The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume II Part 1

The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz.

Volume II.

by Karl Ludwig von Pollnitz.

LETTER XXVIII.

_SIR_, _Rome, July 30, 1730._

Thus am I at length arrived at the famous City of ROME, that City which has been so long the Mistress of the World, and is still the Metropolis of _Europe_: But don't expect I should give you a perfect Description of it, because that would require a Man better skilled in Architecture than I am.

I shall only mention such things as to me appeared to be the most beautiful, or those which I thought the Reverse, and which yet the Ostentation of the _Italians_ cries up for the Wonders of the World. I shall make it my Business, to give you an Account of Things animate, much rather than those which are inanimate; the latter having been so well described, that all I could say to you upon that Head would be but a Repet.i.tion of what you have read a thousand times over.

ROME is certainly one of the finest Cities in the World; but it is not now That ROME of which we read such pompous Accounts, it having scarce any Remains left of what it was in ancient Days. Notwithstanding this, it must be owned, that it has matchless and stately Structures. Nothing is equal to its Churches, its Fountains, and some of its Palaces. At one's first Entrance thro' the Gate _del Popoli_, a Foreigner cannot but be struck with Admiration, when he looks right before him, which methought resembled the grand Decoration of a Theatre; but when I cast my Eyes to the Right and Left, the Scene was quite different: I believed I was entring into a Village. This is a Riddle, which I will now endeavour to explain to you.

When I looked strait before me, I immediately perceiv'd a Square of a triangular Form, at one Point whereof stands the Gate _del Popoli_, through which I entered, facing three very long Streets drawn to a Point, in the Shape of a Goose-foot. These Streets are separated by two Churches, the Fronts whereof are magnificent, and of regular Architecture. In the middle of the Square there's a stately Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate, which, according to the Inscription on the Pedestal, was raised by Pope _Sixtus_ V. At the foot of this Pyramid, on the Town-side, there's a Fountain. All this together makes the Square a Beauty, and seemed to be worthy of ROME: What follows appear'd to me to have the Air of a Village.

The first Thing one perceives at the Left-hand of the Square, is a Church consecrated to Our Lady, the Architecture of which is very plain; and on the same Side are several very sorry Houses, or rather Huts. The Right-hand of the Square consists of Hay-Barns, and two or three wretched Hovels.

From the Square _del Popoli_, I shall run through the three Streets which lead from thence to the chief Quarters of ROME. I shall begin with that in the Middle, which fronts the Gate. 'Tis called the Street _del Corso_, because there it is that in the Carnival Time, the _Barbary_ Horses run Races, and where there is the _Pasciggio_, or Ring, frequented every Day by the Coaches. This Street runs thro' almost all ROME, and has some fine Houses in it, particularly the Palaces _Ruspoli_, _Gicci_, _Carolis_, _Mancini_, _Pamphili_, and _Bolognetti_. It crosses the Squares of St.

_Mark_ and _Colonna_. The first is a Quadrangle, encompa.s.sed with good substantial Buildings, and adorned with the famous _Antonine_ Pillar, which the Senate caused to be erected to the Honour of _Antoninus the Pious_, whose Statue was formerly on the Top of it, but has since given place to the Effigies of St. _Paul_. St. _Mark_'s Square is so called, because it lies before the Church dedicated to the Saint of that Name. In it stands the Palace of _Venice_, a vast Pile of Building, now occupied by the Amba.s.sador of the Republic, but was the Residence of Pope _Sixtus_ V.

The second Street which takes its Rise in the Square _del Popoli_, is called _la Strada Ripetta_. It has nothing in it remarkable but the Stairs leading down to the _Tiber_, which are of a grand Design, and so contrived, that there are two Flights of a Stair-case, without Steps, for the Convenience of the Horses that carry the Goods which are landed at the Foot of the Stairs; that being one of the princ.i.p.al Ports of ROME.

The third Street, which ends in the Square of _Spain_, has also nothing in it worth seeing. To hear a _Roman_ speak of the Square of _Spain_, one would think it the finest Place in the World; but I know nothing that less deserves that Character. 'Tis much narrower in the Middle than at both Ends; it is but half-paved; and, excepting the Palace of _Spain_, which is occupied by the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_[1], the Amba.s.sador of that Crown, and the Palace _de Propaganda_, it has not one handsome House. In the Middle of it there's a plentiful Fountain, in form of a Bark, placed in an oval Bason. This Fountain stands at the Foot of a prodigious Stair-case, which leads to the Church of _Trinity on the Mountain_, belonging to the _French Minims_. 'Twas made during the Pontificate of Pope _Innocent_ XIII. of the Family of _Conti_, out of the Money which a rich _Frenchman_ left on his Death-Bed for that very Purpose. They say, that no less than 60,000 _Roman_ Crowns were expended in it; which, if true, 'twas Money very ill laid out; for the Stair-case is of a Taste perfectly _Gothic_, and so ill built, that it is actually falling to Decay, though it is not above five Years since it was finished. If the old _Romans_ were but to peep out of their Graves at this Piece of Work, I dare say, they would blush to see how their Successors build.

The Square of _Spain_, as ugly, and as much hid as it is by Houses, is the Place of Rendezvous for all the _Beau Monde_ in the City. Here the Ladies, sitting at their Ease in their Coaches, receive the Homage of the Gentlemen standing at their Coach-doors; and thus an Hour or two is spent every Evening, in breathing the worst Air in ROME, mixed with Clouds of Dust; and one is not only pester'd with Beggars, but every Minute in Danger of being crush'd to pieces between the Coaches, which press forward, without keeping their Ranks, or observing any Order. I know not how you would like it, but I am sure, for my own Part, who am not a Man for amorous Prattle, I avoid being here as much as possible, and had rather go up to the Terras, which is upon Mount _Trinity_. There I have the Pleasure to see something of what pa.s.ses in the Square of _Spain_; I extend my View over all ROME, and even into the Country beyond it, and there I breathe the fresh Air, without the Risque of being broke upon the Wheel. 'Tis true, that I see none except Abbes and Prelates; but they are not Eye-sores to me, and besides, I should find the same at the Doors of the Ladies Coaches.

Foreigners reside commonly in the Square of _Spain_, and the seven Streets which run into it. This Quarter belongs to the Jurisdiction of the _Spanish_ Amba.s.sador, whither the _Sbirri_ dare not pursue a Criminal, or to venture being seen there; for if they did, they would be attacked by Bravo's, who, like the _Swiss_ of the _Spanish_ Minister, are very jealous of their Rights of Franchise, which all Amba.s.sadors enjoy as well as he: This is often the Source of many Disorders, and, if I may venture to say it, authorizes Wickedness, because it gives the Criminals so ready an Opportunity of finding Refuge; but 'tis a rare Income for the Bravo's and their Captain; for the Libertines and Malefactors who retire into their Masters Quarter, can do no less than pay them for their Protection.

The Square of _Spain_ leads me to give you some Account of the Square _Navona_, which, tho' by no Means regular, and by much too narrow for the Length of it, may be numbered among the finest Squares in the World. 'Tis adorned with n.o.ble Fountains, two of which are worth the strict Attention of the Curious. The Middlemost, which is the largest, was erected by Order of Pope _Innocent_ X. of the Family of _Pamphili_, according to a Model by Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_, who has made a shining Display of his Art in this pompous Work. The Whole is a large oval Bason, lined with white Marble, in the Midst of which there rises a Rock, with four Grottos cut in it, and on the Top there's an Obelisk, or Spire, of oriental Granate, which was formerly in the _Circus_ of the Emperor _Antoninus Caracalla_.

At the four Corners of the Rock, there are four Statues of white Marble, sitting in Att.i.tudes equally bold and n.o.ble, which represent the four princ.i.p.al Rivers of the World, the _Ganges_, the _Nile_, the _Danube_, and _Rio de la Plata_, in the _West-Indies_. These four Statues, tho' made by different Hands, are alike beautiful, and adorned with the Attributes suitable to each Statue. The second Fountain is a white Marble Bason in an oval Figure, in the Middle of which a Triton appears sitting on a Dolphin cut in Marble, done by the Hand of the famous _Michael Angelo Buonarota_.

Opposite to the great Fountain stands the fine Church of St. _Agnes_, begun by _Innocent_ X. and finished by his Nephews the Princes _Pamphili_.

'Tis one of the most sumptuous and stately Edifices in ROME. The Inside is an Oval. It abounds every-where with Marble, Gilding, and excellent Paintings. Adjoining to this Church is a great and magnificent Palace, belonging to Prince _Pamphili_, who lets it out to the Cardinal _Corsini_[2]. There's a Gallery which is admired by the Connoisseurs in Painting.

The _Pantheon_, commonly called the Church _de la Rotonda_, because of its round Figure, is a Monument of the Magnificence of ancient ROME, which has been well preserved. _Agrippa_ caused this Temple to be built, with an Intention to dedicate it to _Augustus_ his Father-in-Law; but he afterwards devoted it to _Jupiter Ultor_, or _the Avenger_. Pope _Boniface_ I. or, as others say, _Boniface_ IV. consecrated this Temple to the True G.o.d, by dedicating it to the Holy Virgin and the Martyrs, with the t.i.tle of _Sta. Maria ad Martyres_. Nothing is more Majestic than the Portico of this Church, which is supported by sixteen Columns of oriental Granate, of a wonderful Height and Circ.u.mference, all of a Piece, and of the _Corinthian_ Order. The Church, which is round, receives Light only by an Opening in the Middle of the Roof, which is built in Form of a Dome.

The Walls are lined with Marble, even up to the Cornish which supports the Roof, and several little Chapels are cut out in the Wall. The Roof was heretofore covered with Bra.s.s, but _Urban_ VIII. stripped the Church of that magnificent Covering, and employ'd the Bra.s.s partly on the High Altar of St. _Peter_'s Church, and of the rest of it he caused those Guns to be cast that are still to be seen in the Castle of St. _Angelo_. The Pope who did this, being of the _Barberini_ Family, gave Occasion to the _Romans_, who take a Pleasure in criticising the Conduct of the Popes, to say, that the _Barberini_ had done even more than the _Barbarians_; and really, it is worthy of Remark, that in the several Sackings of ROME the _Rotonda_ was always spared.

St. _Peter_'s Church so astonished me, that I cannot pa.s.s it by in Silence. To tell you in few Words what I think of it; I believe, that though there were no other Building in ROME but this Church, it would be worth while to make a Journey hither on Purpose to see it. The Area which lies before this superb Pile, can't but be admired by all that see it.

Pope _Alexander_ VII. caused it to be laid out after the Model of my Hero in Architecture, Signior _Lorenzo Bernini_. The Form of this Area is round, and encompa.s.sed by a Peristyle of two hundred eighty-six Pillars, which leads all the way under Covert to the Church. These Columns support an Architrave adorned with a great Number of Statues, representing divers holy Martyrs. The Area is adorned with two magnificent Fountains, which continually throw out vast Sheets of Water, into three Basons, the lowermost whereof, being the largest, serves to let out the Water, which runs under Ground. An Obelisk of seventy-two Feet in Height, besides the Basis, stands up in the Middle of the two Fountains. Pope _Sixtus_ V. who may justly be reckoned the Restorer of ROME, on account of the Ornaments with which he embellished every Part of it, caused it to be set up, after 'twas dug out of the Earth, near the Place where now stands St. _Peter_'s Sacristy. He ordered it to be erected on a very high Pedestal; and Signior _Fontana_, the famous Architect, was the Man by whose Direction so immense a Weight was raised to that Height. 'Tis said, that Pope _Sixtus_ V.

commanded that every Man who a.s.sisted in raising this Obelisk should keep Silence on Pain of Death, for fear lest Talking should distract the Workmens' Thoughts, and take them off from a due Attention to the Orders of the Architect; and as they knew that _Sixtus_ would be obeyed, not a Man spoke a Word. The Work went on very well, till when the Spire was almost raised, the Ropes happened to be too short. This Accident so confounded _Fontana_, that he knew not what to do, when one of the Spectators took it in his Head to call out to him to throw Water upon the Ropes. _Fontana_ followed his Advice with such good Success, that the Pope promised a Reward for the Person who would own that he gave it: But no body cared to trust _Sixtus_; the Adviser concealed himself in the Crowd, and it could never be known who he was. The whole Height of the Obelisk, including the Base and Cross, is one hundred and eight Feet. _Sixtus_ V.

caus'd some Timber of the real Cross to be set in the Cross of gilt Bra.s.s at the Top of the Spire, and granted ten Years Indulgences to any Person that shou'd salute it, and at the same Time repeat three _Pater-nosters_, and as many _Ave Maries_.

When you have pa.s.sed over the great Square, there's an Ascent of some Steps to a grand Platform or Terras, that leads into the Portico which is before the Church. The Roof of it is supported by Columns of the _Corinthian_ Order, adorned with Ba.s.so Relievos of Marble. The Cieling is of Stukoe, divided into several Compartments in the _Mosaic_ Taste, which form the Arms of _Paul_ V. of the _Borghese_ Family; the whole gilt all over. As one turns to the Right in this Portico, one sees the Statue of _Constantine_ the Great, carved in Marble by _Bernini_, who has represented the Emperor on Horseback, in a Posture of Astonishment at the Appearance of the Cross. Over-against this Statue, on the Left-side of the Portico, is _Charlemaign_'s Statue, likewise on Horseback, done by _Augustin Cornicchini_, a Native of _Peschia_ in _Tuscany_; but 'tis not near so bold a Figure as that carved by _Bernini_. At the Entrance of the Church, we leave on the Right-hand the holy Gate, which the Pope opens and shuts every twenty-five Years, at the Time of the great Jubilee.

I must confess that the inside Decoration of St. _Peter_'s did not strike me at first View; for I imagined that every thing there must be Gold and Azure, but I was mistaken; tho', after having examined Things closely, I was, as it were, in an Ecstasy at the Variety of Beauties I there saw. The High Altar, which is almost in the middle of the Dome, is of a Magnificence not to be parallelled. It stands by itself, and is on all Sides open, consisting of four wreathed Columns of Bra.s.s, of an immense Height and Bulk, which support a Canopy of the same Metal, surmounted by Angels holding Festons of Flowers, so completely carved, that one would naturally imagine the Whole to be the Work of a Goldsmith. At this Altar none can celebrate Ma.s.s but the Pope himself, and the Cardinal Dean, by his Holiness's express Permission; and underneath, in a Chapel richly adorned, there lie some Parts of the Holy Bodies of the Apostles St.

_Peter_ and St. _Paul_. There's a Descent into this Chapel by a Stair-case of fine Marble, consisting of two Flights, in Form of a Horse-shoe, and surrounded by a Bal.u.s.trade of Bra.s.s, supporting a great many Silver Lamps, which never cease to burn, except on _Good-friday_, when the Church is hung in Mourning, in Memory of the Death of our Saviour.

At the Bottom of the Church stands, highly elevated, St. _Peter_'s Chair, a very fine Piece of Work, all of Bra.s.s, gilt, and supported by the four Fathers of the Church, St. _Ambrose_, St. _Jerome_, St. _Augustine_, and St. _Gregory_, of a gigantic Size, with a Glory of Bra.s.s, gilt, over them, raised as high as the Roof. Under the Chair is an Altar, on both Sides of which there are stately Tombs of Bra.s.s and Marble, of incomparable Workmanship and Beauty. The Mausoleum of _Urban_ VIII. on the Right Hand, has two admirable Statues of white Marble, representing two Virtues, of such exquisite Beauty, that there was a Necessity of covering their Nudities to prevent the like Scandal which a certain _Spaniard_ gave, in whom a Statue of this sort kindled an unruly Pa.s.sion. These two Tombs are not the only ones which adorn this Church; for there are many others altogether as superb; particularly, the Mausoleum of the Countess _Matilda_, and that of _Christina_ Queen of _Sweden_, to whom the Popes granted Burial in St. _Peter_'s Church, where, except the Successors of that Apostle, none can be interred. These two Princesses were of such high Birth, and had done so much for the Church, that they well deserved to be honoured with this Distinction; for the first defended the Church, at the Head of her Army, against the Emperor _Henry_ IV. the other even abdicated her Crown, and abandoned her Dominions, to embrace the _Roman_ Religion.

_Christina_'s Tomb is n.o.bly designed, without being overcharged with Ornament; and there is her Picture in a great Medal of Bra.s.s, which is perfectly well executed.

Tho' every thing in St. _Peter_'s Church is worthy of the particular Observation of a curious Traveller, I think nothing deserves it more than the n.o.ble Pictures of Mosaic Work, wherewith the Altars are decorated, than which there can be nothing more complete; for it surpa.s.ses any thing that was ever done by the Ancients. 'Tis but a few Years that the Artists have arrived to the Perfection we now discover in Works of this kind. One of these Pictures, which is just finished, represents the Story of Sta.

_Petronilla_, St. _Peter_'s Sister, so excellently designed, and so nicely coloured and polished, that nothing in the Art of Man can out-do it. One would swear 'twas a Picture behind a Gla.s.s; yet it consists only of little Gla.s.s Squares, exactly cemented together by a certain Gum that is extremely astringent. 'Tis a Piece of Work of the more Value, because it is Proof against the Injuries of Weather, and nothing can damage it. They design to remove out of this Church all the Pictures painted in Oil, which grow mouldy by Time and Moisture, and to put Pictures of Mosaic Work, in their place. If this Project, which is in a good Forwardness, and carried on apace, be ever finished, St. _Peter_'s Church will be possessed of a Treasure the more precious because there will be none like it.

The subterraneous Parts of the Church are altogether as magnificent as the Superstructure; for Marble and Pictures of the Mosaic kind are its Ornaments. 'Tis worth while to take the Pains to go up to the Top of this Church, which one ascends by a sloping Stair-case, without one Step, that leads to the Dome; and by other Stairs, not so commodious, one rises to the Globe, which, 'tis said, will hold, twenty Persons with Ease. Upon St.

_Peter_'s Day the Church is illuminated from the Foundation to the Cross, by Lamps without Number, which make a very fine Appearance.

All the other Churches of ROME are beautiful Piles, and 'tis certain that the least of 'em contains something that will entertain a curious Spectator. Those of them indeed that are the most worthy of Attention, are, St. _Paul_'s without ROME, St. _John_'s _de Lateran_, St. _Mary Major_'s, the Churches of _Jesus_, St. _Ignatius_, St. _Philip de Neri_, our Lady's of Victory, the Church of St. _Agnes_, and the Noviciate of the _Jesuits_.

As to the Foundation of St. _Mary Major_'s Church, there is a Tradition, that two Bridegrooms of Quality, both very rich and very devout, having pray'd to the Holy Virgin, that she would please to reveal to them for what good Purpose they should bestow their Wealth; the Mother of G.o.d signified to them in a Dream, that she would have them build a Church at the Place which they would find cover'd next Day with Snow; a Thing the more extraordinary at that Time, because it was the Month of _August_.

But, to the End that this Revelation might be the more authentic, the Holy Virgin imparted it the same Night to the Pope St. _Liberius_ I. who next Day made a Procession round the City, accompanied by all the Clergy, and by _John_ a Patrician, and a Senator of ROME, and found that Spot of Ground where now stands the Church of St. _Mary Major_, covered with Snow.

The Building was begun that very Day, and at first the Church was called the _Liberian_ Church, and also the Church of St. _Mary of the Manger_, because the Manger in which our Saviour lay, was there deposited; and at last it was called St. _Mary Major_, because it is the biggest of those Churches in ROME that are dedicated to the Holy Virgin.

I have been so long upon Churches, that 'tis high Time to shift the Scene.

I am now going to acquaint you of what has happened here since I came, referring what I have farther to relate to you concerning the Buildings of ROME to another Opportunity.

The Conclave is ended, and we have at last got a Pope: After tedious and warm Disputes, which had divided the sacred College for four Months, they have elected Cardinal _Corsini_. The Cardinals could not determine whom to chuse for Head of the Church, till about a Week ago. Cardinal _Imperiali_ was proposed at first, and he would certainly have been the Man, upon account of his great Age and Merit, if the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, the Minister of _Spain_, had not put the Negative upon him in the Name of their Catholic Majesties; nevertheless, 'tis the Opinion of many People, that the Cardinal had no such Order in his Pocket at that Time, tho' he had it at the Election of Pope _Conti_; because out of personal Pique to Cardinal _Imperiali_ he had represented him to his Master as an Enemy to the House of _Bourbon_, and too much attached to the Emperor. Probably the Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ thought, that because their Catholic Majesties did, at his Solicitation, grant an Exclusion to Cardinal _Imperiali_ that Time, it was to continue for ever; at least, his unreasonable Grudge against his Eminence made him take that Handle. The Reason he bore him so much ill Will was this; _Bentivoglio_ had a Brother, a Marquis, who, for certain Outrages which he had caused to be committed by his Bravoes, was arrested by Order of this very _Imperiali_, when he was Legate of the Holy See at _Ferrara_. Cardinal _Bentivoglio_, who was a proud haughty Man, took this as such an Affront to his Family, that he could never forget it; and as the _Italians_ seldom lose an Opportunity of taking Revenge, he laid hold on this: So that Cardinal _Imperiali_ came short of the _Tiara_, merely for having done an Act of Justice.

Cardinal _Imperiali_ being thus set aside, _Corsini_ was proposed for Pope; but his Eminence fearing he should be excluded by the _Germans_, pretended an Unwillingness to accept of the Pontificate, and desired his Brethren to cast their Eyes upon some other Person. _Davia_ was proposed, and would undoubtedly have been in St. _Peter_'s Chair, if Cardinal _de Bissi_, a _Frenchman_, had not excepted against him, on pretence that he was a _Jansenist_. 'Tis true, that Cardinal _Davia_ was never a great Friend of the _Jesuits_, and that M. _Bissi_ is a Man after their own Hearts: The Society, indeed, is accused of having put the _French_ Cardinal upon it; but this is what I won't swear. Though, be it as it will, I think, if the Society were convinced that _Davia_ was their Enemy, they did very wisely to set him aside. During this, Cardinal _Corsini_, who still kept the triple Crown in View, and had only declined it for fear of being opposed by the Imperial Cardinals, wrote to the Great Duke, and to the Grand Princess _Violante_, desiring the former to intercede for him directly with the Emperor, and the latter with the _Bavarian_ Family; to the end that Family might do him good Offices at _Vienna_. His Wishes were accordingly answered; for the Great Duke earnestly desired the Emperor to consent to the Election of _Corsini_, and he obtained for Answer, that his Imperial Majesty would order his Cardinals not to oppose him. _Corsini_ having this favourable Answer, engaged his Friends to bring him again upon the Stage. And the Cardinal Chamberlain _Albano_, the Head of the Cardinals, made by _Clement_ XI. his Uncle, spoke for him to all of his Party, who accordingly gave their Votes for him; but Cardinal _Barberini_ hearing that _Corsini_ was going to be proposed a second time, declared openly against him; and said, he would never consent to his Election. The Chamberlain was in no great Pain for this Opposition; for he was much more apprehensive of the Imperialists, and particularly of the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who was very earnest for the Election of _Colonna_, or some other Subject of the Emperor. The Chamberlain therefore went at Midnight to the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, and proposed the Choice of _Corsini_ to him; and not finding him intirely for it, he threw himself at his Feet, and conjured him for G.o.d's sake not to oppose the said Cardinal's Advancement.

'You see, said he, that we cannot agree in the Choice of a Pope. Will you end your Days here? 'Tis now four Months that we have been shut up. What have you to say against _Corsini_? He is old, and, according to the Course of Nature, cannot live longer than the Time it will take us up to destroy the Factions that are among us. If you have a Notion that he is not in the Interests of the Emperor, you perceive that it can't be long in his Power to hurt him. Moreover, if you consent to his Advancement, he will be obliged to own his Obligation to the Emperor for the Pontificate, and consequently cannot but make him an Acknowledgment.' The Cardinal Chamberlain water'd his Discourse with a great many Tears, for the good Man can weep when he will. This so moved _Cienfuegos_, who is the best-natured Soul in the World, that he gave his Consent to the Election of _Corsini_. But then the _French_ feigned they would not be for him any longer, and pretended to take Umbrage at the _Germans_ espousing the Man whom they had before opposed. They stood out abundance of Intreaty, but at length they consented, saying, that since the _Germans_ made the Pope, they would name the Minister; which was granted them. They nominated Cardinal _Banchieri_, who had been Vice-Legat at _Avignon_, to be Secretary of State. The Cardinal _Cienfuegos_, who was puffed up with the Thoughts of having made the Pope, did not so much as think of opposing the _French_ in the Nomination of a Minister who was intirely devoted to them.

Many People of very good Sense are of Opinion that the _Germans_ were bubbled in this Affair, and that the _French_ made both the Pope and the Minister. Whether 'twas so or not, I cannot say; the Intrigues of the Conclaves will never be rightly known, but in the Valley of _Jehosaphat_; yet it seems to me, that since we have been the Masters of _Italy_, we are even more hated there than the _French_ ever were, and 'tis certain that they were hated there with a Vengeance. 'Tis very probable, therefore, that the _Italian_ Cardinals had it not very much at Heart, to give us a Pope that was in our Interest. Be this as it will, even to the very Day of the new Pope's Exaltation, all the City of ROME thought the Cardinal _Cienfuegos_ Master of the Conclave; which is so true, that among the Satires current during the Vacancy of the Holy See, the Cardinal was exhibited at a Window of the Conclave, taking Aim with a Fuzee at the Holy Ghost, which was hovering about the Place, in form of a Dove.

Cardinal _Corsini_ was proclaimed Pope on _Wednesday_ the 12th of _July_, in the Morning. He took the Name of _Clement_ XII. in Honour to the Memory of _Clement_ XI. who made him a Cardinal. He is in the 78th Year of his Age. All good People are pleased at his Advancement, and since the _Romans_ could not get a _Roman_ for their Pope, they are not sorry that he was preferred to his Compet.i.tors. He was generous and n.o.ble, good-natured, mild, and affable, while a Cardinal, and we may expect that he will not hide those Qualities now he is a Pope.

In the Afternoon of his Advancement to the Pontificate, _Clement_ XII.

received a Visit from the Pretender, and the Princess his Lady, who are here styled the _King_ and _Queen_ of _England_. After he had conversed a while with them, he went on Foot to the Chapel of Pope _Sixtus_, and placed himself on a Seat before the Altar, where he received the Adoration of the Cardinals, who came according to their Seniority, and kneeling down, kissed his Foot, and his Right-hand. The Pope embraced them one after the other, and gave them the _Pax_ to kiss. 'Tis only upon that Day and the Coronation-day, that the Cardinals kiss the Pope's Foot; for afterwards, they only kiss his Hand. When this first Ceremony was over, the Pope was seated in his Chair of PROCESSION, which is a great Arm-chair, adorned with red Velvet, richly embroidered with Gold; and then eight Men took him upon their Shoulders, and carry'd him thro' the great Stair-case to St. _Peter_'s Church. When they came before the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, the Pope was set down; and rising from his Chair, he went and kneeled at a Desk prepared for the Purpose. After a short Prayer, he returned to his Chair, and was carried towards the High Altar, where he was seated in the Middle. There the Cardinals paid another Adoration to him, like that which they made to him in _Sixtus_'s Chapel; and then the Pope was carried into a Pew, near the Altar, where he put off his Mitre and Cope, and being put into a Sedan, returned to his Apartment, where he quickly after received the Compliments of the Amba.s.sadors, the _Roman_ Princes, and of all the Quality of ROME; and in the Evening, there were Illuminations and Bonfires throughout the City, accompanied with a Discharge of the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_.

The same Rejoicings were continued next Day, which the Pope spent in giving Audiences, and naming his Ministers. Then it was, that at the Recommendation of the _French_, he appointed the Cardinal _Banchieri_ Secretary of State. They say, that in the Evening, _Clement_ XII. had a long Conversation with the Persons who had the greatest Share of his Confidence when he was a Cardinal, and asked them, what they said at ROME about his Exaltation. One of them intreated to be excused from telling him, but the Pope injoining him to declare the whole Truth to him, the Confident obeyed, and told the Pope that the _Romans_ seemed to approve of the Choice which the Cardinals had made; but that they were apprehensive they should have no better Treatment from the _Florentines_, than they had from the _Beneventines_, under the last Pontificate. 'The _Romans_,'

said the Pope, 'are afraid then without a Cause; for I will have no Respect of Persons, but will so govern, that if I don't win the Love of my Subjects while I live, they shall, at least, be sorry when I die.' Then turning about to his Nephew the Marquis _Neri Corsini_, now a Cardinal, whom he had made a Prelate but the Day before; 'I exhort you, Nephew, _said he_, to behave so as to offend n.o.body. My Reign cannot be long. My Age and my Infirmities ought to put me upon thinking of the Grave, much rather than of human Grandeur. Let you and I live then so, that our Name may not be hated when I am no more seen; and let us, if possible, so carry it to Mankind, that I may be lamented after Death, and that you may not want Friends.' 'Twas with such Sentiments as these, that _Clement_ XII.

ascended the Throne of St. _Peter_.

The Ceremony of his Coronation was performed on the 16th of _July_, and I can a.s.sure you, that, setting aside the Number of Cardinals and Bishops who attended at it, there was nothing in it magnificent. The Pope, vested in his _Pontificalibus_, and preceded by the Sacred College, went in Procession to _Sixtus_'s Chapel, where he made a very short Prayer, and then was carried thro' the grand Stair-case under St. _Peter_'s Portico, where he was seated on a Throne, and admitted St. _Peter_'s Chapter to kiss his Foot. He was from thence carried into the Church, and put down at the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament, before which he made his Prayer kneeling, as did also the Cardinals. After this Prayer, he was carried to the Chapel of St. _Gregory_ the Great, where he made another short Prayer prostrate before the Altar. Then he was placed in a Throne on the Right-side of the Altar, and the Cardinals seated themselves upon Benches, on both Sides of the Chapel. While the Musick was performing a _Tercet_, they put on their white Copes, embroidered with Gold, and their Mitres of white Damask, and the Archbishops and Bishops did the same. After this, they went all, both Cardinals and Prelates, to perform Homage to the Pope, with this Distinction, that the Cardinals kissed only the Hand of the Holy Father, but the Prelates kissed his Hand and his Foot too. When this Ceremony was ended, the Pope caused the Crucifix to be elevated, and gave his first Blessing to the Standers-by, and the Populace, thereto annexing a plenary Indulgence _in articulo mortis_. He afterwards descended from his Throne, put himself again in his Chair of Procession, and was carried before the High Altar. He was the only Person that had then the Mitre on his Head; for the Cardinals and Prelates held theirs in their Hands. While he was thus carried in Procession, a Master of the Ceremonies went before him, burning Flax three times, calling out aloud at each time to him, _Sancte Pater! sic transit Gloria Mundi_: i. e. _Holy Father! so pa.s.seth away the Glory of the World_. This Exhortation to the Remembrance of the Frailty of human Greatness seemed to me to touch the Pope's Heart; for he lifted up his Eyes to Heaven, and the very Tears trickled down his Cheeks.

When he drew near the Altar, he fell on his Knees, and prayed with a great deal of Devotion and Humility. He then received the Benediction of three of the eldest Cardinal Priests, and the first Cardinal Deacon presented him with the Pall; after which, he went up to the Altar, perfumed it with Incense, and then caused himself to be seated in his Throne, which was erected at the Bottom of the Church, facing the Altar. The Cardinals sat upon high Benches, on both Sides the Throne, in two Ranks, leading to the Altar. The Persons whom they here call the King and Queen of _England_, with the Princes their Sons, and their whole Court, were in a Gallery on the Right-hand of the Throne, and in another Gallery opposite to this, were the princ.i.p.al Ladies of ROME, and the most distinguished Foreigners.

I was there in the Retinue of the Prince of _Waldeck_, who has been here these two Months.

From that Gallery, we saw the Cardinals, the Archbishops, and the Bishops, pay their Homage to the Pope; which was performed by kissing the Pope's Hand and Foot. Then the Pope tuned High Ma.s.s, at which the Epistle and Gospel were sung, both in _Greek_ and _Latin_, by a _Greek_ Bishop and a Cardinal Deacon. The Pope, after he had performed the Consecration, returned to his Throne, where a Cardinal a.s.sistant Priest carried the consecrated Host to him, and the Chalice, of both of which the Pope took one half kneeling and bare-headed. He sucked the Divine Blood, according to a Custom, thro' a golden Tube; and when the Cardinal a.s.sistant Priest had taken the half that remained, both of the consecrated Host, and the Chalice, the Ma.s.s was ended. After the Office was over, the Pope, preceded by the Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, was carried in grand Procession to the Gallery which is over the great Gate of the Church, fronting the great Square, where he was seated on a very high Throne, in order to be seen by the People; and after two Cardinal Deacons had taken off his Mitre, and put on his _Tiara_, kissing at the same Time both his Hand and Face, the Pope rose up, and gave his solemn Benediction standing, to the People that were crowded in St. _Peter_'s Square, and the Streets that led to it: At the same Time the Cannon of the Castle of St. _Angelo_ were fired, and the Light-horse Carabineers and Guards made a Discharge of their small Arms. Then the Pope descended from the Throne, and being again placed in his Chair, was carried in Procession to his Apartment, where he dismissed the Cardinals, who, I believe, wanted Rest as well as the Holy Father, after a Ceremony which had lasted five Hours. At Night the Houses were all illuminated, and a fine Firework was play'd off at the Castle of St. _Angelo_.

Here give me Leave to make a Remark upon an Author, in whose Favour I have seen you prepossessed, namely, Mr. _Misson_, who, in his Account of the Pope's Coronation, the Ceremony of which, he says, he copied out of the Ceremonial of ROME, describes this Act as the most magnificent and superb that can possibly be seen; for, according to him, the Pope's Throne is covered with precious Stones, tho' I a.s.sure you, that there cannot be a greater Mistake; for if, as I said once before, we except the many Cardinals, Bishops, and Prelates, whose Presence renders the Ceremony august, nothing is more plain and simple. St. _Peter_'s Church, indeed, is hung upon that Day with red Damask, laced with gold Tinsel, but 'tis the very same upon every grand Festival; nor is St. _Peter_'s Throne, upon this Occasion, richer than ordinary; and I can't imagine where _Misson_ could see those Canopies covered with precious Stones. That Author really affected to impose on his Readers, and this is not the only Place where he has deviated from the Truth.

The first Pope, who caused himself to be crown'd, was _Damasus_ II. in the Year 1048. And _Urban_ V. was the first that used the triple Crown, commonly called the _Tiara_; and this he did, to shew that the Vicar of _Jesus Christ_ has Pontifical, Imperial, and Regal Power; and for the same Reason, St. _Peter_ was anciently described (as is still to be seen in the Palace of the _Vatican_) holding three Keys in his Right-hand.

Not many Days after the Coronation, the Pope quitted the _Vatican_, and took up his Residence in the Palace of _Monte Cavallo_. The Holy Father marched out with a Pomp which pleased the _Romans_, who are naturally fond of Pageantry; and they were the more delighted with this, because they had seen nothing like it during the Pontificate of the deceased Pope. He rode in a very splendid Coach, preceded by the _Roman_ n.o.bility on Horseback, his Guards, and all his Houshold, which formed a numerous Train. The Streets were full of People, who nevertheless discovered no Signs of Joy, as is usual when the Popes go abroad; for the _Romans_, when they saw _Clement_ XII. remember'd that he was a _Florentine_; and there needed nothing more to put them out of Conceit with him. I am, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

[Ill.u.s.tration]