Kneadlessly Simple Part 8

These are best eaten right out of the oven, so the refrigerator rise option, which lets you hold the buns for up to two days until ready for them, is particularly convenient. About 2 to 3 hours before baking, allow them to warm up and finish rising on the counter, then pop them into the oven, bake, sample, and swoon!

The following buns are made from a half batch of the Easy White Bread Loaves Easy White Bread Loaves . Use the other half to prepare a loaf of bread as directed in the original recipe. . Use the other half to prepare a loaf of bread as directed in the original recipe.

Yield: 12 large buns batch dough for Easy White Bread Loaves Easy White Bread Loaves, stirred and ready for the second rise cup plus 2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar2/3 cup (3.33 ounces) unbleached white bread flour or all-purpose white flour, plus more as needed1 tablespoon ground cinnamon cup (1 stick) cool, firm unsalted b.u.t.ter, cut into 1/3-inch pieces, plus 1/3 cup more, melted, for m.u.f.fin cups cup dark raisins, rinsed under hot water, thoroughly drained, and patted dry, or cup chopped walnuts, optional18 tablespoons (1 cup plus 2 tablespoons) dark corn syrupSecond Rise Have on hand half a batch of Easy White Bread dough, ready for the second rise. Prepare the sticky bun streusel by briefly processing together the brown sugar, 2/3 cup flour, and cinnamon in a food processor. Add the b.u.t.ter pieces. Pulse the processor on and off until the mixture looks like coa.r.s.e crumbs. (Alternatively, combine the dry ingredients in a bowl and cut in the b.u.t.ter using forks or a pastry blender.) Have on hand half a batch of Easy White Bread dough, ready for the second rise. Prepare the sticky bun streusel by briefly processing together the brown sugar, 2/3 cup flour, and cinnamon in a food processor. Add the b.u.t.ter pieces. Pulse the processor on and off until the mixture looks like coa.r.s.e crumbs. (Alternatively, combine the dry ingredients in a bowl and cut in the b.u.t.ter using forks or a pastry blender.)

Vigorously stir cup of crumb mixture and the raisins or nuts (if using) into the dough until fairly evenly distributed; it's all right if some patches of crumbs remain. Evenly coat 12 jumbo-size m.u.f.fin cups with melted b.u.t.ter. Put 1 teaspoon melted b.u.t.ter, 1 tablespoons corn syrup, then 1 tablespoon of the crumb mixture in each cup. Cut the dough in half with well-oiled kitchen shears, then divide each half equally among 6 cups; dust the dough with a little flour for ease of handling, if desired. Sprinkle the remaining crumb mixture over the dough portions, dividing it equally among them. Press down firmly on each with well-greased fingertips to imbed the crumbs. Drizzle any remaining b.u.t.ter over the tops. Tent the m.u.f.fin tins with nonstick spray-coated foil.

Let Rise Using Any of These Methods For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 45-minute to 1-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 48 hours, then set out at room temperature. When the dough nears the foil, remove it and continue the rise until the dough doubles from the original size or extends about two-thirds of the way up the cup sides. For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 45-minute to 1-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 48 hours, then set out at room temperature. When the dough nears the foil, remove it and continue the rise until the dough doubles from the original size or extends about two-thirds of the way up the cup sides.

Baking Preliminaries 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 350F. Set the m.u.f.fin tins on a large rimmed baking sheet (to catch any boil-overs of the sauce). 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 350F. Set the m.u.f.fin tins on a large rimmed baking sheet (to catch any boil-overs of the sauce).

Baking Bake on the lower rack until nicely browned on top, 20 to 25 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with only a few particles at the bottom (or the centers register 200 to 202F on an instant-read thermometer). Remove to a wire rack and immediately run a knife around the buns to loosen. Place a heat-proof cutting board flat against the m.u.f.fin tin, then invert the tin and shake to remove the buns; the bottoms will become the tops. Transfer the buns to a serving plate. Sc.r.a.pe any sauce clinging to the cups out onto the buns; serve immediately. Bake on the lower rack until nicely browned on top, 20 to 25 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with only a few particles at the bottom (or the centers register 200 to 202F on an instant-read thermometer). Remove to a wire rack and immediately run a knife around the buns to loosen. Place a heat-proof cutting board flat against the m.u.f.fin tin, then invert the tin and shake to remove the buns; the bottoms will become the tops. Transfer the buns to a serving plate. Sc.r.a.pe any sauce clinging to the cups out onto the buns; serve immediately.

Serving and Storing These are best served hot and fresh. They will keep at cool room temperature for up to 2 days. Freeze, airtight, for longer storage. Reheat, wrapped in foil, in a low oven (or under a plastic cover at low power in the microwave for about 20 seconds) before serving. These are best served hot and fresh. They will keep at cool room temperature for up to 2 days. Freeze, airtight, for longer storage. Reheat, wrapped in foil, in a low oven (or under a plastic cover at low power in the microwave for about 20 seconds) before serving.

Good and Easy Pecan Sticky Buns (or Saucy Maple-b.u.t.ter Sticky Buns) KS Quotient Easy: Fuss-free ingredients, added all at once. No hand-shaping required. Easy: Fuss-free ingredients, added all at once. No hand-shaping required.

Though remarkably easy, these, as the Keebler elf might say, are uncommonly good. You may never want to bother with the fussier traditional versions of this all-American favorite again.

Unlike most sticky buns, these require no hand-shaping, so they are perfect for people lacking the time or expertise to fiddle with that task. The dough-half a batch of the Easy White Bread recipe-is quickly divided up and shaped as it bakes in m.u.f.fin pans. The sticky bun sauce can be readied well ahead (as can the dough), making the preparations before the second rise very simple. For convenience, the second rise can take place in the refrigerator, so you can hold the rolls up to 48 hours before baking.

The following buns require only a half-batch of the dough recipe; use the other half to ready a loaf of bread as directed in the original recipe. For the dozen buns, you'll need two 6-cup m.u.f.fin tins with "jumbo," or "Texas-size" cups-that is, cups measuring 3 to 3 inches across and with a volume of about 1 cup each.

Yield: 12 large sticky buns batch dough for Easy White Bread Loaves Easy White Bread Loaves, stirred and ready for the second rise cup dark raisins, rinsed under hot water, thoroughly drained, and patted dry, optional6 tablespoons ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted and slightly cooled1 cups chopped pecans1 recipe Caramel Sticky Bun Sauce Caramel Sticky Bun Sauce or or Maple-b.u.t.ter Sticky Bun Sauce Maple-b.u.t.ter Sticky Bun Sauce, at room temperatureUnbleached white bread flour or all-purpose white flour if needed for dustingSecond Rise Have on hand half a batch of Easy White Bread dough, ready for the second rise. Vigorously stir the raisins into the dough until evenly distributed, if using. Have on hand half a batch of Easy White Bread dough, ready for the second rise. Vigorously stir the raisins into the dough until evenly distributed, if using.

Brush the 12 m.u.f.fin cups generously with b.u.t.ter, then add a scant tablespoon b.u.t.ter to each cup. Sprinkle tablespoon nuts in each cup, followed by 1 tablespoon sticky bun sauce. Divide the dough in half, dusting with a little flour if needed for easier handling. Using well-oiled kitchen shears and fingertips, cut each half into 6 equal portions, placing them in the m.u.f.fin cups as you work. Drizzle the dough tops with another tablespoon sauce, then sprinkle each with tablespoon more nuts. Sprinkle any remaining nuts over the dough tops. Drizzle the cups with the remaining b.u.t.ter. Press down firmly on each top to imbed the nuts. Tent the m.u.f.fin tins with nonstick spray-coated foil. Set the remaining sauce aside to brush the dough during baking.

Let Rise Using Any of These Methods For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 45-minute to 1-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 48 hours, then set out at room temperature. When the dough nears the foil, remove it and continue the rise until the dough doubles in bulk or extends two-thirds of the way up the cup sides. For a 1- to 2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 45-minute to 1-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 48 hours, then set out at room temperature. When the dough nears the foil, remove it and continue the rise until the dough doubles in bulk or extends two-thirds of the way up the cup sides.

Baking Preliminaries 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 375F. Set the m.u.f.fin tins on a large rimmed baking sheet (to catch any boil-overs of the sauce). 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 375F. Set the m.u.f.fin tins on a large rimmed baking sheet (to catch any boil-overs of the sauce).

Baking Bake on the lower rack until nicely browned on top, 18 to 22 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with only a few particles at the bottom end (or the centers register to 200 to 203 F on an instant-read thermometer). Brush each top with the remaining sticky bun sauce, dividing it equally among them. Return to the oven and bake until the sauce begins to bubble, about 3 minutes longer. Remove the pans to a wire rack for 5 minutes. Immediately run a knife around the buns to loosen. Place a heat-proof cutting board flat against the m.u.f.fin tin, then invert the tin and shake to remove the buns; the bottoms will become the tops. Transfer to a serving plate. Sc.r.a.pe any sauce and nuts clinging to the cups out onto the buns; serve immediately. Bake on the lower rack until nicely browned on top, 18 to 22 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with only a few particles at the bottom end (or the centers register to 200 to 203 F on an instant-read thermometer). Brush each top with the remaining sticky bun sauce, dividing it equally among them. Return to the oven and bake until the sauce begins to bubble, about 3 minutes longer. Remove the pans to a wire rack for 5 minutes. Immediately run a knife around the buns to loosen. Place a heat-proof cutting board flat against the m.u.f.fin tin, then invert the tin and shake to remove the buns; the bottoms will become the tops. Transfer to a serving plate. Sc.r.a.pe any sauce and nuts clinging to the cups out onto the buns; serve immediately.

Serving and Storing These are best served warm. They will keep at cool room temperature for up to 2 days. Freeze, airtight, for longer storage. Reheat, wrapped in foil, in a low oven (or under a microwave-safe cover on low power in the microwave) before serving. These are best served warm. They will keep at cool room temperature for up to 2 days. Freeze, airtight, for longer storage. Reheat, wrapped in foil, in a low oven (or under a microwave-safe cover on low power in the microwave) before serving.

Chapter 5: Old-World Cla.s.sics.

A number of today's favorite artisan-style breads-from the French fouga.s.se and baguette to the Italian flatbread trio: ciabatta, focaccia, and pizza-are in this chapter. Considering the enormous appeal of all of these, it's amazing how few ingredients they require. The secret is in the slow rising, which deepens the yeasty flavor and aroma. It's also in the details like dough consistency, shaping, and oven temperature, which yield the characteristic crackly, chewy, or crunchy-crisp texture desired.

Of course, not all European breads are of the crusty sort. For example, pain d'epice pain d'epice and and pain aux noix pain aux noix (spice bread and walnut bread) and brioche are all soft-textured French breads, suitable for spreading with cream cheese or b.u.t.ter. And both Swedish limpa (a rye loaf with a subtle, intriguing taste) and Scottish oatmeal bread are superior toasting and snacking breads. (spice bread and walnut bread) and brioche are all soft-textured French breads, suitable for spreading with cream cheese or b.u.t.ter. And both Swedish limpa (a rye loaf with a subtle, intriguing taste) and Scottish oatmeal bread are superior toasting and snacking breads.

Pain Ordinaire (Everyday French Baguettes or Batards) KS QuotientFairly Easy: Fuss-free ingredients, added all at once. Hand-shaping required.

It seems ironic that the most magnificent of French breads, the baguette, is called pain ordinaire, pain ordinaire, meaning ordinary, or everyday, bread. True, the ingredients are few in number and completely ordinary, but good baguettes are a thing of beauty, combining a shatteringly, breathtakingly crisp crust; soft, moist, yeasty interior; and a simple, balanced shape brilliantly designed for breaking, not sawing, a loaf into portions. meaning ordinary, or everyday, bread. True, the ingredients are few in number and completely ordinary, but good baguettes are a thing of beauty, combining a shatteringly, breathtakingly crisp crust; soft, moist, yeasty interior; and a simple, balanced shape brilliantly designed for breaking, not sawing, a loaf into portions.

The Kneadlessly Simple Kneadlessly Simple method is well-suited to making fine-tasting baguettes because the long, slow, r.e.t.a.r.ded rise coaxes out as much flavor as possible from the flour and yeast, which are, of course, all you've got to work with besides the salt. (Some bakers feel that using sea salt and spring water can add a flavor dimension, but in my blind tastings, almost n.o.body-including me-noticed any difference.) The "micro-kneading" that naturally occurs during the lengthy rise also ensures thorough gluten development, an essential for the good loaf structure. And, the more fully hydrated method is well-suited to making fine-tasting baguettes because the long, slow, r.e.t.a.r.ded rise coaxes out as much flavor as possible from the flour and yeast, which are, of course, all you've got to work with besides the salt. (Some bakers feel that using sea salt and spring water can add a flavor dimension, but in my blind tastings, almost n.o.body-including me-noticed any difference.) The "micro-kneading" that naturally occurs during the lengthy rise also ensures thorough gluten development, an essential for the good loaf structure. And, the more fully hydrated Kneadlessly Simple Kneadlessly Simple dough keeps the interior of the loaves soft longer than is normal for French bread-for up to three or four days! dough keeps the interior of the loaves soft longer than is normal for French bread-for up to three or four days!

The only "gotcha" is the shaping, which is really just a matter of practice. Plus, the loaves will taste wonderful and seem impressive even if they don't look quite as perfect as those from a French bakery. Moreover, you've also got a convenient fallback position: If your baguettes come out looking a little stubby, just say you were aiming for the slightly shorter loaves called batards! batards! (Or that longer loaves wouldn't fit in your oven!) (Or that longer loaves wouldn't fit in your oven!) This recipe requires a two-loaf baguette tray, but not to worry-if you don't have one on hand it's easy to fashion homemade trays from heavy-duty aluminum foil; see To Make a Baguette Tray To Make a Baguette Tray for instructions. This dough can also be used to make another attractively shaped loaf called a for instructions. This dough can also be used to make another attractively shaped loaf called a fouga.s.se fouga.s.se (see (see Fouga.s.se (or Black Olive Fouga.s.se) Fouga.s.se (or Black Olive Fouga.s.se) for instructions). for instructions).

Yield: Two 14-inch baguettes (or 10-inch batards)3 cups (16.25 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour or white bread flour, plus more as needed1 teaspoons table salt teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast1 cups ice water, plus more if neededCorn oil, canola oil, or other flavorless vegetable oil for coating dough and panFirst Rise In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir the water into the bowl, sc.r.a.ping down the sides and mixing until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more water to blend the ingredients. The dough should be very stiff; if necessary, add in enough more flour to stiffen it. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 20 to 24 hours. If convenient, vigorously stir the dough partway through the rise. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir the water into the bowl, sc.r.a.ping down the sides and mixing until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more water to blend the ingredients. The dough should be very stiff; if necessary, add in enough more flour to stiffen it. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 20 to 24 hours. If convenient, vigorously stir the dough partway through the rise.

Second Rise If the dough is sticky, working in the bowl, lift and turn it while dusting with and smoothing in more flour until stiffened and easy to handle; don't worry if it is not completely deflated. Divide the dough in half (preferably with oiled kitchen shears), placing each portion on a flour-dusted work surface. Let rest for 10 minutes. If the dough is sticky, working in the bowl, lift and turn it while dusting with and smoothing in more flour until stiffened and easy to handle; don't worry if it is not completely deflated. Divide the dough in half (preferably with oiled kitchen shears), placing each portion on a flour-dusted work surface. Let rest for 10 minutes.

Dusting with flour as needed to facilitate handling, shape one portion into a rough log, then press out the dough into a 7 x 11-inch evenly thick rectangle. Working from a 7-inch side, lift up and fold the rectangle into thirds as if folding a business letter. Again press out into a rectangle; then working from an 11-inch side, roll up tightly into a log. Carefully press and pinch the seam tightly closed all along the length of the log. Dusting with flour as needed, roll the log back and forth on the surface, stretching and smoothing it out from the center until evenly thick and about 13 to 14 inches long. (For a batard, roll and stretch out until about 10 inches.) Transfer to an oiled metal baguette tray (or to a well-oiled, homemade foil tray set on a baking sheet-see To Make a Baguette Tray To Make a Baguette Tray). Repeat the shaping with the second portion. Using a single-edged razor blade if possible, or well-oiled serrated knife or kitchen shears, make four or five 3-inch-long, -inch-deep, evenly s.p.a.ced slashes on a slight diagonally along each loaf. Brush or spray the tops with oil. Tent the pan (or homemade tray) with nonstick spray-coated foil.

Let Rise Using Either of These Methods The extended rise will produce the absolute best flavor: for a 45- to 75-minute regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough doubles from the deflated size, removing the foil if the dough nears it. The extended rise will produce the absolute best flavor: for a 45- to 75-minute regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough doubles from the deflated size, removing the foil if the dough nears it.

Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 500F. Place a broiler pan on the oven bottom. Have ready a large rimless or low-rimmed baking sheet lined with baking parchment. 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 500F. Place a broiler pan on the oven bottom. Have ready a large rimless or low-rimmed baking sheet lined with baking parchment.

Baking Reduce the temperature to 475F. Immediately add a cup of ice water to the broiler pan, being careful of splattering and steam. Generously spritz or brush the loaves with water. Bake on the lower rack for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the loaves are just firm enough to hold their shape. Roll them out onto the parchment-lined baking sheet, and continue baking for 20 to 25 minutes, turning once or twice for all-over browning, until the loaves are well browned and their crusts very crisp. Test with a skewer inserted in the thickest part until it comes out with just slightly moist particles clinging to the bottom portion (or until the center registers 210 to 212F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 minutes more to be sure the centers are done. Transfer to a wire rack; let cool thoroughly. Reduce the temperature to 475F. Immediately add a cup of ice water to the broiler pan, being careful of splattering and steam. Generously spritz or brush the loaves with water. Bake on the lower rack for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the loaves are just firm enough to hold their shape. Roll them out onto the parchment-lined baking sheet, and continue baking for 20 to 25 minutes, turning once or twice for all-over browning, until the loaves are well browned and their crusts very crisp. Test with a skewer inserted in the thickest part until it comes out with just slightly moist particles clinging to the bottom portion (or until the center registers 210 to 212F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 minutes more to be sure the centers are done. Transfer to a wire rack; let cool thoroughly.

To Make a Baguette Tray Tear off two 20-inch-long sheets from a large (18-inch-wide) roll of heavy-duty foil. Lay one sheet on top of the other, shiny sides facing. (The dull side promotes browning better than the shiny side.) Working from an 18-inch side, fold the two layers in half, producing a long, st.u.r.dy 10-inch-wide strip. Still working from the 18-inch side, fold the strip in half, then pinch and press together along the fold line to produce a st.u.r.dy 2-inch-high center pleat. Next, working just below the pleat, open the two foil layers out away from the pleat on each side and bend them to create two parallel, connected U-shaped troughs. Lay the tray on a large rimmed baking sheet. Tear off two 20-inch-long sheets from a large (18-inch-wide) roll of heavy-duty foil. Lay one sheet on top of the other, shiny sides facing. (The dull side promotes browning better than the shiny side.) Working from an 18-inch side, fold the two layers in half, producing a long, st.u.r.dy 10-inch-wide strip. Still working from the 18-inch side, fold the strip in half, then pinch and press together along the fold line to produce a st.u.r.dy 2-inch-high center pleat. Next, working just below the pleat, open the two foil layers out away from the pleat on each side and bend them to create two parallel, connected U-shaped troughs. Lay the tray on a large rimmed baking sheet.

Serving and Storing Tear or cut the loaves into portions; the bread tastes good warm but the texture will be better when it cools. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store wrapped in foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for a few minutes. The baguettes keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 1 month. Tear or cut the loaves into portions; the bread tastes good warm but the texture will be better when it cools. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store wrapped in foil: The crust will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for a few minutes. The baguettes keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 1 month.

Fouga.s.se (or Black Olive Fouga.s.se) KS Quotient Fairly Easy: Fuss-free ingredients, added all at once. Hand-shaping required. Fairly Easy: Fuss-free ingredients, added all at once. Hand-shaping required.

Fouga.s.se, which means "ladder," was originally a hearth bread and is related to focaccia. A tradition in Provence, fouga.s.ses are often flavored with black olives, anchovy paste, pork cracklings, or Gruyere cheese. Slightly sweet versions are also readied for holidays. which means "ladder," was originally a hearth bread and is related to focaccia. A tradition in Provence, fouga.s.ses are often flavored with black olives, anchovy paste, pork cracklings, or Gruyere cheese. Slightly sweet versions are also readied for holidays.

Like focaccia, fouga.s.ses are fairly thin, flat, and crisp, but, as their name suggests, their appearance is entirely different: The most prominent feature is usually deep slashes, or "ladders," that cut through and open up decorative slits in the dough; the effect is somewhat like that of the cutwork patterns in some fine table and bed linens. Besides adding visual drama, the ladders yield especially crusty loaves by increasing the surface area directly exposed to the heat.

One of the most artful and popular fouga.s.se loaf shapes, which I love and call for here, is the "tree of life" form: One elongated slot is slashed down the center of a gently rounded pine tree shape (think rounded triangle or teardrop) and four or so perpendicular side openings fan out from the center slit on each side to suggest its branches. Don't worry, it's easier than it sounds; even an inexpert rendering looks enticing.

Traditional Provencal bakers also create much more elaborate shapes of intertwined double or even triple trees, as well as a.s.sorted round and other (usually symmetrical) fantasy forms. Sometimes fouga.s.ses include several dozen "ladders," and are almost too pretty to eat.

To make fouga.s.ses, prepare the Pain Ordinaire (Everyday French Baguettes or Batards) Pain Ordinaire (Everyday French Baguettes or Batards) dough and complete the first rise as directed. Then use the following recipe to prepare a "plain" or black olive version. The olives are a nice addition but hardly necessary: The "plain" fouga.s.ses have a remarkable chewiness that complements the already enticing French bread flavor. dough and complete the first rise as directed. Then use the following recipe to prepare a "plain" or black olive version. The olives are a nice addition but hardly necessary: The "plain" fouga.s.ses have a remarkable chewiness that complements the already enticing French bread flavor.

Yield: four 9- to 10-inch-long fouga.s.ses cup well-drained, chopped (pitted) Nicoise olives, optional1 batch Pain Ordinaire (Everyday French Baguettes or Batards) Pain Ordinaire (Everyday French Baguettes or Batards) dough, ready for its second rise dough, ready for its second riseUnbleached all-purpose white flour or bread flour for dustingWhite or yellow cornmeal for dustingSecond Rise If adding olives, pat them dry on paper towels, then evenly fold into the dough. If it is sticky, working in the bowl, lift and turn it while dusting with and smoothing in more flour until stiffened and easy to handle. Spray four 10-inch-long sheets of baking parchment with nonstick spray. Generously dust them with flour. If adding olives, pat them dry on paper towels, then evenly fold into the dough. If it is sticky, working in the bowl, lift and turn it while dusting with and smoothing in more flour until stiffened and easy to handle. Spray four 10-inch-long sheets of baking parchment with nonstick spray. Generously dust them with flour.

Divide the dough in quarters (oiled kitchen shears work best), placing each portion on a sheet. Let rest for 10 minutes. Dusting the dough with flour as needed, pat and press one portion out into an 8- to 9-inch-long tree of life (rounded triangle) shape. Using well-oiled kitchen shears or a pizza wheel, cut a 5- to 6-inch-long center slash that goes completely through the dough and opens up a gash down its length, but stops about an inch short of the point and bottom edge. Cut three or four 1- to 1-inch-long slashes that fan out and form slots on each side of the center one; be sure that the slashes don't cut into one another or through the edge of the dough. With flour-dusted fingertips, stretch and pull the dough out from the top, bottom, and sides so the cuts open up as much as possible; otherwise they may close up as the dough rises. Tent the fouga.s.ses with nonstick spray-coated foil.

Let Rise Using Either of These Methods For a 30- to 60-minute regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then let stand, covered, until warmed up. For loaves that have a well-defined shape, large holes, and more chew, let rise for the minimum time; for loaves with a softer, plumper look and lighter crumb, let rise longer. For a 30- to 60-minute regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then let stand, covered, until warmed up. For loaves that have a well-defined shape, large holes, and more chew, let rise for the minimum time; for loaves with a softer, plumper look and lighter crumb, let rise longer.

Baking Preliminaries 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lowest position in the oven; preheat to 500F. Place a broiler pan on the oven bottom. Place a very large rimmed baking sheet upside down on the lowest rack. Generously spritz or brush the loaves with water, then generously dust them with cornmeal. 20 minutes before baking time, put a rack in the lowest position in the oven; preheat to 500F. Place a broiler pan on the oven bottom. Place a very large rimmed baking sheet upside down on the lowest rack. Generously spritz or brush the loaves with water, then generously dust them with cornmeal.

Baking Reduce the temperature to 475F. Immediately add a cup of ice water to the broiler pan, being careful of splattering and steam. Remove the heated upside-down baking sheet and arrange two fouga.s.ses (with parchment) on it. Return the baking sheet to the lowest rack and bake for 12 to 16 minutes, or until the loaves are well browned and their crusts very crisp. Test with a skewer inserted in the thickest part until it comes out with just slightly moist particles clinging to the bottom portion (or until the center registers 205 to 207F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for about 3 minutes more, just to be sure the centers are done. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool. Repeat the baking with the remaining two fouga.s.ses. Reduce the temperature to 475F. Immediately add a cup of ice water to the broiler pan, being careful of splattering and steam. Remove the heated upside-down baking sheet and arrange two fouga.s.ses (with parchment) on it. Return the baking sheet to the lowest rack and bake for 12 to 16 minutes, or until the loaves are well browned and their crusts very crisp. Test with a skewer inserted in the thickest part until it comes out with just slightly moist particles clinging to the bottom portion (or until the center registers 205 to 207F on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for about 3 minutes more, just to be sure the centers are done. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool. Repeat the baking with the remaining two fouga.s.ses.

Serving and Storing Tear or cut the fouga.s.ses into portions; eat warm or cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store wrapped in foil: The crusts will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for 5 minutes. The fouga.s.ses keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 1 month. Tear or cut the fouga.s.ses into portions; eat warm or cool. Cool completely before storing. To maintain the crisp crust, store draped with a clean tea towel or in a heavy paper bag. Or store wrapped in foil: The crusts will soften, but can be crisped by heating the loaf, uncovered, in a 400F oven for 5 minutes. The fouga.s.ses keep at room temperature for up to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 1 month.

Brioche KS Quotient Fairly Easy: Two-stage mixing. No hand-shaping. Fairly Easy: Two-stage mixing. No hand-shaping.

Brioche is one of the richest and most finely textured yeast doughs; individual slices almost look as soft and golden as pound cake, though they are almost never more than faintly sweet. Brioche is lovely eaten both as is and in fancy French toast, and is sometimes called for in very elegant bread puddings. (I personally can't bear to use brioche for this purpose; it seems too contrary to the traditional notion of bread puddings as economizers designed to salvage pieces of unwanted everyday bread.) The most elaborate brioche is brioche a tete, brioche a tete, or "brioche with a head," which is baked in a special fluted pan and has a perky topknot rising in the center. Because the or "brioche with a head," which is baked in a special fluted pan and has a perky topknot rising in the center. Because the Kneadlessly Simple Kneadlessly Simple dough tends to be soft, and since I recall my fellow pastry school students and I producing many lopsided and sunken topknots while learning to work with brioche dough, I have opted for an easier, but equally delicious, "headless" version here. Bake it in a large loaf pan, or for a beautiful, foolproof decorative look, in a kugelhopf, Bundt, or similar fluted tube pan. (For a very sophisticated coffee cake, fold in chocolate shards and top the brioche with chocolate ganache glaze as directed in the variation at the end of the recipe.) dough tends to be soft, and since I recall my fellow pastry school students and I producing many lopsided and sunken topknots while learning to work with brioche dough, I have opted for an easier, but equally delicious, "headless" version here. Bake it in a large loaf pan, or for a beautiful, foolproof decorative look, in a kugelhopf, Bundt, or similar fluted tube pan. (For a very sophisticated coffee cake, fold in chocolate shards and top the brioche with chocolate ganache glaze as directed in the variation at the end of the recipe.) This recipe calls for beating in a lot of b.u.t.ter and eggs before the second rise, so, while this can be done by hand, it's easiest to use a heavy-duty stand mixer fitted with a paddle.

Yield: 1 brioche, 14 to 16 slices2 cups (12.5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour, plus cup (3.75 ounces), plus more as needed5 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided1 teaspoons table salt1 teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast1 cups plus 2 tablespoons ice water, plus more if needed10 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, soft but not melted, cut into -inch pieces, plus more for brushing dough top and brioche pan1/3 cup good-quality instant nonfat dry milk powder (don't use a generic brand)2 large eggs plus 1 egg yolk, at room temperature, plus 1 egg for egg wash (if using loaf pan)First Rise In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together 2 cups of the flour, 3 tablespoons sugar, the salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir in the ice water, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl and mixing until the dough is thoroughly blended. If the mixture is too dry to blend together, stir in just enough more ice water to facilitate mixing and yield a slightly firm dough. If the mixture is soft, stir in enough more flour to make it barely firm. Evenly brush the top lightly with b.u.t.ter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together 2 cups of the flour, 3 tablespoons sugar, the salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir in the ice water, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl and mixing until the dough is thoroughly blended. If the mixture is too dry to blend together, stir in just enough more ice water to facilitate mixing and yield a slightly firm dough. If the mixture is soft, stir in enough more flour to make it barely firm. Evenly brush the top lightly with b.u.t.ter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.

Second Rise In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and the milk powder, then thoroughly whisk in the 2 eggs plus egg yolk until well blended. Gradually add the egg mixture, then cup of the flour into the dough and mix vigorously to incorporate; use a paddle and heavy-duty mixer on low if available. Add the b.u.t.ter a tablespoon or two at a time, mixing after each addition until smoothly incorporated. If dough still seems very moist and soft, mix in a few tablespoons more flour until slightly thicker than thick pancake batter. Turn out into a well-greased 8- to 10-cup Bundt or kugelhopf pan, or a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan. Cover with nonstick spray-coated plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour to firm up the b.u.t.ter. In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and the milk powder, then thoroughly whisk in the 2 eggs plus egg yolk until well blended. Gradually add the egg mixture, then cup of the flour into the dough and mix vigorously to incorporate; use a paddle and heavy-duty mixer on low if available. Add the b.u.t.ter a tablespoon or two at a time, mixing after each addition until smoothly incorporated. If dough still seems very moist and soft, mix in a few tablespoons more flour until slightly thicker than thick pancake batter. Turn out into a well-greased 8- to 10-cup Bundt or kugelhopf pan, or a 9 x 5-inch loaf pan. Cover with nonstick spray-coated plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour to firm up the b.u.t.ter.

Let Rise Using Either of These Methods For a 2- to 3-hour regular rise, let stand at cool room temperature; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 48 hours, then set out at room temperature. Let rise until the dough reaches the pan rim if using an 8-cup tube pan or loaf pan or to 1 inch below the rim if using a 10-cup pan. Remove the plastic wrap as the dough nears it. For a 2- to 3-hour regular rise, let stand at cool room temperature; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 48 hours, then set out at room temperature. Let rise until the dough reaches the pan rim if using an 8-cup tube pan or loaf pan or to 1 inch below the rim if using a 10-cup pan. Remove the plastic wrap as the dough nears it.

Baking Preliminaries 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 350F. 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 350F.

Baking If baking in the loaf pan, mix the remaining egg for the egg wash with 2 teaspoons water. Evenly brush over the dough top. Omit the glaze if the brioche will be baked in a fluted pan and served inverted. Bake on the lower rack for 35 to 45 minutes, covering the surface with foil partway through to prevent over-browning if necessary. Continue baking for 15 to 25 minutes more, until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few particles clinging to the bottom (or until the center registers 201 to 203F on an instant-read thermometer); the baking time will be longer in the loaf pan. When the brioche seems done, bake for 5 minutes longer to ensure the center is baked through. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the brioche to loosen it from the pan and transfer to the rack; let cool completely. If baking in the loaf pan, mix the remaining egg for the egg wash with 2 teaspoons water. Evenly brush over the dough top. Omit the glaze if the brioche will be baked in a fluted pan and served inverted. Bake on the lower rack for 35 to 45 minutes, covering the surface with foil partway through to prevent over-browning if necessary. Continue baking for 15 to 25 minutes more, until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few particles clinging to the bottom (or until the center registers 201 to 203F on an instant-read thermometer); the baking time will be longer in the loaf pan. When the brioche seems done, bake for 5 minutes longer to ensure the center is baked through. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the brioche to loosen it from the pan and transfer to the rack; let cool completely.

Tip The accelerated rise is not offered for this bread, as the extra warmth might cause the b.u.t.ter in the dough to soften too much. The accelerated rise is not offered for this bread, as the extra warmth might cause the b.u.t.ter in the dough to soften too much.

Serving and Storing The loaf tastes and slices best fresh and at room temperature. Cool completely before storing airtight in plastic or foil. The bread will keep at room temperature for up 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months. The loaf tastes and slices best fresh and at room temperature. Cool completely before storing airtight in plastic or foil. The bread will keep at room temperature for up 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.

Variation Brioche with Chocolate Shards Shave or chop 8 to 10 ounces of fine-quality bittersweet or semisweet chocolate into shards. Thoroughly fold into the dough right after the b.u.t.ter and extra flour have been incorporated (before the second rise). Proceed as for the original. Top the finished brioche with Chocolate Ganache Glaze Chocolate Ganache Glaze while still warm, if desired. while still warm, if desired.

French Walnut Bread (Pain aux Noix) KS Quotient Super Easy: Short ingredient list; one-stage mixing. No hand-shaping. Super Easy: Short ingredient list; one-stage mixing. No hand-shaping.

This earthy, nutty-tasting bread is a French favorite, especially in the Dordogne region. It is wonderful topped with a creamy cheese or fine b.u.t.ter. Some pain aux noix recipes are hand-shaped and fairly elaborate; others are fairly simple, like this one. The only remotely fussy step is toasting the walnuts, which I don't skip because it really intensifies and mellows their flavor. I don't skimp on their quality either-they must be very fresh and nutty-sweet.

My 3 -quart French enameled cast iron Dutch oven works well for baking this bread, but any similar 3- to 4-quart heavy pot will do. (If you don't have a Dutch oven, see Choosing the Right Pot: Choosing the Right Pot: for other options.) for other options.) Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 portions or slices2 cups (10 ounces) whole wheat flour, plus extra as needed2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour or white bread flour1 teaspoon granulated sugar2 teaspoons table salt teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast2 cups ice water, plus more if neededWalnut oil or flavorless vegetable oil for coating dough top and baking pot1 cups fresh, fine-quality walnut halvesFirst Rise In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the whole wheat and white flour, sugar, salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir in the water, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl and mixing until the dough is well blended and smooth. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more water to blend the ingredients; don't over-moisten, as the dough should be very stiff. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the whole wheat and white flour, sugar, salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir in the water, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl and mixing until the dough is well blended and smooth. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more water to blend the ingredients; don't over-moisten, as the dough should be very stiff. Brush or spray the top with oil. Tightly cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours.

Meanwhile, reserve 4 perfect walnut halves for garnish. Spread the remainder on a baking sheet and lightly toast, stirring several times, in a preheated 325F oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until fragrant and just lightly browned. Let cool. Chop finely (in a food processor, if desired).