Handicraft for Girls Part 8

[Ill.u.s.tration: PLACKET SAMPLER (BACK VIEW).]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Ap.r.o.nS--EXERCISE NO. 33.]

EXERCISE NO. 34--PLACKET SAMPLER--THE GUSSET.[29]

Second section of the Placket Sampler.

_Materials:_ The second quarter of the large piece of calico; a two-inch square of calico for the gusset.

Fold with the warp through the center, and cut an opening on this fold five inches in length. Then follow the directions for making the gusset.

Sew the two sections together with the French fell. Hem the sides with a quarter-inch hem.

EXERCISE NO. 35--b.u.t.tONHOLES.

_Materials:_ Blue Percale 9" woof by 4" warp; sc.r.a.ps of calico for practice pieces; white thread No. 40 and No. 80; needles No. 7 and No.

8.

Remember the old adage _Practice Makes Perfect_.

See description of the b.u.t.tonhole, page 63.

_Note:_ Sc.r.a.ps and odd pieces of calico can be used for the practice work on b.u.t.tonholes. As the b.u.t.tonhole requires a great deal of practice it is well to keep these pieces in the sewing box and work at it at odd times during the progress of the years' work. Encourage the girls, too, to practice on the b.u.t.tonhole for home work. In this way they will gradually acquire the skill which only comes with practice. Fold the cloth, wrong side out, with the woof and through the center, and baste the edges together. Begin with the blind b.u.t.tonhole.

The b.u.t.tonhole model is intended to show how much skill has been acquired. Fold the percale through the center, with the _woof_, and baste the edges together. Make the b.u.t.tonholes three-fourths of an inch long and one inch apart.

EXERCISE NO. 36--PLACKET SAMPLER--THE SHIRT SLEEVE OR NIGHTGOWN OPENING.

_Materials:_ Half of the large piece of calico; facing 18" 2".

Fold with the warp through the center and cut an opening on this fold five inches in length. Then follow the directions for the Nightgown Opening. Hem the side of the narrower part with a quarter-inch hem.

EXERCISE NO. 37--A HEMSt.i.tCHED COLLAR.[29][30]

_Materials:_ Butcher's linen, collar 15-1/2" warp by 3" woof, India linen band 15-1/2" warp by 1-1/2" woof; practice piece 6" warp by 4"

woof; white thread No. 80; needle No. 8.

Measure the neck and decide upon the length of collar and width of hem before tr.i.m.m.i.n.g.

See directions for Hemst.i.tching, page 76.

Put the collar band on the collar. The collars may be still further ornamented with fine feather st.i.tching, the star st.i.tch or French knots.

EXERCISE NO. 38--PLACKET SAMPLER--BANDS--HEMMED AND OVERHANDED.

See description of Bands and Gathering, pages 68 and 79.

To avoid soiling the cloth put the bands on before seaming the halves of the Placket Sampler together. This can be done with the exception of the band on the long side of the nightgown opening, which will have to be done after this side is basted to the other section, cut off and hemmed, and will therefore be the last thing to be done on the Sampler. Put the hemmed bands on the side having the placket and the gusset, and the overhand bands on the side of the nightgown opening.

Length of bands: On the first half, short bands cut two inches, one and one-half inches finished; long band cut four inches, three and one-half inches finished; on the last half, bands cut three and three quarters inches, three and one-quarter inches finished.

Sew the two sections of the Sampler together with the French seam. The section having the two openings is a little narrower than the other.

Baste the two sections together, basting the little pleats at the end of the placket and the nightgown opening, and sew them into the seam. Do not cut off the long side until basted nearly across, then cut off and hem the side. Finish with the last band.

EXERCISE NO. 39--AN UNDERSKIRT.

_Materials:_ Pupils will furnish their own material for an underskirt for themselves. The patterns which their mothers use can be secured from the home, or one pattern used by all the members of the cla.s.s. These skirts may be made plain or trimmed with tucked ruffles of cloth or with embroidery, depending upon the wishes of the mothers, the skill and taste of the individuals and the material furnished. Should there be difficulty in securing material for the garment, a small model on the half-inch scale or one of the electives can be subst.i.tuted. Insist that the work be well done, neatly finished and first cla.s.s throughout. Use sewing machines when available.

Points to emphasize in the making of a skirt:

1. Cut a correct pattern before beginning the skirt. Do not trust to making corrections when cutting out.

2. Baste the straight edge of one gore to the bias edge of another when making a gored skirt. This prevents the sagging which would occur if two bias edges were sewed together.

3. Allow plenty in hem and tucks for letting down when making garments for growing girls.

EXERCISE NO. 40--TEXTILE FIBERS AND FABRICS--FLAX.

Under the heading "Textile Fibers and Fabrics," page 94, will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography, language and history work. The sixth grade subject is Flax. Make a collection of the flax products, fabrics, etc. A cla.s.s set of compositions, each member of the cla.s.s taking different subdivisions of the subject, would make an interesting collection which could be put together in a simple binding done by members of the cla.s.s.

See "Paper and Cardboard Construction," page 101.

ELECTIVES.

[28] Placket A may be subst.i.tuted for the gusset, if desired.

[29] A pin cushion cover may be hemst.i.tched in place of the collar. Make this a square seven inches by seven inches, or an oblong five inches by nine inches, or any size to fit a particular cushion that can be cut from these pieces, or any size for which the pupils furnish their own material.

[Ill.u.s.tration: ROUND BOTTOM BAG WITH RAFFIA COVERING.]

[30] Pupils who desire to furnish their own materials for a linen handkerchief may subst.i.tute this for the hemst.i.tched collar.

[31] Basketry may be subst.i.tuted for the ap.r.o.n, or a clipping case or a postal-card alb.u.m may be made instead.

See "Paper, Cloth and Cardboard Construction," page 107.

THE ROUND BOTTOM BAG WITH A FANCY RAFFIA COVERING.

Make the bag any size desired; a circle of three or four inches in diameter makes a practical one. Draw the pattern for the raffia covering on paper, the circle for the bottom being the same size as that of the bottom of the bag. The design for the sides may be in as many sections as desired. The tops of these sections may be shaped to suit one's taste--round, pointed or fancy. When the pattern is completed baste a strand of raffia on the pattern, following the lines of the design. Then closely blanket st.i.tch with raffia on both sides of these strands. The s.p.a.ces may then be filled with fancy lace st.i.tches.