Rambles in Dickens' Land Part 12

Female carrying sauces to be heated on the spot.

THE BEEF.

Man with Tray on his head, containing Vegetables and Sundries.

Volunteer Hostler from Hotel, grinning, and rendering no a.s.sistance."

After hearty discussion of the orthodox plum-pudding and mince-pies which crowned the feast, the company drew round the fire, and the "brown beauty" of the host-the pitcher, carried first in the procession-was elevated to the table. It proved to be "a glorious jorum" of hot Wa.s.sail, prepared from the chairman's special and private receipt, the materials of which, "together with their proportions and combinations,"

he declines to impart. Gla.s.ses being filled therefrom, the toast of the evening was duly and reverently honoured: "CHRISTMAS! CHRISTMAS EVE, my friends; when the Shepherds, who were poor travellers too, in their way, heard the angels sing, 'On earth peace. Goodwill toward men!'"

The pen of the "Inimitable" was never in more genial feather than when inditing this Christmas story, the cheery and sympathetic humour of which is not excelled even by the "Carol" itself.

Another d.i.c.kensian a.s.sociation with this Rochester Charity may be quoted in connection with Miss Adelaide Procter. During '54 this lady had been a valued contributor to _Household Words_, under the a.s.sumed name of "Berwick," and some speculation arose in the editorial department as to the real personality of the writer. The _nom de plume_ being, in course of time, relinquished, and the secret told, Mr. d.i.c.kens sent a letter of congratulation and appreciation to the young auth.o.r.ess-dated December 17th, 1854-which thus concluded: "Pray accept the blessing and forgiveness of Richard Watts, though I am afraid you come under _both his conditions of exclusion_."

Retracing the High Street route, we again pa.s.s the Gate-house of the Cathedral Close, and come, immediately on the left, to the noted Bull Hotel, a commodious establishment of ancient and respectable repute, and the princ.i.p.al posting-house of the town. This is the celebrated hostelry at which the Pickwickians sojourned on the occasion of their first visit to Rochester, per "Commodore" coach from London. In the large a.s.sembly-room upstairs-"a long room, with crimson-covered benches, and wax candles in gla.s.s chandeliers, with the musicians securely confined in an elevated den"-the memorable Ball took place, on the evening of their arrival, which was attended by _Mr. Tupman_ and his seductive friend _Jingle_; the latter affording some information as to the exclusive character of Rochester society:-

"'Wait a minute,' said the stranger, 'fun presently-n.o.bs not come yet-queer place. Dockyard people of upper rank don't know Dockyard people of lower rank. Dockyard people of lower rank don't know small gentry-small gentry don't know tradespeople-Commissioner don't know anybody.'"

Here Mr. Jingle, on that fateful occasion, gave dire offence to Doctor Slammer, of the 97th Regiment, by making himself obtrusively agreeable to the rich little widow, Mrs. Budger; and we may remember how the Doctor, with his "hitherto bottled-up indignation effervescing from all parts of his countenance in a perspiration of pa.s.sion," insisted on a hostile meeting.

The hotel has a frontage of about 90 feet, with wide pillared gateway, and extensive stabling at the back. Proceeding past the Guildhall on the right, towards the end of the street, facing Rochester Bridge, we arrive at The Crown Hotel, pleasantly situated at the corner of the Esplanade and High Street, one side of the house facing the Medway; a white-brick edifice lately rebuilt. It is referred to in chapter 18 of "Edwin Drood"

as "_The Crozier_," the orthodox hotel at which _Mr. Datchery_ took up his temporary abode, previous to settling in Cloisterham as "a single buffer-an idle dog who lived upon his means." Other visitors to Rochester may advantageously imitate Mr. Datchery's example, the position and conduct of the house being alike excellent.

Round the corner to the left, commences The Esplanade, extending under the castle walls, and along the bank of the river for a considerable distance. This promenade is mentioned in the 13th chapter of "Edwin Drood," being the scene of the last interview between Edwin and Rosa, when they mutually agreed to cancel the irksome bond between them-

"They walked on by the river. They began to speak of their separate plans. He would quicken his departure from England, and she would remain where she was, at least as long as Helena remained. The poor dear girls should have their disappointment broken to them gently, and, as the first preliminary, Miss Twinkleton should be confided in by Rosa, even in advance of the reappearance of Mr. Grewgious. It should be made clear in all quarters that she and Edwin were the best of friends. There had never been so serene an understanding between them since they were first affianced."

Leaving Rochester by The Bridge, crossing the Medway, we may bestow a pa.s.sing thought on _Richard Doubled.i.c.k_ as he came over the same, "with half a shoe to his dusty feet," in the year 1799, limping into the town of Chatham. (See "The Seven Poor Travellers," previously mentioned.)

[Picture: Gadshill Place]

On the north side of the river, the Rambler enters the town of _Strood_, and may proceed through the same, about two miles on the Gravesend Road, to

GADSHILL PLACE,

the last residence of Charles d.i.c.kens. It is situated on the left-hand side, nearly opposite the _Falstaff Inn_. The house was purchased by him on the 14th of March 1856, for 1790; and he afterwards projected and carried out many costly additions and improvements thereto. On the first-floor landing is displayed an illuminated frame (the work of Mr.

Owen Jones), which reads as follows:-

"THIS HOUSE, GADSHILL PLACE, stands on the summit of Shakespeare's Gadshill, ever memorable for its a.s.sociation with Sir John Falstaff in his n.o.ble fancy-'_But_, _my lads_, _my lads_, _to-morrow morning_, _by four o'clock_, _early at Gadshill_! _there are pilgrims going to Canterbury with rich offerings_, _and traders riding to London with fat purses_: _I have vizards for you all_; _you have horses for yourselves_.'"

On this residence d.i.c.kens had fixed his choice in his boyish days. It had always held a prominent place amid the recollections connected with his childhood. Forster says that "upon first seeing it as he came from Chatham with his father, and looking up at it with admiration, he had been promised that he might live in it himself, or some such house, when he came to be a man, if he would only work hard enough." It is pleasant to record that this ambition was gratified in after life, when the dream of his boyhood was realised.

In the contiguous shrubbery was placed a Swiss Chalet, presented to d.i.c.kens by his friend Mr. Fechter, which arrived from Paris in ninety-four pieces, fitting like the joints of a puzzle. Our author was fond of working in this chalet during the summer months; and in it, much of the material of his latest work was prepared.

In sad a.s.sociation with Gadshill Place, we must refer to the unexpected Death of Charles d.i.c.kens, which occurred here on the 9th of June 1870.

He had been feeling weary and fatigued for some days previous to this date, but had nevertheless continued to work with cheerfulness, writing in the chalet, in preparation of the sixth number of "Edwin Drood." On the 8th of June, whilst at dinner, he was suddenly attacked with apoplexy, and never spoke afterwards; and on the evening of the following day-with one rolling tear and one deep sigh-his gentle spirit soared beyond these earthly shadows,

"Into the Land of the Great Departed, Into the Silent Land."

An interval being allowed for refreshments at the Falstaff Inn, _a discretion_, we may resume the road onwards to the nearest station of HIGHAM-about a mile distant-whence the South-Eastern Railway may be taken for the homeward journey. At five miles' distance we reach Gravesend, which is situated at the foot of the hills, extending for some two miles on the south side of the Thames. This town is the boundary of the port of London, at which many outward and homeward bound vessels on foreign service receive or discharge their pa.s.sengers and freight. As we pa.s.s this station we may remember that in chapter 57 of "David Copperfield,"

Gravesend is referred to as the starting-point of Mr. Peggotty and his niece, emigrating to Australia, and accompanied by _Martha_, _Mrs.

Gummidge_, _and the Micawber family_. The parting with his friends David describes as follows:-

"We went over the side into our boat, and lay at a little distance to see the ship wafted on her course. It was then calm, radiant sunset.

She lay between us and the red light, and every taper line and spar was visible against the glow. A sight at once so beautiful, so mournful, and so hopeful, as the glorious ship lying still on the flushed water, with all the life on board her crowded at the bulwarks, and there cl.u.s.tering for a moment, bareheaded and silent, I never saw. Silent, only for a moment. As the sails rose to the wind, and the ship began to move, there broke from all the boats three resounding cheers, which those on board took up and echoed back, and which were echoed and re-echoed ... Surrounded by the rosy light ... they solemnly pa.s.sed away."

Continuing the homeward journey by South-Eastern Railway, the Rambler will arrive in due course at the station of GREENWICH, eighteen miles from Gravesend. Here alighting, a short walk eastward, on the south side of the line-through _London Street_, turning right by end of _Church Street_-will lead us to the entrance of Greenwich Park. This well-known place of popular resort was referred to by d.i.c.kens in his first contributions to the _Evening Chronicle_, 1835, which were afterwards collected under the name of "Sketches by Boz." The sketch is ent.i.tled "_Greenwich Fair_," and gives descriptions of the doings in the park at that festival, as holden aforetime in this locality-

"The princ.i.p.al amus.e.m.e.nt is to drag young ladies up the steep hill which leads to the Observatory, and then drag them down again at the very top of their speed, greatly to the derangement of their curls and bonnet-caps, and much to the edification of lookers-on from below."

From the Park entrance we may now proceed towards the river by _Church Street_, on the left hand of which, past _London Street_, stands the Church of St. Alphege, a handsome edifice in cla.s.sic style. The happy wedding of _Bella Wilfer_ and _John Rokesmith_, otherwise _Harmon_, here took place, in the presence of a "gruff and glum old pensioner" from the neighbouring hospital, with two wooden legs. We may also recall the circ.u.mstance of Mr. and Mrs. Boffin's attendance, that worthy couple being hid away near the church organ.

Following the route northward, we may soon reach _King William Street_, by the river side, in which is situated Quartermaine's Ship Tavern. This is the place where the "lovely woman" and her father once dined together on the occasion of their "innocent elopement." (See "Our Mutual Friend,"

chapter 8, Book 2.) It may be also remembered as the hotel at which was celebrated the wedding dinner of _Mr. and Mrs. Rokesmith_ aforesaid, "dear little Pa" being the honoured guest of that blissful opportunity.

We may here also recollect the dignified bearing of the head waiter-The Archbishop of Greenwich-"a solemn gentleman in black clothes and a white cravat, who looked much more like a clergyman than _the_ clergyman, and seemed to have mounted a great deal higher in the church."

Leaving GREENWICH, a short ride of twenty minutes (six miles), following the course of the river, will bring us to the CHARING CROSS TERMINUS, in central London.

RAMBLE VII Excursion to Canterbury and Dover

Route by London, Chatham and Dover Railway, _via_ Sittingbourne and Faversham to Canterbury; The Queen's Head Inn, "the little hotel"

patronised by the Micawbers-By Mercery Lane and Christ Church Gate to Cathedral Close for King's School, the Establishment at which David Copperfield was educated-Dr. Strong's House-The Fleur de Lys Hotel; Mr.

d.i.c.k's stopping-place at Canterbury-The George and Dragon Inn; the old London Coach Office-Palace Street and Church of St. Alphege; the scene of Dr. Strong's marriage to Miss Annie Markleham-No. 65 North Lane, the "'umble dwelling" of Uriah Heep, afterwards the residence of the Micawber Family-71 St. Dunstan Street; Mr. Wickfield's house, and Home of Agnes-Canterbury to Dover-Corner of Church and Castle Streets, Market Place; David's resting-place-Priory Hill, Stanley Mount; Miss Betsy Trotwood's Residence-"The King's Head"; Mr. Lorry, Lucie Manette, and Miss Pross-The Staplehurst Disaster-Postscript to "Our Mutual Friend."

The excursion proposed in Ramble VI. to Chatham, Rochester, Gadshill, etc. (see page 82), could be advantageously extended to include CANTERBURY and DOVER, for visiting the localities in these towns a.s.sociated with the history of David Copperfield.

Beyond Chatham the journey is continued on the LONDON, CHATHAM AND DOVER RAILWAY, by three minor stations to SITTINGBOURNE, formerly a favourite resting-place for pilgrims (as its name would seem to indicate) _en route_ for Canterbury; but the modern mode of travel only now necessitates a halt of twenty minutes. Pa.s.sing TEYNSHAM and FAVERSHAM, the train proceeds by the intermediate station of SELLING, to the fair old city of

CANTERBURY,

pleasantly situated on the banks of the Stour. Seat of the Primate of England, where, as Mr. Micawber writes, "the society may be described as a happy admixture of the agricultural and the clerical." A quaint and quiet cathedral town, redolent with fragrant memories of _Agnes Wickfield_, fairest type of English womanhood-her father, and friends.

Proceeding from the station towards the Cathedral, by CASTLE STREET, we reach the old Roman road of WATLING STREET (extending from Chester to Dover), at the south corner of which (right), and facing ST. MARGARET STREET, stands the "Queen's Head Inn." This is "the little hotel"

patronised by Mr. and Mrs. Micawber on the occasion of their first visit to Canterbury, as related in chapter 17 of "David Copperfield"-"Somebody turns up."

"It was a little inn where Mr. Micawber put up, and he occupied a little room in it, part.i.tioned off from the commercial room, and strongly flavoured with tobacco smoke. I think it was over the kitchen, because a warm greasy smell appeared to come up through the c.h.i.n.ks in the floor, and there was a flabby perspiration on the walls. I know it was near the bar, on account of the smell of spirits and jingling of gla.s.ses. Here, rec.u.mbent on a small sofa, underneath a picture of a race-horse, with her head close to the fire, and her feet pushing the mustard off the dumb-waiter at the other end of the room, was Mrs. Micawber, to whom Mr. Micawber entered first, saying, 'My dear, allow me to introduce to you a pupil of Dr. Strong's.'"

It will be remembered that the amiable lady thus referred to, here confidentially explained to David the reason of their visit to this part of the country-