The Dumpling_ A Seasonal Guide Part 2

Setting up the steamer plate: Place a steamer rack in a large wide pot and fill the pot with enough water to reach just below the rungs. Find a small heatproof plate or a wide bowl large enough to hold the dumplings but small enough to fit in the pot and place it on top of the rack. Bring the water in the pot to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Place the dumplings on the plate or in the bowl, cover, and simmer until the dumplings are heated through. Place a steamer rack in a large wide pot and fill the pot with enough water to reach just below the rungs. Find a small heatproof plate or a wide bowl large enough to hold the dumplings but small enough to fit in the pot and place it on top of the rack. Bring the water in the pot to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Place the dumplings on the plate or in the bowl, cover, and simmer until the dumplings are heated through.

HAND-WILTING: Hand-wilting greens, herbs, and sliced or diced onion keeps their flavors ultra-fresh, and softens them considerably without adding extra water or oil, an important consideration when making dumpling fillings. Rinse the greens (or other similar ingredient), shake off excess water, place them in a bowl, and simply crumple, scrunch, and squeeze with your hand until the greens are soft and limp. Drain or squeeze off any excess liquid. Hand-wilted onions have a surprisingly diminished raw flavor and are soft, silky, and just right for fillings. Hand-wilting greens, herbs, and sliced or diced onion keeps their flavors ultra-fresh, and softens them considerably without adding extra water or oil, an important consideration when making dumpling fillings. Rinse the greens (or other similar ingredient), shake off excess water, place them in a bowl, and simply crumple, scrunch, and squeeze with your hand until the greens are soft and limp. Drain or squeeze off any excess liquid. Hand-wilted onions have a surprisingly diminished raw flavor and are soft, silky, and just right for fillings.Dumpling Fold Instructions and Ill.u.s.trationsWe realize that for many people the process of folding or wrapping dumplings by hand can be unfamiliar or even a little daunting. The following ill.u.s.trations, complete with step-by-step instructions, will take you through each of the folds in the book. With practice, you'll master even the most complicated folds with confidence and ease.

JELLY-ROLL SHAPE.

DIAMOND IN THE SQUARE FOLD.

PUDDING BASIN SETUP.

FAN-KNOT FOLD.

BOWL FOLD.

PLEATED HALF-MOON FOLD.

HALF-MOON FOLD.

STANDING HALF-MOON FOLD.

BELLY-b.u.t.tON FOLD.

BOTTLENECK FOLD.

CANDY-WRAPPER SHAPE USING A CLOTH.

PINCHED-TOP FOLD.

SINGLE-HUSK TAMALE FOLD.

LOTUS-LEAF FOLD.

TWO-HUSK TAMALE FOLD 1 ( 1 (WIDE).

ENVELOPE FOLD.

CANDY-WRAPPER SHAPE USING A LEAF.

PUDDING BAG FOLD.

TWO-HUSK TAMALE FOLD 2 ( 2 (LONG).

CURLED-LETTER FOLD.

BAMBOO-LEAF FOLD.

JELLY-ROLL SHAPE.

The Jelly-Roll Shape is often used for pastries and baked goods (cinnamon rolls, rugelach, pinwheel cookies), but it is also used with both savory and sweet dumplings. Rolling up your dumpling into a jelly roll not only ensures that the filling is evenly distributed but also guarantees that each slice of the dumpling will have an attractive pinwheel swirl.

1. Arrange the filling on top of the dough rectangle, leaving a narrow border along all sides. Arrange the filling on top of the dough rectangle, leaving a narrow border along all sides.2. Starting on one of the longer sides, begin to roll up the dough, pinching the ends to seal as you go. Starting on one of the longer sides, begin to roll up the dough, pinching the ends to seal as you go.3. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal. Pinch and press the far edge of the dough along the length of the log to seal.DIAMOND IN THE SQUARE FOLD.

The Diamond in the Square Fold is a simple package fold that has the advantage of having a double layer of leaves for a more secure hold. This fold can also be used instead of the Envelope Fold when dealing with leaves that are brittle or torn.

1. Lay flat the larger banana-leaf square, smooth side up (or parchment paper), and place the smaller banana-leaf square, smooth side up, diagonally on top of the first square. Lay flat the larger banana-leaf square, smooth side up (or parchment paper), and place the smaller banana-leaf square, smooth side up, diagonally on top of the first square.2. Center and arrange the ca.s.sava and filling or rice and filling on top of the stacked leaves. Center and arrange the ca.s.sava and filling or rice and filling on top of the stacked leaves.3. Fold over one corner of the stacked leaves. Fold over one corner of the stacked leaves.4. Fold over the opposite corner. Fold over the opposite corner.5. Fold the ends of the leaves over as firmly as you can to create a neat, rectangular package. Fold the ends of the leaves over as firmly as you can to create a neat, rectangular package.6. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaves from unfolding. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaves from unfolding.PUDDING BASIN SETUP.

You can make a great variety of steamed puddings flawlessly using this traditional technique. This setup is used for all the steamed puddings in this book and, in fact, is a wonderful way to steam pretty much any batter or quick bread. By cooking your pudding in a basin, you reap all the benefits of wet-heat cooking (a moist, soft texture) while still creating a light crust, as if the pudding were oven-baked.

1. Make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar (and line the bottom of the basin with topping if called for). Make sure the interior of the basin is dry before rubbing it with b.u.t.ter and coating it with sugar (and line the bottom of the basin with topping if called for).2. Scoop the batter into the basin and give it a gentle shake to level it off. (If making a pudding with layers, arrange the layers within the basin without packing them down.) Scoop the batter into the basin and give it a gentle shake to level it off. (If making a pudding with layers, arrange the layers within the basin without packing them down.)3. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter. Cut out a round of parchment paper and place it on top of the batter.4. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with string. Cover the basin with the damp muslin and secure it tightly with string.5. Tie opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding. Tie opposite corners of the muslin into handles over the top of the pudding.FAN-KNOT FOLD.

This simple yet effective fold maximizes the way steam circulates around the dumpling, allowing it to cook faster and more evenly. All you have to do is stack up a few strips of dough, tie them into a knot, and fan out the edges. Truly, if you can tie a knot, you can master this fold.

1. Stack four dough strips on top of each other. The strips don't need to line up perfectly. Stack four dough strips on top of each other. The strips don't need to line up perfectly.2. Bend the dough strips into a loop. Bend the dough strips into a loop.3. Push one end of the stacked strips through the loop, creating a simple knot. Push one end of the stacked strips through the loop, creating a simple knot.4. Tuck in any loose ends and gently fan out or nudge apart the strips of dough, making the layers more apparent. Tuck in any loose ends and gently fan out or nudge apart the strips of dough, making the layers more apparent.BOWL FOLD.

The Bowl Fold, the best way to center a portion of filling in a soft ball of dough, is better suited for dumplings that contain a chunky or crumbly filling. By forming the dough into a small bowl and then cupping it in your hand, you can easily scoop in the filling without its spilling over the sides. Closing the bowl may take some practice, but it is a skill that you can apply to a good number of dumplings.

1. Use your thumbs to shape the dough ball into a bowl just large enough to cradle the filling. Use your thumbs to shape the dough ball into a bowl just large enough to cradle the filling.The shaped dough bowl2. Place the filling in the dough bowl. This step can be made easier by cradling the dough bowl in your palm while spooning in the filling. Place the filling in the dough bowl. This step can be made easier by cradling the dough bowl in your palm while spooning in the filling.3. Close by pushing and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pushing out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Close by pushing and pinching the edges of the dough around and over the filling until the filling is surrounded, pushing out any air. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.4. Reroll into a ball. Reroll into a ball.PLEATED HALF-MOON FOLD.

This fold resembles the Standing Half-Moon Fold, but by pleating one side of the dough round you end up with a more elaborate appearance.

1. Pick up the dough round and begin to pleat and pinch one side. Pick up the dough round and begin to pleat and pinch one side.2. Pull the round into a bowl shape. Pull the round into a bowl shape.3. Place the filling in the dough bowl. This step can be made easier by cradling the dough bowl in your palm while spooning in the filling. Place the filling in the dough bowl. This step can be made easier by cradling the dough bowl in your palm while spooning in the filling.4. Bring together the edges, pushing out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Bring together the edges, pushing out any air, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.The finished dumplingHALF-MOON FOLD.

There is no quicker or easier fold than the Half-Moon Fold, which is essentially a dough round folded in half over a mound of filling (or a dough square folded in half into a triangle). It's a great go-to fold for most filled dumplings if a traditional fold is too involved or time consuming.

1. Center the filling on top of the dough round. Center the filling on top of the dough round.2. Fold the round neatly in half, pushing out any air. Fold the round neatly in half, pushing out any air.3. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.STANDING HALF-MOON FOLD.

The Standing Half-Moon Fold, which is a slight variation of the Half-Moon Fold, is used for dumplings that need to sit upright in a steamer or a pan.

1. Center the filling on top of the dough round. Center the filling on top of the dough round.2. Fold the round neatly in half, pushing out any air. Fold the round neatly in half, pushing out any air.3. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.4. Holding the dumpling by the seam, tap the filled base on your work surface until it has a flat bottom and can sit upright without tipping over. Holding the dumpling by the seam, tap the filled base on your work surface until it has a flat bottom and can sit upright without tipping over.The finished dumplingBELLY-b.u.t.tON FOLD.

The Belly-b.u.t.ton Fold is simply a variation on the Half-Moon Fold. By pulling together the ends of the half-moon below the base of the dumpling, you create a natural curl-a belly b.u.t.ton-which squeezes the filling into a tight pocket, giving each dumpling a firmer, denser bite than simply pinching the two ends together over the dumpling.

1. Center the filling on top of the dough round or square. Center the filling on top of the dough round or square.2. Fold the round neatly in half, pushing out any air. (If using a dough square, fold it diagonally, over the filling, into a triangle.) Fold the round neatly in half, pushing out any air. (If using a dough square, fold it diagonally, over the filling, into a triangle.)3. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Pinch to seal. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.4. Join and seal the two ends together below the base of the dumpling. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Join and seal the two ends together below the base of the dumpling. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal.The finished dumplingBOTTLENECK FOLD.

The open pleats created by the Bottleneck Fold result in an especially pretty dumpling. The thinner you can roll out the dough, the more dramatic this effect. Creating the bottleneck is relatively easy, and you can make the opening as narrow or as wide as you like.

1. Center the filling on top of the dough round or square. Center the filling on top of the dough round or square.2. Gather up the sides of the round, creating a pouch around the filling, leaving an open neck in the center of the gathered dough. Gather up the sides of the round, creating a pouch around the filling, leaving an open neck in the center of the gathered dough.3. Pinch together, without closing the neck, the creases and pleats that formed naturally while the dough was gathered up. This gives the dumpling a loose and frilly top. Pinch together, without closing the neck, the creases and pleats that formed naturally while the dough was gathered up. This gives the dumpling a loose and frilly top.4. Gently squeeze the body of the dumpling until the filling pushes up a little through the neck. Holding the dumpling by the neck, tap the filled base on your work surface until it has a flat bottom and can sit upright without tipping over. Gently squeeze the body of the dumpling until the filling pushes up a little through the neck. Holding the dumpling by the neck, tap the filled base on your work surface until it has a flat bottom and can sit upright without tipping over.CANDY-WRAPPER SHAPE USING A CLOTH.

Wrapping dumplings with a cloth in the Candy-Wrapper Shape is the surest way to cook a dumpling that is in the shape of a loaf or a log.

1. Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides. Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides.2. Arrange the dough log along one edge of the muslin. Arrange the dough log along one edge of the muslin.3. Roll up the dumpling. The muslin should be slightly baggy so the dumpling can swell while it cooks. Roll up the dumpling. The muslin should be slightly baggy so the dumpling can swell while it cooks.The rolled-up dumpling4. Tightly tie the two open ends, then tie the body of the dumpling to secure the seam. Tightly tie the two open ends, then tie the body of the dumpling to secure the seam.PINCHED-TOP FOLD.

The Pinched-Top Fold creates the look of a casually pleated top but is actually made by gathering and pinching up opposite sides of the dough round together to enclose the filling.

1. Center the filling on top of the dough round. Center the filling on top of the dough round.2. Gather up and pinch together the opposite sides of the round, creating a snug tent around the filling. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal. Gather up and pinch together the opposite sides of the round, creating a snug tent around the filling. Dab a little water along the edges, if needed, for a better seal.3. Gather and pinch together the remaining two sides to enclose the filling, pushing out any air. Gather and pinch together the remaining two sides to enclose the filling, pushing out any air.4. Pinch any gaps to seal, and twist off the nub of dough that tends to form at the top of the dumpling. Pinch any gaps to seal, and twist off the nub of dough that tends to form at the top of the dumpling.SINGLE-HUSK TAMALE FOLD.

The Single-Husk Tamale Fold shapes tamales into compact rectangular packages. Dried corn husks are often quite large and can easily wrap around big spoonfuls of batter and filling. If your husks are smaller or torn, however, you can overlap two husks and still complete the fold.

1. Lay flat one corn husk, smooth side up. Center the batter on top of the husk and spread it out toward the right side until you have a rectangle about 4 2 inches. Lay flat one corn husk, smooth side up. Center the batter on top of the husk and spread it out toward the right side until you have a rectangle about 4 2 inches.2. Arrange the filling on top of the left half of the batter, leaving the right half without any filling. Arrange the filling on top of the left half of the batter, leaving the right half without any filling.3. Fold the right side over, sandwiching the filling inside the batter. Fold the right side over, sandwiching the filling inside the batter.4. Fold over the left side. Fold over the left side.5. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package. Fold the ends of the husk over as firmly as you can to create a neat rectangular package.6. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husk from unfolding.LOTUS-LEAF FOLD.

The Lotus-Leaf Fold is ideal for large dumplings that are stuffed with rice and other chunky ingredients. The lotus plant has large leaves that are round or spade shaped. These leaves are dried and typically folded for sale in markets.

1. Lay flat two lotus-leaf halves (or two banana-leaf rectangles), smooth side up. Center and arrange the rice and filling on top of one leaf half. Lay flat two lotus-leaf halves (or two banana-leaf rectangles), smooth side up. Center and arrange the rice and filling on top of one leaf half.2. Fold over one side. Fold over one side.3. Fold over the opposite side. Fold over the opposite side.4. Fold over the ends of the leaf as tightly as you can to create a neat package. (If using banana leaves, know that they can be brittle and do your best to wrap the package as snuggly as you can.) Fold over the ends of the leaf as tightly as you can to create a neat package. (If using banana leaves, know that they can be brittle and do your best to wrap the package as snuggly as you can.)5. Place the package, folded side down, on the second leaf half (or banana-leaf rectangle). Wrap the package up in the second leaf half, using the same folds in steps 2 through 4. Keep the packages folded side down to prevent the leaves from unfolding. (If using banana-leaf rectangles, wrap and tie package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaves from unfolding.) Place the package, folded side down, on the second leaf half (or banana-leaf rectangle). Wrap the package up in the second leaf half, using the same folds in steps 2 through 4. Keep the packages folded side down to prevent the leaves from unfolding. (If using banana-leaf rectangles, wrap and tie package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaves from unfolding.)TWO-HUSK TAMALE FOLD 1 (WIDE).

The Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide) is a common tamale fold. By overlapping the sides of two corn husks-fresh or dried-you create a wider surface area to hold the amount of batter and filling needed for an average-sized tamale.

1. Arrange two corn husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with the widest ends positioned on opposite sides. Overlap the husks by about 1 inches. Arrange two corn husks, smooth side up, next to each other lengthwise with the widest ends positioned on opposite sides. Overlap the husks by about 1 inches.2. Center the dough or batter (and filling, if called for) on top of the overlapping husks. Center the dough or batter (and filling, if called for) on top of the overlapping husks.3. Fold over one side. Fold over one side.4. Fold over the opposite side. Fold over the opposite side.5. Fold the ends of the overlapping husks over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Fold the ends of the overlapping husks over as tightly as you can to create a neat package.6. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husks from unfolding. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the husks from unfolding.ENVELOPE FOLD.

The Envelope Fold is your basic rectangular leaf fold that is used in making a number of dumplings. If your banana leaves are cracked or torn, wrap your dumplings using the Diamond in the Square Fold (DIAMOND IN THE SQUARE FOLD) instead for a more secure hold.

1. Lay flat one banana-leaf square, smooth side up. Center the dough or batter (and filling, if called for) on top of the leaf. Lay flat one banana-leaf square, smooth side up. Center the dough or batter (and filling, if called for) on top of the leaf.2. Fold over one side. Fold over one side.3. Fold over the opposite side. Fold over the opposite side.4. Fold the ends of the leaf over as tightly as you can to create a neat package. Fold the ends of the leaf over as tightly as you can to create a neat package.5. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaf from unfolding. Tie the package in a crisscross pattern to prevent the leaf from unfolding.CANDY-WRAPPER SHAPE USING A LEAF.

The Brazo de la Reina Brazo de la Reina (June) is the only dumpling that's wrapped in the Candy-Wrapper Shape Using a Leaf. This process is similar to the Candy-Wrapper Shape Using a Cloth, only instead of a cloth, here we use a large banana-leaf rectangle. (June) is the only dumpling that's wrapped in the Candy-Wrapper Shape Using a Leaf. This process is similar to the Candy-Wrapper Shape Using a Cloth, only instead of a cloth, here we use a large banana-leaf rectangle.

1. Lay flat the banana-leaf rectangle, smooth side up. Arrange the batter and filling on one of the longer edges of the leaf, leaving a 1-inch border in the front and a 2-inch border on each side. Lay flat the banana-leaf rectangle, smooth side up. Arrange the batter and filling on one of the longer edges of the leaf, leaving a 1-inch border in the front and a 2-inch border on each side.2. Roll up the dumpling, doing your best not to tear the leaf. Roll up the dumpling, doing your best not to tear the leaf.The rolled-up dumpling3. Tightly tie the two open ends, then tie the body of the dumpling to secure the seam. Using scissors, trim and neaten up the ends of the leaf. Tightly tie the two open ends, then tie the body of the dumpling to secure the seam. Using scissors, trim and neaten up the ends of the leaf.PUDDING BAG FOLD.

Boiling or steaming your food in a pudding bag has long been an economical and resourceful way to cook. A large amount of dough or batter, wrapped up in a st.u.r.dy cloth, is held together with just enough room to expand as it steams or boils up into a typically round, domelike, or even cylindrical shape. Clean your pudding cloth after each use and it can be used again and again.

1. Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides (and coat with flour if called for). Rub one side of the damp muslin with b.u.t.ter, leaving a narrow border on all sides (and coat with flour if called for).2. Center the dough or batter on top of the muslin. Center the dough or batter on top of the muslin.3. Gather up the corners of the muslin and arrange the folds neatly, creating a bag. Gather up the corners of the muslin and arrange the folds neatly, creating a bag.4. As you collect the muslin and prepare it for tying, it should be left slightly baggy so that the dumpling can swell as it cooks. Be certain, however, to grip the muslin low enough to leave no open gaps. As you collect the muslin and prepare it for tying, it should be left slightly baggy so that the dumpling can swell as it cooks. Be certain, however, to grip the muslin low enough to leave no open gaps.5. Tightly tie the gathered muslin. Tightly tie the gathered muslin.TWO-HUSK TAMALE FOLD 2 (LONG).

Like the Two-Husk Tamale Fold 1 (Wide), this fold requires you to overlap two corn husks, only here the husks are positioned lengthwise instead of side by side. After the batter is added, the tamale is folded up and tied on both ends.

1. Arrange two corn husks, smooth side up, overlapping their wider ends by about 2 inches. Arrange two corn husks, smooth side up, overlapping their wider ends by about 2 inches.2. Center the batter on top of the overlapping husks. Center the batter on top of the overlapping husks.3. Fold over one side. Fold over one side.4. Fold over the opposite side. Fold over the opposite side.5. Tightly tie the two open ends, but leave a little room at each end for the dumpling to expand into while it cooks. Using scissors, trim and neaten up the ends of the husks. Tightly tie the two open ends, but leave a little room at each end for the dumpling to expand into while it cooks. Using scissors, trim and neaten up the ends of the husks.CURLED-LETTER FOLD.

There are many ways you can fold the wontons in the Hung You Chao Shou Hung You Chao Shou (August), but the Curled-Letter Fold is deceptively easy. As with the Belly-b.u.t.ton Fold, you bring the ends of the folded dough square together, pushing the filling into a tight ball, which gives the dumpling a firmer, denser bite. (August), but the Curled-Letter Fold is deceptively easy. As with the Belly-b.u.t.ton Fold, you bring the ends of the folded dough square together, pushing the filling into a tight ball, which gives the dumpling a firmer, denser bite.

1. Center the filling on top of the square. Center the filling on top of the square.2. Fold one side over the filling. Fold one side over the filling.3. Fold over the opposite side. Fold over the opposite side.4. Now take both ends, pull them together, overlap them a bit, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal. Now take both ends, pull them together, overlap them a bit, and pinch to seal. Dab a little water on the ends, if needed, for a better seal.The finished dumplingBAMBOO-LEAF FOLD.

This fold may take some practice because you have to balance three bamboo leaves in one hand. If the bottom leaves begin to tear as you are folding them, carefully slide in a new leaf before removing the torn leaf. Bamboo leaves have a tendency to unravel if you do not keep a tight grip on them while folding. You can use a rubber band to secure the dumpling while you tie it, but be sure to remove the rubber band before cooking.

1. Place two bamboo leaves, smooth side up, lengthwise, and alongside each other in the palm of your hand. Overlap the leaves by about 1 inches. Place two bamboo leaves, smooth side up, lengthwise, and alongside each other in the palm of your hand. Overlap the leaves by about 1 inches.2. Center the rice on top of the overlapped bamboo leaves and spread out into a rectangle about the size of your palm. Arrange the filling on top of the rice and then top with additional rice. Lay a third bamboo leaf, smooth side down, on top of the mound of rice and filling. Center the rice on top of the overlapped bamboo leaves and spread out into a rectangle about the size of your palm. Arrange the filling on top of the rice and then top with additional rice. Lay a third bamboo leaf, smooth side down, on top of the mound of rice and filling.3. Grip and curl the sides of the overlapped bottom leaves over the top leaf by closing your fingers and thumb around the mound of rice and filling. Grip and curl the sides of the overlapped bottom leaves over the top leaf by closing your fingers and thumb around the mound of rice and filling.4. Fold back the top ends of the leaves. Then fold back the bottom ends of the leaves as firmly as you can to create a neat and tight rectangular package. Fold back the top ends of the leaves. Then fold back the bottom ends of the leaves as firmly as you can to create a neat and tight rectangular package.5. Wrap and tie the package four or five times across the width of the dumpling and at least once lengthwise to prevent the leaves from unfolding. Wrap and tie the package four or five times across the width of the dumpling and at least once lengthwise to prevent the leaves from unfolding.

JanuarySEMOLINA DUMPLINGS WITH b.u.t.tER AND CHEESE SAUCE.

Frascatelli (Italy) (Italy) b.u.t.tER-TOSSED SPAETZLE.

Spatzle (Germany) (Germany) POTATO AND DUMPLING BOIL-UP.

Kartoffeln mit Mehlknodel (Germany) (Germany) SPICED GINGERBREAD.

(United States) A WEALTH OF STEAMED RICE m.u.f.fINS.

Fot Gao (China) (China) STEAMED BREAD ROLLS.

Mantou (China) (China) "PRIEST STRANGLERS" WITH BROWN b.u.t.tER AND SAGE Strangolapreti (Italy) (Italy) POTATO GNOCCHI.

Gnocchi di Patate (Italy) (Italy) MARROW DUMPLINGS IN BEEF BROTH.

Markklosschensuppe (Germany) (Germany) Ca.s.sAVA "TAMALES" STUFFED WITH PORK AND CHICKPEAS Pasteles de Yuca (Puerto Rico) (Puerto Rico) POUNDED RICE DUMPLINGS.

Mochi (j.a.pan) (j.a.pan) NEW YEAR'S DAY SOUP WITH POUNDED RICE DUMPLINGS Ozoni (j.a.pan) (j.a.pan) Semolina Dumplings with b.u.t.ter and Cheese Sauce Frascatelli (Italy) (Italy) SERVES 4 4.

This is possibly the best technique in the world for making instant dumplings, and it is a liberating experience for both novices and experienced cooks. By raining droplets of water onto a mound of semolina, doughy morsels are formed of various sizes. These bits of dough are then dropped into simmering water, producing a fresh batch of dumplings in a matter of minutes. Like gnocchi or spatzle spatzle, these dumplings are full-bodied and stand up equally well in an impromptu b.u.t.ter and cheese sauce (as they are prepared here) as they do with a good broth to make a quick and satisfying soup. Semolina, made from durum wheat, is granular in nature, not powdery like all-purpose flour, and is available in both coa.r.s.e and fine varieties. A fine semolina will give you softer, more tender dumplings as compared to the coa.r.s.ely ground kind. You can experiment to see which type suits you best. If you can't find fine semolina, you can also pulse the coa.r.s.er type in a clean spice grinder for a lighter consistency. Frascatelli Frascatelli can also be served with Oxtail Sauce or Walnut Sauce from can also be served with Oxtail Sauce or Walnut Sauce from Gnocchi di Castagne Gnocchi di Castagne (CHESTNUT GNOCCHI WITH WALNUT SAUCE). (CHESTNUT GNOCCHI WITH WALNUT SAUCE).

For the Dumplings3 cups semolina, plus some extra for dustingFor the Sauce4 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter1 cup freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheeseSalt and freshly ground pepper to tasteEquipmentColander with large ( inch) holesLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE DUMPLINGS: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water, and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water, and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low for a gentle simmer.

2. Meanwhile, spread the semolina out evenly on a work surface until about 1 inch deep. (You can also place it in a large, wide bowl. Using a bowl will reduce the surface area of the semolina, causing you to repeat the sprinkling and sifting steps a few more times.) Have ready two large plates. Meanwhile, spread the semolina out evenly on a work surface until about 1 inch deep. (You can also place it in a large, wide bowl. Using a bowl will reduce the surface area of the semolina, causing you to repeat the sprinkling and sifting steps a few more times.) Have ready two large plates.

3. Fill a medium bowl at least halfway with water and place it next to the semolina. Sink your fingers into the water, then flick them a few inches over the semolina, causing the water to splotch across its surface. Continue dipping and flicking until the saturated spots are visible and numerous. The goal is to create a generous amount of spots, not a surface that is soaked through. Dry your hands and gently swirl your fingers through the semolina until evenly coated clumps of dough form. Break apart any exceptionally large pieces into a more uniform size. Fill a medium bowl at least halfway with water and place it next to the semolina. Sink your fingers into the water, then flick them a few inches over the semolina, causing the water to splotch across its surface. Continue dipping and flicking until the saturated spots are visible and numerous. The goal is to create a generous amount of spots, not a surface that is soaked through. Dry your hands and gently swirl your fingers through the semolina until evenly coated clumps of dough form. Break apart any exceptionally large pieces into a more uniform size.

4. Gently scoop the dough pieces into the colander and sift over the semolina that remains on the work surface. Once the excess semolina and smaller bits have been sifted out, turn the dough pieces in the colander onto one of the plates. Gather up and spread the semolina out again. Repeat the sprinkling, swirling, and sifting steps until you have created as many dough pieces as you can, distributing them evenly between the two plates. Gently scoop the dough pieces into the colander and sift over the semolina that remains on the work surface. Once the excess semolina and smaller bits have been sifted out, turn the dough pieces in the colander onto one of the plates. Gather up and spread the semolina out again. Repeat the sprinkling, swirling, and sifting steps until you have created as many dough pieces as you can, distributing them evenly between the two plates.

5. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Bring the water back up to a strong boil over high heat. Carefully slide one plate of the dough pieces into the water and gently stir to prevent sticking. Cook until the dumplings become more buoyant and tumble around easily in the simmering water, about 1 minute, then cook for 1 minute longer. Bring the water back up to a strong boil over high heat. Carefully slide one plate of the dough pieces into the water and gently stir to prevent sticking. Cook until the dumplings become more buoyant and tumble around easily in the simmering water, about 1 minute, then cook for 1 minute longer.

6. Remove the Remove the frascatelli frascatelli with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dough pieces and put them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Reserve cup of the cooking liquid. with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining dough pieces and put them in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. Reserve cup of the cooking liquid.

7. MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Drain the Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Drain the frascatelli frascatelli and turn them into the b.u.t.ter. Toss and stir gently to evenly coat the dumplings. Pour in the reserved cooking water and stir occasionally while the sauce comes to a simmer, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat, mix in the Romano, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve. and turn them into the b.u.t.ter. Toss and stir gently to evenly coat the dumplings. Pour in the reserved cooking water and stir occasionally while the sauce comes to a simmer, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat, mix in the Romano, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.

b.u.t.ter-Tossed Spaetzle Spatzle (Germany) (Germany) SERVES 4 4 TO TO 6 6.

These small, quick-cooking dumplings are a welcome addition to soups, leftover vegetables, and fried eggs. Spatzle Spatzle made from dough are firm and shapable, while batter-based recipes like this one create soft, squiggly dumplings that are spectacular with nothing but b.u.t.ter and a sprinkling of salt. A number of spaetzle-making tools are available at kitchen supply stores. A rotary made from dough are firm and shapable, while batter-based recipes like this one create soft, squiggly dumplings that are spectacular with nothing but b.u.t.ter and a sprinkling of salt. A number of spaetzle-making tools are available at kitchen supply stores. A rotary spatzle spatzle press is the easiest type to handle because it requires very little effort to operate and cleans up fast and tidy. press is the easiest type to handle because it requires very little effort to operate and cleans up fast and tidy.

For the Dumplings3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour1 teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg3 large eggs, beaten1 cups milk or waterFor the Sauce3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunksFor ServingFreshly ground black pepper to tasteEquipmentSpatzle maker, preferably a rotary one, or a food mill with -inch holes maker, preferably a rotary one, or a food mill with -inch holesLarge, wide bowl to hold the dumplings cooked in batches 1. MAKE THE BATTER MAKE THE BATTER: Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer. Fill a large pot halfway with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium for a steady simmer.

2. Combine the flour, salt, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Add the eggs and milk and mix until just combined. Do not overmix. Combine the flour, salt, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Add the eggs and milk and mix until just combined. Do not overmix.

3. COOK THE DUMPLINGS COOK THE DUMPLINGS: Hold the Hold the spatzle spatzle maker over a bowl or a plate as you scoop in half of the batter. (This will catch any leaks and keep things cleaner while you work.) Quickly move the maker over a bowl or a plate as you scoop in half of the batter. (This will catch any leaks and keep things cleaner while you work.) Quickly move the spatzle spatzle maker over the simmering water and crank the handle until the batter has been pushed through. Stir a couple of times to prevent sticking. Simmer until all the maker over the simmering water and crank the handle until the batter has been pushed through. Stir a couple of times to prevent sticking. Simmer until all the spatzle spatzle are floating, 1 to 2 minutes, then cook for 1 minute longer. are floating, 1 to 2 minutes, then cook for 1 minute longer.

4. Remove the Remove the spatzle spatzle with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining batter and place the with a slotted spoon, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with a ladle of the cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Cook the remaining batter and place the spatzle spatzle in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid. in the bowl with another ladle of the cooking liquid.

5. MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS MAKE THE SAUCE AND FINISH THE DUMPLINGS: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over high heat and swirl the pan around until it just begins to brown, about 1 minute. Drain the Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over high heat and swirl the pan around until it just begins to brown, about 1 minute. Drain the spatzle spatzle and turn into the hot b.u.t.ter. Toss and stir until the edges just begin to brown, about 2 minutes longer. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve. and turn into the hot b.u.t.ter. Toss and stir until the edges just begin to brown, about 2 minutes longer. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve.

Potato and Dumpling Boil-Up Kartoffeln mit Mehlknodel (Germany) (Germany) SERVES 4 ( 4 (MAKES ABOUT 20 20 DUMPLINGS DUMPLINGS).

We love this recipe because with just a few nice-sized potatoes and some flour you can pull together a dish that's both reliable and satisfying. Made out of a thick batter-similar to that used for Spatzle Spatzle (preceding recipe)-these dumplings are cooked in a big pot of simmering potatoes. The dumplings and potatoes are then drained and tossed in a hot pan with a generous amount of b.u.t.ter. A topping of fried bread crumbs (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS) adds a salty, toasted crunch. This dumpling dish is good alone or as a side to meat or mushrooms. (preceding recipe)-these dumplings are cooked in a big pot of simmering potatoes. The dumplings and potatoes are then drained and tossed in a hot pan with a generous amount of b.u.t.ter. A topping of fried bread crumbs (see GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS) adds a salty, toasted crunch. This dumpling dish is good alone or as a side to meat or mushrooms.

For the Potatoes3 large boiling potatoes, preferably German b.u.t.terball or Yukon Gold, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubesFor the Dumplings1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg1 large egg, beatenFor Cooking3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into chunks1 small yellow onion, chopped fineSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsleyEquipmentLarge, wide bowl to hold the cooked dumplings and potatoes 1. COOK THE POTATOES COOK THE POTATOES: Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the potatoes, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until the potatoes are just tender, about 10 minutes. Fill a large pot three-quarters of the way with salted water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the potatoes, cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until the potatoes are just tender, about 10 minutes.

2. MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS MAKE AND COOK THE DUMPLINGS: While the potatoes are simmering, combine the flour, salt, and nutmeg in a medium bowl. Add the egg and cup water and mix until combined. Don't overmix. You will have a very moist, sticky dough. While the potatoes are simmering, combine the flour, salt, and nutmeg in a medium bowl. Add the egg and cup water and mix until combined. Don't overmix. You will have a very moist, sticky dough.

3. Once the potatoes have cooked for 10 minutes, scoop up a well-rounded teaspoon of dough. Use another spoon or your finger to move the dough gently off the spoon and into the simmering water with the potatoes. Continue with 10 more spoonfuls of dough, leaving as much s.p.a.ce as you can around each, and stir to prevent sticking. Immediately spoon in the remaining dough and stir. Cook until all of the dumplings are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer. Once the potatoes have cooked for 10 minutes, scoop up a well-rounded teaspoon of dough. Use another spoon or your finger to move the dough gently off the spoon and into the simmering water with the potatoes. Continue with 10 more spoonfuls of dough, leaving as much s.p.a.ce as you can around each, and stir to prevent sticking. Immediately spoon in the remaining dough and stir. Cook until all of the dumplings are floating, 2 to 3 minutes, then cook for 2 minutes longer.

4. Set aside a ladleful of the cooking liquid. Drain the dumplings and potatoes, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with the reserved cooking liquid to prevent sticking. Set aside a ladleful of the cooking liquid. Drain the dumplings and potatoes, place them in the large bowl, and drizzle with the reserved cooking liquid to prevent sticking.

5. PANFRY THE DUMPLINGS AND POTATOES PANFRY THE DUMPLINGS AND POTATOES: Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Drain the dumplings and potatoes and turn them into the b.u.t.ter and onions. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Raise the heat to high and toss and stir occasionally, until the edges of the dumplings begin to brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the parsley, and serve. Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and stir frequently until soft, about 4 minutes. Drain the dumplings and potatoes and turn them into the b.u.t.ter and onions. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Raise the heat to high and toss and stir occasionally, until the edges of the dumplings begin to brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the parsley, and serve.

Spiced Gingerbread (United States) SERVES 6 6 TO TO 8 ( 8 (MAKES 1 1 DUMPLING DUMPLING).

Steamed gingerbread is a cla.s.sic. It's just as dark, moist, and rich as any baked version. While still warm, it can be spooned into a bowl and served with ice cream, or it can be cooled, sliced, and served with a good apple or pear b.u.t.ter.