Mark Bittman's Kitchen Express Part 7

Brush half-inch-thick boneless, skinless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s with olive oil; season with salt and pepper and dredge lightly in flour. Cook a teaspoon of minced garlic, the minced zest of an orange, and a teaspoon of red chile flakes for about two minutes in olive oil; add the chicken and sear for about two minutes on each side. Add a can of coconut milk, a pinch of saffron, and a bay leaf; stir, cover, and let simmer for about six minutes until the chicken is cooked through. Sprinkle with slivered almonds and cilantro and serve.

Chicken with Bacon, Shallots, and Brandy Use thick-cut bacon here.

Cut a few slices of bacon into one-inch pieces and fry until crisp; remove with a slotted spoon. Season half-inch-thick chicken cutlets with salt and pepper and sear them in the bacon fat until browned, about two minutes on each side; remove and set aside. Add four sliced shallots and a teaspoon of minced garlic and cook for another two minutes; return the chicken to the pan, add a half cup of brandy, cover, and let simmer for about five minutes, or until the chicken is done and the sauce has thickened somewhat. Serve the chicken topped with the shallots, bacon, and sauce.

Chicken Poached in Port Pound chicken cutlets to half-inch thickness and season with salt and pepper. Cook a chopped onion in b.u.t.ter with salt and pepper for about two minutes. Add about a cup of port to the pan along with the chicken and a couple of bay leaves; bring it to a boil; reduce to a bubble, cover, and simmer for about four minutes. Spoon the onions and sauce over the chicken and sprinkle with freshly chopped parsley.

Honey Fried Chicken Freshly made breadcrumbs are best here; panko are also nice.

Combine half a cup of flour, about half a cup of fresh breadcrumbs, a tablespoon paprika, an egg, about half a cup of milk, salt, and pepper; mix until a thick batter forms (add a little more milk if necessary). Pound boneless, skinless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s to half-inch thickness and dip them in the batter until coated. Shallow-or deep-fry the b.r.e.a.s.t.s in oil until golden and cooked through, turning once, about eight minutes total. Warm some honey with some water and a sprig of thyme and drizzle it over the chicken to serve.

Chicken Piccata Boneless pork chops are also good prepared this way.

Dredge chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, pounded to half-inch thickness, in flour mixed with salt and pepper. Sear the chicken on both sides in a mixture of oil and b.u.t.ter, about four minutes total. Lay very thinly sliced lemon rounds on top of the chicken, add a cup of white wine, and cover; continue cooking for about five minutes. Remove the chicken from the pan and reduce the wine to a syrupy consistency. Serve the chicken with the lemon slices on top, a spoonful of the sauce, and a sprinkling of capers or chopped olives.

Turkey Cutlets with Walnuts and Sage You might puree an apple or two in the food processor with a dash of cinnamon to serve alongside the turkey.

In a food processor, combine a handful or so of walnuts with about a half cup of breadcrumbs, a few tablespoons of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, a teaspoon or so of fresh sage, salt, and pepper. Pound turkey cutlets to half-inch thickness; season with salt and pepper; dredge in flour, egg, and the walnut mixture, pressing gently to help the mixture adhere. Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil and fry the cutlets, turning once, until golden and cooked through, about eight minutes.

Sausage and Potatoes Simply cla.s.sic.

Heat the broiler. Slice potatoes into half-inch pieces and boil in salted water until soft, just a few minutes. Meanwhile, slice a few Italian sausages-sweet, spicy, or a combination-into two-inch pieces and put them in an oven-safe dish with half of a thinly sliced onion; broil until the sausage is well browned, about eight minutes, turning once. Mix the sausage, onion, and potatoes together in a bowl with a few tablespoons of olive oil and a handful of chopped basil or parsley.

Sweet Sauerkraut with Kielbasa A chopped or pureed apple-or good-quality applesauce-can be used instead of the pear.

In some b.u.t.ter, sear three-inch pieces of kielbasa, a sliced onion, and a couple of chopped pears (slightly short of ripe is fine); cook for about four minutes. Add a bag or jar of sauerkraut (do not use canned), cover, and heat until warmed through, about six minutes more. Serve with pumpernickel rolls.

Braised Pork Chops with Celery Root Use parsnips or carrots if you can't find the celery root.

Cut some celery root into half-inch sticks. Take thin, boneless pork chops and smear them with salt, pepper, and minced garlic. Sear in a mixture of b.u.t.ter and oil, turning once, about two minutes on each side; add the celery root and a splash of dry white wine and cover. Cook for about five minutes; remove the chops to a plate and cook until the celery root is just tender and the remaining liquid is reduced to a syrup. Add a bit of fresh b.u.t.ter and return the chops to the pan, along with any liquid that's acc.u.mulated around them. Turn once or twice in the sauce and serve, sprinkled with fresh parsley.

Seared Pork Paillards with Prunes and Olives A surprising and good combination.

Pound boneless pork chops to quarter-inch thickness and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and some ground coriander. Sear the chops for about a minute per side in olive oil. Remove from the pan and add about a cup of white wine and a couple of tablespoons of b.u.t.ter; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and add a handful of chopped prunes and a few chopped green olives; cover and cook for a couple of minutes, then add the pork and cook until just done, about three minutes more. Serve the pork drizzled with the sauce and garnished with chopped parsley or chives.

Stuffed Pork Chops with Broccoli Rabe A bit of a sprint, but worth the effort.

Remove a couple of sweet Italian sausages from their casings and brown in a bit of olive oil, breaking up the meat with a fork or spoon. Meanwhile, cook a bunch of chopped broccoli rabe in boiling, salted water until crisp-tender, about two minutes; drain. Pound boneless pork chops as thinly as you can; season with salt and pepper. Put a bit of the cooked sausage in the center of each of the chops, roll, and secure with toothpicks. Sear in the same skillet, browning the meat well. Drizzle the broccoli rabe with good-quality olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve with the stuffed pork chops.

Steak au Poivre The cla.s.sic (and wonderfully excessive) recipe.

Salt and heavily-really heavily-pepper inch-thick steaks-rib eye, sirloin, or skirt (which will be thinner), and cook them in a grill pan to the desired doneness, turning once. Set the steaks aside. Melt some b.u.t.ter in the same pan with a couple of tablespoons of chopped shallot; cook until the shallot softens, about two minutes. Add a splash of brandy to the shallots, along with any collected juices from the steak, and reduce; lower the heat, add a bit of cream, and cook until it begins to thicken. Serve the cream sauce with the steaks.

Beef Fajita Stir-fry Some garnishes might include fresh cilantro, sour cream, guacamole, chopped tomato, or black olives.

Fry about a pound of thinly sliced sirloin steak in some olive oil over high heat until seared but still rare. Remove; add more oil if needed; add sliced red bell pepper, chopped onion, and garlic and stir-fry until just soft. Season with dried oregano, chili powder, salt, and pepper, and return the meat to the pan along with a couple handfuls of good tortilla chips and some crumbled queso fresco. Toss until the chips are well coated and serve with salsa drizzled on top.

Scallion-Stuffed Beef Rolls These are known as negima negima in j.a.pan, where they originated. in j.a.pan, where they originated.

Heat the broiler. Cut strips of flank steak into three-by-five-inch pieces about a quarter-inch thick. Brush one side of the beef with a little soy sauce. Cut scallions in half the long way, then into five-inch lengths; put two or three pieces on each piece of beef. Roll the beef lengthwise and secure with a toothpick or two. Broil as quickly as you can until browned, maybe five minutes total, turning halfway through. Serve, garnished with chopped scallions, cilantro, and a drizzle of soy and-if you like-sesame oil.

Seared Calf's Liver with Celery The nearly universal problem with liver is overcooking; keep the cooking time short, and it will be delicious.

Heat two tablespoons of b.u.t.ter until the foam subsides; dredge a thick slice of liver in flour, shaking off the excess, and put it in the hot b.u.t.ter, sprinkling with salt and pepper. As soon as the liver browns on one side-two to three minutes-turn it and brown the other side, cooking for another two minutes. The liver should be medium-rare. Remove from the pan and add a couple of sliced celery stalks and the juice of a lemon or two. Stir to cook the celery a bit and make a little pan sauce. Serve over the liver, garnished with parsley or chives.

Apricot-Braised Lamb Chops Lovely over a bed of arugula or other spicy greens.

In a food processor, make a paste from a handful of dried apricots, some lemon juice, a bit of onion, a teaspoon of ground coriander, and a clove of garlic. Salt and pepper not-too-thin lamb chops and sear them in olive oil for about two minutes on each side until browned; remove and set aside. Add the apricot mixture to the pan along with a splash of white wine and bring to a simmer. Put the chops back in the pan, cover, and braise for about five minutes-they should remain pink inside. Serve, drizzled with the braising liquid.

Red WineBraised Lamb Chops Serve these over a bed of couscous tossed with peas.

Salt and pepper not-too-thin lamb chops and sear them in oil, turning once, until they're brown on both sides; set aside. Add a couple of tablespoons of flour to the pan, stirring constantly, until it's well combined with the drippings. Whisk in a half cup of beef broth or water, a half cup of red wine, some minced garlic, and a teaspoon or two of chopped fresh rosemary; bring to a boil. Return the chops and juices to the pan and cook, turning the lamb over once or twice until it's done.

Indian-Style Lamb Kebabs This preparation also works well with chicken, beef, and even firm fish.

Heat the broiler. Cut a pound or so of lamb shoulder into one-inch chunks. Toss with a cup of plain yogurt, a chopped small onion, some minced garlic, a teaspoon each of ground c.u.min, coriander, and paprika, and a pinch of cayenne. Thread the lamb pieces on skewers and broil, turning occasionally, until nicely browned and cooked to desired doneness. Serve with slices of fresh limes and freshly chopped cilantro or mint.

Pasta Jambalaya You can use any cooked sausage here, but the spiciness of andouille is the most authentic.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it (use short-cut pasta like orzo, orecchiette, sh.e.l.ls, or ditalini). Meanwhile, slice an andouille or another spicy cooked sausage into coins. Heat a fair amount of olive oil and brown the sausage; add a chopped onion, a chopped celery stalk, and a chopped green bell pepper and continue to cook until the vegetables begin to soften. Add some minced garlic, a tablespoon of chopped oregano (or a bit of dried), and enough flour to make a roux (add more oil if the mixture looks too dry). Turn the heat up so the roux browns quickly, but watch it like a hawk. As soon as it darkens and smells toasty add the pasta and enough of the pasta cooking water to keep everything moist. Toss well and garnish with chopped fresh parsley; break with tradition and serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese if you like.

Banderilla Pasta This borrows the flavors of the original tapa to make a pasta sauce.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, chop a few crisp pickled peppers or pepperoncini, a handful of green olives, and a couple of good marinated artichoke hearts (optional). Using a fork, mash up a few anchovies (marinated in olive oil and packed in gla.s.s) and add them to the chopped vegetables. Toss the pasta with the vegetables and anchovies, adding a few tablespoons of the reserved liquid as needed to make a sauce; garnish with chopped olives or parsley.

Pasta with Tomato Tapenade You might crumble some fresh goat cheese over the top of this.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it. Meanwhile, combine a half pound of pitted black olives in food processor with about a handful of drained capers, four or five anchovies, two cloves of garlic, freshly ground black pepper, and olive oil as needed to make a coa.r.s.e paste. Put the tapenade in a large skillet over medium heat with several canned tomatoes, breaking them up as you cook, and stir until saucy, only a couple of minutes. Toss the pasta with just enough of the tapenade to gently coat the noodles. Serve with cheese if you like, pa.s.sing any extra sauce at the table.

Linguine with b.u.t.ter, Parmesan, and Sage The antecedent of "Alfredo" sauce, and much lighter (and I think better).

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, leaving it just short of done and reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, melt two tablespoons b.u.t.ter (or more) and add a couple handfuls of fresh sage leaves (about 30 leaves) to the pan; cook until the b.u.t.ter just browns and the leaves have shriveled. Add the pasta to the b.u.t.ter and sage, along with about three-quarters of a cup of the cooking liquid; cook until the pasta is done; it's OK if the mixture remains a little soupy. Stir in a couple of good handfuls of freshly grated Parmesan cheese and mix until it becomes creamy; season with lots of freshly ground black pepper and serve.

Pasta with Chicken, Frisee, and Stilton Try playing with this combination of greens and cheese; use baby spinach and feta or endive and goat cheese, for example.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, cut a half pound or more of chicken cutlets into one-inch pieces. Chop an onion and cook it in some olive oil until it begins to soften, then add the chicken; sprinkle with salt and pepper and about a tablespoon of freshly chopped rosemary and cook for about four minutes. Separate a head of frisee. When the chicken is almost cooked through, add the frisee and cook until wilted, just a minute or so. Add the pasta to the chicken mixture, along with a handful of crumbled Stilton or another blue cheese. Add a couple tablespoons of the pasta water if needed to soften the cheese and moisten the sauce. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with toasted walnuts.

Pasta with Walnut Pesto Incredibly simple and incredibly rich.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, puree a cup of walnuts, some Parmesan cheese, a small handful of parsley, a few sage leaves, salt, pepper, and olive oil in a food processor; use just enough olive oil to get a nice, almost smooth consistency. Toss the pasta with the walnut sauce, using some of the reserved cooking water as needed to moisten it. Serve, topped with more freshly grated Parmesan cheese and some chopped parsley.

Pasta with Garbanzo Beans, Sausage, and Arugula One of my favorite "more sauce, less pasta" dishes.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, remove the casings from a couple of sweet Italian sausages and fry the meat, breaking it up into small pieces, until cooked through. Add a large can of drained, diced tomatoes, a can of drained chickpeas, a tablespoon of crushed fennel seeds, a good pinch of red chile flakes, salt, and pepper. Toss the pasta with a couple handfuls of arugula or another tender green (baby spinach, mizuna, and dandelion are all good) and let it wilt. Add the pasta to the sausage mixture, along with some pasta water if needed to moisten, and serve garnished with chopped parsley.

Pasta with Bacon and Breadcrumbs This relies on good breadcrumbs, which means homemade or panko.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, cut bacon into small pieces and fry it in a bit of olive oil until just crisping; remove from the pan and add two or three minced cloves of garlic to the pan; cook over fairly low heat, turning until just fragrant, a couple of minutes. Toss in a cup or so of breadcrumbs and a pinch of red chile flakes; cook, stirring, until the breadcrumbs turn golden (they go fast, so you'll want to watch them). Toss the pasta and the breadcrumb mixture along with the bacon and a little of the reserved liquid. Top with some more olive oil and a bit of chopped parsley or basil.

Linguine with Pea Sauce and Prosciutto Good when you're eager for a taste of spring. I don't bother to strain the sauce, but you can.

Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, cook a bag of frozen peas and a couple of chopped scallions in just enough salted, boiling water to cover everything; simmer until tender, just a couple of minutes. Puree most of the peas with as much cooking liquid as you need in a food processor or blender. Cut a few slices of prosciutto into matchsticks and cook for about two minutes or until coloring slightly; add the remaining whole peas to the prosciutto. Toss the pasta with the pea puree; mix in the prosciutto and whole peas. Season with lots of freshly ground pepper and salt to taste; serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Warm Milk Toast Day-old bread is ideal for this; it won't become soggy.

Warm two tablespoons of b.u.t.ter in a large pot; add a cup of milk, a quarter cup of raw cane sugar, and a quarter cup of raisins. Heat this mixture, stirring until the sugar melts, but don't bring it to a boil. Slice good-quality bread (brioche is nice) into two-inch cubes and put the bread in the pot; add as much bread as needed to soak up the milk without becoming soggy. Transfer everything to a bowl to serve; drizzle with a couple of tablespoons of dark rum or whiskey and sprinkle with cinnamon.

Lemon Mascarpone Mousse Try subst.i.tuting orange rind and juice for the lemon and add a touch of Grand Marnier in place of the cream.

Finely grate the rind of a lemon. Whisk together a cup of mascarpone, the lemon's juice and grated rind, and about a quarter cup of sugar (or more to taste) until smooth. Add a tablespoon or two of heavy cream to moisten if needed. If you have time, chill for a bit before serving in pudding cups; top with a drizzle of honey and serve with ladyfingers.

Candied Citrus Rinds A combination of different citrus fruit makes for a gorgeous presentation.

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Slice an orange, a grapefruit, or a lime into quarters and remove the flesh from the peel. (Use it for whatever you like.) Slice each quarter rind into quarter-inch-thick strips; boil for a minute, then remove from the water with a slotted spoon. In a combination of one part sugar to one part water boil the rinds a second time, for about five minutes. Drain, toss with a bit of sugar until lightly coated, and set on a cookie sheet to dry. If you like, melt some dark chocolate and dip the rinds halfway. Serve warm, alongside good b.u.t.ter cookies or shortbread.

Grapefruit 'n' Cream Shake In spring and summer strawberries and tarragon are also a lovely combination, though you may have to add a bit of water depending on how juicy your fruit is.

In a blender, combine two cups of grapefruit juice, a half cup of cream, and a couple tablespoons (or more) of sugar. Add a cup of ice and blend until it becomes a slushy consistency. Serve immediately, garnished with a dusting of cayenne if you like.

Whipped Grapefruit Cream with Chocolate Drizzle The nuts (use whatever type you like) are optional, but they do add a nice crunch.

Melt four ounces of bittersweet chocolate. Whip two cups of heavy cream along with two tablespoons of fresh grapefruit juice and two tablespoons zest; continue whipping until stiff peaks form. Fold in a handful of chopped pistachios. Spoon the grapefruit cream into serving dishes, drizzle with the warm chocolate, and garnish with a sprig of mint.

Orange Fool You can let this chill and set, or serve immediately.

Combine one and one-half cups orange juice and two tablespoons orange zest in a medium saucepan; simmer gently over medium-low heat until reduced to half its original volume, about fifteen minutes. Meanwhile, whip one and one-half cups of heavy cream until soft peaks form, then add three tablespoons of powdered sugar and continue beating, forming stiff peaks. Cool the saucepan in an ice bath for a minute or two, then strain the orange reduction into the whipped cream. Add three-quarters cup unsweetened flaked coconut and fold gently to combine everything. Garnish with additional coconut.

Almond Tart Great for guests, as you can serve it hot or at room temperature.

Heat the broiler. In a medium bowl, mix together four eggs, one-third cup of sugar, one-half cup of ground almonds, three-quarters cup of half-and-half, and a half cup of blanched slivered almonds. Melt two tablespoons of b.u.t.ter and add the almond mixture to the pan; mix to evenly distribute the almonds and cover. Cook until the eggs are set; put the pan uncovered in the broiler for about two minutes or until just golden on top. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and additional almonds to serve.

Aztec Hot Chocolate Increase or decrease the amount of cayenne as you like.

Whip a half cup of heavy cream with a half teaspoon of cayenne pepper and one teaspoon of vanilla extract until soft peaks form; set aside. In a small pot, warm four cups of whole milk with a half cup of chopped semisweet chocolate, a bit more cayenne, and a half teaspoon of cinnamon. Warm the milk until it just begins to bubble (don't let it boil) and the chocolate is melted. Transfer the chocolate milk to mugs and top with the spicy whipped cream.

Nutella Fondue For fans of Nutella, this is heaven.

Warm a cup of Nutella with a cup of cream and mix to combine well. Cut your favorite bakery pound cake into cubes and slice a couple of not-too-ripe bananas. Use skewers to dip the pound cake and bananas into the fondue.

101.

Chocolate Chip Pancakes Topped with rum-infused whipped cream, this breakfast favorite becomes a fabulous dessert.

In a bowl, mix together two cups of flour, two teaspoons baking powder, one-quarter teaspoon salt, one tablespoon sugar, two eggs, one and one-half cups milk, and two tablespoons oil or melted b.u.t.ter; some lumps can remain. Warm a large pan with a tablespoon or two of b.u.t.ter, ladle some batter into the pan, and sprinkle the batter with chocolate chips. When the pancake begins to bubble, flip and cook for another minute more or until golden brown.

Spring We expect so much of spring, and though it comes slowly, it brings lettuce and other greens, peas, asparagus, onions, rhubarb, strawberries, broccoli, turnips, beets, and more. After a long winter when almost every vegetable comes from the great Central Valley of California or even farther away, anything local is welcome. and though it comes slowly, it brings lettuce and other greens, peas, asparagus, onions, rhubarb, strawberries, broccoli, turnips, beets, and more. After a long winter when almost every vegetable comes from the great Central Valley of California or even farther away, anything local is welcome.We can do wonderful things with that produce as it becomes available. Everything mentioned above, along with spinach, escarole, endive, citrus, arugula, fennel, and more, makes its way into dishes that draw back the curtain of winter.

Fried Eggs with Lemon and Chervil Chervil, an herb that tastes like basil, can be hard to find, but tarragon and chives are fine subst.i.tutes.

Cook a little minced garlic in b.u.t.ter over medium heat until fragrant, then add a few tablespoons of lemon juice and cook a couple of minutes more. Gently add four eggs to the pan, cover, and cook until just set. Sprinkle with freshly chopped chervil and serve with crusty bread.

Chilaquiles To avoid frying fresh tortillas, use tortilla chips.

Cut corn tortillas (flour tortillas will do, but they're not as good) into strips. Fry in not too much oil-with a few chopped jalapenos, pickled or not, if you tend in that direction-until crisp, about three minutes, turning; drain on paper towels. Beat a few eggs with a bit of milk or cream and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat a tablespoon or so of the frying oil (save or discard the rest) and add the tortilla strips and eggs. Cook, stirring, until the eggs are done, two to four minutes. Garnish with salsa (or stir some salsa in there), chopped avocado, cheese, scallions, sour cream, or whatever else you like.

Mixed Herb Omelet A combo of thyme, basil, marjoram, and rosemary is also good.

Beat four eggs with two tablespoons of milk. Add a pinch of salt and pepper and a small handful of parsley and mint, along with smaller amounts of tarragon and thyme. Set a medium nonstick pan over medium-low heat and add b.u.t.ter to the pan, followed, a minute or two later, by the egg mixture. Cook, undisturbed, until the eggs are mostly set but still quite runny in the center. Fold the omelet in half, slide it from the pan, and serve topped with more chopped herbs.

Hangtown Fry Supposedly the breakfast of forty-niners (the gold miners, not the football team).

Cook about one-quarter pound of chopped bacon (slab is best) in a little olive oil over medium heat for a minute or two; add one-half cup mushrooms (shiitakes are good) if you like, and cook until brown, with salt and pepper. Add six or eight shucked oysters, cook for a half minute or so. Stir in four or five beaten eggs, with some parsley. Scramble soft and serve with toast.

Eggs Bhona Add as much or as little spice as you like to this Bangladeshi take on eggs dish.

Boil eight eggs for about six minutes; meanwhile, cook a chopped onion and a chopped green bell pepper in vegetable oil, just until soft. Add a crushed clove of garlic, one-quarter teaspoon each ground ginger and turmeric, a pinch each of red chile flakes and salt, a bay leaf, and a quarter cup of tomato paste and give a good stir. Then add a cup or so boiling water to make a sauce. Sh.e.l.l the eggs and add to the onion mixture. Cover and cook for five minutes.

Lemongra.s.s-and-Chicken Soup You can add rice vermicelli or mung bean noodles to this if you like.

Heat chicken stock, about a cup-and-a-half per serving. Trim a stalk of lemongra.s.s per serving; bruise the pieces with the back of a knife. Add the lemongra.s.s and a few slices of ginger to the stock, along with two or three minced hot chiles, or to taste. After a few minutes, remove the lemongra.s.s and ginger and add fish or soy sauce and chopped oyster mushrooms or any other mushrooms and some chunks of cooked chicken (or pork, beef, or cubed tofu). Season with lime juice (lots) and salt, and garnish with cilantro leaves.

Udon Noodles with Green Tea Broth You can embellish this with bonito flakes, cuc.u.mber or avocado slices, chopped scallions, sesame seeds, or shredded cooked beef or chicken.

Bring about two quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Tie three tablespoons of green tea leaves in a piece of cheesecloth or put in a tea ball. Remove the pot from the heat and steep the tea for about five minutes or to desired strength. Discard the tea and return to a boil, adding a pinch of salt. Add eight ounces of udon noodles. Cook, stirring once or twice, until noodles are tender. Taste and add some more salt, pepper, and mirin or sugar if desired.

Miso Soup with Tofu For more substance, add a few chopped cooked shrimp or some shredded chicken.

Bring four or five cups of water to a boil. Whisk a cup of the water with a quarter cup of miso (more if you like) in a bowl until smooth. Pour the miso mix into the water and add cubed tofu, minced carrots, and minced scallions to serve with soy sauce on the side.

Lime and Chicken Soup Pretty much a perfect combination of flavors, as long as you're generous with both lime juice and cilantro.

Cut a couple boneless, skinless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s or thighs into one-half-inch chunks; brown in olive oil; then add a chopped onion, a smashed garlic clove, a pinch of cinnamon, and the zest of a lime; cook a minute or so. Add six cups chicken broth and bring to a boil. Stir in a chopped avocado and the juice from the lime. Serve, sprinkled with lots of cilantro, with tortilla chips on the side.

Spinach and White Bean Soup Any tender green is fine here; arugula, watercress, or dandelion adds a nice peppery flavor.

Cook half a chopped onion with a smashed clove of garlic in some olive oil for about three minutes. Add precooked or canned white beans (with their liquid) and about five cups of chicken or vegetable broth; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for about five minutes, mashing some of the beans a bit if you like. Add two or three cups of chopped spinach and one-quarter cup chopped parsley. Stir to wilt the greens and serve with a hunk of crusty bread and grated Parmesan.

Asparagus Leek Soup A nice combination of early spring ingredients.

Slice the white part of a leek and cook it for three to five minutes in a couple of tablespoons of b.u.t.ter or oil along with a smashed clove of garlic, a chopped carrot, and a bunch of chopped fresh asparagus. Add about six cups of chicken or vegetable stock and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are tender, five minutes or so. Puree the ingredients until smooth. You can add a few tablespoons of cream if you want a richer finish.

Soup with Poached Eggs and Greens It doesn't get much faster or better than this.

Bring six cups of vegetable or chicken stock to a slow bubble. Add two cups of any chopped tender greens (spinach, arugula, and mizuna all work well), then four sh.e.l.led eggs, along with a couple of smashed cloves of garlic, some freshly grated Parmesan, and red chile flakes to taste. Cook until the whites of the eggs are set but the yolks still soft, about three minutes. Scoop out the garlic cloves if you care, and serve immediately.

Chilled Cuc.u.mber and Dill Soup The fresh dill is what makes this fabulous.