Picturesque Quebec : a sequel to Quebec past and present Part 24

Opposite looms out the long tea-caddy-looking building, built by the Sandfield Macdonald Government in 1862,--the Volunteer Drill Shed. Its length, if not its beauty, attracts notice. "Ferguson's house," next it, noted by Professor Silliman in his "_Tour between Hartford and Quebec in 1819_," is now difficult to recognize; its present owner, A. Joseph, Esq., has added so much to its size. This antiquated dwelling certainly does not belong to a new dispensation. Another land-mark of the past deserves notice--the ex-Commander of the Forces' lofty quarters; from its angular eaves and forlorn aspect it generally went by the name of "Bleak House." I cannot say whether the place was ever haunted, but it ought to have been. [149] On the summit of the plateau, formerly known as _b.u.t.tes- a-Nepveu_, and facing Mr. John Roche's stately mansion, Hon. P. Garneau and M. Bilodeau have constructed handsome terraces of cut-stone dwellings.

We are now in the _Grande Allee_--the forest avenue, which two hundred years ago led to Sillery Wood. On turning and looking back as you approach Bleak House, you have an excellent view of the Citadel, and of the old French works which extend beyond it, to the extremity of the Cape, overlooking _l'Anse de Meres_. A little beyond Bleak-House, at the top of what is generally known as Perrault's Hill, stands the Perrault [150]

homestead, dating back to 1820, _l'Asyle Champetre_--now tastefully renovated and owned by Henry Dinning, Esq. The roof and facade of a _Chalet Suisse_ would much enhance its appearance. The adjoining range of heights, occupied by the Martello Towers, the Garneau and Bilodeau Terraces, &c., were called the _b.u.t.tes-a-Nepveu_, after one of their first French owners. "It was here that Murray took his stand on the morning of April 28th, 1760, to resist the advance of Levis, and here commenced the hardest-fought, the bloodiest action of the war, which terminated in the defeat of Murray, and his retreat within the city". The Martello Towers are bomb-proof, they were four [151] in number, and formed a chain of forts extending along the ridge from the St. Lawrence to the River St.

Charles. The fact that this ridge commanded the city, unfortunately induced Murray to leave it and attempt to fortify the heights, in which he was only partially successful, owing to the frost being still in the ground.

The British Government were made aware of the fact, and seeing that from the improved artillery the city was now fully commanded from the heights, which are about seven hundred yards distant, decided to build the Towers.

Arrangements were accordingly made by Col. Brock, then commanding the troops in Canada. In 1806 the necessary materials were collected, and in the following year their construction commenced. They were not, however, completed till 1812. The original estimate for the four was 8,000, but before completion the Imperial Government had expended nearly 12,000.

They are not all of the same size, but, like all Martello Towers, they are circular and bomb-proof. The exposed sides are _thirteen_ feet thick and gradually diminish like the horns of the crescent moon, to seven feet in the centre of the side next the city walls. The first or lower story contains tanks, store-rooms and magazine; the second has cells for the garrison, with port-holes for two guns. On the top there used to be one 68-pounder carronade, two 24 and two 9-pounders.

A party of Arnold's soldiers ascended these heights in November, 1775, and advanced quite close to the city walls, shouting defiance at the little garrison. A few shots soon dispersed the invaders, who retraced their steps to Wolfe's Cove. At the _b.u.t.tes-a-Nepveu_ great criminals were formerly executed. Here, La Corriveau, the St. Vallier Lafarge, met her deserved fate, in 1763, after being tried by one of Governor Murray's Courts-martial for murdering her husband. After death she was hung in chains, or rather in a solid iron cage, at the fork of four roads, at Levi, close to the spot where the Temperance Monument has since been built. The loathsome form of the murderess caused more than one shudder amongst the peaceable peasantry of Levi, until some brave young men one dark night, cut down the horrid cage, and hid it deep under ground, next to the cemetery at Levi, where, close to a century afterwards, it was dug up and sold to Barnum's agent for his museum.

Sergeant Jas. Thompson describes in his diary, under date 18th Nov., 1782, another memorable execution:

"This day two fellows were executed for the murder and robbery of Capt.

Stead, Commander of one of the Treasury Brigs, on the evening of the 31st Dec., 1779, between the Upper and Lower Town. The criminals went through Port St. Louis, about 11 o'clock, at a slow and doleful pace, to the place where justice had allotted them to suffer the most ignominious death. It is astonishing to see what a crowd of people followed the tragic scene.

Even our people on the works (Cape Diamond) prayed Capt. Twiss for leave to follow the hard-hearted crowd." It was this Capt. Twiss who subsequently furnished the plan and built a temporary citadel in 1793.

In 1793, we have also, recorded in history, another doleful procession of red-coats, the Quebec Garrison accompanying to the same place of execution as a mess-mate (Draper), a soldier of the Fusileers, then commanded by the young Duke of Kent, who, after p.r.o.nouncing the sentence of death, as commander, over the trembling culprit kneeling on his coffin, as son and representative of the Sovereign, exercised the Royal prerogative of mercy and pardoned poor Draper.

Look down Perrault's hill towards the south. There stands, with a few shrubs and trees in the foreground, the Military Home--where infirm soldiers, their widows and children, could find a refuge. It has recently been purchased and converted into the "Female Orphan Asylum." It forms the eastern boundary of a large expanse of verdure and trees, reaching the summit of the lot originally intended by the Seminary of Quebec for a Botanical Garden; subsequently it was contemplated to build their new seminary there to afford the boys abundance of fresh air. Alas! Other counsels prevailed.

Its western boundary is a road leading to the new District Jail--a stone structure of great strength, surmounted with a diminutive tower, admirably adapted, one would imagine, for astronomical pursuits. From its glistening cupola, Commander Ashe's Provincial Observatory is. visible to the east.

I was forgetting to notice the substantial building, dating from 1855--the Ladies' Home. The Protestant Ladies of Quebec have here, at no small expense and trouble, raised a useful asylum, where the aged and infirm may find shelter. This, and the building opposite, St. Bridget's Asylum, with its growing fringe of trees and green plots, are decided ornaments to the _Grande Allee_.

The old burying ground of 1832, with all its ghastly memories of the Asiatic scourge, has a.s.sumed quite an ornate, nay a respectable aspect.

Close to the toll-bar on the _Grande Allee_, may yet be seen one of the meridian stones which serve to mark the western boundary of the city, beyond the Messrs. Lampson's mansion. On the adjoining domain, well named "Battlefield Cottage," formerly the property of Col. Charles Campbell, now owned by Michael Connolly, Esq., was the historic well out of which a cup of water was obtained to moisten the parched lips of the dying hero, James Wolfe, on the 13th September, 1759. The well was filled in a few years ago, but not before it was nigh proving fatal to Col. Campbell's then young son,--(Arch. Campbell, Esq., of Thornhill.) Its site is close to the western boundary fence, in the garden, behind "Battlefield Cottage." Here we are at those immortal plains--the Hastings of the two races once arrayed in battle against one another at Quebec. The western boundary of the Plains is a high fence enclosing Marchmont, for years the cherished family seat of John Gilmour, Esq., now occupied by Col. Fred Turnbull, of the Canadian Hussars.

On the north-east corner of the Belvedere Road, may be seen a range of gla.s.s houses, put up by J. Doig, formerly gardener at Benmore.

A few minutes more brings the tourist to the Hon. D. Price's villa, Wolfe- field, where may be seen the precipitous path up the St. Denis burn, by which the Highlanders and British soldiers gained a footing above, on the 13th September, 1759, and met in battle array to win a victory destined to revolutionize the New World. The British were piloted in their ascent of the river by a French prisoner brought with them from England--Denis de Vitre, formerly a Quebecer of distinction. Their landing place at Sillery was selected by Major Robert Stobo, who had, in May, 1759, escaped from a French prison in Quebec, and joined his countrymen, the English, at Louisbourg, from whence he took ship again to meet Admiral Saunders' fleet at Quebec. The tourist next drives past Thornhill, for years owned by Arch. Campbell, Esq., P.S.C., Sir Francis Hincks' old home when Premier to Lord Elgin. Opposite appear the leafy glades of Spencer Wood, so grateful a summer retreat, that Lord Elgin used to say, "There he not only loved to live, but would like to rest his bones." Next comes Spencer Grange, the seat of J. M. LeMoine, Esq.; then Woodfield, the homestead, of the Hon.

Wm. Sheppard [152] in 1847, later on of Messrs. John Lawson and Jas Gibb.

[153] Facing the Woodfield property, on the Gomin Road, are visible the extensive vineries and peach houses of Hon. Geo. Okill Stuart, Judge of the Vice-Admiralty Court. The eye next dwells on the rustic church of St.

Michael, embowered in evergreens. This handsome little temple of worship where the Governors of Canada usually attended, when living at Spencer Wood, contain several memorial window. Southwards looms out, at _Sous- les-Bois_, the stately convent of _Jesus-Marie_; on the edge of the bank, to the south-east, at _Pointe-a-Pizeau_, stands the R. C. Church of St.

Colomb de Sillery, in a most commanding position; on the Sillery heights, north-west of the Church of St. Michael, the late Bishop George J.

Mountain owned a delightful summer retreat, recently sold to Albert H.

Furniss, Esq.; then you meet with villas innumerable--one of the most conspicuous is Benmore House, Col. Rhodes' country seat. Benmore is well worthy of a call, were it only to procure a _bouquet_. This is not merely the Eden of roses; Col. Rhodes has combined the farm with the garden. His underground rhubarb and mushroom cellars, his boundless asparagus beds and strawberry plantations, are a credit to Quebec.

Next come Clermont, [154] Beauvoir, [155] Kilmarnock, [156] Cataraqui, [157] Kilgraston, [158] Kirk-Ella, [159] Meadow Bank, [160] Ravenswood, [161] Dornald, [162] until, after a nine miles' drive, Redclyffe closes the rural landscape--Redclyffe, [163] on the top of _Cap Rouge_ Promontory. There, many indications yet mark the spot where Roberval's ephemeral colony wintered as far back as 1542. You can now, if you like, return to the city by the same route, or select the Ste. Foye Road, skirting the cla.s.sic heights where General Murray, six months after the first battle of the Plains, lost the second, on the 28th April, 1760; the St. Foye Church was then occupied by the British soldiers. Beausejour is a beautiful demesne, where M. Ls. Bilodeau has several reservoirs, for the propagation of trout. Your gaze next rests on Holland House, Montgomery's headquarters in 1775, behind which is Holland tree, overshadowing, as of yore, the grave of the Hollands. [164]

The view, from the St. Foye Road, of the gracefully meandering St. Charles below, especially during the high tides, is something to be remembered.

The tourist shortly after detects the iron pillar, surmounted by a bronze statue of Bellona, presented in 1855 by Prince Napoleon Bonaparte-- intended to commemorate the fierce struggle at this spot on the 28th April, 1760. In close vicinity, appear the bright _parterres_ or umbrageous groves of Bellevue, [165] Hamwood, [166] Bijou, [167]

Westfield, [168] Sans-Bruit, and the narrow gothic arches of Finlay Asylum; soon you re-enter by St. John's Suburbs, with the broad basin of the St. Charles and the pretty Island of Orleans staring you in the face.

The princ.i.p.al objects to be noted in this street are: on the north side, St. John's Church, built in 1848--a large but not very elegant temple of R. C. worship, capable of seating 2,000 persons; on the south side, St.

Mathew's Church, (Church of England,) a handsome structure, whose beginnings, in 1828; were a.s.sociated with the late Bishop G. J. Mountain's ministrations and munificence. The exertions of the Rev. Chs. Hamilton and the generous donations of his brother, Robert Hamilton, and other members of the family, have been mainly instrumental in enlarging and decorating this building. Close by, is the new French Protestant Church. We shall close this short sketch with a mention of the "Quebec Protestant Burying Ground," originally bought by the Government of the Province of Quebec, from the heirs of St. Simon, partly on the 9th December, 1771, and partly on the 22nd August, 1778. In the year 1823, Lord Dalhousie made a grant of this ground to the "Trustees of the Protestant Burying Ground," in whose hands it has remained until the 19th May,, 1860, when the cemetery was declared closed by the 23rd Vict., chap. 70. Major Thomas Scott, Pay- master of the 70th Regiment, a brother to Sir Walter, was buried here in 1823. Major Thomas Scott was at one time charged with having written "_Rob Roy_." And next to St. John Gate, looms out the handsome new building of the Y. M. C. A a.s.sociation facing the new Montcalm Market.

a.s.sOCIATION HALL.

"The first Young Men's Christian a.s.sociation in this city was organized about twenty years ago, but it soon collapsed, having run into debt. A second attempt resulted in the formation of another a.s.sociation in 1867, which was also a failure. The present a.s.sociation was established in January, 1870. It had a very small beginning--five young men met in a merchant's office in the Lower Town for prayer and conference and they formed the nucleus of the present a.s.sociation.

John C. Thomson, Esq., now President of the a.s.sociation, a gentleman well known for his active interest in all good works, was one of the five. Soon after this prayer meeting, a canva.s.s was made among young men, and 150 names obtained. Henry Fry Esq., merchant, was elected first President, and Mr. W. Ahern, Secretary. For three years the a.s.sociation occupied rooms over the hardware store of Messrs. Belanger & Gariepy, Fabrique street, and, in 1873, removed to the rooms above Mr. McLeod's drug store, which it vacated to enter upon an enlarged sphere of labour in its elegant new building. It is admirably situated, facing the Montcalm market."

"In October 1875, a delegation of Y. M. C. A. workers visited this city, including Messrs. Crombie, Budge, Cole, &c. The revival services which followed their visit will still be fresh in the memory of our readers. Two results, both fraught with very great importance to the a.s.sociation, followed their visit. One was the engagement of Mr. T. S.

Cole as permanent Secretary, the other was the development of a scheme for the construction of a building to be specially adapted, and regularly set apart for the use of the a.s.sociation. On a memorable Monday evening in October, 1877, in the Methodist Church in this city, the scheme was first publicly discussed. At this meeting some $5,000 was subscribed, and the canva.s.s next day resulted in large additions to the above. Up to the present, $19,000 have been subscribed towards the structure, and over $15,000 paid in, including the proceeds of the ladies' bazaar last year (1879).

"The site of the building, one of the most valuable, and certainly one of the most eligible for the purpose in the city was obtained by purchase from the Dominion Government by auction in the month of January, 1878. The plans for the building were secured by compet.i.tion, the successful architect being Mr. J. F. Peachy. The cost of the whole building, when completed, will be $40,000, but at present only the front portion has been erected. The back wing will be commenced when a few thousand dollars more have been subscribed towards it. It is to contain the gymnasium below, and above a large hall 100 feet by 56, with seating accommodation for 700 people on the floor and 300 in the galleries. This hall will be furnished with an independent entrance from Glacis street, twelve feet wide. The lot upon which the present building is erected contains 21,000 square feet, being 186 feet in depth, and having a frontage on St. John street of 106 feet. The front building covers the whole extent of frontage and has a depth of 50 feet. It is built of stone and brick, the whole front being stone and cut gla.s.s. It contains three flats including the mansard. Over the main entrance is an open Bible, upon which is engraved Matt. XXIII., 8. Above the centre Window in raised letters in stone, are the words "Quebec Young Men's Christian a.s.sociation, 1879." Immediately behind the front structure is a small building which forms a room for the daily prayer meeting. It may be reached from Glacis street, and also by a staircase leading down to it from the entrance hall of the main building."

"The lower part of the edifice has been fitted up as stores. The main entrance to a.s.sociation Hall, in the middle of the front, is by a s.p.a.cious staircase twelve feet wide, at the foot of which are elegant double swinging doors with plate gla.s.s. Beneath this stairway is the heating apparatus, which has been placed in the building by Mr. Thomas Andrews, of St. John street, and is on an entirely new and highly approved principle. The whole second flat, is set apart for a.s.sociation use. One-half of it composes the reading room. This magnificent apartment which is one of the finest reading rooms on the Continent, is 45 by 46 feet, having a height of 18 feet, with windows on three sides, the balcony window on the North overlooking the whole of the country between St. Roch's and the Laurentian Mountains.

Opposite the top of the stairway on the landing of this flat, is the door leading to the Secretary's room, which is fitted with gla.s.s, in order that the Secretary may see everybody coming up stairs into the reading room or elsewhere. This room is about 12 by 18 feet, and has on either side of it, the committee room and cloak room, both of about similar dimensions. Opposite the committee room is the lavatory, &c., for the use of members. At the West end of this flat the rooms both front and back are parlours, with folding doors between, so that while one may be used for conversational purposes or such like, the other may be fitted with a piano and also with games, such as chess, draughts, &c. The upper flat, which contains also very handsome rooms, beautifully finished, is divided into two portions, one to be occupied exclusively by the Secretary, and containing dining and drawing rooms divided by folding doors, four bed-rooms, kitchen, store room, &c. The other part is divided between the caretaker's apartments, and the bath room, which is specially for the use of members. The committee also reserve a spare room in this portion of the building. From the roof of the structure, which is reached by a staircase leading into the tower, a magnificent view is obtained of every part of the city and of all the surrounding country. Special credit in connection with its erection is certainly merited by the contractor, Mr. John Hatch, and the architect, Mr. J. F. Peachy."

CHAPTER V.

_MODERN QUEBEC_.

"I can re-people with the Past; and of The Present there is still, for eye and thought And meditation, chasten'd down, enough."

--(CHILDE HAROLD.)

Quebec, with the limitations set forth elsewhere, under the English regime, was governed by Justices of the Peace, who sat in special sessions, under authority of Acts of the Provincial Legislature, until 1833. In 1832 the city was incorporated (1 William IV., chap. 52,), Its first Mayor, elected in 1833, was a barrister of note, Elzear Bedard, Esq., subsequently Mr. Justice Elzear J.S.C. The amended Act of Incorporation of the City of Quebec, the 29th Vic., cap. 57, sanctioned on the 18th September, 1865, thus defines the limits of the city, the number and limits of the wards:--"The City of Quebec, for all munic.i.p.al purposes, comprises the whole extent of land within the limits a.s.signed to the said city by a certain proclamation of His Excellency Sir Alured Clarke, bearing date the 7th May, 1792, and in addition all land extending to low water mark of the River St. Lawrence, in front of the said city, including the sh.o.r.e of the River St Charles, opposite the city, as limited by high water mark on the north side of the said river, from, the prolongation of the west line of St. Ours street to the west line of the farm of the Nuns of the Hotel Dieu; thence running southwards along the said line, about 550 feet, to the southern extremity of a pier erected on the said farm, at low water mark; thence running due east, about 800 feet, to the intersection of the line limiting the beach grants of the Seigniory of Notre Dame des Anges, at low water; and finally, thence along the said beach line, running north 40 degrees east, to the intersection of the prolongation of the line of the Commissioners for the Harbour of Quebec, and thence following the said Commissioners' line to the westerly line of the city. The said city also comprises all wharves, piers and other erections made or to be made in the said River St. Lawrence, opposite to or adjoining the said city, though extending beyond the low water mark of the said river, and being within the said Commissioners' line, and even beyond the same, should it be hereafter extended or reduced.

_BOUNDARIES OF THE WARDS._

"The said city is divided into eight wards, to wit: St. Louis Ward, Palace Ward, St. Peter's Ward, Champlain Ward, St. Roch's Ward, Jacques Cartier Ward, St. John's Ward and Montcalm Ward.

1st. St. Louis Ward comprises all that part of the Upper Town within the fortifications, and south of a line drawn from Prescott Gate to St John's Gate, along the middle of Mountain street, Buade street, Fabrique street, and St. John street.

2nd. Palace Ward comprises all that part of the Upper Town within the fortifications, and not included in St. Louis Ward. 3rd. St. Peter's Ward comprises all that part of the Lower Town bounded on the south by a line drawn in the middle of Sous-le-Fort street, and prolonged in the same direction to low water mark in the River St. Lawrence at the one end, and to the cliff below the Castle of St. Louis at the other, and on the west by the eastern limits of the Parish of St. Roch, together with all the wharves, piers and other erections, opposite to this part of the Lower Town, although built beyond low water mark in the said river.

4th. Champlain Ward comprises all that part of the Lower Town lying between St. Peter's Ward and the limits of the said city, together with all wharves, piers and other erections, opposite thereto, although built beyond the low water mark in the said river.

5th. St. Roch's Ward comprises all that part of the Parish of St. Roch which lies within the limits of the said City of Quebec, on the north-west side of a line drawn in the middle of St. Joseph street, from one end to the other.

6th. Jacques Cartier Ward comprises all that part of the Parish of St.

Roch which lies within the limits of the said City of Quebec, not comprised in St. Roch's Ward.

7th. St John's Ward comprises all that s.p.a.ce bounded by Jacques Cartier Ward, the fortifications, the limits of the said city on the west, and a line drawn in the middle of St. John street from St. John's Gate to the western limits of the city.

8th. Montcalm Ward comprises all that s.p.a.ce bounded by the fortifications on the east, and on the west by the city limits, on the north by St John's Ward, and on the south by the _cime du cap_ of the St. Lawrence.

The city is administered by a Mayor, holding office for two years, at a salary of not more than $1,200, nor less than $600, per annum; and by eight Aldermen and sixteen Councillors, returned by the eight wards,-- elected to serve gratuitously three years by the duly qualified electors of each ward: no one is eligible as Mayor, Aldermen or Councillor unless he be a British subject, by birth or naturalization, and of the full age of twenty-one years, and owning within the city limits real estate, free from enc.u.mbrance, of the value of $2,000. Quebec contains ten small _Fiefs_ or Domaines. The _Fief_ Sault-au-Matelot belongs to the Seminary.

The Ursuline Nuns, the R. C. Church (_La Fabrique_), the Heirs LaRue, the Hotel-Dieu Nuns, the Recollet Friars, each had his _Fief_. The _Fief de la Misericorde_ (Mercy) belongs to the Hotel-Dieu. The Heirs LaRue own the _Fief de Becancour_ and that of _de Villeraie_; there is also the _Fief Ta.s.seville_. The _Fief_ of the Recollets--or Franciscan Friars--the order being extinct, reverted to the Crown.

_WAR DEPARTMENT PROPERTY IN QUEBEC CITY AND DISTRICT._