The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Part 27

It is customary during periods of general festivity for every housewife to prepare mountains of a.s.sorted pastries on large trays, to be sent to relatives and friends. She duly receives as many in return. On important family occasions, relatives and friends come, days before the party, to help the hostess prepare a large variety of delicacies. Sometimes an itinerant cook is called in to make one or two specialties for which she is famous, and then moves on to another house to make the same dish again. We always knew beforehand if we were to be served Rachele's ataif or ataif or Nabiha's Nabiha's karabij karabij or or konafa a la creme konafa a la creme, and we could rejoice at the thought.

ARAB SAYING:.

"He who fills his stomach with melons is like him who fills it with light- there is there is baraka baraka (a blessing) in them." (a blessing) in them."

Fruit In the traditional Arab house with an interior garden, there are always fruit trees, and the scent of their blossoms is one of the pleasures. It is from the Persians that the Arabs absorbed their love of fruit trees and the notion that paradise was an orchard.

There are figs, p.r.i.c.kly pears, apricots, dates, grapes, physalis (cape gooseberries), melons and watermelons, mangoes and guavas, custard apples and pomegranates, peaches, plums, cherries, medlars and bananas, apples and pears, tangerines and oranges.

For a party, make a beautiful arrangement with a selection of fruits-some left whole, some peeled and cut up.

Another tradition is to offer dried fruit and nuts or fruit preserves with coffee.

Rose-Scented Fruit Salad Peel where necessary and cut up a variety of fruits, such as melon, mango, bananas, oranges, apples, pears, apricots, nectarines, strawberries, seedless grapes, kiwis, cherries, and pineapple.

Sprinkle with a mixture of sugar, lemon juice, and rose water. To serve 6, you may like 4-6 tablespoons sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, and 1-2 tablespoons rose water. Leave to macerate for at least an hour before serving, turning over the fruit a few times. The sugar will draw out their juice to form a fragrant syrup.

Orange Slices in Orange Syrup Serves 4 * The orange zest and the orange-blossom water give a delicate fragrance to the syrup. * The orange zest and the orange-blossom water give a delicate fragrance to the syrup.

The zest of 2 oranges 2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice cup sugar 1 tablespoon orange-blossom water 6 oranges Grate the zest, and put it in a pan with the orange juice and sugar. Bring to the boil, and stir until the sugar has dissolved, then add the orange-blossom water.

Peel the oranges so that no pith remains, and cut them into thick slices. Put them in a serving bowl and pour the orange syrup on top.

Serve cold.

RIDDLE:.

She is the beautiful daughter of a handsome man. Her beauty is that of the moon. Her children are in her bosom, and her dwelling is high. Who is she?

ANSWER:.

An orange.

Kaymakli Kayisi Tatlisi Apricots Stuffed with Cream Serves 4-6 * You need to use large dried apricots for this famous Turkish sweet. The cream used in Turkey is the thick * You need to use large dried apricots for this famous Turkish sweet. The cream used in Turkey is the thick kaymak kaymak made from water buffaloes' milk (see box below). The best alternatives are clotted cream and mascarpone. made from water buffaloes' milk (see box below). The best alternatives are clotted cream and mascarpone.

pound large dried apricots, soaked in water for 1 hour or overnight cups water 1 cups sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon rose water 1 cup kaymak kaymak, clotted cream, or mascarpone 3 tablespoons finely chopped pistachios Drain the apricots. Make a syrup by boiling the water with the sugar and lemon juice. Add the rose water and the apricots and simmer for 10-15 minutes, then leave to cool.

Make a slit along one side of each apricot and stuff with a little of the cream or mascarpone.

Arrange on a dish and serve sprinkled with chopped pistachios.

Bademli Kayisi Baked Apricots Stuffed with Almond Paste Serves 6 * The special appeal here is the contrast between the tartness of the apricots and the sweetness of the almond paste. * The special appeal here is the contrast between the tartness of the apricots and the sweetness of the almond paste.

large ripe but firm apricots 1 cup blanched almonds cup superfine sugar 3 tablespoons rose water Make a slit in each apricot and remove the pit.

Blend the almonds, sugar, and rose water to a soft paste in the food processor. Take lumps the size of a small walnut and roll them into b.a.l.l.s. Push them into the apricot slits, and press the apricots to squeeze the filling gently.

Arrange the stuffed fruits on a heatproof dish and bake in a preheated 350F oven for about 20 minutes, or until they have softened a little. Keep an eye on them, and remove if they start to fall apart too quickly.

Serve hot or cold.

Khoshaf bil Mishmish Macerated Apricots and Nuts Serves 6 * This delicately fragrant sweet is an old Syrian specialty of Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting, when it is eaten to break the daily fast. It keeps very well for days, even weeks, covered with plastic wrap in the refrigerator. * This delicately fragrant sweet is an old Syrian specialty of Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting, when it is eaten to break the daily fast. It keeps very well for days, even weeks, covered with plastic wrap in the refrigerator.

1.

pound dried apricots 3 cups water cup raisins (optional) cup blanched almonds 2tablespoons pine nuts 2 tablespoons coa.r.s.ely chopped pistachios 1tablespoon rose water

2.

tablespoons sugar (optional) Soak the apricots in the water overnight.

Drain and reserve the soaking water. Take a dozen of the apricots and blend to a light puree with the water in a food processor. Return to the remaining apricots in a serving bowl and stir in the rest of the ingredients.

Serve chilled.

Khoshaf el Yameesh Macerated Dried Fruit and Nut Salad Serves 6 * A mixed dried fruit salad with nuts is a favorite in Egypt during Ramadan, the month-long fast, when Muslims fast during the day and eat after sunset. All through the day, people, hungry and listless, are hardly able to work, and dream of what they would like to eat. At nightfall, when the sky is a cherry red, the cannons boom through the cities signaling the end of the fast, and the muezzins sing it out from all the minarets. The silent city suddenly comes alive with the clatter of spoons and plates, gla.s.ses and jugs, and with the sound of relieved hunger and laughter, of music and merry-making. The longed-for dishes wait on tables, trays, and the floor, piled high with * A mixed dried fruit salad with nuts is a favorite in Egypt during Ramadan, the month-long fast, when Muslims fast during the day and eat after sunset. All through the day, people, hungry and listless, are hardly able to work, and dream of what they would like to eat. At nightfall, when the sky is a cherry red, the cannons boom through the cities signaling the end of the fast, and the muezzins sing it out from all the minarets. The silent city suddenly comes alive with the clatter of spoons and plates, gla.s.ses and jugs, and with the sound of relieved hunger and laughter, of music and merry-making. The longed-for dishes wait on tables, trays, and the floor, piled high with ful medames, falafel ful medames, falafel, and bamia bamia, meatb.a.l.l.s and kebabs, khoshaf khoshafand apricot cream (following recipe).

Every family has its favorite combinations of dried fruits.

11/2 pounds mixed dried fruit: dried apricots, prunes, pitted sour cherries, and raisins pounds mixed dried fruit: dried apricots, prunes, pitted sour cherries, and raisins cup blanched almonds, halved cup blanched pistachio nuts or pine nuts or a mixture -1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon rose water 1 tablespoon orange-blossom water Wash the fruits if necessary, and put them all in a large bowl. Mix with the nuts and cover with water. Add sugar to taste, and rose and orange-blossom water.

Let the fruits soak for at least 48 hours. The syrup becomes rich with the juices of the fruit and acquires a light-golden color.

Variations 1. * A less common version is to add dried figs and peaches, and a few fresh pomegranate seeds. Their luminosity brings out the rich orange, mauve, and brown of the fruit, and the white and green of the nuts.

2. * Some people dissolve amareldine amareldine (sheets of dried, compressed apricot) in the water to thicken and enrich it. Putting 3 soaked apricots through the food processor with a little water will achieve the same effect. (sheets of dried, compressed apricot) in the water to thicken and enrich it. Putting 3 soaked apricots through the food processor with a little water will achieve the same effect.

3. * Instead of macerating, you can cook the fruit with the nuts and almonds. Simmer gently for about hour. It becomes a compote.

Amareldine Matboukh Apricot Cream Serves 6 * Another Ramadan specialty in Egypt is a cream made of sheets of dried pressed apricots * Another Ramadan specialty in Egypt is a cream made of sheets of dried pressed apricots (amareldine) (amareldine) soaked, then boiled in water. I was in Cairo during the Ramadan month a few years ago and saw hundreds of bowls of this tart-tasting fruit cream offered free at street parties. The sheets of soaked, then boiled in water. I was in Cairo during the Ramadan month a few years ago and saw hundreds of bowls of this tart-tasting fruit cream offered free at street parties. The sheets of amareldine amareldine available these days do not have the pure taste they once had- perhaps due to preservatives. It is better to use natural dried apricots. Pistachios or almonds and thick cream are optional embellishments. Sometimes cornstarch is used to give the cream the texture of jelly. For this, see the variation. available these days do not have the pure taste they once had- perhaps due to preservatives. It is better to use natural dried apricots. Pistachios or almonds and thick cream are optional embellishments. Sometimes cornstarch is used to give the cream the texture of jelly. For this, see the variation.

1 pound dried natural unsweetened apricots 3 cups water 1 tablespoon orange-blossom or rose water, or to taste Juice of lemon 1-2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste 1/2- cup coa.r.s.ely chopped pistachios or cup coa.r.s.ely chopped pistachios or almonds 1 cup whipped heavy cream or yogurt to serve with Soak the apricots overnight in the water to cover. Put them through a blender or food processor, with enough of their soaking water to have a thick puree, adding orange-blossom water, lemon juice, and sugar to taste. If you like, stir in half the pistachios or almonds. Otherwise use them all as a garnish.

Serve chilled, sprinkled with the remaining pistachios or almonds, accompanied by whipped heavy cream or yogurt.

Variation For Syrian muhallabeya amareldine muhallabeya amareldine, which has a jellylike texture: Dissolve 2 tablespoons corn-starch in cup water and add it to the apricot puree in a pan. Bring to the boil slowly, stirring constantly, then simmer, stirring, until the mixture thickens. Stir in the almonds and pistachios and pour into a bowl. Serve chilled.

Prunes Stuffed with Walnuts in Orange Juice Serves 6-8 * We used to soak the prunes overnight in tea to make pitting easier. Now pitted ones are available, but stuffing them still takes time. I watch television or listen to music while I do this. I prefer the dessert without the cream topping. Either way, it keeps very well for days. * We used to soak the prunes overnight in tea to make pitting easier. Now pitted ones are available, but stuffing them still takes time. I watch television or listen to music while I do this. I prefer the dessert without the cream topping. Either way, it keeps very well for days.

1.

pound pitted prunes (the moist California or French type) 1 cups walnut halves

2.

cups freshly squeezed orange juice FOR THE THE OPTIONAL TOPPING OR ACCOMPANIMENT OPTIONAL TOPPING OR ACCOMPANIMENT.

1 cups heavy cream 2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon rose or orange-blossom water Make the hole in each prune a little wider with your finger and stuff each with a walnut half. Put them in a pan, cover with orange juice, and simmer over low heat for 20-30 minutes, or until they are soft, adding a little water if they become too dry. Serve chilled as they are, or with the topping.

For the optional topping, whip the cream until it thickens, and add sugar and rose water. Pour all over the prunes and chill together before serving, or pa.s.s round in a bowl for people to help themselves.

Variation Instead of orange juice, use a half-and-half mixture of water and red wine. This was done in Jewish households.

Visneli Ekmek Tatlisi Stewed Cherries on Bread Serves 8*I love this simple Turkish sweet, which is also made with apricots (see variation). I use a brioche-type bread for the base. love this simple Turkish sweet, which is also made with apricots (see variation). I use a brioche-type bread for the base.

8 large slices bread, about inch thick 2 pounds sour cherries or black cherries 12 ounce jar of morello or black-cherry jam Juice of -1 lemon 1 cups kaymak kaymak (page 407) or clotted or extra-thick heavy cream, mascarpone, or thick strained yogurt to serve with Trim the crusts off the bread and toast the slices in the oven until lightly golden. Wash and drain the cherries and remove the stems.

Put the jam in a large pan with fa fa cup water and bring to the boil (you may use a "reduced-sugar" jam). Add the cherries and lemon juice, and simmer gently for 20 minutes, or until the cherries are soft. Let them cool, and strain the juice into a bowl. cup water and bring to the boil (you may use a "reduced-sugar" jam). Add the cherries and lemon juice, and simmer gently for 20 minutes, or until the cherries are soft. Let them cool, and strain the juice into a bowl.

Arrange the toasted bread on a flat serving platter and ladle a little juice over each piece, soaking the bread so that it is soft but not so that it falls apart. Top with the stewed cherries and serve with the cream.

Variation A similar sweet is made with apricots. Pit 2 pounds apricots, put them, ajar of apricot jam, the juice of lemon, and cup water in a large saucepan. Cook, stirring, for a few minutes, until the apricots begin to soften, and continue as above.

Quinces Poached in Syrup Serves 4-8 * You will find quinces in Middle Eastern grocers from October until February and longer. Large ones can weigh as much as 1 pound. Try the variation too. I love * You will find quinces in Middle Eastern grocers from October until February and longer. Large ones can weigh as much as 1 pound. Try the variation too. I love it it.

2 large or 4 small quinces, weighing about 2 pounds total Juice of lemon 1 cup sugar cup kaymak (page 407), clotted cream, mascarpone, or heavy cream Wash the quinces and scrub to remove the light down that covers their skin in patches. Cut them in half through the core, but do not peel them. The fruit is extremely hard, so you will need a strong knife and a lot of strength. You do not need to core them, and the pips are important, as they produce a wonderful red jelly. Cook the quinces as soon as they are cut, as the flesh discolors quickly.

Have ready a pan of boiling water-about 3-4 cups-with the lemon juice and sugar. Put in the fruit, cut side down, and simmer until the fruit is tender and the syrup turns into a reddish jelly. The time varies greatly, from 20 to 60 minutes, for the fruit to be tender, and the syrup can take more than an hour to turn into a reddish jelly. You have to watch the fruit so that it does not fall apart. If it becomes tender too quickly, lift out, reduce the syrup by simmering, then return the fruit to the pan and cook until the syrup becomes reddish and thick. The thickened syrup has a hardening effect and prevents the fruit from falling apart.

Arrange the quince halves, cut side up, on a serving dish, and pour the syrup on top. It will turn into a jelly when it cools. Serve chilled or at room temperature with dollops of kaymak kaymak, clotted cream, mascarpone, or whipped heavy cream.

Variation This roast caramelized quince is wonderful and easy. Bake the quinces whole, in a 375F oven, for about 1 -2 hours (the time varies depending on their size and ripeness), or until they feel soft. Cut them in half through the core and put them, cut side up, in a shallow baking dish. Put a sliver of b.u.t.ter and sprinkle 2 tablespoons of sugar on top of each half. Put under the broiler for a few minutes, until the sugar has turned a dark brown and filled the kitchen with a sweet smell.

Pumpkin Dessert Serves 4 * A much-loved Turkish dessert. You can find the large orange-fleshed pumpkins sold in slices in Middle Eastern and Indian stores. * A much-loved Turkish dessert. You can find the large orange-fleshed pumpkins sold in slices in Middle Eastern and Indian stores.

1 pound pumpkin (weight without stringy parts and seeds) V4- V4- cup sugar 1 cup finely chopped walnuts 1/ cup sugar 1 cup finely chopped walnuts 1/2- cup cup kaymak kaymak (page 407) or clotted (page 407) or clotted cream (optional) cream (optional) Cut off the rind, remove the pips, and cut away the stringy bits. Cut the pumpkin into pieces of about 1 inches. Put them in a wide saucepan with about cup water and cook with a tight lid on (so that they steam) over low heat for about 15 minutes, or until tender. The pumpkin will release its own juice.

Add the sugar, and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes, or until the sugar has melted and the syrup is reduced, turning over the pumpkin.

Serve cold, sprinkled with chopped walnuts. If you like, accompany with kaymak kaymak or clotted cream. or clotted cream.

Moz wal Balah Date and Banana Dessert Serves 6 * This is something we used to make in Egypt. Use a moist variety of dried dates. * This is something we used to make in Egypt. Use a moist variety of dried dates.

4 or 5 bananas pound pitted dates, fresh or dried pound pitted dates, fresh or dried 1 cups light cream Arrange alternate layers of thinly sliced bananas and halved dates in a serving bowl. Pour cream all over and chill for a few hours before serving. The cream will soak into the fruit and give it a soft, slightly sticky texture.

Yogurt with Honey Serves 2 * Yogurt with honey is eaten for breakfast and as a dessert. Choose a scented honey. Adding ginger is unusual but delicious. * Yogurt with honey is eaten for breakfast and as a dessert. Choose a scented honey. Adding ginger is unusual but delicious.

11/4 inches fresh gingerroot (optional) 1 cups plain whole-milk or thick inches fresh gingerroot (optional) 1 cups plain whole-milk or thick Greek-style drained yogurt 11/2 tablespoons honey, or more to taste tablespoons honey, or more to taste Peel and grate the ginger, or cut it into pieces and press them in a garlic press to extract the juice over the yogurt, if you like. Add the honey and stir.

Variations Yogurt with rose-petal jam, which you'll find in Middle Eastern stores, makes a simple and delicious dessert.

Fruit preserves such as quince, apricot, or sour-cherry may be used instead of honey.

Sholezard Saffron Rice Pudding Serves 6 * This intriguing rice pudding made with water-not milk-called * This intriguing rice pudding made with water-not milk-called zerde zerde in Turkey and in Turkey and sholezard sholezard in Iran, has a delicate flavor and pretty, jellylike appearance. in Iran, has a delicate flavor and pretty, jellylike appearance.

cup short-grain or round rice 6 cups water 1 cup sugar cup short-grain or round rice 6 cups water 1 cup sugar teaspoon saffron threads or good-quality powder 1 tablespoon cornstarch tablespoon cornstarch 3 tablespoons rose water (optional) 2 tablespoons raisins 2 tablespoons slivered or chopped pistachios 2 tablespoons slivered almonds Boil the rice in the water for about 30 minutes, then add the sugar.

Mix the saffron with 1 tablespoon boiling water and stir it in. Dissolve the cornstarch in 3-4 tablespoons cold water and pour into the pan, stirring vigorously. Continue to stir for a few minutes, until the liquid part thickens, then simmer on low heat for 30 minutes.

Add the rose water and stir in the raisins, pistachios, and almonds.

Let it cool a little, then pour into a gla.s.s bowl.

Variations Add 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds with the rice from the beginning.

Serve with a dusting of cinnamon.

Muhallabeya Milk Pudding Serves 6 * This is the most common and popular Arab dessert. It is a milky cream thickened by cornstarch or rice flour (in the old days the rice was pulverized with a pestle and mortar). In Lebanese restaurants it is usually made with cornstarch; at home rice flour is used, or a mixture of both. In Turkey they call the cream * This is the most common and popular Arab dessert. It is a milky cream thickened by cornstarch or rice flour (in the old days the rice was pulverized with a pestle and mortar). In Lebanese restaurants it is usually made with cornstarch; at home rice flour is used, or a mixture of both. In Turkey they call the cream sutlage sutlage.

2-3 tablespoons cornstarch 4tablespoons rice flour 5 cups milk cups milk cup sugar, or more to taste 1 tablespoon orange-blossom or rose water cup chopped almonds and pistachio nuts to decorate Mix the cornstarch and rice flour with about cup of the cold milk, making sure that you break up any small lumps. Bring the rest of the milk to the boil and add the cornstarch-and-rice-flour mixture, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon.

Keep over low heat and stir constantly, until you feel a slight resistance as you stir. Continue to cook gently over low heat for 15-20 minutes, until the cream thickens more, stirring occasionally and being careful not to sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan (the cream burns slightly at the bottom and if it is sc.r.a.ped it will give a burnt taste to the pudding). Add sugar towards the end. Stir in orange-blossom or rose water, and cook a minute more. Let the cream cool a little before pouring into a gla.s.s serving bowl or small individual ones.

Chill before decorating (it firms up when it chills) with a pattern of chopped almonds and pistachios.

Variations Omit the cornstarch and use 6 tablespoons of rice flour.