The Deipnosophists, or Banquet of the Learned of Athenaeus Part 43

The rape is a mix'd breed from radishes; It's grown in garden beds, both long and stiff; One sort they wash and dry in the north wind, A friend to winter and to idle servants: Then it revives when soak'd in water warm.

Cut thou the roots of rape, and gently sc.r.a.pe The not yet juiceless rind in shavings thin; Then dry them in the sun a little while, Then dip them in hot water, and in brine, And pack them closely; or at other times Pour in new wine and vinegar, half and half, Into one vessel, and put salt on the top.

And often 'twill be well to pound fresh raisins, And add them gently, scattering in some seeds Of biting mustard; and some dregs of vinegar, To reach the head and touch the vigorous brain: A goodly dish for those who want a dinner.

And Diphilus or Sosippus, in the Female Deserter, says--

Have you now any sharp fresh vinegar?

I think, too, we've some fig-tree juice, my boy.

In these I'll press the meat as tight as may be; And some dried herbs I'll spread around the dish; For of all condiments these do most surely The body's sensitive parts and nerves excite.

They drive away unpleasant heaviness, And make the guests sit down with appet.i.te.

12. And Alexis, in his Tarentines, when speaking of their banquets, says that the Athenians used to dance at their drinking parties--

_A._ For this now is a common native practice.

At the divine and all-accomplish'd Athens.

They all rise up and dance together when The first sweet scent of wine doth reach their nostrils.

_B._ You tell me of a strange and novel custom.

_A._ So you would say, indeed, if unexpected You on a sudden dropp'd in at a feast; And beardless boys are sure to meet with favour; But when I see that rogue Theodotus, Or some impure and cheating parasite, Affecting nice and delicate airs, such loathing Does seize me, that I'd gladly seize the man, And nail him to the vilest cross.

And Antiphanes, in his Carians, with reference to the Attic fashion of dancing, turns one of the sophists into ridicule, as dancing at a banquet, in the following verses--

Do you not see that eunuch capering, Waving his hands, no signs of shame he shows; He who was lecturing us on Herac.l.i.tus, The only master of Theodectes' school, The spouter of Euripides's proverbs.

And it will not be foreign to the subject to quote here what is said by Eriphus the comic poet, in his olus--

For 'tis an ancient proverb, and a wise one; That old men seek for wine to make them dance, Spite of their age, against their will, my father.

And Alexis, in the play ent.i.tled Isostasium, says--

They drank in picnic fashion, only seeking For some excuse to dance. There was the name Of meat and vegetables; fish, and crabs, Gudgeon and tench, and similago fine.

13. But Matron the parodist, says Plutarch, has given a very agreeable account of an Attic banquet; and as it is very rare I will not scruple, my friends, to repeat it to you--

The feast for much and varied food renown'd, Given by Xenocles, O Muse, resound;[220:1]

For when at Athens he his cards sent round, I went invited, hungry as a hound.

What loaves I saw, how large, how round, how fine,[220:2]-- So white, on them alone one well might dine!

Boreas, enamour'd of the well-baked train, Gazed on them fondly;[220:3] while along the plain The stately Xenocles survey'd the ground, And placed the guests the goodly board around.

Near him the parasite Chaerephoon stood, And like a cormorant gazed upon the food,[220:4]

Ever at other's cost well pleased to eat: Meanwhile the cooks prepared the dainty treat, The skilful cooks, to whom is given all sway The sumptuous feast to quicken or delay.

Then all the rest the herbs and greens did seize, But me the solid meats did rather please; Rich oysters guarded in their solid sh.e.l.l, While to Phnician-brine I said farewell; And threw away the urchin's tasteless meat, Which rattled falling at the servant's feet, Loud as the waves the rocky sh.o.r.e which flout,[220:5]

While they in fun the p.r.i.c.kly spines pull'd out.

There came th' anchovy of Phaleric race Holding a dirty veil before its face,[220:6]

Friend of the Triton, to the Cyclops dear;

And pinna's sweet, and c.o.c.kles fat were there Which the wave breeds beneath its weedy bed, The gristly turbot, and the mullet red.

First in the fray on them I laid my hand, And called on Phbus, by his slave to stand; But when Stratocles, scorning fear, I saw Hold in his hand the mullet's luscious jaw, I seized it too, and while it came apart, Quick with the dainty bit rejoiced my heart.

There, too, the silver-footed Thetis came, The fair-hair'd cuttle-fish, the mighty dame, Fairest of Nereus' daughters, none but she Of fish can both with black and white agree.[221:1]

There, too, the conger, t.i.tyos of the main, Lay on nine tables and o'erspread the plain.[221:2]

Next came the eel, who charm'd the mighty Jove, And soften'd his stern soul to tender love.

So mighty that two wrestlers, of the days Of old Astyanax, could scarcely raise Her from the ground and place her on the board, Nine fathoms long, and full nine cubits broad.

Up stairs, down stairs the busy cooks did haste, While more fresh dishes on the board they placed.

Next forty large black pots appear'd in view, And forty platters from Euba too.

Then various Iris, Jove's commands to bear, In shape of cuttle-fish flew through the air.

The shining perch, the black tail next appear'd; A mortal fish to join immortals dared.

Alone, apart in discontented mood, A gloomy dish, the sullen tunny stood;[221:3]

For ever sad with proud disdain he pined, And the lost arms for ever stung his mind.

The shark, to masons and upholders dear, Good nurse of youth, though rough its skin appear;[221:4]

Nor do I know on earth a nicer food, Though what came next is very near as good, A roasted cestreas; nor alone it lay, For twelve fine sargi came the self-same way.[221:5]

And a dark amias, of every sea Who knows the depths, great Neptune's comrade he.

And squills the minstrels of Olympian Jove, Whom none to look at, all to taste of, love.

The chrysophrys, for shining beauty famed, The crab's hard sh.e.l.l refusing to be tamed.

All these, and many more besides, I saw Crush'd in each hungry guest's devouring jaw.

The royal sturgeon led the second band, Towards whom, though nearly full, I stretch'd my hand; He like ambrosia to my senses look'd, Which I had always thought for G.o.ds alone was cook'd.

Then came a lamprey, large and richly fed, As when he seeks the dragon's daughter's bed.

And next, (the G.o.ddesses such sandals wear,) Of mighty soles a firm and well-match'd pair.

Then the sea thrushes young and fierce, who dive Mid the deep rocks and tear their prey alive.

The sargus, mormyrus, hippurus, spar, The shad, the gale; so countless fishes are.

The feast to view the guests' eyes joyful beam'd, And all the house with the rich odour steam'd.

The host bade all sit down: myself, I thought This woman's food, and something solid sought.

Large in the centre lay a vacant s.p.a.ce, Which herbs and salads did with verdure grace.

Then a sea blackbird came, a morsel nice, And disappear'd, devoured in a trice.

Then came a ham, t' its foes a helpless prey, And while it lasted none could keep away.

But when the feast was o'er I wept with sorrow To think I could not eat on till to-morrow, But must fall back on barley-meal and cheese.

Black broth subdued him and boil'd pett.i.toes; Then came some ducks from Salamis, sacred isle, Borne by the cook, who with a cheerful smile, Marshall'd them where the Athenian phalanx stood; And Chaerephon survey'd the various food, That he might know to choose and eat the best; Then like a lion leapt he on the feast,[222:1]

And seized a mighty leg of turkey hot, To make his supper when he home had got.

Then groats which Vulcan made into a cake, And in Attic pan full thirteen months did bake But when our wish for food was satisfied, We wash'd our hands in ocean's foaming tide; One beauteous slave came round with rich perfume, Another garlands strew'd around the room.

Then foam'd around old Bacchus' rosy tide, And each guest merrily with his fellow vied.

Then the dessert was served; the juicy pear, The apple and pomegranate too were there.

The grape, the nurse of Bacchus, and the plum, And fig, and medlar on the table come.

But I ate nought, I was so full before, Till I that lovely child of Ceres saw, A large sweet round and yellow cake; how then Could I from such a dish, my friends, abstain?

Had I ten mouths, aye, and as many hands, A brazen stomach within brazen bands,[222:2]

They all would on that lovely cake have sprung.

And so the feast of Stratocles I've sung.

14. And Alexis, in his Men running together, ridiculing the Attic banquets, says--

I wish that I could get a brace of cooks, The cleverest in their art in all the city.

For he who a Thessalian would invite, Must never stint his fare in Attic fashion, Nor practise over strict economy; But have in all things a well-order'd feast.

And the Thessalians are truly fond of eating; as Eriphus says in his Light-armed Soldier, thus--

It is not Corinth now, nor Lais here, Nor any feast of sumptuous Thessalians, Whose habits well I know.