The Boy Mechanic Part 25

** Door-Opener for Furnace [83]

The accompanying diagram shows an arrangement to open the coal door of a furnace. When approaching the furnace with a shovelful of coal it is usually necessary to rest the shovel on the top of the ash door, while the coal door is being opened. With my device it is only necessary to press the foot pedal, which opens the door. After putting in the coal, pressing the pedal closes the door. The pulley in the ceiling must be placed a little in front of the door, in order to throw the door open after lifting it from the catch. A large gate hinge is used to hold the pedal to the floor.

--Contributed by Edward Whitney, Madison, Wis.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Furnace Door Opener]

** How to Make an Efficient Wireless Telegraph [84]

By GEORGE W. RICHARDSON

A simple but very efficient wireless telegraph may be constructed at slight cost from the following description:

The sending apparatus consists of nothing but an induction coil with a telegraph key inserted in the primary circuit, i. e., the battery circuit. This apparatus may be purchased from any electrical-supply house. The price of the coil depends upon its size, and upon the size depends the distance signals can be transmitted. If, however, one wishes to construct his own coil he can make and use, with slight changes, the jump-spark coil described elsewhere in this book. This coil, being a 1-in. coil, will transmit nicely up to a distance of one mile; while a 12-in.

coil made on the same plan will transmit 20 miles or even more under favorable conditions.

Change the coil described, as follows: Insert an ordinary telegraph key in the battery circuit, and attach two small pieces of wire with a bra.s.s ball on each, by inserting them in the binding-posts of the coil as shown at B B". Of these two terminal wires one is grounded to earth, while the other wire is sent aloft and is called the aerial line. This const.i.tutes all there is to the sending apparatus.

Now for the receiving apparatus. In the earlier receiving instruments a coherer was used, consisting of a gla.s.s tube about 1/8-in. diameter, in which were two silver pistons separated by nickel and silver filings, in a partial vacuum. This receiver was difficult of adjustment and slow in transmission. An instrument much less complicated and inexpensive and which will work well can be made thus:

Take a 5-cp. incandescent lamp and break off the tip at the dotted line, as shown in Fig. 5. This can be done by giving the gla.s.s tip or point a quick blow with a file or other thin edged piece of metal. Then with a blow-torch heat the broken edges until red hot and turn the edges in as seen in Fig. 6. Remove the carbon filament in the lamp and bend the two small platinum wires so they will point at each other as in Fig. 6, W W. Screw the lamp into an ordinary wall socket which will serve as a base as in Fig. 7. Make a solution of 1 part sulphuric acid to 4 parts of water, and fill the lamp about two-thirds full (Fig. 7). This will make an excellent receiver. It will be necessary to adjust the platinum points, W W, to suit the distance the message is to be worked. For a mile or less the points should be about 1/16 in. apart, and closer for longer distances.

The tuning coil is simply a variable choking coil, made of No. 14 insulated copper wire wound on an iron core, as shown in Fig. 7.

After winding, carefully sc.r.a.pe the insulation from one side of the coil, in a straight line from top to bottom, the full length of the coil, uncovering just enough to allow a

[Ill.u.s.tration: Aerial]

good contact for the sliding piece. The tuning is done by sliding the contact piece, which is made of light copper wire, along the convolutions of the tuning coil until you can hear the signals.

The signals are heard in a telephone receiver, which is shown connected in shunt across the binding posts of the lamp holder with one or two cells of dry battery in circuit, Fig. 7.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Details]

The aerial line, No.6 stranded, is run from binding-post B through the choking or tuning coil, and for best results should extend up 50 ft. in the air. To work a 20-mile distance the line should be 100 or 150 ft. above the ground. A good way is to erect a wooden pole on a house or barn and carry the aerial wire to the top and out to the end of a gaff or arm.

To the end of the aerial wire fasten a bunch of endless loops made of about No. 14 magnet wire (bare or insulated), attaching both ends to the leading or aerial wire. The aerial wire should not come nearer than 1 ft. at any point to any metal which is grounded.

Run a wire from the other binding post, A, to the ground and be sure to make a good ground connection.

For simple experimental work on distances of 100 ft. only, an ordinary automobile spark coil can be used in place of the more elaborate coil, Figs. 1 to 4.

The above-mentioned instruments have no patents on them, and anyone is at liberty to build and use them. The writer does not claim to be the originator, but simply ill.u.s.trates the above to show that, after all, wireless is very simple when it is once understood. The fundamental principles are that induction travels at right angles, 90 degrees, to the direction of the current. For an ill.u.s.tration, if a person standing on a bridge should drop a pebble into the water below, after contact he would note circles radiating out over the surface of the water. These circles, being at right angles, 90 degrees, to the direction of the force that caused the circles, are a.n.a.logous to the flow of induction, and hence the aerial line, being vertical, transmits signals horizontally over the earth's surface.

** Beeswax for Wood Filler [85]

When filling nail holes in yellow pine use beeswax instead of putty, as it matches the color well.

** How to Make a Lathe [86]

A small speed-lathe, suitable for turning wood or small metal articles, may be easily made at very little expense. A lathe of this kind is shown in the cut (Fig. 1), where A is the headstock, B the bed and C the tailstock. I run my lathe by power, using an electric motor and countershaft, but it could be run by foot power if desired. A large cone pulley would then be required, but this may be made in the same manner as the small one, which will be described later.

[Ill.u.s.tration: a.s.sembled Lathe Bed and Bearing Details]

The bed of the machine is made of wood as shown in Figs. 2 and 3, hardwood being preferable for this purpose. Fig. 2 shows an end view of the a.s.sembled bed, and Fig. 3 shows how the ends are cut out to receive the side pieces.

The headstock, Fig. 6, is fastened to the bed by means of carriage bolts, A, which pa.s.s through a piece of wood, B, on the under side of the bed. The shaft is made of 3/4-in. steel tubing about 1/8 in. thick, and runs in babbitt bearings, one of which is shown in Fig. 5.

To make these bearings, cut a square hole in the wood as shown, making half of the square in each half of the bearing. Separate the two halves of the bearing slightly by placing a piece of cardboard on each side, just touching the shaft. The edges which touch the shaft should be notched like the teeth of a saw, so as to allow the babbitt to run into the lower half of the bearing.

The notches for this purpose may be about 1/8 in. pitch and 1/8 in. deep. Place pieces of wood against the ends of the bearing as shown at A and B, Fig. 4, and drill a hole in the top of the bearing as shown in Fig. 4.

The bearing is then ready to be poured. Heat the babbitt well, but not hot enough to burn it, and it is well to have the shaft hot, too, so that the babbitt will not be chilled when it strikes the shaft. If the shaft is thoroughly chalked or smoked the babbitt will not stick to it. After pouring, remove the shaft and split the bearing with a round, tapered wooden pin. If the bearing has been properly made, it will split along the line of the notched cardboard where the section of the metal is smallest. Then drill a hole in the top as shown at A, Fig. 5, drilling just deep enough to have the point of the drill appear at the lower side. This cavity acts as an oil cup and prevents the bearing from running dry.

The bolts B (Fig. 5) are pa.s.sed through holes in the wood and screwed into nuts C, which are let into holes

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 6 Headstock Details]

D, the holes afterward being filled with melted lead.

This type of bearing will be found very satisfactory and may be used to advantage on other machines. After the bearings are completed the cone pulley can be placed on the shaft. To make this pulley cut three circular pieces of wood to the dimensions given in Fig. 6 and fasten these together with nails and glue. If not perfectly true, they may be turned up after a.s.sembling, by rigging up a temporary toolrest in front of the headstock.

The tail stock (Fig. 7) is fastened to the bed in the same manner as the headstock, except that thumb nuts are used on the carriage bolts, thus allowing the tail stock to be shifted when necessary.

The mechanism of the center holder is obtained by using a 1/2-in.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG.7 Details of Tailstock]

pipe, A, and a 1/2-in. lock nut, B, embedded in the wood. I found that a wooden tool-rest was not satisfactory, so I had to buy one, but they are inexpensive and much handier than homemade tool rest.

--Contributed by Donald Reeves, Oak Park, Ill.

** To Use Old Battery Zincs [87]

When the lower half of a battery zinc becomes eaten away the remaining part can be used again by suspending it from a wire as shown in the cut. Be sure and have a good connection at the zinc binding post and cover that with melted paraffin. This prevents corrosion, which would otherwise occur from the action of the sal ammoniac or other chemical. The wire may be held at the top by twisting it around a piece

[Ill.u.s.tration: Showing Zinc Suspended]

of wood or by driving a peg through the hole in the porcelain insulator.

--Contributed by Louis Lauderbach, Newark, N.J.

** Callers' Approach Alarm [87]

This alarm rings so that callers approaching the door may be seen before they ring the bell and one can exercise his pleasure about admitting them.

If one has a wooden walk, the alarm is easy to fix up. Take up about 5 ft. of the walk and nail it together so as to make a trapdoor that will work easily. Place a small spring under one end to hold it up about 1/4 in. (A, Fig. 2). Nail a strip of tin along the under side of the trap near the spring and fasten another strip on the baseboard, so that they will not touch, save when a weight is on the trap. Connect up an electric bell, putting the batteries and bell anywhere desired, and using rubber-covered