The Old Pike Part 34

[Ill.u.s.tration: MRS. SARAH BECK.]

One mile west of Roney's Point, on the south side, stood an old frame tavern, which, in the eventful days of the road gathered in its share of glory. It was kept first by John Bentley, and after him by James Kimberly. In addition to the custom it gained from the road, this house was a favorite resort of the young rural residents, male and female, of that portion of Old Virginia, and here they were accustomed to go for a night's festivity, always confining themselves within the bounds of propriety, but within those bounds enjoying themselves in a high degree.

There is many a gray-haired veteran living in the vicinity now, of both s.e.xes, whose memories revert with pleasure to the exciting and exhilarating scenes they witnessed and partic.i.p.ated in, at John Bentley's old tavern.

One mile further west, Triadelphia is reached, a small village, and like many others, the outgrowth of the National Road. Here John D. Foster kept a tavern at an early day, and very old pike boys say it was a good one. It was a frame building on the north side of the road. The old landlord is said to have been courteous in deportment, given to hospitality, and scrupulously observant of the proprieties of life. His daughter, Mary, became the wife of C. S. Malt by, the celebrated oyster dealer of Baltimore. The first parties who shipped oysters over the road by express were Nicholas Roe, Edward Wright, and Holt and Malt by. The latter firm soon obtained entire control of the business, and made a fortune in it. Malt by died within the past two years in Connecticut, and Holt was killed in a railroad accident in Virginia in 1852. Colonel Thompson also kept a tavern in Triadelphia in an early day. His house was a frame building, on the north side. Colonel Thompson was a gentleman of the old Virginia school, and a fine type of the genial landlord. He ceased keeping this house previous to 1840, and was succeeded by William Barnes, who in turn was succeeded by Edward Lane, and Lane by Frank Lawson. This house was largely patronized by pleasure seekers from Wheeling and other places, beside doing an extensive road business, and enjoyed an excellent reputation as a hostelry.

Three miles further west the old tavern of Mrs. Gooding, another widow, is reached. The site of this old tavern is now covered by the flourishing village of Elm Grove. Mrs. Gooding had a wide fame as a hostess, and her house was crowded by patrons. It is a stone building, still standing, situate on the south side of the road. Old wagoners to this day, enthuse over the sumptuousness of the widow Coding's table.

Sleighing parties from Wheeling frequented this old tavern in the halcyon days of the road, and were handsomely entertained.

"Oh, the songs they would sing, and the tales they would spin, As they lounged in the light of the old country inn.

But a day came at last when the stage brought no load To the gate, as it rolled up the long, dusty road.

And lo! at the sunrise a shrill whistle blew O'er the hills--and the old yielded place to the new-- And a merciless age with its discord and din Made wreck, as it pa.s.sed, of the pioneer inn."

Before reaching Mrs. Coding's the Clay Monument is pa.s.sed. This monument was erected by Moses Shepherd and Lydia, his wife, under an inspiration of personal admiration of the great statesman, and with a further view of commemorating his distinguished public services in behalf of the road. It is of free stone, located upon a level piece of ground about fifty feet south of the east end of a stone bridge of three arches, over Wheeling creek. At its base its circ.u.mference is twenty-four feet, towering to a height of twenty feet, and surmounted by a chiselled figure of the G.o.ddess of Liberty, at this date bearing plain evidences of the ravages of time and storm. Originally each of the four sides of the base column revealed an elaborate inscription, but all are totally effaced now, except the one on the east side, which is as follows: "TIME will bring every amelioration and refinement, most gratifying to rational man, and the humblest flower freely plucked under the shelter of the Tree of Liberty, is more to be desired than all the trappings of royalty; 44th year of American Independence, Anni Domini, 1820." The word TIME stands out in bold relief over the other words quoted. John Awry, of Claysville, and Alexander Ramsey, of Washington, two old and well remembered stone-cutters, worked on this monument. The former did most of the carving, in which he was an expert, and the latter much of the fine chiselling. Ramsey was the father-in-law of William G. Beck, the old stage driver previously mentioned.

On a picturesque eminence, near the monument, overlooking Big Wheeling creek, stands the ancient and historic Shepherd mansion, a stone building erected in 1798, and now known as "Monument Place," the delightful and hospitable home of Maj. Alonzo Louring. In the olden time, when the National Road was the bustling highway of the Republic, the handsome and luxurious stage coaches of the period, frequently bore Henry Clay and other eminent men of his day to the Shepherd mansion, where they revealed in Old Virginia hospitality.

Near the old Shepherd mansion stands an antiquated sun dial, covered with the marks of time, and bearing on its south face this inscription:

"The noiseless foot of TIME steals softly by, And ere we think of MANHOOD age draws nigh."

[Ill.u.s.tration: COL. MOSES SHEPHERD.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: MRS. LYDIA SHEPHERD.]

On the north face of this dial appear the names and the figures: "Moses and Lydia Shepherd, 1820." Col. Moses Shepherd died in 1832, and his widow subsequently married Gen. Daniel Kruger, whom she also survived many years. They are all now dead, and their mortal remains mingle with their native dust, in the cemetery attached to the "Stone Church," near Elm Grove. A handsome monument stands at their graves bearing the following inscriptions: On one side, "_Sic Transit Gloria Mandi_: Sacred to the memory of Col. Moses Shepherd, who departed this life April 29th, 1832, in the 69th year of his age." "To him the country owes a large debt of grat.i.tude, as well for his defense of it, when a frontier settlement, as for his recent public services in aiding the extension and construction of the c.u.mBERLAND ROAD through Virginia." The obverse side tells the story of the second husband, as follows: "_Sic Transit Gloria Mandi_: Sacred to the memory of Gen. Daniel Kruger, who died July 12th, 1843, in the 64th year of his age." A third side perpetuates the memory of the twice bereaved widow as follows: "_Sic Transit Gloria Mandi_: Lydia S. Kruger, wife of Gen. Daniel Kruger, formerly Lydia S. Bogs, first married Col. Moses Shepherd: Born Feb.

26th, 1766: Died Sept. 26th, 1867, in the 102d year of her age." High up on the granite shaft is chiselled on two sides the picture of a log cabin, and at the door appears a female figure in sitting posture, with a dog in repose at the feet, while in the back ground is seen the representation of a martial group, with branches of a palm tree overhanging the whole design.

A short distance west from widow Goodings, Samuel Carter kept a tavern as early as 1830. It was a brick house on the south side of the road, a resort for pleasure seekers from Wheeling, and a well kept house. This house was subsequently kept by William Strawn.

About one mile west of Carter's, Michael Blackburn kept a tavern in the olden time, and was well favored with custom. It was a stone house on the north side of the road.

Next comes Steenrod's, two miles out from Wheeling, a brick and stone building on the south side of the road, and a widely known old tavern.

Daniel Steenrod, the old landlord, owned the property, and was a man of intelligence and much influence. His son, Lewis, represented the Wheeling district in Congress during the prosperous era of the road, and, as before stated, was one of its most zealous champions. Lewis Steenrod, a grandson of the old landlord, is at this time (1892), High Sheriff of Ohio county, West Virginia, and on November 18th of this year, executed Maier, the murderer. Daniel Steenrod kept the old tavern last mentioned as early as 1825, and probably before that date, and continued throughout the whole period of the road's great career as a national highway. He died April 27th, 1864, aged eighty years. The property still remains in the Steenrod family.

A short distance from Steenrod's, on the north side, was "Good's Bottom," now called Pleasant Valley, doubtless by reason of the frantic iconoclasm, which has lain its ruthless hands on so many old and familiar names. At Good's Bottom there was a race course in early times, and it was here, and previous to 1840, that the celebrated horse "Tariff" lost his laurels. "Tariff" was owned by Thomas Porter, a farmer and stock man of Claysville. Joseph White, the well known marble dealer of Uniontown, a native of the vicinity of Claysville, was a witness of the discomfiture of "Tariff" on the old race course at Good's Bottom.

And now, after a long journey of two hundred and sixty miles, the city of Wheeling is reached. Wheeling was the western terminus of the road, in contemplation of the Act of Congress of March 29th, 1806, given in a previous chapter. John McCortney kept the most noted wagon stand in Wheeling. He was likewise a commission merchant, which further identified him with old wagoners, enabling him to furnish them with back loads. His tavern was located on Main street, running back east on Fourteenth to alley B, parallel with, and between Main and Market, with ample grounds surrounding it for wagons and teams to stand on. These grounds were so extensive that they accommodated the old time circus, in addition to wagons and teams of the road, and two distinct circuses have been known to exhibit on them at the same time. They were not of the modern "triple ring" order, but of the Dan Rice design. McCortney was a man of agreeable manners, and managed his extensive business with marked success. He died in Wheeling on December 10th, 1872, aged seventy-nine years. He was three times married. His last wife was the widow of William H. Stelle, one of the proprietors of the Good Intent stage line.

Martin b.u.g.g.e.r was McCartney's bar-keeper for many years, and is remembered by old wagoners as a rival of Wilse Clement in hard swearing.

On lower Water street, Robert Newlove kept a wagon stand, and was well liked by old wagoners, and well patronized by them. He was the owner of wagons and teams, which he kept on the road, in charge of hired drivers.

In 1829 Richard Simms, the old stage proprietor, kept the United States hotel, and was its owner. James Beck kept this house after Simms, and James Dennison after Beck. James McCray kept it next after Dennison, and Mordecai Yarnell next after McCray. The Monroe House, on Monroe, now Tenth street, was kept in 1830 by John McClure, and subsequently by James Matthers. The Virginia House was kept in 1830 by John Graham, and afterward by one Beltsville, and later by Jacob Kline. Beltsville and Kline came out from Baltimore. The United States, the Monroe and the Virginia, were stage stations. On upper Main street, in 1830, Moses Mossier kept a tavern, and on the same street, and at the same time, a tavern was kept by Mrs. Beamer, widow of Captain Frederic Beamer, a.s.sisted by her son, Samuel, who was a soldier of 1812. Capt. Frederic Beamer kept a tavern in Wheeling as early as the year 1802, at the sign of the Wagon, and took boarders at two piastres a week. The town council of Wheeling met in Capt. Beamers tavern in 1806. The house that Widow Beamer presided over as hostess, is a brick building, on the southwest corner of Main and Ninth streets, on a lot bordering the river. This house is still standing, but has not been used as a tavern for many years. Beamers old Landing was at the foot of Ninth street, where the National Road approached the Ohio river. In 1830 Joseph Teeters kept a wagon stand in Wheeling, below McCartney's, and John Bradfield kept a similar stand on Water street in 1837-8. The mysterious disappearance of a man by the name of Cooper from the Mossier House about 1840, produced a local sensation, followed by an accusation of foul play and a charge of murder. Cooper, in company with a friend and neighbor by the name of Long, put up together one evening at the Mossier House, and on the next morning Cooper was missing. The two had come in from Ohio, and were going to Washington county, Pennsylvania, where they were born and raised, to visit relatives and old friends. It appears that Cooper rose early and took an outgoing coach back to Ohio without notifying his traveling companion or any one else. A dead body was found in the river and identified as that of Cooper; and Long, after reaching his destination, was arrested for murder and lodged in the Washington jail.

The Virginia authorities made no requisition for him, and he was finally discharged, and settled in Michigan. A few years afterward, Cooper was discovered in Indianapolis, sound and well.

[Ill.u.s.tration: JOHN McCORTNEY.]

The Forsyth's of Wheeling, James H. and his son Leonard, were prominently identified with the destinies of the National Road. The commission house of James H. Forsythe & Co. was a leading establishment of its kind. James H. Forsythe, the senior member of this old firm, was noted for his energy and clear-hoodedness. He could converse with any number of persons, and indite a letter at the same time, without being in any wise confused. His son, Leonard, was also well known on the road.

He conducted commission houses at Brownsville and c.u.mberland, and very often pa.s.sed over the road, in the management of his business. He is now living in Texas near Austin, and feels a deep interest in the history of the road.

W. L. McNeil, of Wheeling, when a young man, had a brief experience as a wagoner. He drove several trips for Thomas Darkly, who was a merchant with stores in Baltimore and Wheeling, and is well remembered by old pike boys. McNeil "put up" at Natty Brownfield's, in Uniontown, when driving Drake's team, a half a century and longer ago, and has never forgotten the good entertainment he enjoyed at that old tavern.

The old tavern keepers of the National Road were a remarkable body of men. In many instances they were free holders, men well posted in current affairs, and influential in their respective neighbourhoods.

They were honorable in their dealings, and believed that every man's word should be as good as his bond. As caterers they made no display.

They had no bills of fare, printed on gilt edged paper, or fine linen, and it is doubtful if any one of them ever heard the modern word _Menu_, yet the spreads of their generous boards would almost kindle exhilaration in the heart of a misanthrope. The thought may be attributable to change of time or circ.u.mstance, or taste, or all together, but there is an immovable conviction in the mind of the writer of these pages, that the viands of modern hotels, lack the savouriness of those of the old taverns of the National Road.

CHAPTER XLI.

_West of Wheeling--Old Stage Lines Beyond the Ohio River--William Neil--Gen. N. P. Flamage--Stage Stations--Old Taverns and Tavern Keepers--Rev. Doctor Cinnabar and "Sunset" c.o.x were old Pike Boys--Lively Times in Guernsey--Crossing another State line--Sycamore Valley--Old Taverns in Richmond--A link out--Centerville--Dublin--Through Indiana--The Road Disappears among the Prairies of Illinois._

It is estimated that two-fifths of the trade and travel of the road were diverted at Brownsville, and fell into the channel furnished at that point by the slack water improvement of the Monongahela river, and a like proportion descended the Ohio from Wheeling, and the remaining fifth continued on the road to Columbus, Ohio, and points further west.

The travel west of Wheeling was chiefly local, and the road presented scarcely a t.i.the of the thrift, push, whirl and excitement which characterized it, east of that point; and there was a corresponding lack of incident, accident and anecdote on the extreme western division. The distance from Wheeling to Columbus is one hundred and twenty-nine miles, and the road enters the capital of Ohio by way of High street. Before the era of railroads Columbus derived its chief business from the National Road.

Neil, Moore & Co. operated a line of stage coaches between Wheeling and Columbus prior to, and for some time after, the year 1840, and their line extended west as far as Springfield. Daniel Moore, of Washington, Pennsylvania, and his son Henry, composed the Moore end of this old Ohio Stage Company. Henry Moore subsequently located in Baltimore, and died there. His father died in Washington, Pennsylvania, more than half a century ago. John Scott, of Washington, Pennsylvania, antedates Daniel Moore as a stage proprietor. He ran a line of coaches between Washington and Wheeling as early as the year 1810, on an old road between those points, which was used previous to the construction of the National Road, and had the contract for carrying the United States mails.

William Neil, the old stage proprietor, was the projector and owner of the Neil House, the leading hotel of Columbus. He was the possessor of large means, enhanced by holdings of large tracts of fertile land near Columbus, which he acquired at low figures in an early day. It is said his manners were not of the _suave_ order, but he was noted for energy and shrewdness. One who knew him says of him, that "he was honest in his dealings, somewhat rough in his ways, but an energetic, pushing man, who made things move." This description fits many of the old pike boys.

Gen. N. P. Flamage, of whom further mention is made hereafter, owned and operated a line of coaches also between Wheeling and Columbus, and made things lively along the road. He called his line the "Good Intent."

John Weaver, as before stated, transferred his old line of coaches called the "Peoples," from the eastern to the Ohio portion of the road.

There was considerable compet.i.tion between these old lines, but not comparable to that of the old lines east of Wheeling. The stage stations between Wheeling and Columbus were: St. Gainesville, Morristown, Fairview, Washington, Cambridge, Concord, Zanesville, Gratiot, named in honor of Brig. Gen. Gratiot, before mentioned; Jackson, Etna and Reynolds burg.

Among the old tavern keepers west of Wheeling, the following were prominent and well known in the olden time: Moses Rhodes kept at Bridgeport, and hailed the west-bound traveler on his entrance to the borders of the State of Ohio. A short distance further west, one Cusic, and after him Nicol's, in the same old tavern, ministered to the wants of the traveler on the nation's old highway. A short drive from Nicols'

brought the wayfarer to the house of Chambers, ever ready to wait upon the public, and a little beyond was the Woodman's house, kept by Isaac Cleaves, who afterward hung up his sign at a house further west. Pa.s.sing Woodman's, the next old tavern was McMahon's, a veritable son of Erin, overflowing with native generosity. This part of the road seems to have been an Irish row, since the next old tavern, after pa.s.sing McMahon's, was kept by one McCray. A short distance west of McCray's the town of St. Gainesville comes in view, one of the oldest towns of Ohio, the seat of justice for Belmont county, and named in honor of the ill.u.s.trious old Westmoreland county, Pennsylvania, soldier and patriot, Gen. Arthur St.

Clair.

In St. Gainesville, James Smith kept the stage office, and bowed in genuine old pike style to the coming and going pa.s.sengers. One mile west of St. Gainesville, an old German, or Swede, bearing the non-musical name of Sw.a.n.ker, or something like it, kept a tavern, and, according to tradition, a good one. His house was a fine brick building, on the north side of the road. One mile further west, one Hoover entertained the traveling public, and beyond him, one Chamberlain presided over a good old tavern.

The village of Louisville is next reached, which, of course, had its tavern, as all villages have, and probably more than one; but the old wagoner who furnished most of the data for this chapter could not recall the names of the old proprietors thereof. It was a long time ago that he drove a team on the road, and he is verging upon his ninetieth year, and therefore not to be censured for forgetfulness.

The writer found more difficulty in obtaining information concerning this portion of the road than any other. In fact, he admits his failure to obtain the necessary data for producing an accurate history of it. He wrote to all the postmasters on the Ohio line east of Columbus, for information concerning the road, and no response came, except in one instance, and that was to a letter which reached a wrong destination. It was addressed to the postmaster at Jackson, a village on the road, called "Jacktown" by the old pike boys, and found its way to the postmaster of Jackson, Jackson county, a considerable distance south of the National Road. It happened that the postmaster who received this letter was a native of Brownsville, Fayette county, Pennsylvania, a member of the old Sloan family of that place, but he was so far away from the road that he could furnish no information concerning it. He, at least, was courteous, a trait for which he is indebted, probably, to the circ.u.mstance of his nativity. A self-important postmaster, especially of a little town, like the political carpet-bagger, has no respect for ancient landmarks.

Moving on westwardly, the next point reached is Morristown, the second stage station west of Wheeling. This town was at its best when the National Road was the leading avenue of trade and travel. John Barnum and John Lipping were the old tavern keepers of Morristown, and took pride in scanning the old way bills, and catering to the wants of hungry stage pa.s.sengers.

One mile west of Morristown Christopher Hoover hung out his old sign board in front of a substantial brick house, on the south side of the road, and a short distance beyond, n.o.ble Taylor, a combination of familiar old pike names, entertained the traveling public.

The village of Hindenburg is next reached. This place is on the dividing line between Belmont and Guernsey counties. It is not and never was a pretentious town, but its old inhabitants derived much comfort, and not a little pleasure, from advantages afforded by the National Road.

Pa.s.sing one or more old taverns whose occupants and owners cannot be recalled, the traveler comes upon the town of Fairview, a stirring place in the palmy days of the road. There William Bradshaw was a popular tavern keeper. He and Isaac Cleaves, formerly of the Woodman's House, near Wheeling, were the leading tavern keepers in Fairview fifty years ago.

West of Fairview the old tavern keepers were: William Armstrong, Joseph Ferrell and Alexander Taylor.

Middletown is next reached, and here Thomas Hays and one Thompson each kept a tavern in the olden time, and gladdened the heart of many a weary traveler.

West of Middletown the roll bears the names of Alter Briggs and Alexander Speers.

Samuel Smith kept the old tavern at Elizabeth town. West of Elizabeth town, one Cray ton kept a tavern, and beyond him Widow Drake. The widows never surrender.