Picturesque Quebec : a sequel to Quebec past and present Part 38

Col. Henry Caldwell, for many years Receiver General of the Province, by royal appointment, and member of the Legislative Council. He came first to Canada in 1759, says Knox, [261] as a.s.sistant Quartermaster General to Wolfe, under whom he served. When appointed Receiver General, the salary attached to that high office [262] was 400 per annum, with the understanding that he might _account_ at his convenience, he never accounted at all, probably as it was anything but _convenient_ to do so, having followed the traditional policy of high officials under French rule, and speculated largely in milk, &c. The fault was more the consequences of the system than that of the individual, and had his ventures turned out well, no doubt the high-minded Colonel and Receiver General would have made matters right before dying. In 1801 Col. Caldwell was returned member for Dorchester, where he owned the rich Seigniory of Lauzon, and most extensive mill at the Etchemin river, the same subsequently owned by J. Thomson, Esq., and now by Hy. Atkinson, Esq. The colonel was re-elected by the same const.i.tuency in 1805, and again in 1809, lived in splendor at Belmont, as a polished gentleman of that age knew how to live, and died there in 1810. Belmont is situated on the St.

Foye road, on its north side, at the end of a long avenue of trees, distant three miles from Quebec. The original mansion, which was burnt down in 1798, was rebuilt by the Colonel in 1800 on plans furnished by an Engineer Officer of the name of Brabazon. It stood in the garden between the present house and main or St. Foye road. The cellar forms the s.p.a.cious root house, at present in the garden. Col Caldwell's exquisite entertainments soon drew around his table some of the best men of Quebec, of the time, such as the gallant Gen. Brock, John Colt man, William Coltman, the Hales, Foy, Haldimand, Dr. Beeby of Powell Place, J. Lester, John Blackwood. In 1810 Mr. John Caldwell, son of the Colonel, accepted the succession with its liabilities, not then known. He however made the Lauzon manor his residence in summer, and was also appointed Receiver General. In 1817 Belmont was sold to the Hon. J. Irvine, M.P.P., the grandfather of the present member for Megantic, Hon. George J. Irvine.

Hon. Mr. Irvine resided there until 1833. The beautiful row of trees which line the house avenue and other embellishments, are due to his good taste.

In 1838 the property reverted to the late Sir Henry Caldwell, the son of Sir John Caldwell, who in 1827, had inherited the t.i.tle by the death of an Irish relative, Sir James Caldwell, the third Baronet (who was made a Count of Milan by the Empress Maria Theresa, descended by his mothers'

side from the 20th Lord Kerry). John Caldwell of Lauzon, having become Sir John Caldwell, _menait un grain train_, as the old peasants of Etchemin repeat to this day. His house, stud and amus.e.m.e.nts were those of a baron of old, and of a hospitable Irish gentleman, spreading money and progress over the length and breadth of the land. At his death, which happened at Boston in 1842, the insignificant Etchemin settlement, through his efforts, had materially increased in wealth, size and population. There was, however, at his demise, an _error_ in his Government balance sheet of 100,000 on the wrong side!

Belmont lines the St. Foye heights, in a most picturesque situation. The view from the east and north-western windows is magnificently grand; probably one might count more than a dozen church spires glittering in the distance--peeping out of every happy village which dots the base of the blue mountains to the north. In 1854 this fine property was purchased by J. W. Duns...o...b.. Esq., Collector of Customs, Quebec, who resided there several years, and sold the garden for a cemetery to the Roman Catholic Church authorities of Quebec, reserving 400 acres for himself. The old house, within a few years, was purchased by Mr. Wakeham, the late manager of the Beauport Asylum. His successful treatment of diseases of the mind induced him to open, at this healthy and secluded spot, under the name of the "Belmont Retreat," a private _Maison de Sante_, where, wealthy patients are treated with that delicate care which they could not expect in a crowded asylum. The same success has attended Mr. Wakeham's enterprise at Belmont which crowned it at Beauport.

_AN IRISH EDUCATION IN THE OLDEN TIMES._

Among the old stories handed down in Canadian homes

"In the long nights of winter, When the cold north winds blow,"

of the merry gatherings and copious feasts of other days, one is told of a memorable entertainment at Belmont, given a crowd of friends.

Some a.s.sert it was the Belmont anniversary dinner of the battle of Waterloo and bring in of course Blucher, Hougomont! Belle-Alliance and what not. It is, however, more generally believed among the aged, judging from the copious libations and kindly toasts drank, that it partook of a more intimate character and was merely a _fete de famille_, to commemorate the safe return of sir John Caldwell's only son from Ireland, where he had just completed his collegiate course at Dublin, be that as it may, it unquestionably was meant to solemnise an important family or national event.

As was wont, in those hospitable times, the "landlord's flowing bowl,"

alas! had been emptied too often. Some of the "Barons of the round table" were in fact preparing for a timely retreat, before the city gates should be closed, [263] the genial host soon put a stop to such a treasonable practice, exclaiming that the sentry would let them pa.s.s at any hour, so they need only follow the Commandant, their fellow guest, who of course had the countersign, closing his well timed remarks, by raising his voice and proclaiming in an authoritative tone "no heel taps here," the stately banquet hall re-echoed with cheers "a b.u.mper, a b.u.mper," resounded on all sides, "to the future Sir Harry, who has just completed his Irish education." The future Sir Harry was soon on his legs, and in a voice mellow with old port, youth and fun, responded "Friends, fellow countrymen, brothers, (this last expression was challenged as he was an only son) I am indeed proud of my Dublin education, we have something, however better before us than a disquisition on the excellence of the various systems of continental courses, to be brief, I now challenge any here present to meet me on the cla.s.sics, astronomy, the cubic root or gla.s.s to gla.s.s, you have your choice." "Gla.s.s to gla.s.s," they one and all replied. Toasts, songs, healths of every member of the Royal family, were gone through with amazing zest as time advanced towards the small hours of the morning, the guests, one by one disappeared from the banqueting room, some, alas! under the mahogany, more with the genial commander of the garrison, whilst the stalwart Irish student, still undaunted and meeting the foe, gla.s.s to gla.s.s--a veritable giant, fresher as he went on.

Old Sir John, a well seasoned diner-out, at last found himself solitary at his end of the table, whilst his son adorned the other end defiantly.

Looking round in dismay and fearing, if he continued the healths, to be unequal to cope with such an intrepid Dublin student, he the last gave up, flinging himself majestically back in his chair, exclaiming "D----n your Irish education!"

_HOLLAND FARM._

This estate, which formerly comprised two hundred acres of ground, extending from the brow of the St. Foye heights to St Michael's Chapel on the Samoa or St. Lewis road, possesses considerable interest for the student of Canadian history, both under French and English rule. The original dwelling, a long high-peaked French structure, stood on an eminence closer to the St. Foye road than does the present house. It was built about the year 1740, by a rich Lower Town merchant, Monsieur Jean Tache [264] who resided there after his marriage in 1742 with Mademoiselle Marie Anne Jolliet de Mingan, grand-daughter to the celebrated discoverer of the Mississippi, Louis Jolliet. Monsieur Jean Tache was also _Syndic des Marchands_, member of the Supreme Council of Quebec, and ancestor to Sir. E. P. Tache. He at one time owned several vessels, but his floating wealth having, during the war of the conquest, become the prize of English cruisers, the St. Peter street Nabob of 1740, as it has since happened to some of his successors in that _romantic_ neighbourhood, --lost his money. Loss of fortune did not, however, imply loss of honour, as old memoirs of that day describe him, "Homme integre et d'esprit." He had been selected, in the last year of French rule, to go and lay at the foot of the French Throne the grievances of the Canadians. About this time, the St. Foye road was becoming a fashionable resort, _Hawkin's Picture of Quebec_ calls it "The favorite drive of the Canadian Belle before the conquest." This is an interesting period in colonial life, but imperfectly known,--nor will a pa.s.sage from Jeffery, an old and valued English writer, ill.u.s.trative of men, manners and amus.e.m.e.nts in the Colony, when it pa.s.sed over to the English monarch, be out of place:--

"The number of inhabitants being considerably increased, they pa.s.s their time very agreeably. The Governor General, with his household; several of the _n.o.blesse_ of exceeding good families; the officers of the army, who in France are all gentlemen; the Intendant, with a Supreme Council, and the inferior magistrates; the Commissary of the Marine; the Grand Provost; the Grand Hunter; the Grand Master of the Woods and Forests, who has the most extensive jurisdiction in the world; rich merchants, or such as live as if they were so; the bishops and a numerous Seminary; two colleges of Recollets, as many of Jesuits; with three Nunneries; amongst all those yon are at no loss to find agreeable company and the most entertaining conversation. Add to this the diversions of the place, such as the a.s.semblies at the Lady Governess's and Lady Intendant's; parties at cards, or of pleasure, such as in the winter on the ice, in sledges, or in skating; and in the summer in chaises or canoes; also hunting, which it is impossible not to be fond of in a country abounding with plenty of game of all kinds.

"It is remarked of the Canadians that their conversation is enlivened by an air of freedom which is natural and peculiar to them, and that they speak the French in the greatest purity and without the least false accent. There are few rich people in that Colony, though they all live well, are extremely generous and hospitable, keep very good tables, and love to dress very finely.... The Canadians have carried the love of arms, and glory, so natural to their mother country, along with them.... War is not only welcome to them but coveted with extreme ardor." [265]

During the fall of 1775, the old mansion sheltered Brigadier Richard Montgomery, [266] the leader of the American forlorn hope, who fell on the 31st December of that year, at Pres-de-Ville, Champlain street, fighting against those same British whom it had previously been his pride to lead to victory. About the year 1780, we find this residence tenanted by a worthy British officer, who had been a great favourite with the hero of the Plains of Abraham. Major Samuel Holland had fought bravely that day under General Wolfe, and stood, it is said, after the battle, close by the expiring warrior. His dwelling took the name of Holland House: he added to it, a cupola, which served in lieu of a _prospect tower_, wherefrom could be had a most extensive view of the surrounding country. [267] The important appointment of Surveyor General of the Province, which was bestowed on Major Holland, together with his social qualities, abilities and education, soon gathered round him the _elite_ of the English Society in Quebec at that time. Amongst the distinguished guests who frequented Holland House in 1791, we find Edward, afterwards Duke of Kent.

The numerous letters still extant addressed by His Royal Highness from Kensington Palace, as late as 1814, to the many warm friends he had left on the banks of the St. Lawrence, contain pleasant reminiscences of his sojourn amongst his royal father's Canadian lieges. Amongst other frequenters of Holland House, may also be noted a handsome stranger, who after attending--the gayest of the gay--the Quebec Chateau b.a.l.l.s, Regimental mess dinners, Barons' Club, tandem drives, as the male friend of one of the young Hollands was, to the amazement of all, convicted at a mess dinner of being a lady [268] in disguise. A _fracas_ of course ensued. The lady-like guest soon vamosed to England, where _he_ became the lawful spouse of the Hon. Mr. C----, the brother to Lord F----d. One remnant of the Hollands long endured; the old fir tree on that portion of the property purchased by James Creighton, farmer. Holland tree was still sacred to the memory of the five slumberers, who have reposed for more than a century beneath its h.o.a.ry branches. Nor has the recollection of the "fatal duel" faded away. Holland farm, for many years, belonged to Mr.

Wilson of the Customs Department, Quebec, in 1843 it pa.s.sed by purchase to Judge George Okill Stuart, of Quebec; Mr. Stuart improved the place, removed the old house and built a handsome new one on a rising ground in rear, which he occupied for several summers. It again became renowned for gaiety and festivity when subsequently owned by Robert Ca.s.sels, Esquire, for many years Manager of the Bank of British North America at Quebec.

Genl. Danl. Lysons had leased it in 1862, for his residence, when the unexpected vote of the House of a.s.sembly on the Militia Bill broke through his arrangements. Holland House is still the property of Mr. Ca.s.sels.

_THE HOLLAND TREE._

(BY THE AUTHOR OF "MAPLE LEAVES")

"Woodman spare that tree."

It has often been noticed that one of the chief glories of Quebec consisted in being surrounded on all sides by smiling country seats, which in the summer season, as it were, encircle the brow of the old city like a chaplet of flowers; those who, on a sunny June morning, have wandered through the shady groves of Spencer Wood, Woodfield, Marchmont, Benmore, Kilmarnock, Kirk Ella, Hamwood, Beauvoir, Clermont, and fifty other old places, rendered vocal by the voices of birds, and with the sparkling waters of the great river or the winding St. Charles at their feet, are not likely to gainsay this statement.

Amongst these beautiful rural retreats few are better known than Holland Farm, in 1780 the family mansion of Surveyor-General Holland, one of Wolfe's favourite engineer officers. During the fall of 1775 it had been the headquarters of Brig. General Montgomery, who chose it as his residence during the siege of Quebec, whilst his colleague, Col.

Benedict Arnold, was stationed with his New Englanders at the house southeast of Scott's Bridge, on the Little River road, for many years the homestead of Mr. Langlois. This fine property, running back as far as Mount Hermon Cemetery, and extending from the St. Louis or Grand Allee road, opposite Spencer Wood, down to the St. Foye road, which it crosses, is bounded to the north by the _cime du cap_, or St. Foye heights. For those who may be curious to know its original extent to an eighth of an inch, I shall quote from Major Holland's t.i.tle-deed, wherein it is stated to comprise "in superficies, French measure, two hundred and six arpents, one perch, seven feet eight inches, and _four eighths of an inch_," from which description one would infer the Major had surveyed his domain with great minuteness, or that he must have been rather a stickler for territorial rights. What would his shades now think could they be made cognizant of the fact that that very chateau garden, [269] which he possessed and bequeathed to his sons in the year 1800, which had been taken possession of for military purposes by the Imperial authorities, is held by them to this day?

Major Samuel Holland had distinguished himself as an officer under General Wolfe, on the Plains of Abraham, lived at Holland House [270]

many years, as was customary in those days, in affluence, and at last paid the common debt to nature. He had been employed in Prince Edward Island and Western Canada on public surveys.

The Major, after having provided for his wife, Mary Josette Rolet, bequeathed his property to Frederick Braham, John Frederick, Charlotte, Susan and George Holland, [271] his children. In 1817, Frederick Braham Holland, who at that time was an ordnance storekeeper at Prince Edward Island, sold his share of the farm to the late William Wilson, of the Customs. Ten years later, John Frederick and Charlotte Holland also disposed of their interest in this land to Mr.

Wilson, who subsequently, having acquired the rights of another heir, viz., in 1835, remained proprietor of Holland Farm until 1843, when the property by purchase pa.s.sed over to Judge Geo. Okill Stuart, of this city. Mr. Stuart built on it a handsome mansion now known as Holland House, which he subsequently sold to Rob. Ca.s.sells, Esq., of Quebec, late manager of the Bank of British North America.

Holland Farm has been gradually dismembered: Coulonge Cottage, at the outlet of the Gomin Road, [272] is built on Holland farm. A successful gold digger by the name of Sinjohn purchased in the year 1862 a large tract of the farm fronting the St. Louis road with Thornhill as its north eastern and Mr. Stuart's new road as its south-western boundary.

His cottage is shaded by the Thornhill Grove, with a garden and lawn and adjoins a level pasturage entirely denuded of shrubs and forest trees. [273] To a person looking from the main gate, at Spencer Wood in the direction of the south gable of Holland House, exactly in a straight line, no object intervenes except a fir tree which detaches itself on the horizon, conspicuous from afar over the plantation which fronts the St. Foye road. That tree is the Holland Tree. Well! what about the Holland Tree? What! you a Quebecer and not to know about the Holland Tree? the duel and the slumberers who have reposed for so many years under its shade!

Oh! but suppose I am not a Quebecer. Tell me about the Holland Tree.

Well, walk down from the St. Louis road along Mr. Stuart's new road and we shall see first how the rest of the 'slumberers' has been respected. Hear the words which filial affection dictated to Frederick Braham, John Frederick and Charlotte Holland, when on the 14th July 1827, they executed a deed [274] in favor of Wm. Wilson conveying their interest in their father's estate.

"Provided always and these presents as well as the foregoing deed of sale and conveyance are so made and executed by the said Robert Holland acting as aforesaid (as attorney of the heirs Holland) upon and subject to the _express_ charge and _condition_ that is to say, that the said William Wilson his heirs and a.s.signs shall forever hold sacred and inviolable the small circular s.p.a.ce of ground on the said tract or piece of land and premises enclosed with a stone wall and wherein the remains of the late Samuel Holland, Esquire, father of the said vendors and of his son the late Samuel Holland jr., Esq., are interred, and shall and will allow tree ingress and egress at all times to the relatives and friends of the family of the said Samuel Holland for the purpose of viewing the state and condition of the said s.p.a.ce of ground and making or causing to be made such repairs to the wall enclosing the same or otherwise providing for the protection of the said remains as they shall see fit."

Not many years back the 'small circular s.p.a.ce' which Mr. Wilson bound himself to hold sacred and inviolable and which contained two neat marble slabs with the names of Messrs. Holland, senior and junior, and other members of the family engraved on them, was inclosed within a substantial stone wall to which access was had through an iron gate, the walls were covered with inscriptions and with the initials of those who had visited a spot to which the fatal issue of a deadly encounter lent all the interest of a romance. Nothing now is visible except the foundation, which is still distinct: the monument stones have disappeared, the wall has been razed to the ground, some modern Vandal or a descendant of the Ostrogoths [275] (for amongst all civilized nations, the repose of the dead is sacred) has laid violent hands on them! When Mr. Wilson sold Holland farm in 1843 he made no stipulation about the graves of the Hollands, he took no care that what he had agreed to hold inviolable should continue to be so held.

The tragical occurrence connected with the Holland Tree is much out of the ordinary run of events, it seems very like the plot of a sensation novel--a dark tale redolent with love, jealousy and revenge. Two men stood, some sixty years ago, in mortal combat, not under the Holland Tree, as it has generally been believed but near Windmill Point, Point St Charles, at Montreal, one of them Ensign Samuel Holland, of the 60th Regiment, the other was Capt Shoedde. The encounter, it was expected would be a deadly one in those duelling days blood alone could wipe out an insult. Old Major Holland, on bidding adieu to his son is reported to have said, "Samuel, my boy, here are weapons which my loved friend General Wolfe, presented me on the day of his death.

Use them, to keep the old family name without stain." Of this memorable affair W. H. Henderson, Esq., of Hemison, has kindly furnished me with the following details.

'The duel originated from some, it was considered, unjustifiable suspicions on the part of Capt. Shoedde of his (Holland's) intimacy with Mrs. Shoedde so palpably unfounded that young Holland applied to his father as to whether in honour he was bound to take notice of the matter. The Major replied by forwarding by post his pistols. Ensign Holland was mortally wounded at the first shot, but in his agony rose on his knees and levelled his pistol, aiming for Capt. Shoedde's heart, who received the ball in his arm laid over his breast.'

Mr. Holland was conveyed to the Merchants Coffee House, in the small lane, near the river side, called Capital street, where he expired in great pain. The battalion in which this gentleman served was at that time, commanded by Major Patrick Murray, a relative of the British General of Quebec fame, with whom I became very intimate in the years 1808 and 1809. Major Murray's account of the duel agreed with the general report prevalent in 1799 in Montreal. Murray thought that the challenge had been given by young Holland and not by Shoedde. Murray subsequently married sold his commission, and purchased the seignory of Argenteuil. At that time Sir George Prevost was also a Major In the 60th Regiment of 1790, whilst Murray's commission dated of 1784. Sir George gave Murray in 1812 a colonel's commission in the militia, who raised the corps of lawyers in Montreal known, as styled by the humorous old man, "as The Devil s Own."

_A SCANDAL OF THE LAST CENTURY._

One of the young Hollands had also been a party to a _scandalum magnum_, which created much gossip amongst our grandfathers, about the time H.R.H the Duke of Kent was at Quebec.

At a regimental mess dinner a handsome young fellow, having, in these days of hard swearing and hard drinking, exceeded in wine, was convicted of being a lady in disguise, attending as the guest of young Holland, and whose s.e.x was unknown to young Holland.

This lady, whom all Quebec knew as Mr. Nesbitt, turned out to be a Miss Neville, left for England, and was eventually married to Sir J.

C---, brother of Lord F----, a British n.o.bleman.

One of the Nestors of the present generation, Col. J. Sewell, has related to me the circ.u.mstances as he heard them in his youth from the lips of a man of veracity and honour--Hon. W. Smith, son of Chief Justice Smith.

Here are his own words:--"Hon. Mr. Smith told me that Mr. Nesbitt, _alias_ Miss Neville, was dining at a mess dinner of the 24th Grenadiers at the Jesuits' Barracks, upper Town market place--Having sacrificed too freely to the rosy G.o.d, an officer of the 24th, Mr.

Broadstreet, I think, helped him to the balcony ... when having to lean on his supporter, Mr. Broadstreet became confident Nesbitt was a girl in disguise. Nesbitt drove out after dinner to Holland House and Broadstreet told the joke all round. Nesbitt hearing of it, sent him, next day, a challenge for originating such a report.

Mr. Broadstreet, not knowing how to act, applied to one of his superior officers--Capt. Doyle (subsequently Genl. Doyle, who married at Quebec, a Miss Smith), for advice, saying: "How can I fight a girl?" to which Capt. Doyle rejoined, "I will act as your second. If Nesbitt is a girl, you shall not fight him, and I engage to prove this fact." He then drove out to Holland House, and found the gay Lothario Nesbitt flirting with the young ladies. He observed him attentively, and having tried an experiment, calculated to throw light on the mysterious foreigner, he went to complain direct to the Governor and Commander in Chief; Lord Dorchester, who, on hearing the perplexity caused by Mr. Nesbitt, sent for Dr. Longmore, the military physician, and ordered him to investigate of what s.e.x Nesbitt might be.

Mr. Nesbitt stormed--refused to submit--vowed he would go direct to England and make a formal complaint of the indignity with which he was threatened.

Hon. Jonathan Sewell,--later on Chief Justice, by persuasion, succeeded in pouring oil on the troubled waters. Nesbitt confessed, and Quebec was minus of a very handsome but beardless youngster, and the English Court journals soon made mention of a fashionable marriage in high life.

_HAMWOOD._

How sweet it is, when mother Fancy rocks The wayward brain, to saunter through a wood An old place, full of many a lovely brood, Tall trees, green arbours, and ground-flowers in flocks And wild rose tiptoe upon hawthorn stocks, --_Wordsworth_.