The New Book of Middle Eastern Food Part 22

A Turkish and Egyptian Way In Turkey it is sade pilav; sade pilav; in Egypt it is in Egypt it is roz mefalfel roz mefalfel. The ingredients and quant.i.ties are the same as in the first recipe. Turks always use b.u.t.ter and plenty of it for rice to be eaten hot, and use olive oil when it is to be eaten cold. b.u.t.ter is truly wonderful with rice, but some people today have turned to using a bland vegetable or seed oil, sunflower oil being the most common.

Wash the rice if basmati and drain well.

Heat the b.u.t.ter or oil in a saucepan. Throw in the rice and stir gently for a minute or two, until the grains are translucent and well coated with fat. Add the water (or use stock-a bouillon cube will do at a pinch) and salt. Bring to the boil vigorously, then cook gently over very low heat, tightly covered and undisturbed, for about 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and the characteristic little holes have appeared on the surface. Never stir while it is cooking. Allow to rest, covered, for 10 minutes before serving.

A Persian Way for Chelow or Steamed Plain Rice As with her art of miniature painting and poetry, Persia has carried the preparation of rice to extraordinary heights of refinement. In Iran today, whereas bread is the daily staple, rice is the occasional prestige food for most of the population. It is said that no other country prepares rice in the same perfectionist manner. The result is a light, separate, and fragrant grain.

The principle is to parboil the rice briefly until it is only half cooked, then to strain it and finish the cooking in dry heat, so that it continues to cook in its steam. Although this preparation may sound complicated, it is not so, and the result is so exquisite that it is well worth trying. You will understand the importance of rice in Iranian life and the national pride in making it to perfection.

You must use basmati, which is the closest to Iranian rice. In Iran, according to tradition, they start the preparation the day before, soaking the rice overnight in water with plenty of salt, but the basmati we get today cooks perfectly well without soaking. If you soak it overnight it falls apart when you cook it.

It is good to use a heavy-bottomed nonstick pan.

For 6 people, wash 1 pound (2 cups) basmati rice in a few changes of lukewarm water, then under the cold tap in a small-holed colander or large strainer.

Fill a large, preferably nonstick, pan with about 2 quarts water, add 3 tablespoons salt, and bring to the boil. Sprinkle the drained rice in gradually and let it boil vigorously for about 6-10 minutes. Test a grain of rice by biting it. When it is just a little underdone-it must be slightly harder than you would like to eat it- drain quickly in the colander or strainer and rinse in lukewarm water.

Put 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil in the pan and mix in 2 spatulas of rice. Pour in the rest of the rice and mix in 2-4 more tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil. Stretch a clean dishcloth across the top of the pan, put the lid on top, and lift the corners of the cloth up over it. (In Iran they use a lid made of raffia covered by a removable cloth called a damkoni.) damkoni.) Put the rice on high heat for a few minutes, until it is hot enough to steam, then leave it to steam over very low heat for 20-30 minutes, until the grains are tender and separate. The cloth will absorb the excess steam. If you are not using a nonstick pan, to release the crispy bottom of the rice put the pan briefly on a cold surface or dip it in cold water.

The crisp, golden-brown crust that forms at the bottom is considered a delicacy to be offered first to guests. It is called tah dig tah dig.

A beautiful way to serve-easily done with a nonstick pan-is to turn the rice out like a cake. It will have a beautiful golden crust.

If you are not using a nonstick pan, remove the crust with a spatula and serve separately.

Variations For a yellow saffron garnish, crush teaspoon saffron threads with the back of a teaspoon and let it infuse in cup boiling water, mix with a ladle of cooked rice, and sprinkle over the rice when serving.

Put thin slices of fried bread or raw potato at the bottom of the pan when steaming, with the rice on top, and serve them in the same way as the crispy rice tah dig tah dig.

Another way of producing a golden-crust tah dig tah dig is to mix 1 small egg with 2 tablespoons plain yogurt and tablespoon water infused with teaspoon crushed saffron. Mix this with a ladle of cooked rice and spread over the hot b.u.t.ter or oil at the bottom of the pan. is to mix 1 small egg with 2 tablespoons plain yogurt and tablespoon water infused with teaspoon crushed saffron. Mix this with a ladle of cooked rice and spread over the hot b.u.t.ter or oil at the bottom of the pan.

Served without a sauce, as an accompaniment to shish kebab, plain white rice is eaten with a generous lump of b.u.t.ter and, traditionally, with raw egg yolks served in eggsh.e.l.ls. One yolk is poured over each individual portion of rice and then stirred into it, making a glistening, creamy sauce. This is in the tradition of the cookshop or restaurant and not part of domestic home cooking.

Bowls of sumac are put on the table for people to help themselves.

A special electric rice-cooker is now widely used in Iran and throughout the Middle East. It regulates itself and makes the cooking of rice very easy with good results, though not quite as good as the traditional way; and it produces a crispy golden crust at the bottom. It is available in America. Read the instructions that come with it before you use it.

Quick and Easy Boiled and Steamed Rice 1. Serves 6 * The following method, a simplification of the Persian one, is the one I mostly use today. It works well with all types of rice, because the grain can absorb as much water as it needs. * The following method, a simplification of the Persian one, is the one I mostly use today. It works well with all types of rice, because the grain can absorb as much water as it needs.

2 cups long-grain or basmati rice Salt 4-6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Wash the rice, if basmati, in warm water and drain. American long-grain does not need washing. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Pour in the rice and cook over high heat for about 10-12 minutes, until the rice is still slightly underdone. Then drain quickly.

In the same pot, heat half the b.u.t.ter or oil. Pour in the rice, add the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil and a little salt, and stir gently. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and steam on very low heat for 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender.

Rice with Chickpeas Prepare plain rice in any of the above ways. At the same time, saute 1 chopped onion in 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil until softened. Add drained chickpeas from a 15-ounce can and cook, stirring, until heated through. Stir into the rice. In Turkey this is nohutlu pilav nohutlu pilav. It features famously in Ottoman folklore. At the Palace of Topkapi, in the time of Mehmed the Conqueror, a little gold ball in the shape of a chickpea would be embedded in the rice, creating excitement among the guests, who all hoped to be the happy recipients (unless they broke a tooth).

Roz bil s.h.a.ghria Rice with Vermicelli 1. Serves 4-6 * This is the most popular everyday Arab rice dish. It is eaten on the second night of the Muslim New Year "so that one's employment may be prolonged and multiplied" like the vermicelli broken into little bits; or, as some say, "so that one may be prolific and beget many children." Serve with ayogurt-and-cuc.u.mber salad, such as the one on page 70. * This is the most popular everyday Arab rice dish. It is eaten on the second night of the Muslim New Year "so that one's employment may be prolonged and multiplied" like the vermicelli broken into little bits; or, as some say, "so that one may be prolific and beget many children." Serve with ayogurt-and-cuc.u.mber salad, such as the one on page 70.

cup dry vermicelli broken into 1-inchpieces in your hand 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 cups long-grain rice 3 cups boiling water or chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use a bouilloncube) Salt 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter In a saucepan, fry the vermicelli in the oil over medium heat until lightly golden, stirring so that they color evenly. Watch them, as they brown very quickly.

Add the rice and stir until the grains are coated. Then pour in the boiling water or stock, add salt, and stir well. Cook, covered, over low heat for about 20 minutes or until the rice is tender and the water absorbed.

Stir in the b.u.t.ter, and serve hot.

Variations Add a handful of boiled or canned and drained chickpeas at the same time as the water.

* Fry 1 chopped onion in the oil till transparent, then add the vermicelli.

* You can toast the vermicelli under the broiler or in a dry skillet instead of frying it.

Pilaf with Currants and Pine Nuts 1. Serves 6 * Many dishes standardized in the courtly kitchens of Constantinople during Ottoman rule spread throughout the Empire. This is one of the cla.s.sics that you find in all the cities that were once outposts of the Empire. I is good to serve with meat or chicken. * Many dishes standardized in the courtly kitchens of Constantinople during Ottoman rule spread throughout the Empire. This is one of the cla.s.sics that you find in all the cities that were once outposts of the Empire. I is good to serve with meat or chicken.

1 large onion, chopped 3 tablespoons sunflower oil cup pine nuts, toasted 2 cups long-grain rice 3 cups chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use 1 bouillon cubes) 1 teaspoon ground allspice 1 teaspoon cinnamon Salt and pepper 3 tablespoons currants 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces In a large pan, fry the onion in the oil until sof and golden. Add the pine nuts and stir unti lightly colored. Add the rice and stir over moderate heat until well coated in fat.

Add the stock and stir in the allspice, cinnamon, salt and pepper, and the currants. Bring to the boil, then simmer, covered, over low heat for 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender.

Stir in the b.u.t.ter and serve hot.

Variation For Turkish ic pilav ic pilav, saute pound diced liver-chicken livers or lamb's liver-in 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter until it changes color, adding salt, pepper, and teaspoon of the allspice. Fold into the rice with 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill when the rice has cooked for 15 minutes, and leave, covered, over very low heat for 10 minutes more.

Roz bel Zafaran Spiced Saffron Rice 1. Serves 6 * Yellow rice is a festive, celebratory dish, prepared for its delicate flavor and decorative quality, and in the hope that its color will bring joy and happiness. This spiced version is particularly delicious. * Yellow rice is a festive, celebratory dish, prepared for its delicate flavor and decorative quality, and in the hope that its color will bring joy and happiness. This spiced version is particularly delicious.

2 cups basmati or long-grain rice 3 cups chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use a bouillon cube) 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds (Indian stores sell them out of the pod) 6 cloves 3 cinnamon sticks, about 3 inches long teaspoon powdered saffron or saffron threads Salt and pepper 4 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil Wash the rice, if basmati, in warm water, and rinse in a small-holed colander in cold water under the tap.

In a pan, bring the stock to the boil with the cardamom seeds, cloves, and cinnamon sticks and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the saffron and a little salt and pepper and pour in the rice. Let it come to the boil again and stir well, then lower the heat to a minimum and cook on low heat, with the lid on, for about 20 minutes, until little holes appear on the surface and the rice is tender.

Stir in the b.u.t.ter, cut into pieces, or the oil.

Serve the rice hot, in a mound, or press in a mold and heat through in the oven before turning it out.

Variations Serve sprinkled with a mixture of lightly toasted pine nuts and coa.r.s.ely chopped almonds and pistachios, or throw these into the bottom of the mold, if using one, before pressing in the rice, so that they come out on top when you turn out.

Add 3 tablespoons currants at the same time as the rice.

Garnish, if you like, with 1 chopped onion fried till golden, or 3 tablespoons raisins soaked in boiling water for a few minutes and 3 tablespoons flaked or chopped almonds toasted under the broiler or fried in 2 tablespoons oil.

For rice with turmeric-referred to as "Oriental saffron" and used as an alternative- subst.i.tute teaspoon turmeric for the saffron.

Rice to Accompany Fish 1. Serves 6 * The traditional Arab rice for fish is pale yellow with saffron and garnished with pine nuts. Turmeric, the "Oriental saffron," sometimes replaces the expensive spice. Here the grains become softer and less separate with more water than in other rice dishes, and olive oil is often used. * The traditional Arab rice for fish is pale yellow with saffron and garnished with pine nuts. Turmeric, the "Oriental saffron," sometimes replaces the expensive spice. Here the grains become softer and less separate with more water than in other rice dishes, and olive oil is often used.

cup vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil teaspoon saffron powder or threads or teaspoon turmeric 2 cups long-grain rice Salt and pepper 2 onions, sliced into half-moon shapes cup pine nuts Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a pan. Stir in the saffron and throw in the rice. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and stir well over medium-high heat until the rice acquires a transparent yellow glow. Add 4 cups boiling water, cover the pan, and simmer very gently, undisturbed, for about 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and the water has been absorbed. Stir in 4 more tablespoons of oil.

Fry the onions in the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, stirring occasionally, until very soft and more brown than golden. Add the pine nuts, and stir until golden.

Serve the rice in a mound, garnished with the pine nuts and onions.

Rice with Pine Nuts, Pistachios, and Almonds This is an elegant and decorative way of serving rice at a party.

Prepare plain or saffron rice, cooking in water or chicken stock, following one of the recipes at the beginning of this chapter.

Chop - cup mixed pistachios and blanched almonds coa.r.s.ely, and fry them with cup pine nuts in a little oil until just golden. Or use only one or two kinds of nuts.

Just before serving, spread the nuts evenly over the bottom of an oiled ring mold large enough to hold all the rice. Press the rice over the nuts tightly and turn out onto a heated serving dish. This traditional ring shape is common for rice. In this case, it will be crowned by the a.s.sortment of nuts.

An advantage is that you can pack the rice and nuts into the oiled mold in advance and keep it warm in a low oven, ready to be un-molded just before serving.

Sabzi Polow Rice with Herbs 1. Serves 6 * Iranians have a predilection for fresh herbs, which they use in huge quant.i.ties. This traditional Iranian New Year's dish consists of rice cooked with a variety of fresh herbs. Their greenness is believed to ensure a happy and "green" year ahead. The herbs are chosen according to individual taste and mood, and to what is available. Favorite Iranian herbs include tarragon, chives, flat-leaf parsley, dill, fenugreek, and cilantro. Choose 3 or 4 or use them all, but try to use fresh ones. * Iranians have a predilection for fresh herbs, which they use in huge quant.i.ties. This traditional Iranian New Year's dish consists of rice cooked with a variety of fresh herbs. Their greenness is believed to ensure a happy and "green" year ahead. The herbs are chosen according to individual taste and mood, and to what is available. Favorite Iranian herbs include tarragon, chives, flat-leaf parsley, dill, fenugreek, and cilantro. Choose 3 or 4 or use them all, but try to use fresh ones.

2 cups basmati rice Salt A huge bunch (2 cups) of mixed herbs, including tarragon, chives, flat-leaf parsley, cilantro, and dill, finely chopped 6 scallions, finely chopped 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or 4 tablespoons vegetable oil Wash the rice in warm water and drain.

Bring plenty of salted water to the boil. Pour in the rice and boil for about 12 minutes, until the rice is still slightly undercooked. Throw in the herbs and scallions and drain at once. The herbs will cling to the rice.

In the same pot, heat half the b.u.t.ter or oil. Pour in the rice, and add the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil and some salt. Stir gently, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and steam for 15-20 minutes over very low heat.

Variation You may prefer to mix in the herbs at the end, when the rice has been steamed.

Ispanakli Pilav Rice with Spinach 1. Serves 4 * Rice dishes feature in a big way in miniatures depicting the feasts and banquets of the Turkish Ottoman Sultans, and one researcher found mentions of 100 in the archives of Topkapi in Istanbul. Yogurt makes a good accompaniment to this simple and delightful one. * Rice dishes feature in a big way in miniatures depicting the feasts and banquets of the Turkish Ottoman Sultans, and one researcher found mentions of 100 in the archives of Topkapi in Istanbul. Yogurt makes a good accompaniment to this simple and delightful one.

1 pound fresh spinach 1 large onion, chopped 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil 1 cups long-grain rice 2V4 cups water or chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use a bouillon cube) Salt and pepper Wash and drain the spinach, and remove only tough stems. Cut it coa.r.s.ely or leave it whole.

Fry the onion in 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pan till soft.

Add the rice and stir well. Then add the water or stock, salt and pepper, and the spinach. Stir and cook, covered, on very low heat for about 18-20 minutes, or until the rice is tender. Stir in the remaining oil.

Serve hot or cold. Accompany with yogurt, beaten, if you like, with crushed garlic.

Domatesli Pilav Tomato Pilaf 1. Serves 4 * A more common version of the tomato pilaf which spread throughout the old Ottoman lands is made exclusively with tomato paste, but this one has a marvelous fresh flavor and delicate salmon color. * A more common version of the tomato pilaf which spread throughout the old Ottoman lands is made exclusively with tomato paste, but this one has a marvelous fresh flavor and delicate salmon color.

11/4 cups basmati or long-grain rice cups basmati or long-grain rice 1 onion, chopped 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped Salt and pepper 2 teaspoons sugar If using basmati, wash the rice in warm water and rinse under the cold tap. American long-grain does not need washing.

Fry the onion in the oil until soft and golden. Add the garlic, and when the aroma rises, stir in the tomato paste and add the tomatoes. Season with salt, pepper, and sugar and cook 20 minutes.

Throw in the rice, and add enough water to cover the rice by about inch. Bring to the boil and simmer, covered, over low heat for about 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and the water absorbed, adding a little water if it becomes too dry.

Balkabagi Pilav Pumpkin Pilaf 1. Serves 4 * The success of this Turkish pilaf depends on the flavor of the orange-fleshed pumpkin, which varies. (It should be sweet-tasting.) I prefer the dish without the raisins. * The success of this Turkish pilaf depends on the flavor of the orange-fleshed pumpkin, which varies. (It should be sweet-tasting.) I prefer the dish without the raisins.

1 pound orange pumpkin (weight with seeds and stringy bits removed) 1 onion, chopped 2 tablespoons sunflower oil 1 cups basmati or long-grain rice (washed if basmati) 2 cups chicken stock (page 143) (or you may use 1 bouillon cube) 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Salt and pepper 1 tablespoon raisins (optional) 3tablespoons b.u.t.ter This very large type of pumpkin is often sold by the slice. Cut the peel off, and cut it up into -inch cubes.

Fry the onion in the oil till golden. Add the rice, and stir until the grains are covered in oil. Add the pumpkin and pour in the stock. Add the cardamom seeds, cinnamon, salt, pepper, and raisins if using, and stir well. Simmer, covered, on low heat until the rice and pumpkin are tender.

Stir in the b.u.t.ter, and leave for a few minutes with the lid on before serving.

Roz bel Ful Ahdar Rice with Fava Beans 1. Serves 6 * In Egypt this is prepared in the spring, when fava beans are very young and tender. It is served hot as an accompaniment to meat, or cold with yogurt and a salad. Egyptians do not remove the skins of the beans. * In Egypt this is prepared in the spring, when fava beans are very young and tender. It is served hot as an accompaniment to meat, or cold with yogurt and a salad. Egyptians do not remove the skins of the beans.

1 pound fresh sh.e.l.led or frozen fava beans Salt Vegetable oil 1 large onion, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon ground coriander 2 cups basmati or long-grain rice (wash if using basmati) Pepper 3 cups water Boil the beans in salted water for a few minutes, until they are tender, then drain.

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a pan and fry the onion until soft and golden. Add the garlic and coriander and stir for a moment or two. Then add the drained beans and saute a little, stirring and turning them over.

Add the rice, and stir until transparent. Add salt and pepper and pour in the water. Bring to the boil and simmer over low heat, covered, for about 20 minutes, until the rice is tender.

Variations Omit the coriander and stir into the cooking water 1 cups chopped fresh dill and 1 teaspoon saffron powder or crushed threads.

* Another prestigious dish is rice with artichokes. Use a 14-ounce package of frozen and defrosted artichoke hearts or bottoms, cut into quarters, instead of fava beans.

Roz bel Balah Rice with Dates 1. Serves 6 * An Arab dish often served with grilled fish. * An Arab dish often served with grilled fish.

2 cups basmati or long-grain rice cup blanched almonds, halved 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or oil 3 tablespoons black or golden raisins cup coa.r.s.ely chopped California dates Salt If using basmati, wash in warm water and rinse under the cold tap. American long-grain does not need washing.

In a skillet, fry the almonds in half the b.u.t.ter or oil until just golden. Add the raisins and the dates, and stir gently over moderate heat for a few minutes more.

Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and throw in the drained rice. Boil for 10 minutes, until not quite tender, then drain.

Melt a tablespoon of b.u.t.ter in the pan. Return the rice and stir in the date-and-almond mixture and the remaining b.u.t.ter or oil. Cover with a tight-fitting lid, and steam over very low heat for about 20-30 minutes, until the rice is tender.

Variation For rice with date syrup (dibbis) (dibbis), called mham-mar mham-mar in the Gulf States, boil the rice in salted water for 10 minutes, then drain. Heat 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter at the bottom of the pan and pour the rice back in. Add 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, 1 cup date syrup, teaspoon saffron powder, 1 teaspoon ground cardamom, salt, and pepper. Stir well. Put the lid on and leave to steam, covered, over low heat for 20 minutes. You will find date syrup in the Gulf States, boil the rice in salted water for 10 minutes, then drain. Heat 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter at the bottom of the pan and pour the rice back in. Add 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, 1 cup date syrup, teaspoon saffron powder, 1 teaspoon ground cardamom, salt, and pepper. Stir well. Put the lid on and leave to steam, covered, over low heat for 20 minutes. You will find date syrup (dibbis) (dibbis) in Middle Eastern stores. in Middle Eastern stores.

Labnieh Rice with Yogurt There is a dish of rice cooked in yogurt which has been stabilized so that it doesn't curdle (see page 113), but it is simpler and just as good to pour yogurt over plain rice. Everyone likes this, and Arab doctors prescribe it for people with stomach troubles.

For 6, cook 2 cups of rice using one of the methods on pages 337-339. Beat 2 cups of plain whole-milk yogurt at room temperature in a bowl with 1 tablespoon dried mint, 2 crushed garlic cloves, and a little salt and white pepper. Pour some over each portion of steaming hot rice as you serve.

I also like it plain, without mint or garlic.

"Honor to rice; let burghul burghul go hang itself!" - an old Lebanese saying go hang itself!" - an old Lebanese saying originating from the time when rice was a delicacy and was rapidly eclipsing burghul, burghul, until then considered the staple food of the Lebanon.

Roz bi Dfeen Rice with Meat and Chickpeas 1. Serves 6 * This homely dish is a favorite in Syria and Lebanon. Good-quality canned chickpeas will do. If you are using them, drain a 14-ounce can and put them in with the rice. * This homely dish is a favorite in Syria and Lebanon. Good-quality canned chickpeas will do. If you are using them, drain a 14-ounce can and put them in with the rice.

1 pound small pearl or pickling onions or shallots, peeled 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil 1 pound lean beef or lamb, cut into small cubes cup chickpeas, soaked overnight Pepper 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min or cinnamon Salt 2 cups long-grain rice To peel the onions more easily, blanch them first in boiling water.

Saute the onions in the b.u.t.ter or oil in a large, heavy saucepan, stirring and shaking the pan, until golden. Add the meat and stir, turning the pieces over, until browned.

Add the soaked and drained chickpeas, and cover with water. Add pepper and c.u.min or cinnamon, and simmer gently, covered, for about 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender and the chickpeas are soft, adding water if necessary, and salt when the chickpeas have begun to soften.

Add enough more water to make the liquid up to about 3 cups. Bring to the boil again, throw in the rice, mix well, and simmer, covered and undisturbed, for about 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender, adding more water if it appears too dry.