How to Fence Part 5

This should be continued until both are weary.

Both swordsmen should learn to do it more rapidly every time they practice. Next time of going through it, front rank and rear rank change places, as they must do in all the practices.

THIRD PRACTICE.

Word of Command. Front Rank. Rear Rank.

Guard Hanging guard Hanging guard Leg Cut four Cut seven Inside guard Inside guard Inside guard Leg Cut six [at leg] Cut six [at neck]

Outside guard Outside guard Outside guard Leg Cut five [at leg] Cut five [at neck]

Guard Hanging guard Hanging guard Slope Swords Slope swords Slope swords

In this and the other practices the cuts must be delivered in the third position, and the guards in the first. In the third and fourth practices the cuts must be given lightly, as many of them are not intended to be guarded, but merely to show the powers of the sword in various positions.

FOURTH PRACTICE.

Word of Command. Front Rank. Rear Rank.

Guard Hanging guard Hanging guard Head Seventh cut Seventh guard Head Seventh guard Cut seven Leg Fourth cut Seventh guard Leg Seventh guard Fourth cut Head Seventh cut Seventh guard Head Seventh guard Seventh cut Guard Hanging guard Hanging guard Slope swords Slope swords Slope swords

In this and the preceding exercise, the power of shifting the leg is shown. If two swordsmen attack each other, and No. 1 strikes at the leg of No. 2, it will be better for No. 2 not to oppose the cut by the third or fourth guard, but to draw back the leg smartly, and cut six or seven at the adversary's head or neck.

In loose play, as it is called, _i. e._, when two parties engage with swords without following any word of command, but strike and guard as they can, both players stand in the second position, because they can either advance or retreat as they choose, and can longe out to the third position for a thrust or a cut, or spring up to the first position for a guard with equal ease.

It is often a kind of trap, to put the right leg more forward than usual, in order to induce the adversary to make a cut at it. When he does so, the leg is drawn back, the stroke pa.s.ses harmless, and the deceived striker gets the stick of his opponent on his head or shoulders.

We now come to a very complicated exercise, called the

FIFTH PRACTICE.

Word of Command. Front Rank. Rear Rank.

Draw swords Draw swords Draw swords Inside guard Inside guard Inside guard Outside guard Outside guard Outside guard Guard Hanging guard Hanging guard Head Seventh cut Seventh guard Head Seventh guard Seventh cut Arm Second cut [at arm] Second guard Head Seventh guard Seventh cut Head Seventh cut Seventh guard Arm Second guard Second cut [at arm]

Head Seventh cut Seventh guard Head Seventh guard Seventh cut Right side Sixth cut Sixth guard Head Seventh guard Seventh cut Head Seventh cut Seventh guard Right side Sixth guard Sixth cut Guard Hanging guard Hanging guard

This practice is capital exercise, and looks very imposing. All these practices ought to be so familiar that the words of command are not needed, the only word required being First, Second, or Third practices, as the case may be.

I can remember once, that two of my pupils had attained such a mastery of their weapons that we used often to go through the practice with real swords. On one occasion, we were acting a charade, and my eldest pupil and myself were enacting the part of two distinguished foreigners (country unknown) who were to get up a fight. So we began by a little quarrel, and finally drew our swords and set hard to work at the fifth practice, which we could do with extreme rapidity, and without the use of words of command. The spectators were horrified, and the ladies greatly alarmed; for there seems to be no particular order in that practice, and an inexperienced eye would certainly fancy that the combatants were in earnest.

FORT AND FEEBLE.

The half of the sword-blade next the hilt is called the "fort," because it is the strongest place on which the cut of an adversary can be received. Always parry and guard with the fort of your sword, as, if you try to guard a cut with the "feeble," which is the remaining half of the blade, your guard will be forced, and the cut take effect.

DRAWING CUT.

The drawing cut is made best with a curved sword, and is executed by placing the edge of the sword on the object, and drawing it over it until it is severed. A good large mangel-wurzel is capital practice.

Place the root loose on a table, stand at arm's-length from it, lay the edge of the sword lightly on it, and slice the root by repeatedly drawing the sword over it. This is very difficult, although it looks easy enough, and is sure to jar the arm from the wrist to the shoulder the first time or two, while the sword glides off as if the root were cased in polished steel. However, a little practice will soon overcome the difficulty. This cut is much in use among the Sikhs.

GENERAL ADVICE.

Never look at your own sword, but watch the eye and sword-wrist of your opponent.

Remember that the great point in this exercise, as in fencing, is to gain time. Endeavor, therefore, to advance your point nearer your adversary than his is to you.

Begin the a.s.sault out of distance, so that neither party can complain of being taken by surprise.

If the two parties exchange a cut or a thrust at the same moment, the one who gave his cut or thrust in the third position is victorious.

When a cut or thrust is made, the one who receives it pa.s.ses his sword, _i. e._, stick, into his left hand, and his opponent comes to inside guard.

Always spring back to the second position after delivering a cut or thrust.

Keep the line of direction carefully, or you will leave an open s.p.a.ce for the adversary to get his sword into.

Last and most important,--Don't lose your temper!

ARCHERY.

IMPLEMENTS OF THE CRAFT.

For the Purposes of the Archer the following implements are required, which may be obtained at any of the princ.i.p.al makers in New York or Boston--first, the bow; secondly, the arrow; thirdly, a quiver, pouch, and belt; fourthly, a ta.s.sel and grease-pot; fifthly, an arm-guard or brace, and a shooting glove; sixthly, a target or targets; and seventhly, a scoring card.

THE BOW is the most important article in archery, and also the most expensive. It is usually from five to six feet in length, made of a single piece of yew, or of lancewood and hickory glued together back to back. The former suits gentlemen the best, and the latter being more lively is better adapted for the short, sharp pull of the ladies. The wood is gradually tapered, and at each end is a tip of horn, the one from the upper end being longer than the other or lower one. The strength of bows is marked in pounds, varying from 25 to 80 lbs. Ladies'

bows are from 25 to 40 lbs. in strength, and those of gentlemen from 50 to 80 lbs. One side of the bow is flat, called its "back;" the other rounded, is called the "belly;" and nearly in the middle, where the hand should take the hold, it is lapped round with velvet, and that part is called the "handle." In each of the tips of horn is a notch for the string called "the nock."

BOWSTRINGS are made of hemp or flax, the former being the better material; for though at first they stretch more, yet they wear longer, and stand a harder pull as well as being more elastic in the shooting.

In applying a fresh string to a bow, be careful in opening it not to break the composition that is on it; cut the tie, take hold of the eye, which will be found ready-worked at one end, let the other part hang down, and pa.s.s the eye over the upper end of the bow. If for a lady, it may be held from 2 to 2-1/2 inches below the nock; if for a gentleman, half an inch lower, varying it according to the length and strength of the bow; then run your hand along the side of the bow and string to the bottom nock, turn it round that and fix it by the noose, called the "timber noose," taking care not to untwist the string in making it. This noose is merely a simple turn back and twist without a knot, but it is better seen than described. When strung, a lady's bow will have the string about 5 or 5-1/2 inches from the belly; and a gentleman's about half an inch more. The part opposite the handle, is bound round with waxed silk, in order to prevent its being frayed by the arrow. As soon as a string becomes too soft and the fibers too straight, rub it with bees-wax, and give it a few turns in the proper direction, so as to shorten it and twist its strands a little tighter; a spare string should always be provided by the shooter.

THE ARROWS are differently shaped by the various makers; some being of uniform thickness throughout, while others are protuberant in the middle; some, again, are larger at the point than at the feather end, which I believe to be the best form for shooting; and others are quite the reverse. They are now invariably made of white deal, with points of iron or bra.s.s riveted on, but generally having a piece of heavy wood spliced on to the deal between it and the point, by which their flight is improved. At the other end a piece of horn is inserted, in which is a notch for the string; and they are armed with three feathers glued on, one of which is of a different color to the others, and is intended to mark the proper position of the arrow when placed on the string--this one always pointing from the bow. These feathers, properly applied, give a rotary motion to the arrow which causes its flight to be straight.

They are generally from the wing of the turkey or goose. The length and weight vary; the latter being marked in sterling silver coin, stamped on the arrow in plain figures. It is usual to paint a crest, or a distinguishing ring or rings, on the arrow just above the feathers, by which they may be known in shooting at the target.

THE QUIVER is merely a tin case painted green, and is intended for the security of the arrows when not in use. The POUCH and BELT are worn round the waist, and the latter contains those arrows which are actually being shot.

A POT TO HOLD GREASE FOR TOUCHING THE GLOVE AND STRING, AND A Ta.s.sEL to wipe the arrows, are hung to the belt. The grease is composed of deer-suet, or of beef-suet, and bees-wax melted together. Instead of a leather belt, ladies use a cord and ta.s.sels round the waist, to which the pouch, of a different shape to that adopted by gentlemen, is hooked; and this, again, has the grease-pot suspended to it.

THE ARM is protected from the blow of the string by the brace, a broad guard of strong leather buckled on by two straps. A SHOOTING-GLOVE, also of thin tubes of leather, is attached to the wrist by three flat pieces ending in a circular strap buckled round it. This glove prevents that soreness of the fingers which soon comes on after using the bow without it.

THE TARGET consists of a circular thick mat of straw covered with canvas, painted in a series of circles. It is usually from three feet six inches to four feet in diameter; the middle is about six or eight inches in diameter, gilt, and called "the gold;" the next is called "the red," after which comes the "inner white," then "the black," and finally, "the outer white." These targets are mounted upon triangular stands, at distances apart of from 50 to 100 yards; 60 being the usual shooting distance.

A SCORING-CARD is provided with columns for each color, which are marked with a pin, as here indicated. The usual score for a gold hit, 9; the red, 7; inner white, 6; black, 3, and outer white, 1.