Narrative of the surveying voyages of His Majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle Part 40

Of the anchorages between Port Famine and Cape Froward, the only convenient one for a ship is St. Nicholas Bay, to which, if defeated in pa.s.sing round the Cape, she had better return; for it is easy to reach as well as to leave, and extremely convenient for stopping at, to await an opportunity of proceeding.

From Cape Froward to the westward, unless favoured by a fair wind, it is necessary to persevere and take advantage of every opportunity of advancing step by step. There are several anchorages that a ship may take up, such as Snug Bay, off Woods Bay, near Cape Coventry, in Fortescue Bay, Elizabeth Bay, and York Roads. To the westward, in Crooked Reach, the anchorages are not so good, and excepting Borja Bay, none seem to offer much convenience.

Borja Bay, however, is well calculated to supply the deficiency, although for a square-rigged vessel there must be some difficulty in reaching it.

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Long Reach is both long and narrow, and ill supplied with anchorages for a ship; such as they are, Swallow Harbour, Playa Parda, Marian Cove, and Half Port Bay, seem to be the best. In thick weather, although the channel is very narrow, yet one side is scarcely visible from the other, and the only advantage it has over other parts of the strait is the smoothness of the water. In Sea Reach there is a heavy rolling swell, with a short and deep sea, which renders it very difficult to beat to windward.

Tamar Harbour, Valentine Harbour, Tuesday Cove, and the Harbour of Mercy, are the best anchorages; and the latter is particularly convenient to occupy, while awaiting an opportunity of sailing out of the strait.

In the entrance, the sea runs very heavy and irregularly during and after a gale; so that a ship should not leave her anchorage in the Harbour of Mercy, without a fair or a leading wind to get her quickly through it.

For small vessels, particularly if they be fore-and-aft rigged, many, if not all of the local difficulties vanish; and inlets which a ship dare not or cannot approach, may be entered with safety, and anchorage easily obtained by them. A large ship will perhaps be better off in entering and leaving the Strait where there is open s.p.a.ce and frequently a heavy sea; but for the navigation of the Strait, a small vessel has considerably the advantage. She has also the opportunity of pa.s.sing through the c.o.c.kburn Channel should the wind be north-westerly, which will very much reduce the length of the pa.s.sage into the Pacific.

One very great advantage to be derived from the pa.s.sage through the Strait is, the opportunity of obtaining as much wood and water as can be required, without the least difficulty; and another benefit is, that by hauling the seine during the summer months, from January to May, at the mouth of the river or along the beaches in Port Famine, at the first quarter flood, a plentiful supply of fish may be obtained. Excellent fish are also caught at the anchorage with the hook and line, at all seasons, early in the morning or late in the {471} evening. Fish may also be obtained with the seine at any other place where there are rivers. Freshwater Bay and Port Gallant are equally productive. On the outer coast of Tierra del Fuego an excellent fish may be caught in the kelp.

The advantage which a ship will derive from pa.s.sing through the Strait, from the Pacific to the Atlantic is very great; and it ought to be great to induce the seaman to entangle his ship with the land when fair winds and an open sea are before him. After pa.s.sing through the Strait, the prevailing winds being westerly, and more frequently from the northward than from the southward of west, they are fair for his running up the coast; or if not, the ship is not liable to receive much injury from the sea, which is comparatively smooth; whereas, to a ship pa.s.sing round the Horn, if the wind be north-west she must go to the eastward of the Falkland Islands, and be exposed to strong gales and a heavy beam sea, and hug the wind to make her northing. To a small vessel the advantage is incalculable; for, besides filling her hold with wood and water, she is enabled to escape the severe weather that so constantly reigns in the higher lat.i.tudes of the South Atlantic Ocean.

Coming from the northward, it will be advisable to keep an offing until the western entrance of the Strait is well under the lee, to avoid being thrown upon the coast to the northward of Cape Victory, which is rugged and inhospitable, and, forming as it were a breakwater to the deep rolling swell of the ocean, is for some miles off fringed by a cross hollow sea almost amounting to breakers.

The land of Cape Victory is high and rugged, and much broken; and if the weather be not very thick, will be seen long before the Evangelists, which are not visible above the horizon, from a ship's deck, for more than four or five leagues.[206] Pa.s.s to the southward of them, and steer for Cape Pillar, {472} which makes like a high island. In calm weather do not pa.s.s too near to the cape, for the current sometimes sets out, and round the cape to the southward; but with a strong wind, get under the lee of it as soon as you please, and steer along the sh.o.r.e. In the night it will be advisable to keep close to the land of the south sh.o.r.e; and if a patent log be used, which no ship should be without, your distance will be correctly known. The course along-sh.o.r.e, by compa.s.s, is E. S.; and if the weather be hazy, by keeping sight of the south sh.o.r.e, there will be no difficulty in proceeding with safety.

The Adventure entered the Strait on the 1st of April, 1830, at sunset; and after pa.s.sing within half a mile of the islets off the Harbour of Mercy, steered E. S. magnetic, under close-reefed topsails, braced by, the weather being so squally and thick that the land was frequently concealed from us; but being occasionally seen, the water being quite smooth, and the course steadily steered, with the patent log to mark the distance run, we proceeded without the least anxiety, although the night was dark, and the squalls of wind and rain frequent and violent. When abreast of Cape Tamar, that projection was clearly distinguished, as was also the land of Cape Providence, which served to check the distance shewn by the patent log; but both giving the same results, proved that we had not been subjected to any current; whereas the account by the ship's log was very much in error, in consequence of the violence of the squalls and the long intervals of light winds, which rendered it impossible to keep a correct account of the distance. At daybreak we were between Cape Monday and the Gulf of Xaultegua; and at eight o'clock we were abreast of Playa Parda, in which, after a calm day, the ship was anch.o.r.ed.

In the summer season there is no occasion to anchor any where, unless the weather be very tempestuous, for the nights are short, and hardly dark enough to require it, unless as a precautionary measure, or for the purpose of procuring wood and water; the best place for which is Port Famine, where {473} the beaches are strewed with abundance of logs of well-seasoned wood, which is very superior to the green wood that must otherwise be used.

Notwithstanding that the Adventure experienced no current in the western part of the Strait, there is generally a set to the eastward, which is more or less felt according to circ.u.mstances. The direction and strength of the currents are caused by the duration of the gales.

The chart will be a sufficient guide for vessels bound through from the westward as far as Laredo Bay; after which a few directions will be necessary. The land here should be kept close on board, to avoid the Reef off the south-west end of Santa Magdalena. Being abreast of it, bear away, keeping the N.E. extremity of Elizabeth Island on the starboard bow, until you see Santa Marta in one with, or a little to the southward of, the south trend of the Second Narrow (Cape St. Vincent), which is a leading mark for the fair channel until you pa.s.s the spit of shoal soundings, which extends across to Santa Magdalena. There are also shoal soundings towards the south-west end of Elizabeth Island; at half a mile off we had five fathoms,--Cape St. Vincent being then the breadth of Santa Marta open to the northward of that island. Keeping the cape just in sight to the northward of Santa Marta, steer on and pa.s.s round the low N.E. extremity of Elizabeth Island, off which are several tide eddies. The tide here sets across the channel.

Now steer for the Second Narrow, keeping Cape Gregory, which will be just discernible as the low projecting extreme of the north side of the Second Narrow, on the starboard bow, until you are three miles past Santa Marta; the course may then be directed for the cape, opening it gradually on the larboard bow as you approach it, to avoid the shoal that extends off it.

If you anchor in Gregory Bay, which is advisable, in order to have the whole of the tide for running through the First Narrow, haul up and keep at a mile and a half from the sh.o.r.e. When {474} the north extremity of the sandy land of the Cape is in a line with the west extreme of the high table-land, you will be near the anchorage; then shorten sail, and when the green slope begins to open, you will have fourteen fathoms: you may then anchor or keep away to the N.E., and choose a convenient depth, taking care not to approach the sh.o.r.e, so as to bring Cape Gregory to the southward of S. by W. W. (by compa.s.s). The best berth is with the Cape bearing S.S.W.

Hence to the First Narrow, the course by compa.s.s is due N.E. by E.[207] The land at the entrance being low, will not at first be perceived; but, steering on, you will first see some hummocky land, making like islands.

These are hills on the eastern, or Fuegian side of the Narrow. Soon afterwards, a flat, low sand-hill will be seen to the northward, and this is at the S.W. extremity of Point Barranca. On approaching the narrow, at four miles off, keep a cliffy head, four or five miles within the east side of the narrow, open of the trend of Point Barranca, by which you will avoid the shoal that extends off the latter point. You should not go into less depth than six fathoms. At most times of the tide there are long lines and patches of strong ripplings, through which you must pa.s.s. The shoal is easily distinguished by the kelp.

When the channel through the narrow bears by compa.s.s N. by E. E., steer through it; and that, or a N.N.E. course, will carry you through. On each side, the bank extends off for some distance; but by keeping in mid-channel, there is no danger until the cliffy coast be past, when reefs extend off either sh.o.r.e for some distance, particularly off Cape Orange.

The N.N.E. course must be kept until the peak of Cape Orange bears south, and the northern Direction Hill W.S.W., or W. by S. S. by compa.s.s. Then steer E.N.E. for Cape Possession, taking care not to approach too near to the bank {475} off Cape Orange, or to that on the north side of Possession Bay, for which the chart must be consulted.

For a small vessel, the pa.s.sage through the strait, from west to east, is not only easy, but strongly to be recommended as the best and safest route.

Indeed, I think the pa.s.sage would be quite as expeditious, and perhaps much safer, to enter the Gulf of Trinidad, and pa.s.s down the Concepcion Strait, the Sarmiento or St. Estevan Channels, and Smyth Channel, and enter the Strait at Cape Tamar. In these channels northerly winds prevail, and there is no want of convenient and well-sheltered anchorages for the night, many of which have already been mentioned, and mult.i.tudes of others, perhaps much better ones, might be found.

APPENDIX.

TABLES of LAt.i.tUDE and LONGITUDE, VARIATION of the COMPa.s.s, TIDE, and HEIGHT.

MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS, discussed by MAJOR SABINE, R.A., F.R.S.

ZOOLOGY; including MAMMALIA--BIRDS--and Sh.e.l.lS.

COPIES of ORDERS.

EXTRACTS from a PAPER published in the JOURNAL of the ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY.

EXTRACT from a GAME-BOOK.

INDEX.

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TABLES

OF

LAt.i.tUDE AND LONGITUDE, VARIATION OF THE COMPa.s.s, AND TIDE.

I.

COASTS OF BRAZIL, RIVER PLATA, AND EASTERN PATAGONIA.

The Lat.i.tudes to which the character * is prefixed, have resulted from Astronomical Observation. The Longitudes which have been determined by Chronometers, are designated by C.; and those by Lunar Distances by *).

Those without distinguishing marks are the result of Triangulation.

The Longitudes in the following Tables depend upon that of Villegagnon Island at Rio de Janeiro, which was found by fourteen Chronometers from Plymouth to be 43 05' 03" West of Greenwich.

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+----------------- Name of TIDE ---------------------------+ -----+----------- Direction H. W. of Flood, Place. Lat.i.tude Longitude Variat at and Rise Particular Spot. South. West. East. F.&W. of Tide.

---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- Coast of Brazil. ' " ' " ' H. M. ================ Santos a.r.s.enal *23 55 51 C.46 16 33 4 22 Moela Lighthouse *24 03 06 C.46 12 20 Alcatra.s.se Island Centre *24 08 10 C.45 39 15 Abrigo Island Centre *25 07 28 C.47 52 51 Figuera Island Centre *25 21 29 C.47 54 11 Paranagua Fort on the Bar *25 30 14 C.48 17 10 5 44 West Point of Cotinga *25 29 50 C.48 26 32 5 34 Church of Sta Antonina *25 25 42 C.48 39 52 St. Catherine Sta Cruz d'Anhatomirim *27 25 35 C.48 29 41 6 30 City, President's House *27 35 30 Cape St. Mary Extremity 34 40 20 C.54 05 58 ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- River Plata. ============ Gorriti Island Well at N.E. end *34 57 00 C.54 53 38 13 48 *)54 53 40 Monte Video Rat Island, Flagstaff *34 53 23 56 09 30 11 23 Cathedral, Cupola *34 54 37 56 07 35 12 07 Lighthouse on Mount *34 53 21 56 11 04 Buenos Ayres Cathedral 34 35 50 C.58 17 53 ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+----------- East Coast of Patagonia. ======================== Port Sta Elena Observy marked on Plan *44 30 45 C.65 17 25 19 10 4 0 17 feet Cape Two Bays Hill at projecting Point 44 58 00 Cape Blanco North Point 47 15 00 Port Desire Ruins *47 45 05 C.65 51 45 19 42 12 10 18 feet {480} Penguin Island Mount at North end 47 54 45 65 41 30 Sea Bear Bay North Sandy Beach at S. side *47 56 49 C.65 44 00 20 47 12 45 20 feet s.h.a.g Rock Rock 48 08 25 65 52 56 Watchman Cape Monte Video 48 18 55 66 18 00 Bellaco Rock Rock 48 30 50 C.66 09 25 Port St. Julian Northward s.h.a.g Island, in Harbour *49 16 00 C.67 38 02 22 17 10 30 rises 38 feet, (observed off the river's mouth.) Wood Mount 49 14 00 67 43 34 Cape Curioso 49 11 10 67 34 30 C. Franc. de Paulo Extremity 49 41 18 67 34 30 Santa Cruz Observatory opposite 68 25 00 20 54 10 15 33 feet Sea-Lion Island *50 06 43 C.68 22 42 Mount Entrance *50 08 30 68 19 10 Station up the River *49 57 30 68 52 55 ---- *50 07 30 69 08 00 Broken Cliff Peak Brink 50 14 30 68 31 15 12 15 Northw.

Lion Mount Summit 50 20 00 68 49 30 Observation Mt. Summit *50 32 35 69 00 40 Coy Inlet Height on South side *50 58 27 69 06 50 9 30 of Entrance C.69 05 17 Station up the Inlet 51 06 30 69 24 10 Cape Sanches Extremity 51 06 56 69 03 30 Tiger Mount Summit 51 21 36 69 01 50 C.69 03 28 C. Fairweather South extreme. 51 32 05 68 55 15 9 0 N.W.28 feet Gallegos River Observatory Mound *51 33 21 68 57 50 21 47 8 50 46 feet C.68 56 42 North Hill ---- 51 49 56 69 24 30 Friars Smallest & Northernm. 51 49 12 69 10 00 Largest & Southernm. 51 50 08 69 09 00 Convents Northern 51 52 09 69 18 40 Southern 51 53 01 69 17 00 ---------------------------+---------+----------+------+-----+

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TABLE II.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS,