The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume I Part 22

XI, and XII. Opinions are very much divided about the Persons who are represented by these two Statues; but 'tis generally thought they are the Emperors _Charles_ V. and _Ferdinand_ I.

XIII. The Emperor _Frederic_ IV. Father to _Maximilian_ I.

XIV. _Albert_ II. Emperor, King of _Hungary_ and _Bohemia_, and Father to the unfortunate King _Ladislaus_.

XV. _Clovis_, the first Christian King of _France_, who is plac'd among the Princes of the House of _Austria_, because their Genealogists derive them from the ancient _Franks_ who subdued _France_.

XVI. _Philip_ I. call'd the Fair, King of _Spain_.

XVII. The Emperor _Rodolph_ I.

XVIII. The Archduke _Albert_, call'd the _Wise_.

XIX. _Theodoric_ King of the _Goths_. I am not a Genealogist good enough to tell you in what Relation he stands to the House of _Austria_.

XX. _Ernest_, Archduke, Grandfather to _Maximilian_ I.

XXI. _Theodebert_ Count of _Provence_, from whom descended the Dukes of _Burgundy_ and the Counts of _Hapsburg_.

XXII. _Arthur_, Prince of _Wales_, who marry'd _Catherine_ of _Arragon_.

XXIII. _Sigismond_, Archduke and Count of _Tirol_, who adopted the Emperor _Maximilian_ I.

XXIV. _Blanche Mary_, the second Wife of _Maximilian_ I. which Princess was the Daughter of _John Galeas_ Duke of _Milan_.

XXV. _Margaret_, Daughter of _Maximilian_ I. who was marry'd first to _John_ a Prince of _Spain_, and secondly to _Philibert_ Duke of _Savoy_.

XXVI. _Cimburge_, Wife of _Ernest_ the Archduke, and Mother to the Emperor _Frederic_ IV.

XXVII. _Charles_ the _Bold_, Duke of _Burgundy_, Father to _Mary_ of _Burgundy_ who was Wife to _Maximilian_ I.

XXVIII. _Philip_, Duke of _Burgundy_, Father to _Charles_ the _Bold_.

Besides these twenty-eight Statues there are twenty three others plac'd upon the Cornish of the Portico which separates the Nave from the Choir: They are of Bra.s.s two Foot high, and represent those Kings and Princes whom the Church honours as Saints.

I am farther to acquaint you of the Chapel of this Church, call'd the Silver Chapel, because of the Image of the Virgin there of solid Silver as big as the Life in the middle of the Altar, with a great many Images of Saints all of the same Metal. The Ascent to this Chapel is by a winding Stair-Case. Here is to be seen the stately Tomb of _Ferdinand_ Archduke of _Austria_, Count of _Tirol_, Son to the Emperor _Ferdinand_ I. This Mausoleum is under an Arch which is pretty high. _Ferdinand_, whose Figure is of white Marble, seems to be asleep upon a Bed of black Marble rais'd one Foot from the Ground. The whole Arch is lin'd with Marble of various Colours, forming divers Compartments of very curious Workmanship, where you see the Arms of the Provinces reduc'd to the Obedience of the House of _Austria_: The different Colours are shewn by precious Stones enchas'd in Marble, and so curiously done that the Work seems to be enamel'd. Round the same Arch are plac'd five Bas-Reliefs, representing in as many Pictures the memorable Actions of _Ferdinand_. Five other Bas-Reliefs contain the Images of that Prince's Patrons, _viz._ JESUS CHRIST, St. _Anthony_ of _Padua_, St. _George_, St. _Thomas_, and St.

_Leopold_.

Near the said Tomb stands that of _Philippina_ of _Welserin_, who was born at _Augsburg_, and the Wife of the Archduke _Ferdinand_, by whom she had two Sons, _Charles_ the Margrave of _Burgau_, and _Andrew_ Cardinal of _Austria_. This _Mausoleum_ is of Free-stone and has nothing remarkable more than the following Epitaph:

FERDINANDUS D. G. ARCHIDUX, DUX BURGUNDIae, COMES TIROL, PHILIPPINae CONJUGI CHARISSIMae FIERI CURAVIT. OBIIT 24 Aprilis, 1580.

The Franciscan who shew'd me this Chapel a.s.sur'd me that it was one of the First-rate Chapels in the World, on account of the Indulgences which had been annex'd to it by the Beneficence of the Popes; that it was upon a par with the Chapel of the _Holy Sepulchre_ at _Jerusalem_, with the Churches of _St. John de Lateran_, _St. Mary major_, and _St. Gregory_ at _Rome_; and that, in fine, a Ma.s.s said in this Chapel for the Repose of a Soul departed, was enough to deliver it out of Purgatory.

These, Sir, are the Remarks that I made in this City, from whence I am making ready to set out to-morrow. I expect to be well jolted all the way to _Venice_, where to make my self amends I will take my Pleasure in a _Gondola_. I wish with all my heart I had your Company there; we should then have the Satisfaction of seeing a great many fine Sights together.

But for want of this Satisfaction I shall never cease to think of you; and pray don't forget me, but believe me to be for ever, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER XXV.

_SIR_, _Venice, April_ 27, 1730.

I wrote to you from _Inspruc_ the very Day before I set out from thence for this Place, to which I arriv'd without any Misfortune. About three quarters of a League from _Inspruc_ we came among very tiresome and disagreeable Mountains, the highest of which is call'd the _Brenner_, a Name that the Country People gave it when they clear'd it of the Wood, and burnt it. This Mountain is much more rugged on the side of _Trent_ than 'tis towards _Inspruc_; 'tis for nine Months together cover'd with Snow, and I found a great deal remaining on it still; yet 'tis inhabited to the very Top. There is a Post-House, a Tavern, and a Chapel in which Ma.s.s is only said when the Snows are melted: It produces Corn and Hay in abundance. Near the Post-House there is a considerable Spring which at first forms a large Basin, and then divides into two Torrents which quickly change into Rivers, one whereof falls into the _Inn_ above _Inspruc_, and the other, after becoming navigable two Leagues from _Bolsano_, loses itself in the _Adige_ above _Trent_. The Pa.s.sage of the _Brenner_ is very painful, and sometimes impracticable when it snows or rains; so that Travellers are often oblig'd to stay several Days till the Return of fair Weather, which is the more inconvenient because the Inns on both Sides are of the worst sort.

_Stertzingen_ a little Town four Post-Stages from _Inspruc_, has nothing remarkable; however I was well accommodated there. Next Day I went and din'd at BRIXEN an Episcopal City in an agreeable Valley, where I found the Season very forward. The Country between _Brixen_ and _Bolsano_ is extremely populous, and so manur'd that the steepest Mountains are cultivated.

BOLSANO is a pretty Town well inhabited, and drives a considerable Trade, having no less than four Fairs a Year. Its Situation is very agreeable, in the middle of a fine large Valley full of Villages and Vineyards. The Air here is much softer than in the rest of _Tirol_, and I found Trees here in full Verdure while in the Country they were but just budded. The Vines are very carefully watched by Men who keep Guard in Huts rais'd upon three Poles plac'd cross-wise, and high enough to command the Vineyards.

_Misson_ in his Voyage to _Italy_ says, that these Huts or _Guerites_ were for lodging the Guards that are posted to hinder the Bears from eating the Grapes. I know not who could tell him that there were any Bears in this Country, and if there are 'tis hardly probable they would venture into a Valley so populous as that of _Bolsano_. The Wines of this Valley are the best in all _Tirol_; but they must be drank, as must all the Wines of this Country, the very Year of their Growth, or else they grow luscious, and then turn crabbed.

The Valley of _Bolsano_ which extends to _Trent_ is throughout equally agreeable; and is not inc.u.mber'd by those horrid Mountains that we were pester'd with in the Road from _Inspruc_.

TRENT is celebrated for the Council formerly held there. I went to see the Church of St. _Mary major_, where the Fathers of that Council held their a.s.sembly. It has nothing remarkable besides its Organs which are of too enormous a Size for a Church, but are a very curious piece of Work; for they not only exhibit various Sounds, but imitate Vocal Music, the Notes of divers Birds, and the Noise of Kettle-Drums and Trumpets. The Bishop of _Trent_ is a Prince of the Empire. The See is now vacant by the Death of the Count _de Wolckenstein_ the last Bishop. The Chapter has fix'd the Election for next _May_. A great many Travellers highly extol the Bishop's Palace, but for my own part, I was not so fortunate as to observe any thing in it that was worthy of Attention.

Throughout all _Tirol_ the Common People are very ill-favour'd: Most of the Women are disguis'd by Wens in their Throat[160], and as if that was not enough they disfigure themselves by their Dress. The Country Women wear Stockings which have no Feet, and are gather'd into many little Folds from the Ancle to the Calf of the Leg: Their Shoes are exactly like those the Men wear. Their Petticoats are exceeding short, and ty'd up almost as high as their b.r.e.a.s.t.s which are very large. With all this they have a Pair of Stays which reaches down to their Waist, and renders them compleatly deform'd. Instead of other Head-dress they wear a green high-crown'd Hat, the Brims of which are let down, and is as unbecoming a part of their Dress as any of the rest. At _Brixen_ the Blood mends, the Women are handsomer, the Men more genteel, and the People in general more civiliz'd; tho' take 'em all together the _Tirolese_ are very honest People. They are staunch zealous Catholics, tho' they say that some of the Peasants, are _Lutherans_. The _Holy Virgin_ and St. _Christopher_ are the princ.i.p.al Objects of the People's Devotion: The latter is painted on all their Houses, and the Roads are full of little Chapels of the _Virgin_ who is represented in all manner of ways. I have seen her painted in a Chapel standing with a great Veil over her Head which she extended with her Arms to cover the Pope, the Emperor, seven Kings, and as many Electors, who seem to be prostrate at her Knees.

As I left _Trent_ I began to ascend a Mountain which does not become smooth till we reach to _Berschen_ which is a Post-Stage and a half from _Trent_. This Mountain is exceeding steep, troublesome, and tiresome, and after 'tis pa.s.s'd, one is in a manner buried among Rocks and horrid Mountains which seem as if they would fall on the Heads of the Travellers; and I have been a.s.sur'd that this sometimes happens in rainy Weather, when so many Pieces crumble off of the Rock that it requires 4 or 500 Carts to clear the Roads. In short, all the Way till one comes within a League of _Bossagno_ a City in the State of _Venice_ is full of Rocks and Precipices; but from that Town to _Mestre_ which is four Post-Stages from it, the Country is the finest in the World; and in short, every thing is good and pleasant except their Wine and their publick Houses. The Wine has naturally a musty Taste, and no Body, and the Colour is like that of the thick Wine of _Bourdeaux_. This Country so abounds in Quails that the Post-Master of _Bossagno_ a.s.sur'd me he had taken 720 in a Morning, that he drove a great Trade with 'em, and sent some of 'em to the State of _Venice_, and to _Lombardy_. Whether he said true, I know not, but he shew'd me 1100 live Quails which he kept in Wicker-Cages in a great Barn where he had hung all the Cages to Pack-Thread to keep them from Rats and Cats.

At MESTRE one embarks for _Venice_ which is about seven Leagues from it; I made the Voyage in a Gondola in less than an Hour and half. As I travell'd post to _Mestre_, my Gondoliers, when I came to _Venice_, carry'd me to the Post-Office, where I was oblig'd to tell my Name, and the Business for which I came to _Venice_; but this is a Ceremony to which they who don't travel post are not subject. I went and took up my Lodging at the _White Lion_, highly rejoic'd that I could rest my self there after my Fatigue, and that I had lost sight of the _Alps_, those horrid Mountains which no body would chuse to live amongst but a _Swiss_ or a _Tirolese_, who, as Cardinal _Bentivoglio_ justly observes in his Voyage to _Swisserland_, are a People made for the _Alps_, and the _Alps_ for them.

As I have been twice before at _Venice_, I serve as a _Cicerone_[161] to two _Bohemian_ Counts whom I was acquainted with at _Prague_, and whom I happen'd to meet with at my Quarters. As 'tis customary to do to all Foreigners, I began with shewing them the Square of St. _Mark_, the chief Square of _Venice_, if not of the whole World. 'Tis adorn'd by the Palace of the _Doge_, the Church of St. _Mark_, and the _Procuraties_, or Houses of the Procurators, and has been pav'd within these few Years with great Squares of Free-stone. We ascended the famous Tower of St. _Mark_ which is a four-square Building, by a Stair without Steps. It was built by the Doge _Domingo Morosini_, to serve as a Watch-Tower to Ships at Sea; and that it might be seen a great way off he caus'd the Angel on the top of it to be gilt; but Time the Destroyer of all Things has stripp'd off the Gold. From this Tower one sees the whole City of _Venice_, the neighbouring Islands, and the _Terra Firma_, which all together makes a n.o.ble Prospect.

We afterwards enter'd St. _Mark_'s Church, which is an Edifice of _Grecian_ Architecture, pretty dark and not very high, but after all, full of Curiosities worthy the Attention of a Traveller. As this Church has been describ'd with more Exactness than I can pretend to, I shall treat very succinctly of the chief Things which it contains. The grand Portico is so low that one must even go down some Steps to enter into the Church.

There is a Platform over it on which are plac'd four brazen Horses brought from _Constantinople_, to which they were first carry'd from _Rome_ by _Constantine_ when that Prince transferr'd the Seat of the Empire from the one City to the other. Nothing is so magnificent and beautiful as those Horses. They were heretofore all over gilt, but People out of mere Avarice sc.r.a.p'd off great part of the precious Metal, and all the rest is almost worn off by Time.

At the Entrance of the Church on the right-hand Side there is a square Stone which seem'd to me to be of white Marble, and is said to be a piece of the Rock which _Moses_ struck in the Wilderness, whereupon there issued out Water. If this be really that Stone, what that Legislator did is so much the more to be admir'd, and may be reckon'd doubly miraculous; first in fetching Water to a Place where there was none before, and then the bringing a quant.i.ty of it through four Holes no bigger than Pease sufficient to quench the Thirst of so numerous a Mult.i.tude. The Pavement of this Church is very grand, being of _Mosaic_ Work exceedingly diversify'd with Stones of various Colours, Marble and Porphyry: But the stateliest Thing in all the Church are the Ornaments of the Altar for the great Holidays, of which that of St. _Mark_ the Patron of the Republic is the most strictly kept. St. _Mark_'s Treasure is then all laid open, which consists in the rich Spoils taken from the Emperors of _Constantinople_.

Every part shines with solid Gold, Pearls, and Diamonds; so that the Temple of _Jerusalem_ excepted, I believe there's not a House devoted to G.o.d that could ever boast of so much Riches. All this Treasure is kept in St. _Mark_'s Tower, and none of it can be taken out but in presence of one of the Procurators, who must also be at the Altar when the Treasure is plac'd on it, and dare not stir from it till 'tis put up safe again.

St. _Mark_'s Church serves as a public Chapel to the Doge, who always is or at least ought to be attended thither by the Pope's Nuncio and the Amba.s.sadors; but M. _de Gersi_ the _French_ Amba.s.sador, from I know not what Punctilio of Honour, avoids being present at the same Functions with the Count _de Bolagnos_ the Emperor's Amba.s.sador[162], whom he can't endure to see go before him. When the Doge goes to St. _Mark_'s Church 'tis always with great Ceremony: He walks between the Pope's Nuncio and the Emperor's Amba.s.sador, and the other Amba.s.sadors walk in the same Row according to the Rank of their Masters. They are preceded by six Trumpets, and six Banners are born before the Doge together with a Chair or Stool of State, there being no Back to it, and a Cushion of Gold Brocade. The Prince is dress'd in a long Robe of Gold Brocade also lin'd and fac'd with Ermin. The Senators follow him in Robes of red Damask, walking two and two. He is receiv'd at the Entrance of the Church by the Clergy of St.

_Mark_ who bring him Holy Water and Incense, which the Amba.s.sadors receive after him. His Serenity and the Amba.s.sadors fall on their Knees in the middle of the Nave, and then repeat the Prayers of _Domine salvum fac Principem nostrum_. Afterwards the Doge goes and places himself at the End of the Choir on the right Hand as we go in, and sits in the first upper Row of the Canons with the Pope's Nuncio on his Right and the Emperor's Amba.s.sador on the Right of the Nuncio, and so on with the rest. The Doge does not sit down 'till the Senators are all enter'd, who, as they pa.s.s by his Serenity, make him a profound Obeisance, to which the Doge makes no manner of return. When every body is seated, the Doge accompany'd by the Amba.s.sadors advances towards the Altar, the Nuncio strikes up High Ma.s.s and says the Overture, to which the Doge answers. After this, the Doge and the Amba.s.sadors return to their Places, and the Prelate of St. _Mark_ who is in waiting, continues the Office.

After the Ma.s.s is over, the Doge returns to his Palace attended by the same Train that accompanied him to Church. When he has ascended the grand Stair-case of his Palace he seats himself in an Arm-Chair which is plac'd over-against the Stair-case. After he has sate a few Moments, he dismisses the Amba.s.sadors and the other Persons of his Retinue, and retires to his Apartment.

Next to St. _Mark_'s Church is the Doge's Palace, a vast Building, of which you will find a large Account in _Misson_'s Travels.

The present Doge is _Aloisio Mocenigo_[163], a Prince as much to be respected for his Merit as for his Dignity. He is a Gentleman of great Sagacity, talks well, is very polite, and has infinitely more Generosity than is ascribed to those of his Country. He is a handsome Man, and has a n.o.ble Aspect that is improv'd by his white Locks of Hair which render him venerable. Before he was advanc'd to be a Doge, which was in 1722, he serv'd the Republic with distinction in quality of Generalissimo. The vain Honours which this new Dignity has procur'd him have not puff'd him up, and he seems to think them rather a Burden than a Pleasure. Before he came to be Doge he was the most sociable n.o.bleman at _Venice_, and he now sees more Company than ever his Predecessors did. He masks himself at publick Rejoicings, goes out every Night in a common Gondola without Guard or Retinue, and diverts himself at his Brother's. He has sometimes too been upon _Terra Firma_, not valuing it tho' he lost for a while all the Honours annexed to his Dignity as Doge; for you know that this Character does not go beyond the Lakes. He is oblig'd to be present at all the public Ceremonies, tho' very much against his Inclination and Temper, which is far more uniform than that of the other _Italians_.

The Ceremony in which he shines with the greatest l.u.s.tre, is that of marrying the Sea, which without dispute is one of the finest Shews in all the World. 'Tis perform'd on _Ascension-Day_, when the Doge, the Amba.s.sadors, and the Senate ride out into the _Adriatic_ on board a Vessel call'd the _Bucentaur_, attended by the State-Gondolas of the Amba.s.sadors gilded, with a vast number of other Gondolas and Gallea.s.ses which surround the _Bucentaur_, the most stately Vessel that was ever built, and more magnificent than all that History (or even Romance) tells us of the sumptuous Vessel of _Cleopatra_. When the Doge goes on board the _Bucentaur_ he is saluted by the great Guns from the Galleys, the Men of War, and the Merchant-Ships in the Harbour; and while he performs the Ceremony of marrying the Sea by throwing in a Ring to denote the Sovereignty of the Republic over the Gulph, there's nothing heard but Kettle-Drums, Trumpets, and Concerts of Music, with the loud Acclamations of the People.

His Serene Highness marries two other Wives whom he maintains with as little Trouble as the Sea. They are the Abbesses of the Convents of the _Virgin_ and St. _Daniel_. This Ceremony is perform'd upon St. _Philip_'s Day, when the Doge in a Galea.s.s accompany'd by the Amba.s.sadors and the Senate, repairs with a great Train to those Convents which are situate on the Sh.o.r.e behind the a.r.s.enal. The Prelate who officiates for the Day receives him at the Entrance of the Church, brings him the Holy Water, and conducts him to a Place prepared for him in the Choir where he a.s.sists at High Ma.s.s. Then he repairs to the Grate, in which there's a large Opening where the Lady Abbess appears with her Nuns. The Abbess addressing herself to the Doge intreats him to continue the Favour of his Protection to herself and the Nuns; to which the Doge returns answer, that she and all the Convent may depend upon his Good-Will. Then he turns about and walks on foot to the Convent of St. _Daniel_, where his Reception and Transaction are the same as at the Convent of the _Virgin_. These two Convents have very singular Privileges. The Abbesses have the Crosier-Staff, and both they and their Nuns depend solely upon the Doge, and not at all upon the Pope or the Court of _Rome_ either in Spirituals or Temporals. They have good Revenues and live as much as can be at their Ease. The Dress of these Nuns is rather gay than modest. Like the Nuns at _Strasbourg_ they wear their Hair in Tresses: Their Petticoats are so short that you may see their Ancles; and instead of Stays they wear Jackets with short Skirts, which are very becoming to those that are of a good Shape. Their Necks are quite bare, only when they go into the Choir they cover them with Veils of fine white Wool, which trail on the ground.

These Nuns are the Daughters of the n.o.bles, and enjoy great Liberty, more than I believe they have under their Father's Roof.

The Festival of St. _Mark_ is always celebrated with very great Solemnity.