Shops and services Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Shops and services Shops and services Bookshops American Book Center Spui 12 (Old Centre) 020/625 5537, Spui 12 (Old Centre) 020/625 5537, www.abc.nl. Large general bookstore, with a fine gay and lesbian section. Mon 11am7pm, TuesSat 10am8pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun 11am6.30pm.

Intermale Spuistraat 251 (Old Centre) 020/625 0009, Spuistraat 251 (Old Centre) 020/625 0009, www.intermale.nl. Well-stocked gay bookshop, with a wide selection of English, French, Spanish, German and Dutch literature, as well as cards, newspapers, magazines and DVDs. They have a worldwide mail order service. Mon 11am6pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sun noon5pm.

Vrolijk Paleisstraat 135 (Old Centre) 020/623 5142, Paleisstraat 135 (Old Centre) 020/623 5142, www.vrolijk.nu. "The largest gay and lesbian bookstore on the continent", with a vast stock of new and secondhand books and magazines, as well as music and DVDs. Mon 11am6pm, TuesFri 10am6pm, Sat 10am5pm, Sun 15pm.

Xantippe Unlimited Prinsengracht 290 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 5854, Prinsengracht 290 (Grachtengordel west) 020/623 5854, www.xantippe.nl. Small, general bookstore with an impressive range of books and resources by, for and about women, including a large lesbian section. Mon 17pm, TuesFri 10am7pm, Sat 10am6pm, Sun noon5pm.

Gay and lesbian Amsterdam Shops and services Shops and services s.e.x shops and cinemas Adonis Warmoesstraat 92 (Old Centre) 020/627 2959, Warmoesstraat 92 (Old Centre) 020/627 2959, www.adonis-4men.info. This long-standing gay cinema (entry 8) also stocks toys, books and videos. MonThurs & Sun 10am1am, Fri & Sat 10am3am.

Black Body Lijnbaansgracht 292 (Grachtengordel south) 020/626 2553, Lijnbaansgracht 292 (Grachtengordel south) 020/626 2553, www.blackbody.nl. Huge selection of rubber and leather, plus toys and much more. Online ordering service available. MonFri 10am6.30pm, Sat 11am6pm.

Bronx Kerkstraat 5355 (Grachtengordel south) 020/623 1548, Kerkstraat 5355 (Grachtengordel south) 020/623 1548, www.bronx.nl. Strictly p.o.r.n books, magazines and videos for men. Daily noon9pm.

Christine le Duc Spui 6 (Old Centre) 020/624 8265, Spui 6 (Old Centre) 020/624 8265, www.christineleduc.com. One of the least sleazy s.e.x shops in Amsterdam, selling quality underwear and s.e.x toys, with a good selection of DVDs for men and women. MonSat 10am9pm (Thurs till 10pm), Sun noon6.30pm.

Demask Zeedijk 64 (Old Centre) 020/620 5603, Zeedijk 64 (Old Centre) 020/620 5603, www.demask.com. Expensive rubber and leather fetish store for men and women. MonSat 11am7pm.

Drake's Damrak 61 (Old Centre) 020/627 9544, Damrak 61 (Old Centre) 020/627 9544, www.drakes.nl. Gay p.o.r.n cinema above a souvenir and s.e.x shop. Entry 10, under-25s half price, free to under-20s. Daily 9ammidnight.

Female and Partners Spuistraat 100 (Old Centre) 020/620 9152, Spuistraat 100 (Old Centre) 020/620 9152, www.femaleandpartners.nl. Staffed by women and with an emphasis on products for women, this shop has a good selection of lingerie, plus an array of s.e.x toys, with one of the best selections of vibrators in the city. Mon & Sun 16pm, TuesSat 11am6pm (Thurs till 9pm).

Mantalk Reguliersdwarsstraat 39 (Grachtengordel south) 020/627 2525. Small shop with an enormous choice of quality underwear and T-shirts which, owing to its location, is very popular with gay men. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm). Reguliersdwarsstraat 39 (Grachtengordel south) 020/627 2525. Small shop with an enormous choice of quality underwear and T-shirts which, owing to its location, is very popular with gay men. Mon 16pm, TuesSat 10am6pm (Thurs till 9pm).

Mister B Warmoesstraat 89 (Old Centre) 020/422 0003, Warmoesstraat 89 (Old Centre) 020/422 0003, www.misterb.com. Multi-level store selling rubber and leather clothing and s.e.x toys. Piercing and tattoos by appointment. MonFri 10.30am7pm (Thurs till 9pm), Sat 11am6pm, Sun 16pm.

RoB Amsterdam Warmoesstraat 71 (Old Centre) 020/627 3000, Warmoesstraat 71 (Old Centre) 020/627 3000, www.rob.nl. Top-quality made-to-measure leather wear, with a worldwide mail order service. MonSat 11am7pm, Sun 16pm.

Robin and Rik Runstraat 30 (Grachtengordel west) 020/627 8924. Handmade, quality leather clothes and accessories. Mon 26pm, TuesSat 11am6pm. Runstraat 30 (Grachtengordel west) 020/627 8924. Handmade, quality leather clothes and accessories. Mon 26pm, TuesSat 11am6pm.

Stout Berenstraat 9 (Grachtengordel west) 020/620 1676, Berenstraat 9 (Grachtengordel west) 020/620 1676, www.stoutinternational.com. A wide range of designer underwear and erotica for women in a smart environment and with helpful (female) staff. MonFri noon7pm, Sat 11am6pm, Sun 15pm.