History of the State of California Part 11

The quicksilver mines of California are believed to be numerous, extensive, and very valuable. The largest and most profitable one yet opened is situated near San Jose, and belongs to, or is claimed by, Mr. Forbes, of Tepic, in Mexico. The cinnabar ore, which produces the quicksilver, is easily procured, and machinery has been put in operation, which enables the proprietor to make an extensive profit.

The value of the quicksilver mines, by being so near the gold region, is considerably increased; quicksilver being almost indispensable in gold mining.

Extensive beds of silver, iron, and copper ores are believed to exist in the territory, but their existence and value is not accurately ascertained, the allurements held out by the continued success of the gold-miners and the continued discovery of new and profitable _placers_ being too strong to permit any search for the baser, but more useful metals. Respecting the propriety of the establishment of a mint in California, Mr. King makes the following observations--

"I have already alluded to the propriety of establishing a mint in California. This is important in many respects. At this time, there is not coin in the country to supply a currency. Much difficulty is experienced in procuring enough to pay the duties on imported goods.

The common circulating medium is, therefore, gold dust, which is sold at $15 50 to $16 per ounce. In the mines, it is frequently sold much lower. The miners, the laboring men, are the sufferers from this state of things.

"Those who purchase and ship gold to the Atlantic States make large profits: _but those who dig lose what others make_.

"I have estimated that there will be $50,000,000 collected during the current year. At $16 per ounce, that sum will weigh 3,125,000 ounces.

"Gold, at the United States mint, is worth $18 per ounce, making a difference in value on that quant.i.ty, between San Francisco and New York, of $6,250,000, which would be saved to the miners by the establishment of a mint.

"I have also suggested its importance as a means of promoting and increasing our trade with the west coast of Mexico and South America.

"It is not doubted that the construction of a railway across the Isthmus of Panama, and, perhaps, the establishment of other lines of communication between the two oceans, will give to the products and manufactures of the older States of the Union command of the market of California to the exclusion, in a great degree, of those of the west coast.

"A mint will, therefore, become of the utmost importance, to give such marketable value to silver bullion as to enable the merchants of those countries to keep up and increase the intercourse with our princ.i.p.al ports on the Pacific.

"The silver bullion shipped to Europe from the west coast of Mexico amounts to more than ten millions of dollars per annum. From the countries on the west coast of South America, probably an equal quant.i.ty. That from Mexico goes to pay for European importations into her ports on the Atlantic side.

"A market at San Francisco for this bullion will be the means of subst.i.tuting American and Chinese fabrics for those of European manufacture in all those countries. This will greatly increase the trade between China and California."

A bill for the establishment of a mint at San Francisco was introduced into Congress, during the present session, (1849-50) and pa.s.sed both houses; thus securing to California the advantages mentioned in the above extract, by Mr. King.

We have thus given a complete description of California, in respect to population, climate, soil, productions, commercial resources, and metallic and mineral wealth, as accurate and comprehensive as the most authentic sources could furnish, or as could be ascertained at the present time. Although the territory already contains a large population and has produced a great amount of treasure in the short duration of its existence; although it is already a large State, which has _sprung_ into existence, as it may be termed, there is every evidence that this is but the "beginning of the end." "The greatest is behind." To what such commercial facilities, mineral and metallic resources, and an active and progressive population will conduct California, it is easy to imagine. They will build up a State, which, although the member of a confederacy, will be powerful enough to maintain itself, independent of the aid to be derived from the Union.

Its ports will be the resort of the vessels of all nations, and its valleys and hill-sides will become the homes of an agricultural population, reaping the rich reward of their toil. Ca.n.a.ls and railroads, the children of enterprise, will soon intersect the territory, transport the riches of one section to another, and increase the social communication of the inhabitants. Such a State will add greatly to the power of the confederated republic, and form an additional stimulus to the rapid filling up of the vast territory situated between California and her sister States.

FOOTNOTE:

[13] Six Months in the Gold Mines, by E. Gould Buffum.

CHAPTER XI.

THE DIFFERENT ROUTES TO CALIFORNIA, AND THEIR RESPECTIVE CHARACTERS.

The various routes taken by the emigrants to California have afforded almost as much matter for discussion as the territory itself. The shortest and most travelled route is that by way of the Isthmus of Panama; and of this we shall first give a description, with recommendations to travellers, and the experience of some who have taken that route to the "land of promise."

Both steam and sailing vessels are constantly engaged in carrying freight and pa.s.sengers from the princ.i.p.al ports of the Atlantic States to Chagres, the princ.i.p.al port on the eastern coast of the Isthmus.

Tickets which will carry pa.s.sengers to Chagres, and, after crossing the Isthmus, from Panama to San Francisco, can be purchased in New York, from whence to Chagres, the pa.s.sage generally occupies about eight days, and has been accomplished in seven. The harbor of Chagres is a small but good one, for vessels of less than two hundred tons burden. It is protected by hills on all sides and towards the ocean, by a beetling cliff, jutting out into the sea, on the summit of which is the ancient and somewhat dilapidated castle of San Lorenzo. At the base of this cliff is the channel which forms an entrance to the town.

Ignorance of this fact caused the wreck of several of the vessels which went from the United States to Chagres soon after the receipt of the news of the gold discovery. The following is a description of Chagres and its inhabitants in the early part of 1849. It has since improved considerably, on account of the travel across the Isthmus.

"The first thing which struck our wondering gaze on entering Chagres, was its bee-hive appearance. It is a strange, fantastic, and oddish-looking town, situated in a deep, dark hollow or cove. It consists of some forty or fifty huts, with pointed palm-thatched roofs, and reed walls. Nor were the innumerable buzzards which were flying about or resting on the houses, together with the energetic gesticulation of the natives when in conversation, as we drew near, at all calculated to lessen the picturesque effect of a first view. The surrounding country was any thing but devoid of interest and beauty.

All had a strange, equatorial look; while the green hills around, clothed with rich tropical verdure, and the graceful and shadowy palm and cocoanut, with other strange fantastic trees, together with the ruins of the large old Spanish castle, on the heights above the town, gave to the scenery a very beautiful and picturesque aspect.

"Most of us were soon ash.o.r.e and rambling through the town. We landed at the beach, on some logs, which, during the rainy season, are necessary to preserve the pedestrian from a quagmire, in the midst of dense foliage that was here luxuriant to the water's edge, surrounded by about thirty canoes and some forty or fifty huge black fellows, mostly in the garb in which nature arrayed them. We pa.s.sed on beneath a burning sun, which in the shade brought the thermometer to 90 of Fahrenheit. A majority of the natives are black, but some are of a deep copper or mulatto color. The thick lips and woolly head of the African; the high cheek-bones, straight hair, and dogged look of the Indian; and the more chisled features and finely expressive eyes of the Spaniard, are all here, though often so blended, that it is difficult to say to which race they chiefly owe their origin. In truth they are a mongrel race, but generally have the most magnificent, large, dark, expressive eyes I have ever seen. These, when in conversation, which is almost continual, they use to some purpose, while the incessant rapid clatter of their tongues, and their violent gesticulations and grimaces, are often quite ludicrous. The females, some of whom have rather pretty faces, and particularly fine eyes, were dressed out in the most tawdry finery, with divers furbelows, flounces, and ruffles, encircling the shoulders, where the dress begins, and terminating somewhere about or below the knee. Some of the younger ones were entirely _model artiste_, at least so far as their clothing was concerned, but the forms of most were rather indifferent.

Many were sitting or lounging about the doors or in the cabins, eating tamarinds, oranges, and other fruit, surrounded by hairless dogs, pigs, naked children, turkey-buzzards, and some other _little_ live stock, forming altogether quite a congruous and h.o.m.ogeneous mixture.

"In a Country like this, where the temperature is so nearly alike throughout the year, there is a natural tendency to indolence and sloth, and it is remarkable what an influence the climate exerts on the character of the people. Here nature with a bounteous hand spontaneously fructifies the earth, and the natives, with few wants to supply, pluck the fruit and are satisfied; and with few necessities for enterprise and industry, such is their love of indolence, that all the charms of existence appear to consist in dreaming away life in quiet and repose. Basking beneath a tropical sun, or listlessly reclining on nature's downy couch, days--years--are pa.s.sed in drowsy languor and supine sloth.

"But the influx of men from rougher climes and bleaker regions will probably exercise a salutary influence, by showing them the advantages of industry and patient toil. Already they begin to perceive this, to some extent, and though such dear lovers of money, that in closing a bargain they will jabber their _patois_, or bad Spanish, with uncouth gesticulations, for half a day, the majority of them are unwilling to make any extra bodily effort to procure it; but when persuaded by liberal offers to undertake a task, it is astonishing with what dogged perseverance they will often pursue it, what weights they can support, and what toil they can endure."[14]

It is recommended that pa.s.sengers from the States should remain as short a time in Chagres as possible. The exhalations from its malarious atmosphere are extremely prejudicial to the health of the new-comer.

From Chagres, the travellers proceed in canoes up the Chagres river, to Gorgona, a distance of about fifty miles, or eight miles further, to Cruces. The canoes are mostly owned by the natives, and the greatest care is necessary to get them to keep their agreement. The usual plan by which their services are secured, is this: A bargain is made with the owner of the canoe, stipulating for the necessary captain and poles-men, and then some of the party going up the river in the canoe, take possession of it, and maintain it, while one goes before the alcalde, and pays the whole amount agreed upon, taking a receipt in Spanish. This precaution is rendered necessary; the proprietor of the canoe returning the money to those who engaged it, on finding he can obtain a greater price from others. At the present time, vessels, steam and sailing, are being constructed at Chagres, for the pa.s.sage up the river, the increase of the Isthmus travel rendering it both necessary and profitable.

The beauty of the country through which the Chagres river flows has been the theme of frequent praise. Its banks are filled with all the luxuriant verdure which tropical climes produce. The tamarind, the date, the pomegranate, the plantain, the banana, the cocoanut, the lime, the citron, and the pine apple, are abundant. Flowers of every hue send forth their fragrance upon the air, rendering its sweetness delightful to the senses. Orange groves are numerous, and the fruit is as plentiful as the apple of the Southern States of the Union.

Mountains, hills, and valleys diversify the prospect, while the ear is filled with the melodious notes of thousands of birds, native of the tropics, their music contrasting with the discordant noise of the parrots, mackaws, and chattering monkeys. Such a scene is worth the travel to the Isthmus, and the toils sometimes endured in crossing it.

Several small towns and ranches are scattered along the banks of the river. The first is Gatun, ten or twelve miles above Chagres. About ten miles further is Dos Hermano; further on, Puro Blanco, and Palenquilla last, about two-thirds of the way to Gorgona. These are stopping places for the canoes, where refreshments and supplies can be procured.

At night, parties that land are compelled to build fires to keep off the wild beasts and venomous serpents, which abound in the neighborhood of the river, and to disperse the myriads of insects with which the air teems. Alligators of a large size, are to be seen lying on the banks in the day time, basking in the sun. Above Palenquilla are some powerful currents, which it requires considerable toil to move against. The river is in some places a half a mile wide, and in others, not more than thirty yards. The boatmen are exceedingly indolent, and require constant driving and coaxing to keep them moving; but sometimes, when they are prevailed upon to go to work, they will exhibit an endurance and perseverance almost astonishing.

They have been frequently known to work at the poles, pushing the boat along, for twenty-four hours, without rest. The difficulty of ascending the Chagres river, may be appreciated, when it is stated, that although Gorgona is only fifty miles from the town of Chagres, it frequently occupies as high as forty hours for the canoes to reach that place. Stoppages are, of course, numerous, both on account of the tiring of the boatmen and for refreshment.

"Gorgona is located upon a bend of the river, from which a fine view of the river and valley is obtained. The valley is here about five miles wide, the mountains rising from it in successive ranges, and with increasing elevations. It is an admirable location for a town, and must become one of considerable importance--especially should it be on the route of the proposed railroad across the Isthmus. It has a far better appearance than Chagres; the streets are laid out with some pretensions to regularity. It is the head of canoe navigation, and steamboats of light draft can approach it. The dwellings or huts are of a better cla.s.s than those at Chagres; they have an unfinished Catholic church that looks rude and ragged, but nevertheless, it is a church. The carrying trade is now almost the only business pursued by its inhabitants; what they did before the gold of California began to invite a swarm of adventurers across the Isthmus, to the town is more than can be divined. Theirs must have been as near a pastoral or primitive life, as any that can be seen in our day. The soil is teeming with the evidences of its richness--inviting the hand of man to its cultivation, by showing what it is capable of doing without it--but it is undisturbed, save in a few stinted spots of less size than our ordinary kitchen gardens. All else is left to spontaneous production. They have herds of cattle; these, with game, flesh, fish, and fowl, easily procured, must have been their princ.i.p.al sustenance.

But it is with them as with the rest of the world, wants increase with the facilities for gratifying them. They are rapidly changing their habits since they have an opportunity to earn money and luxuries, that they have been strangers to, are brought within their means and their reach.

During the _dry season_, which lasts from December till June, the road from Gorgona to Panama is generally preferred; at other times, the canoes proceed up the river about eight miles, to the town of Cruces, and take the road leading from that place to Panama. Each of these routes shall receive our consideration, and their respective advantages and disadvantages be set forth. It is advisable, that travellers should rest as short a time as possible at Gorgona, as accommodations are of very poor character. Mules and a small species of mustang are easily obtained, but the mule is far preferable. Some travellers find it a great relief to walk a part of the distance, and, with that intention, parties hire mules or horses in the proportion of two to every three travellers. The baggage will have to be placed under the charge of the native muleteers, but, from their observed habits of filching wherever they get a chance, it is advisable not to trust them out of sight. There are several places upon the route where refreshments can be procured; but most of the travellers start at daylight from Gorgona, and push directly through to Panama, in one day. This is the best mode of proceeding, if the fatigue is found to be endurable; for it is above all things important that in such a climate too great fatigue should be avoided. The following account of a journey to Panama by way of the Gorgona road, and descriptions of the road is from a recently published narrative:

"We arose from cot and hammock, flea-bitten, and but little refreshed, though ready to start on what we deemed our perilous journey across the Isthmus. Hour after hour elapsed, till the most pleasant part of the day was gone, and the sun shone with torrid fervor; but still our mules were not ready, our host keeping them back, as we afterwards learned, to obtain a higher rate. Annoyed beyond endurance at the delay, and the tardy movements of the worthless set around us, we scoured the town, and at length succeeded in obtaining four miserable-looking little animals at eight dollars a-piece. Another was still wanting, and, by an offer of ten dollars, I at length succeeded in getting a tolerably good one. Though so wretched in appearance, we found these animals capable of great endurance.

"Glad that the vexatious and irritating events of the morning, which the cupidity and dogged laziness of these slothful mongrels had produced, were happily ended, we hastily swallowed a cup of bad coffee, handed by a damsel nearly _nude_, and mounting our _Rosinantes_, we started at a brisk canter, beneath a broiling sun, while our _guido_, all stripped and on foot, trotted off in advance.

"For the first mile, the way was very pleasant over a nearly level plain, at the termination of which there were stronger indications of rougher riding, for we soon began to descend a nearly perpendicular precipice, the only pa.s.s, down which was a narrow mule-way, where, step by step, these animals had worn a pa.s.sage, over rocks, loose stones, sand and mud. We at length reached the bottom of the ravine, and, crossing a brook, which in some parts was a wide and deep chasm, we commenced a toilsome ascent on the opposite side, over a similar pathway, surrounded by scenery of wild and unknown plants and trees, on the mountain and glen, through whose dense foliage a breath could scarcely penetrate. The fervent atmosphere produced an almost stifling sensation, while the deathlike silence that reigned throughout, disturbed only by the audible footfall of our animals, as we slowly wound around the tortuous ascent, made the journey peculiarly toilsome and solitary.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SONORIANS DRY-WASHING GOLD.]

"For the first few miles I followed closely at the heels of our guide, and would often pause and turn to examine the apparently almost impa.s.sable route I had traversed, watch the progress of the rest of the party, and wonder at the security with which their cautiously-stepping and sagacious animals would gradually overcome seemingly insurmountable obstacles. These mustangs and mules, early trained to travel 'in the wild mountain track,' are capable of great endurance, and certainly possess much more knowledge than most of their riders, when exercised upon what they consider the safest and surest stepping-place, and best mode of proceeding. I urged mine repeatedly, to make him choose a path, which to all appearance was preferable to his own, but to no purpose. He would turn half round, and in a slow, solemn way, put his nose to the ground, and looking keenly about the place, would cautiously put one foot forward, then another, then a third and a fourth, when, poised on all drawn under him, and close together, he would have a better opportunity for further inspection, which having satisfactorily accomplished, another equally deliberate and cautious step would be made as before, down what, to all appearance, was an impracticable route, and so on, until the difficulty was overcome. Finding that he knew so much better than I did, how, where, and when he ought to travel, I invariably threw the reins to him, when hazardous pa.s.ses or other obstacles were to be surmounted. The result was always fortunate. One or two of the party, however, were satisfied that 'horses should not have their own way,'

and whipped and spurred theirs to such an extent, to compel compliance with their better judgment, that the issue was as I had antic.i.p.ated.

One was thrown over his horse's head into a mud puddle, and the other, with horse and all, stuck fast in a quagmire, from which it was not easy to extricate him. Should these lines ever meet the eye of those worthy gentlemen, I trust they will pardon the liberty I have taken in recording here their feats of muleship. It is true that mine stumbled on some loose stones once or twice, in descending hills, and my efforts alone with the reins saved both him and me from a fall; but for unmistakeable judgment in traversing these perilous mountain-pa.s.ses, I must admit he proved himself the better of the two.

"Thus we trudged on, often over difficult, and sometimes dangerous ways. Occasionally we would have to go up or down, as the case might be, for nearly half a mile at one time, through a chasm or sluice, probably worn in the mountains by the torrents of water that descend during the rainy season. These gully-holes are often ten and fifteen feet deep throughout their entire extent, and the pa.s.ses are so narrow, as barely to admit of one horse or mule pa.s.sing through at a time; the rider, to avoid a severe contusion, or probably a broken limb, in turning the sharp angles, being compelled to place his feet as near the animal's head as possible, and in this manner he can ride in perfect safety, though some little management is requisite to maintain an equilibrium. Before entering these defiles, the muleteers shout at the top of their voices, and stop for a short time, continuing the shouting as they advance, to apprize others at the opposite extremity of the pa.s.s, that the way is already occupied. This is necessary and important, for if two on horseback were to meet in one of these narrow but crooked paths, the scene between the Quaker and Dandy would have to be re-enacted, for many newspapers would have to be read, and many segars smoked, before either could turn out of the way for his neighbor.

"Continuing on, we pa.s.sed two or three _hackalas_, or huts, by the way, and after several brief but pleasant stoppages at the various brooks and mountain-rills, we at length came out on a beautiful undulating meadow, where picturesque villas and shadowy trees decked the verdant plain, and soon thereafter the towers of Panama were in view. The sun was just setting as we entered the suburbs, and a flood of purple glory rested on the sky, reflected back by the sparkling waters of the Pacific, which brought the distant mountains into bolder relief, and cast a deeper shadow through the twilight groves. Half an hour's ride over the paved street, brought us to the city, which we entered at the 'Gorgona gate,' pa.s.sing through a heavy stone arch way, supporting a cupola, in which hangs the alarm bell mounted by a cross."[15]

Such is the character of the Gorgona road to Panama. With regard to the Crucis road, we may observe that it is a common practice, for most of those who take the Gorgona road in going to Panama, on their return, to take the Crucis road, no doubt hoping that the difficulties and toil to be encountered are less than those they know are to be met with upon the other. The following account of a return journey by way of the Crucis road, with the full character of the route, is given in the journal of a returned adventurer.

"I had pa.s.sed three days in Panama; and, feeling desirous of continuing my journey, I had no sooner concluded this arrangement, than I got my mule saddled, and my box and carpet-bag packed in the regular Isthmus fashion. The mule I obtained, like most of his fellows, was little better than a mere skeleton; but still it was the best I could procure, and I was fain to content myself with it. Some of my friends endeavored to persuade me that it was better to proceed on foot; but I knew the muddy and stony nature of the road, and thought it infinitely more comfortable to ride a slow animal than subject myself to the sufferings that I must experience from these inconveniences.

"The negro, I had hired, brought to my hotel a long frame of bamboo, with a sort of basket at the end, into which he crammed my luggage.

This frame had two straps fastened to the upper part of it, through one of which he slipped his arm, whilst he pa.s.sed the other over his left shoulder, and attached it under the latter to the frame which was now on his back. This contrivance not only effectually secures the load in its place, but protects the shoulders of the bearer from the continual friction they would otherwise undergo.

"A large party had preceded me; but I felt no anxiety to overtake it, as there was little or no danger of my encountering violence on the route. I was armed with a good revolving pistol, in the event of any thing of the sort presenting itself; so that, all things considered, I was just as well pleased to be left to my own society.

"I proceeded on my route with my sable attendant, and found the commencement pleasant enough travelling, the road for some distance being paved with large and regularly cut stone. This, however, soon terminated in abundance of sand; the route still continuing dry, and comparatively easy to what I had expected to find it. Soon after we had quitted the paved road, the negro stopped and asked my permission to take a few things to his family, who lived in a small hut to our left. Apprehensive that he was meditating an escape with my luggage, I replied that I had no objection, provided he would leave his basket in my care. He accordingly took the frame off his back, and, separating a small bundle containing provisions from my baggage, he took his departure. I took care, however, to keep him in sight and saw him enter a wretched-looking bamboo-hut at a little distance from the route. He remained absent a considerable time; and, having paid him half his wages in advance, according to the usual custom with these people, who are exceedingly distrustful, I began to fear that he was about to desert me, and therefore called out l.u.s.tily, until at last I saw him reluctantly emerge from the hut, and make his way towards me.