The Art of Needle-work, from the Earliest Ages Part 22

_Gammer._ "Within the house, and at the door, sitting by this same post; Where I was looking a long hour, before these folke came here; But, wel away! all was in vain, my neele is never the near!"

"Gammer Gurton's Needle," says Hazlitt, "is a regular comedy, in five acts, built on the circ.u.mstance of an old woman having lost her needle which throws the whole village into confusion, till it is at last providentially found sticking in an unlucky part of Hodge's dress.

This must evidently have happened at a time when the manufactures of Sheffield and Birmingham had not reached the height of perfection which they have at present done. Suppose that there is only one sewing needle in a village, that the owner, a diligent notable old dame, loses it, that a mischief-making wag sets it about that another old woman has stolen this valuable instrument of household industry, that strict search is made every where in-doors for it in vain, and that then the incensed parties sally forth to scold it out in the open air, till words end in blows, and the affair is referred over to the higher authorities, and we shall have an exact idea (though, perhaps, not so lively a one) of what pa.s.ses in this authentic doc.u.ment between Gammer Gurton and her gossip Dame Chat; d.i.c.kon the Bedlam (the causer of these harms); Hodge, Gammer Gurton's servant; Tyb, her maid; c.o.c.ke, her 'prentice boy; Doll Scapethrift; Master Baillie, his master; Dr.

Rat, the curate; and Gib, the cat, who may fairly be reckoned one of the _dramatis personae_, and performs no mean part."

From the needle itself the transition is easy to the needlework which was in vogue at the time when this little implement was so valuable and rare a commodity. We are told that the various kinds of needlework practised at this time would, if enumerated, astonish even the most industrious of our modern ladies. The lover of Shakspeare will remember that the term _point device_ is often used by him, and that, indeed, it is a term frequently met with in the writers of that age with various applications; and it is originally derived, according to Mr. Douce, from the fine st.i.tchery of the ladies.

It has been properly stated, that _point device_ signifies _exact_, _nicely_, _finical_; but nothing has been offered concerning the etymology, except that we got the expression from the French. It has, in fact, been supplied from the labours of the needle. _Poinct_, in the French language, denotes a _st.i.tch_; _devise_ any thing _invented_, disposed, or _arranged_. _Point devise_ was, therefore, a particular sort of patterned lace worked with the needle; and the term _point lace_ is still familiar to every female. They had likewise their _point-coupe_, _point-compte_, _dentelle au point devant l'aiguille_, &c. &c.

But it is apparent, he adds, that the expression _point devise_ became applicable, in a _secondary_ sense, to whatever was uncommonly exact, or constructed with the nicety and precision of st.i.tches made or devised with the needle.

Various books of patterns of needlework for the a.s.sistance and encouragement of the fair st.i.tchers were published in those days. Mr.

Douce[116] enumerates some of them, and the omission of any part of his notation would be unpardonable in the present work.

The earliest on the list is an Italian book, under the t.i.tle of "Esemplario di lavori: dove le tenere fanciulle et altre donne n.o.bile potranno facilmente imparare il modo et ordine di lavorare, cusire, raccamare, et finalmente far tutte quelle gentillezze et lodevili opere, le quali p fare una donna virtuosa con laco in mano, con li suoi compa.s.se et misure. Vinegia, per Nicolo D'Aristotile detto Zoppino, MDXXIX. 8vo."

The next that occurs was likewise set forth by an Italian, and ent.i.tled, "Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de lingerie.

Paris, 1588. 4to." It is dedicated to the Queen of France, and had been already twice published.

In 1599 a second part came out, which is much more difficult to be met with than the former, and sometimes contains a neat portrait, by Gaultier, of Catherine de Bourbon, the sister of Henry the Fourth.

The next is "Nouveaux pourtraicts de point coupe et dantelles en pet.i.te moyenne et grande forme, nouvellement inventez et mis en lumiere. Imprime a Montbeliard, 1598. 4to." It has an address to the ladies, and a poem exhorting young damsels to be industrious; but the author's name does not appear. Vincentio's work was published in England, and printed by John Wolfe, under the t.i.tle of "New and Singular Patternes and Workes of Linnen, serving for paternes to make all sortes of lace, edginges, and cutworkes. Newly invented for the profite and contentment of ladies, gentilwomen, and others that are desireous of this Art. 1591. 4to." He seems also to have printed it with a French t.i.tle.

We have then another English book, of which this is the t.i.tle: "Here foloweth certaine Patternes of Cutworkes; newly invented and never published before. Also, sundry sortes of spots, as flowers, birdes, and fishes, &c., and will fitly serve to be wrought, some with gould, some with silke, and some with crewell in coullers; or otherwise at your pleasure. And never but once published before. Printed by Rich.

Shorleyker." No date. In oblong quarto.

And lastly, another oblong quarto, ent.i.tled, "The Needle's Excellency, a new booke, wherein are divers admirable workes wrought with the needle. Newly invented and cut in copper for the pleasure and profit of the industrious." Printed for James Boler, &c., 1640. Beneath this t.i.tle is a neat engraving of three ladies in a flower garden, under the names of Wisdom, Industrie, and Follie. Prefixed to the patterns are sundry poems in commendation of the needle, and describing the characters of ladies who have been eminent for their skill in needlework, among whom are Queen Elizabeth and the Countess of Pembroke. The poems were composed by John Taylor the water poet. It appears that the work had gone through twelve impressions, and yet a copy is now scarcely to be met with. This may be accounted for by supposing that such books were generally cut to pieces, and used by women to work upon or transfer to their samplers. From the dress of a lady and gentleman on one of the patterns in the last mentioned book, it appears to have been originally published in the reign of James the First. All the others are embellished with a mult.i.tude of patterns elegantly cut in wood, several of which are eminently conspicuous for their taste and beauty.

We are happy to add a little further information on some of these works, and on others preserved in the British Museum.

"Les singuliers et nouveaux Pourtraicts du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Reyne. A Paris, 1578."[117]

The book opens with a sonnet to the fair, which announces to them an admirable motive for the work itself:--

"Pour tromper vos ennuis, et l'esprit employer."

Aux Dames et Damoyselles.

SONNET.

"L'un s'efforce a gaigner le coeur des {grands} Seigneurs Pour posseder en fin une exquise richesse; L'autre aspire aux estats, pour monter en altesse, Et l'autre, par la guerre alleche les honneurs.

"Quand a moy, seulement pour cha.s.ser mes langueurs, Je me sen satisfaict de vivre en pet.i.tesse, Et de faire si bien, qu'aux Dames ie delaisse Un grand contentement en mes graves labeurs.

"Prenez doncques en gre (mes Dames) ie vous prie, Ces pourtrais ouvragez lesquels ie vous dedie, Pour tromper vos ennuis, et l'esprit employer.

"En ceste nouveaute, pourrez beaucoup apprendre, Et maistresses en fin en cest oeuvre vous rendre, Le travail est plaisant: Si grand est le loyer."

Which, barring elegant diction and poetic rule, may be read thus:--

Whilst one man worships lordly state As yielding all that he desires-- This, fertile acres begs from fate; Another, b.l.o.o.d.y laurels fires.

To dissipate my devils blue, Trifles, I'm satisfied to do; For surely if the fair I please, My very labours smack of ease.

Take then, fair ladies, I you pray, The book which at your feet I lay, To make you happy, brisk and gay.

There's much you here may learn anew, Which _comme il faut_ will render you, And bring you joy and honour too.

Proceed we to the--

"Ouvrages de point Coupe," of which there are thirty-six. Some birds, animals, and figures are introduced; but the patterns are chiefly arabesque, set off in white, on a thick black ground.

Then, with a repet.i.tion of the ornamented t.i.tle-page, come about fifty patterns, which are represented much like the German patterns of the present day, in squares for st.i.tches, but not so finely wrought as some which we shall presently notice. These patterns consist of arabesques, figures, birds, beasts, flowers, in every variety. To many the st.i.tches are ready counted (as well as pourtrayed), thus:--

"Ce Pelican contient en longueur 70 mailles, et en hauteur 65." This pattern of maternity is represented as pecking her breast, towards which three young ones are flying; their course being indicated by the three lines of white st.i.tches, all converging to the living nest.

"Ce Griffon {contient} en hauteur 58 mailles, et en {longueur} 67."

Small must be the skill of the needlewoman who does not make this a very rampant animal indeed.

"Ce Paon contient en longueur 65 mailles, et en hauteur 61."

"La Licorne en hauteur {contient} 44 mailles, et en longueur 62, &c.

&c."

"La bordure contient 25 mailles."

"La bordure de haut {contient} 35 mailles." This is a very handsome one, resembling pine apples.

"Ce quarre contient 65 mailles." There are several of these squares, and borders appended, of very rich patterns.

But the book contains far more ambitious designs. There are Sol, Luna, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus, Saturn, Neptune, and others, whose dignities and vocation must be inferred from the emblematical accompaniments.

There is "La Deesse des fleurs representant le printemps."

"La Deesse des Bleds representant l'este."

"Ce Bacchus representant l'Autonne."

"Ceste figure representant l'hiver," &c. &c.

Appended is this "Extraict du Privilege."

"Per grace et privelege du Roy, est permis a Jean le Clerc le jeune, tailleur d'histoires a Paris, d'imprimer ou faire imprimer {vendre} et distribuer un livre int.i.tule livre de patrons de Lingerie, DEDIE A LA ROYNE, nouvellement invente par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, avec deffences a tous Libraires, Imprimeurs, ou autres, de quelque condition et qualite quilz soyent, de faire ny contrefaire, aptisser ny {agrandir}, ou pocher lesdits figures, ny exposer en vente ledict Livre sans le {conge} ou permission dudict le Clerc, et ce jusques au temps et terme de neuf ans finis et accomplis, sur peine de confiscation de tous les livres qui se trouveront imprimez, et damande arbitraire: comme plus a plein est declare en lettres patentes, donnees a Paris ce douziesme jour de Novembre, 1587."

Another work, preserved in the British Museum, was published at Strasbourg, 1596, seemingly from designs of the same Vinciolo. These consist of about six-and-thirty plates, with patterns in white on a black ground, consisting of a few birds and figures, but chiefly of stars and wreaths p.r.i.c.ked out in every possible variety; and at the end of the book a dozen richly wrought patterns, without any edging, were seemingly designed for what we should now call "insertion" work or lace.

There is another, by the same author, printed at Basil in 1599, which varies but slightly from the foregoing.

This Frederick de Vinciolo is doubtless the same person who was summoned to France, by Catherine de Medicis, to instruct the ladies of the court in the art of netting the lace of which the then fashionable ruffs were made.