Rambles in Dickens' Land Part 10

On the west side the Rambler pa.s.ses the precincts of Westminster Abbey, beneath whose "high embowed roof" repose the sacred ashes of the ill.u.s.trious dead. To this venerable fane-the especial resting-place of English literary genius-we will return after our concluding ramble to the birthplace of our greatest English novelist.

The onward road takes us past the HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, on the right, to PARLIAMENT STREET, leading to Whitehall and Charing Cross. At a short distance up this thoroughfare is Derby Street-the first turning on the right; on the north corner of which there stood-until 1899-an old public-house, "The Red Lion" (No. 48). This place may be specially noted as the house at which _young David Copperfield_ gave his "magnificent order" for a gla.s.s of the "Genuine Stunning," and where the landlord's wife gave him back the money and a kiss besides. This was an actual experience in the boyhood of d.i.c.kens, and is referred to in Mr. Forster's Biography, where the house is indicated as above. It is now being rebuilt and modernised.

Proceeding by Whitehall, and crossing to the opposite side of the street, we shortly arrive at The Horse Guards, and may take pa.s.sing observation of the OLD CLOCK-famed for its perfection of time-keeping-by whose warning note _Mark Tapley_ regulated the period of the interview next referred to. Pa.s.sing through the arched pa.s.sage beneath, we now attain the eastern side of St. James's Park. This locality will be remembered as the place of meeting between _Mary Graham_ and _Martin Chuzzlewit_, previous to his departure for America. As the young lady was escorted by Mark in the early morning from a City hotel, we may be certain that the interview must have taken place on this side of the Park, doubtless near the princ.i.p.al gate of the promenade facing the Horse Guards' entrance.

Leaving the Park northward, by _Spring Gardens_, we come into _c.o.c.kspur Street_, shortly leading (left) to PALL MALL. At the first corner of the latter stands Her Majesty's Theatre. At this establishment, as reconstructed during the early years of the century, _Mrs. Nickleby_ attended, by special invitation of _Sir Mulberry Hawk_, Messrs. Pyke and Pluck a.s.sisting on that notable occasion, when, by a prearranged coincidence, Kate and the Wit.i.tterlys occupied the adjoining box.-_Vide_ "Nicholas Nickleby," chapter 27.

This Opera House was burnt down 1789, and rebuilt the following year. It was remodelled 1818, and again destroyed by fire, December 6, 1867.

Being a second time rebuilt, it was, for some seasons, closed since 1875.

The present theatre is of recent and splendid erection.

At this central position, from which we may readily take departure for any point in London, the present Ramble will terminate. To all those needing reparation of tissue, a visit to Epitaux's Restaurant, near the Haymarket Theatre, will be satisfactory.

RAMBLE VI _Excursion to Chatham_, _Rochester_, _and Gadshill_

Emmanuel Church; Mr. Wemmick's Wedding-Dulwich; Mr. Pickwick's Retirement-Dulwich Church; Marriage of Snodgra.s.s and Emily Wardle-Cobham-"The Leather Bottle;" Tracy Tupman's Retreat-Mr. Pickwick's Discovery-Chatham-Railway Street; Rome Lane Elementary School-The Brook; Residence of the d.i.c.kens Family-Clover Lane Academy; Rev. William Giles, Schoolmaster-Fort Pitt; Dr. Slammer's Duelling-Ground; the Recreation Ground of Chatham-Star Hill; Old Rochester Theatre; Mr. Jingle's Engagement-Rochester; Eastgate House; The Nuns' House-Mr. Sapsea's Residence-Restoration House; Residence of Miss Havisham, "Satis House"-[Joe Gargery's Forge; Parish of Cooling]-The Monk's Vineyard-Minor Canon Row-Rochester Cathedral; The Crypts-Durdles-The Cathedral Tower-St.

Nicholas Church-The College Gate; John Jasper's Lodging-Watts's Charity; "The Seven Poor Travellers"-[Watts's Almshouses]-Miss Adelaide Procter-The Bull Hotel; the Ball-room-The Crown Hotel; "The Crozier"-The Esplanade-Rochester Bridge; Richard Doubled.i.c.k-Gadshill Place; Residence of d.i.c.kens-Gravesend; Embarkation of Mr. Peggotty and friends-Greenwich Park; "Sketches by Boz"-Church of St. Alphege; Bella Wilfer's Marriage-Quartermaine's Ship Tavern; "An Innocent Elopement;" The Rokesmith Wedding Dinner.

Starting from the _Holborn Viaduct_ or _Ludgate Hill Station_ of the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, we cross the Thames and proceed _en route_ for the Kentish uplands. At ten minutes' distance from the London terminus, pa.s.sing the Elephant and Castle and Walworth Road Stations, we may observe (on the left) the back of Emmanuel Church, as the train slackens speed for _Camberwell_. This may be noted as the place where _Mr. Wemmick_ and _Miss Skiffins_ were united in the bonds of matrimony; so we may here suitably recall the scene narrated in "Great Expectations," and the informal and unexpected procedure adopted by Mr.

W. on that occasion-

"We went towards Camberwell Green, and when we were thereabouts, Wemmick said suddenly, 'Halloa! Here's a church!' There was nothing very surprising in that; but again I was rather surprised when he said, as if he were animated by a brilliant idea, 'Let's go in!' We went in and looked all round. In the meantime Wemmick was diving into his coat pockets, and getting something out of paper there.

'Halloa!' said he. 'Here's a couple of pairs of gloves! Let's put 'em on!' As the gloves were white kid gloves, I now began to have my strong suspicions. They were strengthened into certainty, when I beheld the Aged enter at a side door, escorting a lady. 'Halloa!'

said Wemmick. 'Here's Miss Skiffins! Let's have a wedding!' ...

True to his notion of seeming to do it all without preparation, I heard Wemmick say to himself, as he took something out of his waistcoat pocket before the service began, 'Halloa! Here's a ring!'

... 'Now, Mr. Pip,' said Wemmick triumphantly, as we came out, 'let me ask you whether anybody would suppose this to be a wedding party.'"

The route being continued past _Herne Hill Station_, the train arrives at Dulwich, which we may recollect _en pa.s.sant_ as being the locality of Mr.

Pickwick's retirement, before the days of railway locomotion. The house-a white, comfortable-looking residence-stands (left) near the station, as we approach, corresponding in style and position with its Pickwickian description. _Mr. Tupman_, too, may have been met with in olden time, walking in the public promenades or loitering in the Dulwich Picture Gallery-"with a youthful and jaunty air"-still in the enjoyment of single blessedness, and the cynosure of the numerous elderly ladies of the neighbourhood.

_Mr. Snodgra.s.s_ and _Emily Wardle_, as we all know, were married at DULWICH CHURCH, in this vicinity; the wedding guests-including "the poor relations, who got there somehow"-a.s.sembling at Mr. Pickwick's new house on that interesting occasion; and we may remember the general verdict then unanimously given as to the elegance, comfort, and suitability of our old friend's suburban retreat-

"Nothing was to be heard but congratulations and commendations.

Everything was so beautiful! The lawn in front, the garden behind, the miniature conservatory, the dining-room, the drawing-room, the bedrooms, the smoking-room; and, above all, the study-with its pictures and easy chairs, and odd cabinets and queer tables, and nooks out of number, with a large cheerful window opening upon a pleasant lawn, and commanding a pretty landscape, just dotted here and there with little houses, almost hidden by the trees."

Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Weller and family-retainers in the Pickwickian establishment-also flourished aforetime in these arcadian groves, in faithful attendance on their ill.u.s.trious patron.

The journey being resumed, we pa.s.s onwards (Crystal Palace on the right side of the railway) _via Penge_ and _Bromley_, and several country towns beyond-a pleasant ride of about an hour's duration-arriving in due course at Sole Street Station (30 miles from London), about a mile south-west from the village of Cobham. A pleasant walk of twenty minutes on the high road will lead the wayfarer through Owlet to the pretty parish aforesaid; the rural retreat-famous in the annals of Pickwickian history-selected by _Mr. Tracy Tupman_ for his retirement from the world, after his disappointment at the hands of Miss Rachael Wardle.

[Picture: The "Leather Bottle", Cobham]

"The Leather Bottle Inn"-where he was found at dinner by his anxious friends-is described as "a clean and commodious village ale-house," and still maintains its favourable repute. It stands opposite the church at Cobham-

"At Muggleton they procured a conveyance to Rochester. By the time they reached the last-named place, the violence of their grief had sufficiently abated to admit of their making a very excellent early dinner; and having procured the necessary information relative to the road, the three friends set forward again in the afternoon to walk to Cobham.

"A delightful walk it was; for it was a pleasant afternoon in June, and their way lay through a deep and shady wood, cooled by the light wind which gently rustled the thick foliage, and enlivened by the songs of the birds that perched upon the boughs. The ivy and the moss crept in thick cl.u.s.ters over the old trees, and the soft green turf overspread the ground like a silken mat. They emerged upon an open park, with an ancient hall, displaying the quaint and picturesque architecture of Elizabeth's time. Long vistas of stately oaks and elm-trees appeared on every side; large herds of deer were cropping the fresh gra.s.s; and occasionally a startled hare scoured along the ground with the speed of the shadows thrown by the light clouds which swept across a sunny landscape like a pa.s.sing breath of summer. 'If this,' said Mr. Pickwick, looking about him, 'if this were the place to which all who are troubled with our friend's complaint came, I fancy their old attachment to this world would very soon return.'

"'I think so too,' said Mr. Winkle.

"'And really,' added Mr. Pickwick, after half-an-hour's walking had brought them to the village, 'really, for a misanthrope's choice, this is one of the prettiest and most desirable places of residence I ever met with.'

"In this opinion also both Mr. Winkle and Mr. Snodgra.s.s expressed their concurrence; and having been directed to the Leather Bottle, a clean and commodious village ale-house, the three travellers entered, and at once inquired for a gentleman of the name of Tupman. The three friends entered a long, low-roofed room, furnished with a large number of high-backed leather-cushioned chairs, of fantastic shapes, and embellished with a great variety of old portraits. At the upper end of the room was a table, with a white cloth upon it, well covered with a roast fowl, bacon, ale, and et ceteras; and at the table sat Mr. Tupman, looking as unlike a man who had taken his leave of the world as possible."

Resting here awhile, we may recall the "immortal discovery" made by Mr.

Pickwick, "which has been the pride and boast of his friends and the envy of every antiquarian in this or any other country"-that famous stone found by the chairman of the Pickwick Club himself; "partially buried in the ground in front of a cottage door," in this same village of Cobham, on which "the following fragment of an inscription was clearly to be deciphered":-

[Picture: Cobham Inscription]

Full particulars are duly recorded in "The Pickwick Papers," chapter 11.

We may also remember the celebrated controversy in scientific and erudite circles, to which this remarkable stone gave rise; Mr. Pickwick being "elected an honorary member of seventeen native and foreign societies for the discovery."

The journey being resumed from Sole Street, we travel _via Strood_, ten miles, to the important station of

CHATHAM.

Mr. Pickwick's description (taken from his note-book sixty years since) is a fairly correct view of the general appearance of Chatham at present:-

"The princ.i.p.al productions of these towns appear to be soldiers, sailors, Jews, chalk, shrimps, officers, and dockyardmen. The commodities chiefly exposed for sale in the public streets are marine stores, hard-bake, apples, flat-fish, and oysters. The streets present a lively and animated appearance, occasioned chiefly by the conviviality of the military."

In this city five years of d.i.c.kens's boyhood were pa.s.sed. Mr. d.i.c.kens, senior, was appointed in 1816 to a clerkship at the Naval Pay Office, in connection with the Royal Dockyard, and the d.i.c.kens family here resided till little Charles was nine years of age.

On arrival at the Chatham Station, we may enter the town on the right from the railway exit (north side of the line), shortly pa.s.sing under an archway into Railway Street-formerly Rome Lane-in which was once situated the elementary school where the boy first attended, with his sister f.a.n.n.y. Revisiting Chatham in after years, d.i.c.kens found that it had been pulled down

"Ages before, but out of the distance of the ages, arose, nevertheless, a not dim impression that it had been over a dyer's shop; that he went up steps to it; that he had frequently grazed his knees in doing so; and that in trying to sc.r.a.pe the mud off a very unsteady little shoe, he generally got his leg over the sc.r.a.per."

At the upper end of Railway Street we proceed (right) by the _High Street_, and at a short distance (left) by _Fair __Row_ to the _Brook_.

Turning to the left, we shall find, standing immediately beyond the corner, on the west side, the old Residence of the d.i.c.kens Family, No.

18, next door to _Providence Chapel_. The house is a modest-looking dwelling of three storeys, with white-washed plaster front as in former days, six steps leading up to the front door, and a small garden before and behind. The chapel previously referred to has been, in more recent years, used for meetings of the Salvation Army, since becoming a clothing factory. During the residence of the family at Chatham, the minister of this place of worship was a _Mr. William Giles_, who was also the schoolmaster of Clover Lane Academy. For the last two years of Charles's Chatham experience he was placed under the educational supervision of this young Baptist minister, whose influence seems to have been favourable to the development of his pupil's youthful talents.

Regaining the High Street by _Fair Row_, and turning to the left for a short distance onwards, we reach, on the right hand of the street, past the Mitre Hotel, Clover Street, on the south side of which (at the corner of Richard Street) the Academy, with its playground behind, may still be seen. Forster says:-

"Charles had himself a not ungrateful sense in after years, that this first of his masters, in his little-cared-for childhood, had p.r.o.nounced him to be a boy of capacity; and when, about half-way through the publication of Pickwick, his old teacher sent a silver snuff-box with admiring inscription to 'the inimitable Boz,' it reminded him of praise far more precious obtained by him at his first year's examination in the Clover Lane Academy."

Coming through Clover Street, and turning (right) into the _New Road_, we shortly regain the neighbourhood of Chatham Station, on the south side of which a road in the westward direction leads to Fort Pitt, now the Chatham Military Hospital. Pickwickians will remember that Fort Pitt was indicated by Lieutenant Tappleton, the friend of the choleric _Doctor __Slammer_, as being in the vicinity of a field where the quarrel between the doctor and Mr. Winkle could be adjusted. This old field, and the contiguous land surrounding the Fort, now form The Recreation Ground of the City. Visitors may hence obtain an interesting and comprehensive view of the town and neighbourhood. We are, doubtless, all familiar with the happy termination of the affair of honour above referred to; the unworthy Jingle being at the bottom of the mischief. Full particulars of the dilemma may be found in chapter 2 of "The Pickwick Papers."

Returning to the New Road, the Rambler, pa.s.sing ST. BARTHOLOMEW'S HOSPITAL (founded in the eleventh century) on the right, may proceed by _Star Hill_, in the outskirts of Rochester. On the south side (left) of the descent there may be noted _en pa.s.sant_ the new building of the ROCHESTER CONSERVATIVE CLUB, which stands on the site of The Old Theatre.

Here the versatile Mr. Jingle and his melancholic friend, "elegantly designated Dismal Jemmy," were engaged to perform "in the piece that the Officers of the Fifty-second" got up, when Mr. Pickwick commenced his travels, May 1827.

The theatre was demolished December 1884.

Continuing the route, we soon arrive at the central street of the old City of