The Great White Tribe in Filipinia Part 11

The ringing of a bell announced the c.o.c.k-fight in the main beneath the cocoanut-trees. It was near the market-place, where venders of betel-nut, tobacco, cigarettes, and _tuba_ squatted on the ground, their wares exposed for sale on mats. As the spectators crowded in, the gatekeeper would mark their bare feet with a red stamp, indicating that admission had been paid. On booths arranged within the last inclosure, _senoritas_ sold hot chocolate and raisin-cakes and beer. Tethered to little stakes, and straining at their leashes, the excited game-c.o.c.ks, the descendants of the jungle-fowl, screamed in exultant unison. The small boys, having climbed the cocoanut-palms, clung to the notches, and looked down upon the scene of conflict.

Little brown men, squatting around the birds, were critically hefting them, or matching couples of them in preliminary bouts, keeping a good hold of their tails. There was the wicked little Moro Bangcorong, the trainer of birds that never lost a fight. There was Manolo, the Visayan dandy, who on recent winnings in the main, supported a small stable of racing ponies at Cebu. The person entering a bird deposits a certain amount of money with the bank. This wager is then covered by the smaller bets of _hoi poiloi_. When a "dark" bird is victorious, and the crowd wins, an enthusiastic yell goes up. But just as in a public lottery, fortune is seldom with the great majority. As the bell rings, the spectators press close around the bamboo pit, or climb to points of vantage in adjacent scaffolding. A line is drawn in the damp earth, and on one side all the money wagered on the favorite is arranged, which must be balanced by the coin placed by opposing betters on the other side. There is a frantic rushing around at the last moment to place bets. The Chinaman waves a ten-_peso_ bill excitedly, and clamors "_buenting! buenting!_"--meaning that he puts his money on the speckled bird. Somebody on the other side cries out "_guingan!_" or "green," and thus they both find takers for their "_sapi_." Then the _presidente_, who referees the fight, sends two policemen to clear out the ring; the sheaths are removed from the razor-sharp steel spurs; the two c.o.c.ks are held opposite each other, and are simultaneously launched into the arena. Ruffling, and facing each other with their necks outstretched, "blood in their eyes," and realizing to the full extent the danger of the situation, they prepare to fight it out to death. A quick stab, and the victim, trembling violently, a stream of red blood trickling down its leg, drops at the first encounter, and the fight is over.

While no record has been kept of how the bets were placed, every one seems to remember, and the money is handed over honestly. If Filipinos were as honorable in all their dealings as they are in this, they would be ideal people to do business with; for although they will beg and borrow, or even steal, to get the money which is wagered at these "combats," they will never evade a debt of honor thus incurred. Regarding gambling as a livelihood, or a profession in good standing, they devote their best hours to the study and the mastery of it. They, with their false philosophy, believe that wealth is thus produced, and that there is a gain for every one.

The list of fights progresses, some of the c.o.c.ks only giving up the struggle after a last dying kick has been directed at the breast of the antagonist, who, desperately wounded, summons strength for one triumphant, but a rather husky, crow. Sometimes both birds are taken from the c.o.c.kpit dead. The bird that loses a fight through cowardice is rent limb from limb by the indignant owner, and is ignominiously hung upon the bamboo paling,--bird of ill omen, that has ruined the finances of a family, mortgaged the house and carabao, and plunged its owner into debt for the next year!

Sometimes a "free for all" is subst.i.tuted for the dual contest. Eighteen or twenty fighting-c.o.c.ks will be arranged in a large circle, dropped at the same time in the ring, and set to work. Half of the birds, not realizing what is going on, will innocently start to scratch for worms, or set out on a search for seeds. It is amusing then to see the astonished look they give when suddenly confronted by a couple of antagonists. They settle their disputes in bunches of three and four, and soon the ring is full of chickens running to get out of danger, maimed and crippled, or still innocently scratching after worms. There was a little white c.o.c.k at the recent main at Oroquieta, who avoided every fight without, however, leaving the arena. The game old buzzard that belonged to _Capitan_ A-Bey--a bird with legs like stilts and barren patches in his foliage--had put down every challenger in turn. Confronted by two birds at once, he seemed to say, "One side, old fellow, for a moment; will attend to your case later"--which he did. Dizzy and staggering from loss of blood, still "in the ring," he sidled up to the immaculate white bird that had so ingeniously evaded every fight. It was a case of out-and-out bluff. If the little bird had struck, he must have won. A single look, however, at his reprehensible antagonist sufficed. The little bird made a direct line for the gate, while _Capitan_ A-Bey's old rooster, with defiance in his look and voice, was carried away in triumph. In the parade next day, where the competing game-c.o.c.ks were exhibited, the "buzzard," though he was exempt from taking part in the proceedings, led the procession and was loudly cheered.

My introduction to polite society in Filipinia was certainly auspicious. "Betel-Nut Sal," the wife of the constabulary sergeant, had a birthday, and invited everybody to the dance and the reception which would take place in the jail. The _Senorita_ Tonio, most prominent of the receiving ladies, was engaged when I arrived, in meting out gin to the visitors. Her teeth were red from betel-chewing, and a cigarette hung from the corner of her mouth. The orchestra, armed with guitars and mandolins, had seated themselves upon a bench, barefooted with their legs crossed, ready to begin. The insufficiency of partners for the ladies had necessitated letting out most of the prisoners on parole. A certain young dandy who had been locked up on charge of murder, was the hero of the hour. While he was dancing, soldiers with their Remingtons guarded the door. I was induced to try a dance with Tonio. The hum of music could be heard above the "clack-clack" of the carpet-slippers tapping on the floor. Then suddenly the _senorita_ swore a white man's oath, and stopped. Her carpet-slipper had come off, and as she wore no hosiery, the situation was indeed embarra.s.sing. Our hostess asked us twenty times if everything was satisfactory, and finally confessed that she had spent almost a year's income for the refreshments. "Dancee now; _manana_, washie, washie."

I must tell you of Bernarda's party. "We expect you for the eating,"

read the invitation, and when dinner was all ready I was sent for. Then we sat down to a feast of roast pork, rice, and goat-flesh, with a rather soggy cake for the dessert. At most b.a.l.l.s it is customary for the ladies to be seated first at the refreshment-table, where the most substantial articles of diet are boiled ham with sugar frosting, cakes flavored with the native lime, and lemon soda. Like the coy nun in Chaucer's "Prologue," she who is most elegant will take care not to spill the food upon her lap, eat with the fingers, or spit out the bones. At wedding feasts the gentlemen are given preference at the table.

When the orchestra arrived--a trifle late after a six-mile hike through muddy roads and over swollen streams--the company was more delighted than a nursery. The orchestra began the program with the piece ent.i.tled "Just One Girl," to which the people sang Visayan words. Vivan, the old clown, in clumsy commissary shoes, skated around the floor to the amus.e.m.e.nt of the whole a.s.sembly. The chair-dance was announced, and the most favored _senorita_ occupied a chair set in the middle of the room. A dozen suitors came in order, bowing low, entreating her not to reject their plea. One after another they were thrown down, and retired crestfallen. But at last the right one came, and waltzed off with the girl triumphantly. There was a salvo of applause, the more intense because in this case an engagement had been practically announced. No native ball would be complete without the symbolistic dance which so epitomizes Filipino character. This is performed by a young lady and her partner wielding fans and scented handkerchiefs, advancing and retreating with all kinds of coquetries.

Long after midnight, when the party broke up with the customary horse-play, the accommodating orchestra, who had enjoyed the evening with the rest, still playing "Just One Girl," escorted the a.s.sembly home.

Chapter XVIII.

Visayan Ethics and Philosophy.

He is the drollest little person in the world--the Filipino of the southern isles. He imitates the sound of chickens in his language and the nasal "nga" of the carabao. He talks about his chickens and makes jokes about them. As he goes along the street, he sings, "_Ma-ayon buntag_," or "_Ma-ayon hapon_," to the friends he meets. This is his greeting in the morning and the afternoon; at night, "_Ma-ayon gabiti_." And instead of saying, "Thank you," he will sing, "_Deus mag bayud_" (G.o.d will reward you), and the answer, also sung, will be "_gehapon_" (always)--just as though it were no use to look for a reward upon this world.

You wonder how it is that he can spend his life rooted to one spot, like a tree, pa.s.sing the days in idleness. He is absorbed in his own thoughts. If you should ask him anything he would not hear you; he is far away in his own dreamland. You must wake him up first, and then repeat your question several times. If you should have instructions for him, do not give them to him all at once. A single idea at a time is all that he can carry in his head. If he has not been broken in to a routine, he will chase b.u.t.terflies upon the way, influenced ever by the pa.s.sion of the moment. There is no yesterday or no to-morrow in his thoughts. What he shall find to eat to-morrow never concerns him. Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof.

Many mistakes have been made in the hasty judgment of the Filipino character. Such axioms as "Never trust a native under any circ.u.mstances;" "Never expect to find a sense of grat.i.tude;"

"Never believe a word a native says," are only too well known in Filipinia. The Spanish influence has been responsible for most of the defects as well as for the merits of the native character. Then, the peculiar fashion of the Oriental mind forbids his reasoning according to the Occidental standards. Cause and effect are hazy terms to him, and the justification of the means is not regarded seriously. His thefts are in a way consistent with his system of philosophy. You are so rich, and he so poor. The Filipino is at heart a socialist. But he does not steal indiscriminately. If it is your money that he takes, it is because he needs it to put up on the next c.o.c.k-fight. If he selects your watch, it is because he needs a watch, and nothing more. The Filipino, when he transacts business, has two scales of prices,--one for the natives, and another for Americans. He reasons that because Americans are rich, they ought to pay a higher price for what they get than Filipinos do. He would expect if he bought anything from you that you would make a special rate for him regardless of the value of the article in question. You would have to come down to accommodate his pocketbook.

The Filipino code of ethics justifies a falsehood, especially if the end in view should be immediate. He lies to save himself from punishment, and he will make a c.u.mulative lie, building it up from his imagination until even the artistic element is wanting, and his lie becomes a thing of contradictions and absurdities. When questioned closely, or when cross-examined, his imagination gets beyond control, and it is possible that he believes, himself, the "fairy tales" he tells. Fear easily upsets his calculations, and he runs amuck. But he will not betray himself, although he will deny a friend three times. He may be in an agony of fear, but only by the subtlest changes could it be detected.

The Spaniards, when they left out grat.i.tude from his curriculum, made up for the deficiency by inculcating strict ideals of discipline. The Filipino never has had much to be grateful for, and he regards a friendly move suspiciously. But he admires a master, and will humbly yield to almost any kind of tyranny, especially from one of his own race. The poorer cla.s.ses rather like to be imposed upon in the same way as the Americans appreciate a humbug.

In their communities the _presidente_ is supreme in power; and, like the king, this officer can do no wrong. He uses his position for his private ends. Why not? What is the use of being _presidente_ if it does not profit you? I have known some who secured monopolies on the hemp-trade by fining all who did not sell their hemp to them. Others appropriate the public funds for entertainment purposes, and when an inquiry is made regarding the condition of the treasury, the magistrate expresses the greatest surprise on finding that there is no money left. This officer, however, whatever his prerogatives may be, is not ambitious that his term of office be of any benefit. If he presides well at the c.o.c.k-fights, it is all that is expected of him. If he goes to building bridges over rivers that the horses easily can wade across, the people will object to the unnecessary labor and expense. The _presidente_ dominates the town. If he can bring about prosperity in an agreeable way, without recourse to sudden means, the people will appreciate him and support him, though they do not take much interest in the elections. If the civil government can only get good _presidentes_ in the larger villages, the problem of administration will be solved.

Malay traditions make the Filipino proud, disdainful, and reserved--and also cruel. Not only are the ardent sun and his inherent laziness accountable for his antipathy to work. It is beneath his dignity to work, and that is why he takes delight in being a public servant or a clerk. The problem of living is reduced to simplest terms. One can not starve to death as long as the bananas and the cocoanuts hold out. The question as to whether last year's overcoat or straw hat can be made to do, does not concern the Filipino in the least. If he needs money irresistibly, he can spend one day at work up in the mountains, making enough to last him for some time. If he can spend his money so as to create a display, he takes delight in doing so. But paying debts is as uninteresting as it is unpopular. The outward signs of elegance are much respected by the Filipino. The American, to live up to his part, must always be attended by a servant. Sometimes, when we would forget this adjunct, we would stop at some _tienda_ and propose to carry home a dozen eggs wrapped in a handkerchief. "What! have you no house-boy?" the natives asked. Apparently extravagant, they practice many petty economies at home. A morsel of food or a bit of clothing never goes to waste in Filipinia. They imitate the Chinaman in letting one of their finger-nails grow long.

The Filipino is fastidious and dainty--in his own way. He will shudder at the uncouth Tagalog who toasts locusts over a hot fire and eats them, and that evening will go home and eat a handful of damp _guinimos_, the littlest of fish. He takes an infinite amount of care of his white clothes, and swaggers about the streets immaculate; but just as soon as he gets home, the suit comes off and is reserved for future exhibition purposes. The women pay comparatively small attention to their personal adornment. Their hair is combed straight back upon their heads. The style of dresses never undergoes a change. The ordinary dress consists of three important pieces--the chemise, a long, white, sleeveless garment; the _camisa_, or the _pina_ bodice, with wide sleeves; and the skirt, caught up on one side, and preferably of red material. A yoke or scarf of _pina_ folds around the neck, and is considered indispensable by _senoritas_. The native ideas of modesty are more or less false, varying with the individual.

It might be thought that, on account of his indifferent att.i.tude toward life and death, the Filipino has no feelings or emotions. He is a stoic and a fatalist by nature, but an emotionalist as well. While easily affected, the impressions are not deep, and are forgotten as they slip into the past. Although controlled by pa.s.sion, he will hold himself in, maintaining a proud reserve, especially in the presence of Americans. A subtle change of color, a sullen brooding, or persistent silence, are his only outward signs of wrath. He will endure in patience what another race had long ago protested at; but when at last aroused and dominated by his pa.s.sions, he will throw reserve and caution to the winds, and give way to his feelings like a child; and like a child, he feels offended if partiality is exercised against him. His sense of justice then a.s.serts itself, and he resents not getting his share of anything. He even will insist on being punished if he thinks punishment is due him. While revengeful if imposed upon, and bitter under the autocracy of cruelty, he has a great respect for firmness. And the Americans would do well to remember that in governing the Filipino, kindness should be mingled with strict discipline.

The Filipino can not be depended upon for accurate, reliable information. His information is indefinite, as perhaps it should be in the land of By and By. In spite of his imaginative temperament, his cruelty to animals is flagrant. He starves his dog and rides his pony till the creature's back is sore. He shows no mercy for the bird that loses at the c.o.c.k-fight; he will mercilessly tear it limb from limb. In order to explain--not to excuse--this cruelty, we must again regard the Filipino as a child--a child of the toad-stabbing age.

A little learning he takes seriously, and is puffed up by pride when he can follow with his h.o.r.n.y finger the religious column in _Ang Suga_, spelling the long words out laboriously. Even the boys and girls who study English, often do so only to be "smart." It is a clever thing to spice one's conversation with an English word or expression here and there.

Yet the Filipino is not altogether lazy and unsympathetic. Often around his houses you will see a tiny patch of corn or a little garden of green vegetables. He makes a mistake by showing a dislike for the _camote_, or the native sweet-potato, which abounds there. Preferring the unsubstantial rice to this more wholesome product, he leaves the sweet-potato for his Chinese and his Moro neighbors. On every street the sour-smelling _copra_ (cocoanut meat) can be seen spread out upon a mat to dry. The cattle are fed on the long rice-gra.s.s (the _palay_), or on the unhusked rice (_sacate_). A primitive trades-unionism exists among the Filipinos; every trade, such as the carpenters' or the musicians', having its respective _maestro_, with whom arrangements for the labor and the pay are always made. The native jewelers are very clever, fashioning the silver _pesos_ into ornaments for bolos, hats, or walking-sticks. Ironmongeries, though primitive in their equipment, have produced, by dint of skill and patience, work that is very pa.s.sable. The women weave their own cloth on the native looms, and practice various other industries. The children are well trained in hospitality and public manners, which they learn by rote.

While not original, they are good imitators, and would make excellent clerks, mechanics, carpenters, or draughtsmen. Some of their devices rather remind one of a small boy's remedy for warts or "side-ache." In order to exterminate the rats they introduce young pythons into the garrets of their houses, where the snake remains until his appet.i.te is satisfied for rodents and his finer tastes developed. Usually the Filipino does things "wrong side out." Instead of beckoning when he would summon any one, he motions away from himself. Instead of making nicknames, such as Bob or Bill, from the first syllable, he uses the last, abbreviating Balendoy to 'Doy, Diega to a simple 'Ga. They are the happiest people in the world, free from all care and trouble. It is among the younger generation that the promise lies. The little ones are bright and gentle and respectful--quite unlike the boisterous denizens of Young America. The race is still back in the fourteenth century, but the progress to be made within the next few years will span the chasm at a single bound.

When I return to Filipinia, I shall expect to see, instead of the brown _nipa_ shacks, bright-painted American cottages or bungalows among the groves of palm. I shall expect to see the mountain slopes, waving with green hemp-fields, worked by the rejuvenated native. Railroads will penetrate into the dark interior, connecting towns and villages now isolated. The country roads will be well graded and macadamized, and bridges will be built across the streams. The c.o.c.k-fight will have given way to inst.i.tutions more American, and superst.i.tion will have vanished with the mediaevalism. The hum of saw-mills will be heard upon the borders of the timber-lands; sugar refineries will be established near the fields of cane; for Filipinia is still an undeveloped paradise. The Great White Tribe has many problems yet to solve; but with the industry that they have shown in other lands, they can improve, not only the material resources, but can stir the Filipino from his dream of the Dark Ages, and point out the way of modern progress and enlightenment.

NOTE

[1] Johnson, the runaway constabulary officer, was killed October last by the crew of the native boat which he had captured after the Steamship "Victoria," which he had seized, had grounded off the coast of Negros. Four of the crew were killed during the fight. In true brigand style he had taken the boat at the revolver's point, and headed for the coast of Borneo. He had ten thousand dollars of government money, and his intention was to land at various ports and make the local merchants "stand and deliver." I gave the following interview to the reporter of the Princeton (Indiana) "Clarion-News,"

October 16, 1903:

"'Johnson, the pirate,' is dead, and buried in the lonely isle of Negros. Many a worse man occupies a better grave. The worst that you can say of Johnson is, that he was wrong and that he liked to drink too much.

"I shall always remember him in his red shoulder straps, his khaki riding suit and leather leggings. Before I had ever seen him I had heard the old constabulary captain say: 'That feller looks like a born fighter. Bet he ain't afraid of anything.' ... The padre gave us a Christmas dinner, and Johnson at this function took too much of the communion wine. On the way back he reeled continually in his saddle, vomiting a stream of red wine....

"We often used to race our ponies into Oroquieta neck and neck, scattering natives, chickens, and pigs to right and left. The last I saw of him was as he put out on a stormy sea in a frail Moro sailboat bound for Cagayan, which at that time was infested with ladrones.

"Johnson was only a boy, but he had been a sailor and a soldier, and had seen adventures in the Canary Islands, in Cuba, and the Philippines. The boat that he held up and started off to Borneo was one employed in questionable trade. She was a smuggler, and had formerly been in the service of the 'Insurrecto' Government. She used to drop in at a port at night and pull out in the morning with neither a bill of lading nor a manifest.

"Johnson should not be blamed too much for the wild escapade. The climate had undoubtedly affected him; moreover the constabulary has no business putting heavy responsibilities upon young boys."