Gleanings by the Way Part 4

THE OHIO NEAR ITS MOUTH.

New Albany--Sailing down the Ohio--Profanity--Lovely views of nature--A sudden squall on the river--Kentucky sh.o.r.e--Young fawn--The mouth of the Tennessee river--The swimming deer--His struggle and capture--Meeting of the waters of the Ohio with the Mississippi--Gambling--Intemperance--Sail up the Mississippi to St. Louis.

_New Albany, Indiana, Tuesday Morning, June 27, 1837._

Indiana is unquestionably destined to become one of the most interesting of the Western States. Its princ.i.p.al towns that stand along on the Ohio, must of course become very important points. This will be particularly the case with New Albany, which is already one of the most populous and flourishing towns in Indiana. It bears on every part of it the marks of a new place, and the manner in which every house and shed within its precincts is crowded, shows that it must have expansion. It is situated about four miles from Louisville, just below the rapids, on a fine broad table of land, which is so far above high water mark, as effectually to secure it from those inundations, occasioned by the sudden rise of the Ohio. Some way back in the rear of the town, and nearly encircling it, rises up in a very picturesque manner, what is here called _a k.n.o.b_, an elevated steppe of land, from which we look down upon the town and river, and see them spread out before us as on a map, in distinct and beautiful delineation.

Louisville appears in the distance, and the adjacent country, which with the windings, and wooded scenery of the beautiful Ohio, presents a view so exquisite, that the imagination can scarcely conceive any thing more romantic.

It is only three or four years since there were but a handful of inhabitants at New Albany: it now numbers six thousand, and is rapidly increasing in population. A very large proportion of its inhabitants are young, enterprising men from the East, who possess moderate means, and have come here to build up their fortunes. How important to bring such minds under the influence of the Gospel! This is a centre from which influences for good or evil will go forth through the state, and I believe it may be truly said, it is one of those fields that "are white for the harvest."

I met Bishop Kemper at Louisville, on his way to hold an ordination at Madison, another interesting town in Indiana, on the Ohio, between Louisville and Cincinnati. The bishop purposes to devote two or three months between this and autumn to Indiana. He appears indefatigable in his efforts to promote the good cause, and every tongue through the whole west speaks forth his praise, and cheerfully accords to him the high encomium of a _zealous, devoted, and holy man_. There are now seven or eight Episcopal clergymen in Indiana, and the cry still is, "The harvest is plenteous, but the labourers are few."

_Steamboat, Tuesday Evening, June 27th._

It was about three o'clock to-day, that we started on our way from Louisville, down the Ohio. It was excessively hot, and I experienced a languor and sense of exhaustion, which I do not recollect ever before to have felt. When the sun began to decline, and we again found ourselves gliding as by enchantment over the surface, and sweeping through the midst of the beautiful scenery of the Ohio, I felt that I had pa.s.sed into a new world. As I traversed the deck of the boat, and saw reflected from the smooth and mirror-like bosom of the river, the luxuriant foliage, rich and dark by its own deep verdure--the smooth green bank that sloped down to the water's edge, as though to kiss the smiling surface that slept so quietly below--the abrupt precipitous bluff, starting up like a mound of earth, or a wall of solid masonry--and the head-land sweeping off into sloping woods that towered in majesty above the stream, I could not but feel, and could scarcely refrain from exclaiming aloud, how beautiful and surpa.s.singly lovely are the works of G.o.d! What must the heart of that man be made of, who can pa.s.s through the midst of such displays of divine beauty, and pollute the very atmosphere as he pa.s.ses with profanity! This is what hundreds are daily doing. Almost all the hands on board of the steamboats, down even to the little boys, utter an oath almost every other word.

_Profane swearing_ is one of the crying sins of this western world. Oaths the most horrid are awfully common among all sorts of people. Amid these scenes of varied beauty where creation appears so lovely we may truly say,

"* * * Every prospect pleases And only man is vile.

In vain with lavish kindness The gifts of G.o.d are strown."

Men pa.s.s here in thousands, and mindless of all these tokens of a wonder-working Deity, continue to live as though there were no G.o.d in the Universe, or as if He existed only to afford a theme for more aggravated profanity. And yet looking at the matter, aside from the native depravity of the human heart, one would think that the spontaneous effusion of every intelligent mind whose attention was directed to this scene, would be, as he looked around, "Surely this is the teaching of the mighty G.o.d! May lessons be impressed upon my heart by the outspread volumes before me, which no mutations of time, no excitement of pa.s.sion, no fascinations of the world, no devices of the Evil one will ever efface. Eternal Creator, here among this green, boundless, majestic temple of thy works I renew the consecration of myself to thee, soul, body, and spirit. While these rivers roll their waters towards the sea--while a spear of gra.s.s grows in these fields--while a tree on these wooded banks is clothed with foliage in the vernal month--yea, while the solid earth lasts, and the cycles of eternity move on, with thy grace will I live only to serve and glorify Thee."

_Wednesday, June 28th._

While we were leisurely sailing along to-day, the weather being oppressively warm, and the heavens very bright and sunny, and not a breath of air stirring, pyramids of snow-white clouds began to be piled up in the northern and western sky. These ma.s.ses of cloud seemed heaped together in every fantastic form. They towered aloft like huge mountains of snow. What added to the interest and singular appearance of the scene was, that this arch of the snow-pillowed sky sprung directly up from a boundless sea of verdant foliage that stretched interminably around. Through these ma.s.ses of white cloud, there occasionally appeared large interstices, like deep caverns, opening into the blue profound!--long vistas through which we could seem to catch a view of the inmost heaven. Suddenly a tremendous gale struck us; the waters of the calm Ohio were thrown into the utmost commotion, and the wind came down upon us with a power that threatened to shiver the steamer into a thousand atoms. The heavens gathered blackness, and the whole dark firmament presented a surface every now and then lit up with a sheet of the most vivid fire. The waters ran very high, the wind roared, and the thunder was awful. The captain very prudently sought the shelter of the sh.o.r.e, and our boat was soon fastened by a strong cable to a tree. Then the rain fell in torrents, as though the waters of the river itself were scooped up and poured upon us. We learned that a few days before, not far from where we were, a steamboat had been capsized by a similar flaw of wind. We were soon again on our way, moving beneath a bright and benignant sky, and fanned by a gentle and refreshing breeze. How much our course down this river resembles human life! I cannot stay to make the application, but will only add that they only are wise who seek the shelter of G.o.d's presence as a hidingplace till the storm be overpast.

We stopped towards evening to take in wood on the Kentucky sh.o.r.e. We there saw for the first time the native cane-brake. A wood-cutter's hut was near.

A little ragged boy came out followed by two large dogs, and a little pet fawn. The dogs seemed to be fond of this little innocent thing, which had been taken only two or three weeks before. It seemed as it skipped along, and played around the footsteps of the child, very affectionate and confiding. Oh! that hardened sinners were transformed into a nature as mild, and gentle, and sweet as this little fawn! The power of Christ through the gospel can alone accomplish this.

Just at nightfall we pa.s.sed the steamer Louisiana in distress. She had run upon a reef of rocks, and was in a sinking state. I cannot but here record the mercy of G.o.d which has followed us thus far in our journeyings.

Steamboats have been blown up, and fired, and sunk, all around us since we started, and yet the Lord in boundless mercy has preserved us.

_Thursday, June 29th._

When I awoke this morning, I found the boat was taking in wood at Paducah, just at the mouth of the Tennessee, having pa.s.sed the c.u.mberland river in the night. We were now approaching a scene of interest that we had been long antic.i.p.ating--the meeting of the waters of the Ohio and "the father of rivers." The morning was rainy and unpleasant, still we were constantly on the alert, eagerly intent upon seeing every object of interest around us.

While thus looking abroad, an affecting scene presented itself to us. The Ohio here, having received its last large tributaries, had become very deep and broad. Its banks were covered with tangled underwood, and dense forest-trees--presenting a scene of unbroken wildness. Now and then a woodman's hut was visible on the sh.o.r.e, and a little boat fastened to the bank. A deer, bounding with the fleetness of the wind to escape his destroyers, had reached the river's edge. What could be more natural than that, as his pursuers pressed on, he should plunge into the midst of the flowing stream! How cool and grateful must have been its waters to him thus panting and faint! But will he find safety here! No. His pursuers are again upon him. Having seized two little skiffs they eagerly press on to reach him. We saw them gliding through the waters towards him. Again he puts forth all his energies, and dashes through the waves like an arrow through the air. The effort he is making is for his life. But the strong arms that ply the oars, send forward the little barques which contain his pursuers with a velocity that seems to cut off the hope of escape. Now they are upon him! one boat is in advance of him, and the other rushing towards him. His destiny seemed sealed! But no--he is gone! He has darted to the depths beneath, and risen far beyond the furthermost boat! He is exerting every nerve to reach the sh.o.r.e! A few moments more, and his point will be gained--he will be bounding through the Kentucky woods! No. Hope again dies! His pursuers are again upon him--the boat is again between him and the sh.o.r.e. His strength is exhausted. The uplifted oar with dreadful stroke has fallen upon his head. The hands of his fell pursuers have grasped his horns, he is dragged up into the boat and the huntsman's knife has made a deep incision in his throat. He pants, and struggles, and expires!

I said to myself--the sinner is pursued by sin, and satan, and pa.s.sion, like that chased deer. There is no escape for him but in Christ. Oh what a happy, blessed hour of deliverance is that when the arm of mercy is reached forth to pluck him from the hands of his destroyers!

It was about nine o'clock this morning, when we first come in sight of the Mississippi. The waters of the Ohio had seemed muddy to us, but now they appeared clear and limpid compared with the muddy and discoloured stream which we were about to enter. There it was before us in all its magnificence, "the mighty father of rivers!" When our steamer touched its waves, it was with us a moment of deep and intense interest. We now turned up to breast its impetuous current which swept proudly along by us in foaming eddies. Every part of the river seemed turbid and thick with mud, and we could not understand how these waters could hold so much soil in solution. I shall never forget my sensations, when, shortly after we reached the Mississippi, I saw one of the boatmen draw up a pail full of this muddy water, and putting his lips to the vessel drink it off with apparent relish. I afterwards found it was the only water drank on board the steamboats, and in the towns situated on this river. I also found that after it was filtered, it was the most delightful water that I ever drank.

One cause of its turbid appearance is the large portions of magnesia it holds in solution. This water derives its peculiar characteristics from the Missouri. Above that stream the waters of the Mississippi are clear and limpid.

I have already spoken of the annoyance to which we were constantly subjected from the profanity of those we encountered. And I may now add that, gambling is another of the vices that are rife here. On our way from Louisville to St. Louis there has been one incessant scene of gambling night and day. We have evidently had three professed gamblers on board. I am told that there are men who do nothing else but pa.s.s up and down these waters, to rob in this way every unsuspecting individual, they can induce to play with them, of his money. We saw one victim fall into the clutches of these blacklegs. He was a young merchant, I believe, from Chilicothe, Ohio. He was first induced to play a simple game of cards. A slight sum was then staked to give interest to the game. He was allowed for awhile to be successful and to win of his antagonist. He played on till he became perfectly infatuated. He would hardly stop long enough to take his meals.

Being fairly within their toils, large sums began to be staked, and this young man did not see the vortex into which he was being borne until he had lost six hundred dollars. In this deep gambling, physicians and judges who were present partic.i.p.ated. What will our country come to, with such examples before the people! After being shut up for two or three days with such company, I thought how horrible it must be to be shut up in perdition with such characters forever! Surely the very presence of such men, with their depraved pa.s.sions in full play, would of itself const.i.tute a perfect h.e.l.l! Another crying sin, which abounds on board the western steamboats, and is fearfully prevalent through every portion of this western region, is _the free and unrestrained use of ardent spirits as a drink_; usually on board these western steamboats whiskey is used just as freely as water. All drink. The pilot--the engineer--the fireman--all drink. The whiskey bottle is pa.s.sed around several times a day, and then the dinner table is loaded with decanters. I am satisfied that more than two-thirds of the disasters that occur on board these steamboats, are attributable to this free use of ardent spirits.

I know it will be natural to ask, can nothing be done to arrest the progress of these mighty evils? A gentleman at St. Louis, Captain S----, has embarked in a n.o.ble effort to do this. Last summer he ran a boat from Galena to St. Louis, with these avowed principles--that the Sabbath should be sanctified--that wherever the Lord's day found them, there they would tie up their boat and remain till Monday--that no ardent spirits should be brought on board the boat--that no profane swearing should be allowed, and no card-playing permitted. He remarked to me that the exclusion of ardent spirits removed the whole difficulty--that where there was no intoxicating drink, there was very little disposition to indulge in profanity or gambling. This gentleman has now raised forty thousand dollars, and hopes to bring it up to one hundred thousand in order to establish a line of boats on the same principle from Pittsburg to New Orleans. I do believe that this is one of the most important enterprises of the present day, and that the religious interests of the west are vitally connected with it.

Captain S---- remarked to me, that no cla.s.s of men, after the clergy, could exert such a prodigious influence for good or for evil, in the western valley, as the captains of steamboats. If they were only pious men, there is no telling how much they might do, every trip they made, to promote the cause of the Redeemer.

If something be not speedily done at the west to prevent the profanation of the Lord's day, there will soon be no Sabbath. At the princ.i.p.al landing places along the rivers, business appears to go forward on the Sabbath just as upon any other day. Professors of religion are deeply involved in this sin. Goods are carried to and from their ware-houses at noon-day, and their clerks are busy in the counting-room while they are at church. Facts of this kind I do not guess at, but _know_. Will not G.o.d visit for such things? Oh what will become of our land when G.o.d riseth up to judge the earth?

The whole character of the scenery, since we entered the Mississippi has become changed; the banks of this great stream are low and marshy. They are generally covered with dense forests and tangled underwood, and present the appearance of nature in its untrodden wildness.

_Friday, June 30th._

We to-day made a short stop at a place which bears the name of _Western Philadelphia_. There were some half dozen buildings, and two stores. It is only about nine months since the settlement commenced. Chestnut and Market streets were pointed out to us. Their course was through a flourishing cornfield, the stalks of which were so luxuriant and lofty, that we in vain essayed to reach their tops with our hands.

There are more signs of cultivation visible, as we pa.s.sed along, on the Missouri than on the Illinois side. The banks as we proceed up the stream, occasionally rise into high bluffs--especially in Illinois--towering aloft, not unlike the palisades on the Hudson. Frequently one rock is piled upon another to such an elevation, that the summit of the bluff juts over the river, as though it were ready to tumble down upon the heads of those who were pa.s.sing along on the quiet stream beneath. This is particularly the case as we enter the lead country which commences some time before we reach St. Louis. These lofty towering bluffs that rise up so perpendicularly, projecting over the river, afford every convenience for forming natural shot towers. We saw several of these lofty cliffs that were thus used. A little box was erected upon the summit of the rock, where the molten lead was poured down through the mould, into a little tub on the sh.o.r.e beneath to receive the shot as they fell.

As we slowly wended our way up this mighty stream we found the sh.o.r.es adorned with flowers, and covered with cane-brake and thick underwood. We also saw the trees loaded with grape-vines--and many of them completely matted over with ivy, woodbine, and misletoe. The luxuriance of vegetation seemed so great, as not only to cover the earth, but to lift itself up suspended in the air.

We pa.s.sed to-day St. Genevieve, a French village standing on a beautiful hill-side. The loveliest prospect stretched out before the town. We could from this point see the broad Mississippi in its magnificent course piercing the boundless forests of eternal verdure, and spreading out its watery surface upon which a hundred green islets seemed to float. The town itself, like all the French villages that we have seen on this river, appeared old and dilapidated, and quite dest.i.tute of every thing like improvement, or enterprise. I could not but contrast these French villages, in the midst of this rich luxuriant land, with their little Roman Catholic chapels, their low narrow houses, and abundant marks of poverty, with the neat, tidy, thriving villages of New England, which, although they rear their heads from a hard rocky soil, where industry has to be taxed to the utmost to obtain the means of subsistence, present--in their beautiful church edifices--their elegant public buildings, and well constructed private residences--marks of thrift, industry, and comfort, which cannot fail to gladden the heart of the traveller who pa.s.ses through them. Such is the difference in their influences between Protestantism and Romanism.

Twelve miles before we reached St. Louis we pa.s.sed Jefferson barracks, a military station on the Missouri sh.o.r.e, located on a beautiful swell of land.

Carondolet is another French village on the banks of the Mississippi, around which every thing appears ruinous and poverty stricken.

At length St. Louis rose to view, and we hailed the sight with no ordinary sensations, not only as it was to be our resting place for awhile, but as a point of exceeding interest in this vast western world.

CHAPTER VIII.

THE MISSISSIPPI AND SOME OF ITS TRIBUTARIES.

St. Louis--Roman cathedral--Desecration of the Sabbath--Golden sunsets--Sail up the Mississippi--The meeting of the waters of the Missouri and the Mississippi--Alton--The burning prairie.

_St. Louis, Tuesday Evening, July 4th._

This, unquestionably is destined in time to become THE GREAT CITY OF THE WEST. Its location is pleasant, and from the manner in which the upper part of the city is now building, I should think it would ultimately compete in regularity and beauty with almost any city in the Union. Its most prominent public buildings at present are the theatre and the Roman cathedral. One of the priests politely showed us through the latter building. The interior would be very grand and imposing, were it not for the gaudy paintings, intended as scriptural ill.u.s.trations, suspended around the audience room.

However much these may catch the attention and awaken the admiration of the _ign.o.bile vulgus_, they cannot fail to excite any thing but complacency in minds accustomed to the more chaste productions of the pencil. In entering the church, we pa.s.sed through the bas.e.m.e.nt, where are the confessional boxes and a small altar, on which wax candles were burning. Here we saw one of the sisters of charity, sitting in black vestments, in a solitary dusky nook, as though absorbed in holy meditation. In the church we found another priest, engaged, as far as we could understand, in preparing a cla.s.s of German boys for confirmation.

I learned from an intelligent source that Romanism is making little or no progress among Protestants at St. Louis. They have found it necessary to cut off, or conceal many of its offensive excrescences, so that a friend remarked to me, that he thought that a reformation in spite of themselves, silent and gradual, was going on in the Roman Catholic Church. The fact is, that the great difficulty at St. Louis is, that the ma.s.s of the people "care for none of these things." They are equally indifferent to every form of religion. Of course iniquity abounds, and the inst.i.tutions of G.o.d are trampled in the dust. The following fact will ill.u.s.trate this point. As I went to church on Sunday morning, to my utter astonishment, in pa.s.sing by the new theatre, I saw some twenty or thirty men at work on it--masons, house-carpenters, and painters. G.o.d's law, _Remember the Sabbath, to keep it holy_, was to be of no account, because the people of St. Louis were anxious to have their new theatre opened on the evening of the Fourth of July! Each one of the usual denominations has a church here. From all I could learn, however, I fear religion is at a very low ebb in St. Louis.

There are numberless discouragements to be encountered every where in the West, calculated to weaken the hands and depress the spirits of the ministers of religion. No one can understand the number or nature of these discouragements, without being actually on the ground. A successful missionary at the West must have great faith and patience, and be unwearied in his labours. To animate his clergy, and cheer them on in their toil, there could not be a better man than Bishop Kemper. He seems to throw sunshine around him wherever he goes.

One thing struck me as remarkable at the West, and particularly at St.

Louis. I refer to the appearance of the heavens at sunset. Nothing can exceed the richness and splendour of a western sunset. I have heard much of an Italian sky, but my imagination never conceived such pictures of beauty and indescribable glory, as are painted on the sky here at the decline of day. The whole hemisphere seems flooded with unearthly radience. The clouds piled up the western sky, appear more brilliant and gorgeous than any or all the colours of earth can make them. And as you look at them, you see, through the clouds, apertures, which seem like golden vistas, through which you look almost into the heaven of heavens.

Our Fourth of July has been spent quietly here. There has not been half the noise and disturbance I had antic.i.p.ated.

_Wednesday Evening, July 5th._