Julia Ward Howe Part 48

"_February 3._ Early at Piraeus. Kalopothakis[89] met us there, coming on board.... To Athens by carriage. Acropolis as beautiful as ever. It looks small after the Egyptian temples, and of course more modern--still very impressive...."

[89] A Greek Protestant minister.

Athens, with its welcoming faces of friends, seemed almost homelike after the Eastern journeyings. The Journal tells of sight-seeing for the benefit of the younger traveller, and of other things beside.

"Called on the _Grande Maitresse_ at the Palace in order to have cards for the ball. Saw the Schliemann relics from Mycenae, and the wonderful marbles gathered in the Museum. Have been writing something about these.

To ball at the palace in my usual sober rig, black velvet and so forth.

Queen very gracious to us.... Home by three in the morning."

"_February 12._ At ten in the morning came a committee of Cretan officers of the late insurrection, presenting a letter through Mr.

Rainieri, himself a Cretan, expressing the grat.i.tude of the Cretans to dear Papa for his efforts in their behalf.... Mr. Rainieri made a suitable address in French--to which I replied in the same tongue.

Coffee and cordial were served. The occasion was of great interest....

In the afternoon spoke at Mrs. Felton's of the Advancement of Women as promoted by a.s.sociation. An American dinner of perhaps forty, nearly all women, Greek, but understanding English. A good occasion. To party at Madame Schliemann's."

"_February 15._ Miserable with a cold. A confused day in which nothing seemed to go right. Kept losing sight of papers and other things. Felt as if G.o.d could not have made so bad a day--my day after all; I made it."

"_February 18._ To ball at the Palace. King took Maud out in the German."

"_February 21._ The day for eating the roast lamb with the Cretan chiefs. Went down to the Piraeus warmly wrapped up.... Occasion most interesting. Much speech-making and toasting. I mentioned Felton."

"_February 22._ Dreadful day of departure. Packed steadily but with constant interruptions. The Cretans called upon me to present their photographs and take leave. Tried a poem, failed. Had black coffee--tried another--succeeded...."

"_February 23._ Sir Henry Layard, late English minister to the Porte, is on board. Talked Greek at dinner--beautiful evening--night as rough as it could well be. Little sleep for any of us. Glad to see that Lord Hartington has spoken in favor of the Greeks, censuring the English Government."

"_February 26...._ Sir Henry Layard and I _tete-a-tete_ on deck, looking at the prospect--he coveting it, no doubt, for his rapacious country, I coveting it for liberty and true civilization."

The spring was spent in Italy. In May they came to London.

"_May 29._ Met Mr. William Speare.... He told me of his son's death, and of that of William Lloyd Garrison. Gallant old man, unique and enviable in reputation and character. Who, oh! who can take his place? 'Show us the Father.'"

The last weeks of the London visit were again too full for any adequate account of them to find its way into her letters or journals. She visited London once more in later years, but this was her last long stay. She never forgot the friends she made there, and it was one of the many day-dreams she enjoyed that she should return for another London season. Sometimes after reading the account of the gay doings chronicled in the London "World," which Edmund Yates sent her as long as he lived, she would cry out, "O! for a whiff of London!" or, "My dear, we must have another London season before I die!"

CHAPTER III

NEWPORT

1879-1882; _aet._ 60-63

A THOUGHT FOR WASHING DAY

The clothes-line is a Rosary Of household help and care; Each little saint the Mother loves Is represented there.

And when across her garden plot She walks, with thoughtful heed, I should not wonder if she told Each garment for a bead.

A stranger pa.s.sing, I salute The Household in its wear, And smile to think how near of kin Are love and toil and prayer.

J. W. H.

July, 1879, found our mother at home at Oak Glen, unpacking trunks and reading a book on the Talmud. She had met the three married daughters in Boston ("We talked incessantly for seven hours," says the Journal), and Florence and Maud accompanied her to Newport, where Florence had established her summer nursery. There were three Hall grandchildren now, and they became an important factor in the life at Oak Glen. All through the records of these summer days runs the patter of children's feet.

She kept only one corner of the house for her private use; a room with the north light which she then thought essential. This was at once bedroom and workroom: she never had a separate study or library. Here, as in Green Peace days, she worked quietly and steadily. Children and grandchildren might fill the house, might have everything it contained: she asked only for her "precious time." When she could not have an hour she took half an hour, a quarter, ten minutes. No fragment of time was too small for her to save, to invest in study or in work; and as her mind concentrated instantly on the subject in hand, no such fragment was wasted. The rule of mind over body was relentless: sick or well, she must finish her stint before the day closed.

This summer of 1879 was a happy one. After the feverish months of travel and pleasure, her delight in the soft Newport climate was deeper than ever. She always felt the change from the air of the mainland to that of the island, and never crossed the bridge from Tiverton to Bristol Ferry without an exclamation of pleasure. She used to say that the soft, cool air of Newport smoothed out the tired, tangled nerves "like a silver comb"!

"_July 29._ To my Club, where, better than any ovation, an affectionate greeting awaited me.... Thucydides is very difficult."

This was the Town and Country Club, for some years a great interest to her. In her "Reminiscences" she tells how in a summer of the late sixties or early seventies, when Bret Harte and Dr. J. G. Holland, Professors Lane and Goodwin of Harvard were spending the season at Newport: "A little band of us combined to improve the beautiful summer season by picnics, sailing parties, and household soirees, in all of which these brilliant literary lights took part. Helen Hunt and Kate Field were often of our company, and Colonel Higginson was always with us."

Among the frolics of that summer was the mock Commencement, arranged by her and Professor Lane.

"I acted as President, Colonel Higginson as my aide; we both marched up the aisle in Oxford caps and gowns. I opened the proceedings by an address in Latin, Greek, and English; and when I turned to Colonel Higginson and called him '_fili mihi dilectissime_,' he wickedly replied with three bows of such comic gravity that I almost gave way to unbecoming laughter. Not long before this he had published a paper on the Greek G.o.ddesses. I therefore a.s.signed as his theme the problem, 'How to sacrifice an Irish bull to a Greek G.o.ddess.' Colonel George Waring, the well-known engineer, being at that time in charge of a valuable farm in the neighborhood, was invited to discuss 'Social small potatoes: how to enlarge their eyes.' An essay on rhinoscopy was given by f.a.n.n.y Fern, the which I, chalk in hand, ill.u.s.trated on the blackboard by the following equation:--

"Nose + nose + nose = proboscis.

Nose - nose - nose = snub.

"A cla.s.s was called upon for recitations from Mother Goose in seven different languages. At the head of this Professor Goodwin honored us with a Greek version of the 'Man in the Moon.' A recent Harvard graduate, Dr. Gorham Bacon, recited the following, also of her composition:--

"'Heu iterum didulum, Felis c.u.m fidulum, Vacca transiluit lunam, Caniculus ridet, Quum tale videt, Et dish ambulavit c.u.m spoonam.'

"The question being asked whether this last line was in strict accordance with grammar, the scholar gave the following rule: 'The conditions of grammar should always give way to the exigencies of rhyme.'

"The delicious fooling of that unique summer was never repeated. Out of it came, however, the more serious and permanent a.s.sociation known as the Town and Country Club of Newport. I felt the need of upholding the higher social ideals and of not leaving true culture unrepresented, even in a summer watering-place."

With the help and advice of Professor and Mrs. William B. Rogers, Colonel Higginson and Mr. Samuel Powell, a number of friends were called together in the early summer of 1874 and she laid before them the plan of the proposed club. After speaking of the growing predominance of the gay and fashionable element in Newport society, she said:--

"But some things can be done as well as others. Newport ... has also treasures which are still unexplored....

"The milliner and the mantua-maker bring here their costly goods and tempt the eye with forms and colors. But the great artist, Nature, has here merchandise far more precious, whose value and beauty are understood by few of us. I remember once meeting a philosopher in a jeweller's shop. The master of the establishment exhibited to us his choicest wares, among others a costly diamond ornament. The philosopher [we think it was Emerson] said, 'A violet is more beautiful.' I cannot forget the disgust expressed in the jeweller's face at this remark."

She then outlined the course laid out by the "Friends in Council,"

lectures on astronomy, botany, natural history, all by eminent persons.

They would not expect the Club to meet them on their own ground. They would come to that of their hearers, and would unfold to them what they were able to understand.

Accordingly, Weir Mitch.e.l.l discoursed to them on the Poison of Serpents, John La Farge on the South Sea Islands, Alexander Aga.s.siz on Deep-Sea Dredging and the Panama Ca.n.a.l; while Mark Twain and "Hans Breitmann"

made merry, each in his own inimitable fashion.