The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume IV Part 2

The Palace of _la Favorita_ in the Suburb of _Vienna_, where the Emperor spends the Summer, is even inferior to that in the City. 'Tis a very large House, built upon the Highway, without any Court before it, without Symmetry or Architecture, and which, as to the Outside, looks more like a Convent, than a Royal Palace. The Inside perfectly answers the Outside.

There's an Ascent to the Apartments by a great Stair-case, all of Timber, that leads to a Guard Chamber, which is a Room of no great Extent, and without any manner of Ornament; and from thence there's an Entrance into other Apartments but half furnish'd, and very low, which in short is the Fault of all the Apartments. The Gardens of the Palace are as inconsiderable as the Building; they being full of large Fruit-trees, but in very bad Order, and I saw nothing there that can be call'd a fine Prospect.

Mean time the Court n.o.bility are far from being so ill lodg'd as the Emperor, for they have all stately Houses, both in the City and Suburbs.

Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_'s Palace is the most magnificent Building that one shall see; for whether you examine the Outside or the Inside of it, the whole is of the best Contrivance, and the utmost Magnificence. The first Hall, which forms the first Piece of the grand Apartment, is all wainscotted, and adorn'd with large Pictures, representing the chief Battles won by Prince _Eugene_. From this Hall we enter into a large Antichamber, where we see a Suit of Tapistry Hangings, made by the famous _Devos_ of _Brussels_, where that skilful Artist has represented the princ.i.p.al Transactions of the War to as great Perfection as possible: Out of this Antichamber we go into the Bedchamber; I never saw any thing so rich as the Furniture is there; the Tapistry is roll'd up in Pilasters of green Velvet, embroider'd with Gold, with Figures in Needle Work so finely drawn, that they seem to be Miniatures. This Piece is intirely furnish'd in all that Taste: The Closet next to the Bedchamber is all over gilt; and every thing in general in this Apartment is superb; the Paintings, Looking-Gla.s.ses, Marble Tables, the very Arms and Andirons being of most curious Workmanship: I ought not to omit the many fine l.u.s.tres, of which that in the Bedchamber is the most magnificent; and I have been told, that it cost 40,000 Florins: As to the Ceiling and other Pieces of Masonry, they are indeed very fine, but not so elegant as n.o.ble.

After having taken a full View of the Prince's Apartments, I was shew'd the Library, which is in as good a Condition as any in _Europe_. The Books are rang'd in delightful Order, and the pompous Bindings form the finest Scene that can be. Hither the Prince comes every now-and-then to unbend himself from the Fatigues of his great Employments.

The Prince has a magnificent Garden in the Suburb of _Vienna_, which has a Court before it, that is separated from the Street by an Iron Grate of very curious Workmanship. In this Court is a very large Piece of Water, with a Row of Chestnut-Trees on each Side, that leads to the House, or rather the Castle, for 'tis a great and stately Building: They were still at Work upon it when I saw it. This House fronts the Garden, and takes up almost the whole Breadth of it. The Garden is shelving, for which Reason it was thought proper to place a very fine Cascade in the middle of it.

There's a very neat Structure at the End of it, which, like the House, takes in the whole Breadth of it. Below Stairs is a great Saloon, all lin'd with Marble of several Colours, and a Ceiling adorn'd with fine Paintings: From this Saloon there's a Pa.s.sage to a Room on the Left, the Ceiling and Wainscot of which are very fine; and then we enter into a large Closet, and next to that is a Bedchamber, with a Gallery and another large Closet at the End of that; so much for what is on the Left of the Saloon. On the Right Hand is another large Apartment, and the Chapel. The Backside of the Building looks into a great Court, where are the Stables and Coach-houses: 'Tis pity that this Prince, after he had been at so much Expence in this Building, did not buy the Ground where the Empress has since built a Convent. The Prince was advis'd to it at that very Time, but he refus'd, and said, he would not purchase the whole Suburb; to be sure he repents it by this time; for the Convent, which the Empress has caus'd to be erected there, is a great Inconvenience to that Prince, who cannot stir one Step at Home, without being overlook'd by the Nuns.

On the other Side of the City is another Suburb, which is very considerable, and the Walks there are very fine. The _Prat_, for Instance, is a Place mightily frequented; 'tis a Wood in an Island, form'd by the _Danube_, where there is such a surprizing Concourse of People in fine Weather, that it may well enough be call'd, _The_ Boulogne _Grove of_ Vienna. As one returns out of this Walk we come to another, call'd _The Emperor's Garden_: Here was formerly a beautiful Palace, but the _Turks_ having burnt it the last time they besieg'd _Vienna_, there is nothing of it to be seen now but the Ruins: The Garden is a large Spot of Ground, and, with a little Expence, might be made very fine, but no body seems to think about it, which I have been told is owing to the surprizing Swarms of Insects the _Danube_ brings. .h.i.ther at certain Times of the Year, so that People who come hither to walk, are forc'd to desert it: When they can come without this Annoyance, the Gentry usually repair hither in the Evening; adjoining to this Garden is a very fine Wood, in which are cut out n.o.ble Walks: This, _Madame_, is all that is most remarkable in _Vienna_ and its Suburbs, as to the Buildings; I will next endeavour to give you an Idea of this Court.

The Court of _Vienna_ is, in my Opinion, the plainest, and at the same time the most magnificent in _Europe_: To explain this seeming Paradox, I must acquaint you, that, as to the external Appearance of the Emperor's Houshold, nothing is so plain, nor indeed so dismal: His Liveries are of black Cloth, with a Lace of yellow and white Silk: The Cloathing of his Guards is much the same; and besides, they are not many in Number. The Palace, as I have had the Honour to tell you, is very inconsiderable; yet taking the Court all together, and considering the Number of Great and Petty Officers, the many rich n.o.blemen that spend high, and the several Princes that are in the Service of his Imperial Majesty, it must be confess'd, that there is not a Court in _Europe_ so splendid as that of _Vienna_. At the Time that I was there, the Emperor had in his Service Two Brothers of a King, Two Princes of Royal Blood, and a great Number of Princes of Sovereign or other Honourable Families: Nor is there a Court where there is a more sudden Transition from the meanest to the most stately external Appearance, and this they commonly run to such an Extreme, that they absolutely renounce Elegancy, to inc.u.mber themselves with Magnificence: For on solemn Days, as those of Births, Marriages, _&c._ one sees nothing but Gold, Lace and Diamonds without Number: And as soon as these Holidays, which are call'd _Gala_, are expir'd, they all resume their former Plainness.

After having given you this general Idea of the Court of _Vienna_, I will acquaint you how they commonly spend their Time: First of all, as soon as the Emperor is risen, he is dress'd; then he reads some Dispatches, and sometimes gives Audience to some Minister, or a.s.sists in Council. He afterwards goes to Ma.s.s, either at his own Chapel, or to some Church, according to the Festival. On the Days of Ceremony or Festival he is accompany'd by the Nuncio and the Amba.s.sadors, upon which Occasion the Emperor rides thither with very great Pomp. The Grooms of the Imperial Stables on Horseback begin the Cavalcade, then comes an Equerry, and a Coach drawn by Six Horses, in which sits the Master of the Horse: He is follow'd by the Chamberlains, the Knights of the Golden Fleece, and the Ministers, all on Horseback, in black Cloaths, and Cloaks trimm'd with Lace. After these come the Footmen and Heydukes, in an antic Dress, and bare-headed. Their Imperial Majesties Coach comes next, between Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_: The Emperor rides always with his Face to the Horses, and the Empress over-against him, unless the Emperor goes into the Country, and then the Empress sits by his Side. The Pages and some of the inferior Officers of the Chamber follow on Horseback, and then Three or Four Coaches, with Six Horses, in which are the Empress's Ladies: The Cavalcade is clos'd by a Company of the Garison at _Vienna_, which is maintain'd at the Charge of the City, and mounts Guard at the Emperor's Palace, his Imperial Majesty having no other Foot Guards.

After Ma.s.s is ended, the Emperor returns to his Apartment, preceded by all his Court, as when he came. The Nuncio and the Amba.s.sadors are covered, as is also the Emperor; then come the Empress and the Archd.u.c.h.esses, each led by the Steward of their Houshold.

When the Emperor is return'd to his Apartment, he retires to a Chamber call'd _la Retirade_, or the Withdrawing-Room, where he stays till Dinner-time, which, when 'tis serv'd up, the great Chamberlain goes and acquaints the Emperor, who comes and sits down at Table with the Empress, attended by all the Ladies. A Chamberlain or Treasurer of the Chambers presents the Bason for their Majesties to wash in, who afterwards seat themselves in Two-arm Chairs: The Table did not appear to me to be serv'd with very great Delicacy. The Plate is old-fashion'd, and all the Dishes were set without any Regularity. Their Imperial Majesties have particular Plates to themselves, for which Reason small Plates are commonly made use of; and I have seen no less than Five or Six Spoons upon the Table at a Time: The Emperor covers himself as soon as he is seated; then the Nuncio and Amba.s.sadors likewise cover themselves, and keep their Standing round the Table, till their Majesties have drank; their Liquor is presented to them by a Chamberlain; after their Majesties have drank to one another's Healths, the Steward, the great Chamberlain, the Master of the Horse and the Captain of the Guards step forward to receive the Emperor's Orders, and to know how his Majesty will dispose of himself in the Afternoon. The Ladies of Honour and the Officers belonging to the Empress advance to that Princess in like manner, to know her Pleasure, and then every body retires, unless there is Music, which happens very often: The Dinner does not last much above an Hour: Their Majesties stay at Table till every thing is taken away, even so much as the Cloth, but then a fresh one is laid on, upon which the Treasurer places a Bason and an Ewer of Silver gilt, and presents them to their Majesties to wash. The great Chamberlain presents the Napkin to the Emperor, as the Lady of Honour does to the Empress: This done, their Majesties retire to their Withdrawing-Rooms, tho' they often go out a Hunting, or to shoot at a Mark.

When the Emperor shoots at a Mark, several Persons are enter'd down in a List to shoot with him, and there are Prizes distributed by those who are of the Society of Shooters, of whom the Emperor gives the first Prize, the Empress the second, and then all the rest, according to the Seniority of their Admission into the Society. At their Return from this Diversion, the Emperor grants Audience to those that send to desire it by the great Chamberlain, who takes Care to let them know the Time when his Majesty is to be spoke with. These Audiences are given without Ceremony, and they that receive them are introduc'd by the Chamberlain in waiting. The Emperor stands up and is cover'd, leaning with his Back against a Table, with a Canopy over him, and an Arm-Chair by his Side: The Person that approaches for Audience bends the Knee Three times, first as he comes in, next when he is in the middle of the Room, and the third time when he begins to speak. The Emperor hearkens with Attention, gives a gracious Answer, and if there be any thing obscure in what is deliver'd to him, he desires an Explanation. When the Person has made an End of speaking, he bends one Knee to the Ground, and stretches forth his Hand, as a Signal that he desires to kiss that of the Emperor, which his Majesty never refuses. Then the Person retires, going backwards, and making the Three Obeisances that he made at Entrance. The same Ceremonies are observ'd in the Audiences of the Empresses; in order to obtain one from the Empress Regent, Application is made to the great Steward of her Household, who desires it, and then notifies what Hour will be most convenient for the Empress to grant it. At these Audiences there attends but one Lady of Honour, who keeps her proper Distance far enough to be out of the Hearing of what is said, while her Majesty's great Steward stays at the Door in the Antichamber.

A shocking Abuse is crept into the Court of _Vienna_, in the Article of Audiences: The next Day after they have been had, the Domestics of the great Chamberlain and the great Steward come to demand a Fee for the Service done by their Masters in giving the Notice to their Majesties; and I have known some so impertinent, as to fix the Sum they claim'd a Right to. The Hundred _Swiss_ and the very Ushers come likewise to wish happy Success to the Audience that has been obtain'd, merely for what they can get.

As soon as the Audiences are over, the Empress goes into a Room call'd, _The Looking-Gla.s.s Room_, because 'tis the only one in her Apartment where there are such Gla.s.ses: There her Majesty finds the Ladies, who kiss her Hand one after the Other, after which the Empress sits down to Play; none but the Ladies have the Honour to play with her, or have Permission to enter into that Room, excepting indeed the Emperor, the great Chamberlain, the great Steward, and the Princes who are related to the Empress. While they are at Play, the Ladies are seated round the Table, without observing any Precedence; nor is it even as 'tis in _France_, where the Honour of the Tabouret or Stool to sit on is paid only to the d.u.c.h.esses; for at _Vienna_ those who are call'd d.u.c.h.esses by way of Railery, are treated as if they were such in Reality.

There's another Custom at _Vienna_, very different from the Practice at other Courts of _Europe_: Here are no Days fix'd for Drawing-Rooms or Circles, so that the Ladies, when they think proper, send to the Lady of Honour in waiting, to know of her at what time they may pay their Court to the Empress; and then they repair to the Palace at the Time appointed.

Towards Supper-time the Emperor goes to see the Empress; when the Company gives over Play, and the Empress rises, and admits those Ladies that are not to stay at Supper to kiss her Hand; after which their Majesties seat themselves at Table, which is serv'd much after the same manner as at Dinner: Their Majesties always sup in the Empress's Apartment, where Two Wax Candles are plac'd upon the Table, which are chang'd Three or Four Times by one of the Maids of Honour: When she takes off a Candle, to give it to the Treasurer to snuff it, she makes a profound Curt'sy, and makes another when she replaces it on the Table. On the _Gala_ or Festival Days, there is Music during the Repast. After the Bason has been presented to their Majesties to wash their Hands in, the Governess or Mother of the Maids presents the Napkin to the Emperor; and a Maid of Honour, who is at the same time Lady of the Golden Key, presents it to the Empress. When the Archd.u.c.h.esses sup with their Majesties, the same Bason is presented to them that the Emperor has wash'd in, and a Maid of Honour presents them with the Napkin; and when the Emperor is risen from the Table, the Two first Archd.u.c.h.esses give the Emperor his Hat, and the Empress her Fan and Gloves; but, in the Absence of the Archd.u.c.h.esses, this is done by a Lady of Honour and a Maid of Honour, who must also be a Lady of the Golden Key: After this, the Ladies who waited at Supper kiss the Empress's Hand, as her Majesty goes out of the Room, into the Chamber of Looking-Gla.s.ses. As soon as their Majesties are in this Chamber every body retires, to go to the a.s.sembly, which, when I was at _Vienna_, was held at the House of _Madame de Rabutin_, whither came all the _Beau Monde_. Prince _Eugene_ of _Savoy_ was there too every Night, where he play'd constantly at Picquet with the Countess _de Badiani_ and some other Ladies. About 11 o'Clock the Company retir'd to the Places where they had appointed to sup, tho' Supper is a Meal they seldom indulge themselves with, all the grand Entertainments being made at Dinners, and those extremely late.

The Empresses Dowagers are serv'd at Table with the same Ceremonies as the Empress Regent, and they commonly eat alone, with only the Archd.u.c.h.esses their Daughters. The Empress Mother always ate in private, but on _Sundays_ and Days of Festival or _Gala_, the Empress Dowager din'd in public.

I had the Honour to acquaint you before, when I was mentioning the Empresses Dowagers, that they never quit their Mourning; but this must be only understood of their Persons, for their Officers and other Domestics are clad in Colours: Yet, as to their Maids of Honour, let the Day of _Gala_ be never so grand, the Bodies of their Gowns must be a black Ground, embroider'd with Gold and Silver, but their Petticoats may be of what Colour they please. Those Princesses are never at any Play or Ball: As for the Archd.u.c.h.esses, it being the Custom at _Vienna_ for Sisters to dress alike, they must be dress'd all in their Hair upon the Days of Ceremony and _Gala_, as well as their Maids of Honour: They generally wear the Court Dresses; but on the Days of grand Ceremony they wear Robes, much like Children's Vests, and very wide Petticoats with great Trains.

Upon the Days of _Gala_ there are commonly Operas and Comedies: Their Imperial Majesties sit in the Pit, the Emperor in the chief Place, and the Empress on his Left, and the Archd.u.c.h.esses are in the same Row. All those of the Imperial Family have Arm-Chairs of the same Size and Height, with a Stand behind, upon which is a Wax Candle. Their Operas are magnificent, as to the Decorations and Habits, and good Judges have a.s.sur'd me, that their Music is excellent; but for my own Part I think them as sad as most of the _Italian_ Operas, because neither of 'em are accompany'd with Dances, or any agreeable Entertainment.

I think, _Madame_, that I have related within a Trifle every Thing that is remarkable at _Vienna_, whether at Court or in the City: I shall now give you a short Account of the Persons who compos'd that august Court at the Time that I stay'd there.

_Charles_ VI. was then upon the Imperial Throne, who is the second Son of the Emperor _Leopold_: After the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, he was own'd King of that Monarchy by all the Princes of the Grand Alliance, and he then took the Name of _Charles_ III. He went to his Kingdom, and shew'd the _Spanish_ Nation, that he was worthy of being their Sovereign. The Death of the Emperor _Joseph_, his Eldest Brother, oblig'd him to return to _Germany_, and when he was at _Genoa_ he heard, that he was chose Emperor. I have already had the Honour to give you an Account of his Coronation. The Reign of this Monarch has been signaliz'd by happy Events; the famous Peace concluded with _France_, restor'd that Tranquillity to the Empire which it had been for a long time depriv'd of, and that which was concluded some Years after with the _Turks_, secur'd the Happiness of _Hungary_, and all the hereditary Dominions.

The Name of the Empress is _Elizabeth Christina_ of _Wolfemb.u.t.tle Blanckenberg_: She is a Princess, who, besides all the Qualities of the Mind, has the most advantagious Aspect: She is the finest Personage at her Court, and 'tis easy to see by her majestic Carriage, that she was form'd by Nature to wear one of the chief Crowns in the World: She is very magnificent in her Apparel, and especially in Diamonds, of which she has to the Value of several Millions, and the Number is daily increasing by considerable Presents she receives from the Emperor. This Prince does Justice to the Merit of his august Spouse, who on her Part makes it her whole Care to give him Proofs of her Affection; 'tis impossible to find a more perfect Unity than that which is between their Imperial Majesties: There are Three Princesses by this Marriage; I had the Honour to see only the Two Eldest, for the Third was born some Years after my Journey to _Vienna_.

She that is first in Rank, next to the Empress and the Archd.u.c.h.esses her Daughters, was the Empress, Dowager of the Emperor _Leopold_, _Eleonora Magdalena Theresa_ of _Newbourg_: She was the Mirrour of the whole Court for Piety; for she spent most of her Time in Prayers at the Altars, or else in bestowing Charities, which were always very great. The Greatness of her Birth seem'd to make her uneasy, and she was vex'd to see the Honours which her Rank and Merit had entail'd upon her; she dy'd in a very advanc'd Age: She had several Princes and Princesses by the Emperor _Leopold_, as 1. _Joseph-Jacob_, who dy'd Emperor at _Vienna_, the 17th of _April_ 1711. 2. _Charles_, the present Emperor, and Three Archd.u.c.h.esses; the one marry'd to the King of _Portugal_; another, Governess of the _Netherlands_; and the Third, who resides at the Court of _Vienna_.

The Empress Dowager of the Emperor _Joseph_ resides also at the Court of _Vienna_, and her Name is _Wilhelmina-Amelia_: She is the Daughter of the late Duke of _Hanover_, Uncle to the King of _England_. After the Death of her Father, who left no Male Issue, this Princess went and stay'd some time in _France_, and her Sister having marry'd the Prince of _Modena_, she accompany'd her into that Country, where she stay'd till her Marriage, which was concluded at _Modena_ with the Emperor _Joseph_, then King of the _Romans_; for whom the Duke her Brother-in-Law marry'd her as Proxy: She went afterwards to _Vienna_, where she was the Admiration of the whole Court, not only for the l.u.s.tre of her Person, but for the other Qualities with which Nature has endow'd her: She took Care to cultivate her Mind with much Reading, and especially by the Study of the Languages, to which she gave great Application with Success, and she understands _French_ and _Italian_ as well as her native Language. This Princess had several Children by the Emperor her Husband, of whom there are but Two Princesses living; the one call'd _Maria-Josepha_, marry'd to the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_, now King of _Poland_; and the other call'd _Maria-Amelia_, marry'd to the Electoral Prince, now the Elector, of _Bavaria_.

These, _Madame_, were the Persons of whom the Imperial Family then consisted: I had the Honour in a few Days after my Arrival to kiss the Hands of all this august Family, and was afterwards introduc'd to the Ministers; so that in a very little time I was known by the whole Court, and was so happy, as to acquire some Friends of Distinction, who gave me Marks of their good Will, without putting me to the Trouble of dancing Attendance, and desir'd Prince _Eugene_ to give me an Employment: I had the Honour to wait on that Prince with particular Letters of Recommendation, that I brought from the Elector Palatine. The Prince, who receiv'd me very kindly, told me, that he could not insure me a Place, because the Colonels dispos'd of all the Employments in their Regiments; but that he would oblige me to the utmost of his Power; and indeed some time after, he was so good as to speak for me to the Count _Max----_ of _S----_, who gave me a Company in his Regiment, which was then in _Sicily_. I was mightily charm'd with this Present, and imagin'd that Fortune was at length weary of having so long thwarted me: Yet when I began to think coolly of the Matter, I had some Reflections which made me relapse into my former Melancholy: I was not in Cash, and I saw that I could not avoid being at a considerable Expence. Besides, I had contracted some dribbling Debts, which I wanted to clear before I left _Vienna_: My Equipage was so much out of Repair, that it would cost some Money to remount it; and finally, there was a Necessity for my going to _Sicily_; all which Things were not to be done with a trifling Expence: Upon this Occasion I receiv'd fresh Proofs of the Affection of my Friends, who all interested themselves for me effectually: _Madamoseille de K----_, Maid of Honour to the Empress Dowager, procur'd me a Gratuity from her Imperial Majesty; and the Countess of _W----_, at whose House I was every Day, advanc'd me a Thousand Ducats, saying, That I should pay her when I was able, or rather, when I was preferr'd to be a Lieutenant-General. She accompany'd her Generosity too with some Advice, that was truly wise and christian, and seem'd to come rather from the Lips of a Mother than a Friend. This Lady was heartily glad that I had chang'd my Religion, and was the more willing to a.s.sist me in making an End of my Affairs, for Fear that I should be overcome by the Temptation of turning Protestant again, for the Sake of getting Employment in my own Country.

You see, _Madame_, by what I have just had the Honour to mention to you, that I was now in a Condition to quit _Vienna_ with Credit, and indeed my Stay there was no longer than to be a Spectator of Two great Solemnities, of which I am next to give you a Description: The first was the Entry of a _Turkish_ Amba.s.sador, and the second the Marriage of the Archd.u.c.h.ess _Maria-Josepha_ with the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_; upon both which Occasions the Imperial Court made the fullest Display of its Magnificence.

As to the Entry of the Amba.s.sador, I may venture to say, it was only magnificent on the Part of the Imperial Court, for in Truth the Mahometan's whole Train and Equipage were very inconsiderable. This Amba.s.sador's Name was _Ibrahim Basha_; he had 600 Men in his Retinue, but they were all very shabbily rigg'd. Till the Day of his Entry he stay'd in a Camp, which he had caus'd to be form'd Two Leagues from _Vienna_; I went thither with some Friends to see him: He receiv'd us with very great Civility, and made us a Present of Coffee and Sweetmeats. During this Collation I took a minute View of the Inside of his Tent, which was really stately, and the largest that I ever saw: On the Ground there was a n.o.ble Carpet spread, and over that a Sort of Foot-cloth of Crimson Sattin, embroider'd with Gold, on which sate the Amba.s.sador, with rich Cushions about him of the same: On this same Foot-cloth, at the Amba.s.sador's Right Hand sate the Secretary of the Emba.s.sy: Round the Amba.s.sador there was about a Score of Turks tolerably well dress'd, and among them Three or Four clever likely young Fellows; in particular I observ'd a Moor there, that was the handsomest Man I ever saw: His Dress was richer than the Garb of the other Turks, and, as I was told, he was the Amba.s.sador's special Favourite. After we had talk'd awhile with him, and were taking our Leave of him, he was so civil as to offer to shew us his Camp, which we with Pleasure accepted, and set out accordingly with a Person that the Amba.s.sador gave us for our Guide.

This Camp took up more s.p.a.ce of Ground than would have serv'd for 2000 Men. The Tents were a great way from one another, and plac'd without any Order. Their Horses, Oxen and Camels were all stow'd _higledy pigledy_.

But the Amba.s.sador's particular Equipage was in a Sort of Park, inclos'd by Toils like those that are us'd in Hunting: Every thing was to the last Degree slovenly, the inferior Domestics especially were the most disagreeable Gentry I ever saw; they had not Cloaths to their Backs, but what were in Rags and Tatters; and the chief Domestics were but little better rigg'd; several of them however were mighty civil to us, and desirous to regale us in their Tents.

Some Days after this our Visit, the Amba.s.sador made his Entry with great Ceremony; the Marshal of the Court went and met him Half a League out of _Vienna_, at the Head of the Magistrates of the City, those made free by the Court, all the Trading Companies and Gentlemen, all well mounted and richly dress'd: The Amba.s.sador was dragg'd along by a Pair of wretched Horses in one of his own Coaches, which was a little low Chariot, made almost like the cover'd Waggons of _Holland_, except that instead of Wax Cloth and Leather, it was cover'd with a red Cloth. When the Amba.s.sador and the Marshal of the Court came near to one another, they both alighted, and after mutual Compliments mounted their Horses: There were carry'd before the Amba.s.sador Three Horse-Tails and the Standard of _Mahomet_, which is a great Pair of Colours of green Taffeta, all sprinkled with Crescents of Gold: He who carry'd it was on Horseback, and that the End of the Colours might not trail upon the Ground, a Man that was on Foot held up the Corners of it. The Amba.s.sador was preceded by all his Equipage, in which there was Half a Dozen of Waggons, cover'd with ragged Tilts, and drawn each by Four scrubbed Horses, that were led by Carters, whose Cloaths were in a very bad Pickle. After this Equipage came the Amba.s.sador's Officers, and then twelve Horses, of which the Sultan made a Present to the Emperor. Behind the Amba.s.sador there march'd a Company of _Spahis_, that carry'd Pikes, with small Standards at the End of various Colours. These were follow'd by a Company of _Janizaries_, who, tho' but meanly clad, made a very warlike Appearance, their Arms and Legs being both naked: The March was closed by a Regiment of _Hussars_.

This Train pa.s.s'd before the Palace call'd _la Favorita_, in View of the Emperor and Empress, and then went thro' the City, pa.s.sing the Bridge over the _Danube_, into the Suburb of _Leopoldstat_, where a House was prepar'd for him, according to antient Custom, which is, that no _Turkish_ Amba.s.sador must ever lodge in the City of _Vienna_.

The Amba.s.sador seem'd to be very scrupulous in his Observation of the Ceremonial: He was loth to consent, that the _Janizaries_ should carry their Muskets on their Shoulders, when they pa.s.s'd before the Emperor at his Palace _la Favorita_; and pleaded in Excuse, that the _Janizaries_ did not march so even in Presence of the Sultan. He stood also upon his Punctilio in some other Trifles, to which however he was oblig'd to submit, or he was threaten'd that he should not make his Entry. The Amba.s.sador on his Part to shew his Resentment, caus'd only Two Horse-Tails to be carry'd erect, and the Third downwards; but seeing that no body car'd for his being out of Humour, he soon came to himself again, and then was treated with Civility. He seem'd to be very fond of good Order, and caus'd some of his Domestics, who had committed certain Enormities, to be severely punish'd.

While the Amba.s.sador stay'd at _Leopoldstat_, _Vienna_ swarm'd with _Turks_, most of whom having never been out of their own Country, star'd with so much Surprise at every thing they saw, that it afforded daily Diversion to the Public. One Day I observ'd a _Turk_ entring _St.

Stephen_'s Church at the Time when there was no Service, nor so much as a Soul in the Church. I was so curious as to follow him at a Distance, and to observe all his Motions, which made me very merry: The Place at which he discover'd the greatest Astonishment was the Choir, the Form of the Clergy's Stalls there, the Construction of the High Altar; in a Word, every thing was to him a perfect Novelty: But the Thing which seem'd to puzzle him most of all was, a n.o.ble Lamp burning in the midst of the Choir: He turn'd round and round it again, and view'd it on every Side for a long while, but seem'd as much confounded as at first, wondring to be sure how they did to kindle it. Mean time, after a little Pause, he observ'd a String underneath it, which he took into his Head to pull, and finding that all came towards him, he brought the Lamp down to the Ground.

I observ'd that he was mightily pleas'd that he had found out the Meaning of the Difficulty which had so much perplex'd him; and when the Fire was so near him, he pull'd a long Pipe out of his Pocket with so much Gravity, that I could not help smiling; and after he had lighted it at the Lamp, he hoisted it to the Place it was in before, and then went out.

Not many Days after the Entry of the _Turkish_ Amba.s.sador was the Ceremony of the Marriage of the Archd.u.c.h.ess _Maria-Josepha_ to the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_. The Marriage had been projected a long time, and 'tis even said, that the Emperor _Joseph_ had promis'd the King of _Poland_ in Writing to give his Eldest Daughter to the Electoral Prince, on Condition that he would turn to the Catholic Religion. Meantime, while this Match hung in Suspence, the Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_ enter'd the List, which very much embarras'd the Court of _Vienna_, who did not know for which Match to determine. The Person employ'd in this Negotiation by the _Saxon_ Court was the Count _de Wackerbarth_. Soon after him the Electoral Prince in Person came to the Court of _Vienna_, and when he was oblig'd to return, he left the Count _de Lagnasco_ there to take Care of his Interest; who at length obtain'd the Emperor's Consent, and the Count _de F----_ came with the Character of Amba.s.sador to demand the Princess of the Emperor, which was done with very great Solemnity. As I was curious to know the Ceremonies usual upon such Occasions, I went to the Count _de F----_, on the Day that he was to go on the Emperor for his Audience. Who should I see arrive but the Count _D'Oropesa_, a Grandee of _Spain_, Knight of the Golden Fleece, and one of the Emperor's Chamberlains, in a Coach drawn by Six Horses, follow'd by a second Coach and Six, with the Emperor's Arms and Liveries: His Imperial Majesty's Footmen and the Count's Lackeys walk'd on each Side of the first Coach. The Count _de F----_ receiv'd the Count _D'Oropesa_ as he alighted out of his Coach, and conducted him into a Room, where Two Chairs of State were plac'd under a Canopy of Crimson Velvet, inrich'd with Embroidery and Gold Fringe; and over the Chairs was plac'd the Picture of the King of _Poland_. The Two Counts seated themselves in the Chairs of State, the Amba.s.sador giving the Right Hand to the Count. They were both cover'd, talk'd for about a Quarter of an Hour, and then went out. The Amba.s.sador stepp'd first into the Emperor's Coach, and then the Count _D'Oropesa_, the former riding forwards, and the latter backwards over-against him. Four of the princ.i.p.al _Saxon_ Gentlemen in the Amba.s.sador's Retinue went into the second Coach.

Then the March began, when one of the Coaches of the Court led the Way, follow'd by one of the Amba.s.sador's Officers, at the Head of Twenty-four of his Excellency's Lackeys; the Coach wherein the Two Counts rode follow'd next; the Emperor's Footmen and the Count _D'Oropesa_'s Lackeys walking on each Side: Then came Eight of the Amba.s.sador's Pages, Four of whom were in the _German_, and Four in the _Polish_ Dress; their Coats were of blue Velvet lac'd with Gold: Four Pages of the Back-stairs clad in blue Cloth lac'd with Gold follow'd the other Pages, and Three of the Amba.s.sador's Coaches with Six Horses each clos'd the March: In this Order did the Train arrive at the Palace; the Amba.s.sador's first Coach enter'd alone into the Inner Court, the Two others stay'd in the Outer Court. The Amba.s.sador found the Emperor under a Canopy, and in the Name of the King his Master demanded the Archd.u.c.h.ess of him in Marriage for the Electoral Prince: The Emperor made him Answer, that he was very willing, on condition that the Empress, Mother to the Archd.u.c.h.ess, and the Archd.u.c.h.ess herself gave their Consent. After this Audience the Amba.s.sador was conducted to the Empress Regent, and to the Empress Mother, of whom he made the same Demand, almost in the same Terms. The Princesses answer'd, That if the Emperor was willing, and the Empress _Amelia_ and the Archd.u.c.h.ess consented to it, they should see the Marriage concluded with Pleasure: Then the Amba.s.sador was conducted to an Audience of the Empress _Amelia_, of whom he made the same Demand, telling her too of the Answer he had receiv'd from the Emperor and the Empresses. This Empress made Answer, That the Emperor's Will was always Her's, that the Electoral Prince was a Match that she lik'd, and that she hop'd the Archd.u.c.h.ess her Daughter would not be against it; and that she would go that Instant, and let her know what he came about: At the same time she turn'd to the Countess of _Caraffa_, her Lady of Honour, and bad her send for the Archd.u.c.h.ess: This Princess, being in an adjacent Room, came that Moment, dress'd most richly: And the Empress told her what the Amba.s.sador had just declar'd to her on the Part of the King of _Poland_, relating to her Marriage with his Son the Electoral Prince: She added, that the Emperor, the Empresses and Herself had agreed to the Match; that nevertheless she was left absolutely to her own Disposal, and that the Emperor did not mean to constrain her: The Archd.u.c.h.ess made Answer, That she had no Objection to the Marriage, and that she obey'd their Imperial Majesties Orders with Respect. After this Declaration the Amba.s.sador advanc'd, and addressing himself to the Archd.u.c.h.ess, presented her with the Electoral Prince's Picture adorn'd with Diamonds, which this Princess accepted, and without looking on it gave it to the Empress her Mother: The Empress, after having diligently view'd it, went to fasten it to the Body of the Archd.u.c.h.ess's Gown, but the Amba.s.sador desir'd her Imperial Majesty to grant him that Honour; and after this Ceremony he return'd to his Palace as he came.

The Emperor, the Empress Regent and the Empress Mother went to the Apartment of the Empress Dowager, where, after mutual Compliments of Congratulation, their Majesties din'd together. In the Evening the Emperor and the Empresses went to pay a Visit to the Archd.u.c.h.ess, that was to be marry'd, where the whole Court was present, and there was great Play, after which their Imperial Majesties and the Archd.u.c.h.ess went and supp'd with the Empress _Amelia_.

Some Days after this, the Amba.s.sador of _Poland_ went again in Ceremony, but with his own Coaches, to the Palace _la Favorita_, where, in the Presence of all the Imperial Family, all the Ministers and Privy Counsellors, and the Knights of the Golden Fleece, he solemnly renounc'd the Right of Succession in the Name of the King his Master, and of the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_, in case it pleas'd G.o.d that the Emperor should dye without Male Issue. The Count _de Sinzendorf_, Chancellor of the Court, read the Act of Renunciation to all present, after which the Emperor demanded the Consent of the Archd.u.c.h.ess, and the Princess giving her said Consent, the Emperor order'd an Oath thereupon to be administer'd to her, which she took accordingly before the Archbishop of _Valencia_. This Prelate being dress'd in his Pontificalibus before an Altar that had been erected in the Chamber, gave the Book of the Gospels to the Princess, who laying her Hands thereon, solemnly renounc'd the Rights of Succession. The Amba.s.sador swore the same Thing in the Name of the King his Master, and the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_.

In a few Days after this was done, the Electoral Prince set out from _Dresden_, and came to a House made ready for him Two Leagues from _Vienna_. Having sent Notice of his Arrival to the Emperor, the Empresses and the Archd.u.c.h.ess, the Emperor dispatch'd the Count _de Molard_ the chief Steward of his Kitchen to him, as the Empresses and the Archd.u.c.h.esses did the Gentlemen of their Housholds, to compliment him thereupon: Next Day the Prince came _incognito_ to the Convent of Nuns founded by the Empress _Amelia_, who also repair'd thither with the Two Archd.u.c.h.esses her Daughters. After an Interview of about Half an Hour, the Archd.u.c.h.ess, that was to be marry'd, and the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_, went to the Church, and there confess'd; which done, the Prince return'd to his House, which, as I have had the Honour to observe to you, was Two Leagues from _Vienna_. He came again from thence next Day at Six in the Evening, and alighted at the Palace _la Favorita_, where being conducted into the great Chamberlain's Apartment, he there chang'd his Cloaths, and was then introduc'd by the great Chamberlain to the Emperor, and his Imperial Majesty led him to the Empress's Apartment, where were the Two Empress Dowagers and all the Archd.u.c.h.esses. The Emperor presented the Prince to them, and then they went to the Chapel in the following Order: The March was begun by all the Lords and Ladies of the Court; then came the Electoral Prince, with one of his Gentlemen, bearing a Wax Candlestick before him. The Emperor immediately follow'd the Prince, and then came the Three Empresses and the Archd.u.c.h.ess, who was supported by the Two Empress Dowagers, the Empress Regent walking foremost, as she always did where-ever they went: The latter had on a Straw-colour'd Gown of Silver Tissue, adorn'd with Diamonds, and her Head Dress was adorn'd all over with Pearls like Pears. The Archd.u.c.h.ess, whom I shall hereafter call the _Electoral Princess_, was also very richly dress'd; she wore a Fardingale, and her Gown was of Silver Brocade adorn'd with Diamonds: Next to the Princess the Three Archd.u.c.h.esses walk'd one after another, led each by their Equerries: These Princesses were follow'd by their Ladies, whose Dresses were of extraordinary Magnificence. As soon as the Electoral Prince and Princess were arriv'd in the Chapel, they received the nuptial Benediction from the Archbishop of _Vienna_. When the Ceremony was ended, the Imperial Family return'd to the Empress's Closet, where they stay'd near Two Hours, and then repair'd to the Table, in the same Order as they observ'd when they went to the Church. The Hall of the Festival was set off in an extraordinary manner; the Table was plac'd upon a Floor rais'd Three Steps, which form'd an oblong Square. The Emperor and the Three Empresses sate at one End; the Electoral Princess sate on the Right Side of the Table, and at the Right Hand of the Empress Mother; the Electoral Prince, who had the second Place on the Right Hand of the Princess, had a Chair with only a Back to it, and was serv'd by one of his own Chamberlains; whereas the Princess and the Archd.u.c.h.esses sate in Arm-chairs, and were attended by the Emperor's Chamberlains: Over-against the Princess, on the Left Hand of the Empress _Amelia_, sate the Archd.u.c.h.ess her Daughter, and the Two Archd.u.c.h.esses the Emperor's Sisters: The Court Ladies stood all round the Table till their Imperial Majesties had each drank once, and then they went to sit down at Tables serv'd in different Rooms, but return'd to the Desart: There was such a Number of Services, that the Supper held a long time, during which it was animated by excellent Music: In the same Room a Sort of Gallery was erected for the _Turkish_ Amba.s.sador, who saw all the Supper, and was attended by 30 of his Domestics. Care was taken to serve him with Sweetmeats and other Refreshments; and the Interpreter having ask'd him what he thought of the Magnificence of the Court of _Vienna_; he answer'd very gallantly, That n.o.ble as this Appearance was, there was nothing so grand in the whole Entertainment as the Person of the Empress.

After Supper was ended, the Empress Dowagers led the Princess into her own Apartment, and did not retire till she was in Bed: Next Day the Prince and Princess receiv'd the Compliments of the whole Court; they din'd afterwards with the Emperor and the Empresses, and at Night went and saw a new Opera, that was compos'd upon account of their Nuptials. The Emperor sate there as usual, with the Empress on his Left Hand, and the Archd.u.c.h.esses one after another in the same Row; the Electoral Princess preserv'd the Precedence due to her Birth; the Electoral Prince sate in the same Line as the Emperor, but after all the Archd.u.c.h.esses. The Opera was most magnificent, yet I thought it very tedious, for really 'twas too long; and besides, the Heat was intolerable: When the Opera was over, the Imperial Family supp'd together, as they did next Day at Dinner, which was the last Meal that the Prince and Princess made at _Vienna_; for as soon as they rose from Table, they took Leave of the Emperor and the Empresses, and set out for _Dresden_. There arose some Difficulty touching the Ceremonial that was to be observ'd as they pa.s.s'd thro' _Prague_, to avoid which the Electoral Prince went before, and pa.s.s'd round the Town; but the Princess made her Entry there.

As soon as the Princess was gone, I began to think what a tedious Journey I should have before I could join my Regiment, which, as I have had the Honour to tell you, was in _Sicily_. As this Journey would naturally keep me a long time out of my own Country, I was willing first of all to settle my Affairs. For this Reason I desir'd a Month's Furlough, and went to _Dresden_, from whence I sent for my Steward to come and meet me. I chose to stay at _Dresden_ rather than _Berlin_, not only on account of the Solemnity of the Princess's Entry, of which I was fond to be a Spectator, but because of the Enemies I had at the Court of _Prussia_, who would perhaps have done me some ill Office with the King. Having set out from _Vienna_ a few Days after the Electoral Princess, I arrived at _Dresden_ the same Day that her Highness made her Entry there. The Preparations made for receiving the Princess were of the utmost Magnificence, so that one could hardly imagine any thing more rich and gay. In order to give you some Idea of the _Polish_ Magnificence, I will resume my Narrative from the Time of the Princess's Departure from _Prague_.

As soon as the King had Notice that the Princess was gone from _Prague_, he sent the Count _de Wackerbarth_, Grand Master of the Artillery, at the Head of several Gentlemen, to meet her: The Count, who met the Princess on the Frontiers of _Bohemia_, complimented her in the King's Name, and presented those Officers to her which his Majesty sent to attend her; for till then she had been waited on by the Officers of the Emperor, who had all along defray'd her Expences. Her Highness proceeded in her Journey to _Pirna_, the first Town in _Saxony_, where she was receiv'd by the Electoral Prince, and saluted by the Cannon of the Castle of _Sonnenstein_. Next Day, at 7 o'Clock in the Morning, the Prince and Princess went on board the _Bucentaure_, which was a Galley finely rigg'd, and call'd by that Name, because 'twas built after the Model of the _Bucentaure_ of _Venice_: Their Galley was accompany'd by 100 Gondolas, painted and richly gilded, and by 12 Fregates, from 6 to 12 Guns each: All the Gondoliers and Sailors had Jackets of Sky-blue Sattin, and Breeches of yellow Sattin, lac'd with Silver. With this gallant Fleet, worthy to carry _Thetis_ and _Amphitrite_, the Prince and Princess arriv'd within Half a League of _Dresden_.

The King went in Cavalcade to the Place where the Princess landed, some Hours before her Arrival, and was attended by the n.o.bility of his Court, all richly dres'd. The King especially was attir'd most sumptuously, in shorn Velvet of a purple Colour, adorn'd with Diamonds, to the Value of Two Millions of Crowns: He caus'd his Standard to be carry'd before him by a _Polander_, arm'd _cap-a-pie_. As soon as he came to the Landing-Place, he made a Review of the Train that was to compose the Entry, and retir'd afterwards to a magnificent Tent, lin'd with yellow Velvet, adorn'd with Silver Lace, to wait the Arrival of the Princess.

As soon as the _Bucentaure_ came near enough to be seen from Land, she made a triple Discharge of all her Artillery, which were answer'd by the Cannon of Five Yatchts that were at Anchor on the _Elbe_, over-against the King's Tent, and from the Batteries on Sh.o.r.e.

During this the King went to the Ships, over a Bridge erected for that Purpose, and cover'd with green Tapistry, sprinkled with Flowers. The _Bucentaure_ dropping her Anchor, the Princess made ready to meet the King: When she came near him, she would fain have kiss'd his Hand, but the Monarch embrac'd her tenderly, and conducted her to his Tent, where he had some Conversation with the Prince and Princess, and then left them to return to _Dresden_.

The Prince and Princess sate down to Table, and a grand Breakfast was serv'd up; then the Boards of the Tent were struck down, that their Highnesses might see the Troops and Equipage march by that were to compose their Retinue at their Entry into _Dresden_: All this lasted about Two Hours; then came a stately Coach drawn by Eight Horses, being the Equipage that was for the Princess, who sate in it alone, while the Prince her Husband rode on Horseback, and they made their Entry with all the Pomp and Magnificence possible.

I own to you, _Madame_, that I was so charmed with the Disposition that was observ'd in this Procession, and especially with the Richness and Elegancy of the Habiliments, that I cannot resist the Temptation I feel to give you the Particulars, but must submit to it, tho' I run the Risque perhaps of being thought too tedious.

The Cavalcade was open'd by the King's Harbinger on Horseback, in the _Saxon_ Livery, which was yellow Cloth, with broad Lace of blue Velvet, mix'd with Silver Lace.

Then came 2 Post Masters.

The Baron _de Mordax_, Post Master General, preceded by his Domestics on Foot.