In The Hands Of A Chef Part 5

VINAIGRETTE.

teaspoon minced shallot teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon minced shallots 2 ounces aged Gouda, sliced paper-thin cup chervil sprigs

1.Preheat the oven to 400F.

2.If the asparagus are large, snap the fibrous portion off the root end of the stems, then peel the remaining stem. If the asparagus are pencil-thin, simply snap off the ends.

3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Season the boiling water generously with salt, add the asparagus, and cook until bright green and tender (the time will depend on the thickness of the asparagus). Plunge the asparagus into the ice water to stop the cooking. Drain thoroughly. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Season the boiling water generously with salt, add the asparagus, and cook until bright green and tender (the time will depend on the thickness of the asparagus). Plunge the asparagus into the ice water to stop the cooking. Drain thoroughly.

4. Toss the asparagus with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange on a sheet pan in a single layer. Roast until hot, 4 to 5 minutes. Toss the asparagus with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange on a sheet pan in a single layer. Roast until hot, 4 to 5 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette: Whisk the shallot, mustard, and sherry vinegar together in a small bowl. Continue whisking while you add the olive oil in a smooth, steady stream until thoroughly incorporated. Season with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette: Whisk the shallot, mustard, and sherry vinegar together in a small bowl. Continue whisking while you add the olive oil in a smooth, steady stream until thoroughly incorporated. Season with salt and pepper.

6. Remove the asparagus from the oven and toss with the vinaigrette and the 1 tablespoon shallots. Divide among four warmed plates. Arrange the cheese on and around the asparagus, sprinkle with the chervil sprigs, and serve. Remove the asparagus from the oven and toss with the vinaigrette and the 1 tablespoon shallots. Divide among four warmed plates. Arrange the cheese on and around the asparagus, sprinkle with the chervil sprigs, and serve.

EASY ASPARAGUS OPTIONSHere are three possible additions, to be used either alone or in combination.[image] Slice 4 large mushrooms as thin as you can. Toss them in the vinaigrette with the asparagus. Slice 4 large mushrooms as thin as you can. Toss them in the vinaigrette with the asparagus.[image] Drizzle Drizzle 1 1 teaspoons truffle oil over each plate of asparagus before adding the Gouda. teaspoons truffle oil over each plate of asparagus before adding the Gouda.[image] After garnishing with chervil, sprinkle 1 teaspoons edible flowers over each plate. After garnishing with chervil, sprinkle 1 teaspoons edible flowers over each plate.I particularly like chive flowers because their violet color makes a striking contrast against the green of the asparagus.

Curried Squash Fritters Delicata squash, with its pumpkin-like flavor, is an ideal candidate for fritters. Delicata rings have the added charm of resembling doughnuts. Unfortunately, their season is limited on the East Coast, and some people find peeling their nubbly skin a pain in the neck, so you may want to use b.u.t.ternut squash instead, more widely available and nearly as tasty. flavor, is an ideal candidate for fritters. Delicata rings have the added charm of resembling doughnuts. Unfortunately, their season is limited on the East Coast, and some people find peeling their nubbly skin a pain in the neck, so you may want to use b.u.t.ternut squash instead, more widely available and nearly as tasty.

MAKES 25 TO 30 FRITTERS AS AN APPETIZER.

2 to 2 pounds small delicata squashes or 1 b.u.t.ternut squash of the same weight cup unbleached all-purpose flour cup cornstarch 1 tablespoon curry powder 1 extra-large egg white, chilled cup cold beer or ice water 4 cups vegetable oil for deep-frying Kosher salt 1 lime, cut into quarters

1. Peel the squash. If using delicatas, you may want to use a paring knife instead of a vegetable peeler; don't worry about getting every bit of skin out of the squashes' ridged surfaces. Slice the delicatas crosswise inch thick. Use a paring knife to remove the seeds at the center of each ring. If using a b.u.t.ternut squash, split the squash lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Cut each half crosswise into -inch-thick slices. Peel the squash. If using delicatas, you may want to use a paring knife instead of a vegetable peeler; don't worry about getting every bit of skin out of the squashes' ridged surfaces. Slice the delicatas crosswise inch thick. Use a paring knife to remove the seeds at the center of each ring. If using a b.u.t.ternut squash, split the squash lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Cut each half crosswise into -inch-thick slices.

2. Mix the flour, cornstarch, and curry powder in a medium bowl. Beat the egg white with the beer in a small bowl. Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry until just mixed. If you overheat the batter, the fritter coating will be tough. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Mix the flour, cornstarch, and curry powder in a medium bowl. Beat the egg white with the beer in a small bowl. Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry until just mixed. If you overheat the batter, the fritter coating will be tough. Cover and refrigerate for 20 minutes.

3. Preheat the oven to 200F. Line a sheet pan with paper towels and put it in the oven. Preheat the oven to 200F. Line a sheet pan with paper towels and put it in the oven.

4. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep pot over medium heat to 350F. Use a deep-fry thermometer to check the temperature. Dip a slice of squash into the batter and then carefully lower it into the hot oil. Repeat until you have 6 slices of squash in the pot. The squashes will bob to the surface of the oil. Fry, turning once, until the batter is crisp and the squash is tender, about 2 minutes per side. As the fritters finish cooking, transfer them to the towel-lined sheet pan in the oven. Continue frying the squash slices in batches until they are all cooked. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep pot over medium heat to 350F. Use a deep-fry thermometer to check the temperature. Dip a slice of squash into the batter and then carefully lower it into the hot oil. Repeat until you have 6 slices of squash in the pot. The squashes will bob to the surface of the oil. Fry, turning once, until the batter is crisp and the squash is tender, about 2 minutes per side. As the fritters finish cooking, transfer them to the towel-lined sheet pan in the oven. Continue frying the squash slices in batches until they are all cooked.

5. Place the fritters on a warm platter, sprinkle with salt, and garnish with the lime wedges. Serve immediately. Place the fritters on a warm platter, sprinkle with salt, and garnish with the lime wedges. Serve immediately.

Braised Artichokes with Anchovies, Capers, and Lemon Zest Braising artichokes is easy. The most demanding aspect of the recipe is tr.i.m.m.i.n.g them beforehand, and with baby artichokes even that step is made simple because it's unnecessary to remove the chokes. Hot or cold, braised artichokes make a dramatic appetizer or side dish. This recipe is based on an Italian preparation I was once served by my friend and fellow restaurateur Charlie Robinson. The strong, acidic flavors of lemon and capers balance the artichokes' natural bitterness. Serve them as a warm accompaniment to Seared Lamb Steaks with Balsamic Vinegar and Red Pepper Marinade (page 278), Roast Leg of Lamb with Mustard Crumbs (page 282), or Braised Veal Shanks with Flageolets and Preserved Lemon (page 266). most demanding aspect of the recipe is tr.i.m.m.i.n.g them beforehand, and with baby artichokes even that step is made simple because it's unnecessary to remove the chokes. Hot or cold, braised artichokes make a dramatic appetizer or side dish. This recipe is based on an Italian preparation I was once served by my friend and fellow restaurateur Charlie Robinson. The strong, acidic flavors of lemon and capers balance the artichokes' natural bitterness. Serve them as a warm accompaniment to Seared Lamb Steaks with Balsamic Vinegar and Red Pepper Marinade (page 278), Roast Leg of Lamb with Mustard Crumbs (page 282), or Braised Veal Shanks with Flageolets and Preserved Lemon (page 266).

An appealing feature of braised artichokes is that the entire dish can be prepared several days in advance, only improving in flavor as the seasonings interact. Allow the artichokes to cool in the cooking liquid, then refrigerate. Any leftovers make a delicious addition to risotto or use them, along with their braising liquid, as the base of a simple sauce for pasta.

MAKES 4 APPETIZER SERVINGS.

2 pounds baby artichokes (about 24) or 4 larger artichokes (about pound each) 2 lemons, cut in half, for tr.i.m.m.i.n.g the artichokes cup extra virgin olive oil 1 small onion, chopped into -inch dice Kosher salt to taste 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped cup dry white wine 4 anchovies, rinsed and finely chopped 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest 6 sun-dried tomato halves, sliced into very thin strips 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 3 bay leaves 1 teaspoon dried oregano

1. Following the instructions on page 85, trim the artichokes, placing each one in acidulated water as you finish tr.i.m.m.i.n.g it. If using larger artichokes, cut them into quarters. Following the instructions on page 85, trim the artichokes, placing each one in acidulated water as you finish tr.i.m.m.i.n.g it. If using larger artichokes, cut them into quarters.

2. Combine the oil and onion in a large nonreactive saute pan over medium heat and saute the onion until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it releases its perfume, another minute or so; season with salt. Combine the oil and onion in a large nonreactive saute pan over medium heat and saute the onion until translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it releases its perfume, another minute or so; season with salt.

3. Drain the trimmed artichokes and add them, along with the remaining ingredients, to the pan. Add enough water to just cover the artichokes, about 1 cup. Season with salt. Cover and simmer until the artichokes are tender when pierced with a knife. Check after 20 minutes; remove the bay leaves and discard. Larger artichokes may take 30 to 40 minutes. Serve the artichokes drizzled with some of the braising juices. Drain the trimmed artichokes and add them, along with the remaining ingredients, to the pan. Add enough water to just cover the artichokes, about 1 cup. Season with salt. Cover and simmer until the artichokes are tender when pierced with a knife. Check after 20 minutes; remove the bay leaves and discard. Larger artichokes may take 30 to 40 minutes. Serve the artichokes drizzled with some of the braising juices.

HANDLING AND Tr.i.m.m.i.n.g ARTICHOKESI remember learning to eat artichokes as a child and thinking it was one of the strangest things I'd ever seen. remember learning to eat artichokes as a child and thinking it was one of the strangest things I'd ever seen. You put the leaf in your mouth and sc.r.a.pe the flesh off it with your teeth?! You put the leaf in your mouth and sc.r.a.pe the flesh off it with your teeth?! How bizarre, and what a strange flavor! Of course, as my daughter, Roxanne, demonstrates, dipping each leaf into a bowl of lemon b.u.t.ter is its own reward. When I grew older and learned that it was necessary to prune the crown, snap off the tough leaf ends, and trim the stem at the base of the artichoke before you could actually think about cooking it, the tr.i.m.m.i.n.g procedure seeming fitting in a Byzantine sort of way. You wouldn't expect that anything you ate by sc.r.a.ping it across your teeth would be prepared by a simple How bizarre, and what a strange flavor! Of course, as my daughter, Roxanne, demonstrates, dipping each leaf into a bowl of lemon b.u.t.ter is its own reward. When I grew older and learned that it was necessary to prune the crown, snap off the tough leaf ends, and trim the stem at the base of the artichoke before you could actually think about cooking it, the tr.i.m.m.i.n.g procedure seeming fitting in a Byzantine sort of way. You wouldn't expect that anything you ate by sc.r.a.ping it across your teeth would be prepared by a simple peeling, peeling, would you? would you?Tr.i.m.m.i.n.g artichokes involves several simple but necessary steps that appear to discard a major portion of the vegetable. Don't worry. You're not removing anything edible. The point of tr.i.m.m.i.n.g an artichoke is to make it easy to reach the edible parts. Baby artichokes, about 1 ounces each, require less tr.i.m.m.i.n.g than larger ones, which range from 8 ounces to well over a pound. Bigger is not necessarily better. Baby artichokes haven't had time to outgrow their youthful tenderness, and more of the vegetable is edible. The "choke, " the thistle-like center of the artichoke, is edible in a cooked baby artichoke; in an adult, it must be removed as part of the tr.i.m.m.i.n.g process.Artichokes will discolor easily during tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, from contact with a carbon-steel knife or from prolonged exposure to air. You can remedy this by using a knife with a stainless steel blade and rubbing the cut spots with a lemon half. Cut-and-rub is a habit worth cultivating. If you're not going to use the trimmed artichokes immediately, keep them covered with acidulated water (water containing lemon juice) until you need them. Two lemons will suffice for tr.i.m.m.i.n.g 2 pounds of artichokes (3 to 4 medium-sized ones or 24 babies). They'll yield enough juice for 2 quarts of acidulated water, with enough lemon left over for rubbing the cut surfaces as you trim.Cooked artichokes can be refrigerated in oil. After several days, the oil will take on the flavor of artichokes, a nice touch for vinaigrettes. Never reach into a jar of oil with your bare fingers to remove an artichoke (or any other vegetable). Bacteria from your skin will rapidly spoil the oil.TO TRIM LARGE ARTICHOKES1. Scrub 2 lemons, then cut them in half. Combine the juice of 1 of the lemons with 2 quarts cold water in a large bowl. Add the squeezed rinds to the water. Save the remaining lemon half to use during tr.i.m.m.i.n.g. Scrub 2 lemons, then cut them in half. Combine the juice of 1 of the lemons with 2 quarts cold water in a large bowl. Add the squeezed rinds to the water. Save the remaining lemon half to use during tr.i.m.m.i.n.g.2. One at a time, lay each artichoke on its side. Using a chef's knife, make a straight cut across the "crown, " or top of the artichoke. Don't be shy: The top quarter of the artichoke is mostly p.r.i.c.kly leaf ends, and you're not sacrificing anything by whacking it off. Depending on the size of the artichoke, this can amount to an inch or two. Rub the trimmed leaves with lemon. One at a time, lay each artichoke on its side. Using a chef's knife, make a straight cut across the "crown, " or top of the artichoke. Don't be shy: The top quarter of the artichoke is mostly p.r.i.c.kly leaf ends, and you're not sacrificing anything by whacking it off. Depending on the size of the artichoke, this can amount to an inch or two. Rub the trimmed leaves with lemon.3. Gently snap back the tough upper portion of each outer leaf, leaving the meaty part of the leaf still attached. Continue working around the artichoke until all the tough leaves have been snapped and the remaining leaves are pale green and tender. Gently snap back the tough upper portion of each outer leaf, leaving the meaty part of the leaf still attached. Continue working around the artichoke until all the tough leaves have been snapped and the remaining leaves are pale green and tender.4. Trim the tough skin around the base of the artichoke. Pare the skin off the stem and trim the tip (leave most of the stem intact). Rub the entire artichoke with the lemon. Trim the tough skin around the base of the artichoke. Pare the skin off the stem and trim the tip (leave most of the stem intact). Rub the entire artichoke with the lemon.5. If the recipe calls for artichoke quarters, cut each artichoke lengthwise into quarters and remove the choke. Rub the quarters all over with the lemon. If the recipe calls for artichoke quarters, cut each artichoke lengthwise into quarters and remove the choke. Rub the quarters all over with the lemon.6. As you finish each artichoke, place it in the bowl of lemon water. Trimmed artichokes can be stored, refrigerated, in acidulated water, for 24 hours. As you finish each artichoke, place it in the bowl of lemon water. Trimmed artichokes can be stored, refrigerated, in acidulated water, for 24 hours.TO TRIM BABY ARTICHOKES1. Prepare a bowl of acidulated water with 2 lemons as directed above. Prepare a bowl of acidulated water with 2 lemons as directed above.2. One at a time, trim inch off the crown of each artichoke and snap off any tough or scarred outer leaves, until only pale green leaves remain. Trim away the tip of the stem and peel the stem itself. As you finish each artichoke, rub the cut spots with the lemon half to prevent the flesh from turning brown or cover with acidulated water until ready to use. The choke of a baby artichoke is edible after cooking, so you don't need to remove it. One at a time, trim inch off the crown of each artichoke and snap off any tough or scarred outer leaves, until only pale green leaves remain. Trim away the tip of the stem and peel the stem itself. As you finish each artichoke, rub the cut spots with the lemon half to prevent the flesh from turning brown or cover with acidulated water until ready to use. The choke of a baby artichoke is edible after cooking, so you don't need to remove it.

Creamed Corn with Squash Blossoms and Scallions My paternal grandmother was a primly delicate little woman who declined to eat with her fingers. She made stripping the kernels off an ear of corn at one's plate without causing the kernels or cob to fly across the table appear to be simply one of those skills that any well-mannered Philadelphia lady was a.s.sumed to know. In her kitchen ( primly delicate little woman who declined to eat with her fingers. She made stripping the kernels off an ear of corn at one's plate without causing the kernels or cob to fly across the table appear to be simply one of those skills that any well-mannered Philadelphia lady was a.s.sumed to know. In her kitchen (not at the table) she taught me to rub the back of a knife against the stripped cob to extract the hidden "corn milk. " Her own creamed corn was an exercise in simplicity-corn, b.u.t.ter, cream, salt, and pepper. You don't have to really do too much more than that, especially with today's super-sweet varieties of corn, but if you have a garden with zucchini vines and their blossoms, or a vendor in your local farmers' market who will sell you the blossoms, then this recipe is a treat. at the table) she taught me to rub the back of a knife against the stripped cob to extract the hidden "corn milk. " Her own creamed corn was an exercise in simplicity-corn, b.u.t.ter, cream, salt, and pepper. You don't have to really do too much more than that, especially with today's super-sweet varieties of corn, but if you have a garden with zucchini vines and their blossoms, or a vendor in your local farmers' market who will sell you the blossoms, then this recipe is a treat.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

6 ears corn 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 small onion, finely diced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 16 squash blossoms, stamens removed cup creme fraiche 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil 2 to 3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced

1. Husk the corn and strip the kernels off the cobs. Rub the dull edge of a knife down the stripped cobs to extract the corn "milk." Set aside. Husk the corn and strip the kernels off the cobs. Rub the dull edge of a knife down the stripped cobs to extract the corn "milk." Set aside.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the corn kernels and corn milk. Cook until the corn is tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer 1 cup of the corn to a food processor and puree. Return the corn puree to the pan and stir everything together. Set aside. Heat 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the corn kernels and corn milk. Cook until the corn is tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer 1 cup of the corn to a food processor and puree. Return the corn puree to the pan and stir everything together. Set aside.

3. In a second large saute pan, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter over high heat. Add the squash blossoms, season with salt and pepper, and sear until wilted and golden on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the blossoms to the pan with the corn. In a second large saute pan, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter over high heat. Add the squash blossoms, season with salt and pepper, and sear until wilted and golden on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the blossoms to the pan with the corn.

4. Lower the heat to medium. Add the creme fraiche, basil, and scallions, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium heat until heated through. Serve immediately. Lower the heat to medium. Add the creme fraiche, basil, and scallions, season with salt and pepper, and cook over medium heat until heated through. Serve immediately.

Simple Favas with b.u.t.ter This is both the simplest and most luxurious recipe in this book. The fresh flavor of favas transcends their humble origin as a bean, but the effort involved in sh.e.l.ling and peeling them makes them the caviar of sh.e.l.l beans. As a result, a dish composed exclusively of favas is a rare luxury. One of the great joys of visiting the eastern Mediterranean is the popularity of fava bean puree, a gastronomic delight that is almost always too labor-intensive to think about doing here. Save this preparation for really good friends, to accompany a wonderful roasted meat dish like rack of spring lamb. Then again, you could just eat them all yourself. and most luxurious recipe in this book. The fresh flavor of favas transcends their humble origin as a bean, but the effort involved in sh.e.l.ling and peeling them makes them the caviar of sh.e.l.l beans. As a result, a dish composed exclusively of favas is a rare luxury. One of the great joys of visiting the eastern Mediterranean is the popularity of fava bean puree, a gastronomic delight that is almost always too labor-intensive to think about doing here. Save this preparation for really good friends, to accompany a wonderful roasted meat dish like rack of spring lamb. Then again, you could just eat them all yourself.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 to 2 cups sh.e.l.led fava beans, long-blanched (see Fava Notes, page 88) and peeled (about 3 pounds in the pod) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. When the foam subsides, add the favas, season with salt and pepper, and toss until heated through. Serve immediately.

FAVA NOTESFava beans are usually sold in their large plump pods. You can count on getting to cup of beans for each pound of fava pods. (If you get more, consider yourself lucky.) Unlike other beans, which have only to be sh.e.l.led, favas need to be blanched and then peeled, which makes them quite labor-intensive. The only exception to this is very young favas, no larger than, say, navy beans. Personally, I find it soothing to peel them while listening to tango or opera. The ubiquitous popularity of favas in Mediterranean countries can only be a sign of a saner, slower approach to life. Still, you needn't commit to listening to the entire production of Aida Aida to enjoy them. A small portion of favas, with their bright green color and distinctive flavor, makes a welcome component in vegetable stews or one of several ingredients in a pasta sauce. to enjoy them. A small portion of favas, with their bright green color and distinctive flavor, makes a welcome component in vegetable stews or one of several ingredients in a pasta sauce.THE SHORT BLANCH[image] Before you can peel favas, you have to shuck them. Snap the stem end off the pod and peel away the "thread" down one of the seams. You can then snap the pod open by running your thumb along the seam. Shovel the beans out of the open pod with your thumb. The individual beans will still be covered with a thick green membranous skin and need to be blanched to loosen the skin. Blanch the favas in salted boiling water for 1 minute, then plunge them into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. After draining the beans, you can either pinch the skin off with your fingers or use a paring knife. I pinch off a piece of the skin near the thick end of the bean, then squeeze from the other end so the fava pops out of the hole. After the membranes are removed, the favas are ready (at last!) to be treated like any other raw vegetable. Before you can peel favas, you have to shuck them. Snap the stem end off the pod and peel away the "thread" down one of the seams. You can then snap the pod open by running your thumb along the seam. Shovel the beans out of the open pod with your thumb. The individual beans will still be covered with a thick green membranous skin and need to be blanched to loosen the skin. Blanch the favas in salted boiling water for 1 minute, then plunge them into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. After draining the beans, you can either pinch the skin off with your fingers or use a paring knife. I pinch off a piece of the skin near the thick end of the bean, then squeeze from the other end so the fava pops out of the hole. After the membranes are removed, the favas are ready (at last!) to be treated like any other raw vegetable.After a few beans, you will become quite practiced at this technique. I suggest putting on a good tango CD. Your fingers will seem to work by themselves as you imagine yourself spinning across the floor in a Buenos Aires dance hall.THE LONG BLANCH[image] The problem with the traditional shuck-blanch-peel method is that afterward you've still got to cook them, which means another blanching or braising or whatever. I've found that you can save yourself a step if you extend the blanching time-in other words, you precook them in their membranes. Although you still need to peel them, they will require little additional cooking. Fava beans vary in size, and large ones take longer to cook than small ones. Let them boil for 3 minutes, then scoop one out of the water, peel it, and taste. If it no longer tastes raw, they're done. Plunge them into ice water, then drain and peel. If they're not done, let them cook for another 30 seconds and try again. The problem with the traditional shuck-blanch-peel method is that afterward you've still got to cook them, which means another blanching or braising or whatever. I've found that you can save yourself a step if you extend the blanching time-in other words, you precook them in their membranes. Although you still need to peel them, they will require little additional cooking. Fava beans vary in size, and large ones take longer to cook than small ones. Let them boil for 3 minutes, then scoop one out of the water, peel it, and taste. If it no longer tastes raw, they're done. Plunge them into ice water, then drain and peel. If they're not done, let them cook for another 30 seconds and try again.I use the long-blanch method 90 percent of the time when I'm cooking favas. If I'm going to add them to a dish that will then continue to braise for another 8 to 10 minutes, I use the short blanch.

Favas and Fiddleheads with Garlic and Pancetta This is a pretty dish that not only tastes good but, with two shades of intense green, seems just the ticket for celebrating the springtime arrival of local greens, especially fiddleheads from New Hampshire and Maine. After relying for several months on root vegetables and imported greens, I can't wait to begin putting fresh local produce back on the table. The availability of fiddleheads, bright green curls of baby fern, limited to only a few weeks in late spring and early summer, makes this a once-a-year combination. The earthy, fecund flavor of fiddleheads takes well to the meaty taste of pancetta. It seemed natural to me to mix them with favas (even if they are from California), another item commonly paired in Italy with pancetta or prosciutto. that not only tastes good but, with two shades of intense green, seems just the ticket for celebrating the springtime arrival of local greens, especially fiddleheads from New Hampshire and Maine. After relying for several months on root vegetables and imported greens, I can't wait to begin putting fresh local produce back on the table. The availability of fiddleheads, bright green curls of baby fern, limited to only a few weeks in late spring and early summer, makes this a once-a-year combination. The earthy, fecund flavor of fiddleheads takes well to the meaty taste of pancetta. It seemed natural to me to mix them with favas (even if they are from California), another item commonly paired in Italy with pancetta or prosciutto.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

pound fiddlehead ferns, trimmed of any split, broken, or dirty stems Kosher salt 2 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, cut into -inch pieces 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 cup sh.e.l.led fava beans, long-blanched (see Fava Notes, page 88) and peeled (about 2 pounds in the pod) Freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Drop the fiddleheads into a bowl of room-temperature water. Swirl with your hand to remove the brown papery parts. Drop the fiddleheads into a bowl of room-temperature water. Swirl with your hand to remove the brown papery parts.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. While it's heating, prepare a bowl of ice water. Add the fiddleheads to the boiling water and blanch until tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge the fiddleheads into the ice water to stop the cooking; drain thoroughly. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. While it's heating, prepare a bowl of ice water. Add the fiddleheads to the boiling water and blanch until tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge the fiddleheads into the ice water to stop the cooking; drain thoroughly.

3. Heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until it begins to render its fat and get crispy, about 4 minutes. Add the olive oil and garlic. Cook until the garlic is aromatic, just a minute. (If it starts to sizzle as soon as it hits the pan, lower the heat so it doesn't burn.) Add the favas and fiddleheads, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they're heated through. Drizzle with the lemon juice and serve immediately. Heat a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until it begins to render its fat and get crispy, about 4 minutes. Add the olive oil and garlic. Cook until the garlic is aromatic, just a minute. (If it starts to sizzle as soon as it hits the pan, lower the heat so it doesn't burn.) Add the favas and fiddleheads, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they're heated through. Drizzle with the lemon juice and serve immediately.

Warm Spring Vegetable Salad with Favas, Green Beans, Peas, and Radicchio This dish builds on one of my favorite Italian vegetable combinations, a warm salad of radicchio and blanched peas. I've simply taken it several steps further by adding two other spring arrivals, favas and thin green beans. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and blanch the vegetables in sequence, transferring them to a bowl of ice water as they finish cooking. The salad is dressed with a cream and lemon vinaigrette, which may sound unusual but is a great match with the vegetables. Please don't skip the favas-they add a wonderful element in both taste and texture. You can cut down on serving-day preparation time by blanching the vegetables a day ahead. Refrigerate in resealable plastic bags, then a.s.semble the salad just before serving. of my favorite Italian vegetable combinations, a warm salad of radicchio and blanched peas. I've simply taken it several steps further by adding two other spring arrivals, favas and thin green beans. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and blanch the vegetables in sequence, transferring them to a bowl of ice water as they finish cooking. The salad is dressed with a cream and lemon vinaigrette, which may sound unusual but is a great match with the vegetables. Please don't skip the favas-they add a wonderful element in both taste and texture. You can cut down on serving-day preparation time by blanching the vegetables a day ahead. Refrigerate in resealable plastic bags, then a.s.semble the salad just before serving.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

cup extra virgin olive oil 1 large red onion (about pound), sliced inch thick 2 large heads radicchio, washed, dried, cored, and cut crosswise into -inch-wide strips Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper pound thin green beans, trimmed and blanched in boiling salted water until just cooked, about 4 minutes pound fresh peas, sh.e.l.led and blanched in boiling salted water until just cooked, 1 to 3 minutes, depending on their size 1 to 2 cups sh.e.l.led fava beans, long-blanched (see Fava Notes, page 88), and peeled (about 3 pounds in the pod) cup coa.r.s.ely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 3 to 4 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice cup light cream

1. Heat cup of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the radicchio, and sear until browned. Season with salt and pepper and cook for 4 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the green beans, peas, and favas, and cook until just heated through. Season with salt and pepper and add the parsley and thyme. Remove from the heat and arrange on a platter. Heat cup of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the radicchio, and sear until browned. Season with salt and pepper and cook for 4 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the green beans, peas, and favas, and cook until just heated through. Season with salt and pepper and add the parsley and thyme. Remove from the heat and arrange on a platter.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the rosemary, lemon zest, 3 tablespoons lemon juice (if you like tart vinaigrettes, use more), and the remaining cup olive oil. Whisk in the cream. Season with salt and pepper. In a medium bowl, whisk together the rosemary, lemon zest, 3 tablespoons lemon juice (if you like tart vinaigrettes, use more), and the remaining cup olive oil. Whisk in the cream. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the vegetables and serve. (If you're going to have leftovers, dress only the portion you are serving, and store the remaining vegetables and vinaigrette separately in the refrigerator.) Serve at room temperature. Drizzle the vinaigrette over the vegetables and serve. (If you're going to have leftovers, dress only the portion you are serving, and store the remaining vegetables and vinaigrette separately in the refrigerator.) Serve at room temperature.

Fiery Garlicky Greens I can't tell whether my taste can't tell whether my taste buds have become desensitized or broccoli rabe has become milder over the years. My first taste of broccoli rabe more than twenty-five years ago struck me as both wonderful and shockingly bitter. I still love it, but it no longer seems as strong. I recently came across a recipe written some ten years ago advising readers to blanch broccoli rabe for a full five minutes in order to remove the bitterness. When my husband cooks it, he often skips the blanching altogether or simply braises the rabe in a covered pan with a little water for a couple of minutes. By the time the rabe has finished cooking, the water's gone-and the rabe tastes fine. buds have become desensitized or broccoli rabe has become milder over the years. My first taste of broccoli rabe more than twenty-five years ago struck me as both wonderful and shockingly bitter. I still love it, but it no longer seems as strong. I recently came across a recipe written some ten years ago advising readers to blanch broccoli rabe for a full five minutes in order to remove the bitterness. When my husband cooks it, he often skips the blanching altogether or simply braises the rabe in a covered pan with a little water for a couple of minutes. By the time the rabe has finished cooking, the water's gone-and the rabe tastes fine.

The traditional matches for broccoli rabe include raisins, pine nuts, garlic, and hot red pepper flakes. In this recipe, I've paired it with other sharp greens that can stand up to hot red pepper flakes. The greens are delicious served cold as well as hot, so they make a great picnic dish.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

Kosher salt 1 pounds broccoli rabe, washed and trimmed of tough or split stems cup extra virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, sliced paper-thin pound chicory, washed and chopped crosswise into 2-inch sections pound arugula, washed to teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

DO AHEAD: The broccoli rabe can be blanched ahead of time. Just be sure to plunge it into cold water to stop the cooking, then drain and refrigerate until ready to use. The broccoli rabe can be blanched ahead of time. Just be sure to plunge it into cold water to stop the cooking, then drain and refrigerate until ready to use.

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the broccoli rabe for 3 minutes, then plunge it immediately into an ice bath to stop the cooking. Drain and set aside. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the broccoli rabe for 3 minutes, then plunge it immediately into an ice bath to stop the cooking. Drain and set aside.

2. Combine the olive oil and garlic in a large saute pan over medium-low heat and cook until the garlic is just golden around the edges, 8 to 10 minutes. Do not let the garlic burn. Remove the garlic from the pan and set it aside. Combine the olive oil and garlic in a large saute pan over medium-low heat and cook until the garlic is just golden around the edges, 8 to 10 minutes. Do not let the garlic burn. Remove the garlic from the pan and set it aside.

3. Increase the heat to high, add the broccoli rabe and chicory, and cook until the chicory has wilted. Add the arugula, season with salt, and add red pepper flakes to taste. Cook until the arugula wilts, stirring frequently. It will only take a minute or two, so don't take your eye off the pan, or the arugula will overcook. Return the garlic to the pan, stir, and serve immediately. Increase the heat to high, add the broccoli rabe and chicory, and cook until the chicory has wilted. Add the arugula, season with salt, and add red pepper flakes to taste. Cook until the arugula wilts, stirring frequently. It will only take a minute or two, so don't take your eye off the pan, or the arugula will overcook. Return the garlic to the pan, stir, and serve immediately.

Leek, Artichoke, and Fennel Strudel This versatile phyllo pastry roll is stuffed with an aromatic combination of leeks, artichokes, fennel, potatoes, and goat cheese. With phyllo, an amateur can look like a professional, and the final dish is adaptable to however you want to serve it. The roll of strudel can be cut into portions appropriate for side dishes for four or an entree for two. is stuffed with an aromatic combination of leeks, artichokes, fennel, potatoes, and goat cheese. With phyllo, an amateur can look like a professional, and the final dish is adaptable to however you want to serve it. The roll of strudel can be cut into portions appropriate for side dishes for four or an entree for two.

You can prepare as much or as little of this dish ahead as you wish, short of the final baking. You can cook the vegetables a day ahead and then a.s.semble the strudel before baking. The strudel can even be completely a.s.sembled and refrigerated overnight until ready to bake.

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS OR 2 ENTReE SERVINGS.

pound Red Bliss potatoes, scrubbed Kosher salt cup extra virgin olive oil 2 large leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, sliced inch thick crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit 2 small fennel bulbs, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, cut lengthwise in half, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise Freshly ground black pepper pound trimmed baby artichokes (about 1 pounds, untrimmed; see page 85), cut into quarters (if baby artichokes are unavailable, subst.i.tute a 9-ounce package frozen artichoke hearts, thawed) 6 small or 4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped teaspoon fennel seeds teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary cup dry white wine cup water 1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice About 2 ounces ( cup) freshly grated Parmesan About 5 ounces (1 cup) crumbled feta cheese 8 sheets phyllo dough stick unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted

1. Chop the potatoes into -inch dice. Put into a small pot, add cold water to cover by 1 inch, and season with salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and let cool. Chop the potatoes into -inch dice. Put into a small pot, add cold water to cover by 1 inch, and season with salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and let cool.

2. While the potatoes are cooking, heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and fennel and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes until they begin to get tender. Add the artichokes, garlic, fennel seeds, coriander, thyme, and rosemary and cook until the leeks and fennel are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. (If using frozen artichoke hearts, wait to add them until the next step.) While the potatoes are cooking, heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the leeks and fennel and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes until they begin to get tender. Add the artichokes, garlic, fennel seeds, coriander, thyme, and rosemary and cook until the leeks and fennel are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. (If using frozen artichoke hearts, wait to add them until the next step.) 3. Add the wine and water. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the artichokes are tender and the liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Add the potatoes and toss well. Let cool. Add the wine and water. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the artichokes are tender and the liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Add the potatoes and toss well. Let cool.

4. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

5. Add the parsley, lemon juice, Parmesan, and feta cheese to the vegetables and toss well. Taste for seasoning and adjust as necessary. Add the parsley, lemon juice, Parmesan, and feta cheese to the vegetables and toss well. Taste for seasoning and adjust as necessary.

6. Lay a sheet of phyllo dough out on the counter with a long edge toward you. Brush with a thin coat of melted b.u.t.ter. Carefully position a second sheet of phyllo atop the first and brush it with a teaspoon of melted b.u.t.ter. Continue until you have a stack of 4 phyllo sheets. Arrange half of the vegetables in a narrow mound running along the bottom edge of the phyllo stack. Roll up tightly. Brush the log with 1 teaspoon b.u.t.ter. Repeat to make a second log. Lay a sheet of phyllo dough out on the counter with a long edge toward you. Brush with a thin coat of melted b.u.t.ter. Carefully position a second sheet of phyllo atop the first and brush it with a teaspoon of melted b.u.t.ter. Continue until you have a stack of 4 phyllo sheets. Arrange half of the vegetables in a narrow mound running along the bottom edge of the phyllo stack. Roll up tightly. Brush the log with 1 teaspoon b.u.t.ter. Repeat to make a second log.

7. Trim the ends of the logs, then cut each log into 4 pieces. Set on a b.u.t.tered baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, about 45 minutes. Trim the ends of the logs, then cut each log into 4 pieces. Set on a b.u.t.tered baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, about 45 minutes.

8. Arrange on a platter, or place 2 pieces on each of four warm plates. Arrange on a platter, or place 2 pieces on each of four warm plates.

NOTE: Frozen artichoke hearts can be subst.i.tuted for fresh baby artichokes if the latter are unavailable. Do not use marinated artichokes (the kind that come in a jar)-their taste is too sharp. Add the artichokes in Step 3, after most of the water has evaporated. Since frozen artichoke hearts are already cooked, they only need to be in the pan long enough to warm. Allow the rest of the liquid to evaporate and continue with the recipe. Frozen artichoke hearts can be subst.i.tuted for fresh baby artichokes if the latter are unavailable. Do not use marinated artichokes (the kind that come in a jar)-their taste is too sharp. Add the artichokes in Step 3, after most of the water has evaporated. Since frozen artichoke hearts are already cooked, they only need to be in the pan long enough to warm. Allow the rest of the liquid to evaporate and continue with the recipe.

Braised Escarole with Parmesan Crust Escarole intimidates people. People who think nothing of sauteing spinach or Swiss chard shy away from it. Its coa.r.s.e fibrous leaves seem just too strange to mess with, which is unfortunate, because braising melts the plant's fibers into a silky, spinach-like consistency. I particularly like to pair braised escarole with bold-flavored meat dishes, like Roasted Marinated Long Island Duck with Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce (page 316) or Roast Leg of Lamb with Mustard Crumbs (page 282). think nothing of sauteing spinach or Swiss chard shy away from it. Its coa.r.s.e fibrous leaves seem just too strange to mess with, which is unfortunate, because braising melts the plant's fibers into a silky, spinach-like consistency. I particularly like to pair braised escarole with bold-flavored meat dishes, like Roasted Marinated Long Island Duck with Green Olive and Balsamic Vinegar Sauce (page 316) or Roast Leg of Lamb with Mustard Crumbs (page 282).

MAKES 4 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS.

1 large head escarole cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 medium white onion, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary 2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 1 cup Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth cup dry white wine cup freshly grated Parmesan cup fresh bread crumbs

DO AHEAD: The escarole can be braised several days ahead and refrigerated until you are ready to serve it, which can be quite convenient if you're serving it with something else that requires your attention. If braising ahead, omit the crust of cheese and bread crumbs. To reheat, first bring it to room temperature, then put it in a 375F oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, top with the crust ingredients, and return to the oven until the crust browns, about 15 minutes. The escarole can be braised several days ahead and refrigerated until you are ready to serve it, which can be quite convenient if you're serving it with something else that requires your attention. If braising ahead, omit the crust of cheese and bread crumbs. To reheat, first bring it to room temperature, then put it in a 375F oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, top with the crust ingredients, and return to the oven until the crust browns, about 15 minutes.

1. Preheat oven to 325F. Preheat oven to 325F.

2. Cut the escarole lengthwise into quarters, wash thoroughly (see box), and pat completely dry. Cut the escarole lengthwise into quarters, wash thoroughly (see box), and pat completely dry.