The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics Part 15

caustic soda lye at 70 Tw. The blue may also be developed by steaming with air in a suitable chest or steaming chamber. By topping with 1/4 lb. New methylene blue N, very bright blue shades can be dyed.

_Dark Navy._--Prepare the dye-bath with 25 lb. Immedial blue C, 24 lb.

sulphide of sodium, 35 lb. common salt and 12 lb. caustic soda lye, working at the boil for one hour, then rinse and develop in a bath made from 2-1/2 lb. peroxide of sodium and 2-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid, started cold, then after twenty minutes heated to 160 F., twenty minutes longer at that heat will be sufficient. For second and subsequent lots of cotton there is added to the old bath 15 lb. Immedial blue C, 4 lb.

sulphide of sodium, 5 lb. salt and 2 lb. caustic soda lye of 70 Tw.

_Blue._--A pale but not very bright shade of blue is dyed in a bath of 3 lb. Amidazol black 6 G, 5 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt. After working for one hour at the boil, lift, rinse and pa.s.s into a bath which contains 2-1/2 lb. peroxide of sodium and 2-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid; this is started cold, then heated to 150 F., and kept at that heat for twenty minutes, when the cotton is taken out, well washed and dried.

_Deep Blue._--Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol black 6 G, 5 lb. soda and 200 lb.

salt; develop with 2 lb. peroxide of sodium and 2-1/2 lb. sulphuric acid, working as noted above.

_Dark Drab._--Prepare the dye-bath with 20 lb. Cross-dye drab, 5 lb.

soda crystals and 80 lb. salt, work at the boil for an hour, then lift, wash well and dry; this can be chromed if desired.

_Brown._--Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol cutch, 5 lb. soda ash and 150 lb.

salt, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash thoroughly and dry. By after treatment in a bath of 3 lb. pota.s.sium bichromate and 3 lb. sulphuric acid the colour is made fast to washing. The shade is not altered.

_Buff._--Dye with 2-1/2 lb. Amidazol cutch, 5 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry.

_Pale Sea Green._--Dye with 4 lb. Amidazol green Y, 5 lb. soda and 25 lb. salt, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash well and dry.

_Dark Green._--Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol green B, 5 lb. soda and 20 lb.

salt; work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash thoroughly and dry.

_Dark Brown._--Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol cachou, 5 lb. soda and 200 lb.

salt, working for an hour at the boil, then lift, rinse well and pa.s.s into a chrome bath of 4 lb. pota.s.sium bichromate and 3 lb. sulphuric acid at 50 F. for half an hour, then wash well and dry.

_Dark Sage._--Dye with 20 lb. Amidazol drab, 5 lb. soda ash and 150 lb.

salt for an hour at the boil, then lift and chrome with 4 lb. pota.s.sium bichromate and 8 lb. sulphuric acid for thirty minutes at 150 F., washing well afterwards.

All the Amidazol dyes are very fast to washing, acids, etc. They can be treated with sulphate of copper or peroxide of sodium when they produce good shades. They may even be diazotised and developed with beta-naphthol and phenylene diamine. The pale tints got by using from 2 to 4 per cent. of dye-stuff are useful ones, as also are the medium shades with 10 per cent. of dye-stuff.

_Brown._--Prepare the dye-bath with 10 lb. Sulfaniline brown 4 B, 50 lb.

salt, 10 lb. soda and 5 lb sulphide of sodium; work at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and treat in a fresh bath with 3 lb. pota.s.sium bichromate and 2 lb. acetic acid at 160 F. for half an hour, then wash well and dry.

_Olive._--Dye with 10 lb. Katigen olive G, 50 lb. salt, 10 lb. soda and 6 lb. sulphide of sodium; work for one hour at the boil, then lift, wash and treat in a fresh bath with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb.

sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid for half an hour at the boil, then wash.

_Dark Olive._--Dye with 20 lb. Katigen olive G, 50 lb. salt, 10 lb.

soda, and 6 lb. sulphide of sodium, working at the boil for one hour, then lift, wash and dry. By chroming a darker and faster olive is got.

_Brown._--Dye with 20 lb. Katigen dark brown, 50 lb. salt, 10 lb. soda and 6 lb. sulphide of sodium at the boil for one hour, then treat in a fresh bath with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb. sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid for half an hour at the boil, then wash well.

_Pale Brown._--Dye with 8 lb. Immedial bronze A, 2 lb. soda, 2 lb.

sulphide of sodium and 10 lb. Glauber's salt at the boil for one hour, then lift, rinse and pa.s.s into a fresh bath containing 1 lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. acetic-acid at 150 F. for half an hour, then lift, wash and dry.

_Dark Brown._--Dye with 12 lb. Immedial brown B, 5 lb. sulphide of sodium, 5 lb. soda and 20 lb. salt at the boil for one hour, then lift and treat in a fresh bath with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb.

sulphate of copper and 2 lb. acetic acid.

The Immedial blacks, blue, bronze and brown dye very fast shades, standing soaping, acids and light. They may be combined together to produce a great range of shades of blue, brown, green, grey, etc.

These examples will perhaps suffice to show how this new but important cla.s.s of sulphyl colours are applied to the dyeing of cotton. They may be topped with aniline black, indigo, basic dyes, or combined with such direct dyes as produce shades fast to chroming to form a very great range of shades which have the merit of fastness.

(3) DIRECT DYEING FOLLOWED BY FIXATION WITH DEVELOPERS.

A large number of the dyes prepared from coal tar are called azo colours, such for instance are the Biebrich and Croceine scarlets and oranges, Naphthol black, Congo red, etc., just to name a few. The preparation of these is about the simplest operation of colour chemistry, and consists in taking as the base an amido compound as the chemist calls such. These amido compounds, of which aniline, toluidine, benzidine, naphthylamine are familiar examples, are characterised by containing the molecular group NH{2}, which radicle is built up of the two elements nitrogen and hydrogen. All compounds which contain this group are basic in character and combine with acids to form well-defined salts. When these amido bodies are treated with sodium nitrite and hydrochloric acid they undergo a chemical change, the feature of which is that the nitrogen atoms present in the amido compound and in the nitrite unite together and a new compound is produced which is called a diazo compound, and the operation is called "diazotisation".

For example when paranitroaniline is subjected to this reaction it undergoes a change indicated in the chemical equation:--

C{6}H{4}NO{2}NH{2}, + NaNO{2}, + 2HCl = Paranitroaniline, Sodium nitrite, Hydrochloric acid.

C{6}H{4}NO{2}N: NCl + NaCl + 2H{2}0 = Paranitro benzene Sodium chloride, Water, diazo chloride.

The above, put into words, means that when paranitroaniline is dissolved with hydrochloric acid and treated with nitrite of soda it forms diazonitro benzene chloride, sodium chloride and water. Now the diazo compounds are rather unstable bodies, but they have a great affinity for other compounds, such as naphthol, phenylene diamine, phenol, and combine easily with them when brought into contact with them. The new compounds thus made form the dye-stuffs of commerce.

The azo dyes contain the characteristic group of two nitrogen atoms shown in the formula N: N. In dealing with the production of colours direct on the fibre this subject will be elaborated more fully.

Now many of the direct dyes, Diamine blacks, Diamine cutch, Primuline, Diazo brown, Zambesi blues, browns, etc., contain amido groups, by reason of having been made from such bodies as phenylene diamine, amido naphthol, toluidine, etc., and it has been found that when dyed on the fibre they are capable of being diazotised by pa.s.sing the dyed fibre into a bath of sodium nitrite acidified with hydrochloric acid, and if then they are placed into a bath containing such a body as beta-naphthol, phenylene diamine, etc., new compounds or dyes are produced, which are characterised by being insoluble in water, and therefore as formed on the fibre in the manner indicated are very fast to washing, soaping and similar agencies.

Often the new or developed dye formed on the fibre differs markedly in colour from the original dye. Perhaps in no case is this more strongly shown than with Primuline. The original colour is a greenish yellow, but by using various developers, as they are called, a great variety of shade can be got, as shown in this table.

_Developer._ _Colour produced._

Beta-naphthol Bright scarlet.

Alpha-naphthol Crimson.

Phenylene diamine Brown.

Phenol Gold yellow.

Resorcine Orange.

Naphthylamine ether Blue.

Blue developer A N Green.

As regards the dyeing operation, it no way differs from that described for simple direct colours. It should, however, be noted that if good results are required full shades must be dyed. The cotton must be rinsed in cold water, and be quite cold before it is subjected to the diazotising operation. _Diazotising_ is a simple operation, yet it must be carried out with care if good results are desired. It consists essentially in the use of an acidulated bath of sodium nitrite.

To make the bath for diazotising there is taken (for each 100 lb. of goods) sufficient water to handle them in comfortably, 8 lb. of sodium nitrite and 6 lb. hydrochloric acid. This bath must be quite cold otherwise it does not work well. The goods are handled in this for from fifteen to twenty minutes, when they are ready for the next operation.

The bath is not exhausted of nitrite, etc., hence it can be kept standing, and for each succeeding lot of cotton it is strengthened up by adding one-third of the quant.i.ties of nitrite and acid originally used.

Of course the bath cannot be kept for ever, sooner or later it will get dirty, and then it must be thrown away and a new bath be made up.

The diazo compounds formed on the fibre are not very stable bodies. They decompose on being exposed for any great length of time to the air, while light has a strong action on most, if not all of them; hence it follows that the diazotising process should not be carried out in a room where direct, strong sunlight can enter or fall upon the goods. Then again, after diazotising, the treated goods should not be allowed to lie about exposed to air and light, but the operation of developing should be proceeded with at once, otherwise the diazo body will decompose, and weak and defective colours are liable to be obtained on subsequent development.

For _developing_, quite a large number of substances are used. Some of these are regular articles of commerce, others are the special productions of certain firms, who advise their use with the dyes that they also manufacture. These latter are sent out under such designations as Developer B, Developer A N, or Fast-blue developer. Those most in use are beta-naphthol for red from Primuline, and for bluish blacks from Diamine blacks, Diazo blacks, Zambesi blacks, etc.; for dark blues from Diamine blues, Diazo blues, etc.; for greys from Diamine blues, Neutral grey, etc. Alpha-naphthol for dark reds from Primuline, greys from Diamine blues, Neutral grey, etc. Phenylene diamine for blacks from Diamine blacks, Diazo blacks, Zambesi blacks, Triamine blacks, etc.; for dark browns from Diamine browns, Diazo browns, etc.; for light browns from Cotton browns, Diamine cutch, Primuline, etc. Naphthylamine ether for blues from Diamine blacks, etc. Phenol for claret from Diamine cutch, and for gold yellow from Primuline, etc. Resorcine for orange from Primuline, etc. Soda for browns from Diamine cutch, Diazo browns, Zambesi browns, for orange from Diamine orange, and yellow from Primuline.

=Beta-naphthol.=--This is by far the most important of the developers.

It is a white body, insoluble in water, but readily soluble in soda lye, and a solution is easily made by taking 10 lb. beta-naphthol and heating it with 10 lb. caustic soda lye of 70 Tw. and 60 gallons of water. This bath may be used as the developing bath, or it may be diluted with more water. It is not desirable to use any more caustic soda than is necessary to dissolve the beta-naphthol, so that the bath is not too alkaline. To produce full shades it usually takes 1 per cent. of the weight of the cotton of the beta-naphthol, but it is best to use the bath as a continuous one and for the first lot of cotton use 2 per cent.

of naphthol, while for each succeeding lot only 1 per cent. more naphthol need be added to the same bath.

This bath is alkaline, while the diazotising bath is acid, unless, therefore, the cotton be well washed when it is taken from the latter bath there is a risk of the alkali of the one being neutralised by the acidity of the other, and the naphthol being thrown out in an insoluble form. This, of course, is easily remedied should it occur.

Developer A (Bayer) is a mixture of beta-naphthol and caustic soda in the powder form, so that a solution is obtained by simply adding water.