The Complete Book of Cheese Part 45

Dutch Red b.a.l.l.s

English name for Edam.

E

Echourgnac, Trappe d'

_Perigord, France_

Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin.

Edam _see_ Chapter 3.

Egg _Finland_

Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds.

Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; French Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. Authorities agree that these should be labeled "egg cheese" so the buyers won't be fooled by their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen their hundred-year-old eggs, by burying them in grain, as all Scandinavians do, and the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China.

Elbinger, or Elbing _West Prussia_

Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is skimmed. Also known as Werderkase and Niederungskase.

Ekiwani _Caucasus_

Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed in.

Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani _Caucasus_

Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in different locales.

Elmo Table _Italy_

Soft, mellow, tasty.

Emiliano _Italy_

Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type.

Emmentaler _Switzerland_

There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all around the world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese listed as similar to Emmentaler of the hardest variety. (_See_ Chapter 3, _also_ Vacherin Fondu.)

"En enveloppe"

French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar to English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to frankly as _nu_, "in the nude."

Engadine _Graubunden, Switzerland_

Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet.

English Dairy _England and U.S.A._

Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has long been imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking cheese.

Entrechaux, le Cachat d' _see_ Cachat.

Epoisses, Fromage d'

_Cote d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France_

Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches across. The season is from November to July. Equally proud of their wine and cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or _marc_ to d'Epoisses in making _confits_ with that name.

Erbo _Italy_

Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who put out both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our sh.o.r.es.

Erce _Languedoc, France_

Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from November to May.

Eriwani _see_ Elisavetpolen.

Ervy _Champagne, France_

Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by two-and-a-half inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. A washed cheese, also known as Fromage de Troyes. In season November to May.

Ess.e.x _U.S.A._

Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English type.

Estrella _see_ Serra da Estrella.

etuve and Demi-etuve _Holland_

Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. In season all year.

Evarglice _Yugoslavia_

Sharp, nutty flavor.

Excelsior _Normandy, France_

Season all year.

F

Factory Cheddar _U.S.A._