I'm Just Here For The Food Part 12

So we know what we're looking for: flavorful meat containing a good bit of connective tissue and a moderate level of fat. Take a beef round roast. It has moisture and some connective tissue, but very little fat, which is why it makes for a really crummy pot roast.

Now the vessel is providing a snugger fit, but there's still not much in the way of food/liquid contact.

meat and juices inside foil pouch

Because it's tightly sealed in foil, the meat is completely surrounded by the liquid (remember, the smaller the amount of concentrated liquid the better). The vessel is still necessary because no matter how good you are at metallurgical origami, the packet is going to leak.

Tenderloin and sirloin are even worse when cooked long, low, and wet. Besides, both are relatively tender, so are better suited to a dry method of cooking. Now consider beef short ribs. They've got it all: flavor, connective tissue, and enough fat to make up for the moisture lost during long cooking. They've also got bones, which bring flavor and even more connective tissue to the party. Short ribs are ideal for braising because they are durable enough to stand up to multiple-stage cooking.

Master Profile: Braising Heat type: moist moist

Mode of transmission: 15:85 percent sear to sub-simmer ratio 15:85 percent sear to sub-simmer ratio Rate of transmission: One of the slowest methods around One of the slowest methods around Common transmitters: heavy pans (sear part) and flavorful liquids (simmer part) heavy pans (sear part) and flavorful liquids (simmer part) Temperature range: 140 to 210 F 140 to 210 F Target food characteristics: large cuts of meat that are high in connective tissue large cuts of meat that are high in connective tissue Non-culinary use: tempering steel tempering steelLamb "Pot Roast"

Pot roast is the poster child for braising. I know of no other dish that goes through such a spectacular metamorphosis during cooking, or that comforts so completely after. (I'm getting all teary-eyed just thinking about it.) Although I have nothing against beef pot roast, lamb brings more meat for less cash.

Application: Searing, then BraisingPreheat the oven to 300 F. Season the flour with salt and pepper. Lightly season the chops with salt and pepper and dredge them in the flour. Shake off any excess. Heat the braising pan over medium heat and add the oil. Sear the chops on all sides until browned; you may need to work in 2 batches to avoid overcrowding the pan (overcrowding eliminates the s.p.a.ce needed for steam to escape-that sizzling noise you hear-and your food is then steamed and no crust forms). As the chops brown remove them to a plate. Add the garlic and shallots to the pan. Saute until fragrant, then add the onions, carrots, celery, and fennel. Stir the vegetables around, then add the wine to deglaze the pan, sc.r.a.ping with a wooden spoon. All those browned pieces from the bottom of the pan will "leap" up and cling to the vegetables. Add the tomato paste, then pour in the stock and add the tomatoes and a few sprigs of rosemary (I leave it whole so I can remove it later; I don't like to eat the rosemary). Sprinkle an even layer of the dredging flour, about cup, over the vegetables; this will help to thicken the sauce. Lay the chops on top, put the lid on the pan, and cook in the oven for 2 hours. Chill the meat, in the pan, overnight in the refrigerator, then cook for 1 hour in a 300 F oven. (Any collagen left will come leaping out.) Once finished, allow the chops to rest in the covered pan for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the chops to a plate and loosely cover with foil. Use a ladle to de-fat the sauce; it should be thinner than gravy but thicker than jus jus. If you like a thicker sauce, puree it together with the vegetables.Yield: 4 servingsSoftware: 2 cups flour 2 cups flour Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 4 lamb shoulder chops cup olive oil 2 heaping tablespoons chopped garlic cup chopped shallots 2 cups diced onions 1 cup diced carrots 1 cup diced celery 1 cup diced fennel (optional, but it gives it a Mediterranean flavor) 1 cup red wine (remember: if you wouldn't drink it, why eat it?) 2 tablespoons tomato paste 3 cups beef stock 4 plum tomatoes, seeded and diced Fresh rosemary sprigs Hardware: Large braising pan with lid Large braising pan with lid Wooden spoon Tongs Ladle Stick blender if you want to puree the sauce

Smoked and Braised Beef Short Ribs I start this cooking procedure with smoke. Since the connective tissue of the ribs doesn't really start dissolving until it reaches 120-130 F, there's no reason to cook these ribs in liquid the entire time. Short ribs are great simply seared and simmered, but the addition of smoke results in a dish that is far more than the sum of its parts.

Application: BraisingMake a brine. Bring three cups of the beer, the sugar, and the cup of salt to a boil in a heavy pot. Cook until all the solids are dissolved and then pour into the 2-gallon container. Add the remaining beer and the ice water to cool the brine below 40 F (this should be immediate if the beer and water were chilled). Liberally coat the ribs with salt and submerge them in the brine. Store, refrigerated, for at least 24 hours or up to 3 days. Bring three cups of the beer, the sugar, and the cup of salt to a boil in a heavy pot. Cook until all the solids are dissolved and then pour into the 2-gallon container. Add the remaining beer and the ice water to cool the brine below 40 F (this should be immediate if the beer and water were chilled). Liberally coat the ribs with salt and submerge them in the brine. Store, refrigerated, for at least 24 hours or up to 3 days.Smoke the ribs. Remove the ribs from the brine, rinse thoroughly, and pat dry. Spread a handful of charcoal on the far side of your grill grate and light. When the coals are white and ashy, place the hickory chips in the pie pan and set this on top of the coals. Replace the cooking grate and place the ribs on the opposite side of the grill. Close the lid and allow the ribs to smoke for 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from grill and proceed to the braising. Remove the ribs from the brine, rinse thoroughly, and pat dry. Spread a handful of charcoal on the far side of your grill grate and light. When the coals are white and ashy, place the hickory chips in the pie pan and set this on top of the coals. Replace the cooking grate and place the ribs on the opposite side of the grill. Close the lid and allow the ribs to smoke for 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from grill and proceed to the braising.Braise the ribs. Preheat the oven to 300 F. Set the roasting pan on the cook top over a medium high flame and add just enough oil to lightly coat the vegetables. Add the carrots, onion, and celery and allow them to caramelize. Deglaze the pan with the wine; using the wooden spoon to sc.r.a.pe up any delicious bits from the bottom of the pan. Set the ribs on top the vegetables and add enough stock to come three-quarters up the side of the roasting pan. Bring the liquid to a boil and very carefully seal the pan with foil. Place in the oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 300 F. Set the roasting pan on the cook top over a medium high flame and add just enough oil to lightly coat the vegetables. Add the carrots, onion, and celery and allow them to caramelize. Deglaze the pan with the wine; using the wooden spoon to sc.r.a.pe up any delicious bits from the bottom of the pan. Set the ribs on top the vegetables and add enough stock to come three-quarters up the side of the roasting pan. Bring the liquid to a boil and very carefully seal the pan with foil. Place in the oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes.Remove from the oven to the cook top and let rest, covered, for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and carefully pull the bones out of the meat-they are tapered, so just grab the wider end and gently pull. Trim away the tissue that used to surround the bones. Set the meat aside and strain the stock into a sauce pan; discard the vegetables. Bring the stock to a boil and let it reduce in volume by half. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper (it probably won't need salt due to the brine). Plate the beef and serve with the sauce.Yield: 4 servingsSoftware: For the brine: For the brine: gallon dark beer, chilled (choose your favorite) 1 pound brown sugar 1 cup kosher salt plus enough to rub on the ribs 1 quart ice water 2 whole short ribs (about 5 pounds) 2 cups hickory wood chips, soaked in water Canola oil 1 cup diced carrots 1 cup diced onion 1 cup diced celery cup red wine 2 quarts beef stock Hardware: 2-gallon container 2-gallon container Heavy pot Paper towels Pie pan Roasting pan Wooden spoon Aluminum foil Strainer Sauce pan

WHEN RESTING MEAT SORTA BECOMES BRAISING.

Sear a piece of relatively flat meat, say a nice juicy sirloin, over really high heat, quickly remove it from the heat, and wrap it tightly in two layers of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Then wrap that in an insulator, like a kitchen towel, and set the whole package aside for half an hour on the kitchen counter. Since the foil traps in moisture, and the foil/towel combo traps heat, you have actually added a very effective braising step.The residual heat may not be enough to actually cook the meat, but pulling it off the heat early and allowing it to finish in this manner can result in a much more tender piece of meat. And the foil catches any and all juices that might leak out of the meat. Au jus, anyone?

No-Backyard Baby Back Ribs I love baby back ribs because they deliver flavor and finger-lickin' goodness with little fuss and even less time. I have friends who smoke their 'back ribs for hours and hours and then wonder why they're tough. The reason is connective tissue, lots of it, and no amount of dry heat is going to dissolve that. If you can't imagine baby back ribs without smoke, however, go ahead and smoke them for an hour or so before the braising step (see Smoked and Braised Short Ribs Smoked and Braised Short Ribs). Personally I don't bother. I often wear rubber gloves at the table and eat these ribs over a large mixing bowl. It isn't pretty.

Application: Braising, then BroilingRinse the ribs and pat dry with paper towels. Place on a sheet of extra-wide, heavy-duty aluminum foil. (The foil should be 4 inches longer than the ribs on either end.) Season liberally on both sides with the salt and Rub Number 9.Turn the ribs meat-side-down and tightly seal according to the ill.u.s.trations at right.Place the packet in the roasting pan and refrigerate for 6 to 12 hours, turning the sealed packet over once.Preheat oven to 350 F.Remove the packet from the refrigerator and unroll one end, shaping the foil upward like a funnel. Pour in the orange juice and the Margarita mix. Reseal the foil packet and see-saw it back and forth a couple of times to evenly distribute the liquid inside.Return the packet to the pan and place the pan in the middle of the oven. After 1 hour, reduce temperature to 250 F and cook until tender, approximately 2 hours.Remove the pan from the oven, unroll one end of the packet, carefully drain all juice into a saucier saucier or small saucepan, and add the honey, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, espresso powder, and cayenne. or small saucepan, and add the honey, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, espresso powder, and cayenne.Bring the mixture to a boil, whisking frequently until reduced to a glaze that coats a spoon. Remove the pan from heat.Move oven rack to the next-to-the-top position and turn on the broiler (use the high setting if you have a choice).Remove the slab from the foil packet and cut it into four equal sections (I use kitchen shears for this). Place ribs on the broiling pan, meat side up, brush with the glaze, and broil for 2 to 3 minutes. Reglaze and repeat until the ribs are a dark mahogany color. Flip the ribs bone side up, glaze, and broil a minute longer.Remove and allow to cool a couple of minutes before serving, preferably with potato salad or copious amounts of coleslaw.Yield: 1 to 3 servings, depending on who's doing the eatingNote: For one rack of ribs, to cup of rub will be sufficient. The ratio of ingredients for Rub Number 9 is: 5 parts brown sugar, 3 parts chile powder, 1 part garlic powder, part ground thyme, part cayenne, and part allspice. A part can be any amount-a tablespoon, for example-depending on how much is needed. For one rack of ribs, to cup of rub will be sufficient. The ratio of ingredients for Rub Number 9 is: 5 parts brown sugar, 3 parts chile powder, 1 part garlic powder, part ground thyme, part cayenne, and part allspice. A part can be any amount-a tablespoon, for example-depending on how much is needed.Software: 1 full rack/slab baby back ribs 1 full rack/slab baby back ribs Kosher salt Rub Number 9 (see Note Note) cup orange juice (not fresh squeezed) cup prepared Margarita mix cup honey cup ketchup 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon espresso powder or instant coffee (freeze-dried, not actual grounds) teaspoon cayenne pepper Hardware: Paper towels Paper towels Extra-wide, heavy-duty aluminum foil Shallow roasting pan Saucier or small sauce pan or small sauce pan Kitchen shears Broiler pan

Chicken Piccata Piccata is Italian for "sharp" and refers to the bright snappy flavor of this cla.s.sic one-pan dish. Although there are thousands of ways to execute a "piccata," this recipe sets out some fair guidelines. Here, braising has less to do with tenderizing and more to do with sauce construction. The simmer stage accomplishes three things: it gently completes the cooking of the chicken, marries the flavors of the aromatics and the capers, and gelatinizes the starch in the flour, thus thickening the liquid so that it clings to the meat. Properly executed, there shouldn't be much sauce left in the pan. is Italian for "sharp" and refers to the bright snappy flavor of this cla.s.sic one-pan dish. Although there are thousands of ways to execute a "piccata," this recipe sets out some fair guidelines. Here, braising has less to do with tenderizing and more to do with sauce construction. The simmer stage accomplishes three things: it gently completes the cooking of the chicken, marries the flavors of the aromatics and the capers, and gelatinizes the starch in the flour, thus thickening the liquid so that it clings to the meat. Properly executed, there shouldn't be much sauce left in the pan.

Application: Pan-BraisePlace the chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, one at a time, on a sheet of plastic wrap; fold the wrap over to cover. Using the mallet, pound each breast to a uniform thickness of inch. Season the chicken liberally with the salt and pepper, dredge in the flour, shaking off any excess.In a heavy skillet just big enough to hold all the chicken, heat the oil and 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter. When the oil and b.u.t.ter stop sizzling, add the chicken and cook, turning once, until just brown on both sides. Remove the chicken to a plate. Pour off any grease from the pan and add the remaining tablespoon of b.u.t.ter.Add the onion to the skillet and saute until translucent. Add the garlic and the scallions and saute 1 more minute. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the flour over the vegetables and toss to combine.Deglaze the pan with vermouth and the lemon juice. Add the capers and toss to combine. Return the chicken to the pan, cover, and reduce heat to low, simmering until chicken is cooked through, about 4 minutes. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary, and serve on warm platter garnished with the parsley and lemon slices.Yield: 2 servingsSoftware: 2 boneless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, cut in 2 boneless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, cut in half Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Flour for dredging plus 1 teaspoon 2 tablespoons canola oil 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter yellow onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 6 scallions, chopped to cup sweet vermouth, sherry, or white wine Juice of 1 large lemon 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed and lightly crushed 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 lemon, sliced thinly Hardware: Plastic wrap Plastic wrap Smooth mallet or heavy sauce pot Container for dredging Large skillet or electric skillet with lid Tongs

Cube Steak a la Salisbury I originally called this a recipe for Salisbury steak. Although the flavors and textures involved are reminiscent of a Salisbury steak, as Dr. J.H. Salisbury (a nineteenth-century physician) reminded me when he came to me in a dream, Salisbury steak is always made with ground beef. Promoting the health virtues of ground beef was his raison d'etre, after all.

These steaks are browned in a combination of b.u.t.ter and oil. This will give you the flavor of b.u.t.ter while increasing the smoke point, allowing you to cook at a higher temperature than with b.u.t.ter alone.

Application: Pan-BraisePreheat the oven to 275 F. Lightly season the steaks and the dredging flour with the salt and pepper, then dredge the steaks in the flour and shake off any excess.Add 1 tablespoon each of the b.u.t.ter and oil to a hot saute pan. Brown the steaks, two at a time, adding more b.u.t.ter and oil as needed, about 4 minutes per side. Remove the steaks to a plate.Pour off any grease from the pan and add the remaining b.u.t.ter. Add the onion, garlic, and mushrooms to the pan and saute until nicely caramelized, then deglaze the pan with the wine. Mix in the Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and stock, and stir to combine. Return the steaks to the pan, cover, and cook in the oven for 25 minutes.Yield: 4 servingsSoftware: 4 ( pound) beef cube steaks 4 ( pound) beef cube steaks Flour for dredging Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons canola oil medium onion, sliced Lyonnaise-style 2 tablespoons minced garlic pound brown mushrooms, thinly sliced (an egg slicer works well) cup red wine 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce tablespoon Dijon mustard cup chicken or beef stock Hardware: Dredge container Dredge container Ovenproof saute pan with lid Wooden spoon

Stewing

Cla.s.sically, a braise involves a big hunk of meat, a very small amount of liquid, low heat, and a covered vessel. A stew involves lots of pieces of meat that are completely submerged in liquid, cooked over low heat in a covered vessel. The cooking goal is identical as far as the meat is concerned: slow, moist heat that will dissolve collagen.

However, the liquid part of a stew is as important as the meat and whatever other chunks of vegetable may be present. In other words, a stew is half a soup, so seasoning isn't just about the meat.

Also, just about every stew recipe out there is thickened by starch somewhere along the line. Either the meat is dredged before searing, or flour is sprinkled over the a.s.sembled ingredients before it heads off to the oven. There's a chili recipe coming up in a few pages that gets its starch from dissolved corn chips.

And just so we're clear, I don't consider dairy-thickened soups (bisques and chowders) to be true stews . . . but that's just me.

WHY STARCH THICKENS.

When starch granules get hot and become saturated with liquid, they explode like popcorn. Then they get in the way of the liquid molecules, preventing them from pooling together. Voila: thickness! Different starches explode, or gelatinize, at different rates and different temperatures, but it happens just the same.

Beef Stroganoff The components of this stew aren't that different from those of a pan braise, but the size of the pieces, the starch, and the extra liquid necessitates a new step here: stirring. That's why I reach for my electric skillet. It gives me heat control and quick access.

Application: StewingOne hour before cooking, place the roast in the freezer. It will firm it up and make it easier to slice. Cut the meat into -inch strips. Season the meat and the flour liberally with the salt and pepper. Allow the meat to rest a few minutes so that the salt can pull a little moisture to the surface, then dredge in seasoned flour (see Note Note).Heat the electric skillet to its hottest temperature. When the thermostat light goes out add 1 tablespoon each of the b.u.t.ter and the oil. When the b.u.t.ter begins to foam, add just enough of the meat to barely cover the bottom of the skillet. Do not crowd the pan. Turn the strips until they're brown on all sides, then remove to a rack resting over a pan. Continue browning the meat in batches, adding more b.u.t.ter and oil as needed.When all of the meat has been browned, pour off any grease from the pan, add the remaining b.u.t.ter, then add the shallot, garlic, and mushrooms to the skillet and saute until brown. Using a shaker or sifter, sprinkle a couple of teaspoons of the seasoned flour over the top of the vegetables and toss to coat. Deglaze the skillet with the wine, using a spatula to sc.r.a.pe up any stubborn bits. Stir in the mustard and return the meat and any drippings to the skillet. Add enough beef stock to barely cover the meat. Drop the temperature to a simmer (between 180 and 200 F), and cover. Cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in sour cream and serve over wide egg noodles or rice.Yield: 4 servingsNote: Seasoned flour is typically a simple mixture of flour, salt, and pepper, but depending on the recipe, it may involve any number of different seasonings. What you're looking for when you taste-and you should get into the habit of tasting everything-is a subtle background of both salt and pepper. Seasoned flour is typically a simple mixture of flour, salt, and pepper, but depending on the recipe, it may involve any number of different seasonings. What you're looking for when you taste-and you should get into the habit of tasting everything-is a subtle background of both salt and pepper.Software: 2 pounds inexpensive beef roast, 2 pounds inexpensive beef roast, such as eye of round Flour for dredging (see Note Note) Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons canola oil 4 tablespoons minced shallot 1 tablespoons minced garlic pound brown mushrooms, thickly sliced (an egg slicer works well) cup red wine tablespoon Dijon mustard, blended into 2 tablespoons beef stock (so it will incorporate easier) 2 beef bouillon cubes dissolved in 2 to 2 cups beef stock 4 tablespoons sour cream Hardware: Container for dredging Container for dredging Electric skillet Rack and drip pan for resting Shaker or sifter Spatula Wooden spoon

Posole Posole can be prepared exactly 6,483 different ways but in order to be "posole," hominy must be present. What the heck is hominy anyway? Hominy, or nixtamal in Mexico, is maize (yes, that's just corn) that has been treated with a lye solution in order to loosen the outer seed coat or pericarp. The process also unlocks some of the protein content of the grain, making it available for fine folks like you and me. If you don't have a Crock-Pot, you can do all your browning in a Dutch oven, then cover it and stash it in a 200 F oven for several hours. Time is a major ingredient but it's nearly impossible to say exactly how much is required. It depends on the type of pork, the size of the pieces, and too many other variables to predict. It's done when your mouth says it's done.

Application: Braising/StewingHeat up one tablespoon of the vegetable oil in a 12-inch saute pan over medium-low heat. Then, add the onion, garlic, and a heavy pinch of kosher salt and cook until the onion is translucent. (We're not looking for color here so drop the heat if things start getting crispy.)When the bulb works are soft, transfer to the slow cooker. Crank the heat to high on the saute pan, then add the remaining oil. When the pan just starts to smoke, add the pork and brown on all sides. (It's tough to overstress the dramatic effect thorough browning has on a dish such as this one. Appearance and flavor will be lackl.u.s.ter without serious searage. I'm not saying you want to burn it but you want to come pretty close.)When the pork's good and ready toss it in the slow cooker with the hominy, chiles, beef stock, and oregano. Set the slow cooker to high and let it perc for 2 hours. Drop the heat to low and cook for another 2 to 3 hours, or until the meat is tender. Remove the ham hock, tear off whatever meat remains on it and add it back to the soup. Season with salt and pepper as needed. Serve the posole with the cilantro, cabbage, radishes, and lime wedges.Yield: 6 to 8 servingsPersonally, I'd sneak into the pantry and gnaw on it like a wild animal, but that's just me.

Software: 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 cups chopped onion 5 cloves garlic, minced 1 to 1 pound pork roast, trimmed and cubed 1 smoked ham hock 1 (28 ounce) can hominy, drained 2 dried chopped arbol or ancho chiles 1 quart beef stock 1 teaspoon dried oregano Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper For garnish: 1 small bunch cilantro 1 small bunch cilantro 1 cups thinly sliced cabbage 4 small radishes, thinly sliced 2 limes, quartered Hardware: Chef 's knife Chef 's knife Cutting board 12-inch saute pan Crock-Pot or other 4 to 6 quart electric slow cooker

Split Pea Soup The Crock-Pot and other slow cookers have had a resurgence in popularity of late, and with good reason: this is a great device for holding foods at a steady low temperature for hours at a time. This is my take on cla.s.sic split pea soup; the chipotle and the miso soup paste give it greater depth of flavor.

Application: SimmerCombine all the ingredients in the slow cooker and set it to high. Cook for 6 to 8 hours, or until the peas have softened. Remove the salt pork before serving. Really, that's it.Yield: 4 servings.Software: 18 ounces split peas 18 ounces split peas 1 finger-sized piece of salt pork 1 chipotle chile in adobo sauce 1 cups a.s.sorted aromatics, such as carrots, onions and celery, chopped 2 quarts chicken broth 1 tablespoons miso paste Hardware: Digital scale Digital scale 4 to 6 quart slow-cooker

Chili For me, chili has to be all about the chiles. Once you come to grips with this seemingly obvious fact, you'll be the king of chili.

Application: StewingSeason the beef with salt, pepper, and chile powder. Heat the saute pan, add some of the oil, and brown the beef, working in batches if necessary and removing the browned beef to a plate. In a heavy-bottom pot, sweat the onions and garlic in some of the oil until tender, but not browned. Add the remaining ingredients (except the beef) and simmer for 10 minutes. With a stick blender, puree the mixture, then add the beef to the pot. Cook over low heat (below a simmer) for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Taste and season with salt and pepper if necessary.This chili is really good as is, but if you cool it and store it for a day or two it's fantastic when reheated.Yield: about 2 quartsNote: As far as the chile powder is concerned, there are many types available on the market. I prefer ones that are a specific type of chile with nothing else added. Paul Prudhomme has a whole line of them. You can use a mild one or a hot one depending on what you like. As far as the chile powder is concerned, there are many types available on the market. I prefer ones that are a specific type of chile with nothing else added. Paul Prudhomme has a whole line of them. You can use a mild one or a hot one depending on what you like.To roast a pepper: Cut in half from top to bottom. You'll leave behind the core, seeds, and stem. Now you can go several routes: Cut in half from top to bottom. You'll leave behind the core, seeds, and stem. Now you can go several routes:1. Lay them skin side up on a pan and broil until the skin is totally blackened.2. Lay them skin side down on a hot grill until the skin is totally blackened.3. Using tongs, set or hold them over the open flame of your range until the skin is completely blackened (the pepper is left whole while blackening for this option).

Once blackened (they'll look burnt), put them in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap to steam. Once cool enough to handle, peel away the black skin.Software: 2 pounds chuck steak, cut into 2 pounds chuck steak, cut into -inch cubes Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon chile powder (see Note Note) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cups finely diced onion 4 cloves garlic 2 ancho chiles, split, seeds removed, and roughly chopped 2 California chiles, split, seeds removed, and roughly chopped 2 roasted red bell peppers (see Note) 1 chipotle chile in adobo (one chile, not one can) 4 ounces canned diced tomatoes cup beef stock cup delicious beer (I use Shiner Bock) Hardware: Saute pan Saute pan Medium-sized heavy-bottom pot Stick blender

Working under Pressure

The first pressure cooker, called the "ingester," was designed in 1679 by French physicist Denis Papin. It consisted of a gla.s.s container to hold the food and liquid that was sealed before being placed inside a metal container. Water was then used to fill the gap between the gla.s.s container and the metal vessel, and a metal top was screwed on. The entire device was then heated on a fire. To ensure that the cooker didn't explode, Papin included a safety valve to let out excess steam once the desired pressure had been reached. By varying the weight used to keep the safety valve in place, the pressure could easily be regulated. Measuring temperature, on the other hand, was not so easy. Daniel Fahrenheit and Anders Celsius invented their temperature scales after Papin had died. So Papin created his own way to check temperature. He had a depression in the top of the pressure cooker, into which he would place a drop of water. He then used a 3-foot pendulum, which swings in a period of about 1 second, to time how long it took for the drop to evaporate. Unfortunately, the ingester blew up a year later.

TARGET FOOD FOR PRESSURE.

Lamb shanksBeef oxtailsVeal shanksPork spare ribsPork shoulder (chunks)Hard vegetables, such as carrots, rutabagas, and beetsCollard greensMustard greens (mature)Swiss chardBeef brisketMuttonBrown riceBarley

In 1939, the first commercial pressure cooker (made by the National Pressure Cooker Company, known since 1953 as National Presto Industries) debuted in the United States at the New York World's Fair. The pressure cooker was put on the back burner during World War II, when many manufacturers had to turn their attention toward war efforts. But after the war ended, pressure cookers were a hot item.

Today's pressure cookers are both safe and efficient. The heat inside a pressure cooker creates steam, which expands, creating 15 pounds per square inch of pressure, which in turn raises the boiling point of liquid to 250 F. In this extreme heat, foods cook two-thirds faster than they would in boiling water.

All pressure cookers utilize a heavy pot or pan, a lid that locks, with an airtight seal and a pressure-control device. Noisy first-generation or jiggle-top cookers are reasonably priced but are problematic in that they lose a good deal of moisture via steam and require skillful handling. In modified first-generation cookers, instead of a weight there's a sophisticated spring-loaded valve, which means less moisture loss and a quieter ride. The second-generation cookers have a spring-loaded rod that maintains the pressure. They're quiet and work well, but are often expensive.

When you're out there shopping, look for a 6-quart cooker with double handles for safe moving. And pick it up-heavy is good. Remember that the first steam engine was based on a pressure cooker: it's a complex system, so be sure to read the manual.

The Chili Bet

Folks fuss over chili. True "red"-heads spend hours coaxing buckets of pricey and sometimes exotic groceries into alchemaic stews, which they give names like "mouth of h.e.l.l" and then enter into chili contests.

Some friends and I were sitting around a buddy's porch one afternoon bemoaning the silly seriousness of such endeavors and contemplating where it could lead (picture Texans on the set of Iron Chef Iron Chef, Colts drawn). Anyway, we sank into philosophy and came to the no-doubt accurate conclusion that the dish properly known as chili con carne chili con carne is essentially a utilitarian field dish most likely concocted by chuck masters on the Chisolm Trail, who needed to make use of really lousy cuts of beef. Another buddy put forth that if this were indeed the case, the criteria for judging a "true" chili would have to include grocery receipts, for economy would have to be a factor. is essentially a utilitarian field dish most likely concocted by chuck masters on the Chisolm Trail, who needed to make use of really lousy cuts of beef. Another buddy put forth that if this were indeed the case, the criteria for judging a "true" chili would have to include grocery receipts, for economy would have to be a factor.

There was a moment's silence as we all considered what must be done. We had to hold a cheap-chili cook-off. I looked at my watch: 2:30 in the afternoon. We agreed to meet back on the very same porch at 7:00 P.M., which meant there wasn't a moment to lose.

3:00 P.M.

I ran home and checked the pantry and fridge. Not a shred of meat in the house that wasn't frozen into blocks-no time for even a speed thaw (you'd be surprised what you can do with a frozen chuck in the shower). I made sure that I had a small can of tomato paste, checked my supply of chili powder and ground c.u.min (my very most favoritest spice in the whole wide world) and headed to the market.25

3:17 P.M.

The cheapest stew meat I could find was $1.59 a pound. From the looks of the hunks, I'd guess it was chuck mixed with a little round, which was fine. There was also some lamb stew meat (unidentifiable, with lots of bone and connective tissue-shoulder, I'd bet) at $1.29 a pound. I bought 2 pounds of the first and 1 pound of the latter. (I could have gone with all beef, but why?) I wandered the market, pondering the next move and settled on a small can of chipotles in adobo sauce at $1.29.26 Total so far: $5.76. Total so far: $5.76.