Journals of Travels in Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan and the Neighbouring Countries Part 11

_Dhak_, Fici, Musa farinacea, Bambusae continue. Compositae are common on the clearings. A Mimosa occurs on the summit, and Andrachne, 3-foliata. Thence we descended for a short distance, and halted at the foot of the Patkaye near the stream.

Direction S.S.E. Distance four miles.

Elevation 3026 feet. Temperature 66 degrees. Boiling point, 206.5 degrees.

All the trees have a stunted appearance.

_Feb_. _26th_.--Halted.

_Feb_. _27th_.--To-day ascended a hill to the W. of our camp, certainly 500 feet above it; its features are the same, Porana alata. Bignonia, a Leguminous tree, a ditto Mimosa. Panax, Lobelia zeylanica, Artemisia, Cordia. Panic.u.m curvatum, Anthistina arundinacea.

Panic.u.m _plicatoides_, Smithea, Hyperic.u.m of the plains, and Potentilla, Sida, and Plantago all plain plants, are found at the summit. To the S.W. of our camp are the remains of a stockade, which was destroyed by fire, it is said, last year. The only interesting plants gathered were a Cyrtandracea, AEschynanthus confertus mihi, a Dendrobium, and a fine Hedychium, beautifully scented, occurring as an epiphyte. Of Ficus several species are common. On the large mountain to the N.E., either birch or larches are visible, their elevation being probably 1000 feet above that of our camp.

The party halted until the 3rd March; I had one day's capital fishing in the Kamtee-chick with a running line.

_March 2nd_.--A Havildar arrived, bearing a letter from Dr. Bayfield, {64} stating that he would be with the Major in two or three days.

_March 3rd_.--Capt. Hannay and I started in advance; we crossed a low hill, then a torrent, after which we commenced a very steep ascent. This ascent, with one or two exceptions, continued the whole way to the top of the Patkaye range, which must be 1500 feet above our halting place. The features continued the same. The Patkaye are covered with dry tree jungle on the northern side. The place, whence the descent begins, is not well defined: at first winding through damp tree jungle. After a march of four hours we descended to a small stream, the Ramyoom, which forms the British boundary; this we followed for some distance through the wettest, rankest jungle I ever saw: thence we ascended a low hill, and the remainder of our march was for the most part a continued descent through dry open tree jungle, until we again descended into the damp zone. We reached water as night was setting in, and bivouacked in the bed of the stream.

The former vegetation continued until we reached the dry forest covering the upper parts of the Patkaye, and here the forms indicating elevation increased. Polygonatum, Ceratostemma, Bryum Sollyanum, and a Ternstroemiacea occurred, Epiphytical orchideae are common, but were almost all out of flower. Owing to the thickness of the jungle, and the height of the trees, we could not ascertain what the trees were; but from the absence of fruit, etc. on the ground, I am inclined to think that they are not Cupuliferae. _Betee bans_, (of the natives) a kind of bamboo, perhaps the same as the genus Schizostachyum, N. ab. E. is common all over the summit, and descends to a considerable distance, especially on the southern side. On this side the prevalence of interesting forms was much more evident. Along the Kamyoom I gathered an Acer, an Arbutus, a Daphne. Polypodium arboreum ferrugineum was likewise here very common.

Succulent Urticeae, Acanthaceae swarmed: a huge Calamus was likewise conspicuous. On this side there is plenty of the bamboo called _Deo_ _bans_, articulis spinarum verticillis armatis, habitu B. bacciferae.

Among the trees on the descent, Magnoliaceae occur; the petals of one I picked up were light yellow, tinged with brown in the centre. A species of Viola occurred low down. I believe it is V. serpens. On both sides, but especially the south Ceratostemma variegatum occurs; this is common still lower down the Kamyoom. The trees along this portion of the boundary nullah, are covered with ma.s.ses of pendulous Neckera and Hypna.

On the summit I observed two species of Panax, a fruitescent or arbusculous Composita, Asplenum nidus, Laurineae, etc.

The direction of the day's journey was about S.S.E. The distance 15 miles.

_March 4th_.--We reached almost immediately the real Kamyoom, down which our route laid; we halted in its bed at 3, after a march most fatiguing from crossing and recrossing the stream, of about ten miles: general direction E.S.E. The features of this torrent are precisely the same as those of the Kamteechick, but Sedgewickia is common. I gathered a Stauntonia, Ceratostemma variegatum, and some fine ferns, and two or three Begoniaceae, Magnoliaceae three species occur, among which is Liriodendron; Cupiliferae are common, especially Quercus cupulis lamellatis, nuce depressa; a Viburnum likewise occurred. The stream is small; the banks in many places precipitous. In one place great portion of the base of a hill had been laid waste by a torrent coming apparently from the naked rocks; trees and soil were strewed in every direction.

Clay-slate is common.

I should have mentioned that d.i.c.ksonia occurs at 4000 feet, as well as (Camellia) _Bunfullup_, after that the former ceases. The two Saurauja of Suddiya continue up to 4000 feet of elevation; on the first ascent I observed a large Thistle, but out of flower. No cultivation was pa.s.sed after surmounting the first ascent; we pa.s.sed the remains of a stockade on the 4th, in which some Singphos had on a previous inroad stockaded themselves. The hills are generally covered with tree jungle, except occasionally on the north side where they have probably at some early period, been cleared for cultivation. To this may be added the curious appearance of the trees indicating having been lopped.

Equisetum continues in the bed of the river. Nothing like a pine was observed.

_March 5th_.--Proceeded in an E.S.E. direction towards Kamyoom for a distance of four miles, where we met Dr. Bayfield. As we found from him that it was impossible to go on, as there were no rice coolies, etc. to be obtained, we returned to our halting place; where I remained chiefly from supposing that the Meewoon will start less objections when he sees that I am in his territory without coolies, etc. Fished in the afternoon. The Bookhar, or large Barbel already mentioned, still continues; but there is another species still more common, of a longer form, ventral fins reddish, mouth small, nose gibbous rough; {66} it takes a fly greedily, and is perhaps a more game fish than the other. All the birds inhabiting the water-courses of the north side of the Patkaye continue. Barking Deer are heard occasionally.

Gathered one fine Bleteoidia Orchidea, racemis erectis oblongis, sepalis petalisque fusco-luteis, arcte reflexis, labello albido, odore forti mellis. Engelhardtia occurs here, Pentaptera, Wallichia, Calamus, Saccharum, etc.

_March 7th_.--To-day the Meewoon arrived, accompanied by perhaps 200 people chiefly armed with spears; he was preceded by two gilt chattas. He made no objections to my remaining, and really appeared very good-natured. The first thing he did, however, was to seize a shillelagh, and thwack most heartily some of his coolies who remained to see our conference. He did not stay ten minutes.

_March 8th_.--To-day I examined superficially the ovary and young fruit of Ceratostemma variegatum, Roxb. The placenta which is very green, is 5- rayed. The substance of the walls of the ovary which is thick and white, projects towards the axis not only between the lobes, but also opposite to each; so that the fruit is really 10-celled, but 5 of the cells are spurious. The production opposite the placentae necessarily divides the ovula of one placenta into two parcels, and these are they that have no adhesion with the axis. At present I can say nothing about the relative site of the lobes of the placentae, otherwise there is nothing remarkable, beyond the production of the ovary opposite the lobes of the placentae.

_March 12th_.--Yesterday evening Bayfield returned alone, leaving Hannay on the Patkaye, unable to come on or retreat, owing to his having no coolies. It was decided, that there was no other step left me to follow than going on to Ava, and I thus am enabled to obey the letter of Government, relative to my going to Ava, which reached me on the 10th by the Havildar. The Meewoon can give me no a.s.sistance towards returning, although he will spare me a few men to carry me on to Mogam. For the last three days I have been indisposed. Alt.i.tude 2138 by the Therm.

Temp. 208 degrees, at which water boils.

_March 13th_.--Left and proceeded down the Kamyoom, or properly Kam-mai- roan, according to Bayfield, in an E.S.E. direction for about seven miles, when we reached the previous halting place of Dr. Bayfield. We pa.s.sed before arriving at this a small Putar on which were some remains of old habitations; on it limes abound, and these are a sure test of inhabitation at some previous period.

The vegetation continues precisely the same as that of the Namtucheek, even to Podostemon Griffithianum, which I to-day observed for the first time.

_March 14th_.--Proceeded on, still keeping for the chief part of our march along the Kammiroan. We left this very soon, and crossed some low hills on which the jungles presented the same features. We left the village Kammiroan to our right. We did not see it, but I believe it consists of only two houses. Pa.s.sed through one khet, the first cultivated ground we saw after leaving that on the Kamchick; then we came on to a few more Putars, in which limes continue abundant. On these I find no less than three species of Rubus; in those parts on which rice has been cultivated a pretty fringed Hyperic.u.m likewise occurs, and these are the most interesting plants that have presented themselves. Our course improved much yesterday; it extended E. by S., and was rather less than seven miles. Halted at Kha-thung-kyoun, where the Meewoon had halted, and where the Dupha Gam had remained some time previous. The same vegetation occurs, Engelhardtia, Gleichenia _major_ longe scandens, Equisetum both species, Euphorbiacea nereifolia, d.i.c.ksonia rare, Scleria vaginis alatis, Plantago media, Zizania ciliaris, Melastoma malabathrica, Lycium arenarum, d.u.c.h.esnia indica, Mazus rugosus, the Suddiya Viburnum, Millingtonia pinnata, Pentaptera, Erythrina; an arboreous Eugenia fol.

magnis, abovatis, is however new, and Polypodium Wallichianum which occurred to-day growing on clay-slate. But considering the elevation at which we still remain to be tolerably high, the products both of the vegetable and animal kingdom are comparatively uninteresting. There are more epiphytical Orchideae on the south sides of these hills, than the north. Musci and Hepaticae are common, but do not embrace a great amount of species. Machantia asamica is common. Another new tree I found is probably a Careya or Barringtonia; the young inflorescence is nearly globular, and clothed with imbricated scales. Sedgewickia has disappeared. No tea was seen. There is but little doubt that on hills, the ranges of which rise gradually, the acclimatization of low plants may take place to such a degree, that such plants may be found at high elevations; can they however so far become acclimated, as to preponderate? I expected of course to find the same plants on both sides of the hills, but I did not expect to find Rottlerae, Fici, tree-ferns, etc., at an elevation of 4000 feet and upwards.

The fish of the streams continue the same, as well as the birds. The Ouzel, white and black, long-tailed Jay, white-headed Redstart, red-rumped ditto, all continue. Water Wagtails were seen to-day. This bird is uncommon in hill water-courses; one snipe was seen yesterday.

Ooloocks (Hylobates agilis), continue as in a.s.sam. With regard to fish, both species of Barbel occur; {68} the most killing bait for the large one, or Bookhar of the a.s.samese, is the green fucus, which is common, adhering to all the stones in these hill-streams: it is difficult to fix it on the hook. The line should be a running one, and not leaded, and the bait may be thrown as a fly. To it the largest fish rise most greedily; plenty of time must be allowed them to swallow before one strikes, otherwise no fish will be caught. All the same Palms continue except Calami, Areca, and Wallichiana.

Balsamineae are uncommon. There is one however, although rare, probably the same as the bright crimson-flowered one of the Meerep Panee. Urticeae have diminished; the Suddiya Viola occurred yesterday, the Asplenium, fronde lanceolat. continues common.

_March 14th_.--Halted. Water boiled 209 degrees. Temp. 59 and 60 degrees. Elevation 1622 feet.

_March 15th_.--Left the Meewoon about 8, and proceeded about 100 yards up the Khathing. Thence we struck off, and commenced the ascent, which continued without intermission for some hours, the whole way lying through heavy tree jungle. Ascent in some places very steep. On reaching the summit, or nearly so, the jungle became more open, and the route continued along the ridge. We then descended for 50 feet, and halted on an open gra.s.sy spot where we ascertained the alt.i.tude to be 5516 feet. Boiling point 202 degrees. Temperature of the air 63 degrees. The vegetation increased in interest; I noticed near the Khathing, Buddleia neemda, Pladera Justicioidea, which continues however all along even to 5000 feet. Thunbergia coccinea, Chondrospermum, d.i.c.ksonia; near and on the summit Magnoliae and two or three Cupuliferae, Daphne Strutheoloides, n.o.bis, Gymnostomum involutum, Berberis pinnata, the same as the Khasiya one, but scarce. Laurinea arborea, Bambusa monogynia, Rubus molucca.n.u.s: Frutex Ruscordeus, Loranthus, Anthistiria arundinacea, Melastoma, Cyathea, Compositae, Conyzoideae two or three, Correas one, Hedychium, Eurya, Gleichenia, Hermannia, Lycopodium ceranium, Hoya teretifolia, Acanthaceae two or three, Bucklandia.

We thence descended, and after a longish march reached the Natkaw Kyown, and finally halted on the Khusse Kyown. During this portion I gathered some very interesting plants, a new Ceratostemma, Adamia, two or three Orchideae, a beautiful large flowered Cyrtandracea, the same Daphne, an Umbellifera. Vaccineaceae, four species of Begoniae, a Viburnum.

Crawfurdia and Polypodium Wallichianum, which roofed in our shed; Musci increased as well as Succulent Urticeae in shady places. Smilacinae were common, especially one at elevations of from 3 to 5000 feet inflorescentia cernua. The features are the same, the drier woods crowning the ridges. On the trees of these, Orchideae and Filices are common, as well as in low parts in which Acanthaceae abound. I saw no _Betee-bhans_ nor Deo-bhans, (peculiar bamboos). Of the above, Ceratostemma, Daphane, Smilacinae, Cyathea, some of the Begoniae, the large flowered Cyrtandraceae, Umbelliferae are sure indications of considerable elevation. The course was nearly south. Distance about 13 miles. Thermometer in boiling water 206 degrees. Temperature of the air 50.5 degrees. Halting place, 3516.

_March 16th_.--Started before breakfast, and reached the Khusee Kyoung without any material descent. Thence we continued descending on the whole considerably until we reached Namthuga, at 10 A.M. Thence the descent increased. Halted on Kullack Boom. General direction S.; distance 13 miles. Noticed Areca up to 3800 feet, as well as Cheilosandra obovata, Bletea melleodora, and Begonia palmata as high as 3000 feet.

At Namthuga a Sambucus, probably S. Ebulus, a Mimosa, Pothos decursiva, Hedychium, Urtica urens, Gleichenia major, Tradescanthia panicularis.

Between this and Kullack Boom Acanthaceae are the most common; Paederia triphylla appears near the Boom, together with Arum viviparum. Black Pheasants were likewise heard on our route. On the open halting place, gra.s.ses preponderate. Anthestiria arundinacea, arbusculous Gordonia, and Saurauja, a Laurinea, Styrax, etc. AEsculus asamicus is common, and profusely in flower, and Pteris as on Thuma-thaya; Musa glauca made its appearance. From this open s.p.a.ce an extensive view is obtained of Hookhoom valley, bounding which occurs a range of hills stretching E.S.E.

and W.N.W. These in the centre present a gap in which a river is seen running S. The view to the E. is impeded by the trees on that face of the hill. The valley is as usual one ma.s.s of jungle, with here and there clear patches occurring, especially to the W. of S., but whether from cultivation or not, I am unable to say. The Namlunai river is visible; winding excessively, especially to the E.S.E., it appears a considerable stream with much sand: it pa.s.ses out towards the gap above alluded to, winding round the corner of the hills.

During the 16th, my attention was particularly directed towards Tea, which was said positively to exist. I obtained some of the bitter sort, or _Bunfullup_, but the plant which was pointed out to me as tea certainly was not, although resembling it a good deal. There is no reason for supposing, that it exists on these hills, and if tea is brought hence, it is I should think a spurious preparation. The soil is in many places yellow, in many brick-dust coloured. If the Tea existed in abundance, I must have seen it.

The hills which confine the valley, at least those which are obvious outliers of the Patkaye range, are characterised by conical peaks, and there is a bluff rock of good elevation to the W.S.W. .5 S.

[Valley of Hookhoom: p71.jpg]

_March 17th_.--Boiled water at 206 degrees Fahr. Thermometer in the air 61 degrees. Elevation 3270. Commenced the descent, which continued without interruption to the Loon-karankha, where we breakfasted. The bed of this, which is a mere mountain torrent, is of sandstone. Here Ceratostemma variegatum is very common, and has larger, broader and more obovate leaves, than before observed; Polypodium Wallichianum, a Begonia and Orchideae are common on its boulders. Continued our course at first up a considerable ascent, thence it was nearly an uniform descent.

Crossed the Namtuwa, along which our course lay for a short time. The latter part was through low wet jungle, along small water-courses, till we reached the Panglai Kha, along which we continued for some time.

Reached our halting place on the Namtuseek about 2 P.M. General direction E.S.E.; distance about ten miles. Noticed Podostemon Griffithianum, on rocks on the Namtuwa. My collector gathered one Daphne, Acanthus Solanacea occurred very abundantly, corinfundib. lab super postico, infer reflexo, laciniis bifidis. Low down observed the usual Dipterocarpus, Uncaria and Kaulfussia asamica, Dracaena. Mesua ferrea occurred during the first part of the march. Noticed the tracks of a Rhinoceros. At 5 P.M. water boiled at 210 degrees. Temperature 69 degrees. Elevation 1099 feet.

The most interesting plants were an Arum, an undescribed Ceratostemma, and a Celastrinea.

The collection formed between this place and Suddiya now amount to about 500 species. The vegetation of the lower portions is the same, or nearly so, on either side of the hills; but I did not observe near this the Polypodium ferrugineum arboreum, although there is a small arborescent species of this genus. On either side, the lower ranges are clothed with heavy wet tree jungle, the under-shrubs consisting of Acanthaceae, Rubiaceae, Filices, Aroideae, and Urticeae; Kaulfussia does not ascend so high on this side. Acanthacea solanacea appears peculiar to this side, although there is a species of the genus on the Kammiroan.

The plants indicating the greatest elevation are Acer, Ceratostemma miniatum, and angulatum, Vacciniaceae; Daphne, particularly the Patkaye one, and D. struthioloides, most of the Smilacineae, Berberis, etc. etc.

Bucklandia Crawfurdii, Begoniae, some Viburnia, Cyathea, etc. of Ceratostemma (Gay Lussacium?) several, perhaps not less than seven species occur; all have the same habit, and the same depot of nourishment in the thick portion near the _collet_. No Coniferae exist, although the elevation is more than sufficient to determine their appearance. In Orchideae the flora is certainly very rich, but few species are in flower

(_Memo_. To compare these elevational plants with those from the Mishmee hills, on which, speaking from memory, they are more abundant.)

_March 18th_.--Left at half-past 6, and arrived (after halting about one hour and a half) at 3 P.M. The road was very circuitous, for the first part E. by S., subsequently for some time N.N.E., and even N.E.; the general direction is perhaps E.; the distance certainly 18 miles. The greater part of the route lay through heavy but dryish tree jungle; but during the latter half, and especially towards Nempean, Putars or cultivated fields increased in number, and extent. We crossed one stream only. The soil is yellow and deep, occasionally inclining to brick-red; it is apparently much the same as that of Muttack. The low spots were uncommon. We saw only two paths diverging from ours; one of these led to Bone, which is about two miles from our path, in a south direction, and at no great distance from the Namtuseek.

The features of the country and its productions are much the same as those of Upper a.s.sam, indeed strikingly so. During the earlier part of our march we observed a fine Sh.o.r.ea in abundance; it had a n.o.ble straight stem, but the leaves were too small for Saul. The only new plants I found were Styrax floribus odoris, ligno albo close grained, arbor mediocris, a Baeobotrys, two Goodyerae, a Laurinea, Sparganium!

Tabernaemontana fructibus magnis, edulibus, fol. obovatis, and a species of Sh.o.r.ea.

I noticed the following plants in the following order from Namtuseek: d.i.c.ksonia, Areca, Calamus, Bambusa, speculis p.u.b.escentibus, deformatis, a species of Phrynium, Pladera justicioides, Chrysobaphus Roxburghii, Phyllanthus, Embilica, a species of Wendlandia common in places that appeared to have been formerly cleared; Gnetum lepidotum, Celastrinea _foliis Leguminosarum_, Bombax (inerme) Saccharum Megala, Imperata cylindica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Ingae sp., Sauraujae sp. Entada, Gleichenia, Hermannia, Blechnum orientale, Baeobotrys, Meniscium 3-phyllum, Sonerila, Acanthus leucostachys, Diplazium of Kujoo, _Podomolee_, Saccharum foliis apice spiraliter tortis, Osbeckia, Rottlera, LyG.o.dium, Rubus molucca.n.u.s, Centotheca, Zizania ciliaris, Viola asamica, Potamogeton nutans, foliis linearibus, Limnophila, Pontederia dilatata, Lobelia Zeylanica, Hyperic.u.m venustum. Panax foliis supra decompositis spinosis, Callicarpae 2 spec, d.u.c.h.esnea indica, Combretum, Melica latifolia, Magus rugosus, Vandellia peduncularis, Villarsia pumila, Artocarpus integrifolius, Piper, Lagerstraemia grandiflora, Roxb.

Dillenia speciosa, Spathodea. All these exist in a.s.sam.

The birds are the same. As for instance, common Maina, Doves, the Picus of low swampy places, and the _Lark_ of the plains of a.s.sam. Squirrel, ventre ferrugineo. Black Pheasant, _Phasia.n.u.s leucomela.n.u.s_, Laurineae, Acanthaceae, Rubiacea and Filices, are common in the jungles.

The Putars are clothed with the same gra.s.ses as in a.s.sam. Imperata cylindrica, Anthistiria arundinacea, Megala in low places with Alpinea Allughas, in those lately under cultivation, the Campanula of the B.