The Perdue Chicken Cookbook Part 4

4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves or 1 thin sliced boneless roaster breast 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min 1 clove garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 egg, slightly beaten 1 tablespoon water 1/3 cup cornmeal 3 tablespoons cooking oil 1 ripe avocado, peeled, sliced 1-1/2 cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese 1/2 cup sour cream, divided 1/4 cup sliced scallion greens 1/4 cup chopped sweet red pepper cherry tomatoes parsley sprigs Preheat oven to 350oF. Pound the chicken to 1/4"

thickness. If using thin sliced breast, skip the previous step. In a shallow bowl, mix the cornstarch, c.u.min, garlic, and salt. In another bowl mix egg and water. Place cornmeal in a third small bowl. Coat chicken first with the cornstarch mixture, then with the egg, and finally with the cornmeal. (Marge Fortier says, "I always use cornstarch because it comes out thinner than flour".) In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add chicken and saute for two minutes on each side "to firm up the crust", then remove pieces to a shallow baking pan.

Before putting cutlets in oven, top them with avocado slices and sprinkle with cheese. Bake for 15 minutes or until cooked through. Top each chicken breast with sour cream and a sprinkling of scallions and red pepper. Garnish with cherry tomato halves and parsley. Serves four.

CHICKEN IN MUSTARD SAUCEServes 4 Home economist Mich.e.l.le Scicolone developed this recipe for Perdue, and she has an ultimate compliment for it: "It's what I make all the time when I'm cooking at home." You get crunchiness and crispness but it's not fried.

According to Mich.e.l.le, it comes out just fine with any mustard that you have on hand or any chicken parts you have around.

1 roaster boneless breast or thin sliced boneless breast 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced (2 cups) 2 tablespoons minced, fresh parsley l tablespoon minced shallot or scallion l/8 teaspoon ground pepper l/2 cup chicken broth l/4 cup dry white wine l tablespoon Dijon mustard Slice breast thinly if using whole breast. In large skillet, over medium-high heat, heat 2 tablespoons oil.

Add breast slices a few at a time, placing them so that pieces do not touch. Saute about 2 minutes per side, until chicken is lightly browned on both sides and cooked through. Remove from skillet; keep warm. Heat remaining oil. Add mushrooms, parsley, shallot and pepper. Stirring frequently, cook 2 minutes. Stir in broth and wine; bring to a boil and cook until liquid is reduced by half (about 1/3 cup). Reduce heat to low; stir in mustard until well blended. Spoon over chicken.

HOT PINEAPPLE BREAST Serves 4-6 My teenage son Carlos says he likes this better cold the next day with a small handful of slivered almonds tossed over it. Myself, I like it hot, served over rice.

If you have leftover chicken broth (as you probably will if you're using canned chicken broth), use it as part of the liquid you use to cook the rice. Also, if you like peppers to stay a bright green and don't mind if there's still some crunch to them, add them at the same time that you add the cornstarch rather than earlier in the recipe. They look pretty that way and pick up the bright red of the pimentos.

1 roaster boneless breast cut into 1/4" by 2" strips 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine 1 green pepper, cut into strips 1 cup celery, sliced diagonally 1 20-ounce can pineapple chunks, with liquid 3/4 cup chicken broth 1/4 cup chopped onion 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon or 1 teaspoon dried 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 4-ounce can pimento, drained and cut into strips 1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste In a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat, melt b.u.t.ter. Add chicken and saute for 5 minutes. Add green pepper and celery and cook 3 minutes, stirring. Drain pineapple, reserving liquid. Add drained pineapple, 1/2 cup of pineapple juice, broth, onion and tarragon. Bring mixture to a boil; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 5 minutes. Blend cornstarch with 2 tablespoons water to make a smooth paste. (If you like the sauce quite thick, use an extra teaspoon of cornstarch.) Add to skillet and continue to cook, stirring, until thickened. Add pimento and serve immediately.

LAYERED CHICKEN (Hawaiian) Serves 6-8 If you have a sweet tooth, this recipe could end up one of your favorites. Frank likes it a lot. Besides tasting delicious, it's also quite versatile. Once when I was making it, I happened to have leftovers of both chicken and rice, so I subst.i.tuted them for the first two ingredients in this recipe. I also omitted the water and pineapple juice. If you make this subst.i.tution in the recipe, you won't need to bake it, but instead only keep it in the oven long enough to heat it through. It's not quite as delicious as the original, but it's still very good. By the way, the layered arrangement of this dish is typically Hawaiian; don't stir or mix the ingredients.

8 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves 1-1/2 cups quick-cooking rice, uncooked 1 can (3-1/2-ounces) shredded coconut 1 can (20 ounces) pineapple chunks, drained...reserve juice 3/4 cup water 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice 4 tablespoons orange marmalade 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, melted 4 tablespoons soy sauce 2-1/2 teaspoons ground ginger Preheat oven to 350oF. Cut chicken into 1-inch cubes.

Place half of chicken in bottom of large shallow baking dish. Arrange rice in layer on top of chicken, then remaining chicken in layer. Add layer of coconut; then layer of pineapple chunks. Dot marmalade in s.p.a.ces between chunks of pineapple. Mix water, lemon juice and pineapple juice; pour over layers. Pour melted b.u.t.ter or margarine and soy sauce over all. Sprinkle ginger on top. Bake, covered, for 40 minutes or until chicken and rice are done.

Remove cover during last 5 minutes of baking for browning.

LEMON-PARSLEY b.r.e.a.s.t.serves 4 I have a friend who grows garlic in California who is a member of the Society of the Lovers of the Stinking Rose.

He says, "The most common misconception about garlic is that garlic breath is bad breath." He and his fellow Lovers of the Stinking Rose believe that on the contrary, it's mouthwash breath that is unpleasant. Their slogan is, "Get rid of mouthwash breath; eat garlic!" This recipe probably won't give you either mouthwash breath or garlic breath, since cooked garlic is quite mild in its effects.

1 roaster boneless breast salt and ground pepper to taste 4 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter or margarine, divided 1/4 cup bread crumbs 2 tablespoons minced, fresh parsley 2 tablespoons minced shallots or scallions 1 clove garlic, minced 1 lemon, thinly sliced Preheat oven to 375oF. Season breast with salt and pepper.

Pour 3 tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter into a baking dish. Add chicken to dish and turn to coat with b.u.t.ter. In a small bowl combine bread crumbs, parsley, shallots and garlic and spoon over chicken. Drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter. Top with lemon slices. Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until chicken is cooked through.

MARYLAND BREAST OF CHICKENServes 4 This recipe calls for scallions. If you have trouble finding scallions, ask for green onions; they're the same thing.

3/4 cup b.u.t.ter or margarine, divided 1/4 pound fresh crab meat (or frozen, thawed) 1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish 1 teaspoon tomato paste 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons fresh breadcrumbs salt and ground pepper to taste 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 roaster breast 1 tablespoon vinegar Preheat oven to 375oF. Melt 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter and toss in a mixing bowl with crab meat, scallions, horseradish, tomato paste, lemon juice, breadcrumbs and salt and pepper. With your forefinger carefully loosen skin from the neck end of the chicken breast to form a pocket, taking care not to detach sides or bottom. Stuff crab mixture between breast and skin. Rub breast with 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter; sprinkle with salt and pepper and place in roasting pan. Bake approximately one hour, until skin is brown and meat is tender. Remove to serving platter and keep warm. Skim off any fat from drippings; add wine and vinegar and bring to a boil. Reduce pan juices to about 1/4 cup and remove from heat. Whisk in remaining b.u.t.ter, strain into a sauceboat and serve separately.

QUICK SWEET AND SOUR b.r.e.a.s.t.serves 4 In most cases, I prefer fresh produce to canned. Tomatoes are, at times, an exception. If you're buying out-of-season tomatoes, and if you don't know the source, there's a good chance that they were picked green and artificially ripened. One tomato grower told me she'd rather eat cotton than an out-of-season tomato because the taste was so disappointing. There is some good news on the subject, though. Tomatoes retain their flavor during canning exceptionally well, and canned tomatoes are picked vine ripe. If you want the next best thing to a vine-ripened tomato, and it's winter, try canned tomatoes, as suggested in this recipe.

1 roaster boneless breast salt and ground pepper to taste flour 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine 1 medium onion, chopped 1 garlic clove, minced 1 medium green pepper, chopped 1 cup canned chopped tomatoes (with liquid) 1 can (8-1/4-ounces) cubed pineapple (plus 2 tablespoons pineapple juice from can) 3 tablespoons ketchup 2 tablespoons vinegar 1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 3 tablespoons water Cut roaster breast into 1-inch pieces. Season with salt and pepper; coat with flour and set aside. In saucepan, over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter and cook onions, garlic and green pepper for 5 minutes stirring often. Add tomatoes, pineapple and juice, ketchup and vinegar. Stir and simmer over low heat. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, over medium-high heat, melt remaining 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter.

Saute chicken, half at a time, until golden and cooked through, about 5 to 7 minutes per batch. Drain and place on serving dish. To sauce in pan, add dissolved cornstarch; cook, stirring, over high heat until sauce thickens. Pour over chicken pieces.

STUFFED BREAST PARMENTIERServes 4 Parmentier, a French food writer from 200 years ago, popularized the use of potatoes. Before him, people worried that potatoes might be poisonous. Today, when the name "Parmentier" occurs in a recipe, it's a signal that there will be potatoes in it.

1 roaster breast salt and ground pepper to taste 1 pound boiling potatoes, unpeeled 1/4 pound bacon, cooked and crumbled 1/2 cup chopped red onion 1/2 cup chopped celery 2 tablespoons dry bread crumbs 1/2 cup sour cream 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, softened Preheat oven to 375oF. Season breast inside and out with salt and pepper to taste. Boil potatoes in salted water to cover until just tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain, cool slightly, peel and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Toss with bacon, onion, celery, bread crumbs, sour cream and salt and pepper to taste. Stuff breast and neck cavities with potato mixture, wrapping exposed stuffing with foil. Place chicken breast-side-up in roasting pan. Rub skin with b.u.t.ter. Bake approximately 1-1/2 hours, until tender.

Transfer to serving dish; remove foil and serve.

RECIPES WITH CORNISH HENS

Have you ever wondered just what a "Cornish game hen"

is?

It's a very young bird, usually about 5 weeks old, as opposed to a broiler, which is 7 weeks, or a roaster, which is 12 weeks. Typically, they're tenderer and slightly lower in fat than older birds.

All Cornish game hens are very young chickens, but the Perdue Cornish game hens have something else special about them. Frank directed the Perdue geneticists to breed the broadest breasted Cornish hens in the industry. Like the Perdue Roasters, the Perdue Cornish have exceptionally broad b.r.e.a.s.t.s. The ratio of meat to bone is therefore particularly favorable.

BUFFALO-STYLE CORNISH PIECESServes 2 You can re-use the frying oil called for in this recipe, or any deep frying recipe, for that matter. As long as you never heat the oil to the smoking point and as long as you strain it through cheese cloth to remove any particles of food, you can use it over and over again. The oil is still good as long as it retains it's golden color. When it has turned a dark brown, it's time to replace it. If you don't have cheese cloth handy for straining, laundered nylon stockings make a good subst.i.tute.

Creamy Blue Cheese Dressing 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1/4 cup sour cream 2 tablespoons crumbled blue cheese 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 scallion, thinly sliced 1 small clove garlic, minced 2 fresh Cornish game hens salt and ground pepper to taste oil for deep frying 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, melted 2 tablespoons Tabasco In a small serving bowl prepare dressing by blending mayonnaise and sour cream. Stir in blue cheese, parsley, lemon juice, scallion and garlic. Chill. Quarter hens and remove backbones. Pat pieces dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil to 375oF or until a small cube of bread sizzles when placed in oil. Deep-fry hens 10 minutes, turning once. Drain well. In a small bowl blend melted b.u.t.ter and hot sauce; brush on chicken pieces. Serve warm with Creamy Blue Cheese Dressing.

CORNISH SAUTE WITH SUMMER SQUASHServes 2 To keep the olive oil called for in this recipe in its best condition, store it in an airtight container in a cool cupboard away from the light. It's not necessary to refrigerate it, and besides cold temperatures will make it cloudy and difficult to pour.

2 fresh Cornish game hens salt and ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium onion, sliced 1 clove garlic, minced 1 medium zucchini, sliced 1 medium yellow squash, sliced 1/2 cup chicken broth 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Halve hens and remove backbones. Season with salt and pepper. In a large skillet, over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add hen halves and brown on all sides, 10 to 12 minutes. Add onion and garlic; saute 3 to 4 minutes. Add squash, broth, parsley and lemon juice. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook 15 to 20 minutes or until hens are cooked through.

GRECIAN HEN SAUTEServes 2 Do you know the easiest way to peel the fresh tomatoes called for in this recipe? Place the tomatoes in boiling water for about 20-40 seconds and you'll find that the skin slips off quite easily. The riper the tomato, the quicker the skin loosens in boiling water.

2 fresh Cornish game hens 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 clove garlic, minced 1 bay leaf 1 and 1/2 teaspoon minced, fresh oregano or 1/2 teaspoon dried salt and ground pepper to taste 1/2 cup white wine 2 ripe tomatoes, peeled and quartered 1/4 pound feta cheese, cut into 1/2" cubes 2 tablespoons ripe olives, sliced Cut hens into quarters and remove backbones. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add chicken and brown 5 to 6 minutes per side. Add garlic, bay leaf, oregano, salt, pepper and wine. Cover and simmer over medium-low heat for 15 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook 10 minutes. Stir in cheese and olives. Cook 5 minutes longer or until hens are cooked through. Remove bay leaf before serving.

HENS NORMANDY WITH APPLESServes 2 If you're not using the apples in this recipe the day you buy them, store them in the refrigerator. Apples age five times faster at room temperature than they do in the refrigerator so they'll keep fresher longer if you store them in the refrigerator instead of in a fruit bowl.

2 fresh Cornish game hens salt and ground pepper to taste 1 tablespoon minced, fresh sage or 1 teaspoon dried 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, melted 2/3 cup apple juice 2 Golden Delicious apples, peeled 1/3 cup chicken broth or white wine 1/2 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley Season hens inside and out with salt and pepper. Put 1/2 of sage in each cavity. Tie legs together and fold wings back. Place hens in a flame proof baking pan just large enough to hold them comfortably. Brush with melted b.u.t.ter. Add apple juice to baking pan. Bake at 350oF 30 minutes, basting several times. Core and quarter apples; add to pan and baste. Bake 30 minutes, until hens and apples are tender, basting several times. Remove hens and apples to serving platter; keep warm. On top of stove, bring pan drippings to a boil; add broth or wine and cook until reduced by half. Stir in cream; cook 2 to 3 minutes until slightly thickened. Pour sauce over hens and apples.

Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

WINE-COUNTRY CORNISHServes 4 When you buy (or pick) the tomatoes called for in this recipe, store them at room temperature rather than in the refrigerator. The tomato farmers say that refrigerator temperatures destroy a tomato's flavor and texture. Try to use tomatoes soon after you buy them while they're still at their best.

4 fresh Cornish game hens salt and ground pepper to taste 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon flour 1/2 cup dry white wine or vermouth 1/2 cup chicken broth 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 1/2 teaspoons minced, fresh oregano or 1/2 teaspoon dried Season hens inside and out with salt and pepper. Fold wings back and tie legs together. In a Dutch oven large enough to hold all 4 Cornish, over medium-high heat, heat oil. Brown hens on breast side. If you don't have a pan big enough to do four at a time, brown one or two at a time. Remove hens and reserve. Add onion and garlic and saute for 5 minutes. Stir in flour. Add remaining ingredients and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Stir. Return hens to Dutch oven breast side up, and bring liquid to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer for 45 minutes. Cornish are done when juices run clear with no hint of pink when thigh is pierced.

RECIPES WITH CHICKEN PIECES In the early 1970s, 75% of the chicken sold was whole chicken. Today it's less than 25%. If you want to subst.i.tute all legs or all b.r.e.a.s.t.s or some other combination, look at the table in the Introduction, page s 12-13 for a chart showing equivalent amounts of the different parts.

BATTER FRIED CHICKENServes 4 I bet you can make this in less time than it takes to drive to the local fast food place and wait in line for service and drive back again. It should cost a lot less too.

Remember, you can re-use the frying oil many times. Just don't let it get so hot that it smokes and be sure to strain it after you've finished with the frying.

1-1/3 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 cup milk 1 egg, beaten 1 chicken cut in serving pieces Oil for deep frying In a mixing bowl combine dry ingredients; add milk and egg gradually to make batter. Dip chicken in batter. In a deep fryer heat oil to 350oF. Add chicken and fry for 15 to 25 minutes until cooked through.

BEER AND PRETZELS CHICKEN Serves 4 This dish is at its best when the bacon and pretzels are finely chopped. Use your blender or food processor to make the job easy.

1/3 cup flour 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/4 teaspoon ginger 1/4 teaspoon ground pepper 1/2 cup beer 1 egg 1/2 cup finely crushed pretzels 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 2 slices bacon, cooked crisp, crumbled 3 tablespoons minced, fresh parsley 1 chicken cut in serving pieces In a mixing bowl combine flour, paprika, salt, ginger and pepper. Add beer and egg; beat with a hand beater to make smooth batter. Mix crushed pretzels, Parmesan cheese, bacon and parsley in a large plastic bag. Dip chicken pieces one a time in batter; then place in bag with pretzel mix and shake to coat. Place coated chicken pieces in shallow baking pan, skin side up. Bake, covered, at 350oF for 30 minutes. Remove cover. Continue baking, uncovered, about 30 minutes longer or until chicken is cooked through.

CAPITAL CHICKEN Serves 4 This is rather highly seasoned dish. Your family might prefer it with a little less ginger--but then again, maybe they'll love it this strong.

1 chicken, cut in serving pieces 2 teaspoons ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 tablespoon flour 2 cloves garlic, sliced 1/2 cup rose wine 1/2 cup soy sauce 1/2 cup oil 1/4 cup water Preheat oven to 350oF. Place chicken in single layer, skin side up, in shallow baking pan. In a mixing bowl combine remaining ingredients and pour over chicken. Bake, uncovered for about 1 hour or until cooked through, basting occasionally.

CHICKEN ORANGE-ANO Serves 4 When you're making this recipe, what if you find that your brown sugar has hardened into a brick and you can't measure it anymore? I used to take a hammer and wallop it and then use the pieces. But then a sugar cane producer told me that a short term emergency solution is to heat the sugar at 250 degrees in the oven until it softened. The advantage of this is that it works. The disadvantage is that whatever's left is twice as hard once it cools. You can re-heat it again, but it gets more brick-like with each heating.

1/3 cup flour 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/8 teaspoon ground pepper 1 chicken, cut in serving pieces 1/4 cup b.u.t.ter or margarine 1 can (6-ounces) frozen orange juice concentrate 1 can (6-ounces) water 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg In a large plastic bag, combine flour salt and pepper. Add chicken pieces and shake to coat. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt b.u.t.ter. Add chicken pieces and brown for 12 to 15 minutes per side. Remove chicken and reserve.

Pour off and discard b.u.t.ter from skillet. Add remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Return chicken to skillet. Cover and cook over low heat for about 1/2 hour, turning chicken several times until cooked through.

FRUIT AND NUT CHICKENServes 4 Inflation hits all of us, but in this recipe, you'll find one ingredient has come down in price over the years. In fact, it's come down spectacularly. In Roman times, raisins weren't just expensive, they were money. You could buy a young slave for 2 amphora (jars) of raisins.

2 tablespoons oil 1 chicken cut in serving pieces 1-1/2 cups orange juice 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon Ground pepper to taste 1/2 cup golden raisins 1/2 cup slivered almonds In a large skillet over medium heat, heat oil. Add chicken and brown for 12 to 15 minutes per side. Pour orange juice over chicken. Sprinkle salt, cinnamon, pepper, raisins and almonds on top. Cover and simmer for approximately 30 minutes or until cooked through.

OVEN BARBECUED CHICKENServes 4 This isn't new or unique, but it's good. Of course, you can always use your favorite prepared barbecue sauce if you prefer.

1 chicken, cut in serving pieces 1 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/4 cup water 1/4 cup chili sauce 1/4 cup vinegar 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1/4 cup brown sugar 2 tablespoons oil Preheat oven to 350oF. Place chicken in single layer, skin side up, in shallow baking pan. In a mixing bowl combine remaining ingredients and pour over chicken. Bake, uncovered, for about 1 hour, or until cooked through.

PHOTO: Drumsticks in bowl of rice - bread & gla.s.s of wine - 3 RECIPES WITH GROUND CHICKEN Ground Chicken is a perfect subst.i.tute for ground beef in dishes such as spaghetti, chili, meatloaf, lasagna or even plain burgers. And ground chicken has fewer calories and less fat than ground beef. It will vary according to the individual manufacturer's formulations, but ground chicken usually averages 60% less fat than the U.S. Department of Agriculture standard permits for regular ground beef.

(Regular ground beef is about 30% fat.)

I was surprised to learn that there's actually a double standard for the beef industry and the poultry industry when it comes to describing fat content. Beef can be cla.s.sified as "lean" at 22.5% fat, while chicken is only "lean" if it contains 10% or less fat.

I was also surprised to learn how complicated it is to make ground chicken. If I weren't connected with the industry, I would have thought that to get ground chicken, you just put it in a grinder the way you do to get hamburger, and that would be it. Ah, but it's not so! The fibers of chicken meat are shorter and more delicate than beef. To get the right texture took a full year of experimentation and fine tuning at Perdue. The skilled and knowledgeable food scientists working on the project had to discover which parts of the bird tasted best in hamburger, what size holes the meat should be forced through in the grinding machine, what temperature would be best, and so on. A difference of a mere 2 degrees in the meat's temperature meant the difference between a desirable texture and one that was merely pa.s.sable.

I remember when the food scientists were first developing the ground chicken, that hundreds of people, including me, were involved in the taste testings. I also remember the first time Frank and I tried ground chicken outside of the laboratory. It happened at a barbecue at his son's house. Jim and Jan Perdue had chicken hamburgers and beef hamburgers grilling side by side, and Frank beamed like a kid with a new toy when he saw how the chicken burgers stayed plump and didn't shrink. Meanwhile the hamburgers, being 20% fat, were dwindling into hockey pucks.

Basic Cooking Guide for Burgers: Saute: Shape one package fresh ground chicken into patties. Saute in a small amount of oil over high heat, 1 to 2 minutes on each side to brown. Reduce heat to medium and continue to cook 5 to 6 minutes on each side until thoroughly cooked and springs back to the touch.

Broil: Shape one package fresh ground chicken into patties. Broil on a rack 4-inches from heat 5 to 6 minutes on each side until thoroughly cooked and springs back to the touch.

Grill: Shape one package fresh ground chicken into patties. Place burgers on hottest area of lightly oiled grill 1 to 2 minutes on each side to brown. Move burgers toward the outside of the grill and continue to cook 5 to 6 minutes on each side until thoroughly cooked and springs back to the touch.

CHICKEN STROMBOLI Serves 4 I've had this at a restaurant, made with bread dough, but I liked it better using this recipe with pie crust dough.

The day I made it, I was late (as usual), and took a short cut: I used prepared pie crusts, the kind that come frozen and already shaped in aluminum pie pans.

2 tablespoons olive oil 1-1/2 cups thinly sliced onion 1 large green pepper, thinly sliced 1 package (about 1 pound) fresh ground chicken 1/4 cup tomato paste 1 clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon salt 1 prepared recipe pie crust mix 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, melted In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add onion and pepper and saute 3 to 5 minutes. Add chicken, tomato paste and seasonings and cook 8 to 10 minutes until chicken is cooked through. Preheat oven to 375oF. Roll out prepared pie crust into a round 1/8 inch thick. Cut circle in quarters to form 4 wedge shaped pieces. Place 1/4 of filling on the wide rounded end of each wedge; fold in sides and roll up. Place stromboli seam-side down on baking sheet, brush with b.u.t.ter and bake 30 minutes until pastry is lightly browned.

CHICKEN BURGERS BORDELAISEServes 4 These are good just as they are, but I've also found that they're wonderful made into little c.o.c.ktail sized meat b.a.l.l.s to pa.s.s during parties. By the way, at one of my parties, I tried to determine whether it was better to use the maximum amount of pepper and mustard in this recipe or the minimum. Some guests liked the meat b.a.l.l.s highly seasoned, and others preferred them mild, so I guess one isn't better than the other; it's just what your family or guests like.

1 package (about 1 pound) fresh ground chicken 1 to 1-1/2 teaspoons coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper 1 tablespoon vegetable oil (optional) 1-1/4 cups red wine 1/4 cup minced shallots or scallions 1 tablespoon sugar 2-3 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 1 to 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley Form chicken into 4 burgers. Press pepper into both sides.

In a large, non-stick skillet, over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add burgers and brown for 2 minutes on each side.

Salt burgers lightly and reduce heat to medium-low.

Continue cooking 5 to 6 minutes per side until thoroughly cooked through. While burgers are cooking, combine wine, shallots, sugar, mustard and thyme in a saucepan. Cook over high heat 5 to 6 minutes until liquid is reduced to 3/4 cup. Remove burgers from skillet and keep warm. Add wine mixture to skillet and stir over medium heat to combine with pan juices. Whisk in b.u.t.ter and parsley.

Spoon sauce over burgers and serve.

RECIPES WITH THIGH & DRUMSTICKS If you haven't liked dark meat up until now, try these recipes with an open mind. Thigh meat, drumsticks, or the meat from any well-exercised muscle, has more flavor and is apt to be juicier. If Frank were going by taste alone and forgetting about calories, he would always choose thigh meat.

I was present at a taste testing at Perdue when Teri Benson, a Food Technician, asked the dozen or so partic.i.p.ants to rate the flavor of various parts of a chicken. The chicken was ground and fried in patties so none of us could identify which parts we were eating. We also couldn't be influenced by what our neighbors thought because each patty was coded and the breast meat or the thigh meat on my plate was in a different position from what they'd be on my neighbor's plate. The test was replicated with many different groups, but the results were fairly uniform: people prefer the flavor and juiciness of thigh meat. Try a few of these recipes; you may discover some new family favorites.

WALDORF SALADServes 4 You could use other apples in this recipe, such as Red Delicious or Granny Smith, but the McIntosh with its characteristic crispness, juiciness, and mildly tart flavor works particularly well in this recipe. You can tell a McIntosh by its two-toned red and green skin.

1 quart chicken broth 4 roaster boneless thigh cutlets 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1/4 cup vegetable oil 2 tablespoons minced, fresh parsley Salt and ground pepper to taste 1/2 cup celery, thinly sliced 1 to 2 McIntosh apples, unpeeled in 1/2-inch cubes (about 1 cup) 1/2 cup walnut halves 1 head Bibb or Boston lettuce In a 2 quart saucepan over medium heat, bring chicken broth to a boil. Add chicken and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes, uncovered. Drain thighs and cut into bite-size pieces. Reserve broth for other use. In a mixing bowl blend together lemon, mustard, oil, parsley, and salt and pepper. Toss warm chicken with sauce and allow to cool.

Toss with remaining ingredients and serve on beds of Bibb or Boston lettuce.

DRUMSTICKS WITH HERB SAUCEServes 2 When serving this recipe, take a tip from Bev c.o.x, a woman who not only is responsible for many of my favorite Perdue recipes over the years, but who is also famous for being one of the best food stylists around. She likes to have the garnishes mirror the seasonings, so if she had, for example, this chicken recipe with basil in it, she'd be apt to garnish it with fresh basil. She also believes that garnishes should be edible. These chicken drumsticks with new potatoes and green beans would be a simple dinner, but sprinkle the new potatoes with chopped chives, stick a red pepper ring around the green beans and you have something that looks special as well as tastes special.

5 roaster drumsticks salt and ground pepper to taste 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons olive oil Sauce: 1/4 cup minced fresh basil, or 1 tablespoon dried 1/4 cup minced, fresh parsley 1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions 2 tablespoons white vinegar 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon, or 1 teaspoon dried 1 tablespoon capers 1/4 cup olive oil Preheat oven to 375oF. Place drumsticks in a baking pan and season with salt and pepper. In a small bowl combine garlic and olive oil and baste drumsticks generously. Bake drumsticks for 60 to 75 minutes until tender and cooked through, turning and basting once. Meanwhile, in a bowl make sauce by whisking together remaining ingredients.

Serve drumsticks, pa.s.sing sauce separately.

DRUMSTICKS ZINGARAServes 2 The word "zingara" is from a French sauce with mushrooms, ham, and truffles. In this version, I've skipped the truffles.

5 roaster drumsticks 3/4 cup (3-ounces) minced fresh mushrooms 3/4 cup (1/4 pound) minced ham 1/2 cup minced shallots or scallions 3 tablespoons Madeira or brandy, divided 1 1/2 teaspoons minced, fresh tarragon, or 1/2 teaspoon dried 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or margarine, softened, divided salt and ground pepper to taste Preheat oven to 375oF. Pull back the skin of each drumstick and cut lengthwise slits in the meat in 4 places.

Pull skin back into place In a mixing bowl, combine mushrooms, ham, shallots, 1 tablespoon Madeira, tarragon, 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter and salt and pepper. Stuff mixture under the skin of each drumstick and secure with toothpicks. Melt remaining b.u.t.ter and baste drumsticks.

Bake for 60 to 75 minutes or until tender and cooked through. Remove to a serving platter and remove toothpicks. To drippings in pan, add 2 tablespoons Madeira and bring to a boil, stirring. Pour sauce over drumsticks.

CHILI THIGHS RELLENOS If you're making this recipe and you're not sure how old the eggs you have in your refrigerator are, the chances are that they're still good. As long as they're clean, dry, have been kept cold and have no cracks, and weren't cooked, they'll last for months in your refrigerator and still be suitable for cooking in dishes like this. Eggs that are several months old won't have the quality of a perfectly fresh egg, and I wouldn't use them for frying, but they're still edible. Do be sure they've been kept cold and have no cracks and are clean.

4 roaster boneless thigh cutlets 1 can (4-ounces) whole, mild green chilies, seeded 1 egg, beaten salt and ground pepper to taste 1/2 cup seasoned bread crumbs 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter or margarine 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 can (8-ounces) tomato sauce 1/2 cup shredded Monterey Jack Cheese Open thighs and lay flat. Divide chilies in four equal amounts and place in the center of each thigh. Roll up and secure with toothpicks. In a shallow bowl, combine egg and salt and pepper to taste. Dip thighs in egg and roll in bread crumbs. Refrigerate 15 minutes. In a large skillet, over medium heat, melt b.u.t.ter with oil. Add thighs and cook, turning, 10 to 12 minutes or until brown on all sides. Spoon tomato sauce over thighs. Reduce heat to medium-low reduce heat and cover. Cook for 20 minutes or until thighs are cooked through. Sprinkle with cheese; cover and cook 2 minutes longer.

INDONESIAN STIR-FRY THIGHSServes 4 This recipe originally called for much more ginger, but I like a milder flavor, so I reduced it. You may want to increase the amount suggested here if you like highly seasoned food. To store fresh ginger, keep it in the refrigerator in a plastic bag along with a dampened paper towel to keep it from drying out.

4 roaster boneless thigh cutlets 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil 1/3 cup soy sauce, divided 3 tablespoons mola.s.ses 3 tablespoons rice wine or white distilled vinegar 2 teaspoons minced, fresh ginger or to taste 1 clove garlic, minced 1/4 teaspoon salt or to taste 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes or ground pepper pinch ground cloves 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 cup carrots, cut in match stick strips 1 cup peeled cuc.u.mber, halved, seeded and cut into match- stick strips 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions Cut thighs into 1/8-inch strips. In a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add chicken and stir-fry for 2 minutes Add 4 tablespoons soy sauce, mola.s.ses, vinegar, seasonings, garlic and ginger; bring to a boil.

Cover, reduce heat to medium-low and steam chicken 5 minutes, stirring once, until tender. In a small bowl dissolve cornstarch in remaining soy sauce and reserve. Add carrots and steam, covered, 2 minutes. Stir in cuc.u.mber, scallions and cornstarch mixture and stir until liquid comes to a boil. Serve over hot fluffy rice.