Self-Instructor in the Art of Hair Work Part 17

[Ill.u.s.tration: RECEPTION HEAD-DRESS.]

This Head-Dress is a most charming composition, and entirely new. It is adapted either for a brown or fair complexion, to be worn at grand dinners or receptions. Ornamented with pearl or gilt, it is in good taste for evening parties.

EXPLANATION: Curl the hair across forehead, or use false curls, combing the hair straight back, and form a chignon of curls at the back. Place a diadem plait across forehead, and raise the hair from the temples over the plait. Trim with roses and ribbans, or to suit dress.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SOIREE OR EVENING HEAD-DRESS.]

This cut ill.u.s.trates the Soiree or Evening Head-Dress. It is a very unique and modern style, suited for almost any complexion, and very easily executed.

EXPLANATION: Comb the hair straight back between the temples, tie it, and curl the ends, or use a set of long false curls. Place a diadem plait, made from a switch, across the forehead; then comb the hair back from the temples, over the ends of the plait, twist it, pa.s.s it back under the curls, and fasten firmly. Use a fancy back-comb on top of curls, and pin an ornament to diadem plait, with feather and chain attached, as in cut, or trim to suit dress.

[Ill.u.s.tration: GRAND EVENING PARTY HEAD-DRESS.]

A very graceful Head-Dress, of a bold style, suited for a young lady of brown or fair complexion, and is in good taste to be worn at the theatre or Grand Evening Parties.

EXPLANATION: Make a parting over the head, from ear to ear, two inches from front; on the forehead, between the temples, curl the hair in small friz curls, and from the temple to the ear, make loose puffs. Divide the hair in three partings over the head, and roll each in a large puff; then form a large puff of the back hair, round the nape of the neck, as in cut. Fasten a large set of loose curls over the puff, with a comb or other ornament. For reference, see page 245.

[Ill.u.s.tration: EMPRESS HEAD-DRESS.]

A charming Head-Dress, and entirely new, perfectly suiting a fair complexion. It may serve for the theatre or evening parties. When powdered it preferably suits a brown or brunette.

EXPLANATION: Make a front parting, and a cross one from ear to ear.

Divide each side into five parts; of the front parting make three puffs on each side. The remaining four make into long puffs, as in cut, according to explanations on page 245. The back hair may be arranged in the same style of puffs, or with a double Chignon, placing a single, long false curl or braid, back of each ear. Trim with orange leaves, or to suit dress.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PARISIAN HEAD-DRESS.]

This Head-Dress, both bold and graceful, is suitable for any complexion or age, when the physiognomy allows it.

EXPLANATION: Comb back the hair from the forehead between the temples, make a large puff on the temples, and three puffs above each ear. Place a cushion at the back of head, and comb the hair over it, forming a chignon; then place a diadem plait, or twist, made from a large switch, round on the top of head, trimmed with leaves or ribbon, as shown in cut.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE APOLLO HEAD-DRESS.]

This Head-Dress is one of the most graceful styles. It was worn in the time of Louis XIVth, and well agrees with the fashion of the present day. With some modifications, it is suited to every complexion.

EXPLANATION: Crimp the front hair, and raise it over the temples with a puff comb. Comb the hair just above the ear back, and friz the ends, and curl the back hair in large flowing curls, as shown in the cut.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE MODERN HEAD-DRESS.]

A Head-Dress of elegant composition, coming down from antiquity, suitable for a young and pretty woman, and perfectly agreeing with a fair complexion.

EXPLANATION: Part the hair from temple to temple, one inch from front, comb it up on the forehead, and curl the ends in small snap curls; then comb the hair back from the temples, and form a loose puff. Make three partings across the head, and form a puff of each. Of the back hair, make a braided or plaited chignon, with a few friz curls underneath; then make two puffs back of the ear, as shown in cut. Wear a fancy comb or band over the top of chignon.

[Ill.u.s.tration: EVENING PROMENADE HEAD-DRESS.]

A Head-Dress of extraordinary simplicity, and of a most genteel kind, becoming a dark complexion. It may be adapted for the opera by changing the tr.i.m.m.i.n.g.

EXPLANATION: First crimp all the hair, then place a cushion high up under the hair at the back, forming a chignon, and friz the ends of the hair from ear to ear under the chignon. Tuck the hair high up on the forehead, place bands of ribbon over the head with a net at the back, and bring the hair above the ear up, and fasten to the ribbon. Pin a ribbon streamer to the net, as in cut.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE SHEPHERDESS HEAD-DRESS.]

An elegant Head-Dress, and was worn in the time of Louis XVI, for b.a.l.l.s and evening parties, or as a disguise when powdered.

EXPLANATION: Separate the hair across the head from ear to ear, three inches from front, and roll it in puffs according to directions on page 245. Do up the back hair in a double chignon, either with your own or false hair; add a set of false curls underneath the chignon, extending from ear to ear. Trim to suit dress with leaves, flowers and ribbon, as shown in ill.u.s.tration.

[Ill.u.s.tration: COURT HEAD-DRESS.]

A rich Head-Dress, having a great stamp of distinction, and for that reason will be adapted for a Court Head-Dress, or Grand Evening Parties.

EXPLANATION: Make a parting over the head from ear to ear, two inches from front, and form a row of nine small puffs over the forehead. Comb the remaining hair back, and divide into four partings around the head, and form each parting in a large puff, as in cut. Add a few small friz curls and orange blossoms between the puffs. For reference see page 245.

[Ill.u.s.tration: YOUNG BRIDE'S HEAD-DRESS.]

An exquisite Head-Dress, of a very graceful style, and well agreeing with a fair or brown complexion, to be worn by a young bride, or at grand a.s.semblies.

EXPLANATION: Comb the hair back and place a set of small loose curls across the forehead; place a diadem plait over the top of the curls, and comb the hair off the temples over the ends of the plait, and form a chignon or bow of the back hair, and place a three-strand braid around the chignon, made either from the ends of hair from the temple or a switch. Add a crown of white blossoms and a veil, as shown in the engraving. If not for a bride, trim to match dress.

[Ill.u.s.tration: NEAPOLITAN HEAD-DRESS.]

An exquisite Head-Dress, of exceedingly graceful and modern style, agreeing with nearly every complexion; may be worn as a promenade or at small parties.

EXPLANATION: Part the hair from front to crown, and from ear to ear; crimp the front, and braid the ends in a three-strand braid, and trim the ends with ribbon. Either braid or twist the back hair, and form into a coil. Place a small plait across the forehead, as shown in the engraving. Deck the hair with flowers or beads, to suit the occasion.

SYNOPTIC OF HUMAN HAIR.

In placing before the public the only book ever published in the "Art of Hair Work," it is but due to the purchasers of it to say something in relation to the trade in Human Hair. It is not my intention, however, to enter into an extended detail and complete history, but simply give a few items that will serve to show what enormous strides have been taken within the last few years in this branch of business. It is a business that but few know anything about--at least in this country, for it is comparatively new here--but it is one that is very rapidly increasing, and is now almost doubling itself each year.

The larger quant.i.ty, in fact nearly the whole amount of hair retailed in this country is imported from Europe, where the dealing in human hair has been made an established and legitimate business for years, and a great deal of attention is paid in purchasing and preparing it for the market. Paris is the greatest market for the sale of human hair in the world; but the amount of superfluous hair used and worn throughout all Europe, could we give the figures, would seem incredible. The amount imported to the United States in the years of 1859 and 1860 was not far from 150,000 and 200,000 pounds, which was valued at that time at from $800,000 to $1,000,000. Since that time it has been steadily increasing, and the amount imported last year may be set down at three times as much as during the years above mentioned. Paris also finds as great a sale for the article in Russia as in America--the shipments to each being about equal. Thus, it will be seen, that if all the hair reserved in Europe for the home demand were added to that which is imported, the amount would be almost beyond conception; and yet, but about one-tenth part of the whole production ever leaves its native country.

It is mostly procured from the markets of France, Italy, Russia and Germany, and large quant.i.ties are obtained from Norway and Sweden.

The Norwegians were among the first to make ornaments of hair to be worn as jewelry, but, in a great measure, we are indebted to the French for the perfection to which the art has attained. Of the different varieties of hair, that which is obtained in France and Italy is by far the best, being of a much finer texture, even color, and of a more glossy appearance than that from other countries.

The princ.i.p.al requirement in hair to make it valuable is length, and after it is thrown upon the market it is all a.s.sorted--the long from the short--which is a task of extreme difficulty.

The prices of hair range all the way from $15 to $200 per pound, (a wide range, but certainly not too large,) and is rated according to hue, length and texture. The smallest price paid is for the short, coa.r.s.e hair of the poorest quality, and which can be used only for certain purposes. Hair of the ordinary colors range in price from $15 to $100 per pound, but that of gray and white from $100 to $200 per pound, and even then is not considered exorbitant. In fact, hair is worth any and all prices. We know of one dealer who had in his possession a very small quant.i.ty, weighing but a half pound and measuring seventy inches, for which he was offered _four hundred dollars!_ and, strange as it may appear, he refused to accept it. White hair is mostly obtained by being picked from the gray, and it not unfrequently happens that many hundred pounds have to be a.s.sorted before being able to secure one single pound of pure white. It is mainly used in the manufacture of wigs, and it frequently puzzles the dealer to prepare one for a customer that will exactly match, and this, with the scarcity of the article, cause the extraordinary price.