Narrative of a Survey of the Intertropical and Western Coasts of Australia Volume I Part 28

Having obtained sights on the beach at Cape Clinton for the time-keepers we sailed out of this port by the same track that we entered; and held our course to the northward towards the Northumberland Islands.

At midnight we were abreast of the Percy Islands.

July 23.

At noon the next day we pa.s.sed to the westward of the islet, marked kl, and thence steered between the Three Rocks and k2, and, before sunset, were near l2, the island on which Captain Flinders landed.

July 24.

The night was pa.s.sed under sail and at daylight, when we resumed our course towards the c.u.mberland Islands, Linne Peak and Shaw's Peak, and the land about Capes Hillsborough and Conway were seen. At noon we were off Pentecost Island.

Hence we steered to the northward within a string of rocky islets. On pa.s.sing this part, some natives came down to a point, and kindled a fire to attract our attention. At four o'clock in the evening we rounded the north extreme of the c.u.mberland Islands; and by sunset obtained a set of bearings to connect the present survey with that of last year. A lofty peak on the main, distinctly visible from all parts, particularly from Repulse Bay, was named after the late Jonas Dryander, Esquire; it was ascertained to be 4566 feet high.

The c.u.mberland Islands are all high and rocky and are covered on their windward or south-east sides with stunted timber and pine-trees; but the leeward sides, being sheltered from the wind, are generally well clothed with gra.s.s and timber. The pine-trees on these islands do not appear to be of large dimensions but several vessels have cut spars upon the islands near the south end of Whitsunday Pa.s.sage, large enough for topmasts and bowsprits for vessels of 400 tons burthen. It is not probable that larger spars can be obtained: they are very tough, but full of knots; and, when carried away by the wind, break short without splintering.

July 25.

We pa.s.sed Capes Gloucester and Upstart during the night and early part of the next morning. Between the latter cape and the low projection of Cape Bowling-green, we experienced an in-draught of three-quarters of a knot per hour. This also occurred last year; and it should be guarded against by ships pa.s.sing by: for the land about the latter cape is so low that it cannot be seen at night.

From the period of our entering among the Northumberland Islands, the weather, although fine, had been more than usually hazy; the wind during the day blew moderately from South by East and South, and veered towards night to South-East by East and East-South-East; but when we pa.s.sed Cape Cleveland it blew a fresh breeze, and was so very hazy that we could not take advantage of our vicinity to the coast by verifying or improving any part of our former survey, except the outer or seaward side of the Palm Island Group, near which we pa.s.sed in the evening.

July 26.

The next morning we were off the southernmost Barnard's Island, and as the coast between Double Point and Fitzroy Island had not been satisfactorily laid down on the previous examination of this part, we steered near the sh.o.r.e in order to improve it; but the land was much overcast and the summits of b.e.l.l.e.n.den Ker's Range were so enveloped in clouds that very little improvement was effected.

A breeze, however, in the evening from South-East dispersed the vapours that had collected during the day on the sea horizon. In pa.s.sing outside of Fitzroy Island, a sandbank situated nine miles East 1/2 South from the island was noticed, and other banks were reported from the masthead; but on my going up I saw nothing more than a bright appearance on the horizon, which is however an indication of their existence that seldom failed in being correct, whenever an opportunity offered of proving it.

Bearing up between Cape Grafton and Green Island we steered North-West 1/2 North, by compa.s.s to make the Low Isles in Trinity Bay. The weather was thick and misty with showers of rain; but, as a sight of these islands was of consequence in crossing this bay, we continued to steer for them, and at midnight they were seen. This enabled us to direct the course with more confidence towards Cape Tribulation over Captain Cook's track.

July 27.

At daylight we were off the cape and soon pa.s.sed to the eastward of the Hope Islands; between which and Endeavour River we had an opportunity of laying down the reefs in the offing, particularly that on which the Endeavour struck, and which so nearly proved fatal to her enterprising commander and his companions.

As it was our intention to visit Endeavour River to complete our former observations for the determination of its longitude, we hauled in for the land and upon reaching the entrance, with which I was sufficiently acquainted, steered over the bar on which the least water was ten feet, and secured the cutter to the beach on the same spot occupied at our last visit.

Being anxious to see what change had taken place during an absence of twelve months, our steps were naturally first directed to the spot where our boat had been built; the remains of our encampment were still visible, and the carpenter's bench was exactly in the same state as it had been left: the Mermaid's name, which had been carved on a tree, was also legible; but in a short time would have been defaced by the young bark which had already nearly covered it. Upon visiting our former watering place we were mortified to find that it was quite dried up; and this may probably account for the absence of natives, for there was not a single vestige of their presence on this side of the port; but as large fires were burning at the back of the north sh.o.r.e it was presumed they were in that direction. On setting fire to the gra.s.s to clear a s.p.a.ce for our tent, it was quickly burnt to the ground, and the flames continued to ravage and extend over the hills until midnight.

July 28.

The following day we erected tents and commenced some repairs to the jolly-boat, which was hauled up in the usual place; the other two boats were sent to the north end of the long sandy beach on the opposite side to examine the state of the rivulet which we had noticed there last year.

On their return they reported it to be still running with a plentiful stream; and although it was rather inconvenient, from the beach being exposed to the swell and surf, yet our boats made daily trips to it without any ill consequences, notwithstanding one of them was once swamped in loading; it did not however sustain any injury.

Another stream of water was subsequently found on the south side, a little without the entrance of the harbour, but too brackish for the purposes of drinking; it was therefore merely used during our stay for the common purposes of washing and cooking.

Whilst our people were thus employed I was a.s.sisted by Mr. Roe at the observatory. As the particulars of our observations for this and the preceding years are inserted in the Appendix it will be sufficient here merely to record the position of the observatory; it was situated on the south sh.o.r.e opposite the low sandy north point; and was found to be in:

Lat.i.tude: 15 degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds.

Longitude: 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds.

Variation of the compa.s.s: 5 degrees 13 3/4 minutes East.

Dip of the south end of the Needle: 38 degrees.

High water at full and change: at eight o'clock.

July 29.

On the 29th Mr. Bedwell went to Captain Cook's Turtle Reef but he was unsuccessful in his search for that animal; neither did he find any sh.e.l.ls different from what we had previously seen; only a few clams (Chama gigas) were brought away, besides a small fish of the shark tribe (Squalus ocellatus, Linn.). At high water the reef was overflowed excepting at its north-west end where a patch of sand not larger than the boat was left dry. At low tide the key, or the ridge of rocks heaped up round the edge of the reef, was left dry and formed a barricade for the interior, which is occupied by a shallow lake of circular shape in which many small fish and some sharks were seen swimming about. It was from this reef that Captain Cook, during the repair of his ship, procured turtle for her crew; and, this being the same season, we were disappointed in not obtaining any. On the return of the boat she was placed in some danger from the number of whales, of the fin-back species, that were sporting about the surface of the water and occasionally leaping out of it and lashing the sea with their enormous fins.

July 30.

On the 30th, having hitherto carried on our occupation without seeing or hearing anything of the natives, whilst I was busily employed with Mr.

Roe in observing the sun's meridional alt.i.tude, I happened on looking round to espy five natives standing about forty or fifty yards off among the high gra.s.s watching our movements. As soon as they perceived we had discovered them they began to repeat the word itchew (friend) and to pat their b.r.e.a.s.t.s, thereby intimating that their visit had no hostile motive.

As the sun was rapidly approaching its meridian I called Mr. Bedwell from on board to amuse them until our observations were completed. The only weapons they appeared to carry were throwing-sticks, which we easily obtained in exchange for some grains of Indian corn.

A few words were obtained by Mr. Cunningham which served to confirm many we had possessed ourselves of last year; and which, being afterwards compared with the vocabulary of the New South Wales language given by Captain Cook, proves that he obtained it at Endeavour River. And here it is not a little curious to remark that, of the only two words which materially differ in the two accounts, one of them is the name of the kangaroo. This word was repeatedly used to them last year, as well as this, accompanied by an imitation of the leap of the animal, which they readily understood; but on repeating the word kangaroo they always corrected us by saying "men-u-ah." This animal has therefore been distinguished by a name which chance alone gave it; and not, as has always been supposed, from the term applied to it by the natives of the part where Captain Cook first saw it.

The resemblance of the words in the following vocabulary proves that the language of these people has not changed since Captain Cook's visit; and that in the term for kangaroo he has been mistaken.

COLUMN 1: ENGLISH WORD.

COLUMN 2: WORD ACCORDING TO OUR VOCABULARY.

COLUMN 3: WORD ACCORDING TO CAPTAIN COOK.

Kangaroo : Men-u-ah : Kangaroo.

Canoe : Mar-a-gan : Maragan.

Eye : Ca-ree, or Me-ell : Meul.

Nose : E-mer-da, or Po-te-er : Bon-joo.

Ear : Mil-kah : Melea.

Teeth : Mol-ear.

Knee : Bon-go : Pongo.

Toes : Eb-e-rah.

Navel : Tool-po-ra : Tool poor.

A quail : Kah-kee or Mool-lar.

Friend : It-chew.

Pigment : Wo-parr.

Feathers : Te-err.

Hair of the head : Mor-re-ah : Morye.

Beard : Wol-lah : Wallar.

Nipples : Coy-o-ber-rah : Cayo.

Fingers : Mun-gal-bah.

Elbow : Ye-er-we.

Huts : Ye-er-kah.

Go along, go away, or go on : Tattee or Tah-tee.

Among the presents made to them were some beads which they appeared to consider of little value; but what pleased them most was a bird that Mr.

Hunter shot previous to their appearance.

Their visit did not last longer than a quarter of an hour during which they were very pressing for us to accompany them; finding us however unwilling to trust ourselves in their power, for from our experience of their mischievous behaviour last year we had good reason to be suspicious of their intentions, they went away, but after walking a short distance, one of them returned, and stooping, picked up something with which he immediately slunk off, evidently with the hope of having escaped our notice: but in this he was disappointed; for Mr. Hunter and Mr.

Cunningham followed him and ascertained that he had returned to carry away his spear which had been concealed close at hand during their communication with our party; and by the limping gait of the rest it was probable that they all carried spears between their toes; a practice that has been frequently observed among the natives in many parts of New South Wales, when they wish to conceal their being armed; and which generally indicates a mischievous intention.

Shortly after their departure the country towards the back of the harbour was perceived to have been set on fire by them; as the wind was fresh the flames spread about in all directions; and in the evening our people being allowed to range about for amus.e.m.e.nt, increased the conflagration by setting fire to the surrounding gra.s.s; so that the whole surface was in a blaze.