The Book of Household Management Part 201

SMOKING CHEESES.--The Romans smoked their cheeses, to give them a sharp taste. They possessed public places expressly for this use, and subject to police regulations which no one could evade.

A celebrated gourmand remarked that a dinner without cheese is like a woman with one eye.

CHEESE SANDWICHES.

1641. INGREDIENTS.--Slices of brown bread-and-b.u.t.ter, thin slices of cheese.

_Mode_.--Cut from a nice fat Cheshire, or any good rich cheese, some slices about 1/2 inch thick, and place them between some slices of brown bread-and-b.u.t.ter, like sandwiches. Place them on a plate in the oven, and, when the bread is toasted, serve on a napkin very hot and very quickly.

_Time_.--10 minutes in a brisk oven.

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d. each sandwich.

_Sufficient_.--Allow a sandwich for each person.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

CHEESE.--One of the most important products of coagulated milk is cheese. Unfermented, or cream-cheese, when quite fresh, is good for subjects with whom milk does not disagree; but cheese, in its commonest shape, is only fit for sedentary people as an after-dinner stimulant, and in very small quant.i.ty. Bread and cheese, as a meal, is only fit for soldiers on march or labourers in the open air, who like it because it "holds the stomach a long time."

CAYENNE CHEESES.

1642. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of b.u.t.ter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 lb. of grated cheese, 1/3 teaspoonful of cayenne, 1/3 teaspoonful of salt; water.

_Mode_.--Rub the b.u.t.ter in the flour; add the grated cheese, cayenne.

and salt; and mix these ingredients well together. Moisten with sufficient water to make the whole into a paste; roll out, and cut into fingers about 4 inches in length. Bake them in a moderate oven a very light colour, and serve very hot.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

TO MAKE A FONDUE.

1643. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, the weight of 2 in Parmesan or good Cheshire cheese, the weight of 2 in b.u.t.ter; pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs; beat the former in a basin, and grate the cheese, or cut it into _very thin_ flakes.

Parmesan or Cheshire cheese may be used, whichever is the most convenient, although the former is considered more suitable for this dish; or an equal quant.i.ty of each may be used. Break the b.u.t.ter into small pieces, add it to the other ingredients, with sufficient pepper and salt to season nicely, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Well whisk the whites of the eggs, stir them lightly in, and either bake the fondue in a souffle-dish or small round cake-tin. Fill the dish only half full, as the fondue should rise very much. Pin a napkin round the tin or dish, and serve very hot and very quickly. If allowed to stand after it is withdrawn from the oven, the beauty and lightness of this preparation will be entirely spoiled.

_Time_.--From 15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

BRILLAT SAVARIN'S FONDUE.

(_An excellent Recipe_.)

1644. INGREDIENTS.--Eggs, cheese, b.u.t.ter, pepper and salt.

_Mode_.--Take the same number of eggs as there are guests; weigh the eggs in the sh.e.l.l, allow a third of their weight in Gruyere cheese, and a piece of b.u.t.ter one-sixth of the weight of the cheese. Break the eggs into a basin, beat them well; add the cheese, which should be grated, and the b.u.t.ter, which should be broken into small pieces. Stir these ingredients together with a wooden spoon; put the mixture into a lined saucepan, place it over the fire, and stir until the substance is thick and soft. Put in a little salt, according to the age of the cheese, and a good sprinkling of pepper, and serve the fondue on a very hot silver or metal plate. Do not allow the fondue to remain on the fire after the mixture is set, as, if it boils, it will be entirely spoiled. Brillat Savarin recommends that some choice Burgundy should he handed round with this dish. We have given this recipe exactly as he recommends it to be made; but we have tried it with good Cheshire cheese, and found it answer remarkably well.

_Time_.--About 4 minutes to set the mixture.

_Average cost_ for 4 persons, 10d.

_Sufficient_.--Allow 1 egg, with the other ingredients in proportion, for one person.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

MACARONI, as usually served with the CHEESE COURSE.

I.

1645. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of pipe macaroni, 1/4 lb. of b.u.t.ter, 6 oz.

of Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of milk, 2 pints of water, bread crumbs.

_Mode_.--Put the milk and water into a saucepan with sufficient salt to flavour it; place it on the fire, and, when it boils quickly, drop in the macaroni. Keep the water boiling until it is quite tender; drain the macaroni, and put it into a deep dish. Have ready the grated cheese, either Parmesan or Cheshire; sprinkle it amongst the macaroni and some of the b.u.t.ter cut into small pieces, reserving some of the cheese for the top layer. Season with a little pepper, and cover the top layer of cheese with some very fine bread crumbs. Warm, without oiling, the remainder of the b.u.t.ter, and pour it gently over the bread crumbs. Place the dish before a bright fire to brown the crumbs; turn it once or twice, that it may be equally coloured, and serve very hot. The top of the macaroni may be browned with a salamander, which is even better than placing it before the fire, as the process is more expeditious; but it should never be browned in the oven, as the b.u.t.ter would oil, and so impart a very disagreeable flavour to the dish. In boiling the macaroni, let it be perfectly tender but firm, no part beginning to melt, and the form entirely preserved. It may be boiled in plain water, with a little salt instead of using milk, but should then have a small piece of b.u.t.ter mixed with it.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to brown it before the fire.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--Riband macaroni may be dressed in the same manner, but does not require boiling so long a time.

II.

1646. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of pipe or riband macaroni, 1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of veal or beef gravy, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 3 oz. of grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, 1 oz. of b.u.t.ter.

_Mode_.--Wash the macaroni, and boil it in the gravy and milk until quite tender, without being broken. Drain it, and put it into rather a deep dish. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the cream and 2 tablespoonfuls of the liquor the macaroni was boiled in; make this sufficiently hot to thicken, but do not allow it to boil; pour it over the macaroni, over which sprinkle the grated cheese and the b.u.t.ter broken into small pieces; brown with a salamander, or before the fire, and serve.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to thicken the eggs and cream, 5 minutes to brown.

_Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

III.

1647. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of pipe macaroni, 1/2 pint of brown gravy No. 436, 6 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese.

_Mode_.--Wash the macaroni, and boil it in salt and water until quite tender; drain it, and put it into rather a deep dish. Have ready a pint of good brown gravy, pour it hot over the macaroni, and send it to table with grated Parmesan served on a separate dish. When the flavour is liked, a little pounded mace may be added to the water in which the macaroni is boiled; but this must always be sparingly added, as it will impart a very strong flavour.

_Time_.--1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour to boil the macaroni.