Lidia Cooks From The Heart Of Italy Part 11

Heat the tomato sauce in a small pot until bubbling, then turn off the heat and whisk in 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter until incorporated. Spread another 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter, or as needed, in the baking dish, coating the bottom and sides well.

To fill each scrippella: scrippella: Lay it flat, scatter about a tablespoon of chopped spinach in the center, and sprinkle tablespoon or so grated cheese on top. Fold the Lay it flat, scatter about a tablespoon of chopped spinach in the center, and sprinkle tablespoon or so grated cheese on top. Fold the scrippella scrippella in half and then into quarter-rounds. Repeat until all the in half and then into quarter-rounds. Repeat until all the scrippelle scrippelle are filled and folded. are filled and folded.

Spread cup of the tomato sauce in the bottom of the b.u.t.tered baking dish. Arrange the filled and folded scrippelle scrippelle in the dish in overlapping rows, with the pointed ends covered and the pretty fanlike edges visible. Spoon the remaining sauce on top of the in the dish in overlapping rows, with the pointed ends covered and the pretty fanlike edges visible. Spoon the remaining sauce on top of the scrippelle scrippelle, in streaks down the center of the rows-don't try to cover them completely. Sprinkle the remaining grated cheese (or a bit more if needed) lightly all over the top.

Cover the pan with aluminum foil, making sure the foil doesn't touch the cheese. Bake for about 15 minutes, remove the foil, and bake until the sauce is bubbling and the gratinato gratinato topping is golden and crispy, about 10 minutes more. Serve very hot, right from the dish. topping is golden and crispy, about 10 minutes more. Serve very hot, right from the dish.

SCRIPPELLE IN S SOUP, ABRUZZO-STYLEA delicious soup becomes a great dish when it gets the right garnish. In Abruzzo, cooks use scrippelle scrippelle to give their fine soups an extra dimension of taste, texture, and substance. to give their fine soups an extra dimension of taste, texture, and substance.A favorite technique (which I recommend to you) is to slice the scrippelle scrippelle into thin strips like pasta, let them dry, then drop them into soups (or into the bowl before the soup goes in) to become marvelous instant noodles. For even more flavor-and great crunch-fry these into thin strips like pasta, let them dry, then drop them into soups (or into the bowl before the soup goes in) to become marvelous instant noodles. For even more flavor-and great crunch-fry these scrippelle scrippelle ribbons until very crisp in a skillet, and use them as a garnish. ribbons until very crisp in a skillet, and use them as a garnish.Another wonderful method is to grate a bit of good pecorino over a round scrippella scrippella and fold it in quarters (just as the pancakes are folded for the spinach ca.s.serole). Place one of these packets in each bowl, pour over it the steaming soup, and serve. As I hope you will soon find, the pleasure of even the plainest broth is immeasurably increased through this simple touch. and fold it in quarters (just as the pancakes are folded for the spinach ca.s.serole). Place one of these packets in each bowl, pour over it the steaming soup, and serve. As I hope you will soon find, the pleasure of even the plainest broth is immeasurably increased through this simple touch.GET Y YOURSELF A C CHITARRA!Some of you are probably wondering, "Do I really need an imported chitarra chitarra to make this to make this maccheroni maccheroni?" I say yes. You and your family will find it great fun to cut pasta dough through a chitarra chitarra and then enjoy the pleasures that only fresh homemade and then enjoy the pleasures that only fresh homemade maccheroni' maccheroni's distinctive textural character can give.Fortunately, it is now easy to find and purchase a st.u.r.dy chitarra chitarra (some made in Abruzzo) for under $50 in the United States. I recommend a traditional (some made in Abruzzo) for under $50 in the United States. I recommend a traditional chitarra chitarra, with two sets of strings on the frame, which allows you to cut very thin pasta strands (especially nice for cooking in soups) as well as perfect thick, four-sided maccheroni. maccheroni. Make them once, and I am certain you will use your Make them once, and I am certain you will use your chitarra chitarra often! (And remember that, just as a guitar needs to be tuned before playing, so does the often! (And remember that, just as a guitar needs to be tuned before playing, so does the maccheroni chitarra. maccheroni chitarra. Before each use, pluck on the strings and make sure they are taut and properly set in their notches on the Before each use, pluck on the strings and make sure they are taut and properly set in their notches on the chitarra chitarra frame. Most frame. Most chitarre chitarre have instructions for tightening the strings, usually a simple matter of turning the k.n.o.bs that hold them.) have instructions for tightening the strings, usually a simple matter of turning the k.n.o.bs that hold them.)If you don't yet have a chitarra chitarra, though, you can make the pasta dough, roll it, and cut strands with the cutting attachment of your pasta machine or by hand. And if you only have dry pasta, you can certainly use what you have in place of fresh maccheroni maccheroni with any of my sauce recipes. Spaghetti or linguine will always work well, and recently I've noticed that many top pasta manufacturers now make long dry " with any of my sauce recipes. Spaghetti or linguine will always work well, and recently I've noticed that many top pasta manufacturers now make long dry "spaghetti alla chitarra," with thick, square-cut strands that resemble maccheroni maccheroni cut on a cut on a chitarra. chitarra. Although they will never replace homemade Although they will never replace homemade maccheroni maccheroni in my kitchen, they are a fine pasta to use in any of the recipes here. in my kitchen, they are a fine pasta to use in any of the recipes here.

HOMEMADE M MACCHERONI A ALLA C CHITARRA.

Makes about 1 pound, serving 6 as a primo primo or 4 as main dish or 4 as main dish The dough for maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra has to be slightly firmer than usual for fresh pasta; it requires a bit more flour, so it will cut neatly when pressed against the has to be slightly firmer than usual for fresh pasta; it requires a bit more flour, so it will cut neatly when pressed against the chitarra. chitarra. If you have a kitchen scale, weighing the flour is best: start with 10 ounces of flour, equivalent to 2 cups of unsifted flour, slightly packed, and add more as needed. Though I always tell you that you can make fresh pasta dough by hand (because it is so easy!), here I recommend the food-processor method, to incorporate the greater amount of flour quickly. If you have a kitchen scale, weighing the flour is best: start with 10 ounces of flour, equivalent to 2 cups of unsifted flour, slightly packed, and add more as needed. Though I always tell you that you can make fresh pasta dough by hand (because it is so easy!), here I recommend the food-processor method, to incorporate the greater amount of flour quickly.

- 2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, plus more as needed - 4 large eggs eggs - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor fitted with a steel blade; a pasta-rolling machine or wooden rolling pin; a wooden chitarra chitarra Measure 2 full cups of unsifted flour (or weigh out 10 ounces), and dump it all in the food-processor bowl; process for a few seconds to aerate.

Beat the eggs with the salt in a spouted measuring cup. With the food processor running, quickly pour in all the eggs through the feed tube. Process continuously, as a dough forms and gathers on the blade and cleans the side of the bowl. If the dough does not come together or clean the bowl after 30 seconds or so, stop the machine, sc.r.a.pe down the sides, and sprinkle in a couple of tablespoons more flour. Process for a few more seconds-and add more flour if necessary-until a fairly firm ball of dough forms.

Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface, and knead by hand for a minute or more, until it is smooth and firm. If it's at all sticky, incorporate more flour as you knead. Press the dough into a disk, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature for at least hour. (You can refrigerate the dough for up to a day, or freeze for a month or more. Defrost in the refrigerator, and return to room temperature before rolling.) Cut the dough in four equal pieces.

If using a pasta machine: Roll each piece through the machine at progressively thinner settings, to form long wide strips, about inch thick (no thinner) and as wide as your machine allows. If the strip grows longer than the strings of your chitarra, cut it crosswise into two shorter strips.

To roll by hand: Lightly flour the work surface and your rolling pin. Flatten each piece of dough into a rectangle with your palm, and roll it from the center, gradually lengthening it into a broad strip about inch thick. Don't roll the dough too thin or longer or wider than the strings of your chitarra.

To cut maccheroni: maccheroni: Lay a strip of dough over the strings of the Lay a strip of dough over the strings of the chitarra chitarra (on a two-sided (on a two-sided chitarra chitarra, use the more widely s.p.a.ced strings). Using gentle but constant pressure, roll your pin lengthwise up and down the pasta, so the strings cut it cleanly into strands of maccheroni maccheroni that fall onto the tray of the that fall onto the tray of the chitarra. chitarra. Dust the freshly cut strands with flour, and gather them into a loose nest on a floured tray. Cut all the strips into Dust the freshly cut strands with flour, and gather them into a loose nest on a floured tray. Cut all the strips into maccheroni maccheroni, and collect them in floured nests. Leave the tray uncovered at room temperature until you are ready to cook the pasta.

To cook a whole batch of maccheroni: maccheroni: Bring to boiling a large pot of well-salted water (at least 6 quarts with a tablespoon or more of salt). Using your hand or a colander, shake excess flour off the nests of Bring to boiling a large pot of well-salted water (at least 6 quarts with a tablespoon or more of salt). Using your hand or a colander, shake excess flour off the nests of maccheroni maccheroni, and drop them into the pot. Stir and separate the strands as the water returns to a rolling boil, then cook the pasta for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until al dente. al dente. (See the many sauce recipes that follow for instructions on dressing (See the many sauce recipes that follow for instructions on dressing maccheroni alla chitarra. maccheroni alla chitarra.) To freeze the cut maccheroni: maccheroni: Set the whole tray in the freezer. When the nests are solid, seal them in airtight plastic bags and pack in a container, so they don't get crushed. (Frozen Set the whole tray in the freezer. When the nests are solid, seal them in airtight plastic bags and pack in a container, so they don't get crushed. (Frozen maccheroni maccheroni can be dropped right into the pasta cooking pot; stir gently to separate the strands as they soften.) can be dropped right into the pasta cooking pot; stir gently to separate the strands as they soften.) Clockwise from top left: Nidi Nidi (nests) of (nests) of maccheroni alla chitarra; maccheroni alla chitarra; cutting the cutting the maccheroni maccheroni on the on the chitarra; chitarra; a hungry Abruzze eating his a hungry Abruzze eating his maccheroni maccheroni THE P PRIDE OF A ABRUZZO:MACCHERONI A ALLA C CHITARRA.

Though many distinctive foods of Abruzzo are relatively little known outside of the rugged region, the fresh egg pasta called maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra is famous all over Italy and beyond. No doubt it is primarily known for the unique way it is made: sheets of rolled-out pasta are pressed against the taut strings of a is famous all over Italy and beyond. No doubt it is primarily known for the unique way it is made: sheets of rolled-out pasta are pressed against the taut strings of a chitarra chitarra-a guitar-and fall apart into long strands.

This cutting method is not just a charming old custom, however. The chitarra chitarra makes pasta strands that, when cooked, have wonderfully satisfying texture and substance. In my opinion, this sensation of mouth-feel is one of the great gustatory pleasures, and makes pasta strands that, when cooked, have wonderfully satisfying texture and substance. In my opinion, this sensation of mouth-feel is one of the great gustatory pleasures, and maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra provides it in every bite. provides it in every bite.

The Abruzzesi are unabashed in their enjoyment of their signature pasta (which they always call maccheroni maccheroni, never spaghetti alla chitarra spaghetti alla chitarra), cooking it up for quick dinners and grand holiday meals. And if they don't have time to make it themselves, they'll buy a fresh-cut batch from a small local pastificio pastificio, or pasta shop, on the way home.

In these pages, I'm giving you a taste of this rich regional pasta tradition with the preceding recipe for homemade maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra, as well as a variety of typical dressings, both simple, uncooked condiments and more elaborate cooked sauces. These are but a small sample of the many maccheroni maccheroni dishes you'll find in Abruzzo, enough to provide you with many fine meals and, I hope, spark your own creativity with one of the world's great pastas. dishes you'll find in Abruzzo, enough to provide you with many fine meals and, I hope, spark your own creativity with one of the world's great pastas.

UNCOOKED O OLIVE O OIL S SAUCEThe resourceful cooks of Abruzzo are never at a loss for quick and delicious ways to dress maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra or the excellent dry pastas made in the region. As these recipes for uncooked dressings show, they can take whatever's on hand-locally pressed olive oil, a few cloves of garlic, their beloved hot pepper, a cl.u.s.ter of fresh herbs, a pinch of saffron, a handful of nuts, or other native ingredients-and produce a wonderful sauce in minutes. or the excellent dry pastas made in the region. As these recipes for uncooked dressings show, they can take whatever's on hand-locally pressed olive oil, a few cloves of garlic, their beloved hot pepper, a cl.u.s.ter of fresh herbs, a pinch of saffron, a handful of nuts, or other native ingredients-and produce a wonderful sauce in minutes.The foundation for these simple sauces-and the endless variations you might enjoy in Abruzzo-is the distinctive fruity olive oils of the region. Extra-virgin oils from the provinces of Teramo, Pescara, and Chieti have achieved DOP (name-protected) status and are available here. Certainly these superb oils will give your maccheroni maccheroni (or other pasta) a truly authentic Abruzzese flavor, but any top-quality Italian extra-virgin olive oil will make a delicious sauce, too. (or other pasta) a truly authentic Abruzzese flavor, but any top-quality Italian extra-virgin olive oil will make a delicious sauce, too.Please don't limit your enjoyment of these sauces to pasta, because they are marvelously versatile condiments for meats, fish, poultry, and vegetables, too. They need only a whirl in the food processor and they will keep for weeks. I hope you try them all!

BASIL, PARSLEY & W & WALNUT P PESTO.

Pesto di Noci e Basilico Makes about 1 cups, enough for a pound of Makes about 1 cups, enough for a pound of Maccheroni alla Chitarra Maccheroni alla Chitarra (preceding recipe) or other pasta (preceding recipe) or other pasta This distinctively flavored pesto is a superb dressing for maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra, spaghetti, or linguine, or a short dry pasta such as gemelli, lumache, or rigatoni. It's a great condiment, too: put a spoonful on fish or chicken hot off the grill for a real treat. Make extra pesto when basil and parsley are plentiful, in summer, and freeze it in small containers to use through the winter.

- 1 cups loosely packed fresh basil fresh basil leaves leaves - 1 cup loosely packed fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley leaves leaves - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 2 cups walnut walnut halves or pieces, toasted halves or pieces, toasted - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus a bit more for storing - TO DRESS THE PASTA - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano- Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano- Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor If you're using the pesto right away to dress maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra (or other pasta), heat a large pot of salted water to a boil before processing the sauce. (or other pasta), heat a large pot of salted water to a boil before processing the sauce.

To make the pesto: Heap the basil, parsley, garlic, walnuts, and salt into the food processor. Pulse several times, to chop everything together coa.r.s.ely, then, with the machine running, pour in the cup olive oil in a slow, steady stream. Stop and sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the work bowl, and process to a uniformly fine bright-green pesto.

Put all the pesto into a large, deep bowl, big enough to toss all the pasta in. Meanwhile, start cooking the maccheroni maccheroni or other pasta. Shortly before it is done, ladle cup or so of the boiling pasta water into the bowl, and stir to warm and loosen the pesto-use only as much water as needed to bring the pesto to tossing consistency. or other pasta. Shortly before it is done, ladle cup or so of the boiling pasta water into the bowl, and stir to warm and loosen the pesto-use only as much water as needed to bring the pesto to tossing consistency.

When the maccheroni maccheroni is perfectly is perfectly al dente al dente, lift it from the pot with tongs and a spider, drain it for an instant, then drop it into the bowl. Toss the pasta and sauce together thoroughly. Sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over it, then toss again. Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more cheese at the table.

To store and use the pesto later: Sc.r.a.pe it from the food processor into a small jar or container. Smooth the top surface, and cover it with a thin layer of olive oil or a piece of plastic wrap to prevent discoloration. Refrigerate for a week, or freeze for several months; warm to room temperature before using.

PARSLEY S SAUCE WITH F FRESH R RIPE T TOMATOES.

Pesto di Prezzemolo con Pomodori Freschi Makes enough parsley sauce (with or without tomatoes) for a pound of Makes enough parsley sauce (with or without tomatoes) for a pound of Maccheroni alla Chitarra Maccheroni alla Chitarra or other pasta or other pasta This recipe actually gives you two flavorful sauces, to use as a dressing for pasta or to give a fresh accent to all sorts of dishes, from steamed vegetables to roasted meats. The basic sauce is a simple, loose parsley pesto, quite good and easily whipped up any time of year. In summer, I cut ripe, sweet tomatoes into small pieces and mix them into the pesto. The juices and flesh of the tomatoes merge with the parsley sauce, creating a new dressing with multiple dimensions of flavor and texture.

- 2 cups loosely packed fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley leaves leaves - 3 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes or to taste or to taste - 1 or 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 pounds ripe tomatoes tomatoes, either full-sized or cherry tomatoes - TO DRESS THE PASTA - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor To make the basic sauce: Put the parsley leaves, garlic, peperoncino, and 1 teaspoon salt in the food-processor bowl. Pulse several times to chop the leaves coa.r.s.ely, then, with the machine running, pour in all the olive oil in a steady stream. Stop and sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the work bowl, and process to a fine-textured, very loose pesto. Use this parsley sauce right away to dress pasta or as a condiment. To store, sc.r.a.pe the sauce into a small container, cover the top surface with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for a day (or freeze for later use; defrost at room temperature).

For parsley sauce with tomatoes: Prepare the tomatoes before processing the basic sauce. For full-sized round tomatoes, cut out the cores, slice the tomatoes in half, and squeeze out the seeds, then cut the flesh into 1-inch chunks. For cherry tomatoes, simply slice them in half. Put all the cut tomato pieces in a deep bowl, and toss with 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Let the tomatoes sit for a few minutes to release their juices while you process the parsley sauce, as detailed above. Pour the freshly made parsley sauce over the cut tomatoes, and toss together well. Use within an hour or two. If it waits longer the freshness and bright color of the parsley vanishes.

To dress the pasta with either the basic parsley sauce or the parsley-tomato sauce: Put the sauce in a bowl big enough for tossing. Cook the pasta until al dente al dente-take some of the boiling pasta water to loosen the parsley sauce only if it seems too dense to toss. When the maccheroni maccheroni is done, drain and drop it into the bowl with the sauce. Toss well, then sprinkle over it a cup or so of grated cheese, and toss again. Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more cheese at the table. is done, drain and drop it into the bowl with the sauce. Toss well, then sprinkle over it a cup or so of grated cheese, and toss again. Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more cheese at the table.

Crocus flowers after the saffron stigmas have been plucked by hand THE R RARE S SAFFRON OF A ABRUZZO:ZAFFERANO D'AQUILAWhat made my visit to the saffron-producing region of Abruzzo particularly exciting was learning that the threads gathered there are considered one of the finest saffron varieties in the world. Grown only in a handful of highland fields in and around Navelli, the zafferano d'Aquila zafferano d'Aquila (saffron from Aquila) is prized for its intense fragrance, flavor, and color. (saffron from Aquila) is prized for its intense fragrance, flavor, and color.

As I learned from Silvio Sarra, the wonderful man who welcomed me to the harvest, the high quality of zafferano d'Aquila zafferano d'Aquila was recognized as early as the thirteenth century, when the saffron crocus was introduced to Navelli. Soon traded all over Europe, the spice became a mainstay of the region's economy, and for seven centuries, hundreds of acres of crocuses were cultivated in Aquila Province. During the twentieth century, though, changing world markets nearly wiped out Navelli's saffron industry, with its labor-intensive methods and high costs. was recognized as early as the thirteenth century, when the saffron crocus was introduced to Navelli. Soon traded all over Europe, the spice became a mainstay of the region's economy, and for seven centuries, hundreds of acres of crocuses were cultivated in Aquila Province. During the twentieth century, though, changing world markets nearly wiped out Navelli's saffron industry, with its labor-intensive methods and high costs.

However, there were some who did not want the crocus fields and the saffron of Aquila to disappear. Silvio Sarra himself, along with other local farmers determined to save their agricultural traditions, continued to grow and harvest saffron. Together they established a consortium to preserve the uniqueness of zafferano d'Aquila zafferano d'Aquila, ultimately earning a DOP designation, which protects the crop's cultivation zone, methods, and standards. We hope the Consortium for the Protection of Zafferano d'Aquila will allow us to enjoy this precious culinary commodity for generations to come.

I am happy to tell you that genuine Aquila saffron is now imported and sold here. Because of its scarcity, though, you can expect it to be considerably more expensive than other saffrons. Lower-priced good-quality saffron will certainly work fine in my recipes, but now that you know about zafferano d'Aquila zafferano d'Aquila, I think that you will find it well worth its price. Just a few fragrant threads will impart great flavor to your dishes, and they'll connect you to the beautiful plains of Navelli, where they were grown.

A SAFFRON S SECRETI learned this little trick about enhancing the aroma of saffron from the elders in Navelli who cook with the saffron that they produce. Carefully drop the saffron strands (as much as the recipe calls for) into a metal spoon. Hold the spoon over a low open flame for just a few seconds, toasting the threads very gently-the perfume will tell you it's working! Before they overheat, spill the threads out of the spoon into a bowl for steeping or grinding, as called for in the recipe.

Gina and Silvio Sarra and neighbor picking saffron threads SAFFRON-INFUSED O OLIVE OIL.

Infusione di Zafferano, Prezzemolo, ed Olio d'Oliva Makes about cup, enough for a pound of Makes about cup, enough for a pound of Maccheroni alla Chitarra Maccheroni alla Chitarra or other pasta or other pasta Just a small amount of saffron can imbue extra-virgin olive oil with the spice's captivating perfume and distinctive flavor. This versatile condiment is a great way to bring a light and seductive touch of saffron to your dishes, without overwhelming them. It makes a delicious (and colorful) dressing for maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra or other pasta, or to season almost any mild-flavored dish. or other pasta, or to season almost any mild-flavored dish.

- 1 teaspoon loosely packed toasted saffron saffron threads threads - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - TO DRESS THE PASTA - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A mortar and pestle or spice grinder; a minifood processor Put the toasted saffron threads into the mortar or spice grinder, and pulverize to a powder.

Pour the olive oil and the salt into a small mixing bowl. Add the crushed saffron. Rinse the mortar with a tablespoon of hot water, collecting any remaining bits of ground saffron, and pour that into the saffron oil. Whisk to mix thoroughly.

If you are not using the saffron oil right away, transfer the oil to a small container and let it infuse at room temperature for at least hour. Shortly before using, whisk chopped parsley into the oil. (To store the oil-preferably before adding parsley-cover the container and refrigerate for up to a week.) To dress maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra (or other pasta) with the saffron oil: Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted water until (or other pasta) with the saffron oil: Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted water until al dente. al dente. Drain the cooked Drain the cooked maccheroni maccheroni, and drop the strands into a big warm bowl, drizzle the oil all over the top, and toss well (and quickly) to coat all the strands of pasta with golden oil. Sprinkle over it a cup or so of grated cheese, and toss again. Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more cheese at the table.

OLIO S SANTO, a HEAVENLY S SPICY O OLIVE O OIL C CONDIMENT One reason I feel such an affinity for the cooking of Abruzzo is the generous use of peperoncino-hot red chili pepper, fresh or dried. Lavish spiciness is typical of southern Italian cuisines, and although I am from the north, I love it, and it makes me feel right at home.The Abruzzesi refer to their favorite red chilis as diavolicchio, diavolillo diavolicchio, diavolillo, or diavolino diavolino-all of which mean "little devil"-and when you taste them you'll know why. Often, these devilish peperoncini are steeped in olive oil, creating a spicy-hot condiment called olio santo olio santo or "holy oil." If you love heat, a drizzle of this oil makes a good dish more heavenly. or "holy oil." If you love heat, a drizzle of this oil makes a good dish more heavenly.Olio santo is an indispensable condiment in Abruzzo, set on the table so that everyone can regulate the level of heat in a dish to his or her own taste. Whether it's a soup, a pasta, or a main dish, if you want more heat, all you need to do is sprinkle over it a teaspoon of holy oil, give it a stir, and get immediate results. is an indispensable condiment in Abruzzo, set on the table so that everyone can regulate the level of heat in a dish to his or her own taste. Whether it's a soup, a pasta, or a main dish, if you want more heat, all you need to do is sprinkle over it a teaspoon of holy oil, give it a stir, and get immediate results.To make your own olio santo olio santo, pour a cup of good extra-virgin olive oil into a gla.s.s jar, and drop in a teaspoon of kosher salt and 2 tablespoons of small whole dried peperoncini, about ten little peppers. Cover tightly, and let the oil infuse at room temperature for at least 2 days. Give it a good shake, and use. Store in the sealed jar, in a cool place, for a month or more.(If you are a peperoncino-lover, too, be sure to try the heavenly pasta from Basilicata, Fiery Maccheroni Maccheroni. Its peperoncino-paste dressing is also a hot all-purpose condiment.) MACCHERONI WITH F FRESH L LEMON & C & CREAM.

Maccheroni all'Agro Serves 6 as a first course or 4 as a main course Serves 6 as a first course or 4 as a main course Agro means "sour," and in this refreshing and fast pasta sauce, there's plenty of lively acidity: white wine, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and grated lemon zest. These are nicely balanced with b.u.t.ter and cream, and all the cooking takes barely 5 minutes-less than the time you need to cook your means "sour," and in this refreshing and fast pasta sauce, there's plenty of lively acidity: white wine, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and grated lemon zest. These are nicely balanced with b.u.t.ter and cream, and all the cooking takes barely 5 minutes-less than the time you need to cook your maccheroni alla chitarra. maccheroni alla chitarra. Be sure that Be sure that all all your ingredients are ready-and the pasta water is at the boil-when you start cooking the sauce. Best with your ingredients are ready-and the pasta water is at the boil-when you start cooking the sauce. Best with maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra, this dressing is also delicious with fresh tagliatelle or dry spaghetti or linguine.

- 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - Finely grated zest of 2 lemons lemons (about 4 teaspoons) (about 4 teaspoons) - 1 cup dry white wine dry white wine - Juice of 2 lemons lemons, freshly squeezed (about cup) - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 1 cup heavy cream heavy cream - FOR COOKING AND FINISHING THE PASTA - 1 batch (1 pound) Homemade Homemade Maccheroni alla Chitarra Maccheroni alla Chitarra or other pasta or other pasta - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing - Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality, for serving RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger To cook the maccheroni: maccheroni: heat a large pot of well-salted water (6 quarts or more) to the boil. heat a large pot of well-salted water (6 quarts or more) to the boil.

Drop the b.u.t.ter into the big skillet, and set it over medium heat. As the b.u.t.ter melts, scatter in the grated lemon zest; stir it around until sizzling. Pour in the white wine and lemon juice, add the salt, stir, and bring the liquids to a bubbling simmer. Cover the skillet, and let cook for a couple of minutes.

Uncover the pan, and slowly pour in the cream, whisking it steadily into the simmering wine and lemon juice. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquids reduce to a saucy consistency you like, 2 or 3 minutes more.

After whisking in the cream, start cooking the pasta. Shake excess flour off the fresh maccheroni maccheroni, and drop it into the boiling water, stirring to separate the strands. Return the water to a rolling boil, and cook the pasta for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, just until al dente. al dente.

With the lemon-and-cream sauce at a simmer, quickly lift out the maccheroni maccheroni and drop it all into the skillet. Toss the pasta until well coated, loosening the sauce with a few spoonfuls of hot pasta-cooking water if needed. and drop it all into the skillet. Toss the pasta until well coated, loosening the sauce with a few spoonfuls of hot pasta-cooking water if needed.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the maccheroni maccheroni, and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

MACCHERONI WITH Z ZUCCHINI.

Maccheroni all'Aquilana Serves 6 as a first course or 4 as a main course Serves 6 as a first course or 4 as a main course In this recipe, careful cooking brings out the wonderful flavor of fresh zucchini to make a lovely dressing for maccheroni maccheroni (or other pasta). Select small, firm zucchini, though-preferably right from the garden!-and if you can, pick, or purchase, zucchini flowers at the same time. They make the dish especially festive. (or other pasta). Select small, firm zucchini, though-preferably right from the garden!-and if you can, pick, or purchase, zucchini flowers at the same time. They make the dish especially festive.

As the name all'Aquilana all'Aquilana suggests, this has distinctive touches of the cooking of Aquila, a city in the high inland province of Abruzzo: you can't miss the fragrant presence of saffron (presumably the splendid suggests, this has distinctive touches of the cooking of Aquila, a city in the high inland province of Abruzzo: you can't miss the fragrant presence of saffron (presumably the splendid zafferano d'Aquila; zafferano d'Aquila;), and the sauce's final enrichment with egg yolks is a typical embellishment in regional kitchens. All together, this is a flavorful and satisfying first or main course. It's thoroughly vegetarian-though you can use poultry stock in place of water for a somewhat richer dish.

- teaspoon toasted saffron saffron threads threads - 4 or 5 small, firm zucchini zucchini (about 1 pounds total, or 1 pound zucchini and 24 fresh zucchini flowers) (about 1 pounds total, or 1 pound zucchini and 24 fresh zucchini flowers) - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 cup chopped onion onion - 3 cups or so hot water water or or light poultry stock light poultry stock - 1 cup finely chopped scallions scallions - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - 2 large egg yolks egg yolks - FOR COOKING AND FINISHING THE PASTA - 1 batch (1 pound) Homemade Homemade Maccheroni alla Chitarra Maccheroni alla Chitarra - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing - Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality, for serving RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Put the toasted saffron threads in a small dish with 2 tablespoons of hot water, and let them steep.

To cook the maccheroni: maccheroni: heat a large pot of well-salted water (6 quarts or more) to the boil. heat a large pot of well-salted water (6 quarts or more) to the boil.

Trim the zucchini, slice them lengthwise into thin strips, then cut the strips into thin 2-inch-long matchsticks. If you have zucchini flowers, trim off any remnants of stem, pull out the inside filaments (the flower's stigmas), and chop the flowers into fine shreds.

Pour the olive oil into the big skillet, turn on medium-high heat, and stir in the chopped onion. Cook the onion for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, until wilting and translucent but not browning. Ladle in cup or so of the hot water or stock, and cook the onion in the bubbling liquid for a few minutes more, to soften.

Before the liquid evaporates, scatter the zucchini matchsticks (and, if using, the shredded zucchini flowers) into the skillet, and stir them in with the onion, then add the chopped scallions and the salt. Cook over high heat, stirring, as the zucchini releases more juices. Let boil and reduce for a couple of minutes-again, don't let the pan get dry-then ladle in another 2 cups hot water, stir well, and mix in the saffron threads and saffron-infused water, and the chopped parsley. Bring the sauce to a boil, let it reduce for a couple of minutes to tossing consistency, then lower the heat to keep it barely simmering while you cook the maccheroni alla chitarra. maccheroni alla chitarra.

For cooking and finishing the pasta: With the pasta water at a rolling boil, shake excess flour off the fresh maccheroni maccheroni, and drop the strands into the pot, stirring and separating them. Return the water to a full boil, and cook the pasta for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, just until al dente. al dente.

Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks in a mixing bowl with a small wire whisk, and gradually whisk in the last cup of hot water, to thin and temper the yolks.

When the pasta is cooked, lift out the maccheroni maccheroni, drain briefly, and drop them into the skillet. With tongs, quickly toss the pasta in the simmering zucchini until the sauce is well distributed among the maccheroni maccheroni strands. strands.

Turn off the heat, and immediately pour the tempered egg yolks in a thin stream all over the maccheroni. maccheroni. Keep tossing and tumbling the pasta, to amalgamate the yolks in the sauce and cook them in the residual heat. Keep tossing and tumbling the pasta, to amalgamate the yolks in the sauce and cook them in the residual heat.

Next, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the maccheroni maccheroni, toss well, then finish with a drizzle of olive oil. Toss and heap the pasta in warm bowls, and serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

MACCHERONI WITH M MEAT S SAUCE.

Maccheroni alla Frentana Makes about 6 cups, enough for 2 pounds of Makes about 6 cups, enough for 2 pounds of maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra or other pasta or other pasta I love ground-meat sauces that cook slowly for hours, allowing an exchange of flavors between the meat, cooking liquids, and seasonings and concentrating them into a dense, delicious dressing. Emilia-Romagna is famous for such sauces, the cla.s.sic Ragu alla Bolognese Ragu alla Bolognese and and Ragu di Carni Bianche Ragu di Carni Bianche among them. This Abruzzese sauce is quite similar in its procedures, though it uses only pork rather than a mixture of ground meats. It also has some of the typical flavoring touches of the region, notably a generous dash of peperoncino and a greater volume of tomatoes, rendering it a bit more acidic and definitely more lively than a conventional, mellow Bolognese. It's a great dressing for homemade among them. This Abruzzese sauce is quite similar in its procedures, though it uses only pork rather than a mixture of ground meats. It also has some of the typical flavoring touches of the region, notably a generous dash of peperoncino and a greater volume of tomatoes, rendering it a bit more acidic and definitely more lively than a conventional, mellow Bolognese. It's a great dressing for homemade maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra, and wonderful with other pastas, too.

At home, whenever I'm preparing a dish like this that takes a long time-and yields such delicious results-I make more of it than I need for one occasion. Another great, effortless meal is a good reward for the hours and effort devoted to cooking the sauce. That's why I have formulated this recipe to yield enough ragu ragu to dress a pound of to dress a pound of maccheroni maccheroni or other pasta on the day it is cooked, with an equal amount to pack away in the freezer. or other pasta on the day it is cooked, with an equal amount to pack away in the freezer.

- FOR THE SAUCE - 1 cup onion onion cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 cup carrot carrot cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 cup celery celery cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 2 pounds ground pork b.u.t.t pork b.u.t.t, freshly ground preferred - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 1 teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 2 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 1 cup dry white wine dry white wine - 3 cups (one 28-ounce can) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 4 cups hot chicken, turkey, or vegetable stock chicken, turkey, or vegetable stock or hot or hot water water, plus more if needed - 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil fresh basil (about 12 large leaves) (about 12 large leaves) - FOR COOKING AND FINISHING THE PASTA - 1 batch (1 pound) Homemade Homemade Maccheroni alla Chitarra Maccheroni alla Chitarra or other pasta or other pasta - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing - Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality, for serving RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy saucepan, such as enameled cast iron, 10-inch diameter or wider, 4-quart capacity, with a cover, for cooking the meat sauce; a large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or wider, for dressing the pasta For the sauce: Drop the chunks of onion, carrot, and celery into the food processor, and mince finely to an even-textured pestata. pestata. Dump the ground pork into a large bowl and break up any lumps. Dump the ground pork into a large bowl and break up any lumps.

Pour the olive oil into the big saucepan, and set over medium-high heat. Sc.r.a.pe in the pestata pestata, stir in 1 teaspoon of the salt, and spread it around the pan. Cook, stirring occasionally, as the vegetables wilt and dry, until they just begin to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes. Drop the peperoncino into a hot spot on the pan bottom for a few moments, then stir it into the pestata. pestata.

Lower the heat to medium, drop in the bay leaves, then scatter the ground pork into the pan, again breaking up any clumps of meat with your fingers. Sprinkle the remaining teaspoon salt over it, and stir everything together. Keep tossing the meat and breaking up any clumps until it starts sizzling and releasing its juices. Raise the heat a bit, and cook until all the meat juices have evaporated-about 15 minutes-stirring frequently.

When the meat is dry and lightly caramelized, pour in the white wine, stir well, raise the heat a bit more, and simmer until the wine has evaporated completely, about 2 or 3 minutes. Pour in the crushed tomatoes, and stir with the meat. Slosh the tomato containers with 2 cups of hot stock or water (to get all the good juices), and stir this into the sauce along with the chopped basil. Set the cover on the pot, and bring the sauce to a simmer, then set the cover slightly ajar, and adjust the heat to keep it bubbling gently.

Simmer the sauce for about an hour, letting it reduce slowly, then stir in another cup or so of hot stock, so the meat is just covered by liquid. Let the sauce cook and reduce for another hour, then stir in the fourth cup of stock, or more if needed, and simmer for another hour-3 hours total. If the sauce is thin, uncover the pot and cook over higher heat, stirring, to reduce and concentrate to a consistency you like. Adjust the seasoning, stirring in more salt to taste. You can use some or all of the sauce right away, or let it cool, then refrigerate or freeze any amount. Cooled or chilled sauce will have thickened; reheat it slowly, stirring in more stock or water to loosen it.

For cooking and finishing the pasta: Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil. To dress the whole 1-pound batch of maccheroni maccheroni, put 3 cups or so of the meat sauce into the wide skillet; loosen with stock or water if necessary, and heat to a simmer.

Shake excess flour off the fresh maccheroni maccheroni, and drop the strands into the boiling water, stirring and separating the strands. Return the water to a rolling boil, and cook the pasta for about 4 minutes, until barely al dente. al dente.

Quickly lift out the maccheroni maccheroni and drop them into the skillet. Continuously toss the pasta in the simmering sauce until all the strands are coated and perfectly and drop them into the skillet. Continuously toss the pasta in the simmering sauce until all the strands are coated and perfectly al dente. al dente. Adjust the consistency of the sauce if necessary: thin it with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly by cooking down over higher heat. Adjust the consistency of the sauce if necessary: thin it with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly by cooking down over higher heat.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the maccheroni maccheroni, and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

GRIND Y YOUR O OWN M MEAT f fOR A B BETTER R RAGu Grabbing a package of ground meat from the supermarket case is a convenience that all of us are accustomed to. For this pork ragu ragu and other recipes with ground meat, however, I always prefer to grind my own meat or ask the butcher (if there is one) to grind a selected piece of meat (or whole pieces of different kinds of meat for a blend). and other recipes with ground meat, however, I always prefer to grind my own meat or ask the butcher (if there is one) to grind a selected piece of meat (or whole pieces of different kinds of meat for a blend).I recommend this practice for several reasons. First, buying whole meat allows you to determine its freshness and quality, an impossibility when it has been ground and sealed in plastic. Second, because illness-causing contamination spreads easily in ground meat-especially in bulk commercial processing-you can minimize the health risks by grinding a small, selected batch yourself (or having it done while you watch). Further, you can choose meat cuts that have the percentage of fat you want in your dish and grind them to the ideal texture, a great advantage since most supermarket meat is ground to the same mushy fineness.Grinding meat in your kitchen is easy, whether you use a stand-alone grinder (electric or hand-cranked) or a meat-grinding attachment for a heavy-duty electric mixer, which is what I use. All of these are widely sold and reasonably priced. Be sure you get several disks (or dies), with various sizes of holes, for coa.r.s.e and fine grinds.Here's what to do for a great pork ragu: ragu: Start with a 2-pound chunk of boneless pork b.u.t.t (actually cut from the shoulder), which has fine flavor and suitable fat content. I Start with a 2-pound chunk of boneless pork b.u.t.t (actually cut from the shoulder), which has fine flavor and suitable fat content. I always always look for certified, organically raised meat, too. Cut the meat into chunks, and grind it once through a coa.r.s.e die, then grind a second time either through a finer die or through the coa.r.s.e die again. That is what I do-two coa.r.s.e grindings-for a look for certified, organically raised meat, too. Cut the meat into chunks, and grind it once through a coa.r.s.e die, then grind a second time either through a finer die or through the coa.r.s.e die again. That is what I do-two coa.r.s.e grindings-for a ragu ragu with the chunky, meaty texture I love. with the chunky, meaty texture I love.

FARRO P PASTA WITH A ARUGULA & R & RICOTTA.

Pasta di Farro con Rucola e Ricotta Serves 6 Serves 6 This wonderful country-style pasta dish requires almost no cooking, but fresh, flavorful ingredients are essential. Most important is to find fresh whole-milk ricotta (not the processed, packaged variety), often sold in good Italian markets and whole-food stores. If you can find artisan-made sheep's- or goat's-milk ricotta, that would be best of all.

Another key ingredient is dry pasta made from farro, a kind of wheat berry usually cooked as a whole grain (try my Farro with Roasted Pepper Sauce). Farro pasta is quite popular in Abruzzo and is manufactured there, in many shapes, by both small artisa.n.a.l pastifici pastifici (pasta factories) and the big pasta companies. Look for it in your market, or order it online either ziti or spaghetti would be my choice for this dish. It is delicious, nutritious, and moderately priced. (pasta factories) and the big pasta companies. Look for it in your market, or order it online either ziti or spaghetti would be my choice for this dish. It is delicious, nutritious, and moderately priced.

You'll also need tender rucola rucola (arugula), good grated pecorino, and excellent extra-virgin olive oil. Once you have all your ingredients, the preparation is fast and easy. (arugula), good grated pecorino, and excellent extra-virgin olive oil. Once you have all your ingredients, the preparation is fast and easy.

- Kosher salt for the pasta pot for the pasta pot - 4 ounces tender, small arugula arugula leaves, stems trimmed (about 1 cups tightly packed) leaves, stems trimmed (about 1 cups tightly packed) - 1 pound farro ziti, spaghetti, or other farro pasta farro ziti, spaghetti, or other farro pasta - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 cups whole-milk ricotta whole-milk ricotta, preferably fresh - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup freshly grated pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger To cook the pasta: bring a large pot of well-salted water (6 quarts or more) to the boil.

Meanwhile, rinse the arugula leaves well, then drain and dry them in a salad spinner or with paper towels. Slice or chop the leaves into rough strips, about inch wide.

When the water is at a rolling boil, drop in the farro pasta, stir, and separate the strands. Return to the boil, and cook the pasta until al dente al dente, stirring occasionally.

As the pasta cooks, pour 4 tablespoons of the olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over low heat. Spoon in the ricotta, and break up the curds with a wooden spoon, spreading and gently warming the cheese and oil in the pan-don't let them get hot or start cooking. Season with 1 teaspoon salt.

When the pasta is al dente al dente, lift it from the pot, drain for a moment, and drop it into the skillet. Still over low heat, toss the pasta for a minute or more, until the strands are evenly coated with ricotta-incorporate spoonfuls of hot pasta water if the ricotta is stiff and not flowing.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle the grated cheese and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil on the pasta, and toss well again. Finally, scatter the shreds of arugula on top, and tumble into the pasta for a few moments, so the greens barely wilt. Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more grated cheese at the table.

RICOTTA WITH R REAL F FLAVORRicotta is produced from whey, the liquid left after milk has been curdled to make cheese. In America, ricotta is usually made from the whey of cow's milk, most of it manufactured into the bland, moist product you find in the dairy case. Fresh whole-milk ricotta is drier and tastier. Containing no preservatives, it is usually hand-packed into containers to be sold within a day or two. Such fresh ricotta can be quite good-it is what I use at home-but it still can't match the flavor of fresh ricotta in Italy, where more strongly flavored whey from sheep's milk, water buffalo's milk, or goat's milk is the foundation. In the hands of a master cheesemaker like my friend Gregorio Rotolo, near Scanno in Abruzzo, ricotta can become a true delicacy.The good news for us is that a new generation of artisan cheesemakers in America are producing fine sheep's- and goat's-milk ricottas. Look for them at farmers' markets and specialty shops. Or, for a treat from the Old World, you can order fresh sheep's-milk ricotta flown in from Italy, delivered to your door (see Sources, for these products).

PACCHERI WITH S SEAFOOD.

Pasta con il Pescato dei Trabocchi Serves 6 Serves 6 On my recent visits to Abruzzo, I have been impressed as never before by the region's Adriatic coast, with its picturesque trabocchi trabocchi, the little fishing shacks that hover over the water at the end of long wooden piers, and by the fresh coastal cuisine we enjoyed, meal after meal.

Here's a recipe inspired by the delightful lunches of that visit, which we sometimes ate in view of the trabocchi trabocchi, where the smoke rising from the ends of the piers told me the fishermen were cooking lunch, too. It is just the kind of fresh-from-the-sea dish they make, lots of sh.e.l.lfish quickly cooked in garlicky tomato sauce, then tossed with a pasta that traps the nuggets of fish and sauce in its hollows. My choice are the fat tubes called paccheri paccheri, a sort of giant rigatoni. In my opinion, there is no greater gustatory experience than the marvelous squirting that fills your mouth when you bite into paccheri paccheri full of sauce and juicy seafood. full of sauce and juicy seafood.

This pasta di trabocchi pasta di trabocchi also has the distinctly Abruzzese touch of saffron (picked in the high plains of Navelli) to add complexity and depth to the sauce. And for me, saffron has a magical effect on the palate, creating the illusion of distant, mystic places. It's a fitting flavor in a dish of the sea, and a symbol for those that travel the sea, the mariners of the Abruzzo coast. also has the distinctly Abruzzese touch of saffron (picked in the high plains of Navelli) to add complexity and depth to the sauce. And for me, saffron has a magical effect on the palate, creating the illusion of distant, mystic places. It's a fitting flavor in a dish of the sea, and a symbol for those that travel the sea, the mariners of the Abruzzo coast.

- teaspoon toasted saffron saffron threads threads - pound sea scallops sea scallops (preferably "dry," not soaked in preservative) (preferably "dry," not soaked in preservative) - pound medium-sized raw shrimp shrimp (about 30 shrimp) (about 30 shrimp) - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - teaspoon (or more!) peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 3 cups (one 28-ounce can) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 pound littleneck clams littleneck clams, scrubbed, rinsed, and drained - 1 pound mussels mussels, scrubbed, rinsed, and drained - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - FOR COOKING AND FINISHING THE PASTA - 1 pound paccheri paccheri, large rigatoni, or other short dry pasta with lots of hollows - Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality, for serving RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed, high-sided skillet or saute pan, preferably 14 inches wide, with a cover; a big pot for cooking the pasta Put the toasted saffron threads in a small cup with 2 tablespoons of hot water, and let them steep.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, at least 6 quarts with 1 tablespoon of salt, for the pasta.

Prepare the seafood: Cut the sea scallops in quarters. Remove the sh.e.l.ls from the shrimp (leaving the tails if you like), and the small digestive vein along the back, then rinse and pat them dry.

Pour 3 tablespoons of the olive oil into the big skillet, toss in the crushed garlic and peperoncino, and cook over medium-high heat until the garlic is fragrant and lightly colored. Scatter the cut scallops in the pan so the pieces are all separated, let them sizzle and sear for a minute, then stir and turn them over. Cook another minute or so, only until the flesh is opaque, and remove with a slotted spoon.

Immediately pour in the crushed tomatoes (and cup water sloshed in the tomato container to rinse). Raise the heat to high, stir in the salt, and bring the tomato sauce to a boil. Adjust the heat to keep it bubbling steadily (but not spattering) for 8 minutes, to develop flavor and reduce slightly.

For cooking and finishing the pasta: Meanwhile, start cooking your pasta at approximately the same time the tomato sauce starts to bubble-from that moment, the sauce will take about 12 minutes to finish, and paccheri paccheri (or other pasta) may need a few minutes more or less. As a guideline for coordinating your cooking, plan to boil any pasta for 2 minutes (or other pasta) may need a few minutes more or less. As a guideline for coordinating your cooking, plan to boil any pasta for 2 minutes less less than the package suggests. than the package suggests.

When the tomato sauce has bubbled for 8 minutes, drop in the scallops, clams, mussels, and the saffron and soaking water; stir quickly to distribute the sh.e.l.lfish in the sauce, and cover the pan. Raise the heat to high, and cook, shaking the covered pan vigorously (and holding the cover on) every minute or so.

Cook 2 minutes, or just until the sh.e.l.ls have opened. Toss the shrimp into the pan, and stir them into the sauce. Let it come back to a boil, then turn down the heat so the sauce is barely simmering. (If the pasta has to cook much longer, turn off the heat and cover the pan, so you don't overcook the sh.e.l.lfish.) As soon as the paccheri paccheri are cooked are cooked al dente al dente, scoop them from the pot with a spider, drain briefly, and drop them into the pan of barely simmering sauce. Toss and tumble the pasta, sh.e.l.lfish, and sauce over and over, coating and filling the paccheri paccheri hollows. Drizzle another couple of tablespoons of olive oil all over the dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and immediately serve up portions in warm bowls. hollows. Drizzle another couple of tablespoons of olive oil all over the dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and immediately serve up portions in warm bowls.

LAMB C CHOPS WITH O OLIVES.

Agnello alle Olive Serves 6 Serves 6 This is a lovely, careful way to prepare thick lamb chops-quite different from the usual fast grilling approach-and it makes them extraordinarily flavorful and tender. The chops brown gradually in a heavy skillet over relatively low heat, steadily building the flavors of caramelization, and then cook covered with a small amount of liquid and seasoning elements.