Lidia Cooks From The Heart Of Italy Part 6

Portofino is a small port town that is lovely to stroll through, perhaps with an ice cream, or to stop at for a sunset drink. Leave lots of time to visit the nearby Abbey of San Fruttuoso. Originally built to house the remains of the bishop of Tarragon, San Fruttuoso, the abbey has a double row of galleries that look right out to the sea. The dead center of the religious complex is the tenth-century cloister, with its thick columns and zoomorphic carvings. If you're a scuba diver (I'm not), you can come face-to-face with the underwater is a small port town that is lovely to stroll through, perhaps with an ice cream, or to stop at for a sunset drink. Leave lots of time to visit the nearby Abbey of San Fruttuoso. Originally built to house the remains of the bishop of Tarragon, San Fruttuoso, the abbey has a double row of galleries that look right out to the sea. The dead center of the religious complex is the tenth-century cloister, with its thick columns and zoomorphic carvings. If you're a scuba diver (I'm not), you can come face-to-face with the underwater Christ of the Chasms Christ of the Chasms statue, his arms outstretched in thanks for the riches of the sea and in supplication for protection from ancient pirates and stormy seas.-T statue, his arms outstretched in thanks for the riches of the sea and in supplication for protection from ancient pirates and stormy seas.-TANYA The Ligurian Riviera

Overleaf: Prosciuttificio Galloni, Langhirano

MANY PEOPLE CONSIDER EMILIA-ROMAGNA TO BE THE EPITOME OF Italian gastronomy. The region exemplifies the extensive offerings of Italian traditional regional products, such as Grana Padano, Parmigiano-Reggiano, mortadella, Italian gastronomy. The region exemplifies the extensive offerings of Italian traditional regional products, such as Grana Padano, Parmigiano-Reggiano, mortadella, prosciutto di Parma, aceto balsamico, cotechino prosciutto di Parma, aceto balsamico, cotechino, Culatello di Zibello Culatello di Zibello, lardo lardo, porcini, and more. From this great region's culinary culture, and the pa.s.sion and artisanry of its people, stem some of the most magnificent meals in Italy. Lasagna imbott.i.ta, tagliatelle alla Bolognese Lasagna imbott.i.ta, tagliatelle alla Bolognese, tortellini, tortellacci, cappelletti, cappellacci, tortelli, anolini, bollito misto, erbazzone tortellacci, cappelletti, cappellacci, tortelli, anolini, bollito misto, erbazzone, drizzles of balsamico tradizionale balsamico tradizionale on everything from cheese to meat to strawberries and ice cream. on everything from cheese to meat to strawberries and ice cream.

I learned this firsthand when I opened Felidia in 1981, from Dante and Nino Laurenti, who hailed from Corchia, a small town near Parma, at the foot of the Apennines in Emilia-Romagna. Nino was the sommelier and Dante the head captain in my newly opened restaurant. They were gems at the service of food, but what I loved most about them was their talent, pa.s.sion, and commitment for the food of their native region and their willingness to share it with me and our guests. The first traditional anolini anolini, tortellini, tortelli tortelli, and tagliatelle I learned to make was from them. Together we made cotechino, bollito misto cotechino, bollito misto, and even made and cured the whole prosciutto. They were away from their native land but held steadfast to the culinary culture of their upbringing. I was so enamored of their cuisine that I wanted to know more, and in the early eighties began my intense culinary missions of research to that region, which continue into the present; I continue to find gems of products, techniques, and flavors.

One of the first things you can expect on a table in Emilia-Romagna is platters of affettati affettati, sliced cold cuts, flanked with sweet and pungent fruit mostarda mostarda, followed by golden pasta stuffed, served in soups, or dressed with simple or savory sauces. If not filled, golden strands of pasta are dressed with the world-famous Bolognese sauce, sage and b.u.t.ter, or the drippings of the succulent, finger-licking sauce of slow-cooked roast, be it fowl, veal, or pork. The leftovers of these slow-roasting meats usually turn into the delightful stuffed pastas. And these are just some of the delights you will encounter traveling through Emilia-Romagna.

In this region, one of the essential qualities of a good chef/cook is patience. In addition to the tradition of slow roasts there is the tradition of large pots of great soups made from capon and mixed meats, slowly simmering into a savory golden liquid to which some little stuffed pasta like tortellini or anolini anolini are added. The are added. The stufato stufato-it could be of beef, pork, or veal-slowly perks and braises, yielding yet another one of this region's succulent dishes.

So, as you can imagine, this is not a hurried cuisine. Everything from the products that need to be produced and aged, to the roast, to the time-consuming soups and braises, to the rolling, cutting, and stuffing of pasta-this cuisine needs time and dedication. It is no wonder that this regional cuisine yields some of the tastiest and most satisfying dishes in all of Italy.

When you decide to begin cooking from this region's culinary tradition, tagliatelle and stuffed pasta should be on top of your list, and it is the recipes for these that I share with you in this book and encourage you to make. The northern regions of Italy are known for their fresh pasta, just as the southern regions are known for their use of dry pasta. Hailing from the north, I can recall pressing my little fingers into the silky dough when I was a child and could not even reach the table.

With all due respect to my northern roots, fresh pasta in Bologna takes the prize. So, a few years ago, while in Emilia-Romagna, I went on a mission to learn how to make the pasta as they do in Bologna and compare it with the one made by Dante and Nino. I had heard about a mother, Renata Venturi, and her two daughters, Daniela and Monica, in Bologna, who made the best pasta and sold it in a small store called Le Sfogline, meaning "the sheets"-of pasta, of course.

Le Sfogline is located at 7B Via Belvedere, behind the Mercato delle Erbe, under a portico in the center of Bologna. There they make mounds of tagliatelle and anolini, tortelli anolini, tortelli, tortellini, and cappellacci. cappellacci. The fillings of the stuffed pastas changed according to season, but the shapes remained the same. The store was always bustling with discriminating Bolognese housewives, and each sale was packaged as a gift box, tied with a ribbon. One of the daughters was in charge of the money, always at the front, while the mother, with her muscular arms, was rolling the dough in the back, and the other sister was in charge of making the stuffing and shaping the pasta. The fillings of the stuffed pastas changed according to season, but the shapes remained the same. The store was always bustling with discriminating Bolognese housewives, and each sale was packaged as a gift box, tied with a ribbon. One of the daughters was in charge of the money, always at the front, while the mother, with her muscular arms, was rolling the dough in the back, and the other sister was in charge of making the stuffing and shaping the pasta.

The lesson was simple. Organic fresh eggs were used, with yolks the color of the sun, and freshly milled flour, local water, and lots of elbow grease to work the dough until it was resilient and yet as soft as silk when cooked. Of course, to dress the tagliatelle, or to make a lasagna pasticciata lasagna pasticciata, the Bolognese sauce is essential. In simple terms, it is a meat sauce, but when it has been simmered for three hours with the best local ingredients, the sauce clings to the golden pasta like honey.

In this chapter, I give you a recipe for carni bianche carni bianche-a "white" meat sauce, which is traditional but maybe not as known as the traditional Bolognese, and is a great change. I also have a meatless but equally rich sauce option with salsa alla Romagnola salsa alla Romagnola. But meat is not in short supply in Emilia-Romagna. Besides the famous prosciutto di prosciutto di Parma Parma, if you travel about twenty miles south of Parma to Langhirano, you will be in the center of hanging-ham country; these ultimately cure into prosciutto. I learned that local farmers feed their pigs the remaining whey after making Grana Padano and Parmigiano-Reggiano, and this yields the best pork, which, combined with the constant flow of air coming down the Apennines with the Taro River, gives these prosciuttos their sweet, delicious flavor.

The Maletti Acetaia in Modena Traveling down the main road through the town of Langhirano, you can't help noticing large warehouses with rectangular windows as high as the buildings, fitted with louvers. These louvers are raised or lowered according to the air movement, to cure the prosciutto properly. On one of these houses stands proudly the name of my dear friend Carlo Galloni, whose family has been producing great prosciutto for generations. If you happen to be in the area, do ring the bell and tell him you are Lidia's friend. Otherwise, make sure that, next time you buy prosciutto di Parma prosciutto di Parma in the States, you ask for Galloni. in the States, you ask for Galloni.

Another good friend is Carmen Maletti. The Maletti family hails from Modena, the aceto-balsamico aceto-balsamico capital, and they produce an extraordinary capital, and they produce an extraordinary aceto balsamico tradizionale aceto balsamico tradizionale, which is available in the States. I love visiting the acetaia acetaia, which is in the attic of the Maletti home; here there are hundreds of barrels, ranging from five to thirty liters, placed in ascending size order. The spout of every barrel is covered with a handmade white linen lace doily, so flies or other insects do not drop in while the balsamic vinegar ages. But what I enjoy most is being with Carmen in her kitchen. She is an extraordinary cook (her anolini in brodo anolini in brodo rivals Dante's), and I credit her with the rivals Dante's), and I credit her with the Anolini alla Parmigiana Anolini alla Parmigiana, Cipolline en Agrodolce Cipolline en Agrodolce, and erbazzone erbazzone recipes in this chapter. A jovial woman with a great laugh, she always dresses in bright colors. A feast of food and a welcome with a big hug await me whenever I visit her and her family. recipes in this chapter. A jovial woman with a great laugh, she always dresses in bright colors. A feast of food and a welcome with a big hug await me whenever I visit her and her family.

SWEET & S & SOUR L LITTLE O ONIONS.

Cipolline en Agrodolce Serves 6 Serves 6 You will find many ways to please your guests with this simple dish. The juicy, glazed onions are delicious as an hors d'oeuvre to be pa.s.sed around, tossed in a salad, or served as a side dish with meats and fish. Here, I use balsamic vinegar to give the glazing syrup lots of flavor and a lovely caramel color, but you could use good wine vinegar as well. In which case, use just half the vinegar called for, and 1 teaspoon of honey.

These onions are wonderful served warm from the pan or at room temperature and make a great house gift, packed in a nice jar with a label tied around the neck. They will keep in the refrigerator for a week or two and freeze well, too.

- 2 pounds cipolline onions cipolline onions, peeled but left whole - 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - cup balsamic vinegar balsamic vinegar - 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar sugar RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed high-sided skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil, drop in all the peeled onions, and return the water to a simmer. Cook about 20 minutes, or until the onions are tender all the way through-pierce them with the point of a paring knife to test. Drain the cipolline and pat them dry.

Heat the b.u.t.ter in the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. When it is melted, scatter the onions in the pan, and toss to roll and coat them with b.u.t.ter. Season with the salt, and cook, tossing frequently, until the onions are brown and caramelized all over, about 5 minutes.

Pour the vinegar into the pan, and sprinkle the sugar into it (use more or less sugar to taste). Shake the skillet, rolling the onions around, as the vinegar comes to a boil and the sugar dissolves. Cook at a boil for 5 minutes or so, frequently tossing the onions, until the syrup thickens and lightly glazes the cipolline.

Serve the cipolline warm, right from the pan with syrup drizzled on top, or cooled to room temperature (the glaze will thicken and can be spooned over).

ERBAZZONEHere are two versions of erbazzone erbazzone, the traditional vegetable tart of Emilia-Romagna: one with a filling of b.u.t.ternut squash, rice, and ricotta, and the second of cooked chard scented with fresh rosemary. The squash is perfect for autumn or winter, and the Swiss chard is great in spring or summer-with these two recipes, you'll be covered for a whole year of home-baked erbazzone. erbazzone.

Both tarts are delicious and versatile, and can be served small as an hors d'oeuvre, or in larger portions as a main course, with a salad, or with a poached egg on top. Though I prefer erbazzone erbazzone served warm, they're fine at room temperature, terrific to take on a picnic or pack as a lunch-box treat. Frozen served warm, they're fine at room temperature, terrific to take on a picnic or pack as a lunch-box treat. Frozen erbazzone erbazzone can be reheated in the oven (or toaster oven) and is nearly as good as when first made. can be reheated in the oven (or toaster oven) and is nearly as good as when first made.

First, however, I give you a tasty olive-oil dough to make the large bottom crust for any erbazzone erbazzone-with either of my fillings or with ones that you have thought of. The dough takes just minutes to mix.

DOUGH FOR E ERBAZZONE.

Makes about a pound of dough, for 1 erbazzone erbazzone - 2 cups all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, plus more for working - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor Put the 2 cups flour and the salt in the food processor fitted with the metal blade. Pulse a few seconds to aerate. Mix the oil with cup cold water in a spouted measuring cup. With the processor running, pour the liquid through the feed tube and process about 30 seconds, until a soft dough forms and gathers on the blade. If the dough is not gathering on the blade, it is probably too dry. Add more water, in small amounts, until you have a smooth, very soft dough.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, and knead by hand for a minute, until it's smooth and soft. Pat into a rectangle, and wrap in plastic wrap. Let rest at room temperature for hour. (The dough can be refrigerated for up to a day, or frozen for a month or more. Defrost in the refrigerator, and return to room temperature before rolling.) ERBAZZONE WITH S SQUASH F FILLING.

Erbazzone di Zucca Makes 12 or more appetizer slices or several dozen hors d'oeuvres Makes 12 or more appetizer slices or several dozen hors d'oeuvres - A b.u.t.ternut squash b.u.t.ternut squash, about 1 pounds - 3 cups milk milk - 1 cup Italian short-grain rice short-grain rice, such as Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone Nano - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 3 large eggs eggs - 2 bunches scallions scallions, finely chopped (about 2 cups) - 1 cups freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - 1 cup fresh ricotta fresh ricotta, drained - 1 cup heavy cream heavy cream - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper to taste to taste - 1 batch Dough for Erbazzone Erbazzone (preceding recipe), at room temperature (preceding recipe), at room temperature - All-purpose flour for rolling the dough for rolling the dough RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed saucepan, 4-quart capacity; a baking stone, if you have one; a 10-by-15-inch jelly-roll pan, or similar-sized rimmed sheet pan To make the filling: Peel the b.u.t.ternut squash, slice it in half lengthwise, and scoop out the seeds. Cut the squash into a few big chunks, and shred them on the coa.r.s.e-shredding holes of a box grater. Heap the shreds on a kitchen towel, wrap them up tightly, and vigorously wring the towel, squeezing out as much liquid from the squash shreds as you can.

Pour the milk into the saucepan, and set it over medium heat. Add the rice, b.u.t.ter, and tea-spoon of the salt, and heat to a boil, stirring occasionally. When the milk is boiling, stir in the shredded squash, and adjust the heat to keep the milk simmering away until it has all been absorbed (though the rice will still be quite al dente al dente), about 12 minutes. Sc.r.a.pe all of the rice and squash into a large bowl, and let it cool a bit.

In a small bowl, beat two of the eggs with the remaining 1 teaspoons salt. When the rice and squash are no longer steaming, stir in the eggs, then the scallions, a cup of grated grana grana, all the ricotta, and the heavy cream. Season with freshly ground black pepper to taste, and stir the filling until thoroughly mixed.

When you're ready to bake the erbazzone erbazzone, set a rack in the bottom half of the oven-with a baking stone on it, if you have one-and heat the oven to 375.

Roll out the dough on a lightly floured work surface, gradually stretching it into a rectangle that's 5 inches longer and wider than the jelly-roll pan. Drape the sheet of dough over the pan, then gently press it flat against the bottom and rims, leaving even flaps of overhanging dough on all sides.

Spread the filling into the dough-lined pan in an even layer over the entire bottom. Fold the dough flaps over the filling, making pleats at the corners, to form a top crust that looks like a picture frame, with the filling exposed in the middle.

Sprinkle the remaining cup grated cheese over the filling. Bake in the oven (on the heated stone) about 25 minutes, until the filling and crust have set but not colored. Beat the remaining egg in a small bowl, and brush it over the crust. Return the erbazzone erbazzone to the oven, and bake another 25 minutes or more, until the crust is golden brown and the filling is crisp on top. to the oven, and bake another 25 minutes or more, until the crust is golden brown and the filling is crisp on top.

Cool the erbazzone erbazzone on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes to set the filling before slicing. The on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes to set the filling before slicing. The erbazzone erbazzone can be served warm or at room temperature, cut into bite-sized, appetizer, or large pieces, in any shape you like. can be served warm or at room temperature, cut into bite-sized, appetizer, or large pieces, in any shape you like.

ERBAZZONE WITH S SWISS C CHARD F FILLING.

Erbazzone di Bietola Makes 12 or more appetizer slices or several dozen hors d'oeuvres Makes 12 or more appetizer slices or several dozen hors d'oeuvres - 2 pounds Swiss chard Swiss chard - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and chopped cloves, peeled and chopped - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 4 large eggs eggs - 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - cup fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary fresh rosemary leaves leaves - 1 batch Dough for Dough for Erbazzone Erbazzone, at room temperature - All-purpose flour for rolling the dough for rolling the dough RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: An 8-quart pot for cooking the Swiss chard; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a baking stone, if you have one; a 10-by-15-inch jelly-roll pan, or similar-sized rimmed sheet pan To make the filling: Cut off the stems at the base of each chard leaf, and if the central rib is thick and tough, cut it out. (Save all the stems and ribs for stock-I do!) Pile up the trimmed leaves, and slice them crosswise into ribbons, about 1 inch thick.

Bring 5 quarts of water to the boil in the big pot, heap all the chard into the pot, and stir, gradually submerging the strips. When the water boils again, adjust the heat to keep it gently bubbling, and simmer the chard until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and cool off, then squeeze the leaves by handfuls, pressing out as much vegetable water as possible.

Pour the olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium heat. Stir in the chopped garlic, and cook until sizzling and fragrant, then scatter the chard in the pan, loosening the compressed ribbons. Add 1 teaspoons salt, and stir and toss for a couple of minutes, until the chard strips are coated with olive oil and starting to cook. Transfer them to a large bowl to cool briefly.

Beat the eggs with the remaining teaspoon salt, and stir them into the warm chard; then thoroughly blend in the grated cheese, bread crumbs, and chopped rosemary.

When you're ready to bake the erbazzone erbazzone, set a rack in the bottom half of the oven-with a baking stone on it, if you have one-and heat the oven to 375.

Roll out the dough on a lightly floured work surface, gradually stretching it into a rectangle that's 5 inches longer and wider than the jelly-roll pan. Drape the sheet of dough over the pan, then gently press it flat against the bottom and rims, leaving even flaps of overhanging dough on all sides.

Spread the filling into the dough-lined pan in an even layer over the entire bottom. Fold the dough flaps over the filling, making pleats at the corners, to form a top crust that looks like a picture frame, with the filling exposed in the middle.

Bake in the oven (on the heated stone) about 45 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown and the filling is crisp on top.

Cool the erbazzone erbazzone on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes to set the filling before slicing. The on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes to set the filling before slicing. The erbazzone erbazzone can be served warm or at room temperature, cut into bite-sized, appetizer, or large pieces, in any shape you like. can be served warm or at room temperature, cut into bite-sized, appetizer, or large pieces, in any shape you like.

TAGLIATELLETagliatelle-also known as "fettuccine" or "lasagnette" "lasagnette"-are long flat ribbons of fresh pasta. And though you can find them all over Italy, nowhere are they made better than in Emilia-Romagna. And the cooks of Emilia-Romagna excel in marrying their golden tagliatelle with a brilliant variety of sauces that perfectly coat the strands and complement the rich flavor and tender texture of the pasta.

In the following pages are recipes for fresh tagliatelle and three distinctive sauces to dress it. This pasta is so good, it will be a delight served with nothing more than sweet b.u.t.ter and freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano. But I hope you'll try all of the sauces I've brought you from Emilia-Romagna. If you're in a hurry, try the uncooked walnut pesto with ricotta, or the luscious fresh Romagnola Tomato Sauce, which takes about half an hour to prepare. For a more complex dish, make the velvety long-cooked "white" raga raga. And if you want to experience the quintessential dish of tagliatelle as it is made in the region, prepare the authentic Raga alla Bolognese Ricetta Tradizionale Raga alla Bolognese Ricetta Tradizionale.

HOMEMADE T TAGLIATELLE.

Makes 1 pounds fresh tagliatelle, serving 6 In addition to tagliatelle, use this rich pasta dough to make all the forms of filled pasta from Emilia-Romagna-anolini, cappellacci, tortelli, and tortellini-that I detail later in the chapter.

- 3 cups all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, plus more as needed - 3 large eggs eggs (cold) (cold) - 3 large egg yolks egg yolks (cold) (cold) - 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 tablespoons ice water ice water, plus more as needed RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor fitted with steel blade; a pasta-rolling machine Put the flour in the bowl of the food processor, and process for a few seconds to aerate. Mix the whole eggs and egg yolks, olive oil, and ice water in a measuring cup with a spout.

Start the machine running with the feed tube open. Pour in the liquids all at once (sc.r.a.pe in all the drippings), and process for 30 to 40 seconds, until a dough forms and gathers on the blade. If the dough does not not gather on the blade or process easily, it is too wet or too dry. Feel the dough and add either more flour or more ice water, in small amounts. Process briefly, until the dough gathers on the blade, and clear the sides of the bowl. gather on the blade or process easily, it is too wet or too dry. Feel the dough and add either more flour or more ice water, in small amounts. Process briefly, until the dough gathers on the blade, and clear the sides of the bowl.

Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface, and knead by hand briefly until it's smooth, soft, and stretchy. Press it into a disk, wrap well in plastic wrap, and let it rest at room temperature for hour. (You can refrigerate this dough for up to a day, or freeze it for a month or more. Defrost frozen dough in the refrigerator; return it to room temperature before rolling.) To make tagliatelle: Cut the dough in six equal pieces. Keeping it lightly floured, roll each piece through the machine at progressively thinner settings into sheets that are 5 inches wide (or as wide as your machine allows) and at least 20 inches long. Cut the long sheets in half crosswise, giving you twelve strips, each almost a foot long.

One at a time, lightly flour each strip, and fold it over into thirds or quarters, creating a small rectangle with three or four layers of pasta. With a sharp knife, cut cleanly through the folded dough crosswise crosswise, at -inch intervals. Shake the cut pieces, opening them into long ribbons of tagliatelle. Dust them liberally with flour, gather into a loose nest, and set it on a floured towel or tray. Fold, cut, and unfurl all the strips this way, piling the tagliatelle in small floured nests. Leave uncovered to air-dry at room temperature, until ready to cook (or freeze the nests on the tray until solid, and pack in airtight ziplock bags).

TAGLIATELLE WITH W WHITE M MEAT S SAUCE.

Tagliatelle con Raga di Carni Bianche Makes about 7 cups, enough for 2 batches (3 pounds) tagliatelle or other pasta Makes about 7 cups, enough for 2 batches (3 pounds) tagliatelle or other pasta In a traditional Raga alla Bolognese Raga alla Bolognese, the ground meats are slowly cooked with tomatoes and red wine and stock, developing a velvety texture and deep, rich flavor. This "white" raga raga streamlines the process and omits most of the tomato, producing a lighter and more delicate sauce with much of the complexity of the cla.s.sic streamlines the process and omits most of the tomato, producing a lighter and more delicate sauce with much of the complexity of the cla.s.sic Bolognese. Bolognese. (And if you want to make it even lighter, you might use ground rabbit meat or turkey or chicken in place of the chopped beef.) Typically used to dress fresh tagliatelle, (And if you want to make it even lighter, you might use ground rabbit meat or turkey or chicken in place of the chopped beef.) Typically used to dress fresh tagliatelle, raga di carni bianche raga di carni bianche is also delicious as a sauce for other pastas, lasagna, polenta, and gnocchi. is also delicious as a sauce for other pastas, lasagna, polenta, and gnocchi.

This recipe makes enough sauce to dress two batches of my fresh tagliatelle; use half the sauce for one dinner, and freeze the rest for a great meal to come.

- FOR THE SAUCE - 1 pound ground beef beef - 1 pound ground pork pork - 1 pound ground veal veal - 2 medium onions onions, cut in chunks - 1 medium carrot carrot, cut in chunks - 1 medium stalk celery celery, cut in chunks - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 4 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 1 cup white wine white wine - 2 tablespoons tomato paste tomato paste - 1 cups whole milk whole milk - 6 to 8 cups very hot light stock light stock (chicken, turkey, or vegetable broth) or water (chicken, turkey, or vegetable broth) or water - 2 fresh bay leaves bay leaves - FOR THE PASTA - 1 batch (1 pounds) Homemade Tagliatelle Homemade Tagliatelle - 1 cup or so freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for the table - Extra-virgin olive oil for finishing for finishing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy-bottomed saucepan or braising pan, 12-inch diameter, with a cover For the sauce: Put the ground meats in a large bowl; loosen, crumble, and toss the meats together with your fingers.

Drop the chunks of onion, carrot, and celery into the food processor, and mince fine, to an even-textured paste. Pour the olive oil and drop the b.u.t.ter into the big saucepan, and set over medium-high heat. When the b.u.t.ter has melted, sc.r.a.pe in the paste, or pestata pestata, season with 1 teaspoon of the salt, and cook and stir the pestata pestata until it has dried out and just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes. until it has dried out and just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes.

Quickly crumble all the meat into the pan, stir with the pestata pestata, sprinkle over it 1 more teaspoon of salt, and cook, tossing and stirring occasionally, until the meat starts to release its juices. Turn up the heat a bit, and continue cooking and stirring the meat as the juices evaporate, about 10 minutes, taking care that the meat doesn't brown or crisp.

When the juices have disappeared, pour in the white wine, bring it to a bubbling simmer, and cook until evaporated, 2 or 3 minutes. Meanwhile, stir the tomato paste into the milk until blended. When the wine has cooked away, pour in the milk and cook, stirring, until it has cooked down.

Now ladle 2 cups or more of the hot stock (or water) into the pan, just enough to cover the meat. Stir in the bay leaves and the remaining salt, and bring the liquid to an active simmer. Cover the pan, adjust the heat so the liquid is steadily bubbling (not boiling rapidly), and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, as the broth gradually reduces. Stir in about 2 more cups hot stock, just to cover the meat again, then give another 20-minute period of covered cooking and reducing. Stir in a final addition of 2 cups stock, and cook, covered, until the raga raga is thick and concentrated, 20 minutes or so. (The sauce should have cooked for at least an hour and incorporated 6 to 8 cups of stock in total.) is thick and concentrated, 20 minutes or so. (The sauce should have cooked for at least an hour and incorporated 6 to 8 cups of stock in total.) Taste the raga raga and adjust the seasoning. If you've prepared it in advance, let it cool, then refrigerate and freeze as you wish. Or you can remove about half (for future use) and prepare tagliatelle now, keeping about 3 cups of freshly cooked sauce in the big saucepan, to dress the pasta. and adjust the seasoning. If you've prepared it in advance, let it cool, then refrigerate and freeze as you wish. Or you can remove about half (for future use) and prepare tagliatelle now, keeping about 3 cups of freshly cooked sauce in the big saucepan, to dress the pasta.

To cook the tagliatelle: Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil. Shake the nests of tagliatelle in a colander or strainer to remove excess flour. Drop all the pasta into the pot at once, and stir to loosen and separate the strands. Cover the pot, and return the water to a boil rapidly. Set the cover ajar, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes or more, until barely al dente al dente (the pasta will cook a bit more in the pan of sauce). (the pasta will cook a bit more in the pan of sauce).

Meanwhile, heat the raga raga to a simmer. If it has cooled (or been chilled or frozen), it will have thickened, so reheat it slowly in a wide pan, stirring in a cup or so of stock or water, to loosen it. to a simmer. If it has cooled (or been chilled or frozen), it will have thickened, so reheat it slowly in a wide pan, stirring in a cup or so of stock or water, to loosen it.

Lift the al dente al dente tagliatelle from the cooking pot quickly, with a spider and tongs, drain briefly, and drop the pasta into the simmering tagliatelle from the cooking pot quickly, with a spider and tongs, drain briefly, and drop the pasta into the simmering raga. raga. Toss together, over low heat, for a minute or more, until all the strands are coated and perfectly cooked. Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat. Toss together, over low heat, for a minute or more, until all the strands are coated and perfectly cooked. Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the tagliatelle, and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

TAGLIATELLE WITH W WALNUT P PESTO.

Tagliatelle al Pesto di Noci Serves 6 as main course Serves 6 as main course This uncooked dressing, enriched with ricotta and b.u.t.ter, is delicious and quite different from the herb-based pestos I've found in other regions. You can blend it together in a bowl while the pasta water is heating up and have a distinctive pasta appetizer or main course in minutes. To retain its vibrant, fresh flavors, it is important not to cook the pesto, just toss it with the tagliatelle and serve.

- FOR THE PESTO - 2 cups walnut walnut halves or pieces, toasted halves or pieces, toasted - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 1 cups ricotta ricotta, preferably fresh, drained - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 6 tablespoons freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing - 3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper to taste to taste - FOR THE PASTA - 1 batch (1 pounds) Homemade Tagliatelle Homemade Tagliatelle - 3 tablespoons soft b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - Freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano for the table for the table RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a large, deep serving bowl, big enough to toss all the pasta in Heat a large pot of well-salted water to the boil while you are preparing the pesto.

Put the walnuts and garlic in the food processor, and pulse until the nuts are chopped into very tiny bits (but don't grind them to a powder). Sc.r.a.pe the ground nut-garlic mixture into the large bowl, and stir in the ricotta, olive oil, grated cheese, parsley, salt, and pepper, until thoroughly blended.

When the pesto is ready and the water is boiling, shake the nests of tagliatelle in a colander or strainer to remove excess flour. Drop all the pasta into the pot at once, and stir to loosen and separate the strands. Cover the pot, and over high heat return the water to a boil rapidly. Set the cover ajar, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 4 minutes (or more, depending on thickness), until the tagliatelle are perfectly al dente al dente-in this dish, the pasta does not cook further when tossed with the pesto.

Working quickly, lift out the tagliatelle with a spider and tongs, and drop into the bowl with the dressing. Drop the soft b.u.t.ter in dollops on the hot pasta, and toss until all the strands are nicely coated with the pesto-if the dressing is too thick, loosen it with a bit of hot water from the pasta pot as you toss.

Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more grated cheese at the table.

TAGLIATELLE WITH R ROMAGNOLA T TOMATO S SAUCE.

Tagliatelle alla Romagnola Makes sauce for 1 batch (1 pounds) tagliatelle or other pasta, serving 6 Makes sauce for 1 batch (1 pounds) tagliatelle or other pasta, serving 6 Just as the Neapolitans have their marinara, Romagnola cuisine also offers a savory, meatless tomato sauce as an essential pasta dressing. This version is made from fresh tomatoes-round, plum, or small cherry tomatoes can all be used-and cooks in the time it takes to heat the pasta water. A small amount of tomato paste is called for, and although you can omit it, I think it lends complexity to the sauce and makes it cling to the golden ribbons of tagliatelle so much better.

This recipe makes enough for one batch of fresh tagliatelle, but if you have plenty of fresh tomatoes, you should certainly double the sauce formula and freeze half to use another time.

- FOR THE SAUCE - 3 pounds ripe tomatoes tomatoes (round, plum, or cherry varieties are all fine) (round, plum, or cherry varieties are all fine) - 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced cloves, peeled and thinly sliced - 1 sprig fresh rosemary rosemary (a short branch with lots of leaves) (a short branch with lots of leaves) - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 2 tablespoons tomato paste tomato paste - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - FOR THE PASTA - 1 batch (1 pounds) Homemade Tagliatelle Homemade Tagliatelle - cup or so freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for the table - 2 tablespoons or so extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil for finishing for finishing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger For the sauce: Core the tomatoes, and cut them in half. With round or plum tomatoes, squeeze out seeds into a sieve placed over a bowl-save the juices and discard the seeds-then chop the tomatoes into -inch pieces. Cherry tomatoes need only be cut in half.

Pour the olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Scatter the garlic slices in the pan, and heat for a minute or so, until they start sizzling. Toss in the rosemary sprig and peperoncino, let them heat for a few moments, then drop the tomato paste into a clear hot spot in the pan bottom. Toast the tomato paste for a minute, then pour in the chopped tomatoes, sprinkle on the salt, and stir all together.

Cook the tomatoes for a couple of minutes, until they begin to release their liquid. Pour in the reserved tomato juices from the bowl, along with cup or so of water (use it to slosh out the tomato bowl). Bring the sauce to a boil, then adjust heat to keep it perking steadily. Cook, uncovered, until tomatoes break down into a chunky sauce, about 10 to 12 minutes. When the sauce is done, stir in the parsley and turn off the heat (or keep it barely simmering if you are ready to cook the pasta).

To cook the tagliatelle: Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Shake the nests of tagliatelle in a colander or strainer to remove excess flour. Drop all the pasta into the pot at once, and stir to loosen and separate the strands. Cover the pot, and return the water to a boil rapidly. Set the cover ajar, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes or more, until barely al dente al dente (it will cook a bit more in the sauce). (it will cook a bit more in the sauce).

Have the tomato sauce at a simmer; if it has cooled and thickened, loosen it with a bit of the hot pasta-cooking water. Lift the tagliatelle from the cooking pot quickly, with a spider and tongs, drain briefly, and drop into the simmering raga. raga. Toss together, over low heat, for a minute or more, until all the strands are coated and perfectly cooked. Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat. Toss together, over low heat, for a minute or more, until all the strands are coated and perfectly cooked. Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle cup or so of grated cheese over the tagliatelle, and toss well. Drizzle a couple of tablespoons of olive oil all over, and toss again. Heap the pasta in warm bowls, and serve immediately, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table.

FILLED PASTA RECIPESAnolini are one of the cla.s.sic filled pastas of Emilia-Romagna, very small, delicate pasta disks, enclosing morsels of savory pork filling, served in a rich broth. My version was inspired by the are one of the cla.s.sic filled pastas of Emilia-Romagna, very small, delicate pasta disks, enclosing morsels of savory pork filling, served in a rich broth. My version was inspired by the anolini in brodo anolini in brodo prepared for me by Carmen Maletti at her home in Modena (where the Maletti family makes extraordinary prepared for me by Carmen Maletti at her home in Modena (where the Maletti family makes extraordinary aceto balsamico tradizionale aceto balsamico tradizionale).

Because anolini anolini are small-and your loved ones will each ask for 15 or 20 of the little treasures, enough to go with every spoonful of broth-my recipe makes enough for ten servings, about 150 to 200 are small-and your loved ones will each ask for 15 or 20 of the little treasures, enough to go with every spoonful of broth-my recipe makes enough for ten servings, about 150 to 200 anolini anolini (depending on how thin you roll the dough). Though this may seem like an enormous undertaking, I a.s.sure you that it is not. The dough and filling are easy to make (and can be done in advance), and the technique I give you for forming the (depending on how thin you roll the dough). Though this may seem like an enormous undertaking, I a.s.sure you that it is not. The dough and filling are easy to make (and can be done in advance), and the technique I give you for forming the anolini anolini will produce dozens of little disks every few minutes. The procedure is fun-kids are great will produce dozens of little disks every few minutes. The procedure is fun-kids are great anolini anolini-makers, I have found-and goes faster every time you do it. Even the first time you make these, I bet you'll feel like a real pasta-maker from Bologna!

The effort will also reward you with a pasta delicacy that you can enjoy in many ways. In this recipe, I provide instructions for serving six, which will use about half your anolini anolini, leaving you half to freeze for soup suppers in the months ahead. Simply cook up a handful of frozen anolini anolini in hot broth, perhaps just for yourself, whenever you want. Of course, you could prepare your entire batch of pasta at once as a cla.s.sic in hot broth, perhaps just for yourself, whenever you want. Of course, you could prepare your entire batch of pasta at once as a cla.s.sic anolini alla parmigiana anolini alla parmigiana for a dozen guests-it would be a meal they would never forget. for a dozen guests-it would be a meal they would never forget.

And whether you are serving one or a dozen, anolini anolini are always best in a rich homemade are always best in a rich homemade brodo brodo, such as my Chicken Stock. They deserve such special treatment.

ANOLINI WITH P PORK F FILLING IN C CHICKEN B BROTH.

Anolini alla Parmigiana Makes 150 to 200 Makes 150 to 200 anolini anolini, serving 10 to 12, with cooking and finishing instructions to serve 6 - FOR THE FILLING AND MAKING THE ANOLINI ANOLINI - pound boneless pork shoulder pork shoulder - small onion onion, cut in chunks - small carrot carrot, cut in chunks - small stalk celery celery, cut in chunks - 1 thick slice pancetta pancetta, cut in -inch pieces (about 1 ounce) - 1 teaspoons crumbled dried porcini dried porcini - 1 small sprig fresh rosemary fresh rosemary - 1 teaspoons tomato paste tomato paste - cup hot chicken broth chicken broth - 2 ounces mortadella mortadella, cubed - 1 slice day-old bread bread - 1 large egg egg - Pinch of kosher salt kosher salt - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg nutmeg - Fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs, as needed - 1 pounds dough for Homemade Tagliatelle Homemade Tagliatelle - All-purpose flour for rolling and forming the for rolling and forming the anolini anolini - FOR COOKING AND DRESSING 6 PORTIONS OF ANOLINI ANOLINI - 2 to 3 quarts Chicken Stock Chicken Stock - 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A small roasting pan; a meat grinder with coa.r.s.e grinding plate; a pasta-rolling machine; a 1-inch-diameter round pastry or cookie cutter; a narrow pastry brush; trays or baking sheets lined with floured parchment or kitchen towels To make the filling: Preheat oven to 425. Cut the pork shoulder into 2-inch pieces, tr.i.m.m.i.n.g away any excess fat or cartilage as you go. Put the meat in the small roasting pan along with the onion, carrot, celery, pancetta, porcini, and rosemary. Spread the tomato paste on the meat and vegetables, and toss to coat. Pour the hot stock into the pan.

Roast the meat and vegetables, uncovered, until the meat is brown and tender and the pan juices have reduced to a thick gravy, about 1 hour. (If the meat is tender and the juices are still too thin, remove the pan from the oven and reduce on top of the stove.) Let the meat, vegetables, and juices cool. Toss in the cubes of mortadella and run the entire mixture through the meat grinder into a large bowl. Run day-old bread through the grinder to clean out the last bit of meat (and catch it in the bowl). Beat the egg with a pinch of salt, and pour over the meat, along with the grated cheese, nutmeg, and bread crumbs. With your hands, work everything together to make a smooth stuffing.

To make the anolini: anolini: Cut the dough in six equal pieces; work with two pieces of dough at a time, and keep the others covered. Roll one piece of dough through the pasta machine at progressively wider settings, always keeping it lightly floured, until you've created a long strip, as wide as your machine allows, and a little less than inch thick. Lay it out on the work surface. Roll out the second piece of dough to a strip of the same size. Cut the dough in six equal pieces; work with two pieces of dough at a time, and keep the others covered. Roll one piece of dough through the pasta machine at progressively wider settings, always keeping it lightly floured, until you've created a long strip, as wide as your machine allows, and a little less than inch thick. Lay it out on the work surface. Roll out the second piece of dough to a strip of the same size.

Lay one strip in front of you. Mark where you will be making the anolini anolini by lightly pressing the 1-inch cutter on the dough-don't cut through it-fitting as many outlined circles on the strip as you can. by lightly pressing the 1-inch cutter on the dough-don't cut through it-fitting as many outlined circles on the strip as you can.

Scoop small portions of the filling- to teaspoon-and mound them in the center of all the circles. With the pastry brush (or your fingertip) dipped in water, lightly moisten the rim of the outlined circle around the filling mounds. Lay the second strip of dough over the first, gently stretching and draping it to cover all the mounds. Now center the cutter over each filling mound, and press it firmly, cleanly slicing through both layers of dough and cutting out the anolini. anolini. Pull away the excess dough to separate individual pieces, lightly dusting with flour as needed. Press the edges of the pasta circles together if they have gaps. Arrange the Pull away the excess dough to separate individual pieces, lightly dusting with flour as needed. Press the edges of the pasta circles together if they have gaps. Arrange the anolini anolini in a single layer on a floured and lined tray, and cover them lightly. in a single layer on a floured and lined tray, and cover them lightly.

Now roll out and fill the remaining pieces of pasta dough, in pairs, to make two more batches of anolini anolini, in the same way. Anolini Anolini that you will cook soon can be left on the tray, lightly covered. Freeze that you will cook soon can be left on the tray, lightly covered. Freeze anolini anolini for future use right on the trays. When they are frozen solid, transfer them to freezer bags, packed airtight and sealed. for future use right on the trays. When they are frozen solid, transfer them to freezer bags, packed airtight and sealed.

To cook and serve anolini anolini in broth for six, you will need about a hundred in broth for six, you will need about a hundred anolini anolini, so everyone gets at least fifteen in a bowl of soup. (Of course, you can vary this number, depending on the size of your pasta pieces, the appet.i.te of those you are feeding, and what else you've prepared for the meal.) Fill a large pasta pot-preferably with a wide diameter, so the anolini anolini won't be crowded-with at least 6 quarts well-salted water, and bring to the boil. At the same time, heat the Chicken Stock in another pot, so it is just simmering. Have your soup bowls warm and ready for filling. won't be crowded-with at least 6 quarts well-salted water, and bring to the boil. At the same time, heat the Chicken Stock in another pot, so it is just simmering. Have your soup bowls warm and ready for filling.

With the pasta water at a full rolling boil, spill in all the anolini anolini, stir well, cover the pot, and return the water to the boil over high heat. Give the anolini anolini another good stir, and let them cook for a quick minute, just until they're barely another good stir, and let them cook for a quick minute, just until they're barely al dente. al dente. Check one for doneness-the thickest part of the pasta should still be slightly resilient, since the Check one for doneness-the thickest part of the pasta should still be slightly resilient, since the anolini anolini will continue to cook and soften in the will continue to cook and soften in the brodo. brodo.

Turn off the heat and, with a big spider or other strainer, scoop out hot anolini anolini, let them drain for a second, and spill fifteen to twenty into each of the warm soup bowls. Quickly ladle hot broth into each bowl (1 to 2 cups a serving), and sprinkle over each a heaping spoonful or two of grated cheese. Serve each bowl of anolini in brodo anolini in brodo while piping hot, with more grated cheese pa.s.sed around the table. while piping hot, with more grated cheese pa.s.sed around the table.

If you want to serve the soup right at the table, bring out the pot of hot Chicken Stock and set it on a trivet, then drain the anolini anolini and divide them among the soup bowls in the kitchen. Bring the bowls filled with and divide them among the soup bowls in the kitchen. Bring the bowls filled with anolini anolini to the table, add the Chicken Stock, and serve. to the table, add the Chicken Stock, and serve.

TORTELLINI WITH R RICOTTA-FONTINA F FILLING.