New Orleans Kitchens Part 4

1/2 gallon skim milk 6 to 8 drops liquid vegetable rennet 1/4 tablespoon salt Mix the milk, rennet, and salt together in a big gla.s.s or a stainless-steel bowl. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and leave out at room temperature for 24 hours.

After 24 hours, there will be a large single curd floating in whey. With a slotted spoon, spoon pieces of the large curd into pint-size cheese molds. (Poppy uses plastic pint containers that she has dotted with holes using a soldering iron.) Put molds on a rack in a pan, cover loosely with plastic wrap and allow to drain while refrigerated for 8 hours. Turn cheeses out of the molds and store in covered containers for up to 2 weeks.

Note: Creole cream cheese is usually eaten by covering with a small amount of cream and sprinkling with sugar for breakfast. Or also, it is eaten savory style with salt and pepper.

Serves 4 Frozen Creole Cream Cheese Recipe courtesy of Poppy Tooker from Savvy Gourmet and Slow Food New Orleans.

4 pints Creole Cream Cheese (see previous recipe) 1 cup sugar 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 cup heavy cream Blend all ingredients together until smooth. Using an ice cream maker, freeze according to the manufacturer's directions and freeze to soft serve consistency, then serve.

Serves 8 (yields 2 quarts) Calas Recipe courtesy of Poppy Tooker from Savvy Gourmet and Slow Food New Orleans.

2 cups cooked rice 6 tablespoons flour 3 heaping tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 eggs 4 teaspoons vanilla Nutmeg Powdered sugar Mix the rice and dry ingredients together thoroughly. Add the eggs and vanilla and, when thoroughly mixed, drop by spoonfuls into 360-degree deep fat and fry until brown. Drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve hot.

Note: Maintain mixture below 70 degrees or separation will occur when dropped into the hot oil.

Serves 6 (yields approximately 12 calas) Turtles Recipe courtesy of Mary Ann Meyer.

1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter, softened 1 pound pecans 1 pound caramels 2 tablespoons water 8 ounces semisweet chocolate Spread b.u.t.ter on a baking sheet and then lay nuts over top. Melt caramels in a double boiler with the water. Drop 1 teaspoon melted caramel over each pecan. When cool, lift each nut off of the pan and then place on b.u.t.tered tin foil. Melt chocolate in microwave and then spread over each nut; cool.

Note: You may cl.u.s.ter the nuts together for larger turtles.

Serves 10 to 12 White Chocolate Bread Pudding Recipe courtesy of John Folse from The Encyclopedia of Cajun & Creole Cuisine (Chef John Folse & Company Publishing).

4 eggs 6 egg yolks 4 cups heavy whipping cream 1 cup milk 1 cup sugar 9 ounces white chocolate 3 (10-inch) loaves French bread, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices In a large mixing bowl, whisk together eggs and egg yolks; set aside.

In a large saucepan, combine cream, milk, and sugar. Bring mixture to a low simmer then add the white chocolate. Whisk until chocolate is completely melted. Remove pot from heat and quickly stir in eggs. Blend thoroughly to keep eggs from scrambling.

In a 9 x 13-inch baking dish, place bread slices to make two to three layers. Pour half of the cream mixture over bread. Press bread gently allowing cream mixture to be absorbed evenly into bread. Once most of mixture has been soaked up, pour remaining cream over bread and press gently. Cover dish with foil and let soak a minimum of 5 hours prior to baking.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Bake, covered, approximately 1 hour. Remove foil and bake 45 minutes more, or until top is golden brown. This bread pudding is best chilled in the refrigerator overnight then cut into squares and heated in individual portions in the microwave. If desired, create a white chocolate sauce for topping bread pudding by combining 8 ounces melted white chocolate with 3 ounces heavy whipping cream. This may be done in a double boiler or microwave.

Serves 6 to 8 Apple Frangipane Tart Recipe courtesy of Tariq Hanna from Sucre.

Short Dough 1 pound Plugra b.u.t.ter or other unsalted b.u.t.ter 1/2 pound sugar (or 1 cup plus 1 heaping tablespoon) 2 eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1-1/2 pounds cake flour (or 5-1/3 cups) Frangipane 1 stick plus 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter, melted 10 ounces powdered sugar combined with 10 ounces almond flour 1/3 cup bread flour 5 eggs Apples 2 to 3 Fuji apples, peeled Cinnamon sugar For the dough, cream b.u.t.ter and sugar well. Add eggs and vanilla. Add flour and mix until just blended. Refrigerate before use.

Roll out dough to 1/4-inch thickness and place in a tart mold. Trim excess dough and bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes, or until very lightly browned.

For the frangipane, combine all ingredients until smooth.

To a.s.semble, slice apples into 1/4-inch wedges and then sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Fill the pre-baked tart sh.e.l.l two-thirds with the frangipane. Arrange apples over top and bake at 350 degrees for 15 to 18 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Note: As a variation, use pears, peaches, nectarines, plums, figs, or any other firm fruit of your choice.

Serves 6 to 8 Dough Variations For chocolate short dough, replace 4-1/2 tablespoons of flour with cocoa powder (about 2-1/2 ounces). For nut dough, simply add 3 ounces ground nuts of choice after flour has been added. For citrus dough, add 1/2 tablespoon citrus oil of choice and 2 tablespoons zest.

Frangipane Variations For a deeper nuttier flavor, brown the b.u.t.ter first. Replace almond flour (finely ground almonds) with any other nut of your choice. For enhanced flavor, add 1/4 cup amaretto or Frangelico.

Gelato di Sesamo, Miele E Latte di Capra Recipe courtesy of Carmello Truillo from La Divina.

Gelato 4 large free-range egg yolks 1/4 teaspoon sea salt 1/2 cup evaporated cane juice 3 cups goat milk 1/3 cup honey 1/3 cup tahini Sesame Candy 2 tablespoons roasted sesame seeds A pinch of sea salt 2 tablespoons honey For the gelato, heat the egg yolks, salt, and evaporated cane juice together until pale ribbons form.

Heat the milk in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. As the milk warms, add the honey, stirring constantly. Cook until the milk is warm. If you have a thermometer, cook the milk to 145 degrees.

Slowly pour some of the warm milk mixture into the beaten egg yolks, mixing well. Pour the yolk mixture back into the milk.

Continue to heat the milk until small bubbles rim the pan and the mixture coats the back of the spoon, being careful not to let the milk scald. If you have a thermometer, cook the milk to 185 degrees.

Mix some of the hot mixture into the tahini, then add the tahini to the hot mixture and mix well.

Put the mixture in an ice bath to cool it down as much as possible, as quickly as possible. Warm milk put directly in the refrigerator will not cool down quickly enough to keep it safe.

Allow the mixture to age for at least 4 hours in the refrigerator. Gelato, like red beans and rice, tastes better the day after it is cooked.

For the candy, bring the roasted sesame seeds, a pinch of salt and honey to 280 degrees. Then spread thinly on a silicon mat and place in the freezer.

Freeze the gelato mixture in your ice cream maker according to its instructions. While the mixture is freezing, break the candy into small bits and return to the freezer. When the gelato is ready, mix in the sesame candy. You may either serve the gelato immediately, or store in your freezer for up to 3 days. Allow the gelato to sit for about 20 minutes in your refrigerator before serving if you have stored it in the freezer.

Serves 6 Sorbetto di Fragola e Balsamico Recipe courtesy of Carmello Truillo from La Divina.

2-1/2 cups fresh Louisiana strawberries, or other strawberries 1 cup organic evaporated cane juice, divided 1-1/3 cups mineral water 3 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar Freshly ground white pepper The day before you make the sorbetto, wash the strawberries under cool running water and pat dry with paper towels. Hull them and then cut in half. Put strawberries in a bowl and cover with 1/2 cup evaporated cane juice. Mix well, cover and refrigerate overnight. The cane juice draws out the flavor of the strawberries and improves the consistency of the sorbetto without giving the strawberries a "cooked" flavor.

Bring the mineral water to a boil, add the remaining evaporated cane juice and then let boil for 2 minutes. Put the mixture in an ice bath to make it as cold as possible, as quickly as possible.

Puree the strawberries with the balsamic vinegar and mix thoroughly with the water mixture. Add about three grindings of white pepper and mix well.

Freeze the sorbetto in your ice cream maker according to directions. You can serve the sorbetto directly from the machine or you can store it in your freezer for up to three days. Let the sorbetto soften in the refrigerator for about 20 minutes before serving if you have stored it in the freezer. Garnish with sliced strawberries.

Serves 4 (yields 1 quart) Lavender Honey Creme Caramel Recipe courtesy of Ryan Hughes from Cafe Degas.

b.u.t.ter 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 lemon, juiced (about 2 tablespoons) 3 tablespoons water 8 egg yolks 1/4 cup honey 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar 2-1/2 cups heavy cream 1 tablespoon dried lavender 2 teaspoons vanilla Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

b.u.t.ter ramekins. Combine sugar and lemon juice for caramel, cook until brown and then add water. Divide into ramekins.

Whip egg yolks, honey, and sugar until light ribbons form. Scald cream with lavender and vanilla and then whisk into egg mixture. Pour into ramekins and then place ramekins in a water bath. Bake, covered, for 30 minutes. Allow to cool in water bath until it reaches room temperature.

To serve, use a paring knife to release the creme from the sides of the ramekins and turn over onto individual plates.

Serves 12 Banana Bread Recipe courtesy of Hollis Hindman Woodrow.

2 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 cup brown sugar 3/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 3 ripe bananas, mashed 1/4 cup yogurt, plain or vanilla flavored 2 eggs 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, melted and cooled to room temperature 1 teaspoon rum 1/2 cup sliced or slivered almonds Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

b.u.t.ter and flour loaf pan. Whisk dry ingredients together to combine. Whisk wet ingredients together to combine. Fold wet ingredients into the dry ingredients. Pour into the prepared loaf pan and then sprinkle the almonds on top. Bake 50 to 55 minutes; cool in pan for 5 minutes and then turn onto cooling rack.

Yield 1 loaf Divinity Fudge Recipe courtesy of Mary Ann Meyer.

4 cups sugar 1 cup water 1 cup light corn syrup 4 egg whites 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup chopped pecans Combine sugar, water, and corn syrup and then cook to hard-ball stage (260 degrees on a candy thermometer). Beat egg whites to soft peaks and then pour hot sugar over egg whites while beating constantly. Continue to beat mixture while adding the vanilla and nuts. Pour into a b.u.t.tered 9-inch-square pan and then let cool; cut into squares.

Makes 12 pieces Angel Food Cake Recipe courtesy of Elizabeth "Buzzy" McFerrin.

2 cups large egg whites (about 15 large eggs), at room temperature 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar 1-1/2 cups granulated sugar 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1/8 teaspoon salt 1-1/2 cups cake flour 1-1/2 cups confectioners' sugar Using an electric mixer fitted with a wire whip, beat the egg whites on medium speed with the cream of tartar until frothy and soft peaks start to form, about 2 minutes. With the machine running, gradually add the sugar and beat until thick and opaque. Add the vanilla and salt; beat to glossy soft peaks.

Sift the flour and confectioners' sugar into the egg white mixture, folding gently to incorporate. Gently pour the batter into an ungreased 10-inch tube pan or a 10-inch-round cake pan and bake until the top forms a light brown crust and pulls away from the sides, about 40 to 45 minutes.

Invert the cake immediately onto a cooling rack and let cool completely. Cut between the edge of the cake and the pan with a long thin knife and slowly remove the cake from the pan.

Use a serrated knife to cut the cake into individual slices and serve. The cake will keep for 2 to 3 days at room temperature.

Makes 1 (10-inch) cake b.u.t.termilk Biscuit Strawberry Shortcake with Sweetened Whipped Cream Recipe courtesy of Elizabeth "Buzzy" McFerrin.

3 pints fresh strawberries, rinsed clean, tops trimmed, and quartered 1 cup granulated sugar 1/4 cup amaretto or other almond-flavored liqueur 1 quart cold heavy cream 1/4 cup confectioners' sugar, plus more for garnish 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract b.u.t.termilk Biscuits (see below) Sliced almonds, lightly toasted, for garnish b.u.t.termilk Biscuits 4 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons baking powder 3/4 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspooon baking soda 1 teaspooon salt 1/2 cup cold unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into small cubes 1/2 cup Crisco or other solid vegetable shortening 2 cups b.u.t.termilk Combine the strawberries, granulated sugar, and amaretto in a large bowl and toss to combine. Let stand at room temperature for at least 20 minutes and up to 24 hours, gently stirring occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to a.s.semble the desserts.

Combine the heavy cream with the confectioners' sugar in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer or whisk until slightly thickened. Add the vanilla and continue to beat until the mixture forms soft peaks.

When ready to a.s.semble the desserts, split the biscuits in half crosswise and place the bottom halves on dessert plates. Spoon the strawberry mixture onto the biscuits and top with a large dollop of sweetened whipped cream. Arrange the biscuit tops on an angle over the strawberries and cream and then sprinkle each serving with additional confectioners' sugar. Garnish the top of each serving with sliced almonds and serve immediately.

For the biscuits, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

Combine the flour, baking powder, sugar, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Add the b.u.t.ter and Crisco and work it in with your fingers or a fork until the mixture resembles coa.r.s.e crumbs. Add the b.u.t.termilk and mix it with your fingers just until the dough comes together and the dry ingredients are wet, being very careful not to overwork the dough.

Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Turn the dough out onto the work surface and pat into a 3/4- to 1-inch-thick round. Cut out the biscuits with a 3-inch cookie cutter, gathering and re-rolling the sc.r.a.ps. Place the biscuits about 1-inch apart on the prepared baking sheet and bake until golden brown, about 12 to 15 minutes.

Cool the biscuits on a wire rack to serve as Strawberry Shortcakes, or serve as desired.

Note: Biscuits may be frozen on baking sheets and kept for several weeks. This recipe is very adaptable and all component recipes can easily be halved. Also, use whatever fruit is in season.

Variation: To make savory biscuits, reduce the sugar from 3/4 cup to 2 tablespoons, or leave it out entirely.

Serves 10 to 12 Coconut Bread Pudding with Caramel Sauce Recipe courtesy of Elizabeth "Buzzy" McFerrin.

1-1/2 long loaves French bread (21/2 to 3 feet in length), cut into 1-inch cubes 1 (13.5-ounce) can coconut milk 1 cup shredded coconut 15 large eggs 6 cups heavy cream 3 cups sugar Caramel Sauce (see below) Caramel Sauce 2 cups sugar 1 tablespoon water 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 cup heavy cream Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the bread cubes in a 9 x 13-inch baking dish and top with the coconut milk and coconut. Beat the eggs in a large bowl.

Combine the cream and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved. Slowly whisk the cream mixture into the eggs to combine. Pour the egg mixture over the bread and let soak for 5 to 10 minutes. Mix together the bread and egg mixture with your hands, squeezing the bread cubes so the mixture is absorbed. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake until set, about 1 hour.

Uncover and continue cooking until the top is golden brown, about 15 to 20 minutes more; let cool for 10 minutes. To serve, spoon the bread pudding onto plates and drizzle each serving with Caramel Sauce.

For the sauce, combine the sugar, water, and lemon juice in a heavy saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Let the mixture boil without stirring until it turns a deep amber color, about 2 to 3 minutes, and remove it from the heat if it starts to burn. Add the cream carefully (it will bubble up), whisk to combine, and remove from the heat. Let cool to just warm before serving. (The sauce will thicken as it cools.) Note: It's important to use coconut milk in this recipe, not a sweetened product like Coco Lopez.

Also, bread puddings are ideal for parties since they can be made ahead of time up to the point of baking and then refrigerated overnight. Bring the pudding to room temperature before baking, or increase the cooking time by about 20 minutes.

Serves 12 Gateau de Sirop (Syrup Cake) Recipe courtesy of Ken Smith.

1/2 cup vegetable oil 1-1/2 cups Steen's Syrup*

1 egg, beaten 2-1/2 cups sifted flour 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon ginger 1/4 teaspoon cloves 1/2 teaspoon salt 1-1/2 teaspoons baking soda 3/4 cup hot water Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Grease and flour an 8-inch-round pan.

Combine oil, syrup, and egg; stir until well blended. Mix and resift all dry ingredients except baking soda. Add dry ingredients to the oil mixture alternately with the hot water in which the baking soda has been dissolved. Begin and end with flour mixture. Pour into prepared pan and then bake 45 minutes. Cool in pan on a wire rack.

Serves 6 * Can be purchased online.

Resources Chefs and Restaurants Chef Scott Snodgra.s.s One Restaurant & Lounge 8132 Hampson St New Orleans, LA 70118 (504) 301-9061.

www.one-sl.com Chef Tom Wolfe Peristyle 1041 Dumaine St New Orleans, LA 70116 (504) 593-9535.

peristylerestaurant.com Chef Chuck Subra La Cote Bra.s.serie 700 Tchoupitoulas St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 613-2350.

www.lacotebra.s.serie.com Chef Brian Landry Galatoire's Restaurant Inc 209 Bourbon St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 525-2021.

www.galatoires.com Chef Matt Guidry Meauxbar 942 N Rampart St New Orleans, LA 70116 (504) 569-9979.

www.meauxbar.com Chef Bob Iacavone Cuvee Restaurant 322 Magazine St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 587-9001.

www.restaurantcuvee.com Chef Stephen G. Schwarz Mat and Naddies 937 Leonidas St New Orleans, LA 70118 (504) 861-9600.

www.matandnaddies.com Chef Greg Sonnier Gabrielle's [email protected] Chef Emanuelle Loubier Dante's Kitchen 736 Dante St New Orleans, LA 70118 (504) 861-3121.

www.danteskitchen.com Chef Ryan Hughes Cafe Degas 3127 Esplanade Ave New Orleans, LA 70119 (504) 945-5635.

www.cafedegas.com Chef Greg Picolo The Bistro At Maison de Ville 727 Rue Toulouse New Orleans, LA 70130 (504)528-9206.

www.hotelmaisondeville.com/dining/ Chefs Rich and Danielle Sutton The St. James Cheese Company 5004 Prytania St New Orleans, LA 70118 (504) 899-4737.

www.stjamescheese.com Chef Adolfo Garcia Rio Mar Restaurant 800 S Peters St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 525-3474.

www.rioma.r.s.eafood.com Chef Jack Leonardi Jacques-Imo's Cafe 8324 Oak St New Orleans, LA 70118 (504) 861-0886.

jacquesimoscafe.com Chef Donald Link Herbsaint 701 Saint Charles Ave New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 524-4114.

www.herbsaint.com Cochon 930 Tchoupitoulas St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 588-2123.

www.cochonrestaurant.com Poppy Tooker Savvy Gourmet 4519 Magazine St New Orleans, LA 70115 (504) 895-2665.

www.savvygourmet.com Slow Food New Orleans Convivium lead by Poppy Tooker and the Savvy Gourmet Chef Tariq Hanna Sucre 3025 Magazine St New Orleans, LA 70115 (504) 520-8311.

www.shopsucre.com Chef/Owners Carmello and Katrina Turillo La Divina Gelateria LLC 3005 Magazine St New Orleans, LA 70115 (504) 342-2634.

www.ladivinagelateria.com Chef John Folse & Company 2517 S. Philippe Ave Gonzales, LA 70737 (225) 644-6000.

www.jfolse.com Chef Corbin Evans (504) 782-7836.

www.chefcorbin.com Private dinners, in-home cla.s.ses, personal chef Chef Ken Smith [email protected] Chef Kevin Vizard Vizard's 2203 Saint Charles Ave New Orleans, LA 70130 (505) 529-9912.

www.vizardsontheavenue.com Ingredients Steen's Cane Syrup P.O. Box 339 119 N. Main St Abbeville, LA 70510 (800) 725-1654.

[email protected] Community Coffee Community Coffee Company P.O. Box 2311 Baton Rouge, LA 70821 (800) 525-5583.