Mission Furniture Volume I Part 3

For the magazine stand shown herewith there will be needed the following pieces:

1 top, 7/8 in. by 15-1/2 in. by 16-1/2 in.

1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 11-1/2 in. by 12-1/2 in.

1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 12-1/2 in. by 14-3/4 in.

1 shelf, 7/8 in. by 13-1/2 in. by 16-1/2 in.

2 sides, 7/8 in. by 14-1/2 in. by 33-1/2 in.

1 brace, 7/8 in. by 3-1/4 in. by 17 in.

1 brace, 7/8 in. by 2-1/2 in. by 11-1/2 in.

6 braces, 7/8 in. by 2 in. by 2 in.

Order these pieces mill-planed on two surfaces to the thickness specified above and also sandpapered. Quarter-sawed white oak makes the best appearance of all the woods that are comparatively easy to obtain.

Plain sawed red or white oak will look well but are more liable to warp than the quarter-sawed. This is quite an element in pieces as wide as these.

Begin work on the sides first. Plane a joint edge on each and from this work the two ends. The ends will be square to the joint edge but beveled to the working face. A bevel square will be needed for testing these beveled ends.

To set the bevel make a drawing, full size or nearly so, of the front view and place the bevel on the drawing, adjusting its sides to the angle wanted. Work from a center line in laying off the drawing.

Having planed the ends, lay off the sides. This is done by measuring from the joint edge along the bottom 14 in., from the joint edge along the top 1-1/2 in. and from this 11 in. Connect the points by means of a pencil and straightedge.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Completed Stand]

Before cutting off the joint edges of the pieces measure off and square lines across to indicate the locations of the shelves. Put both pieces together and mark across both joint edges at once to insure getting both laid off alike.

The design at the bottom can be varied to suit the fancy of the worker.

For such a design as is shown, draw on paper, full size, half of it; fold on the center line and with scissors cut both sides of the outline by cutting along the line just drawn. Trace around this pattern on the wood, and saw out with compa.s.s or turning saw.

The shelves may now be made. The bevel of the ends of the shelves will be the same as for the ends of the side pieces. The lengths may be obtained by measuring the drawing. Remember that length is always measured along the grain and that the end grain of the shelves must extend from side to side in this stand. The widths may be obtained by measuring the width of the sides at the points marked out on them for the location of the shelf ends. It is best not to have the shelves the full width of the sides, since the edges of the shelves are to be faced with leather. Make each shelf 1/2 in. less than the width of the side, at the place that the shelf is to be fastened.

The top will be squared up in the usual manner, 15 in. wide by 16 in.

long.

These parts may now be put together. They may be fastened in any one of a variety of ways. Round-head blued screws may be placed at regular intervals through the sides. Finishing nails may be used and the heads set and covered with putty stained to match the wood. Finish nails may be placed at regular intervals and fancy headed nails used to cover the heads.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of the Magazine Stand]

The braces should be formed and fitted but not fastened until the finish has been applied. Thoroughly sc.r.a.pe and sandpaper all parts not already so treated. Probably no other finish appeals to so many people as golden oak. There is no fixed standard of color for golden oak. Different manufacturers have set standards in their part of the country, but the prevailing idea of golden oak is usually that of a rich reddish brown.

Proceed as follows: Egg sh.e.l.l gloss: 1.--One coat of golden oak water stain, diluted with water if a light golden is desired. 2.--Allow time to dry, then sandpaper lightly with fine sandpaper. This is to smooth the grain and to bring up the high lights by removing the stain from the wood. Use No. 00 sandpaper and hold it on the finger tips. 3.--Apply a second coat of the stain diluted about one-half with water. This will throw the grain into still higher relief and thus produce a still greater contrast. Apply this coat of stain very sparingly, using a rag.

Should this stain raise the grain, again rub lightly with fine worn sandpaper, just enough to smooth. 4.--When this has dried, put on a light coat of thin sh.e.l.lac. Sh.e.l.lac precedes filling that it may prevent the high lights--the solid parts of the wood--from being discolored by the stain in the filler, and thus causing a muddy effect. The sh.e.l.lac being thin does not interfere with the filler's entering the pores of the open grain. 5.--Sand lightly with fine sandpaper. 6.--Fill with paste filler colored to match the stain. 7.--Cover this with a coat of orange sh.e.l.lac. This coat of sh.e.l.lac might be omitted, but another coat of varnish must be added. 8.--Sandpaper lightly. 9.--Apply two or three coats of varnish. 10.--Rub the first coats with hair cloth or curled hair and then with pulverized pumice stone, crude oil or linseed oil.

Affix the braces just after filling, using brads and puttying the holes with putty colored to match the filler. The shelves may be faced with thin leather harmonizing with the oak, ornamental headed tacks being used to fasten it in place.

HOME-MADE LAWN SWING

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Completed Swing]

The coming of spring and summer calls forth various kinds of porch and lawn furniture. A porch or lawn swing to accommodate two or more persons is a thing desired by most people. The lawn swing as shown in the picture is portable and does not need stakes to hold it to the ground.

While this swing is substantial and rigid it can be moved from place to place on the lawn, or the chains can be fastened with heavy hooks to the ceiling of a porch instead of using the stand. Either ropes or chains may be used to hang the swing and should be of such length that the seat will be about 20 in. from the ground or floor.

The drawing giving the dimensions for constructing the seat shows how the parts are put together. The front and back ap.r.o.n pieces are mortised to receive a 1-in. square tenon cut on the crosspieces that support the slats. Each end of the ap.r.o.n pieces extends 4 in., and a hole is bored at A into which the hanging ropes or chains are fastened. If ropes are used, bore the holes to fit the rope and when the end of each rope is put through a hole it is tied in a knot to keep from slipping out.

Chains can be fastened with eye bolts. Small carriage or stove bolts are used to hold the slats on the framework and cross pieces. The arm rests are fastened with wood screws.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Seat]

The drawing for the stand gives all the dimensions for its construction.

Split the upright pieces or legs with a saw cut to the length as shown.

A bolt should be put through each piece edgewise at the end of the saw cut, to keep the wood from splitting any farther when the ends are spread to receive the bolts through the cross pieces at the top. The upper ends of the ropes or chains are fastened close to and under the bolt holding the inside forks of the uprights. This bolt can be long enough to fasten a clevis that will hang underneath for this purpose.

The whole swing can be painted with a forest green color which is very suitable for summer outdoor furniture.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Showing Construction of Stand]

HOW TO MAKE A PORTABLE TABLE

[Ill.u.s.tration: Table for Outdoor Use]

A table for outdoor use that can be taken apart, stored or changed from place to place may be made at small expense. Fasten cleats with screws, as shown in Fig. 1, to the bottom of a board of suitable size. The legs are built with a cross piece, A, Fig. 4, at the top which fits into slot formed by the cleats, CC, and a crosspiece, B, that has two cleats, D, making a place to receive the bottom end of the brace, E, Fig. 2. The upper ends of the braces, EE, fit in between two pieces, F, fastened in the middle of the board. The three pins fitting loosely in DD and F, Fig. 2, are all that holds table together. The end view is shown in Fig.

3.

HOW TO MAKE A COMBINATION BILLIARD TABLE AND DAVENPORT

A small size billiard table which can be converted quickly into a davenport is made as follows: Secure clear, selected plain sawed white oak in sizes as indicated by the drawing. Have these planed at the mill to the widths and thicknesses specified.

The lower part should be made first. Cut the four posts to length, chamfering the ends somewhat so that they will not splinter when in use.

Lay out and cut the mortises which are to receive the rails. The lower rails are to be 1-1/8 in. thick and the mortises are to be laid out in the legs so as to bring their outer surfaces almost flush with those of the posts. The upper rails are 2-1/4 in. wide. The slats are 3/4 in.

thick. Tenons should be thoroughly pinned to the sides of the mortises as shown in the ill.u.s.tration. The braces are 1-3/4 in. thick and are fastened to place with roundhead screws and glue.

The seat may be made by putting in a solid bottom that shall rest upon cleats fastened to the inner surfaces of the rails. The top of this bottom should rest about 3/4 in. below the top edge of the rails. A well filled leather cushion completes this part.

A more satisfactory result is obtained by putting in springs and upholstering the seat. Upon this the leather cushion can be placed.

[Ill.u.s.tration: By Swinging the Top Back the Table is Transformed into the Elegant Davenport Seen on the Opposite Page]

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Billiard Table as Converted into a Luxurious Davenport--A Child Can Make the Change in a Moment]

The top or table is built upon and about a heavy frame of well seasoned 1-3/4-in. by 5-3/4-in. white pine. The parts to this frame are thoroughly mortised and tenoned together. Middle stretchers, lengthwise and crosswise, give added strength and rigidity. Upon this frame the slate bed is leveled by planing the frame wherever necessary. Slats are fastened to the bed by screws, the heads of which are countersunk so that they may be covered over even with plaster of paris.