New Orleans Kitchens Part 1

New Orleans Kitchens.

Recipes from the Big Easy's Best Restaurants.

Stacey Meyer and Troy A. Gilbert.

Dedicated to the artists and chefs of New Orleans who made this book possible.

Acknowledgements.

New Orleans Kitchens was such an exciting project. We had the opportunity to meet some of New Orleans' most creative and interesting people. We want to acknowledge a few people in particular for their behind-the-scenes support.

Stacey's mom, Mary Ann Meyer, for being a great supporter, for contributing recipes, for testing recipes, and for being there during all the craziness.

Stephen Domas for his editorial skills and for his support.

Alyson Peters for submitting recipes and testing recipes for me.

Ken Berke for his amazing photographs of the art work-we should have used some of his photos as well.

Anna Minges for helping gather all of the images from The Ogden Museum and all of her hard work. She is an amazing woman.

Rick Gruber, one of the most knowledgeable people we have met regarding Southern art.

Leslie Spillman from Soren Christensen, Christy Wood and Denise R. Berthiaume from LeMieux-remarkable effort, Jonathon Ferrara for Art Docs, and Donna Cavato for The Edible Schoolyard Gardens. Not to mention, all the artists, galleries, and chefs who partic.i.p.ated in this book.

Foreword.

By Emeril J. Laga.s.se III.

When most people think of New Orleans, they think food, fun, and frivolity, with the madness of Mardi Gras and Bourbon Street coming to mind first and foremost. But when you take the time to scratch the surface even just a bit, however, or if your visit to this fair city enables you to linger a while and take in everything that the Big Easy has to offer, you quickly see that not only is there this fun and delicious element always simmering around town, but also so much more that is part of the fabric of everyday life here. What is it about this city that inspires the artist in all of us, whether chef, author, painter, or musician?

These are thoughts that I sometimes ponder, many years after New Orleans called to me to make my home here. Over the years I have fallen in love with the city in many different ways-and the love affair continues. When I first arrived here almost thirty years ago, it was the food that called me, but once here it was the people and the joyful way that New Orleanians live life that cemented the union. My craft as a cook grew more and more inspired as I learned some of the secrets of the bold, flavorful Creole and Cajun cooking. The architecture and pulse of the rich art scene in the Warehouse District was a natural home to my first restaurant venture, and the community embraced me much as I had their city. Years later, with much history behind us all, I still keep coming back to the beat of this incredible city, which truly feels like home to me in a way no other place ever has.

I invite you to take a stroll through the city with me-her tastes, her visions, her music, her inspirations and aspirations, by exploring the pages of New Orleans Kitchens. My good friend Stacey Meyer has knocked on many doors and has a.s.sembled some truly delicious recipes and gems of the local art scene to share a little bit of the magic of the city with us all.

Come see a bit of what the Crescent City is all about...

Introduction.

New Orleans is known as "The Crescent City." Shaped like a crescent and nestled on the banks of the Mississippi River, it was originally settled by the Spanish and French, and their influence is still reflected today in its culture, cuisine, and architecture. Throughout the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, people from France, Italy, Ireland and Germany, and more recently Vietnam, emigrated to the city, each bringing with them their unique heritage and traditions. In many ways, New Orleans is the melting pot of the South. It is a city that has a rich history and its diversity is reflected in its music, cuisine, arts, and architecture. As a port city, people of all walks of life flowed in and out of the community. Historically, the South was mainly rural with just a few cosmopolitan cities. New Orleans, Charleston and Savannah were the centers for arts and culture, but New Orleans had more of a Bohemian quality. New Orleans has always been considered the true southern mecca for musicians, writers, and artists. Its sultry and romantic atmosphere beckons quirky characters drawn to its allures. Artists draw inspiration from its landscape, architecture and people, while chefs draw inspiration from its unique and diverse cuisine and natural bounty of seafood or produce. Artists, musicians, writers, and chefs are all stimulated by the sense of community in New Orleans and are inspired by each other.

Southerners and Northerners alike flock to New Orleans for its music festivals; the Jazz and Heritage Festival being the main draw. Music is an inherent part of the city's soul with its gospel brunches and jazz funerals. In the spring, just before Mardi Gras, you can hear the high school bra.s.s bands practicing before performing in the parades. Walking through the French Quarter, trumpets and saxophones resonate in the street. New Orleans is famous for jazz and blues, but all forms of music can be found emanating from its many clubs and bars. There are endless venues for music, including such iconic establishments as Tipitina's and the Maple Leaf. Like everything else in New Orleans, its music has its own unique style and rhythm.

The cuisine of New Orleans is unlike anywhere else in the world. It is deeply rooted in the diverse heritage of the city. Jambalaya, for example, is a rice dish made with shrimp, chicken, and sausage, reminiscent of its Spanish culinary cousin paella. While gumbo is heavily influenced by the city's West African heritage, other famous dishes such as beignets and Trout Meuniere Amandine come from France. With so many cultures converging in one spot, it is no wonder the food is as diverse and unique as it is delectable. Another key factor to the city's famous foods is the resources New Orleans and southern Louisiana have available. The Gulf of Mexico provides shrimp, blue crabs, and an endless list of fish. Louisiana cultivates more oysters than anywhere else in the country. The more exotic ingredients like alligator, crawfish, and frog's legs are also cultivated throughout southern Louisiana. This state is also known as "sportsman's paradise," where hunting and fishing are not just sports, but ways of life pa.s.sed down through generations. There are innumerable cookbooks published in Louisiana dedicated to wild game that provide recipes for ducks, doves, venison, rabbits, squirrel, and possum. Fruit trees are grown in gardens and backyards throughout New Orleans. Pecan trees grow throughout the state, and rice and sugar cane are agricultural staples.

Louisiana natives love these heritage foods and the chefs of New Orleans prominently showcase them in their restaurants. New Orleanians love to eat, cook, and talk about food. It is an integral part of the city's culture.

Food in New Orleans, though based in tradition, has grown, expanded and evolved. It was once thought there were only five dishes in New Orleans: gumbo, crawfish etouffee, jambalaya, red beans and rice, and po' boys. Chefs, such as Paul Prudhomme, brought national attention to Cajun food and Emeril Laga.s.se wowed the nation with his exuberance and love for New Orleans and its cuisine. New Orleans has always had its stalwart restaurants. Galatoire's, Arnaud's, Brennan's, and Commanders Palace still serve the traditional dishes in grand style. As new chefs come to New Orleans from across the country and the world, they bring with them creative twists on old ideas. These talented new chefs are creating a fresh New Orleans cuisine that is innovative and exciting. Chefs like John Besh, Scott Boswell, and Allison and Slade Rushing are setting new standards with their bright style and creative menus.

After Hurricane Katrina devastated large swaths of the city in 2005, there was some worry that restaurants would have a hard time re-opening due to a lack of demand and staffing issues. While there were difficulties to overcome, New Orleans actually has more restaurants now than ever before. More boutique-style eateries have opened throughout town. Historically, if you wanted a sandwich, you were limited to a traditional po' boy, but with the opening of such eateries as St. James Cheese Shop and Stein's Market and Deli, you can enjoy more cheese-centric salads and sandwiches, as well as New York-style deli sandwiches. Parisian-style pastry shops such as Sucre, and Italian-style gelaterias have opened post-Katrina and offer their patrons delectable treats. There has also been an influx of Mexican and Central Americans to the city since Katrina, bringing with them their own traditional culinary styles and dishes. New Orleans is not just gumbo and po' boys any more.

One aspect of New Orleans culture that is often overlooked is its amazing art scene. For a small city, there is a huge art community. New Orleans draws artists from all over the world. Traditionally, most of the art galleries were located in the French Quarter where artists lived and worked. As the art community grew, galleries began popping up in other neighborhoods, such as the Warehouse District. Also known as the Arts District, the Warehouse District was home to the 1984 World's Fair. Though not a huge financial success for the city, the fair brought attention and helped to revitalize and preserve this historic neighborhood. A huge proponent for this urban renewal was chef Emeril Laga.s.se who opened his flagship restaurant in the heart of the district. Emeril was an urban pioneer and encouraged people to follow his lead. The old buildings and warehouses proved to be a perfect setting for showing and storing art. As more restaurants and galleries opened, the old warehouses were turned into New Yorkstyle lofts. Julia Street, at the heart of the Arts District, is home to more than twenty-five art galleries. The Contemporary Arts Center is located just a few blocks away, housed in an old pharmaceutical warehouse. In 2003, the Ogden Museum of Southern Art opened just across the street.

The Ogden Museum houses an extensive collection of art from around the South. The museum was the culmination of the vision of Roger Houston Ogden, an avid collector of Southern art. As his collection grew, so did his desire to make it available to the public. Mr. Ogden was an advocate of bringing recognition to Southern art and architecture, and was just as dedicated to the education of the rest of the nation. The Ogden Museum is quite a modern structure, made of smooth stone and expansive walls of gla.s.s. It sits directly next to the 1889 Patrick F. Taylor Library. The library is the only structure of its kind in the South designed by Louisiana native H. H. Richardson. The library is scheduled to reopen after renovation and will house eighteenth and nineteenth century works.

The contemporary building, known as Stephen Goldring Hall, appropriately houses the more modern works and The Ogden Museum is an example of an inst.i.tution adding panache to this still up and coming neighborhood.

The juxtaposition of old and new signifies the evolution of not just the art and culinary community of New Orleans, but of New Orleans itself. More so than ever, New Orleans is striving for a harmonious balance of tradition and modern, progressive and historic; and nowhere is that more evident than in its art and cuisine. New Orleans Kitchens represents the traditional art and food of New Orleans, and showcases its ever evolving contemporary manifestations.

Appetizers.

White Truffle Bean Dip.

Recipe courtesy of Tom Wolfe from Peristyle.

3 tablespoons Plugra b.u.t.ter 1 carrot 1 onion, halved 1 stalk celery 1 bay leaf 3/4 teaspoon chopped garlic 2 sprigs fresh thyme 1 pound white beans, rinsed and picked through 1-1/2 quarts vegetable stock 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon Creole mustard 1 tablespoon lemon juice White truffle oil to taste In a 4-quart saucepot, melt the b.u.t.ter until bubbly; add the carrot, onion, celery, and bay leaf and sautee until tender but not brown. Add the garlic, thyme, white beans, vegetable stock, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil then turn the heat down and allow the beans to simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour. The beans should be slightly overcooked. Allow the beans to cool slightly and then remove the carrot, onion, celery, bay leaf, and thyme. Puree the beans in a blender until smooth. Pa.s.s the puree through a fine sieve. Add the Creole mustard, lemon juice, and white truffle oil. Serve with toasted bread or crackers.

Serves 4 to 6 Creole Tomato Bruschetta Recipe courtesy of Scott Snodgra.s.s from One.

4 ripe Creole or heirloom tomatoes, seeded and diced*

1 teaspoon chopped garlic 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1/4 cup basil, chiffonade 1tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 to 2 teaspoons kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and mix thoroughly. Serve with toast points or your favorite crackers.

Serves 6 * Any ripe tomato may be subst.i.tuted.

Marinated Kalamata Olives Recipe courtesy of Tom Wolfe from Peristyle.

2 cups kalamata olives, pitted and drained 2 shallots, minced 1 teaspoon chopped thyme 2 teaspoons chopped basil 1 teaspoon chopped oregano 1 teaspoon chopped Italian parsley 1/2 teaspoon chopped rosemary 1 teaspoon chopped garlic Juice of 2 lemons 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and marinate for at least 2 hours before serving. Serve with toothpicks.

Serves 6 to 8 Crab Phyllo Triangles Recipe courtesy of Mary Ann Meyer.

1-3/4 cups unsalted b.u.t.ter, divided 1 bunch scallions, minced 1 clove garlic, minced 1 small yellow onion, diced small 8 ounces cream cheese, softened 1 pound lump crabmeat, cleaned 2 eggs, slightly beaten 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce 1 package phyllo dough, defrosted Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

In a medium sautee pan, melt 1/4 cup b.u.t.ter over low heat. Add the scallions, garlic, and onion and sautee until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the cream cheese, stirring until completely melted. Add crabmeat, eggs, lemon juice, and Tabasco sauce. Stir until all ingredients are well incorporated.

Melt the remaining b.u.t.ter in a small saucepan or in the microwave. Cut the phyllo dough into 3-inch-wide strips. Use 1 strip at a time, keeping other strips covered with a damp cloth until ready to use. Brush 1 strip of dough with melted b.u.t.ter. Place 1 tablespoon crabmeat mixture on one end of the strip. Fold one edge of the dough over mixture to form a triangle; continue folding like you would fold a flag. Place the triangle on a baking sheet and brush with a little melted b.u.t.ter. Repeat this process until all of the filling has been used. Any leftover phyllo dough may be refrozen. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes.

Serves 6 to 8 Mini Crawfish Pies Recipe courtesy of Stacey Meyer.

1/4 cup canola oil 3/4 cup flour 1/2 cup minced green bell pepper 1/3 cup minced yellow onion 1-1/2 cups heavy cream 3/4 cup b.u.t.ter 3/4 cup thinly sliced scallions 2 cloves garlic, minced 1-1/2 pounds Louisiana crawfish tails, roughly chopped 1 tablespoon salt 3/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes 3/4 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon file powder 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 1/4 teaspoon dried basil 1/4 teaspoon Paul Prudhomme's Seafood Seasoning 24 mini tart sh.e.l.ls (2-inch diameter) Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

In a large saucepan over medium heat, add oil; when hot, add flour and make a dark roux, stirring constantly so it does not burn. When the roux is dark brown, add the bell pepper and onion. Cook for about 3 minutes to just sweat the vegetables. Add the cream and bring to a simmer.

In a separate pan, melt b.u.t.ter over medium heat; add the scallions, garlic, and crawfish and then cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Add all the seasonings and combine the crawfish with the cream mixture; simmer another 20 to 25 minutes. Fill the tart sh.e.l.ls with about 2 tablespoons of the crawfish mixture. Bake for 15 minutes, or until the sh.e.l.ls are fully cooked. Serve warm.

Yields 24 mini pies Warm Crabmeat Dip Recipe courtesy of Mary Ann Meyer.

1/2 cup b.u.t.ter 1/2 cup minced scallions 1/4 cup chopped parsley 2 tablespoons flour 2 cups whole milk 8 ounces cream cheese 1 pound lump crabmeat, cleaned 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper In a medium saucepan, melt b.u.t.ter over medium-low heat. When b.u.t.ter begins to bubble, add scallions and parsley; cook for 3 minutes, or until scallions are translucent. Add flour and stir to coat vegetables; add milk and cook for 5 minutes. Add cream cheese and stir until blended. Add crabmeat and seasonings, stirring well; cook over low heat until the crabmeat is hot. Serve in a chaffing dish with warm bread, or serve individually on slices of toasted baguette.

Serves 6 to 8 Louisiana Oysters and Tequila Lime Granita Recipe courtesy of Chuck Subra from La Cote Bra.s.serie.

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar 1/4 cup tequila 2 tablespoons sugar Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 24 Louisiana oysters on the half sh.e.l.l In a small bowl, combine the lime juice, rice wine vinegar, tequila, and sugar. Whisk these ingredients together and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour liquid into a baking dish and place in the freezer over night. Occasionally, stir the mixture.

Serve the oysters on the half sh.e.l.l. Remove the granita from the freezer and, using a spoon, shave the ice. Place 1 teaspoon of the granita on each oyster. Serve chilled.

Serves 4 to 6 Mahi Mahi Ceviche Recipe courtesy of Alyson Peters.

1 pint grape tomatoes, halved 2 cuc.u.mbers, seeded and quartered 1 red bell pepper, diced small 1 Vidalia onion, diced small 3 pounds mahi mahi, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 6 limes, juiced 2 naval oranges, juiced 1/2 cup chopped cilantro 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper to taste Mixed greens 1 ripe avocado, diced Combine all of the ingredients except for the mixed greens and avocado and refrigerate for 24 hours. Serve mixture on a bed of mixed greens with the avocado sprinkled over top.

Serves 6 to 8 Tuna Poke Recipe courtesy of Chuck Subra from La Cote Bra.s.serie.

2 pounds raw tuna loin 3 tablespoons sesame oil 3 tablespoons soy sauce 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 2 tablespoons hot sauce 4 ounces seaweed salad*

Sea salt 1 English cuc.u.mber Dice raw tuna into 1/4- to 1/2-inch pieces. In a small bowl, combine sesame oil, soy sauce, ginger, and hot sauce. Whisk well and then fold in diced tuna and seaweed salad; season with sea salt and let marinate for 5 to 10 minutes.

Slice the English cuc.u.mber into 1/8-inch rounds. Top each cuc.u.mber slice with 2 teaspoons of the marinated tuna and serve immediately.

Serves 6 to 8 * Seaweed salad is a premade mix and can be purchased at Asian markets, from your local sushi restaurant, or at Whole Foods health food markets.

Oysters Rockefeller Recipe courtesy of Brian Landry, Executive Chef Galatoire's Restaurant, from Galatoire's: Biography of a Bistro, by Marda Burton and Kenneth Holditch (Hill Street Press).

3/4 cup chopped fennel (bulb only) 1/4 cup chopped leeks (green and white parts) 1/4 cup finely chopped curly parsley 1/4 cup finely chopped green onions, green and white parts 1/4 cup chopped celery 1/4 cup ketchup 1-1/2 cups cooked and drained chopped frozen spinach 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves 1 teaspoon ground anise 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1/4 cup Herbsaint liqueur 1 cup melted b.u.t.ter 1/2 cup seasoned dried breadcrumbs 12 cups rock salt 6 dozen oysters on the half sh.e.l.l 12 lemon wedges Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a food processor, combine the fennel, leeks, parsley, green onions, celery, ketchup, spinach, salt, white pepper, cayenne pepper, thyme, anise, Worcestershire, and Herbsaint. Puree the mixture thoroughly. Using a rubber spatula, sc.r.a.pe the contents of the food processor into a large mixing bowl. Stir in the b.u.t.ter and the breadcrumbs, making sure the mixture is well blended.

Pour enough rock salt into twelve 8-inch cake pans to cover the bottoms of pans. Arrange 6 oysters in their half sh.e.l.ls in each pan.

Fill a pastry bag with the puree and pipe the sauce over each oyster. Or use a tablespoon to distribute the sauce.

Place the pans in the oven and bake for 5 minutes, or until the sauce sets. Turn the heat up to broil and broil the oysters for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the tops are bubbling. It may be necessary to bake the oysters in batches.

Line each plate with cloth napkins that have been folded into neat squares. Nestle the pans of oysters within the folded napkins. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve at once.

Serves 12 Steamed c.o.c.ks...o...b..Ginger Crawfish Dumplings Recipe courtesy of Matt Guidry from Meauxbar.

Dumpling Filling 3 tablespoons canola oil 1/4 cup minced garlic 1/4 cup minced fresh ginger 1 pound crawfish tail meat (preferably Louisiana), drained and coa.r.s.ely chopped 3/4 teaspoon nuoc nam (fish sauce) 1/4 cup oyster sauce 1 tablespoon sambal oelek Pinch of sugar 1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves 1/2 cup chopped green onion, tops only 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 package square or round wonton wrappers 1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water Sesame Soy Dipping Sauce 1/4 cup rice vinegar 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon minced green onion, tops only 1/2 cup soy sauce Pinch of sugar In a medium sautee pan, place the canola oil over high heat; cook the garlic and ginger until golden. Add crawfish tail meat, fish sauce, oyster sauce, sambal oelek, and sugar. Cook 1 minute to remove excess moisture. Add cilantro, green onions, and sesame oil, stirring well to combine; remove from heat. Spread filling mixture onto a sheet pan, allowing any excess moisture to escape; cool thoroughly.

Place a wonton wrapper on a work surface and spoon in 1 tablespoon of the filling. Brush wrapper edges with egg wash and fold in half to form a semicircle. Pinch edges together to seal and make pleats. Alternately, place a wonton wrapper in a Gow Gee Press* and put the filling in the center. Brush edges of wrapper with egg wash and close press firmly to seal edges. Steam dumplings for 4 minutes and serve immediately with the Sesame Soy Dipping Sauce.

To make the dipping sauce, combine all ingredients together and mix well.

Serves 8 and yields 40 dumplings * A Gow Gee Press can be purchased at the World Market. This press is not necessary, it just makes it easier.

b.l.o.o.d.y Mary Shrimp and Pickled Mirliton Ceviche Recipe courtesy of Chuck Subra from Cote Bra.s.serie.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil 5 pounds Louisiana shrimp (peeled) 6 ounces vodka 2 mirliton, diced small (also known as chayote) 1 red onion, diced small 2 limes, juiced 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon Tabasco sauce 1 bottle (32 ounces) b.l.o.o.d.y Mary Mix Sea salt and black pepper In a medium sautee pan over high heat, add vegetable oil and then heat the shrimp and cook thoroughly; remove from heat and chill.

In a medium mixing bowl, combine the chilled shrimp, vodka, mirliton, onion, lime juice, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, and b.l.o.o.d.y Mary Mix. Season to taste with sea salt and black pepper and then refrigerate over night.

Serves 8 Peppadew Poppers Recipe courtesy of Bob Iacaovone from Cuvee.

10 peppadew peppers*

3 ounces goat cheese 10 slices serrano ham or prosciutto, thinly sliced Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Stuff each pepper with some goat cheese and then wrap each with prosciutto. Bake in the oven until crisp, about 3 to 4 minutes. Serve warm.

Serves 4 * Peppadew peppers are pickled peppers from South Africa. They are sold in a jar or in the olive bar section of your grocery store. They are about the size of cherry tomatoes, bright red, sour, sweet, and spicy. They can also be found at gourmet markets or online.

Char-Grilled Oysters with Roquefort Cheese and Red Wine Vinaigrette Recipe courtesy of Scott Snodgra.s.s from One.

2 bunches scallions, sliced 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 1 tablespoon chopped shallot 1/8 cup honey 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 cup olive oil 2 cups crumbled Roquefort cheese 2 lemons, juiced 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1/2 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes 3 dozen oysters on the half sh.e.l.l In a large bowl, mix together all the ingredients except the oysters, trying not to break up the cheese too much; set aside.

Prepare a hot grill. Charcoal is preferred, but a gas grill is fine as long as it is hot. When grill is hot, place oysters in the half sh.e.l.l directly on the grill and ladle 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette on each oyster. Grill for about 3 to 4 minutes, or until the oysters plump up and their edges begin to curl. Serve immediately.

Serves 6 New Orleans Fermented Black Bean BBQ Shrimp Recipe courtesy of Steve Schwarz of Mat and Naddies.

4 ounces or 1/4 cup fermented black beans*

1 tablespoon sesame oil 2 tablespoons minced ginger 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1/4 cup sliced scallions 1/4 cup minced shallot 1 lemon, zested and juiced 1/2 cup Worcestershire sauce 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1-1/2 teaspoons black pepper 1-1/2 teaspoons sambal oelek 1/2 cup ketchup 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1/4 cup vegetable oil, divided 2 pounds large shrimp, head on 1/2 pound b.u.t.ter Rinse black beans to remove salt and drain.

In a medium sautee pan over medium heat, add the sesame oil; sweat the ginger, garlic, scallions, shallot, and lemon zest until very soft, about 3 to 4 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce; add the and brown sugar. Season with black pepper and sambal (more may be added than called for depending on the amount of heat desired). Add the ketchup and sesame oil and cook for 10 to 15 minutes.

In a heavy cast-iron skillet, heat half of the vegetable oil and add about half of the shrimp to the pan. When the shrimp start to turn pink, add about one-half of the black bean sauce and continue to cook until the shrimp are almost done. Add the b.u.t.ter and stir continuously while b.u.t.ter melts. You may need to add a little water if the sauce gets too thick. Continue cooking the shrimp in batches with the remaining oil until all have been cooked. Serve with Jasmine rice and Chinese vegetables.

Serves 4 * Can be purchased in Asian markets. Prepared black bean sauce, such as Lee k.u.m Kee brand, can be subst.i.tuted. It can be found in the Asian section of many grocery stores.