Modern Persia Part 4

The fourth degree is called Mollah, and their office is the same as the Protestant elder. The Mohammedans have no preaching services such as we have except on holidays, when certain ceremonies are carried out. The Mol-lah visit the sick, call on families, teach them prayers and traditions and conduct funerals. Some of them teach children who come to them each day for instruction. Their meals are provided by the students who bring them some food, usually very choice each morning.

One dime a month is generally the tuition fee. In the fall his parishioners who are able give him a collection of provisions for the winter such as grapes, apples, wheat, fuel, etc. He is highly respected in the community and is always invited out to a feast in some private home on holidays. He writes doc.u.ments for the people for which he gets from two to ten cents, but the fee is often two or three eggs or a basket of fruit. This is the poor Mollah's only income. Some of them have no parish and do secular work for a living, others recite Koran on the tomb of a lord for which they are paid by the relatives of the deceased. I have seen one Mollah reciting Koran for fifteen years at the tomb of a noted army officer.

There are a cla.s.s of priests, more learned and devout, who work as the revivalists of their religion. On holidays, which are quite frequent, the mosques are crowded with worshipers, when one of these priests mounts an elevated pulpit with great ostentation and in an impressive voice begins to read or repeat Koran. He will chant traditions of the prophets and martyrs and relate pathetic stories of the n.o.ble sacrifices of departed heroes of the faith. His charming tones and utterances have much effect on his audience and men and women weep and beat their b.r.e.a.s.t.s.

THE GARMENTS OF MUJ-TA-HID.

The Muj-ta-hid wears underclothes of white linen, his long coat is made of woolen cloth. His outer cloak is a robe that hangs to the feet. This robe is quite expensive, being made of the fur of animals, and is dyed yellow. They believe it a duty to wear a robe of skin as a sign of meekness. The robes cost from $50 to $500. He wears a girdle of white linen in many folds. His turban is large and white. The light, heelless shoes cover only half of his feet. When he goes out he has a fine staff in his hand, the handle being of gold or silver. From ten to twenty servants accompany him, some stepping before, others after him. Men of all cla.s.s rise and salute him by bowing with their hands across their breast. Many men kiss the shoes of the high Muj-ta-hids.

THE PLACE OF SAY-YIDS IN MOHAMMEDANISM.

Mohammedanism is divided into two great sects:--viz. Shiites and Sunnites. Both hold Mohammed to be the Prophet and Savior of mankind and Koran to be the holy bible, written by the finger of G.o.d and given to Mohammed through the mediation of Gabriel. But they differ in their belief as to who are the true successors of Mohammed. Shiites claim that Ali the son-in-law and nephew of Mohammed was Caliph, while Sunnites contend that four disciples of Mohammed were his true successors. This difference led to war and bloodshed and gave rise to a permanent division in Mohammedanism.

Persia generally belongs to the Shiites tribe. They receive Ali as the Caliph after Mohammed. The descendants of Ali are therefore held in high esteem and rank in Persia. They are called Say-yids, which means prophets and masters and they have privileges that do not belong to common men. They are very zealous to perpetuate their own sect. From the time of Ali they have kept a careful record of their genealogy.

This book of testimony called Sajjara, is given from father to son and serves as a credential to the Say-yidical tribe. Each family must have in its possession a credential at least two hundred years old. When these are worn by age and use their leaders may draft copies and duly certify them.

The Say-yid's dress distinguishes him from other men. He wears a green turban and girdle, so that he is really known whether alone or in a throng. If a common man should presume to wear these articles of dress he would be severely punished. The Say-yid's turban is to them more precious than a kingly crown. It is the sign of their glory. The girdle is a symbol of strength. Their rank is higher than all other degrees among men and their high priest is more honored than a prince. So Say-yid ruleth over other men. He demands and receives their honors. In the a.s.semblies of lords and influential men, the Say-yid occupies the chief seats, and are always served first. Oaths of gravity are sworn by their heads. All men fear them, believing that their curse will surely be brought to pa.s.s. They are never smitten or reviled. If a Christian should lift his hand against them that hand must be severed from his body. They are exempt from legal punishment. Governors cannot impose on them fines or imprisonments. If a Say-yid should kill a common man it would be impossible to punish him with death for his murder. The governor cannot punish him for it would be a sin against G.o.d; it is believed that G.o.d created all men for the sake of Mohammed and his descendants. A Say-yid's punishment must come through the leader of that order.

Many vows are made to them. Parents when their daughters are sick, vow to marry them to a Say-yid, believing that G.o.d will cure her for the sake of the Say-yid. They generally ride on gray horses, claiming that those of that color belong to them. They lead the large pilgrim caravans, which go every year to worship at the tomb of Ali. Their presence is believed to protect the caravans from thieves and robbers.

Their law gives them authority over the property of other men. They are masters while others are peasants. Sometimes they smite and punish other men without mercy. By their law one-tenth of all property belongs to them. Generally they do not work, but live well, because of their position as Say-yids or holy men. The more n.o.ble of them will sit in their houses and receive t.i.thes of the fruits, coffee, tea and money of the surrounding people. If these t.i.thes are not freely given a servant will be sent with authority to demand and take same. The less n.o.ble of the Say-yids go personally to the homes vineyards and gardens and gather their portion. Sometimes there might be seen no less than ten Say-yids going to vineyards for this purpose. Generally they ask nothing from Christians, as their law restrains them and they are ashamed to ask of other religions.

I once met a Say-yid in my father's vineyard and he asked a portion. I refused, telling him that I myself was also a Say-yid _i.e._, a Christian Say-yid, and asked if one Say-yid should receive something from another. He laughed, and said: "yes sir, sometimes." I gave him three pounds of raisins. These Say-yids are in only the Shiites branch of Islam. In later years their honor is decreased; the government is against them. Some of them are very religious. Two of them in the city of Ispha-han were converted to Christianity and suffered martyrdom. One has been converted to Christianity in my city, Oroomiah. He is one of the most spiritual men among Christians.

THE DARWISHES.

Shiites Mohammedanism rests upon two pillars one of which is Darwishes.

This is one of the most holy orders of the Musalmans. It corresponds to the monasticism of Christianity. It contains several degrees, such as asceticism, mandicanism, etc. It is a volunteer consecration to Allah and his prophet, except in cases in which parents had dedicated their sons to the order. There are numerous instances in which women without children made a vow to Allah that if given a son they would consecrate him to G.o.d to be a Darwish. This order contains members from all cla.s.ses, high and low, rich and poor, and even from the royal family.

Celibacy is not required but they are taught that it is far better for them not to marry.

[Ill.u.s.tration: HIGH-CLa.s.s DERVISH.]

THEIR CHARACTER.

A Darwish is expected to be and usually is humble, kind and liberal, ready to serve any man. He must suffer all the trouble of life and live in an humble condition because this is holiness. He is required to be well informed in all religious stories, tradition, and Koran, and particularly in the poetical writings of Maw-le-wee order, which is their own order, founded by An-wa-ree the father of the Darwishes. Some of the members know from one to five thousand of these sacred poems.

Most of them are sufficiently educated to read. The Darwishes are the most faithful, honest and pure of all the followers of Mohammed. In all my life I have never heard of a single immoral Darwish. Some of them are very intelligent and well educated and familiar with all their religious rites. On the other hand they are very superst.i.tious, fanatical and ambitious to propagate their religion, believing it to be a true religion. They are free to discuss their faith with all men in a kind spirit. In a discussion with one of them he could not answer me but proposed that we prove the truth of our religion by both entering a burning fire, and the one who came out unharmed would have the true religion. I told him to enter the fire and if he was not burned I would believe in his religion and become a Mohammedan. He did not dare do it and was ashamed.

THE NATURE OF THEIR SERVICE.

The darwishes' work is to tell stories, tales and traditions during week days in the streets. Friday is holy day among Mohammedans and is to be observed in worshiping G.o.d. The darwishes begin at one o'clock P.M. on that day singing poems on the streets and continue until evening. Their poems are for the glory and honor of Mohammed and Ali, for they believe these two men were the supreme creation of G.o.d. One of their poems reads as follows:

"The first of creatures is Ali; the supreme of beings is Ali; the true calif of the prophet all is Ali; the lord of all the world is Ali; the lord of my soul is Ali."

The darwishes wear long hair, and a pointed orange shape cap, a cloak of patch work and a long white robe and in his right hand a tomahawk with a fancy handle with some poems written on the blade. In the other hand is held a kashkul for the collection of money. These are the rituals of his office. A dozen or more of them may be seen on every street, not far from each other, standing in front of the stores singing some poems for the praise of Ali in a loud voice, and with an earnest and enthusiastic spirit. Then he will pa.s.s his kashkul and the shopman will drop in it from one to three pennies and sometimes only a bit of sugar or ginger. Any gift is acceptable. One pa.s.sing in the streets hears voices of base, tenor, etc, some rough, some clear as the sound of a bell of gold making an attractive melody. Sometimes they sing two by two, one for the praise of Mohammed, the other for the praise of Ali. Once I heard a darwish singing a poem to the praise of Ali, and when he had finished another responded near by singing to the praise of Mohammed in the following words: "He (Mohammed) has attained to the supremacy of his personal holiness; he has enlightened the darkness by personal beauty; beautiful are all his deeds. The blessings of G.o.d be upon him and upon all his children." Some darwishes travel over all Persia, spending a short time in each city they visit doing their work.

The cap which the darwish wears has embroidered upon it a verse from Koran and signifies his consecration to the service of Allah. The kashkul is a box in which to collect money for the poor and sick. The white robe is a sign of purity. The sheepskin on his shoulder is a sign of meekness. The beads on his neck are to remind him of the duty of prayer. The tomahawk is a sign of war and victory for his prophet and Allah. Those who have excelled in their holy service go to their leader and he places on the skin of the right shoulder of the darwish an inscription which remains as a sign of consecration and honor.

There is a low cla.s.s of darwishes who are very ignorant, superst.i.tious and fanatical and are like beggars. They pitch their tents at the gates of rich people and will not go away until they have been satisfied with money. Sometimes a large crowd of this cla.s.s will gather in a mosque and spend several hours in howling unto Allah and the prophets until made weary by the exertion.

When the good darwish goes home Friday evening he will have gathered some money and also provisions, such as tea, coffee, sugar etc. He will keep for himself and family enough to last one week; the remainder is given to the poor.

THEIR PLACE IN MOHAMMEDAN RELIGION.

The darwish is highly respected by all cla.s.ses from the royal family to the most humble. No man dares to beat or lay hands on one of them, as it would be considered a great crime. In case a darwish does wrong or commits crime the government does not punish him but refers the matter to the leader of the order. Sometimes they are called Kallander, which means humble and holy men of Allah. They are exempted from paying tax and from military service. Many presents are given to them by the people. The salutation is different from the common people. The first says, "Ya-ho" which means: "O living G.o.d"; the response is "Ya-mal-ho,"

which means: "O G.o.d the Giver of life."

So it is plain that the darwishes are one of the two pillars that support Islamism. Thank G.o.d we have some darwishes converted to Christianity.

CHAPTER VI.

THE LAYMEN.

The laymen are divided into three cla.s.ses, viz., the counts, lords, middle cla.s.s and low cla.s.s.

The middle cla.s.s live mostly in towns and cities. Their occupation is merchandise; to carry goods to Europe and import goods into Persia.

Others are manufacturing carpets, rugs, etc. Others are iron-smiths, silver-smiths, carpenters, druggists, butchers, and masons. A great number are secretaries for lords, counts, and in military service. The life of this cla.s.s is very happy indeed. Their homes are quite comfortable, and kept in good order. Their tables are spread with enough of the good things to satisfy. This cla.s.s do none of the work that custom has a.s.signed to the lower cla.s.ses. Pride would not allow it. Custom requires them to have smooth hands--not always white, for some prefer to dye them red.

The women of the middle cla.s.s take life easy. They are not often allowed to go outside without permission of their husbands or mothers-in-law. In some instances the older ladies spend their time making rugs, shawls, and carpets--some of which are very beautiful and costly. The young ladies and brides spend their time in making caps, purses, head-covering, dresses, etc. Unmarried girls are positively required and it is the duty of her mother to teach her how to make rugs, carpets and embroidery work, etc. for her marriage. One of her first duties is to learn to dress herself handsomely. The face and brow will be colored with red and white paints. The eyes and eyebrows with black paint. The hands and feet are dyed with hana a kind of paint that colors them red.

[Ill.u.s.tration: HAREM COSTUME.]

COSTUMES AT HOME.

The shirt worn at home by woman is an article made of silk or cotton.

It is short, open breast, well embroidered, and is red or white and reaches to the middle of the thigh. Over the shirt is the cula-ja, rather loose, with long sleeves fastened with b.u.t.tons of silver.

The Shalwar is similar to the ordinary skirt only it is very short.

Some wear from three to ten of these skirts. The outer one is very rich and trimmed with gold lace. The head covering is called Char-Kat and is made square of a long embroidered article of fine silk or thin cotton and is fastened under her chin. Sometimes at home they are bareheaded.

Hose are white and long. The hair is generally black, heavy, braided and spread on her back. In front it is parted in the middle when bangs are not worn. The hair is usually painted to appear black and smooth.

HER JEWELRY.

The middle cla.s.s of women are fond of jewelry, but do not burden themselves with heavy ornaments as do some of the lower cla.s.s. They usually wear two or three finger rings, small earrings of gold, bracelets and necklace. There is frequently a large emerald, incased in gold, hanging from the necklace, bearing this inscription: "There is no G.o.d but Allah." Beautiful ornaments of gold and silver are attached to the ends of their braided hair.

When a wife has perfumed and adorned herself she will await the coming of her husband from his shop. She knows at what time he will return home. An hour before his coming she will go before the mirror to see if she is dressed beautifully enough to please her husband. Ten minutes before his arrival she will prepare a delicious Kalyon, (which is a smoke and water pipe.) Holding it in her hand she will rise and offer him the Kalyon, saying, "My lord, command your pleasure." He will take the pipe and smoke. While he is sitting she will sprinkle perfume on his head and clothes. For several minutes they exchange the pipe and smoke alternately. This is the first thing which a husband of the middle cla.s.s expects of his wife--not to work for him but to adorn herself and please him. It cannot be said that the Mohammedan does not love his wife. He buys her whatever she asks for; not because he considers her his equal, but for the sake of his own pleasure.

MEN'S COSTUME.