Orchids Part 2

THE POTTING AND BASKETING PROCESS

We are often asked what season is the best for potting and basketing Orchids. Experienced growers say that, with the exception of the winter season, they are engaged in potting operations all the year round, potting each section as it requires it. Springtime is a period when a general overhaul of the plants is usual, and, at that time, plants requiring it should be repotted, but those which are not in the proper condition, or which are showing flower-spikes, should be allowed to remain until their flowering time has pa.s.sed.

As a general rule, it may be said that the best time to perform the operation is soon after the flowering season has pa.s.sed, and that no plant should be repotted unless it really requires it; but any plant which has become in a bad condition in the pot by being in unsuitable material should be repotted at once, no matter what season it may be.

Care should be taken to use the pots and crocks in a thoroughly clean condition. Broken crocks are generally used for drainage, although they are not now placed in the pots to the depth of one-half or more, as they used to be. The depth of the crocks varies from about one-third in Cypripediums and terrestrial Orchids generally, to a rather greater depth for Cattleyas, Laelias, and similar Orchids, the depth of crocks also being varied according to the density of the material used, fewer crocks being necessary when a mixture of Osmunda fibre, or other material which lets the water through quickly, is employed in place of peat.

Sand and crushed crocks or potsherds are used by many for mixing with the potting material, but they may easily be dispensed with, or used only in very small quant.i.ties.

Turfy loam carefully broken up and mixed in suitable proportions with peat and Sphagnum-moss, or Osmunda, or Polypodium fibre, is necessary for Cypripediums, the proportion of loam being greatest for the stronger-growing plants; certain Selenipediums and Cypripediums require quite one-half of that ingredient. Some good growers use loam fibre with a sprinkling of leaves and broken crocks entirely for _Cypripedium insigne_ and others of the green-leafed cla.s.s, and also for Calanthes, Phaius, Zygopetalums, and other plants.

In preparing the peat for use in potting, the bracken rhizomes should be set aside to place as a layer over the crocks, with a little Sphagnum-moss. Bracken rhizomes have been used with advantage instead of crocks to form drainage for Odontoglossums, and some growers like it so much for that purpose that the horticultural sundriesmen supply it sterilised in bags.

The methods of potting and choice of material vary with different growers, each pursuing in some matters different methods to those observed by others. It is desirable that an Orchid grower should endeavour to find out the best methods for his own circ.u.mstances and, if the results are satisfactory, that he should adhere to them, for there is no more prolific cause of failure than in continually trying experiments recommended by others. The operation of potting or basketing Orchids is very simple, and can be readily learned by observation. The aim should be to avoid injuring the living roots but to leave the plant firm in the pot.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLATE III

DENDROBIUM WARDIANUM

(At the time the photograph was taken this plant bore 264 flowers.)]

BASKETS AND POTS

It is more in accordance with nature to grow epiphytal Orchids of convenient size in baskets to be suspended from the roof of the Orchid house, and in the case of subjects reputedly difficult to grow the best results are often attained in this way. At the same time, this is due as much to the plants being placed near to the gla.s.s of the roof, as to the fact that the air has better access to the roots than when the plants are in pots. Hence it is that for suspending plants of small and medium growth, Orchid pans made in the same way as the flower-pot are found to be a convenient subst.i.tute for baskets, as they are not so liable to decay as wood-baskets.

Stanhopeas, Lueddemannias, Acinetas, and some other Orchids which produce their flower spikes directly from the base of the growth, must be grown in baskets to admit of the proper production of their flowers, which, if grown in pots, are sent down into the compost and lost.

Gongoras, Cirrhaeas, and similar genera, which produce slender spikes of flowers of drooping habit, are also best in baskets, as they produce their flowers much more freely when the plants are suspended.

The Orchid pan, for suspending, is also equally good for Masdevallias of the Chimaera section, a large number of Bulbophyllums and Cirrhopetalums, and generally for plants of small stature which would be too far away from the gla.s.s if placed on the stage. For the bulk of the collection the grower has to use the ordinary flower-pots, which are still unsurpa.s.sed for general purposes. The elaborately designed pots, perforated with holes or slits, which were used for Orchids years ago, are not necessary, for there is no defect in the ordinary flower-pot which cannot be overcome by the careful and skilful pract.i.tioner.

Rafts and cylinders of teak-wood made in the same manner as baskets are useful for some species, but it has to be remembered that plants on rafts are liable to suffer from lack of sufficient moisture-holding material around them. _Broughtonia sanguinea_, however, is never so happy as when grown on a horizontally suspended raft without the least potting material.

The great trouble with suspended Orchids, and one which precludes the cultivator employing this culture for so many plants as he could wish, is the drip they cause to the plants on the stages. No Orchid should have another plant suspended above it; if it is not possible to avoid this, the relative positions of the suspended plants should be changed as often as possible; water should only be given them by "dipping" the plants, and they should be allowed to drain thoroughly before being again suspended. As many of the suspended plants as possible should be arranged on each side of the path, and in other situations where there are no plants immediately under them.

Narrow rafts 4 inches wide and 1 foot or so in height are suitable for _Angraec.u.m infundibulare_, _A. imbricatum_, and other scandent Angraec.u.ms of similar growth. These should be fastened to the rafts with some good Sphagnum-moss between the plant and the raft on the lower half, the base of the plant and the raft being afterwards fastened in a flower-pot with Sphagnum-moss, the raft leaning at a slight angle. Sphagnum-moss can be added on the upper part as the plant grows, and, when sufficiently rooted up the stem, it can be severed half-way up when the base will produce new growths.

STAKING OR FIXING ORCHIDS

Some years ago, when large specimens were favoured, it used to be the practice to stake or "stick" the plants, as it was called, some of them exhibiting almost as many sticks as pseudo-bulbs. The sticks rapidly decayed, often leaving the stumps to harbour fungus and cause injury to the plants.

The compact specimens of the present day, when properly grown, require no support from sticks. In respect to specimens of larger growth, such as Aerides of tall habit, Laelias of the _L. purpurata_ cla.s.s, and Dendrobiums, when they require sticking at all, they may be securely supported by one stick in the centre, to which one of the strongest growths should be fastened, any others requiring support being looped to the centre stick. The fewer sticks used the better.

Dwarf plants with creeping rhizomes between the pseudo-bulbs used often to be secured when repotted by small wire pegs, and the custom is not yet quite obsolete. Metal, especially galvanised iron wire, which is most commonly used, is very injurious to any portion of an Orchid which is allowed to come in contact with it. Such pegs are unnecessary, for the plants can be fixed with the potting material, and later on the new roots will effectually secure them.

In fastening Orchids on rafts or blocks, fine copper wire should be used, and all the care possible taken to prevent it resting on the rhizomes or stems, a small piece of peat or Sphagnum-moss being placed beneath the wire where it crosses the plant. Where Orchids such as Phalaenopsis are grown in baskets or hanging pans, the leaves should not be allowed to touch the wire suspenders, or injury will result. Where leaves too closely approach the wire suspenders during their growth, the wire should be bent to avoid contact, or have a small shred of cotton-wool or other material bound round it at the point of contact, if the leaf cannot be drawn aside.

For staking Orchids, bamboo canes are preferable to common deal-wood sticks.

LABELLING THE PLANTS

It adds much to the interest of a collection of Orchids, either small or large, if a proper system of recording the plants is arranged for by means of a stock-book, in which the name of each plant is entered as it is acquired, together with the source from which it was obtained, and any other particulars that may be required when the plant flowers. This entry need only be brief, and generally one, or at most two lines will suffice for each plant. If it is intended to keep the plants under numbers, the left-hand margin should bear consecutive numbers from one onward, but if it is desired to have the names on each plant, the names in the stock-book should be arranged in an alphabetical manner. In some collections where numbering is practised the number is written across the top of the label, and the name written lengthwise when desired.

The common deal label is not suitable, because the base soon decays in Orchid houses, causing danger from fungal growth, and rendering the identification of the plant after the label has perished, or fallen away, very uncertain. The lead number for clipping the rim of the pot, or attaching to the wires of the basket or suspending pan, is less objectionable, but they are only convenient where numbers are alone used. Zinc labels and various other contrivances have been tried, but the best and safest label, either for numbers or names, or both, is the white celluloid label, obtainable in all sizes, similar to the ordinary wooden plant label, and in the ticket form for attaching to the baskets by means of fine wire. This kind of label does not decay as the wood labels, and it may be cleaned and used again as long as it remains in a perfect condition. Let all labels be made as small as possible consistent with their being firmly fixed, as it detracts much from the appearance of a house of plants if the labels are too much in evidence.

Care must be taken during repotting that the labels removed from the plants should each be returned to its proper specimen. Much trouble may be caused by mixing the labels.

CHAPTER VI

REMOVING USELESS LEAVES AND BULBS

An unsightly appearance is given to many collections of Orchids by the presence on some of the plants of a number of damaged or yellow leaves.

These are often supposed to be the result of bad cultivation, and, in some cases, rightly so. But in all collections of Orchids the old leaves, even of the evergreen species, do not pa.s.s off naturally as they do in their native habitats, where they have the natural seasons with their climatic changes to cause the leaves to fall naturally. When cultivated under gla.s.s, the species which are known as evergreen kinds retain their old leaves long after they would have pa.s.sed away in their native wilds; and not only that, but they decline and become unsightly for years under gla.s.s, instead of pa.s.sing away in a few months.

Consequently many Orchids in collections often carry at least twice as many leaves as they ought to do, and the oldest are the most unsightly.

A ready example of this kind is given by most collections of Masdevallias. The leaves are usually densely packed, many of the older ones shabby, and not only unsightly in themselves, but interfering with the full development of the new growths.

Masdevallias have no developed pseudo-bulbs, but a joint will be seen where the leaf-blades join the basal stems; all damaged leaves should be cut off just above that joint, and it will be found that some of the plants will be benefited, both in appearance and condition, by having from one-third to one-half the number of their old and damaged leaves removed. The same remarks apply to all Orchids of similar growth, such as Pleurothallis and Octomerias, and indeed to the species generally, for damaged or decaying leaves can be of no a.s.sistance in the development of the plant, unless in exceptional cases where the grower must use his own discretion.

USELESS PSEUDO-BULBS

If an imported Orchid such as a Cattleya or Laelia, which has been cultivated under gla.s.s for several years and has many pseudo-bulbs, be turned out of the pot and the roots freed from the potting material, it will be seen that the new roots which nourish the plant are confined to the freshest pseudo-bulbs, and that the roots beneath the older pseudo-bulbs are in such a condition that they are useless in the economy of the plant. This fact goes to show that the old pseudo-bulbs are being supported by the newer growths, and, that they are seriously impeding the full development of the flower-producing part of the specimen. In such cases it is a common thing to see large specimens collapse and die off, the decay being traceable to the old bulbs in the centre of the plant. It is, therefore, better to remove old pseudo-bulbs behind the last three or four leading ones, and, if it is desired to retain all leading portions of a large ma.s.s in one pot or pan to form a specimen, they should be potted together, when it will be found that, given reasonable treatment, they will make better specimens than if left in a ma.s.s. In the case of varieties that need to be propagated, the pieces removed should be placed in comparatively small Orchid pans or baskets, properly labelled, and in due time useful and often valuable specimens may be secured from material which would only have been detrimental to the parent plant. The same kind of treatment will be found equally beneficial in the case of garden hybrids which have been cultivated long enough to have a number of back bulbs. In such cases the plants frequently degenerate after the first two or three years, until they produce inferior flowers, but the removal of the back pseudo-bulbs results in giving the flowering growths the full benefit of the root action, and consequently the plants again produce flowers of good quality.

Potting time is a very convenient season to give special attention to the removal of useless leaves and pseudo-bulbs, as the plants can be readily handled when they are out of the pots.

All useless parts removed should be taken out of the house and burnt. It is a common practice to throw the leaves under the stage. No rubbish of this, or any other kind, should be allowed in the Orchid house, as it forms a harbour for insects and is, in other respects, objectionable.

CHAPTER VII

PROPAGATION BY DIVISION

It used to be thought a very delicate operation to divide an Orchid, or to remove any portion of it for the purpose of obtaining another specimen, and, when the operation was carried out, it was thought to be at the risk of the plant and its offset.

In the case of badly grown plants, or where the houses are unsuitable for growing Orchids successfully, there may still be considerable risk in the process; but under ordinary conditions, and where the plants have proper accommodation, there is no risk whatever; it may be said that plants are never in better health than when they are divided at reasonable intervals. If we consider the case of _Cypripedium insigne Sanderae_, some of the white Cattleyas, and many other Orchids which were imported only as single specimens originally but which are now well represented in gardens, the advantage of dividing the plants is readily seen.

Pseudo-bulbous Orchids with progressive rhizomes, such as Cattleyas, Laelias, Oncidiums, and Odontoglossums, should be divided by severing the rhizomes, retaining two or more pseudo-bulbs together. This operation can be done at any season of the year, but it is most convenient to do it at potting time, and, for preference, just before the commencement of the natural growing season of the plant. Small pieces should be placed in small Orchid pans or baskets, but larger ones may be potted at once and placed on the stage with the other plants.

Dendrobiums may also be propagated by dividing the plants, but a large section of the genus may also be propagated by cuttings of the pseudo-bulbs. This method is specially useful for increasing a rare and fine variety of _Dendrobium n.o.bile_ or others of the section, as a good supply of plants can quickly be obtained in this way. The method is to cut the pseudo-bulbs into lengths of two or three inches and to place them in small Orchid pans, six or eight in a pan, suspending the pan in a warm, moist, house. The Thunia section of Phaius, _Epidendrum radicans_, and some other Epidendrums and Orchids of similar growth may be multiplied in this manner. Further remarks on propagation will be found under the names of the genera enumerated.