Mission Furniture Volume III Part 7

A portable window seat of neat appearance, which is designed to take the place of a cedar chest, is shown in the accompanying sketch. If care is taken to make the joints fit well, the box will be practically airtight and mothproof, providing a place in which to store extra bedding or furs. The following list of materials will be needed:

36 ft. 1-in. thick cedar boards for the box.

1 piece pine, 2 by 2 in. by 12 ft. long.

32 ft. of 1/4 by 2-in. oak strips.

54 ft. of 1/4 by 1-in. oak strips.

16 doz. R.H. 3/4-in, long bra.s.s screws.

1 piece green burlap, 24 by 48 in.

2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 44 in.

2 pieces green burlap, 20 by 20 in.

20 pieces red burlap, 3-1/4 in. square.

The box as shown in Fig. 1 is made first. Nail the sides and the bottom to the ends, being careful to get the box perfectly square. The corners can be dovetailed together if desired. The extra time it takes in making the dovetailed joints will greatly add to the durability of the box. The box can be made much stronger by nailing the sides and ends to posts 2 in. square placed on the inside. Cleats should also be placed on the inside, at the bottom, as shown. Fasten four blocks, 2 in. square, to the bottom for the box to rest upon. These can be attached with long screws run through from the bottom of the box.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 2--Design of the Covering Strip Put on Over the Burlap]

The green burlap is glued to the outside of the box. Be careful not to apply too much glue on the burlap, or it will soak through. This should be tried out on a sc.r.a.p piece, and when the proper application of glue is ascertained, applied to one side of the burlap and stuck on the box.

Place the cloth on so the weave will run in the same direction on all sides. The oak slats are cut and fit over the burlap as shown in Fig. 2.

Care should be taken to make the mitered joints a tight fit. After the miters are all cut and the location of the squares, found, they are marked so that pieces of red burlap may be placed over the green before the slats are fastened permanently. The slats are put in place over the burlap and fastened with small bra.s.s screws.

Cover the top or lid with green burlap, allowing the edges to lap over the ends and sides and fasten under the side strips. This top can be stuffed with excelsior, if desired, and tacks with large heads driven in to hold it in place. The slats can be stained any color to suit the maker. They should be removed from the box when being stained so as not to spot or stain the burlap.

QUARTER-SAWED OAK SETTEE

The mission settee shown in the accompanying picture should be made of quarter-sawed white oak. The material needed will be as follows:

4 posts, 3-1/4 by 3-1/4 by 36-1/2 in., S-4-S.

4 end rails, 1-1/2 by 5 by 32 in., S-4-S.

12 end slats, 5/8 by 3-1/2 by 24 in., S-4-S.

1 front rail, 1-1/2 by 7 by 87 in., S-4-S.

1 lower back rail, 1-1/2 by 9 by 87 in., S-4-S.

1 upper back rail, 1-1/2 by 12 by 87 in., S-4-S.

2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 82 in., S-4-S.

2 cleats for seat frame, 1-1/2 by 2 by 32 in., S-4-S.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Mission Settee Made of Quarter-Sawed Oak]

On account of the unusual width of the pieces that go into the makeup of this settee, it will be necessary to have the wood thoroughly seasoned before putting them together, otherwise shrinkage will cause them to crack open.

Begin work by making the ends of the settee first. Cut the posts to length, chamfering both top and bottoms somewhat so that they shall not splinter or cause injury to the hands. Next lay out and cut the mortises as shown on the drawing. With the posts finished, lay out the end rails, cutting the tenons and the mortises into which the ends of the slats are to be fitted.

It should be noted that the drawing calls for the "setting in" of the whole of the ends of the slats, there being no shoulders. This is much easier and gives just as satisfactory a result, provided the sides of the mortises are carefully cut.

Thoroughly sc.r.a.pe and sandpaper all these parts and then put the ends together. In addition to the glue it will be well to through pin each of the tenons and mortises. These pins may be put in flush and permanent on the ends of the settee. On the side rails, however, the pins are to be allowed to project so that they can be removed, and no glue is used in the joint.

While the glue of the ends is hardening, prepare the rails of front and back. Sc.r.a.pe and sandpaper these and when the clamps can be removed from the ends put the whole frame together. The ends of all projecting tenons are chamfered.

The ill.u.s.tration shows a loose leather cushion. There is quite a variety of materials out of which such a cushion can be made. The best, of course, is leather. In the highest cla.s.s of furniture where loose cushions are used, the seat base is formed by solidly mortising a frame together on which is woven a heavy cane seating. This in turn is fastened to the inside of the piece of furniture, and the cushions when placed upon it make a very comfortable seat. The stock bill for this settee calls for such a frame. Wood slats may be subst.i.tuted if desired.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of the Oak Settee]

This piece of furniture will look well if finished in weathered oak. See that all glue is removed from the surface, and that the wood is clean and smooth, and apply a coat of weathered oak oil stain. Sandpaper this lightly with No. 00 paper when the stain has thoroughly dried, and put on a coat of lackl.u.s.ter or an equivalent.

A SCREEN

In selecting or making up mission furniture for the home, a screen is necessary sometimes to add to the appearance of a room. The screen shown in the accompanying ill.u.s.tration consists of a few parts which are easily put together. The stock can be bought of any planing mill planed, sanded and cut to the proper lengths. The cloth, which should be of dark color, can be purchased at a dry goods store. The following list of material will be needed.

6 posts, 1 in. square by 65 in.

6 rails, 3/4 in. square by 18 in.

6 rails, 1/2 in. square by 18 in.

3 panels, 1/4 by 3 by 18 in.

6 yd. of cloth.

4 double-acting hinges.

2 doz. 2-1/2-in. slender screws.

Cut or plow a groove 1/4 in. wide and 1/4 in. deep in the center of one surface on each of the 3/4-in. rails. Cut out the ends with a compa.s.s saw. The five holes are bored with a 1-in. bit. The edges of these panels are inserted in the grooves of the 3/4-in. rails, using plenty of good glue.

When the glue has dried for at least 24 hours the screen frame can be put together. Holes for the screws should be bored through the posts where the 3/4-in. rails are joined and a screw turned into the end grain of each rail.

Sc.r.a.pe off all the surplus glue and sandpaper all the parts well. When this is done the finish can be applied. Any one of the mission stains can be used and finished with wax and polished.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of One Section]

The cloth is cut to length, a hem sewed on each end and one 1/2-in. rail put through each hem. Place the top rail in position and screw it fast.

Stretch the cloth tight and fasten the lower 1/2-in. rail with screws at the bottom. Each section of the screen is finished in the same way.

The hinges are attached about 4 in. from each end of the posts in the same manner as hanging a door.

The sections can be made up in various ways to suit the builder. Instead of using cloth, heavy paste-board, or board made up to take the place of plaster on walls of dwellings, may be subst.i.tuted, thus forming a ground that will take paint and bronze decorations. A piece of this material can be easily cut to fit the opening in each section.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Screen of Three Sections]

A MISSION BOOKRACK

The accompanying sketch shows a bookrack designed strictly along mission lines. Enough stock may be found among the sc.r.a.p, as no piece is over 1 in, in width or thickness. If stock is not on hand, secure the following, cut to exact lengths:

2 stretchers, 1 by 1 by 20 in., S-4-S.

4 posts, 1 by 1 by 7-1/2 in., S-4-S.