Let's Ride_ Sonny Barger's Guide to Motorcycling Part 8

CHANGING OIL.

ENGINE OIL TECHNOLOGY HAS developed at almost the same breakneck pace as motorcycle technology, and the oils we have today are much better than the oils we had available even thirty years ago. All the major brands are very good, though you need to make sure that you use the oil weight specified by your bike's manufacturer. But as good as modern oil has become, you'll still need to change it on a regular basis. I prefer to err on the side of caution and change oil every twenty-five hundred miles, even though I use high-quality oil. developed at almost the same breakneck pace as motorcycle technology, and the oils we have today are much better than the oils we had available even thirty years ago. All the major brands are very good, though you need to make sure that you use the oil weight specified by your bike's manufacturer. But as good as modern oil has become, you'll still need to change it on a regular basis. I prefer to err on the side of caution and change oil every twenty-five hundred miles, even though I use high-quality oil.

The following is a general outline of what's involved in changing engine oil. I'm not going to go into the preparation needed to ready your bike for an oil change, like removing bodywork, because the process will vary from bike to bike so there's no way to cover it here. On some bikes you might not even have to remove bodywork. I know a guy with a sport bike who removes just one bolt from his inner fairing and that lets him pull the fairing out far enough so that he can get the oil to drain straight down into his oil pan. You'll have to figure out how to get access to your own drain plug and oil filter. After that, you'll use the following procedure: 1. Wear good latex gloves. This isn't just to keep your hands pretty. We know for a fact that oil is a carcinogen, and you don't want it to touch your skin. This isn't just to keep your hands pretty. We know for a fact that oil is a carcinogen, and you don't want it to touch your skin.

2. Run the engine for a short time to warm up the oil. This makes changing oil a potentially painful experience, but you'll need the oil to be warm to flow freely out of the engine. Note that this will make your exhaust pipes extremely hot, so be careful not to touch them when you're working on your bike. This makes changing oil a potentially painful experience, but you'll need the oil to be warm to flow freely out of the engine. Note that this will make your exhaust pipes extremely hot, so be careful not to touch them when you're working on your bike.

3. Locate the drain plug. The drain plug will be somewhere on the sump at the bottom of your motorcycle engine, or else on the bottom edge of one side. Once you've located it, place your catch pan under the plug. (If you have a dry sump with an external oil tank, like the one on a Harley Sportster, you'll have to drain the oil tank instead of the sump.) The drain plug will be somewhere on the sump at the bottom of your motorcycle engine, or else on the bottom edge of one side. Once you've located it, place your catch pan under the plug. (If you have a dry sump with an external oil tank, like the one on a Harley Sportster, you'll have to drain the oil tank instead of the sump.) 4. Remove the plug. This is usually a large, hex-head bolt. Let the oil drain completely into the catch pan. Be careful when you remove the plug because the hot oil will pour out over your fingers. You'll need to pull the plug away from the hole quickly once you've unscrewed it or you could burn your fingers. Be especially careful not to drop the plug into the catch pan or you'll have to fish it out of a pan of hot, dirty oil. This is usually a large, hex-head bolt. Let the oil drain completely into the catch pan. Be careful when you remove the plug because the hot oil will pour out over your fingers. You'll need to pull the plug away from the hole quickly once you've unscrewed it or you could burn your fingers. Be especially careful not to drop the plug into the catch pan or you'll have to fish it out of a pan of hot, dirty oil.

5. Clean and replace the drain plug once the oil has finished draining from the engine. Most drain plugs have magnetic tips that collect metal shavings from inside the engine. Clean all of this material off before replacing the plug. Some drain plugs have metal washers to enhance the plug's seal. If your bike is so equipped, make certain you don't lose this washer when removing the plug. Also make certain the area around the hole is clean and doesn't have any dirt or debris that could get inside your engine or prevent the drain plug from forming a seal against the oil pan. Most drain plugs have magnetic tips that collect metal shavings from inside the engine. Clean all of this material off before replacing the plug. Some drain plugs have metal washers to enhance the plug's seal. If your bike is so equipped, make certain you don't lose this washer when removing the plug. Also make certain the area around the hole is clean and doesn't have any dirt or debris that could get inside your engine or prevent the drain plug from forming a seal against the oil pan.

6. Place the catch pan under the oil filter and remove it. You'll want to change the filter every time you change oil, so consider that a normal part of changing oil. Older bikes use canister-type filters, which are elements that go inside a canister that's permanently attached to the engine, but most modern motorcycles use automotive-type spin-on filters. You'll want to change the filter every time you change oil, so consider that a normal part of changing oil. Older bikes use canister-type filters, which are elements that go inside a canister that's permanently attached to the engine, but most modern motorcycles use automotive-type spin-on filters.

Again, watch out for hot oil spraying down on your hand. The old filter will be filled with engine oil-dump this in the catch pan and properly dispose of the filter.

7. Attach the new filter. Smear clean engine oil from the bottles you're using to refill the engine sump onto the rubber seal attached to the top of the new filter, then screw it back on the engine. Only use your hands to tighten the filter-don't use the filter wrench or you'll get the filter so tight you may never be able to remove it again. Smear clean engine oil from the bottles you're using to refill the engine sump onto the rubber seal attached to the top of the new filter, then screw it back on the engine. Only use your hands to tighten the filter-don't use the filter wrench or you'll get the filter so tight you may never be able to remove it again.

8. Refill the oil. As mentioned earlier, different bikes use different methods for measuring the oil level. Make sure that you fill the oil tank to the top of the level using the measuring method specified for your bike. Once you've got it to the full mark, restart the engine to pump oil into the filter. As mentioned earlier, different bikes use different methods for measuring the oil level. Make sure that you fill the oil tank to the top of the level using the measuring method specified for your bike. Once you've got it to the full mark, restart the engine to pump oil into the filter.

Be careful when you are doing this. When you first start the engine, your oil system won't be pressurized for the first couple seconds, so if you rev the engine, you could do permanent damage. Let the engine idle for a minute or two, then shut it down and recheck the oil. The oil level will have gone down by the amount that has been pumped into the filter. Refill the oil to the full mark.

After you've changed your oil, keep an eye on the oil level and check for leaks around the drain plug and the filter the next few times you ride the bike, just in case something has gone wrong.

MAINTAINING YOUR CHAIN.

I THINK I'VE MADE THINK I'VE MADE my feelings about chain drives clear throughout the book, but if your budget only allows you to buy a midpriced motorcycle, most likely you'll have to settle for a chain-driven bike. That means you'll have to deal with the ha.s.sle of maintaining a chain. And you'll have to do this yourself because if you take it in to a shop to have the chain tightened, well, your bike will be in the shop all the time. my feelings about chain drives clear throughout the book, but if your budget only allows you to buy a midpriced motorcycle, most likely you'll have to settle for a chain-driven bike. That means you'll have to deal with the ha.s.sle of maintaining a chain. And you'll have to do this yourself because if you take it in to a shop to have the chain tightened, well, your bike will be in the shop all the time.

Replacing chains and sprockets, on the other hand, is a huge job, one that you probably will want to leave to a trained mechanic unless you're fairly skilled. The ch.o.r.es you'll handle yourself will be cleaning, lubricating, and tightening the tension of your chain.

Chains are expensive so you'll want to make them last as long as possible. This means you'll want to keep them clean and well lubricated. Most modern chains have internal lubrication permanently sealed in place with rubber O-rings. This makes the chains last longer, but it also means that you have to be careful what kind of products you use on them, since some chemicals will degrade the O-rings. This means you should not use WD-40. WD-40 is an excellent product for its intended use, but it is a penetrating lubricant used to loosen up things like tight bolts. WD-40 will penetrate the O-rings, destroying their seals. To clean the grime off your chain, only use an O-ring compatible cleaner and a soft brush.

Lubricate the chain with one of the many excellent chain lubricants on the market. I've heard good things about both Bel-Ray and PJ1 brands. Lubricating the chain is best done while the motorcycle is up on the center stand or up on a good support stand like a Pit Bull. When you apply the lubricant, aim the spray from the can at the inside of the chain, just ahead of the rear sprocket, while rotating the wheel forward to evenly coat the chain. This will not only lubricate the chain but also the rear sprocket, which is exposed and needs better lubricant coverage than does the front sprocket, which is covered and somewhat protected from dirt and debris. When you've lubricated the entire chain, clean the excess lubricant off the wheel and tire.

Ideally you'll want to check your chain's tension while someone is sitting aboard your bike, holding it up but putting his or her weight on the suspension so that the springs are compressed. It would be best if the person weighed as close as possible to your weight. This will put your suspension at the angle at which it will be when you're riding and will give you the most accurate reading of your chain's tension. I say this because the distance between the front and rear sprockets changes as the angle between the swingarm and the engine changes. This change in distance is extremely slight, but it can be enough to affect the tension of the chain. Checking the tension with the swingarm at the proper angle can help prevent you from overtightening your chain; overtightening is the main killer of chains.

To check the tension, grasp the chain on the underside of the swingarm about halfway between the front and rear sprockets and move the chain up and down. If the chain moves up and down more than about an inch and a half or two inches, it needs to be tightened. Check in several different spots on the chain by rolling the bike ahead and rechecking the tension. If the amount of chain movement varies from place to place, the chain may have a tight spot. If the tight spot is bad enough, you'll have to replace the chain. A tight spot is simply a spot where the chain is stiff and doesn't bend on its roller pins. Note that a "tight spot" is different than having a chain that is too tight.

The chain-tightening procedure varies from bike to bike, but most chain-driven motorcycles will use some form of the following method to adjust chain tension. Place the bike on its center stand or on the portable stand you've purchased and recheck the chain's tension. It will have changed from when you checked it while the suspension was weighted because the distance between the front and rear sprocket will have changed. It will feel looser than it did while the other person was sitting on the bike. If it moved an inch and a half while the suspension was weighted, it might move three inches when the suspension is unweighted.

Take this into account when adjusting the chain so you don't overtighten it. If you gained an inch and a half of chain travel by putting the bike on the stand and then tighten the chain down to an appropriate three-quarters of an inch of travel, your chain will be stretched as tight as a funeral drum when you get back on your bike. This will stretch your chain and drastically decrease its life span. Overtightening to this degree may even cause your chain to break and shoot off the back of your sprocket like a missile.

To prevent this catastrophe, add the amount of chain travel you gained when you put the bike up on the stand to the three-quarters of an inch you need for proper operation. If you gained an inch and a half of travel when you put the bike up on the stand, don't tighten your chain beyond two to two and a quarter inches of travel. This should put you right in the half inch to three-quarters of an inch of travel that you need when you get back on the bike.

Next, loosen the axle nuts. You will have to remove a security pin on most bikes when loosening the axle nuts. Once the axle nuts are removed, you can adjust the chain. You do this by adjusting bolts on the end of the swingarm on either side of the wheel. Usually there will be two hex-head nuts on each bolt-an inner nut to move the axle and an outer nut to lock the inner nut in place when the job is done. Loosen up the outer nut and then carefully adjust the inner nut, moving the nut on one side of the wheel a small amount, then moving the other nut an equal amount. If you don't move the bolts on each side the exact same amount, your back tire will get out of alignment with your front tire. When you've got the tension set to the proper amount, tighten down the outside nuts to lock the inner nuts in place. Retighten the axle bolts and insert a new security pin.

TOURING.

FROM THE FIRST TIME I got on a motorcycle, I had the urge to take off and keep on riding. I still do. I like riding everywhere-to the store, to the gym, wherever-but there's nothing I enjoy as much as. .h.i.tting the open road for a long trip. I hope you'll share my enthusiasm for long-distance riding. I got on a motorcycle, I had the urge to take off and keep on riding. I still do. I like riding everywhere-to the store, to the gym, wherever-but there's nothing I enjoy as much as. .h.i.tting the open road for a long trip. I hope you'll share my enthusiasm for long-distance riding.

You can travel on any bike you own, if it is reliable. Some bikes make better touring rides than others, but ultimately the best bike for a tour is the one sitting in your garage, because that's what you've got available. You might as well make the most of it. If you've followed my advice, you've bought a bike that is comfortable. If that's the case, the only real functional issues you'll have to deal with are luggage capacity and fuel range.

Having a bike with too small a gas tank can be a real hindrance to successful touring. Most bikes available today have at least sufficient fuel capacity to prevent you from being stranded between gas stops, but that wasn't always the case. For many years Harley-Davidson Sportsters had notoriously small gas tanks. This was such a serious problem that you didn't want to head out of town by yourself on a Sportster for fear of running out of gas and being stranded. Today's Sportsters still have small tanks that make them poorly suited for long-distance travel, but at least they're large enough for you to make it to the next gas station without running out of fuel most of the time. (There have been other bikes with such small fuel tanks that they have been all but impossible to use for touring, including Kawasaki's Eliminator of the mid-1980s and Honda's Superhawk of the late 1990s, but most of the bikes on the market today have fuel capacity that is at least adequate.) You can't do much about your bike's fuel capacity without radical modification, but you can alter your bike's luggage capacity without too much trouble. Lots of luggage options are available that will work on almost any motorcycle. The trick is to equip your bike with luggage that stays securely fastened and doesn't rub against your tires or belt or chain.

If you've bought a bike equipped with saddlebags, you're already three-quarters of the way to having all the luggage capacity you'll need. If you have a touring bike, you might even have a top box or trunk on the back. If you like the hard luggage found on a touring bike, you may be able to buy optional hard luggage specifically for your bike, either from the manufacturer or from an aftermarket company like Givi or Corbin. This is the best way to go, but it's also an expensive route and will probably require you to put your motorcycle in a shop for a day or two while the luggage is installed.

If you don't have the money, time, or patience to go this route, you can mount soft luggage. There are three basic pieces of soft luggage: - Saddlebags. These are bags that you put over the rear portion of your seat and ride outboard of the rear wheel, one on each side of the bike. These are usually your primary piece of luggage. These are bags that you put over the rear portion of your seat and ride outboard of the rear wheel, one on each side of the bike. These are usually your primary piece of luggage.

- Tankbags. These are bags that mount on top of your tank. They can hold a lot of items and provide the easiest access for a rider in the saddle. They make great places to store items you frequently need while riding, like cameras, sunscreen, bottled water, and fluid and soft rags for cleaning your face shield. Plus they're handy for storing articles of clothing you might remove as the temperature warms up during the day, like sweatshirts and heavy gloves. These are bags that mount on top of your tank. They can hold a lot of items and provide the easiest access for a rider in the saddle. They make great places to store items you frequently need while riding, like cameras, sunscreen, bottled water, and fluid and soft rags for cleaning your face shield. Plus they're handy for storing articles of clothing you might remove as the temperature warms up during the day, like sweatshirts and heavy gloves.

- Tailpacks. These mount on the pa.s.senger portion of your seat and can greatly increase your luggage capacity, making them invaluable for long trips. The best of these will have built-in bungee cords so you can securely attach them to your bike. These mount on the pa.s.senger portion of your seat and can greatly increase your luggage capacity, making them invaluable for long trips. The best of these will have built-in bungee cords so you can securely attach them to your bike.

Soft removable saddlebags can be made of leather, vinyl, or heavy nylon. Tankbags and tailpacks are almost always made of heavy nylon, though some have hard plastic sh.e.l.ls. Soft luggage has its drawbacks. It's not lockable, like hard luggage, and you have to be careful to mount the pieces securely so they don't move around and rub your tires or fall off. Removable soft luggage also isn't rainproof, meaning that you'll have to pack your stuff in heavy garbage bags before you put it in the luggage, but it has the advantages of being inexpensive and easily removed when you are done traveling.

PACKING FOR A TRIP.

ALMOST EVERY PERSON WHO takes his or her first motorcycle trip makes the same mistake: packing too much gear. You'll overload your luggage with stuff that you won't even unpack until you get back home. Everyone with any touring experience will warn you not to do this, but you'll do it anyway because you'll be worried that you'll need this or that item but won't have it. takes his or her first motorcycle trip makes the same mistake: packing too much gear. You'll overload your luggage with stuff that you won't even unpack until you get back home. Everyone with any touring experience will warn you not to do this, but you'll do it anyway because you'll be worried that you'll need this or that item but won't have it.

Really, you only need a few items for a safe, comfortable trip. Bring the small tool kit I told you about earlier in this chapter, of course. Bring a first-aid kit, too. It doesn't have to be elaborate, but should include the following basic items: - A selection of bandages, including gauze bandages - Adhesive tape - Some sort of antibiotic If you have room to add a few more items, you should try to fit them in. Your first-aid kit isn't the place to save weight.

Apply the less-is-more philosophy in spades when it comes to your clothes. Bring a couple of pairs of jeans, a few T-shirts, a couple of turtleneck sweaters (turtleneck sweaters are great in cold weather because they make a nice seal between your jacket and your helmet). Bring enough underwear and socks to last you the duration of your trip (underwear and socks don't take up much s.p.a.ce). That about covers it. As long as you have clean underwear and socks, you can get by in most situations.

Traveling on a motorcycle is one of the most rewarding activities in which you can ever engage. It is also one of the most grueling. Spending a long day in the saddle takes the p.i.s.s right out of you. You're going to have to prepare your body as much as you prepare your gear and your bike.

I recommend starting an exercise regime before going on a motorcycle trip. This will help build up your stamina and endurance. And get in the habit of eating a healthy diet. This will be hard to keep up when you're out on the road, eating in restaurants every day, but if you make smart choices, you can keep your energy level high. The most important thing is to drink enough water. If you just drink soda or coffee, the caffeine in those drinks depletes your body's water supply. Get in the habit of drinking a bottle of water each time you stop for gas.

PLANNING A TRIP.

WHEN YOU PLAN YOUR first trip, you'll probably spend weeks, or even months poring over maps, plotting your route. Chances are that you will have fun, but the odds are just as good that you'll bite off more than you can chew. Most people underestimate how much time their trips will take, which leads them to rush to make up time. If you fall into this trap, you'll miss seeing a lot of the things you wanted to see in the first place. Plus you'll be anxious and won't be able to relax and enjoy the trip itself. first trip, you'll probably spend weeks, or even months poring over maps, plotting your route. Chances are that you will have fun, but the odds are just as good that you'll bite off more than you can chew. Most people underestimate how much time their trips will take, which leads them to rush to make up time. If you fall into this trap, you'll miss seeing a lot of the things you wanted to see in the first place. Plus you'll be anxious and won't be able to relax and enjoy the trip itself.

The trick for avoiding this pitfall is to be realistic when planning your trip in the first place. If your route will take you across South Dakota or some other state where the interstate speed limit is 75 miles per hour, don't expect to cover seventy-five miles for every hour you're out on your bike, even if you're riding at 80 miles per hour or faster. You need to factor in things like gas stops, rest stops, and getting stuck behind the occasional semi. At best, you'll probably average 60 miles per hour.

As you become more experienced, your average speed will increase, but not by much. If you're riding two-up or riding with a group of bikes, you'll probably average even slower. When you're with a group of bikers, rest stops take longer because more people are using the available bathrooms, gas stops take longer because more tanks need to be filled, and riding itself takes longer because not everyone travels at the same speed. Ultimately you'll only travel as fast as the slowest rider in the group.

Thus if you plan to spend eight hours traveling by yourself on a freeway (which is a long time to be droning down a long, straight interstate highway), don't expect to cover more than four hundred miles that day. And you won't be able to make up time by speeding because those few minutes you might gain by riding faster will be more than lost by the half hour or more that you'll sit alongside the road while the state trooper calls in your license information and writes your expensive speeding ticket.

If you're riding on two-lane highways, you can knock your average speed down to 50 miles per hour because the speed limits will be lower and you'll spend more time being c.o.c.k blocked by traffic. If you get into the mountains where the roads turn twisty and the scenic beauty beckons you to stop and take photos, figure that at best you'll cover thirty to forty miles every hour, and less if you're with a group of other bikers. You could push yourself and not stop to enjoy the scenery, but that defeats the purpose of being there on a motorcycle in the first place. It's better to take your time and enjoy your trip than to turn it into the Bataan Death March.

If you are worried about not covering enough ground, it's better to plan a shorter trip. If you are going to some destination, like to visit a relative in a far-off state, don't try to cram in a lot of sightseeing and side trips. If you have to be somewhere quickly, you won't be able to stop and enjoy the extra places you're visiting anyway. If you don't have to be anywhere at any specific time, plan shorter routes that allow you plenty of time to absorb the places you visit. If you are going to spend five days riding through Colorado and Wyoming, don't plan a trip that will cover more than fifteen hundred miles.

Whatever you do, don't run yourself ragged while you're traveling on a bike. Relax, get plenty of sleep, and eat a healthy diet. Make sure you take time to stop and stretch your legs when you visit someplace or stop to take some photos. You might not think it's possible to fall asleep while riding a bike, but it is, and the potential consequences range from horrible to even worse. Even if you don't fall asleep, the more tired you are, the less alert you are. The less alert you are, the slower your reaction times. The slower your reaction times, the more likely you are to get killed. If you compare the potential costs of pushing yourself while on a trip with any potential benefits, you'll see that there's nothing to be gained by rushing your trip and everything to lose.

CLUBS.

AS MOST OF YOU probably knew before you picked up this book, I'm a member of a motorcycle club. It's the type of club that's often called a "one-percenter" club. As the legend goes, an AMA spokesperson once said that 99 percent of all motorcyclists were good, responsible citizens, and all the trouble was being caused by the 1 percent of outlaws. I have my own ideas about this. I was there for a lot of the so-called trouble, and to me it seemed like there was a disconnection between what was really happening and what the press was reporting. I'd attend an event in which nothing out of the ordinary appeared to happen, and then I'd read a sensationalized account of that same event in the press in which it seemed that all the barbaric tribes of Europe had descended. My take is that most of the trouble referred to by this AMA official, if he even existed, took place in the pages of newspapers and magazines, and not in the flesh-and-blood world. probably knew before you picked up this book, I'm a member of a motorcycle club. It's the type of club that's often called a "one-percenter" club. As the legend goes, an AMA spokesperson once said that 99 percent of all motorcyclists were good, responsible citizens, and all the trouble was being caused by the 1 percent of outlaws. I have my own ideas about this. I was there for a lot of the so-called trouble, and to me it seemed like there was a disconnection between what was really happening and what the press was reporting. I'd attend an event in which nothing out of the ordinary appeared to happen, and then I'd read a sensationalized account of that same event in the press in which it seemed that all the barbaric tribes of Europe had descended. My take is that most of the trouble referred to by this AMA official, if he even existed, took place in the pages of newspapers and magazines, and not in the flesh-and-blood world.

Regardless, the one-percent t.i.tle stuck and actually became a badge of honor for club members. We consider one-percenter clubs elite organizations, where membership isn't open to just anyone. Membership requires extreme dedication. When you become a member of a one-percenter club, the club becomes your life. It becomes your family-your parents, your brothers and sisters, your wife, and your children. When you become a member of a one-percenter club, you have dedicated your life to that club.

As far as I'm concerned, extreme dedication is what separates one-percenter clubs from other types of clubs, but there are certain characteristics that are shared by many (but not all) one-percenter clubs. Most one-percenter club members wear some sort of garment that features the club patch (often called "colors") centered on the back of the garment, where it can be seen while the man (as politically incorrect as this may be, there are no one-percenter clubs that allow women to be members-clubs that allow women are by nature not one-percenter clubs) is riding his motorcycle. That garment is usually a denim vest, or more accurately, a denim jacket with the sleeves cut off, which is why it's often called a "cut," but sometimes the patch is sewn on a leather vest or jacket.

Typically a one-percenter patch consists of three parts: a central image depicting the club's insignia, a rocker patch (a curved bar) on top with the club's name, and another rocker patch below indicating the particular chapter of a club. This type of three-piece patch usually signifies that a club is a one-percenter club, but not always. I'll soon explain that in more detail. Likewise if a patch is a two-piece or one-piece patch, that usually means that the club is not a one-percenter club.

One-percenter clubs are as varied as the individuals who make up their memberships. Some clubs consist of single groups located in a specific geographic area whereas others are composed of chapters spread around the country, or even the globe. Few one-percenter clubs recruit their members. Instead, the clubs attract prospective members by their public behavior and reputation. We don't recruit; we recognize. Riders who aspire to be members approach the club, show their interest, and work to prove they are worthy.

The process a prospect follows usually goes as follows: introduction, hang-around status, sponsorship, prospect phase, and finally either membership or failure. The would-be prospect first reaches the provisional status of a "hang-around." This is when club members have privately voted to make official the hang-around's status of club a.s.sociate.

If and when a club member deems the hang-around worthy of sponsorship as a prospect and is willing to act as the person's mentor, that member meets with the individual and offers to sponsor him. At a club meeting, the member stands up for the potential prospect and asks for a vote authorizing "prospect" status. By doing this the member becomes responsible for the prospect. If a majority of members agree, the prospect is brought into the meeting, told of his new status, and given the bottom rocker "prospect" patch.

The official recognition as "prospect" marks the beginning of the prospect's hard-core testing phase, which may take many months. The prospect is given menial tasks, such as cleaning the clubhouse, helping set up for meetings and events, running errands, and maintaining members' bikes. Occasionally he is also trusted with more significant jobs that require greater skill, creativity, or finesse; these a.s.signments will come directly from the prospect's sponsor, upon whom the quality of the prospect's performance will reflect.

When the sponsoring member deems the time appropriate, he brings the prospect's membership to a vote before the whole club. This milestone event will include an open discussion among the members regarding the prospect's qualities (pro and con). In most clubs, a unanimous vote is required to grant membership. When the vote is taken, if only one member votes against granting membership, that member must explain his reasons in case he knows something the others do not.

If the members do not grant membership at this time, they decide whether to continue the prospect phase or dismiss the prospect entirely. If they do agree to make the prospect a member, they may invite the person into the meeting to congratulate him, or they may keep it a secret so they can surprise the prospect with his full patch at another time.

MOM-AND-POP CLUBS.

DON'T FEEL BAD IF the life of a one-percenter isn't right for you. I have my priorities, and my club is at the top of that list, but because of that I've had to make a lot of sacrifices. I've never been able to have children because my club responsibilities are so demanding that I wouldn't have time to properly raise them. I've even gone to prison. the life of a one-percenter isn't right for you. I have my priorities, and my club is at the top of that list, but because of that I've had to make a lot of sacrifices. I've never been able to have children because my club responsibilities are so demanding that I wouldn't have time to properly raise them. I've even gone to prison.

Like I said, one-percenter clubs are as varied as the individuals who compose them. The clubs are not criminal syndicates. Anytime you have a group of people collected together, the group will include some people who don't always abide by the letter of the law. You'd think that law-enforcement agencies would deal with individual club members on an individual basis, but you'd be wrong. All members of one-percenter clubs are painted with the same brush by law-enforcement agencies.

If you do join a one-percenter club, you'd better be prepared to live your life under a microscope. When you do any business transaction whatsoever, you'll need to make sure you have all your legal bases covered. This is part of the dedication required to be a member, and it's no easy thing.

But if you're interested in this type of club, only at a less-intense level, there are organizations that offer much of the brotherhood and camaraderie of a one-percenter club, and even elements of the one-percenter lifestyle, but that aren't actual one-percenter clubs. I guess you could call them "two-percenter" clubs. We call them "mom-and-pop" clubs. These clubs can be organized around riding motorcycles, like the one-percenter clubs, or they can be organized around something else. For example, there are two-percenter clubs that combine sobriety with motorcycling, clubs that combine religion with motorcycling, and even clubs composed of war veterans and police officers.

These clubs vary in the degree of dedication they require of their members. In general, if clubs use a three-piece patch, they'll require more dedication because usually they'll need to have an understanding with and abide by the rules set by the local one-percenter clubs in order to fly three-piece colors. Be warned: membership in one of the more dedicated mom-and-pop clubs may mean you'll suffer the same prejudice from the law-enforcement community as membership in a one-percenter club, especially at the local level. The FBI might know the difference between a church-based club or a group of Alcoholics Anonymous members and a real one-percenter club, but your local cop probably won't.

CLUBS FOR THE OTHER NINETY-EIGHT PERCENT.

AGAIN, DON'T WORRY IF even these two-percenter clubs don't sound right for you. There are almost as many different types of motorcycle clubs as there are different types of motorcyclists. I highly recommend that you find one that suits your lifestyle and personality. even these two-percenter clubs don't sound right for you. There are almost as many different types of motorcycle clubs as there are different types of motorcyclists. I highly recommend that you find one that suits your lifestyle and personality.

As a motorcyclist, you may often find yourself the odd man (or woman) out as you ride through the world. Although more and more of us are riding every year, we're still a very small minority of motorists. Clubs offer camaraderie and brotherhood. They provide social outlets, places where we can gather with our own kind and talk about our pa.s.sion-motorcycles and riding-without boring nonmotorcyclists. A motorcycle club is a nexus where the motorcycling community can come together.

You can find a club devoted to every different type of riding. There are off-road and trail-riding clubs, there are road-racing and sport-bike clubs, and there are clubs devoted to long-distance touring riders. There are general clubs devoted to all motorcycles and clubs devoted to specific types of motorcycles, like turbocharged bikes. There are clubs devoted to antique motorcycles, and clubs devoted to every brand of motorcycle ever built, from ATK to Zundapp. In addition to clubs devoted to certain makes, there are clubs devoted to just specific models of those brands. Take BMW motorcycles, for example. There are clubs devoted to all BMW motorcycles, clubs devoted to just antique BMWs, clubs devoted to air-cooled BMWs, and clubs devoted to specific BMW models, like the GS series.

There are clubs devoted to riders from a particular area, clubs devoted to riders based on their s.e.xual orientation, and clubs devoted to just one s.e.x. For example, the d.y.k.es on Bikes club is based on both s.e.x and s.e.xual orientation. There are clubs just for riders over a certain age, and there are clubs that no rider of a certain age would join if he or she was in his or her right mind. There are clubs based on every spiritual system known to man, from the Anglican Church to Zoroastrianism. There are clubs for everyone from Baptists to Buddhists. There are professionally oriented motorcycle clubs, such as clubs for cops and for firefighters, and I'm sure there are clubs just for slackers and b.u.ms.

Find out where motorcyclists gather, and ride there to check out the local scene. At the very least you'll meet people who share a powerful common interest with you: motorcycling. To find a club, or at least a loosely organized motorcycling community, all you really have to do is pursue the activity you most enjoy: riding a motorcycle.

WHAT Y YOU N NEED TO K KNOW.

- You need to learn to perform basic maintenance on your own bike, especially if it's chain-driven.

- You need to prepare your body and your bike for the rigors of a long trip.

- Joining a club is a great way to connect with the motorcycle community.

Photograph by Paul Hatton by Thunder Roads Arizona

Appendix Motorcycle Resources MOTORCYCLE SAFETY FOUNDATION.

THROUGHOUT THE BOOK I'VE referred to a variety of organizations, businesses, and other resources that I use and recommend. I'm presenting them here in alphabetical order because they are all more or less equally important, with one exception: the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. That's because the RiderCourse and Experienced RiderCourse that the MSF offers are the most important resources for any motorcyclist. To find a program in your area, check out the MSF at www.msf-usa.org/. referred to a variety of organizations, businesses, and other resources that I use and recommend. I'm presenting them here in alphabetical order because they are all more or less equally important, with one exception: the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. That's because the RiderCourse and Experienced RiderCourse that the MSF offers are the most important resources for any motorcyclist. To find a program in your area, check out the MSF at www.msf-usa.org/.

AEROSTICH.

AEROSTICH MADE ITS NAME by pioneering synthetic riding suits, the kind that are worn by just about every serious Iron-b.u.t.t-type long-distance motorcyclist, but today the company offers everything from riding gear to electronic accessories to camping equipment. When you're talking serious long-distance motorcyclists, Aerostich owner Andy Goldfine is as hard-core as they come, and he personally makes certain that the products he offers to the motorcycling community are the best available. Check out Aerostich at www.aerostich.com/. by pioneering synthetic riding suits, the kind that are worn by just about every serious Iron-b.u.t.t-type long-distance motorcyclist, but today the company offers everything from riding gear to electronic accessories to camping equipment. When you're talking serious long-distance motorcyclists, Aerostich owner Andy Goldfine is as hard-core as they come, and he personally makes certain that the products he offers to the motorcycling community are the best available. Check out Aerostich at www.aerostich.com/.

CORBIN SADDLES.

MIKE CORBIN IS A personal friend of mine, but if I didn't know him from Adam, I'd still use his saddles. I think the fact that just about every serious long-distance rider uses a Corbin saddle whether they know Mike or not means that I'm not alone in this opinion. You can check out Corbin at www.corbin.com/. personal friend of mine, but if I didn't know him from Adam, I'd still use his saddles. I think the fact that just about every serious long-distance rider uses a Corbin saddle whether they know Mike or not means that I'm not alone in this opinion. You can check out Corbin at www.corbin.com/.

THUNDERHEADER.

PROBABLY NO MOTORCYCLE-RELATED TOPIC is more controversial right now than loud exhaust pipes. A lot of riders run straight pipes-that is, pipes with no sound baffling whatsoever-or nearly straight pipes that are too loud for use on public streets. At the same time most new motorcycles have such restrictive exhaust systems that their performance suffers, so most riders end up adding some sort of aftermarket exhaust system. I know I do, and for the last twenty-five years I've only used Thunderheaders. As far as I'm concerned these are the best exhaust systems on the market. You can check out their exhaust systems at www.thunderheader.net/. is more controversial right now than loud exhaust pipes. A lot of riders run straight pipes-that is, pipes with no sound baffling whatsoever-or nearly straight pipes that are too loud for use on public streets. At the same time most new motorcycles have such restrictive exhaust systems that their performance suffers, so most riders end up adding some sort of aftermarket exhaust system. I know I do, and for the last twenty-five years I've only used Thunderheaders. As far as I'm concerned these are the best exhaust systems on the market. You can check out their exhaust systems at www.thunderheader.net/.

ARLEN NESS.

THROUGHOUT THIS BOOK I'VE advocated keeping your bike basically stock, but I was talking about functional changes, like altering the geometry of your motorcycle's frame or overbuilding the engine. I also like to keep my bikes looking businesslike, but that doesn't mean you can't sharpen up your bike's appearance with some decorative accessories. There's no better place to get quality customizing accessories than from my good friend Arlen Ness. He can sell you anything from a customized footpeg to a complete motorcycle. When you buy something from Arlen, you can be sure that it is the best-engineered, highest-quality part on the market. Check out the amazing range of products he offers at www.arlenness.com/. advocated keeping your bike basically stock, but I was talking about functional changes, like altering the geometry of your motorcycle's frame or overbuilding the engine. I also like to keep my bikes looking businesslike, but that doesn't mean you can't sharpen up your bike's appearance with some decorative accessories. There's no better place to get quality customizing accessories than from my good friend Arlen Ness. He can sell you anything from a customized footpeg to a complete motorcycle. When you buy something from Arlen, you can be sure that it is the best-engineered, highest-quality part on the market. Check out the amazing range of products he offers at www.arlenness.com/.

TOTAL CONTROL ADVANCED RIDER CLINIC.

EARLIER IN THE BOOK I suggested getting advanced rider training. Once you've finished the MSF Experienced RiderCourse, a good next step is Lee Parks's Total Control Advanced Rider Clinic. To see schedules and locations, go to www.totalcontroltraining.net/. I suggested getting advanced rider training. Once you've finished the MSF Experienced RiderCourse, a good next step is Lee Parks's Total Control Advanced Rider Clinic. To see schedules and locations, go to www.totalcontroltraining.net/.

KLOCK WERKS KUSTOM CYCLES.

WHEN A MAN BUILDS custom motorcycles and designs motorcycle parts in the middle of South Dakota, about 250 miles away from the edge of nowhere, he'd better be good at what he does, and Brian Klock, founder of Klock Werks Kustom Cycles, definitely meets that criteria. If you're in the market for anything from a well-designed part to a complete custom bike, Klock Werks has what you are looking for. Check them out at www.kustomcycles.com/. custom motorcycles and designs motorcycle parts in the middle of South Dakota, about 250 miles away from the edge of nowhere, he'd better be good at what he does, and Brian Klock, founder of Klock Werks Kustom Cycles, definitely meets that criteria. If you're in the market for anything from a well-designed part to a complete custom bike, Klock Werks has what you are looking for. Check them out at www.kustomcycles.com/.

READING LIST.

IN WRITING THIS BOOK, I've tried my best to sum up the tricks and techniques I've learned over the course of a lifetime of riding, and I think I've done a good job of presenting information you're not going to find anywhere else, but there's still a lot of information that you won't find in these pages. It's a good thing other people have written about this subject, so that much of that information is available elsewhere. All of these books are available on Amazon.com. There are many bits of information in the following books that could very easily save your life, so you owe it to yourself to read them: I've tried my best to sum up the tricks and techniques I've learned over the course of a lifetime of riding, and I think I've done a good job of presenting information you're not going to find anywhere else, but there's still a lot of information that you won't find in these pages. It's a good thing other people have written about this subject, so that much of that information is available elsewhere. All of these books are available on Amazon.com. There are many bits of information in the following books that could very easily save your life, so you owe it to yourself to read them: The Motorcycle Safety Foundation's Guide to Motorcycling Excellence: Skills, Knowledge, and Strategies for Riding Right (2nd ed.) by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (2nd ed.) by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation This is the textbook for the MSF RiderCourse program, and as such, it should be as indispensable a part of your motorcycling experience as the RiderCourse itself.

How to Ride a Motorcycle: Rider's Guide to Strategy, Safety and Skill Development by Pat Hahn by Pat Hahn Maximum Control: Mastering Your Heavyweight Bike by Pat Hahn by Pat Hahn Ride Hard, Ride Smart: Ultimate Street Strategies for Advanced Motorcyclists by Pat Hahn by Pat Hahn No book can really teach you how to ride a bike, but no book better prepares you to learn than Pat Hahn's How to Ride a Motorcycle How to Ride a Motorcycle. This is a good one to read before you take the MSF RiderCourse. Maximum Control Maximum Control focuses on the specific skills needed to master a heavyweight motorcycle, but it has a lot to offer the rider of any motorcycle, large or small. If the MSF RiderCourse is a freshman-level course, think of focuses on the specific skills needed to master a heavyweight motorcycle, but it has a lot to offer the rider of any motorcycle, large or small. If the MSF RiderCourse is a freshman-level course, think of Ride Hard, Ride Smart Ride Hard, Ride Smart as a soph.o.m.ore-level textbook. It takes up where the RiderCourse leaves off, bridging the gap between the MSF material and high-performance riding books like as a soph.o.m.ore-level textbook. It takes up where the RiderCourse leaves off, bridging the gap between the MSF material and high-performance riding books like Total Control Total Control and and Twist of the Wrist. Twist of the Wrist.

Total Control by Lee Parks by Lee Parks Unlike most high-performance riding books, which focus on the needs of a race rider, this one applies the lessons to street riding.

A Twist of the Wrist: The Motorcycle Road Racers Handbook by Keith Code by Keith Code Twist of the Wrist II: The Basics of High-Performance Motorcycle Riding by Keith Code by Keith Code Soft Science of Road Racing Motorcycles: The Technical Procedures and Workbook for Road Racing Motorcycles by Keith Code by Keith Code Keith Code's books were the first modern high-performance riding books, and in many ways they are still among the best. They are primarily focused on the demands of riding on a racetrack, but they still contain a lot of good information for anyone wanting to be a better rider.

About the Authors

RALPH "SONNY" BARGER is the author of is the author of h.e.l.l's Angel: The Life and Times of Sonny Barger and the h.e.l.l's Angels Motorcycle Club h.e.l.l's Angel: The Life and Times of Sonny Barger and the h.e.l.l's Angels Motorcycle Club. A master mechanic who has owned and operated his own bike shops, he currently lives in Arizona, where he rides every day.

DARWIN HOLMSTROM, senior editor at Motorbooks International, has written or cowritten more than a dozen books on motorcycles, including The Harley-Davidson Motor Co. Archive Collection, BMW Motorcycles The Harley-Davidson Motor Co. Archive Collection, BMW Motorcycles, and The Complete Idiot's Guide to Motorcycles The Complete Idiot's Guide to Motorcycles www.sonnybarger.com Visit www.AuthorTracker.com for exclusive information on your favorite HarperCollins author.